Narrative of the Earl of Elgin's Mission to China and Japan

CHAPTER 1.

CHAPTER L

1W OrigiB oT ite War.— Tbe ** Arrow CMe.*'^PbUe3r of Sir Jolm Bowriog.— Ho*. tOiMi MCaaiOD.— Risfat of Entry into the Citjr.^BomlMurdnnnt of Teh'k Taman. —TV B— ilta fiMnlf to Americwi FUg.^DoitnictioQ of the Factories.^Abui-ilimini of tbe Fmetary Position.— PoiitioQ of Affiun in Fobnuuj, 1857.— Elfect <f tfce hnwakag Operariona.

The earlier incidents of the political rapture with the Chinese Conuninoaer Yeh, which occurred at Canton during the autumn of 185(, and which led to the appointment of a special mission to China for the purpose of settling existing differences, and, if pos-sible, of placing our relations with that empire upon a new and enlaiged basis, were too thoroughly canvassed at Uie time to ren-der it neoeasBiy to renew here any discussion on their merits, or recall at length their details. As the " Arrow case*' derived its interest, then, from the debates to which it gave rise, and its ef-fects on parties at home, rather than fiom any intrinsic value of its own, ao does it now mainly owe its importance to the accident-al drcumstanoe that it was the remote and insignificant^cause which led to a total revolution in the foreign policy of the Celes-tial Empire, and to the demolition of most of those barriers which, vhile they were designed to restrict all intercourse from without, furnished the nations of the West with fruitful sources of quarrel aad perpetual grievances.

B

18 THE ORIGIN OF THE WAB.— THE '*ABBOW CASE.**

Bat thoQgli, in this particular instance, the " alleged insult^' it-self claims but a brief notice, and that merely as a matter of his-tory, the steps taken by our diplomatic and naval authorities on the spot to redress it are worthy of a fuller consideration, because there can be little doubt that it was in consequence of the re-sults which these entailed, coupled with other causes which will be hereafter mentioned, that Lord Elgin was compelled to adopt a line of policy not altogether in accordance with his original in-structions, as defined in the House of Commons by Lord Palmer-ston during the session of 1857. That this may be the more clearly apprehended, and a correct estimate formed of the embar-rassing nature of the difficulties with which the high commission-er found himself surrounded at the outset, it will be necessary to narrate briefly the course of eyents which occurred in the Canton Biver previous to his arrival. Their consideration will enable us at once to perceive how humiliating was the attitude we were oc-cupying in the eyes of the Chinese, and more especially of the Cantonese — ^how grave the injury which our national prestige was suffering in consequence, and how inconvenient were the oompli-cations arising out of the anomalous position in which Great Brit-ain found herself placed with reference to other nations.

It will be remembered that on the 8th of October, 1856, a partj of Chinese executives, in charge of an officer, boarded the lorchs Arrow, a vessel registered under an ordinance passed at Hong Kong eighteen months before, tore down the flag, and carried away the Chinese crew, refusing to listen either to the remon strances of the master or of the consul, and insisting that the ves sel was not British, but Chinese. Her papers were at the time ii the consulate, but her roister had expired more than a montl before. Still Mr. Parkes maintained that she was entitled to pro tection under clause 10 of the ordinance, she not having been ii the waters of the colony since the date of the expiry of the regis ter. Mr. Parkes at once wrote to the imperial commissioner Yeh complaining of th^ outrage, and offering to investigate any charg< that might be brought against the persons seized. He also ac quainted Sir J. Bowring and Commodore Elliot, the senior nava officer at hand, with the particulars of the circumstance. In th< correspondence that ensued, Yeh refused to admit to Mr. Parke that the lorcha was British, and maintained that some of the crev were pirates. He offered to return nine men. Mr. Parkes, how

POUCT OF SIB JOHN BOWBIK& 19

ever, wis mstracted to demand an apology in writing from Yeh — the return of the Chinese arrested to their ship— and their deliv-ery to the anthoritieay if deliyered, by and through the oonsuL Yefa persisted, in his reply, that the lorcha was not foreign prop-erty, had no flag flying, promised that Chinese officers should not mn fi>reign lorchas, and ui*ged that foreigners should not sell registciB to Chinese subjects building vessels. Meantime Sir John Bowring had threatened the commissioner with an application to the naval authoritiee ; and a junk, supposed to be an imperial junk, bat afterward found to be a merchant vessel, was seized by way of reprisal, and released. On the 15th of October Mr. Parkes informed Yeh of this seizure, also that a naval force was at the Barrier FortiL On the 21st inst, Mr. Parkes, under instructions, advised Yeh that, unless the requisition made was complied with within twenty-four hours, ulterior measures would be adopted.

In oonsequance of this threat, an hour before the expiry of the term, the twelve men were sent to the consulate, but without an ofllcer of rank, or any letter of i^logy. Mr. Parkes wrote again to Yeh. Nothing r^ulting, he circulated among the foreign com-munity the letter containing the ultimatum of the 21st The same day Yeh had written, repeating his former arguments, and remon-strating against the seizure of the merchant junk. On the 22d Mr. Flukes replied to this as before, and in the evening warned the eommunity by drcular that the question was now in the hands of her majesty's senior naval officer. Correspondence to the same cftct passed between Yeh and Sir John Bowring. It had in the mean time been decided by Sir John Bowring, in consultation with Admiral Seymour, that "the most judicious measure of compul-sion** to be adopted would be ''the seizure of the defenses of the city of Canton.** In pursuance of this policy, on the 2Sd of Oc-tober Admiral Sejrmour took possession of the four Barrier Forts, Blenheim Fort, and Macao Fort, without loss, and scarce a sem-biaDoe of resistance, and, through the consul, advised Yeh of his arrival and intention to continue hostile proceedings against the defenses, public buildings, and government vessels, until repara-tion ahould be made for the wrong done. " His excellency's re-ply«^ says the admiral, '' was very unsatisfactory.^ On the fol-lowing day the Bird^s Nest and Shameen forts were taken, with-out any attempt at opposition ; and preparations were made for tke defense of the fectories, which were garrisoned ; a body of

20 HOSTILITIES AT CANTON.

American officers, seamen, and marines provided for the interests of the American community.

On the 25 th the island and fort of Dutch Folly were taken, and occupied without opposition. This act completed the series of operations, upon the efficacy of which the civil and military au-thorities had, to all appearance, confidently relied ; but the result was as far from being attained as ever. The admiral writes: "14tA November, 1856. All defense of the city being now in our hands, I considered the high commissioner would see the neces-sity of submission ; and I directed Mr. Parkes to write and state that, when his excellency should be prepared to arrange the points in dispute in a satisfactory manner, I would desist from farther operations; but the reply did not answer my expectations." So far from any thing like submission, it appears that " an attack was made at 12.30 by a body of troops, supported by a much larger force, which occupied the streets in rear. Mr. Consul Parkes was on the spot at the time, and warned them to retire, but ineffectu-ally. The guard of royal marines, in charge of Captain Penrose, then drove them back, with a loss, as we understand, of fourteen killed and wounded." The next day Yeh closed the Chinese Custom-house.

Such were the steps taken, and violent measures resorted to, in the vain attempt to induce the imperial commissioner to make the amende hanorabk. His power to resist even this trifling demand was now proved beyond a doubt Our inability to enforce it had been no less unmistakably manifested ; nevertheless, another let-ter to Yeh was dispatched on the 27th by the admiral, who thus aUudes to it: "I concurred in opinion with Sir John Bowring that this was a fitting opportunity for requiring the fulfillment of long-evaded treaty obligations, and I therefore, in addition to the original demands, instructed Mr. Parkes to make the following communication." These additional demands involved the right for all foreign representatives of free access to the authorities and city of Canton. Hitherto the point at issue had been one simply of principle, and turned upon the right of the Chinese govern-ment to seize a lorcha under certain conditions. It is just possi-ble that even this stubborn functionary may have had his doubts on the subject, and been disposed to purchase peace and quietness at the price of so immaterial a concession. But now any moment-ary weakness, if it ever existed, was passed forever. A grave

BOMBABDMENT OF TEH*8 TAHUN. 21

question of policy had been raised — an old and mach*yexed one, in the sucoeaBful battling of which his piedecesBora had covered thCTnueJvcB with gloiy. Moreover, this sadden change of issue the whole suspicious nature of the Chinaman, and he draws infeienoe somewhat discreditable to us, but not to be wondered at, which he thus expresses in a proclamation issued to the Can-

"* Whereas the English barbarians have commenced disturb-on a fidse pretense, their real object being admission into Uie dtj, the governor general, referring to the unanimous ex-pression of objection to this measure on the part of the entire population of Canton in 1849, has flatly refused to concede this, and is determined not to grant their request, let them carry their feats and machinations to what length they wilL" Whereupon Veh intrenches himself behind a triple mail of mandarinio pride and obstinacy, and retreats into the innermost recesses of his of-ficial dignity, from which we dug him out some fourteen months after* Meantime he does not condescend to answer the last letter, so at 1 P.M. his residence is bombarded. ^ The first shot was fired from the 10-inch pivot gun of the Encounter, and, at inter-vals of from five to ten minutes, the fire was kept up from that gun till sunset The Barraoouta, at the same time, shelled the troops on the hills behind Gough's Fort, in the rear of the city, from a position she had taken up in rear of Sulphur Creek." Under these drcumstanoes, Yeh offered a reward of thirty dollars tor the head of every Englishman.

The afternoon of the following day, from noon to sunset, was occopied in firing at slow time upon the houses opposite Dutch FoUy, the inhabitants having been warned to evacuate them. The yamon of the imperial commissioner was distant about 160 raids from the river bank. By the afternoon of the 29th a breach had been effected to this spot, which was visited by the admiral with s force of marines and blue-jackets. The Chinese offered some resistanoe, killing three and wounding eleven of our men. For the three following days desultory firing was kept up on the town, mad much of the suburb was destroyed by fire, but not in-tentioDslly. On the 1st of November the admiral again addresses Teh, wbo answers, defending himself^ without receding. He was BcvvTtbelesB responded to by the admiral, and rejoined, in a letter, "* recapitolating his former correspondence.*'

22 ISSUUr TO AMEREGAN FLAG.

The admiral accordingly recommences operations, polls down some Chinese houses to secure the fEictory position, and bombards the public buildings steadily, but slowly, for several days consec-utively, during which French Folly is taken, and twenty-three war-junks are destroyed by the Barracouta, with a loss of one killed and four wounded. Another communication is also made to the commissioner, who seems to gain confidence from the fre-quency of these missives, for he answers curtly, and enters upon a vigorous course of retaliatory measures. Having neither armies or fleets to cope with ours, he makes war upon us in a desultoiy, irrecrular way, eminently harassing. Our ships in the river nar-roTeseape'destruclioi fix>m J-raffa: nighlattocka a« Ba«de upon them; passenger steamers are fired upon, and foreign ves-sels, indiscriminately. An incidental result is an insult to the American flag, which is fired on fix>m the Barrier Forts, which had been re-armed. As a measure of retaliation, these are taken and destroyed by Commodore Armstrong, of the United States Navy. Here the matter ends. Dr. Parker thinks the insult of-fered to the flag has been sufficiently avenged, and shortly after-ward resumes correspondence with Yeh. The episode is interest-ing, as furnishing a contrast between our policy and that of the United States, under son^what similar circumstances.

Meantime we demolish some of the Bogue Forte, and Howqua and other Canton notables address, and are answered by. Sir John Bowring and Admiral Se3m[iour. On the 17th Sir John Bowring arrives at Canton, and puts himself into communication with the imperial commissioner on the 18th. The admiral (24th of No-vember, 186Q) states that he ^^ reopened fire on the government buildings in the Tartar City fix>m the guns in the Dutch Folly, but ceased at noon, to allow time for a reply to a note sent in by Sir John Bowring, proposing an interview with the high commis-sioner in the city ; and his excellency added that, if it was grant-ed, he was prepared to request me to cease hostilities. The reply was received the next day, declining the interview." The re-ward for barbarian heads was now raised fix>m thirty to one hund-red taels. On the 22d the French flag was struck at Canton.

On the 4th of December, French Folly, having been reoccupied and strengthened by the Chinese, was retaken, with a loss of two killed and several wounded. On the following day a seaman and marine are cut off. A few shells are still occasionally thrown

BKTBEAT nOM THE FACTOBT POOTION. 28

into the city, and, on the 14th, the admiral states that he "feels a oonfident hc^ that the measures which have been taken will prove Buceeasful." The next day Chinese incendiaries bom down the whole of the foreign ketones. The admiral writes (29th of Deoembeff 1866) : '^ The great importance of holding our position at Oanton being evident, and the church and barracks having been preserved, I determined to intrench a portion of the fikctoiy gardens^" On the 17th the admiral commences to intrench him-self accordingly, and garrisons the fortified position with a force of three handled men.

Enooanged by this success, Yeh carries on the war, in his own peculiar SMihion, with greater vigor than ever. On the 2Sd Mr. Cowper is kidnapped firom Whampoa. On the 80th the Thistle poetal steamer is seized by the Chinese on board ; eleven persons mardend,and their heads carried o£ The Chinese gentry of the district opposite Hong Kong interdict supplies being furnished lo the colony. The magistrate of another district orders the serv-ants to withdraw from foreign employ. Placards are iasued in-terdicting trsde, and promising rewanb for heads. On the 4th of January the Chinese attack the ships about Macao Fort in fince, and ank junks in one of the neighboring passages; also neariy soooeed in blowing up one of our ships with explosive marhinfa. On the 12th, our position in the fiictoiy gardens hav-ing been threatened, we bum the suburbs right and left of the &ctory site. During this operation, a party of the 69th, approach-ing the dty-wall, is repulsed with loss. The admiral (14th of January, 1857) at once decides upon retreating from his position in the fiMtory gardens and Dutch Folly, and, fidling back upon BirdVnest Fort and Macao Fort, applies to his excellency the Qov-emor General of India for the assistance of 5000 troops. He sub-sequently finds himself compelled to aband<m Bird's-nest Fort (SOth of January, 1857), which he had intended to hold as his jMlvanoed post^ Mid, withdrawing the garrison he had placed there, retains only Macao Fort It was even at one time in con-templation to evacuate the river entirely, and this was a course strongly urged upon the admiral by some of his advisers. For-tunately, however, bolder counsels prevailed ; and, although the Chinese kept up a series of pertinacious and harassing attacks apon our garrison in Macao Fort, commanded then by the gallant but lamented 04>tain Bate, we suffered no fiulher reverses at

24 POSITION OF AFFAIBS IN FEBBUABT, 1857.

their hands. Meantime an attempt had just been made to poison the whole foreign community of Hong Kong.

From this condensed account, some idea may be formed of the stage which war and diplomacy had reached in the south of China at the beginning of February, 1867. But little change had taken place in either up to the time of our arrival there, about four months afterward. The diplomacy remained in abeyance; the war was apparently being kept up upon very much the same principles on which it had been begun. The Chinese continued to kidnap, assassinate, seize steamers, and annoy us in sundry cun-ningly-devised methods. We continued to hunt them down in creeks, bum villages Inhere outrages had been committed, and otherwise pay them out to the best of our ability — not, it must be confessed, in a manner calculated to increase their terror for our arms, or their respect for our civilization. With the exception of the affiur in the Fatshan Creek, no fighting of any consequence occurred.

It is not difficult to perceive how, under these circumstances, every month that passed by inspired Yeh with firesh confidence in his own resources, and, inasmuch as we never made a move in advance, with increased contempt for ours. Never before since the abolition of the old monopoly had Englishmen made so poor a figure in the eyes of the Chinese populace. If one went into a curiosity shop at Hong Kong, he was the object of the quiet irony of the sleek vendor of carved ivory behind the counter, who in-formed him that his choice collection was at Canton, and asked, "Why you no can come my shop Canton? alio same fore tim: my gotchie too muchee olo handser culio that side." The very urchins in the street considered a Briton a fit subject for " chaf^" while their respectable parents took a mefrcenary view of his head. Hong Kong was neither a safe nor agreeable abode in those days.

It was too late then to consider whether the Arrow had in the first instance been British or Chinese, or whether the claim for redress made eight months previously was just or unjust; nor did it seem to avail now to discuss the wisdom of the policy which had superadded a second and infinitely more obnoxious demand, just at the period when it seemed most hopeless that we should obtain even the first It was small consolation to be told that we ought never to have abandoned the factory position, and that a little sharp cannonading, instead of a shot every ten min-

EFFECT OF THE FOBEGOINQ OPERATIONS. 25

ntes, would have soon brought Yeh to his senses. These were profinsionAl questions on which it would have been presumptuous to of&r an opinion ; but there was one conyiction arising out of it all which irresistibly impressed itself upon the mind of every new-cooier, and which was, that a continuance of this state of matters would not only injure our colony, impair our prestige, cmbarruB us in our relations with neutral powers, and imperil our oommeroe at all the other ports of the empire, but enhance materially the difficulties in the way of any negotiations which might be attempted directly with the court of Pekin. It could hardly be expected or hoped that, while Yeh was waging a sue-ceasfol war with us in the Canton River, we could be treating upon iavorable terms in the Peiho.

It so hsppened that other causes combined to give increased weight to these considerations : these will come to be noticed in their turn. Meantime I have thought it better, at the outset, to cast this brief retrospective glance over the events of the half year preceding our arrival in China, partly in the hope that it may enable the reader to form some idea of the actual posture of af-fiuis at that juncture, and partly because it may be presumed that the insight which a review of theae proceedings afforded, both as to the character of the people with whom he was about to deal, and the nature of the difficulties against which he would have to contend, was not lost upon Lord Elgin.

2« DEPABTCBB OF THE MISSION.

CHAPTER 2.

CHAPTER n.

Appointment and Departure of special Miflrion. — Outbreak of tbe Mutiny in India. —Arrival a^ Singapore.— Its Chinese Population.— Caoses of their Discontent.—-Their Valae aa Colonists. — ^Trip to the main Land. — ^Residence of the TomAngong. — Wild Sports of the M^laj Peninsnla. — Gambler Plantations. — ^Luxuriant For-rest.— ^The Village of Tnbrao. —-Depredations of Tigers. — Great Increase of Culti-vation.—Start on a Tiger-hnnt— Unsacoessftil Besnlt. — ^Arrival at Johore. — ^Ma-lay Honses of Johore. — ^Historical Associations of Johore. — ^A plctnnsqne Bepast. — Return to Singapore. — Its rapid Progress. — ^Its Future.

In consequence of the unsatisfactory progress of affairs in the south of China, described in the last chapter, that country was fa-vored with a larger share of public interest in England during the spring of 1867 than had been accorded to it at any period for the last fifteen years. An expeditionary force of 5000 men, with a staff equipment calculated for a much larger army, and in every respect thoroughly complete, was on its way to the probable the-atre of war. Glenerals and officers of high rank were leaving town by each successive mail. Not only had England determ-ined to send out a special high commissioner, accredited as embas-sador to the court of Pekin, but France, Russia, and America had each declared their intention of improving the occasion, and dis-patching plenipotentiaries extraordinary to China. Thus every thing conspired to induce the belief that the attention of the world was about to be concentrated on the Celestial Empire ; and it was not to be wondered at that, though not present in London draw-ing-rooms, Yeh did in &ct monopolize the honors of the earlier part of the season, or that the prospect of accompanying a special mission to the scene of his exploits, and, possibly, to the throne of his imperial master, possessed attractions of a novel and strik-ing character.

More fortunate than former embassies, we were saved the long sea-voyage, which must have had a tendency to damp the ardor of exploration ; and being consigned instead to the mercies of the Peninsular and Oriental Company, found ourselves, on the 9th of May, 1867, rushing across the desert in the first train which had ever carried passengers to the central station, enveloped in clouds

OUTBBKAK OF THE IfUTINT IN INDIA. - 27

of dii8l| $ad inddgiiig in most sangoine anticipations of the fu-

How little could we imagine that a stonn was at this moment banting over the plains of Upper India which should rivet upon itself the coDoentrated and anxious gaze of the world, and which, in its swift and relentless course, seemed pregnant with oonse-qneoces so disastrous and appalling, that all minor cares of state poliqr faded into insignificance, and became utterly absorbed in its one engrossing interest, just as passing squalls are overwhelm* ed and smothered in the impetuous fury of a tjrphoon.

It was not not until we reached Galle that we received from Gcoeral Ashbumham, who had just arrived from Bombay, and was on his way to the commander-in-chief in China, the first intel* ligeooe of the serious aspect which matters had assumed in the northwest provinces of India, and of the spread of disaffection among the sepoy troops. Although the particulars of the diead* ful tngedy which had taken place at Dedhi and Meerut had not yet reached us, we heard enough to lead us to anticipate the probability of these occurrences affecting, in an important dqpree, the prospects of the mission to China.

Geneiml Ashbumham and his staff accompanied us to Singa* pore, whence they proceeded to China, while Lord Elgin disem-harked here, and took up his residence with the governor, to await the Shannon, the frigate placed by the government at Lord Elgin's diqxisal, and the arrival of which was hourly expected. The importance of rendering the approach of an envoy invested with sudi extensive powers as imposing as possible in the eyes of a nation notorious for attaching the highest significance to ex* lemal pomp and ceremony, seemed more than sufficient to justify

• Tht fpeciaJ nWoii was compo&td as foUowa : His ExceDeiicy the Earl of Elgin SMJ KitaHiac, K.T., High ComwIsrioiifT ; the Hon. F. W. A. Brace, Seeretaiy to ' iha Mkakm ; Mean Donald Cameron, Gwgb Fhs-Rojr, H. B. Loch, and & Mocri-mm, AttncMa ; Mr. Lanenee Oiiphant, Prirale Secrataiy. On the afThral of the misrion in China, Mr. T. F. Wade was attached as Chinese ; and in Angnst, Dr. M. K. Saonden, RN., was attached as medical at-In Mmch, IS58, Mr. H. N. Lay accompanied the mianon to Tientsin as wcfBlaiy and imeiptetei'. In Jaly Mr. Bmea proceeded to En* in ckacfs of the treaty of Tientsin, and the Hon. N. Jocelyn anired to rsplaco Mr. raHMiim, who was promoted to a post in Enrope. Mr. Morrison also retomed IP England, nnd Mr. Oliphant snoceeded Mr. Brace as acting secretary to the mi»-In September Mr. Loch went home on sick oerCificnte, having also charge of

28 8IN6Apore.-<:;hinese population.

t^e delay of three weeks which was thus unavoidably incurred. Nor, under the circumstances, was the time misspent. A con-firmation of the news we heard at Galle, together with the repre-sentations of Lord Canning, induced Lord Elgin to take upon himself the serious responsibility of diverting from their destma-tion the first installment of the troops which soon after arrived at Singapore from the Mauritius on their way to China.

Other circumstances were not wanting to render our stay at Singapore full of interest at this juncture, and these were closely connected with the objects of the mission. A few weeks had scarcely elapsed since occurrences had taken place among the Chinese population at Penang, Sarawak, and Singapore, which, firom their simultaneity with one another, and with the treacher-ous attempt upon the lives of the British residents at Hong Kong, induced the suspicion of an extended concerted action — a suspi-cion which seemed to have amounted to certainty in the minds of the great majority of the English in these settlements, in whom a knowledge of the power and extent of the organization of the Chinese secret societies excited a not unnatural alarm, and whose -minds were so deeply impressed, by old association and prejudice, with a fear of the cruelty and treachery of the Chinese, that they were apt to overlook other qualities in the character of that race which, to an impartial observer, seemed effectually to neutralize these attributes.

Li each of the instances above alluded to local causes of irrita-tion existed, apparently sufficient to ^u^count for the disturbances which ensued, without connecting them with the disputes at Can-ton. In Borneo, the immediate origin of the outbreak was a dif-ference of opinion in a question of opium smuggling between Sir James Brooke and the Chinese, though for some time past these people had manifested an independent spirit, and a disposition to resist the laws which the rajah — ^who had treated them perhaps with too much kindness and indulgence — saw fit to impose. That their animosity was confined to himself and his executive only, and involved no general principle of hostility to the British, was proved by the &ct that they requested the bishop to assume the reins of government Li the Straits settlement, the promulgation of some police regulations interfering with certain of their relig-ious ceremonies and festivals, and the manner in which these were put into execution, roused their indignation, though it is question-

CAUSES OF THEIB DISCONTENT.— VALUE AS COLONISTS. 29

aUe whether, had the object of these ever been explained to them, they woald not have recognized their expediency.

At present there is a population of 70,000 Chinamen in Singa-pore, and not a single European who understands their language. Tl>e cooaequenoe is, that, in the absence of any competent inter-preter, they are generally ignorant of the designs of government, and, regarding themselves still as Chinese subjects, are apt to place ihemselTes in an antagonistic attitude whenever laws are passed afleeting their peculiar customs. No effort is made to overcome a certain exclusiyeneas arising hence ; and this is fostered by the secret societies, which exercise an important moral influence upon tke minds of all, but more particularly the ignorant portion of the population. Were Chinese themselves put into positions of antbority under goyemment, and allowed to share to some extent in the duaes and responsibilities of British citizens, which, intel-lectually speaking, they are quite competent to undertake, the harrier which now exists between the two races would be partially removed, and the mutual distrost and suspicion engendered by our present system would in all probability quickly disappear. Nor is this mere speculation. We have fortunately in their own empire a perpetual proof before our eyes of that reverence for au-thority tchen judkumaly enforced which is one of their chief charac-leristics, and which has for so many centuries been the preserva-tioD of its union and one great source of its prosperity.

That the most active, industrious, and enterprising race in the Eastern world should be regarded as a source of weakness rather than of strength to a community, implies, primd/aeiej a certain de* gree of mismanagement. The Chinese who have been attracted to Singapore by its freedom from commercial restrictions, and ad-vantages of position, have contributed to make it what it is, the most prosperous settlement in the East ; and when we consider thetr extraordinary acquisitiveness and love of gain, we can hard-ly suppose that their sympathies with their brethren in China would be sufficienUy powerful to induce them wantonly to inter-rupt a commerce from which they derive enormous profits, and destroy a mercantOe emporium which may be said to be in a great degree their own handiwork, and in which they possess a larger stake than any other class of its community.

To the stnmger first arriving in Singapore nothing can be more striking than the busy aspect which the place presents. Every

go TRIP TO THB MAIN LAND.

street swarms with long tails and loose trowseis ; throughout whole sections of the town are red lintels of the door-posts cover-ed with &ntaJ3tic characters, which betoken a Chinese owner. At early dawn the incessant hammering, stitching, and ooblering commences, which lasta nntil nearly midnight ; when huge paper lanterns, covered with strange devices, throw a subdued light over rows of half-naked yellow figures, all eagerly engaged in the le-gitimate process of acquiring dollars by the sweat of their biow. It is impossible to overestimate the value of such a race, or to rate too highly the importance of placing them in such relations with the governing powers, by the cultivation of a more &miliar intercourse, and a certain deference to their habits and prejudices, as should render them contented and trustworthy, as well as prof-itable members of society.

I was fortunate enough to have a farther opportunity of ob-serving the energy and enterprise of these people in a short trip which I made to the main land, in company with Mr. Cameron and Captain Scott, at the invitation of the son of the Tum£ngong of Johore, who is now the ruler of that Malay state. The latter is the son of the man who claimed the independent rule of the territory in which, at the time of our purchase of Singapore, the island was situated. This claim was disputed by the then Sultan of Johore. The Tumfingong, however, was supported by the British government, which entered into a treaty with him and the Sultan of Johore, by which it was agreed that the rights of the Tumfingong to the government should be recognized upon payment by him to the sultan of a certain annual pension. Both these dignitaries now reside in Singapore, and the Tumfingong or his son only occasionally visit their possessions on the main land. In the latter we found a most hospitable and amiable entertainer.

The protracted festivities consequent on a ball given in Lord Elgin's honor by the mercantile community rendered our depart-ure rather later on the morning of the ISth of June than we bad intended. At last, however, our host, to whom such gayety was unusual, appeared with a very roomy dog-cart, in which we packed away ourselves and our guns. Our roads intersected the island, here about fourteen miles across, first passing between well-trimmed hedges of graceful bamboo, through plantations of nut-megs, that clothe the numerous swelling knolls with which the country round the town is pleasantly diveraified, and the sum*

BE8IDKNCE OP THE TOMANOONG. 81

nulB of moBl of which are crowned with the handsome bungalows of the Enj^iah and German remdenta. About half way we paas Bddt-timah, the highest hill in the ialand, and which^ though only 600 leet above the aea-levelf eigoys a climale so superior to thi^ of the town of Singapore that it is talked of as a sanitarium for troops. The country generally is pretty well cultivated ; there are two or three sugar plantations, but the cultivation isliot suf-ficaeotly remunerative to induce extended speculation* Ghunbier (imoana ganMr) and pepper are more profitable; and we pass through occasional plantations of these on our way to Eranji, wkeaoe we were to cross the strait which separates the island fiom the main.

We had some difficulty in embarking on board the two sam-pans, or Maky boats, which we found waiting for us here, an* diored at a distance fiom the sloping muddy bank, and which SDOO tnnqxnted us to the opposite shore, whence we ascended to the comfortable bungalow of the Tumfingong. Situated upon the aommit of a cleared hill^ it commands a beautiful view of Uxe nar-row stratts and swelling shores, dothed in the richest verdure to the water's edge. At the foot of the hill the village of Sicudai, boilt and inhabited entirely by Chinese emigrants within the last isw yeani is perched on piles^ which extend some yards firom the shore.

We found a sumptuous repast prepared for us in European style in the bungalow, which answers the double purpose of a residence for the Tnmingong and a court-house for his subjects. At this point the ^'^^"^^m Biver enters the straits, and upon its banks a large number of pepper and gambier plantations have been lately opmed by the Chinese; it flows round the base of the mountain of Gunong Polai, which rises to a height of about 8000 feet above the sea levels and which the Tumfingong has consented to allow the gorenunent to make use of as a sanitarium — an offer of which we have not as yet been sensible enough to avail ourselves. Easy of aeoesa, either by land or water, from Singapore, it would be a Bost agreeable resort for the European part of the population during the hottest months; and a road from hence might be cut across the coantiy to Malacca, distant about seventy miles, which, while it would open up to Chinese enterprise an almost unknown district, would form a valuable means of communication between our own settlements.

82 GAMBIKB PLANTATIONS.

At present the principal attraction which Gnnung Pulai and its neighborhood offer are the wild animals which are found in those rarely-trodden forests. The sportsman who has exhausted every variety of game to be found in the jungles of India will derive a fresh excitement here in hunting the rhinoceros, or watching for the wary tapir; while on the muddy banks of sluggish rivers he may surprise the s£ladang or wild ox, a species peculiar to the forests of the Malay peninsula, and which has not yet been de-scribed by naturalists. From the accounts we received, the ele-phant-shooting seems to be inferior to that in Ceylon ; while, al-though the jungles literally swarm with tigers, a shickar, in the Indian sense of the term, is unknown. Our time, however, did not admit of any exploration in this direction; we therefore fol-lowed the advice of the host, who proposed visiting a large and prosperous village upon a neighboring river. Be-embarking in our sampans, we coasted for some miles along the northern shore of the straits. Generally they are not above a mile broad, and in some parts they narrow to little more than three fiirlongs, so that we could scarcely realize, as we glided between their wooded banks, that this was not a river, but the only passage which at one time was known into the China Seas, through which, for near two centuries, Portuguese and Dutch galleons had passed, freight-ed with the rich merchandise of the East

In the afternoon we entered the mouth of a considerable river, which we ascended for two hours, when we left the boats and started on foot for the village of Tubrao, while our sampans pro-ceeded to the same place, following the circuitous windings of the river. Our path led us through plantations of pepper and gam-bier, separated by "broad belts of heavy jungle, winding between tall columns of leaves, where the pepper vine, trained like the hop, completely concealed with its rich luxuriance the slender poles that supported it. Sometimes we forced our way througli thick bushes of the gambier, in the midst of which the thatched cottages of the cultivators are buried ; if we observe a thick smoke issue fix>m one of these, and enter to satisfy our curiosity, we find a group of Chinamen collected like witches round a caldron, in which are bubbling and boiling bushels of gambier leaves. As soon as the juice is inspissated and boiled to the consistence of a sirup, it is poured into moulds, and, when dry, cut into cakes, hav-ing very much the appearance of pieces of light-colored India-

LCXCBIANT FOBEST.— VILLAGE OS TUBRAO. 83

nibben The refuse leaves axe thrown into a lai^ canoe-shaped troogh, which projects over the caldron, and carried away to the pepper>plant«tion8 for numure. The leaves are pulled three or ibor times a year, and in fifteen years a plantation becomes ex-baittCed. Mr. Crawford says : " Oambier contains firom 40 to 60 per cent of pure tannin, and hence it has been of late years large-ly imported into Europe, to be used in the purposes of dyeing and tanning; the quantity imported yearly into England being not less than 6000 tons."

It is a relief to escape from the slanting rays of the sinking sun, and dive into the dark recesses of the forest, where tall limbless trees rise to a gigantic height, and weave their topmost branches into an impenetrable shade, while orchids five or six feet in diam-eler,cling like huge excrescences to the leafy roofl It is singular thal^ thoo^ upward of two hundred species of timber have been collected, most of them of great height and growth, not above half a doaen are really valuable ; among them are the ebony, sapan, and esg^wood, but, more valuable than all, the gutta-percha. The Tumfingong told us that he had prohibited the sale of this important article of commerce for the present, as the accessible parts of the forest had been cleared of nearly all the old trees. The price of the commodity has been recently very mudi in-creased in consequence. Among the palms we observed the ni-bong, nipa, and areka, while bamboos waved grsoefully over us, rivaled only by the tree-fern ; and conspicuous among the dense underwood, the ratan reared its tufied crown. Occasionally troops of monkeys noisily swung themselves fix>m branch to branch overhead, and birds of gaudy plumage glanced across our path.

The village of Tubrao was situated on the banks of the river, and snnounded by plantations, and we no sooner made our ap-peaiBDoe in the narrow street than the whole population turned oat lo inspect us, so unusual was the sight of a visitor to that se-questered spot We held a sort of levee in the house of the old Qiinaman who officiated in the capacity of Patriarch to the com-munity. It was a quaint, rambling wooden tenement of one sto-ry, with a broad, deep veranda supported by carved pillars, and large empty apartments like audience halls, used as carpenters* shopa, or bedrooms, or courts, as the occasion might arise, and kuag over with the usual gigantic paper lantem& We seated ooaelvea in the veranda, and were regaled with

C

84 DEPREDATIONS OF TIGERS.

preparations of betel, in which I observed, as a principal ingredi-ent, gambier, unknown as a condiment among the betel-chewers of Ceylon. Haying done due honor to this mark of attention by filling our mouths with its crimson juice, we were glad to wasJi them out with some delicious tea, served to us in small China cups, together with divers descriptions of sweetmeats.

Meanwhile we were entertamed by numerous eager narrators with wonderM accounts of the depredations which the tigers had recentiy committed in the neighboring plantations, and which surpassed all former experiences of a similar character. They pointed out to us among the crowd which surrounded us the oc-cupants of no fewer than twenty plantations who had deserted their cottages through fear of these daring and ferocious animals, and taken refuge in the village. Out of the comparatively small population, upward of fifty Chinamen had been carried off during the preceding three weeks. On one day alone five hacf disap-peared ; and when we visited their burial-ground, and observed the number of graves with umbrellas over them, to mark that the bones of the occupants had been found and laid there after they had been picked by the tigers, we were convinced that this was no exaggerated statement Upward of 10,000 piculs, or about £155000 worth of pepper, had been, in consequence, left upon the trees, dread of the tigers predominating in the breasts of the own-ers over love of their property.

As we had brought some rifles with us, we informed our enter-tainers that we should be delighted to undertake a campaign against these savage enemies if they could hold out any prospect of success. The proposition was received with unanimous ap-plause, but it was clear that no one had the slightest notion of how it was to be executed. We offered to wait until the follow-ing day, and have a regular battue, if they would beat the jungle with drums and fire-works. This, however, was a mode of pro-cedure to which they entirely objected ; and this I secretiy did not regret, as a previous experience in India had taught me tho danger of tiger-shooting on foot; so we then suggested that we should proceed, a little before the moon rose, to a deserted planta-tion, and watch a bait This was more readily agreed to, and the whole crowd instantly dispersed, and instituted a vigorous cru-sade against the dogs of the viUage. The process of securing these was in the highest degree ludicrous ; the screams of the

OBEAT niCBEASE OF CULTITATION. 55

Chinamoi mingled with the yella of their onfortunate victtms, who seemed to hare a preseotiment of the fate which awaited tbem, aad avenged tbemaelvea on the fat calves of their perse-eaton. At Itf t, after a degree of ooise and excitement snfKcient to ban aecaied aa many wolves, two luckleas curs were brought 10 iM, and hung by the I^s over a balustrade. We protested ty'"^ this inhnmitn treatment, and they were in consequence tnosfenvd to an oblong basket

We dined in a picturesque cottage, built upon piles over the river, aad ooold see through the crevices of the floor the sampans moond beneath, and the current gently rippling past; a rostic foot-bridge ^wnned the stream, and massive foliage drooped into

tke water. A few large tnding-boats gave token of some mer-cantile activity even in this remote corner of Asia, and we weru wupiiaed to hear how recently the prooesa of opening up tb<! odghboring country, and the creation of commerce consequent upon it, had commenced. Ten years ago the banks of this river were ahnost unexplored ; now the produce of 180 plantations wsk tnnqKiTted down its wstera. Some notion of the extent of the Chinese population may be gathered from the consumption of opium. The Tum£ngong received 22^ per cent upon the month-ly ales of opium from Uie &nner of ^e license. His monthly

86 START ON A TIGER-HUNT.— UNSUCCESSFUL RESULT.

revenue derived fix)m this source amounted to 18,000 rupees. He also received a ground rent of one dollar a month for every plantation of whatever description of cultivation, beginning from the commencement of the third year of its existence. There are now about 2000 plantations in the entire district of Johore pay-ing this rent, and the number is steadily increasing. They are, almost without exception, the property of Chinese emigrants. It is to be regretted that the cultivators are not permanent occu-pants. Until, however. Chinamen can be induced to bring their wives into foreign countries, the community to which they mi-grate only derives half the advantage which would accrue were permanent ties created which should bind to the soil a race so eminently qualified for its development.

Our repast over, we sallied forth, an uncouth procession. A number of Malays led the way, and flourished their long spears, the handles of which were Malacca canes, with broad blades at-tached to them. Then we followed, surrounded by numerous torch-bearers, while the great part of the village population brought up the rear, the basket containing our canine victims being slung between two Chinamen. After stumbling in dark-ness through sundry plantations, we at last arrived at the cottage said to be deserted, in which we were to take up our station. To our disgust, we no sooner approached it than we were greeted with the barking of dogs and the shouts of men, who appeared as much astonished and dismayed at our nocturnal invasion as if we had been tigers ourselves. They informed us that ten days had elapsed since three of their number had been carried oflC The two remaining had then left the plantation in a panic, but had lately returned, and had not been troubled with any new intima-tion of the proximity of their enemies. Nor could they tell us at which plantation our efforts would be most likely to meet with success, or even where we should be sure to find one deserted. As it now began to rain heavily, and the sky was so overcast as to render the prospect of a bright moon more than doubtful, we determined reluctantly to return to our boats, which we no sooner reached than we urged upon the Tumfingong the expediency of proceeding at once upon our journey.

Meantime admirable beds were made up for us on the bottom of our boat under the pent-roof of palm leaves, which serves effect-ually to protect the voyager in a sampan against the midday sue

ARRIVAL AT JOHORE. 87

or the dews of night; beneath this we stretched onr weary limbs, while with stnrdj stroke our Malay crew propelled oar light craft rapidly down the stream.

Sloramg foond us sailing with a light fiivorable breeze throng^ the stnitfli and we soon reached the eastern outlet Here, on the extreme point of the ishmd, at a spot called Shangy, from whence a good road has been made to Singapore, we landed to break&st The straits at this point are divided by the island of Polo Obin, npon which some valuable granite quarries are situated. Bound-ing this island, we shortly after entered a broad river, or rather fhth, and sailed for about twenty miles between banks which were heavily timbered, and backed by an unddating country, but we looked in vain for some signs of life. The magnifieent riigin fisrest has not yet been touched by the axes of men anxious to replace it by a profitable cultivation, nor has the broad bosom of the stream yet been plowed by the keels of native craft, freight-ed with all the varied produce which the soil is so well adapted to yield, and which possesses the additional advantage of being in cloee proximity, by water, to a large and ready market

There can be little doubt, however, that ere long the fiice of nature here too will be changed by the industrious hand of the Chineae. Our host told us that higher up the river they had be-gun to open plantations, while he derived a considerable revenue from m tin mine some few miles above Johore. This town is sit-uated npoQ the left bank of the river, here about four miles broad : a few Malay houses standing in the river upon piles, and a few more hidden in a thick grove of cocoanut-trees, are all that now represent the former capital of the state, and residence of its sul-tan. The desolation which surrounded it did not lead us to expect much in the town itself, but we were hardly prepared to find only n miaenble village, containing scarce a thousand inhabitants. SciU it was interesting to visit, as differing from those Chinese riUages which are now dotting the coast and creeks of the main land. The houses looked more substantial, and had a more dis-tinctive character. Some of them were three stories high, with windows usually in the gables, latticed and set in quaintly-carved frames, and out of these occasionally protruded the naked figures of wondering children, or the half-concealed countenance-^ of in-quisitive femalesL The thatch is made of a broad l^cail^d the jolong-jokmg, screens of which also project over the win/lowjt

ITS HISTOBICAL ASSOCIATIONS.

The Sides are sometimes formed of the same material ; sometimes, in the better olaas of houses, of wooden panels. Whether on land or water the hoose is invariably built on piles some twelve feet high, and the first story is readied by a ladder. The only object of such an arrangement on land most be to serve as a pro-tection &om wild beasts.

There are no historical associations of any importance connect-ed with Johore ; indeed, it is a town of comparatively recent date, having only been founded by the Malays in 1512, aiter their ex-pulsion from Malacca by the Portuguese in the previous year. According to Mr. Craw&rct, from that period until 1610 there

A nCTCBESQUE BEPAST. 39

roigned in Johore fourteen prinoea, giving an average duration of twenty-one years to each reign* The prince who died in the last of theae years left two sons, who disputed the succession. It suit-ed the policy of the English and Dutch govenunents to take each one of the rivals as its prot^, and hence the cession of Singapore to the fiist^ and of the island of Bintang to the last Both princes are now peosioneTS, the proteg^ of the English claiming sover-eignty over the countries north of the straits of Singapore, and he of the Dutch, those to the south of it» as laid down by the Con-▼enticMi of London of 1824.

We stooUed into the interior with our guns, in hopes of seeing game, but the jungle was impenetrable ; and although the marks of large game were numerous, wood-pigeons and squirrels were the only signs of life visible. Then evening dosed in, and the son, ere it finally sank, polished the smooth sur&ce of the river till it looked like a sheet of burnished copper ; and numbers of flying foxes {Pleropua Javanicus) awoke to the duties of the night, and flapped lazily overhead on their way to the gardens of the village. We amused ourselves firing at them as they sailed over-hoKl like giant and plethoric rooks going to roost ; . but they were QSoaUy too high up, and we only saw one tumbled headlong into a grove of coooanutrtrees, where, however, it was too dark to find

Meantime a busy group was assembled round a collection of pots and kettles, which began to possess a strong interest in our eyes. Our host had pointed out to us where the palace of his an-ccetors had once stood, but at the same time informed us that he pooseseed no habitation of his own at the former seat of his gov-ernment, 80 he had determined to give us an alfresco dinner rather than invite ns into a native house, an arrangement we thoroughly agreed in; and the growing darkness was soon illuminated with the glaie of torches made of damar put into oocoanut husks, which flashed luridly upon the tall, limbless stems of the trees, and upon dark figores oowering over cooking fires^ or hunying about with water and the preparatives of dinner. A rude table of boards had been hastily improvised, and, in feeble rivalry to the surround-ing blase, was lighted by the subdued glinmier of a civilized read-ing-lamp. A handsome service of China, finger-glasses, damask naplrina, and all the appurtenances of an elaborately appointed table, oontnsled strangely with the rude figures and uncouUi fonns

40 BETUBN TO SINQAFOBE.— ITS BAFID PBOGBES8.

which waited on us ; for a large portion of the population were in attendance, and added to the novel and picturesque effect of oar picnic. Our well-cooked dinner was accompanied by draughts of delioiouelj cool cocoanut water fresh from the trees abore na, whose branches were closely intertwined overhead,

A bin^g dome of luTCa, Bcuiopj mooD-proof."

We quitted with reluctance the scene of our rural festdvities and once more in our sampans swept down the smooth onrrent of the river in the calm moonlight, our crew beguiling the way with shrill unmelodious boat-aonga, in which screaming choruses and sudden spasmodic refrains were strangely intermingled with long piercing whistles and yells. In spite, however,' of their anti-soporific effect, these uneardily noises soon mingled in our dreams, and we only woke to consciousnesB to find ourselves in broad daylight, coasting along the southeastern shore of the island of Singapore, and, after a prosperous voyage of twelve hours, reached the town.

Though our expedition bad necessarily been limited, it had been sufficient to enable lis to appreciate, on our return to Singa-pore, the strong contrast which the British setUement exhibits to the native territory. Forty years have not elapsed since the con-dition of our island was the same as that of the main land. It then cont^ned only the huts of a few Malay fishermen. Already a hundred thousand soula occupy an area scarcely greater tban that of the Isle of Wight ; the forest is every where giving place to plantations of nutmeg and gambier; whole suburbs are spring-

ITS FirruBE. 41

tog up in the neighWhood of the town as if by magic; its capa-ciouB roads are filled with ahipa of every nation ; its revenue, al-ready exceeding 600,000 rupees, increaiBed in 1856 by about a fifth of that aom, so that not only does it pay its own local ex-penses, but combines with the other Straits settlementB to main-tain a body of 8800 convicts, and to contribute nearly a lakh and a half of rupees toward the payment of the military force from Madras forming the garrison. Such progress — ^the natural growth of an American town, and surpassed even by some of our own oolonieB — is unprecedented in ^e annals of Uie East India Com-pany's poasc anions, and is worthy, on that account, if on no other, of a higher consideration than it has received.

The future of Singapore is but fidnUy shadowed forth by its past hisloTy. That it is destined to hold the highest position among Ea^m emporia seems inevitable; but the speedy arrival uf so desirable a consummation depends upon its administration. Already its growth has been chcx^ked by a system which has, upon the continent of India, proved itself ill suited for the devel-opment of internal resources and the rapid extension of trade ; but here are conditions differing from those of any other portion of the late Company^s dominions. In addition to the large and daily-increasing Anglo-Saxon mercantile community, a continual influx of Chinese emigrants here compose the great majority of the inhabitanta

It may generally be said that, with few exceptions, whatever product of the Malay or Philippine archipelago demands skill and industry in its production is the result of Chinese labor. With-out Chinese labor neither the Malay nor Philippine archipelago, nor Siam nor Cochin China, would have sugar or tin for their exportation. Of the first they are the sole producers; of the latter they produce about 8000 tons. Hence it will appear that at Singapore there is no apathetic population indigenous to the soil to be nursed, but one composed of the two most industrious and enterprising races in the world, and who are quite competent to appreciate the advantages of a more progressive system of gov-ernment When an altered state of commercial relations with Chinn shall have opened that vast field to European enterprise^ when the trade with Siam, created by the recent treaty, and al-ready rapidly growing, has become more fully developed — when, onder the skillful administration of its European rulers, the re-

I

42 ITS FDTUKE.

sources of a large portion of Borneo find their way into the En-glish market — ^when the Malay peninsula, extensively peopled by industrious Chinese, furnishes its important and valuable produce — ^when, in &ct, from these and other sources, the whole trade of the East has increased ten-fold, it wiU be found that the import-ance of Singapore has not been over-estimated. In the mean time we may be permitted to hope that those changes which have taken place in the administration of that Eastern empire, of which Singapore forms a portion, may exercise a beneficial influence upon this valuable commercial emporium.

ABBIVAL AT HONG KQSTG. 43

CHAPTER 3.

CHAPTER m.

AMfhnl at Hovg Koqf.— Trip «p the Caatoa Bitw.^A

UwTiiiijB nrrpHTtt — MiriMrtfr C9anoa.^ApaMhj of ~L*iibc«hbi]w» of the RiTer.— Spread of the MotiBj.— It* Ia£ Elciii'* Pulicr.— 'Return to Singajiore.-^AddreH of ncrcaatik Co rirat at Cak^tta. HfiMiriwi cfeated.-^liofal Effect prodaecd «■ the S

We had acaicely been a week at Singapore before oar anxietaea were n^liered on the score of the speedy oonunoanoe of out jo;2r-ney by the arrival of the magnificent frigate which L^d baen placed by the government at the disposal of I^^rd Elgin. Tije ShaoooQ had made a remarkably quick passage frz^m Ei^glt^d. under the energetic command of the gallant Captaii. Peel. ai.i we ooogratolated oorselves on the favorable husf.xs T2r.'i^r wi^.h oar first experiences of the Celestial Empire aetrrr^i dceuiied to be made.

A fiuther delay of a few days was, however. ii.volTei. as ]>/ri Elgin had determined not to leave Simpiitort i^*J. U.e zi*o< arri-pie and complete arrangements had beun tr^lt i.r iLe Fj'^.-ij transmission of the Chinese expeditionary f«.*roe Vj li^L.:*. \\:\u this view, vessels were sent to the Straits of Ai. ^vr Vj (Lr^n £r<>ra that point the transports ocmveying tLtf KtL ai^u ti-l T^';r.::**'Z.\JL so as to avoid the tmneceasary detour tLro'2::L iL^ M:x^^jf:2L .Stni.*^ Meantime the Simoon had arrived with tLe oiL F^.l^r^rv. ax.d was immediately dispatched to Calcatxx On tie 2-^1 of Jux*e we bade adieu to Singapore, not without regret as. in Fj^ite of the of our visit, the community had coiitriv*rd to r':U'h.r oix

J there so agreeable, that the IkvoraLle iinj'rwjcm we t:.'^ Ibfined was not afierward effaced by any of our subst.^^ i^.u ex-pcriences in the East

The prevaleDce of the southwest monsoon. ar.'l tie h/izz^'ra' > iBTling qualitieB of the Shannon, enabled us to 'i.^jieu^ al:;«'>t cntiiely with steam on our voya^ up the Clila i>'2i : msA cl t'r^e eming of the ninth day after leaving S:c;r3f<;r*r, we tL^r.^n-d forth a noisy intimalioii of our arrival to the ilI^I^huiXm of Hong

44: COMPLICATED INTERNATIONAL QUESTION.

On the 6th of July Lord Elgin landed under a general salute, and proceeded to Government House for the puipose of holding a levee, and going thrpugh those official formalities incidental to his entry on the sphere of his future labors. As, however, in consequence of the Fatshan Creek affair, and other events which had recently occurred up the Canton River, the scene of our pres-ent operations there was invested with so much interest, Mr. Loch and I took advantage of the departure of H. M. S. Inflexible for Macao Fort on the day following for the purpose of collecting in-formation with as little delay as possible. The scenery in the immediate neighborhood of Hong Kong, and for the first eight or ten miles after leaving it, is not imlike that of the Western High-lands of Scotland. We dexterously steered between high grassy islands, round sharp comers, past little hamlets at the end of se-cluded bays, and through narrow devious channels, till at last we might fancy ourselves threading the Kyles of Bute instead of the Capshui Moon, or straits which separate the island of Lantao from the main. From it we emerge upon the Bay of Lintin.

We can hardly consider ourselves upon the Pearl River (as the Canton River is properly called) until we reach Chuenpee, for here the opposite coast is not visible, and the white sails of innu-merable junks dot the horizon — each high-stemed craft a matter of curious speculation to every naval officer who sees her, and who, in the condition in which our diplomatic relations with the empire then were, is thrown into a state of profound perplexity as to whether she is his lawful prize or not : he finds himself at once entangled in a maze of knotty points, involving intricate questions of international law, upon which he is called to decide on the spot She may be a smuggler in British interests, in which case he is to let her pass ; or a peaceful trader in American interests, taking up charcoal and saltpetre for gunpowder to be exploded against us, in which case he is not to let her pass ; or a peaceful trader in purely Chinese intei^ests, and as such to be re-spected ; or a purely Chinese smuggler, when her capture is op-tional ; or a regular out-and-out pirate, when it is advisable ; or a merchantman, but suspiciously well-armed, when it is discretion-ary ; or a mandarin (man-of-war) junk in the disguise of a mer-chantman, when it is imperative. Under these complicated cir-cumstances, the simple plan of proceeding manifestly is to make a prize of the junk, and settle afterward whether she is pirate,

CHUEKPEE.— MONSTER CANNON. ^45

tjader, snake-boat, mandarin-boat, smuggler, or &st-boat, together with the law that applies to her.

Fonnerly boats had been allowed to go np armed, but not to oome down ; bat recently a system of passes had been introduced, which only served to render matters more complicated. Mean-cime trifling affiays were daily occurring, reflecting but little glory on those en^peiged — ^injuring our prestige with the Chinese, bat yet rendered inevitable by the anomalous condition in which oar relations stood with reference not only to China, but to other nabona engaged in carrying on commercial operations with her. Kotwithstanding this species of constant irritation which was kept ap on the river, our ships maintained the most amicable inter-oooite with the inhabitantB on the banks, who supplied them with meat and vegetables; indeed, each ship had usually a bum-boat speciaUy attached

In about four hours we reached Chuenpee, and, in spite of the beat, scrambled to the top of the hill, from where we had a mag-nificent view of the surrounding country, out of which rise the naked hills, washed bare by violent tropical rains, so that the beaaty of their slopes may be said to have been sacrificed by na-ton to fisjtilize the rich idluvial plains at their base. In the dis-tance was the walled town of Hoomanchai, celebrated for the sign-ing of the supplementary treaty. The creek by which it was ap-proached was staked across as a means of defense.

Tboogh of comparatively a trifling elevation, the little barrack at the top of the Chuenpee Hill answered the purpose of a sanita-liom. The fort was held at this time by 180 men and one small gun. Some monstrous cast-iron Chinese cannon, weighing 6 tons each, measuring about 18 feet in length, and of a calibre larger than a 95 cwt, had been buried by the Chinese without ever having been fired, and were now being exhumed

At Chuenpee we met Commodore Keppel and Sir Robert Mac-Inie, and accompanied them to the Bc>gue, upon this occasion taking but a hurried view ol those forts already so celebrated in the history of our Chinese wars, and with which we were destined to become much better acquainted. A little beyond them we passed a cieek in which the Esk's boats had been engaged the day befinv, and had succeeded in capturing a snake-boat, which w« aaw, though with a loss of three men killed and seven

46 APATHY OF POPULATION.

After passing the Bogae we are fisdrlj in the river, and the navigation begins to be impeded by shoals. At the second of these is a pagoda, known as Second Bar Pagoda ; then we turn off to the left into Blenheim Passage, along which, at the period of our visit, junks were not allowed to pass. Though these wa-ters were exdusivelj traversed by our men-of-war, the agricultur-al population little heeded the puffing of the numerous steamers which were constantly engaged in keeping up the communication between Macao Fort and the other ships stationed on the river; and though rarely a day passed without the sound of a distant cannonade £sdling upon their ears, they had become accustomed to the strife by which they were surrounded, and worked as busily in their paddy-fields as tiiough Fatshan were a myth, Canton in another world, and BritiaU gun-boata a necessary condition of their existence.

It was our first introduction to Chinese scenery : numerous villages dotted the river banks, some of them utterly destroyed and depopulated either by rebels or ourselves ; others densely crowded among trees, the most conspicuous object being the high square tower, with massive loop-holed walls, rising in proud eminence above the surrounding roo&, indicative, not of some old feudal baron, who, secure in his strong-hold, holds the lives of his vassals in pawn for their good behavior, but — significant of the character of the race— of some old usurer who needs a fortress for the preservation of sundry goods and chattels which he holds in ' pawn for the credit of his victims. The number of these pawnbrok-ing towers inspires one with rather a low estimate of the solvency of the tommunity. Then there are tall red poles, scattered in pairs among the villages, betokening a joss-house, or the residence of a mandarin. The carved gables of the better class of houses pro-ject above the other roo& like gigantic grave-stones, while the graves themselves resemble the mouths of large wells.

Here and there a hill is crowned by a tall pagoda, while lesser pentagonal towers, four or five stories high, with pointed roofe, rise above the trees like those of churches. At the base of bar-ren hills are charming wooded nooks, which look all the greener and fresher by the contrast, while an active population is swarm-ing every where ; men are fishing in tiny punts on the river ; women are patching up the basket screens which retain the mud of the paddy-fields on the banks, or wading aboilt in the mud

UACAO FOBT.

47

looldng for somethiDg ; ooolies are traversiiig with swinging gait the ridges of the fields, heavily loaded ; while under the shade of (he spreadiag branches of the giant Ficua IndieuB, or at the doors of joB-botiaes, motley groups are collected, gazing at us as we sweep pMt

We ibond the Fniy and Highflyer the advanced ships, and, traitfferTing ourselves here into a gun-boat, proceeded toward Ma-cao Fort past the boom which had been stretched across the river 1^ the Chinese, close to the eotiy up the Fatshan Creek. The fort, so gallantly stormed by Commodore Elliot, was distinctly Ttnble. Macao Fort is distant about three miles from Canton ; aitaated on a little iaUnd nearly in mid-stream, it occupies a fk-▼orable pontion as an advanced post, though with a more active enemy the small garrison could never have maintained them-selves there, as they did, for a year. The present force consisted of 180 men. and tlie fort mounted 14 guns. From the top of the towv, which was used as a hospital, we hnd a good view of Can-

FiiniCMHBU*«^

ton and the Wbita Ctood Hountains in rear, on which anndry ^ite tents betokened the presence of troops.

48 SFBEAD OF THE BCUTINY

The garrison was composed of men from the Baleigh, and seemed to pass an existence in which the hardships of war were not altogether untempered bj the refinements of civilization. The admirable band belonging to the "late" frigate played some elaborate pieces with great execution, while we discussed jxit& de foia gras and Champagne, seated, it is true, on upturned boxes and round a table of primitive manu£EU^ture, while our sideboard had apparently done duty at some former period as the altar of a joss-house. As habiliments were scarce, the costume of the sentry exhibited a pleasing mixture of John Chinaman and Jack Tar.

A good deal knocked up ourselves by our day's labors, we could not but sympathize with the naval forces stationed along the whole length of the river at so unhealthy a season of the year. The thermometer was standing at 102° under the shade of the awning on board the Esk ; and it was not to be wondered at that, under the combined influence of sun and miasma^ one vessel alone, out of a small complement of 180 men in perfect health, should have put 60 on the sick-list in the short space of three weeks. Under these circumstances, we were not tempted to linger up the river longer than was absolutely necessary, though the change to Hong Kong, which we reached on the fol-lowing day, was olily tolerable by contrast

A few days after our return to Hong Kong news arrived, the serious nature of which increased, if possible, the already existing complications of the position in which Lord Elgin found himself placed on his arrival in China. The prolonged resistance at Del-hi, the rapid spread of the rebellion into the lower provinces of Bengal, and the urgent representations of Lord Canning of the exigencies of the situation, not only deprived the embassador of any hope of saving any part of the China force from the vortex into which they were being swallowed by the inexorable necessi-ties of India, but rendered it extremely improbable that they could ever be made available for the objects for which they were originally designed. His only consolation was that he had ap-preciated the^true position of affairs in India at a sufficiently early date to enable him to divert the troops to that country at the most critical period of its fortunes; but the difficulties of the situation in China had been immeasurably enhanced by the sacrifice.

It was clear that any attempt to negotiate in the immediate neighborhood of the capital of the empire, unaccompanied by any

ITS IHFLUEHCE ON LOBD ELGHTS FOLICT. 49

ferae, mvuBt dq>eiid veiy much for soooesB upon the moral effect ereded bj the aspect of affairs in the south. The presence of an Mxmj at Hong Kong might have sufficed to produce this, but not only Has our force there contemptible, but our naval operations had resulted in failure. Teh had vindicated the policy of his treatment of the barbarians, and triumphal arches had been erect-ed ID eommemorate his success ; while, to import a new set of considerations into the question, Baron Oros was not expected to arrive in China for some months. Under these circumstances, only three other oourses remained open— either to take Canton, 10 remain inactive at Hong Kong, or to leave the country until the diplomatic questions at issue there could be approached un-der different and more &vorable auspices. The season of the year, and the weakness of the force to be employed, rendered the captore and occupation of Canton impossible in the opinion of the commanden-in-chie£ A residence involving total inaction fli Hong Kong was calculated to injure the prestige of the mission, while it was attended with no one single advantage.

On the other hand, this evil was avoided by an immediate de-ptrtore, while in choosing Calcutta as his destination, and taking with him as many marines as could be spared fiom the river. Lord Elgin adopted a oouise which enabled him not only to satisfy himself as to the probable fiite of the original China force, and to jiMlge of the possibility and expediency of supplying their place, m was subsequently done, with quasi-mutinous Bengal regiments, bot 10 bring a monl and material support to Lord Canning at a moment when it seemed probable that the safety of Calcutta it-sdf was menaced, Lideed, so urgent appeared the exigencies of the case, that Lord Elgin even then determined to give up the Shannon to the Lidian government, if Captain P^l considered that the organization of a naval brigade to operate in the prov-of Upper Bengal was a feasible scheme. That officer ex-no hesitation on the subject, and the high reputation which he had already earned in a similar service in the Crimea opented as an additional inducement with Lord Elgin to proceod with him to Calcutta. This resolution ¥[as no sooner formed than npon, and within thirty-six hours after the Indian intcUi-was received the Shannon was once more plowing her way orer the China Sea, accompanied by the Pearl, whose assistance was required for the conveyance of the troops.

D

50 SINGAPORE.— ADDBESS OF MERCANTILE COfilMUNITY.

The following address, presented to Lord Elgin by the mer-chants of Singapore on his arrival there, was satisfactory to his excellency, as proving that the course he was then adopting car-ried with it the approbation of a commnnity whose most import-ant interests were at stake both in- India and China :

"To his ExoeHency the Right Hon. the Earl of Elgin and Kiscabdins, KT., Her MigeBty*8 High Ck)inmis8ioiier and Flenipotentiiuy to the Conrt of Pekin.

*« Singapore, Jnly 20, 1857.

" My Lord, — ^We, the undersigned mercantile firms and others interested in the trade of Singapore, are induced, by a considera-tion of the serious aspect of affairs in India, and of the important bearing which it must have upon those questions which it was the object of your excellency's mission to settle in China, to present this address to your lordship, believing that at this critical junc-ture, when compUcations have arisen involving such grave inter-ests in both countries, it wUl be gmtifying to your exceUency to know that the mercantile community of Singapore, although closely connected in trade with China, and anxiously desirous for the speedy and satisfi^tory resumption of commercial relations with Canton, have nevertheless cordially concurred in the resolu-tion which your excellency has taken of diverting the China ex-peditionary army fix)m its destination to the assistance of the European force now engaged in the defense of our Indian posses-sions. The decided step which -your lordship has so promptly taken of following that army yourself has afforded us the most lively satis&ction. Its absence ^m the sphere of its operations in China, and the uncertainty attending the period of its ultimate dispatoh to that country, would, in our opinion, have rendered your stay there comparatively useless, more particularly As the extent of our naval force is amply sufficient for the protection of trade and the maintenance of the status quo until your lordship^s return.

" On the other hand, we feel that the magnitude of the stake in India, and the fearful nature of the crisis which is now impending there, supersede all other considerations.

" We believe that the arrival of your lordship at Calcutta in this emergency will be of the greatest advantage in producing an important moral effect throughout India, and in affording the gov* emor general most valuable support.

ABBIVAL AT CALCUTTA. 51

** At tbe Buna time, we sinoerely trust that the progress of evtnXB in India may shortly aasome such a character as will en-able jour lordship to return to the original field of your labors onder moie faToiable auspices.

** We have, eta,

(Signed^ "A. L. Johnston & Co.,

ami twm^f^mvem oiker$."

The awfiil intelligence of the massacre of Cawnpore reached us here, and we did not therefore remain longer than was absolutely neoesBary to take in 400 tons of coal — a feat which was perform-ed in the almost incredibly short space of twenty-one hours— and to {Mck up 800 men of the troops wrecked in the ill-fitted Transit IKstiibuting these between the Pearl and ourselves, we at once proceeded on our voyage, cheered by the news that the Himalaya had already passed, and that ships were on the watch at the Straits of Anjier for the diversion of the Assistance and Adventure, now daily expected. Our own decks were densely crowded with near-ly a thousand souls, whose conditioxv was not improved by an at-mo^here in which the thermometer continually stood over 90^. Notwithstanding the utmost exertions of Captain Peel in '* carry-ing on,^ in consequence of the prevalence of the southwest inon* soon we had been a fortnight in beating down to Singapore ; but we were fiivored up the Bay of Bengal by the gales which had been advene to us in the China Sea, and reached the Sandheads in exactly three weeks from the date of our leaving Hong Kong.

The interest which we felt as we approached the theatre of the terrible drama which was then being enacted in India was con* ▼erted into a still livelier emotion by the intelligence which we reoetved when we reached Diamond Harbor of a rumor that a hige body of mutineers were marching down firom Beihampore upon Calcutta. The more ardent spirits among us at once imag-ined that we were fated to arrive there just in time to take an active share in the defense of the city ; while Lord Elgin, who knew not what credit to attach to the report, at a time when every saooeflsive mail had so far surpassed our worst anticipations, im-mediately telegraphed to Lord Canning his proximity with 1700 men (the Pearl and blue-jackets included).

As we swept past Ganien Beach on the afternoon of the 8th of August, the excitement on board was increased by early indi-

52 MORAL EFFECT ON THE NATIVES.

cations of the satis&ction with which our appearance was hailed on shore. First our stately ship suddenly burst upon the aston-ished gaze of two European gentlemen taking their evening walk, who, seeing her crowded with the eager £suses of men ready for the &ay, took off their hats and cheered vdldly ; then the respect-able skipper of a merchantman worked himself into a state of phrensy, and made us a long speech, which we could not hear, but the violence of his gesticulations left us in little doubt as to its import ; then his crew took up the cheer, which was passed on at intervals until the thunder of our 68-pounders drowned every other sound, shattered the windows of sundry of the ''palaces," attracted a crowd of spectators to the Maidan, and brought the contents of Fort William on to the glacis.

As soon as the smoke cleared away, the soldiers of the garrison collected there sent up a series of hearty cheers ; a moment more, and our men were clustered like ants upon the rigging, and, in the energy which they threw into their ringing response, they pledged themselves to the achievement of those deeds of valor which have since covered the naval brigade with glory. After the fort had saluted, Lord Elgin landed amid the cheers of the crowd assembled at the Ghaut to receive him, and proceeded to Government House, gratified to learn, not merely from the popu-lar demonstrations, but from Lord Canning himself that^ though happily the physical force he had brought with him was not re-quired to act in defense of the city, still that the presence of a man-of-war larger than any former ship that had ever anchored abreast of the Maidan, and whose guns commanded the city, was calculated to produce both upon the European and native popu-lation a most wholesome moral effect, more especially at a time when the near approach of the Mohurrum had created in men^s minds an unusual degree of apprehension and excitement

OONDmON OF INDIA IN AUGUST, 1857. 68

CHAPTER 4.

CHAPTEB 17.

of India in Aagoit, 1857 — State of Calentta.— OisaniMtkm of naval Brifsda. — The MohumaL— -DepartnrB from Calcntta.— Policy adopted hy Lord facta. — HwMwiwi at Hong Kong.— Itt Abience of Attractkmt^— A Trip ap the Bif«r. — ^Haoaa — ^A Chinen Dinnor.

Wb spent August) 1857, in Calcutta. Ofall the eyentful months of that vaoA terrible year in Indians history, it was probably the one most pregnant with evil forebodings. At no former period had the crisis appeared so imminent Two commanders-in-chief had already succumbed before Delhi ; our army was dwindling away under its walla, and its leaders urgently demanding le-en-ibroements which did not exist Agra was besieged by a muti-0008 anny, and men feared for the unhappy garrison a repetition of the Cawnpoie tragedy. This frightful catastrophe appeared to impend still more surely over the devoted band at Lucknow, whose deliverance at one time was considered hopeless. At Dina-pore our troops had just met with a disaster. The gallant little anny under Oeneral Havelock, despairing of re-enforcements, deci-mated by cholera, and worn out by battles and hardships, were ontnprlled to retire on Cawnpore. Oude, Rohilcnnd, Bundelcund, were lost to us ; the disaflEsction threatened to spread into the other presidaKaes; everywhere the mutineers seemed triumphant; star tion after station was being deserted and plundered ; each week steamers foil of fugitives arrived from up the country, with addi-tional honon to recount, and more disaffection to report All communication was stopped with the northwest; from Burdwan 10 Delhi, the countiy was infested with mutineers; and eveiy Rgiment but two in the Bengal army had either been disarmed, dinbanded, or had mutinied. With the exception of the small China fbroe, no European troops had arrived or were expected to airive for two months. Meantime the hot weather was all against Oil and all in &vor of the rebels.

Under these painftd circumstances, nothing struck me so forci-bly on my arrival as the apparent calm which reigned in Calcutta; and yel, after the first few weeks, nothing appeared more reason-

r

54 STATE OF CALCUTTA.— NAVAL BRIGADE.

able than that this should be so. Those who are removed to a great distance from the scene of thrilling events, and experience at the receipt of periodical intelligence fix)m it an intense degree of excitement, forget that if those on the spot were to be subject-ed to a similar strain upon the nervous system, continued over a length of time, it would give way altogether. Providentially, the very proximity of the danger, and constant familiarity with those horrible details, which, arriving by installments in England, acted on society like a series of electric shocks, produced a calnmess al-most amounting to apathy in India. So &r as the outward aspect of society was concerned, Calcutta was just as I had left it seven years before. The Maidan was just as crowded by its beauty and &shion now as it used to be then ; burra-cannas were nearly as numerous, considering it was the height of the hot weather ; and there was even a wretched attempt at an opera, which, however, was very thinly attended. The only differences I observed were that constant reviews took place of volimteer corps; that the gov-ernor general's body-guard mounted sentry without swords ; and tiut dSng in Fort Wmiam involved li.e risk of being bayo'neted by a series of Irish sentries, who would not admit your pronun-ciation of the parole to be correct, and were haunted by the sus-picion that you were the King of Oude in disguise escaping in a buggy.

It would be in the highest degree unjust to attribute this appar-ent indifference to any want of appreciation of the real nature of the crisis, much less to any want of sympathy in behalf of those who had suffered, or of depth of feeling on the part of the suffer-ers themselves. It arose rather from that deliberate courage and steady determination to face the danger and support the trials which had so eminently distinguished our countrymen scattered throughout the upper provinces, and which had led to acts of xm-paralleled heroism. The public felt that, with the present defi-ciency of physical force, they must principally rely for safety upon that moral effect which an undaunted attitude would create in .the minds of the natives. Nowhere was this conviction more decid-edly entertained, or its results more conspicuously displayed than at Government House, and there can be little doubt that the ex-ample set by Lord Canning himself in this respect exercised a most wholesome and tranquillizing influence upon society at large.

Meantime the organization of the naval brigade proceeded rap-

THE MOHUBRUM. 55

kfly ; indeed, we had scarcely left the ship before oar cabins were diniUDtled, and the preparations commenced for the equipment of Teiy nearly the entire ship's company. Within a week after our arriral in Calcutta these were completed, and Lord Elgin went on board the Shannon to bid farewell to the men and offi-oeis in a parting address, which was received with hearty cheers. A few hours afterward Uiey were on board the flats which were u> convey them to the scene of their future triumphs.

We found Sir Patrick Grant at Calcutta, and a few days after-ward Sir Colin Campbell unexpectedly arrived to assume the command-in-chief of the army in India, and to inspire fresh confi-deooe into the minds of alL The most exciting period of our visii was during the last days of the Mohurrum, when predictions were rife of midnight attacks, and one or two ladies took refuge on board ships in the river. A 24-pound howitzer, hoisted up to the main-top of the Shannon, looked menacingly over the Maidan, while strong guards of soldiers and volunteers were posted all over the town. The last day, however, universally named as the day of attack, passed over quietly. I happened to meet the pro-CQSBion on their way to throw the Ziahs into the water. I have scaioely ever seen a Mohammedan religious procession less ex-dlcd ; indeed, the panic among the natives was much greater than among the Europeans, for the preparations made by the latter in-duced a dread on the part of the natives that they might be at-tacked by mistake.

Load Elgin was detained at Calcutta until the arrival of the mail infijfming him that the force which he had diverted was to be replaoed by 1500 marines. An offer made by General Hear-aaj tor regiments to volunteer for China was only responded to bj ODC^ and it was evident, therefore, that no dependence could be placed up<Mi extensive re-enforcements to be derived from this aouroe. Ab for the original China force, it was owing to their opportone arrival that the tide of rebellion, which had been set-tbg steadily down upon Calcutta, was already stemmed The icgimentB diverted from Singapore had saved Dinapore, relieved Amh, and were in tdUl maich to join Havelock : upon these timely re-enforoements not only was the relief of Lucknow, but the aa&tj of Bengal depending. It was therefore clear to Ix>rd Elgin that he need not expect to see again any one of the China Rgioienti now employed in India, nor, while ^ey were rendering

56 DEPARTURE FROM CALCUTTA.— LORD EL6m*S POLICY.

such vital service, could he desire it A consideration of these circumstances involved a very serious change in his policy in China, whither he was now desirous of returning for the purpose of conferring with Baron G-ros immediately upon his arrivaL In consequence of the Shannon having been made over for the serv-ice of the Indian government, the Peninsular and Oriental Com-pany's steamer Ava was placed at Lord Elgin's disposal for his conveyance to China, and on the Sd of September we bade adieu to our hospitable hosts at Calcutta, and once more turned our &ces toward the Celestial Empire.

Gheneral Van Straubenzee and his staS| who had arrived in Cal-cutta with Sir Colin Campbell, under the impression that the gen-erals of the China force had proceeded with it to India, finding that they had not received orders to leave Hong Kong, accom-panied us on our return voyage to that place.

On the 20th of September, after a prosperous passage, we once more found ourselves anchored under Victoria Peak in circum-stances very little more encouraging than those which had forced us away from China two months before. An expedition to the mouth of the Peiho was more than ever to be deprecated. Two months more must elapse before the first installment of marines could be expected, at the most fiivorable computation. Baron Gros had hot yet made his appearance.

In the mean time, during our absence at Calcutta, the compli-cations and difficulties arising out of the anomalous state of things already described upoii the Canton River had forced the admiral to establish a blockade, which gave a new complexion to the as-pect of our diplomatic relations with the imperial government To go to the mouth of the Peiho unsupported either by the rep-resentatives of other powers or a naval force of our own would be to insure an insult fix)m the government at Pekin, while the prev-alence of the northeast monsoon would retard our arrival in the Gulf of Pechelee until so late a period of the year that a depart* ure would be forced upon us with a precipitancy in the highest degree encouraging to the systematic policy of the empire in deal-ing with barbarians, and injurious to our national prestige. The treatment which we received &om the Chinese authorities upon the occasion of our subsequent visit to the Peiho folly confirmed the estimate then formed of the obstinacy of the government of Pekin. Under these circumstances, Lord Elgin detennined pa-

BB8IDENCE AT HOKO KONO. 67

lieoUy to awiit at Hong Kong the anival of the force destined tx the cqitare of Canton, and when that operation was conduded, 10 proceed northwaid as early as possible in the following year, retaining poasoarion of the city as a material goarantee for the aatiiifiHstkHt of oar d^^mftfidft,

In the mean time, the interval of inaction at Hong Kong, which this deteimination rendered inevitable, involved an existence un-der drcomstances of a somewhat trying character. A steamer of the Peninsular and Oriental Company, however comfortable its accommodation, and obliging and amiable its comnumder (and in Captain Caldbeck we were particularly fortunate in this regard), is not escaetly the residence which one would select in which to pass two summer months in one of the worst tropical climates in the world; nor, even if the attractions of Hong Kong were leas \han they are, which is scaroely possible, is it a pleasant thing to be anchored a mile at least from the shore. During th^ season of typhoons this distance was doubled. We then sought shelter un-der ihe Kowloon Promontory ; and a dinner on shore was a seri-OQS undertaking, when it involved a midnight voyage in an open Tukka boat, possibly in a gale of wind or a pitiless storm of rain. This was an experience of conmion occurrence. Sometimes we were detained on shore from stress of weather; and on the occa^ BOO of a typhoon, which destroyed two hundred junks at Macao, bat the foil violence of which we escaped, the Ava was obliged to keep under steam all night

When it was not blowing or raining, the heat was intolerable, and we all suffered more or less in health from its evil effects. Often (at dajs together we remained sweltering on board from laek of energy or sufficient inducement to leave the ship. The charms of the Club or the excitement of a game of billiards fidled to tempt aa Hong Kong boasts of only two walks for the con-scientious Taletudinarian— one along the sea-shore to the right, and the other io the left of the settlement: then there is a scram-hktothetopof Victoria Peak at the back of it; but this achieve-ment involves an early start, and a probable attack of fever. The Boootony of life is varied by this malady alternating with boils or dysentery, so that the proverbial hospitality of the merchants at Hong Euong can only be exercised under very adverse influ* cnoQL It was not difficult to account for a certain depression of spritB and tone of general irritability which seemed to pervade

68 A TRIP UP THE BIVER.

the communily. A laxge bachelors' dinner was the extreme limit of gayety .

It was provoking that a place possessing so many scenic atr tractions should have been so entirely devoid of other charms, like a beautiful woman with a bad temper, Hong Kong claimed our admiration while it repelled our advances. We did, indeed, make one spasmodic effort to be '^ jolly under creditable circum-stances." Lord Elgin gave a picnic at the Bogue Forts. As his invitations were responded to by nearly all the ladies in the place, as the day happened to be lovely, and the Ava admirably adapted for the excursion, the attempt was not altogether unsuc-cessful, and on our return at night we indulged in a little pic-turesque dissipation. The deck was turned into a ball-room. The band of the Calcutta supplied us with excellent music, while huge fantastic Chinese lanterns, swinging fix)m the awning, threw a brilliant light upon the dancers.

On the 16th of October Baron Gros arrived in the Audacieuse, and, after conferring with Lord Elgin, took up his anchorage in Castle Peak Bay, Lantao Island, where Admirial Bigault de Oe-nouilly, with the French fleet, were at anchor, about (welve miles distant from Hong Kong. As Lord Elgin was desirous of judg-ing for himself on the state of matters in the river, he proceeded in the Ava to Macao Fort With the exception of the withdrawal of the garrison fix>m Chuenpee, the occupation of North Wantung Island, and the absence of any junks from the river in consequence of the blockade, the aspect of affairs seemed unchanged since my last visit. We cast longing glances from the top of the pagoda in Macao Fort upon the heights at the back of Canton, crowned by the five-storied pagoda and Gough's Fort, with which we hoped before long to make a closer acquaintance.

On our return voyage we passed through Elliot's Passage, which had not been traversed for mcmths ; we therefore took another gun-boat, towing an armed pinnace, so as to be prepared for the very improbable contingency of meeting mandarin junks. The scenery was extremely pret^ ; the people engaged in taking in the hsurvest stared at us with curiosity, but apparent confidence. We entered the Whampoa Channel at the town of Whampoa, formerly a place of as great bustle and activity as the port of Canton, the site of docks, and the anchorage of large merchant fleets, now partially deserted, and desolate-looking in the extreme.

MACAO.— A CHINEBB DINNEB. 59

On the foDowing day we pnxseeded to Macao, and explored that interestiDg old Portuguese aettlement, with which, however, we hrnve been too long familiar in England to render description ueoeasaiy. Its air of respectable antiquity was refreshing after the aomewhat parvenu character with which its ostentatious mag-nifioenoe invests Hong Kong. The narrow streets and grass* grown plazaa, the handsome &^e of the fine old Cathedral cnunUing to decay, the shady walks and cool grottoes, once the bannt of the Portuguese poet ; his tomb, and the view from it, aD combined to produce a soothing and tranquillizing effect upon aenaibtlities irritated by our recent mode of life.

We strolled down to the harbor, and found it full of junks, moet of them heavily armed with 6, 9, and 12-pound guns, bear* ing the well-known initials B., P., & Co., of this yearns date, to be converted by Yeh to his own use when occasion required, for the crews did not conceal the fact that Canton was their destination — of oome for trading purposes. Since the blockade of the river, the wbde trade with Canton has been carried along the passage at the back of Macao, known as the Broadway.

We refieshed ourselves after the fiitigues of our exploration at aChincee restaurant, where I made my first experience in Chinese eookexy , and, in spite of the novelty of the implements, managed, by the aid of chop-sticks, to make a very satis&ctory repast off" eggs a year old preserved in clay, sharks' fins and radishes pared and boiled into a thick soup, UAe de mar or sea-slugs, shrimps made into a paste with sea-chestnuts, bamboo roots, and garlic, rendered piquant by the addition of soy and sundry other pickles and ooodimeota, and washed down with warm samshu in minute copa Dishes and plates were all on the smallest possible scale, and pieces of square brown paper served the purpose of napkins.

On the 28th of October, the arrival of the Imperador, after a re-maikably quick voyage, with the first batch of marines on board, impaited new life and hope to the breast of every one connected with the Chinese expedition. It was the first faint glimmering of dayhght after the long night of deqx>ndency and inaction.

60 VOYAGE TO THE FHJUPFINES.

CHAPTER 5.

CHAPTER V.

Voyage to the Philippines. — ^ArriTal at l(£a]iilla.^Appearance of the Towil—A varied Popolation. — ^Their Costmnes. — ^Tobacco-manofactory. — ^The Price of To-bacco.— A Pifia Shop. — Indolence of the Mestixoes. — IndxuAry of the Chinese Population.— Chinese Emigration : its Advantages. — ^The C^ytain General of the Philippines. — Militaiy Mass. — ^A Trip to Cavit^. — ^A. religions Procession. — ^Ex-cursion to the Lago de Bai. — ^Loe Baaos. — ^The Romance of La Gironite. — ^The Island of Socolme. — ^A stormy Voyage. — ^The Trade of Manilla.

It will easily be believed that the mode of existence described in the last chapter was one calculated to give one a very keen rel-ish for any thing like a change, more especially when that change involved all the excitement of novelty and sight-seeing incidental to a visit to a new coontty. It was therefore with no little satis* faction that, on the 10th of November, I availed mj^elf of permis-sion to accompany Captain Sherard Osbom to Manilla in H. M. S. Furions, a ship with which I was destined afterward to become better acquainted, and in which he was then kind enough to offer me a passage. Mr. Wingrove Cooke, with whose graphic descrip-tions of the events which at this period transpired in China the public are familiar, was my fellow-passenger on this occasion. After a pleasant run of three days we sighted the high land of the island of Luzon, and coasted along its wooded shores, indented with deep bays, at the head of which small country towns were situated, and from which the country craft issued that carry on a brisk coasting trade with Manilla.

The Bay of Manilla is so capacious as to partake more of the character of an inland sea than of a harbor. It was nearly nud-night when we made its narrow entrance, and three hours more ere we reached our anchorage. We were up early to take our first look of Manilla, but the view of the town from the sea pre-sents nothing veiy imposing. A long row of red-tiled loofe, with here and there the dome of a church, appears oyer the walls of the fort, situated in the angle formed by the embouchure of the River Pasig, and separated from the sea by a strip of green espla-nade. Two substantially-built moles or " murallons" confine the

MANILLA: ITS APFBARANCE. 61

wuen of the river for some distanoe after they have reached the •ea; ml the end of one is a light-house, and of the other a guard-hoiiBe. We poll acrosB the bar between walls of granite, and wend oar way among the miscellaneous assemblage of shipping thai crowds ihe river — Spanish fisluccas and Malay proesi English merchsDlmen hanled up to refit, and gun-boats with long sweeps, and poiitmes, and galeras^ and caraQoas, and every description of coontiy craft and uncouth rig, and, by way of contrast, two small 9ar^'§feMxners^ which ply across the harbor to Cavi&, of which the Spaoiaids are particularly proud, and to one of which they hare given the significant name of the ^^ Progresso." Small river-boalB^ fbn of vegetables or passengers, cut in and out; groups of women are collected on the steps bathing; and Custom-house guards lounge upon the river brink, but they have a proper re-ipect fior a British man-of-war's gig, and allow us to reach our laoding-plaoe unchallenged^ and carry our portmanteaus to the hold without manifesting the slightest duriosity to know whether they coolain the two articles which are perhaps most commonly lo be found in every traveler's luggage, but which are most strict-ly prohibited firom being landed at Manilla, to wit, Bibles and revolveiSb

In ascending the river, the fortified town, containing the garri-son and residences of the officials, is on the right-hand side ; on the other is a densely populated suburb, in which the shops, ho-tehi and foreigneis* houses are situated This is intersected by sundry canals running at right angles to the river, crowded with boats, and on the banks of one of these stood the hotel to which we were destined It was patronized by what Americans would call " a mixed crowd," chiefly captains of merchantmen from ev-eiy quarter of the globe, but whose polyglot conversation did not at all perplex our bustling hostess, as she spoke, during break&st, EngUah, French, Spanish, Mahiy, and Hindostanee, all with such perfect fluency that her own nationality remained a mystery.

In obedience to the first and most natural impulse of a visitor to Manilla, we lost no time in making our way to the principal cherooi manufiictory, and as we drove through the streets there was plenty to engage our attention* Their whole aspect, as well as that of the population with which they are crowded, differs cBliidy from thai of any other town I had ever visited in the The houses are two-storied, the upper half forming the

62 VAMED POPULATION.— COSTUMES.

dwelling-Iiouse and the lower the shop. Bound the npper story runs a covered btdcony, the rades and fronts composed of shutters divided into minute squares, which are filled wil^ mother-of-pearl shells, the transparency of the nacre serving the poipose of glass. Beneath this bdcony blue and white calico screens project, and fall beyond the side pavement in such a manner as to form a cov-ered way for the passengers, sufficient not only to protect them from the BTjp, but to conceal them from the view of any body in tte centre of the street These screens are put up in accordance with a municipal regulation, and when they are new, and the col-ors are fresh, give a gay appearance to the streets. , A mi:£ed multitude throng these shady sidewalks. Chinese and English, pure Spaniards and mestizoes, Malays and Tagala Indians, here jostle one another, and present every possible shade of color which could result from a combination of all these races in various proportions. The variety of costume is similarly grad-uated, its composition depending upon the composition of the wearer, and differing only in degree as it descends from the Eu-ropean to the Indian. The colored men are for the most part compelled by law to wear their shirta outside their trowsers.

TOBACCOMANUFACTOBT. 68

These latter are often made of colored silk, while the shirt is com-posed of a transpaient &bric called hus^ for which Manilla is cel-ebrated, woven from the fibre of the banana {Afusa iextUi$\ upon which gaj patterns are generally worked. The women wear jaekets of this material, which cover, but do not conceal, their figure to the waist, round which the saya or petticoat is bound. The coloring is always bright, and over it is sometimes worn, out of doors, a sort of wrapper, reaching from the waist to the knee, called a a^>tz, and consisting'of dark blue silk or cotton cloth. This is, however, more particularly an article of dress appertain-ing to the Chinese half-breeds as distinct from the Spanish. The fihppers are an impossible-looking chaussurt^ the toes only being covered with cloth, gayly embroidered in gold and silver, but so scanty in quantity that it does not cover the little toe, which, projecting at the side, acts as a sort of movable clasp to keep on the slipper. For the proper performance of this fimction it must require a qiecial education, and these slippers are consequently by no means a useful article of dress to present to any one out of Manilla. To all this gay coloring is contrasted the sober costume of the priests, whose numbers and bearing are significant of the extent of that ecclesiastical influence which is dominant in the Philippines.

The tobaooo-manufactory is situated in a square, and, as we en-tered the archway, our ears were saluted with a cUn worthy of a Manchester cotton-mill. We go up stairs under the guidance of a doerone told off to us, and walk through endless rooms full of women. The process of cigar-making, as practiced here, is sim-ple, monotonous, and noisy. On each side of a passage or aisle leading down the centre of the long rooms are tables raised about a fix>t from the ground, round each of which are squatted twelve or fourteen women, who keep up an incessant chattering, ham-mering, and giggling. Each woman is provided with a mallet, with which she beats out the leaf preparatory to rolling within it a mall handful of the broken tobacco, which she takes from a heap piled along the whole length of the table. Her fingers and aaUet seem to move as mechanically as her tongue ; but the com-hinasion of noises is deafening, and we are content to ask very few questions on the spot, and to get our information afterward.

I was surprised at the proportion of Havana-shaped cigars which being manufiictured. Formerly these were entirely reserved

04 THE PRICE OF TOBACCX).— A FINA SHOF.

for local consmnptioiu The present governor has, however, al-lowed them to come into competition in the markets of the world with the Havanas; and, whatever may be their success in that respect, they at all events bid fair to drive the old cheroot shape out of the market The best tobacco is reserved for them, and more care is taken in their manu&cture. They are, in conse-quence, very highly priced — ^the No. 1, Imperiales, a gigantic ci-gar, being thirty dollars a thousand ; while the No. 2, Oortado, an ordinary-sized cheroot, is only eight The Imperiales contain no broken tobacco, but consist simply of one leaf rolled into a cigar. As tobacco is a government monopoly, the prices are all fixed ar-bitrarily, and every body runs the same risk in making purchases. There is only one quality of each size, whether Havana or Man-illa shaped ; but the laiger sizes may be said, as a rule, to be com-posed of the best description of tobacco. A certain amount of tobacco is served out to each table, out of which a given quantity of cigars are to be made. By these means a uniform size in the cigar is secured, and a check upon the consumption of tobacco imposed. Each woman is paid according to the quantity of cigars she makes; their earnings vary &om six to ten dollars a month. There is a popular fiJlacy very common in England that cheroots contain opium. The value of the latter drug is quite a sufficient proof that they would not pay at their present price were that the case. I could scarcely credit, until I saw the returns, the &ct that the consumption of tobacco in the Philippines themselves is about five times as great as the entire amount exported to foreign mark* ets. The whole population, of both sexes and all ages, certainly appear to be constantly emitting clouds of tobacco-smoke, but their numbers scarcely seem to warrant this proportion of the en-tire consumption.

One of the most beautiful fabrics of Manilla, and for which it is justly celebrated, is the Pifia cloth^ woven from the fibre of the pine-apple. It is only used in the dress of the wealthy, being too costly for common use. Our curiosity on the subject of tobaooo satisfied, we next proceeded, in search of some good specimens of Pifia manufiacture, to the house of an old lady celebrated for her varied assortment of this fabric. To my surprise, we were usher-ed through an imposing gateway into the court-yard of a no less imposing mansioru A handsome carriage, decorated with armori-al bearings, was standing here, the property of the lady of the

SHOFFOrO AT MANILLA.— INDOLXNCB OF THE ICESTIZOEa 66

lioaaei Aiwiilmg tbe maaBiTd staircasei we were shown into a well-fimiished dimwing-room, ornamented with pictures, flower-stands of Bohemian glass, minors, and other articles of taste or vino. The presiding goddess of so mnch finery stood in the centre of it all, smoking a giant cigar, and looking like a retired old sick-niiiae, with nothing on bnt a jacket of more than nsoaUj tm^Mreot textoie, a dir^ petticoat, and her bare feet thmst into frded slippersL I coold scarcely persuade myself that so untidy an old fiemale was the proprietress of the handsome carriage, and of the ezpensiTe-looking establishment to which it belonged. ELer daog^teri a young lady of some attractions, was sitting, sim-tlailj attired, in the next room, embroidering Pifia pocket-hand* kerdueb.

The Pifia is more curious than useful to people who are in the habit of wearing something thicker than gauze ; and accordingly a small outlay was sufficient to satisfy our wants, if not those of the old lady, who hospitably plied us with cigars while she spread bdbre us articles of every variety and value* An elaborately emfaioidered Pifia dress is often priced at £800 and upward.

Shopping at ManilU is an nnsatiafiictory pursuit The princi-pal streets are the Esoolta and Bosario ; but all the best shops are kqit by Chinamen, who fairly beat the mestizoes out of the field as tiadera. The superior industry, intelligence, and economical habits of the pure Chinaman give him an immense advantage orer the mestizo. The former despises feast-days, and cares little far ftfnn^} comfort; he lives in the little shop which contains his stock in trade, and keeps his eyes open. The mestizo spends half his existence in a gala dress, does not condescend to live in his sb<^ and has no business habits when he is there. In the middle of the day he is generally asleep, and is excessively disgust-ed at being roused to serve a customer. It is not at all an un-common thing to see a man coiled up snoring in one comer of his ifaophand a mestizo girl stretched luxuriously at full length upon the counter, her beautiful black hair thrown back fh>m her fiuse, Uhag in wavy massive folds to the ground, and her bosom heav-uig so aofUy and regularly with the long-drawn breath of a pro-fuond slumber, that, rather than do violence to his aesthetic na-ture by disturbing sleeping beauty, the purchaser moves gently on to tbe next shop, and finds a grinning Chinaman^ with his cfGs so destitute of lids that he looks as if he could not wink,

E

QQ INDUSTRY OF THE CHINESB POFULATIOK.

much less sleep, but which sparkle with intelligence and cupidity, who is imbued with the firm determination, if he does not possess in his shop the article which you do want, to force you to buy from him something you do not

Manilla, like Singapore, owes a great part of its prosperity to the Chinese portion of the population ; and, in our management of this race in our own possessions, it might not be unprofitable to investigate the expediency of some of those measures which other nations, inferior to us in the art of colonization as a rule, have found it necessary to employ. All the Chinese arriving at Manilla are registered and taxed according to their occupations. They are divided into four classes — ^merchants, shopkeepers, arti-sans, and day-laborers. The entire Chinese population has been estimated as high as 80,000, but, according to a Spanish author, writing in 1842, "the number actually enrolled does not exceed 6000, and their capitation-tax is above 100,000 dollars a year, while ,that of all the native inhabitants, exceeding 8,000,000, does not equal eight times that amount" This taxation is manifestly excessive, and no good object could be obtained by drawing any distinction in our own possessions between the Chinese and the British subject ; but the election of a papitan by themselves, whose office it is to collect the tribute, and arrange all internal di£Eer-ences, and who is, to a certain extent, responsible for the good conduct of his countrymen, is an excellent arrangement At the same time that the capitan is elected, his lieutenant and head-con-stable are also chosen by the Chinese. Were we to establish a good system of responsible government among our Chinese popu-lations, and employ a sufficient staif of interpreters, we should be relieved from apprehension on their account, and they fiom the dread of the consequences with which we are apt to visit them under the influence of that apprehension.

In all other respects, there is no comparison between the ad-vantages held out to emigrants firom the Celestial Empire by our possessions — ^with the exception of Australia — and those of other countries. Not only are they exempt firom a poll-tax, but the rate of wage is higher than either in the Philippines or Java ; while the fii^eedom from commercial restrictions, and the bustling activity of an energetic Anglo-Saxon community, are congenial to that spirit of commercial enterprise which assimilates the Chinese to ourselvee^ and impels them instuictively to migrate to those lo-

CHINESE EHIGRATION : ITS ADVANTAGES. 67

Cftlities best adapted to its development This is moot satisfiMrtori-ly proved by the actaal proportion which the Chinese bear to the whole population of different European settlements, and which Mr. Crawfiird computes as follows : " In Java the Chinese form the one hundredth part, and in the Philippines about the four hundredth part of the population. In the British possessions col-lectively the Chinese constitute about one third of ^e inhabitants, and in Singapore two thirds."

It would be a wise policy in us to encourage, to a greater ex-tent than we do, Chinese emigration to other settlements besides tbooe to which th^ have already found their way. Not only ahonld we be able to retain Labuan as a colony from which we could exenaae an important influence over Borneo, teeming with valuable productions, but we could make the little island itself profitable by the introduction of Chinese labor for the develop-ment of its mineral resources. It is not, however, merely in the settlements of the Malay archipelago to which Chinese em-igTition might be directed and encouraged by government with great advantage, but to many tropical colonies in other parts of the world, such as British Guiana, where there is an enormous capacity of production coupled with an utter inadequacy of mean& We must be careful of judging of the results of Chinese immigra-tion by the experiences of California, Australia, or any other col-ony where peculiar conditions, resulting from gold discoveries, exist) and where the climate admits of competition by whites. It is SB undesirable that such a competition should be established in those countries adapted for European out-ofdoor labor, as that oiben should be deprived of the benefits of any such labor at all because the climate is fiital to the white man.

Ab we proposed a short trip into the interior, for which pass-ports were necessary, we went to Government House to obtain them, and, at the same time, to pay a visit to the captain general. Two bridges, one of which is suspension, and the other a respect-able stmctuTC often arches, span die Pasig, and connect the suburb with the fortified town. This suburb, or rather extramural city, contains a population of nearly 200,000 souls; the walled city con-tains about 10.000 people, almost entirely pure white, and consists of eight narrow streets running at right angles to one another, aristocratic and dull, and a square or plaza. In this the govem-Vs residence is situated, and from the windows at the back a mag-

QQ THE CAPTAIN GENERAL OF THE PHUiIPPINBS.

nificent view of the harbor is obtained The present governor is the most popular and enlightened man that has filled the offioe since Don Pascual Enrile, celebrated for having opened internal communication, and removed those restrictions on colonial ship-ping with which, with their usual in&tuated policy, the Spanish government retarded the prosperity of one of its most valuable possessions. The advanced views of his predecessor have in many instances been improved upon and carried out by the pres-ent governor, who was peculiarly fitted for his post by the oppor-tunities which were afforded him, during the years he spent in political exile at Manilla, of making himself acquainted with the wants of the colony at a time when he little thought he would ever be called on to govern it It is fidr to him to say that it does not follow that, because a man has been a dq>oriado to Man-illa, he should have been guilty of any act of treason against the eidsting govenmient It is simply the result of an electioneering '^ dodge," not unlike some that have been recently practiced in Kansas. The government, when it appeals to the country, begins by exiling a large number of the prMtHe hostile voters — an ef-fectual mode of counteracting the effects of the ballot, which might be suggested for adoption by ourselves should that measure ever be introduced.

The captain general had himself visited Calcutta, and was deep-ly interested in the intelligence which we gave him of the prog-ress and prospects of the mutiny. In the evening we took a drive on the Galzada or pubUc promenade. Unfortunately, it was too late for us to see as much as we wished of the fidr or colored oc-cupants of the numerous carriages, which form two long lines throughout the whole length of the drive, and which are kept upon their proper sides by mounted policemen stationed at inter-vals along the road, as solemn and pompous, if not so gorgeous, as the sentries at the Horse-Guards.

At Manilla, as in other Soman Catholic countries, the gayest day next to a feast-day is Sunday. It so happened that the Sun-day we were there was also a saint's day— all the church-going taking place in the morning, and the dancing in the evening. The former begins almost with the day ; and the ceremony of a military mass which we attended involved an effort of early ris-ing. The Cathedral was undergoing repairs, and the churches we entered were none of them remarkable specimens of ecclesiastical

WLITART MASS. 69

I • . fc' • I I 4 .

or ornament The one in which military mass was held was poorly attended. When we first went in, a few pretty fcmale figores^ with dark complexions, lustrous eyes, and graceful maatillaa &lling over their shoulders, dotted about in kneeling attitndew^ and old men mumbling in comers and crossing them-mlfm, composed the whole congr^ation. Then the dang of maitial music outside was followed by the entry of two or three legimaiitB, the men uncovered, with their shakoes swinging be-tween thor shouldera. Six soldiers with drawn swords occupied the altar platform, and, as the priests entered, these presented annsi and the band opened the prcxseedings with a very pretty waltz. Indeed, the whole service, fix)m beginning to end, was musical, the officiating priest, a very black man, confining himself to pantomime, and the band varying time according to his ges-tareSb When he elevated the host they went down on their knees, and played an air very much resembling a polka, crossing themaelveB with great rapidity in time to the music. Then came tones which the uninitiated might have supposed were galops or quadiilleSb The whole performance was entirely devoid of any sacred chancter, and only lasted about half an hour. The sol-diem were a handsome, well set*up body of men, in a neat white uniform, and red fiicings turned up with black. The officel^ have nearly all come out from Spain, as the service is a &vorite one, and well paid. The Spanish anny in the Philippines is maintain-ed at about 12,000 strong. The last time they were employed on active service was in 1851, when a force of 4000 men was sent to diastise the Sooloo rajah : this they accomplished satisfactorily, • with a kas of about 100 men. A contingent of 8000 men has recently been engaged, in alliance with the French forces in Co-chin China, in an unsuccessful attempt to reduce the king of that ooontiy to submission.

We were rendered independent of any of the steamers which. decked with flags, were carrying crowds of gayly-dresscd pleas-me^seekers to the festa at Cavity as the Kestrel (Lieut Bason)/ which had put into Manilla for repairs, carried us comfortably across the harbor in two hours. At Cavitd are situated the gov-erament docks; and the Spanish commodore came off to inspect the marvelous little craft which had just weathered the dangers of a passage round the Cape, and the minute dimensions of which

* TldigBUi«joaagoatoerwatkiUediatlMreoeiilatuck«pootlMPeihoForti.

70 A BELIGIOUS PROCESSION.

Struck him with astonishment His residence was in the dock, through which we walked on our way to the town. It is small, and of no great pretensions to strength. Cavit^ contains about 15,000 inhabitants ; and, as evening closed in, the main street pre-sented a gay and brilliant aspect The houses, although two-sto-ried, were small and insignificant, but countless lights twinkled in every window, and drapery of gorgeous colors hung fix)m the balconies, and, leaning over them, signoritas smoking cigarettes laughingly contemplated the crowd below, as it surged to and fix> in anxious anticipation of the grand spedack.

A general explosion of rockets, and the martial strains of a military band announced the start of the procession. Then came the usual struggle for places and loss of pocket-handkerchie& ; and through a lane in the crowd passed, first, the band, then a gentleman in black with a white tie, who looked like a master of ceremonies, and superintended the distribution of tapers to such of the crowd as were disposed to form part of the procession. These amateur taper-bearers formed two rows, and between them, in double file, toddled, rather than walked, a number of miniature nuns and monks, in ftdl religious costume, the oldest of whom might have attained the age of five or six. The shaved crowns and sandaled feet of the tiny monks, as they led by the hand with great dignity and solemnity their still smsdler sisters, produced a very grotesque effect, which was heightened, if possible, by the miscellaneous costume of a crowd of children that followed, in the most extravagant fancy dresses. Then came the Virgin, carried by men screened by drapery, on a wooden stage, a perfect mass of tinsel and wax-lights, followed by priests, while two or three regiments, with fixed bayonets, brought up the rear. As soon as this display is over, the revels of the night fiairly begin. The ta-per-bearers, having escorted the Virgin home, plunge wildly into the delights of fandangoes and cachuchas ; every house is open to the stranger, if he likes to take part in the amusement of the evening, and in almost every one dancing and gambling are car^ ried on till the morning of the foUowing day, which, not being dedicated to any saint, is dedicated to a rest from the fatigues of the debauchery committed on the one that is.

As we had determined to start the same night for the interior, we were not tempted to prolong our stay at Cavity. Indeed, hav-ing in the most orthodox way gone through the whole services

EXCUBSION TO THE LAQO D£ BAI.— LOS BANOS. 71

*jf the dajf we thought we might diBpenae with the aennon ; and aX mklni^t^ instead of dancing fiuidangoes, we were snugly en-tfOOQoed at the bottom of a canoe upon the Biver Pasig, lulled to iieep bj the measured stroke of our boatmen's paddles, as they forced the little craft rapidly up stream. We were accompanied

on oar expedition by Mr. and Mrs. O j to whose hospitality we

were indebted during our stay at Manilla. Daylight found us in the Lago de Bai, under the lee of the island of Talim. Its high Tolcanic hills were wooded to the summit, and indented with fhanning little bays, fring^ with drooping bamboos. The lake is aomewhat in the shape of a horse's hoof — a peninsula, at the end of which is the island of Talim, forming the frog. From here we stretched across to the southern shore, the high and pre* cipiioiis mountains of which looked comparatively near, but to the westward the waters of the lake formed the horizon. The Lego de Bai is the largest sheet of fresh water as yet discovered in the Eastern archipelago, being twenty-eight miles in length by twenty-two in breadth.

Our destination, which we reached in time for a late break&st, IS oekbrated for some thermal springs, which, bubbling out of the groond almost at the water's c^lge, enable the weary traveler to refresh himaeif with a warm bath, though, as the temperature is soflinmtly high to boil an egg in four minutes, he had better not make rash experiments. In consequence of these springs, which tt one time enjoyed some celebrity, the village is called Los Bafios. It oonsistB only of a few Indian huts, in one of which, elevat-ed on pOes, and surrounded by a crowd of admiring natives, we restoied exhausted nature preparatory to a trip to the island of Sooolme. Fortunately, I had not seen the narrative of that amusing, but most audacious romancer. La Oironidre, or our ap-petites might have been spoiled by the anticipation of the dangers to be encDontered. His evidently was. The Indians had told bim that the small lake in this islimd was infested with alligators, from whom — so great was their voracity — " escape in a canoe by rowing quickly was impossible." " There was much good sense," •ays La Ginmidre, " in what they said, but we were never deterred bv dangers or difficulties," etc. So he and his friend, Mr. Lindsay, teotnre on the hazardous experiment of going in a canoe on a lake where there are reported to be alligators. "We had not proceeded many yards ixx>m the bank when we all experienced

72 THE ROMANCE OF LA GHtONIEBE.— SOOOLME.

feelings of alarm, attributable, no doubt, to the expectation of dan-ger being immediate, as well as the aspect of the place which pre-sented itself to our view." Then comes a terrific charge of alli-gators— " the grand drama announced by the Indians is about to be realized," etc. — ^' when Lindsay, Tvnning aUriska^ fires his gun direct at the brute;" and so on, in a strain the accuracy of which may be judged of from the &ct that he estimates the Lake of Socolme as haying an elevation of 1500 feet^' above the Lago de Bai, when fifi»en feet is really the outside ; and says that it '' does not receive the rays of the sun except when that luminary is at its zenith ;" whereas, the banks in many parts being not above twenty feet high, and in only one place about 200, the lake, more-over, being at least two miles round, it rejoices to a very equi-table extent in the blessed rays of that " luminary." We trust, for the sake of La Oironidre's credit as a sportsman, that he dis-played as much courage with his rifle as he certainly has with his pen.

We paddled round the margin of the lake enchanted with its loveliness, sheltering ourselves firom the noon-day sun under the luxuriant vegetation which clothes its banks and droops into the water. Thousands of flying foxes had chosen for their retreat these leafy shades ; their unsightly bodies were concealed by their expansive wings, as, clinging by their feet, they hung in dark fes^ toons from the projecting branches. Disturbed by our i^proach, they flapped away over the lake, but we soon awoke its silent echoes with the reports of our guns, and two or three of these monstrous bats tumbled heavily into the water. If the alligators existed at all, they evidently had not recovered from the panic which must have been created by La Gironiftre's visit Not one ventured to show the tip of his nose above the water.

We were loth to leave this &iry-like scene, and, looking back upon it as we dragged our canoes over the narrow strip of land, were reminded rather of a diamond set in emeralds than of the crater of an extinct volcano. As it was, the attractions of the isl-and of Socolme had induced us to linger too long, for it was late ere we started on our return voyage, and a gale of wind had sprung up in the mean time of such violence that, to our dismay, the boatmen at first refused to venture on the traject An at-tempt which we insisted on their making was not encouraging; our slight canoe was no sooner exposed to the full force of the

8IOB1CT VOTAOB.--TBAI>B OF MANILUL 73

wind and mens tban she took in a sea which half filled and ven*

•

umsAj iqaei her, ao that we were compelled igncMninionaly to put back to a little bay, wheie a govenunent felucca was lying, with the padrone of which we hoped to come to tenxia. Unfortunatelv, tboQj^ aaioepliUe to the inflnenoeof doUara, hiamen were absent; ao^ aa the lady of oar party Was undaunted by our former ezpe-lienoe^ we determined to effect some impioyementB upon our own little eafty and tempt the waveain her once more. First we took off the TOo£f which shut down on her sides so closely as to give her the ominous appearance of a gigantic coffin, and rendered it eztremdy probable that she would serre us in that capsd^ in the ereat of an upeet Then we added to and strengthened our out-riggers, reefed our sail to its smallest dimensioDS, and once more pushed out into the lake. Throughout the twelve hours of a night that seemed interminable we battled with the waves; drenched to the ddn, and seated in the water at the bottom of the boat, we chiefly employed ourselves baling, the hats of the boatmen render-ing good service. Daylight found us hungiy and rheumatic, glid-ing down the rapid current of the Pasig ; but our condition rapidly improved under the genial influence of the morning sun, and an hour after our return to civilization we were so well satisfied with the adventorea of our trip that we forgot its discomforts.

The little that we saw of the interior of Luzon only made us regret the more that our limited time did not admit of a more nrtendcd trip. The island affords magnificent scenery to the tnvder in search of the picturesque, while its varied productions o&r a wide and interesdng field for observation. Government however, is chary of gratifying the curiosity of foreigners in this lespeet ; and the dis^icts of Cayagan and Qupan, celebrated for th^ extensive growth of tobacco, are not to be visited without Bane difficulty. Sugarcane is largely cultivated. The sugar, ho we wet, is only mannfactnred in small quantities at a time by the country people in a very primitive manner. It is remarkable that* in the whaesaoe of steam, it should form one of the largest ar^ lidea of export The markets to which it is almost exclusively sent are Ea^and and Australia. The United States, on the other hand, seem to monopolize the trade in hemp. The late Russian war had the effect of largely raising the vidue of this article in HantUa. Unmanuftctured hemp is burdened with an export iaty from which Manilla rope is free. In the Philippines, aa in

74 KETDSN TO CHINA.

all other colonies of Continental European powers, the develop-ment of the magnificent resources of the country is cramped by the perpetuation of a system based on principles of political econo-my exploded among ourselves, and which we must hope can aot long resist the pressure of the enlightened views and commercial progress of other countries.

Meantime our gun-boats have repaired the damages they have sustained during their long and hazardous voyage from England, and are again ready for sea; so we regretfully bid farewell to Manilla, and once more shape our course for the Celestial Empire, where events are in progress which will render our arrival there with one of these useful littie craft in tow doubly acceptable.

ATrafPT OF COUHT FOUTIATINE TO BEACH PEKIN. 75

CHAPTER 6.

CHAPTER VI,

of Coaol Poatialine to reicb Pekin. — LawImi Prooeedingi in the Canloii

r. — RiagvUr nfttire ProcUmatioiL — ^TIm Hall oi Peace and Patriotism. —

for War.^-The Ultimatnm. — Oocapation of Uonan. — ^Teh's Answer.

Bifuii of a CoBvenation between the Emperor Hien Fung and Ki Shnh-tian. —

F^hattaftfi on board the Fnrions.— Disapp^aranoe of the floating Population.—

Afpaci of the riter Face of Canton.^£xpix7 of the Delaj. — Anchorage at Dane's

.— ^Tcsper of the Inhabitants. — Delaf of the Bombardment.

The pnodpal event which had occtiried at Hong Kong during <»ar abeence at Manilla was the departure of our conunander-in-chieC Geneial Ashbumham, for Calcutta, in the Ava, and the in-Ktallment of Lord Elgin in the hou^ vacated by him on shore. The iocieaamg coolness of the temperature rendered this change tloaUv enjoyable. Early in November the American minister, Mr. Boed, arrived in a frigate of gigantic proportions, and the RnnMsn minister, Count Poutiatine, in a paddle-wheel steamer of TciT minute dimensions. The latter had made the journey over-land from St Peteisbuig to the Amoor, not, however, without baring applied for admission to Pekin by way of Kiahkta. On this being refused, he proceeded, on his own responsibility, to the mouth of the Peiho, where he was infonned that no communica-tkn with the court of Pekin could be made on his behalf from that point It was, however, afler some time, conceded to him thai a letter would be forwarded to Pekin, but that, if he wanted a irplv, be must return to Kiahkta and wait there. Count Pou* tiatine refused to accede to these terms, and, in consequence, it tns ultimately arranged that an answer should be sent to him at the moatfa of the Peiho, whither he would return to receive it When at last, after an interval of some weeks, Count Poutiatine more appeared at the mouth of the Peiho, he received lus rr, which consisted of a refusal to see him at Pekin, with an alhnation that under no circumstances could the performance of ** Kotow" be dispensed with. The result of his experience in &ct been to confirm the opinion entertained by Lord Elgin the commencement, that nothing could be done with the g9v«nuiient of China except at the Peiho, and then only when a

76 ONGULAB NATIVE PROCLAMATION.

force sufficient to strike terror into the capital, and of a descrip* tion calculated to navigate the shallow waters that lead to it, should be assembled there, to give irresistible force to the argu-ments of diplomacy.

About this time there occurred a curious illustration of the vio-lent character of the more lawless portion of the population in-habiting the creeks and islands of the Canton Biver, as well as of their ingenuity in turning to good account the troubles in which their country was involved. The incident was also instructive, as tending to show how many and serious were the evils to which might be exposed the unfortunate well-disposed inhabitants, who found in our cruisers but a poor substitute for the mandarin and war junks which had formerly protected them, and which we had scared away. A petition was sent down to Lord Elgin, incloang a copy of a notice stated to have been widely circulated among the people, to the following effect : " That, the British navy being now stationed from Shakok at the Bogue, up to Shekmun, it is hereby decreed that, in return, for the protection the British ves-sels afford to the population against lawless persons who would otherwise cut grain without authority, 2 mace per acre (Chinese) shall be paid into the British office, called the Ning-i-Tong (Hall of Peace and Patriotism), near Nei-Tong ; to which all agricultur-ists are directed to repair on the 80th or Slst of October, or 1st of November, with the money. On payment of this, they will re-ceive a license to cut grain. If any person attempt to cut or carrj-grain without license, the vessels of the Ning-i-Tong of Great Britain will bring him to the said hall, with his vessels, which will be confiscated." Three regulations were appended to the above notice : " 1. For every acre registered at the Hall of Great Britain, at Nei-Tong, license to reap shall be issued. 2. In any case where the brethren recognize the seal to be the seal of tho hall, they will immediately release the person whom they may have detained 8. Rioe-jimks, from any village or fort whatsoever, must give notice at the hall, where their papers or licenses will be vis^ for the prevention of delays." Mr. Wade, who trans-lated the above, was requested by Lord Elgin to put himself at once into communication with the admiral, for the purpose of dis-covering, if possible, this Hall of British Peacemakers and Patriots, and visit with the punishment they deserved those who had foul-ly wronged, if not our fair name, at least their own unfortunate

FBEPikBATIONS TOR WAB. 77

-ymtrymoL Mr. Wade proceeded with a fbioe to a building in-•iicttled by some ooontiy people as the hall in question, where he f*>a]id six penoDS in chainsi and some papers, one of which stated thai ordeiB had been received from the captain of the ship of En-cliah btfbarians to look after the grain, and menacing any of the bivthnan who should presome to cut grain on their own account It was found difficult to bring home the charge to any of the per-sona in the neighborhood ; a comprador, however (or man whose 'iQBDeaa it was to supply one of her miyesty's ships in the river ▼ith pftmakmsX was recognized and taken into custody in conse--^ucDoe^ There is probably no other countxy in the world but China where an organization upon so laige a scale could have been fooiied which would use for a protection the dreaded name • if tta conntiy's enemy, display for its banners the symbols of |ieaoe and patriotism, and have for its object the plunder and icpoliaooo of its neighbors.

Though there may be an absence of patriotism generally in «7hiiia, patriots can dways be found here by paying for them, as in other countries. Thus we discovered a spy located at Hong Koiig« whoae papers we seized, and who kept a daily record of rrents there, and, at some risk to himself, sent Howqua full in-fonaatioii of all th^ plans and rumors of plans current in Hong Emg as to our movements^ Nothing was too trivial for his re* icni the number of ships in harbor — ^the daily exercise of troops — Lonl Elgin's personal appearance and reputed character — ^the <j3eo% of oar losses in IndLi, and the causes of the mutiny, all were minutely but frequently erroneously recorded, and forward* "d by Howqua to YeL Some of the indbrmation was furnished ^ y Americans resident at Hong Kong, and some by Chinese in ' or cm|Joy.

Meanwhile General Straubenzee had succeeded General Ash* '"oniham in the oommand-in*chief^ and the prospect of active serv* 9ce seemed to infuse new life and energy into the feeble and warned garrison of Hong Kong. The one weak regiment of vhkh it oonasted was perpetually being inspected and reviewed, sad ezerased in camping and in rifle practice. The daily boom* :ag of artillery practice, added to the constant thundering of sa-'ales from the diips, as admirals or plenipotentiaries paid or re* 'cnred visila of ceremony, hcgan to prepare the Chines mind at Qcog Kong for something more serious than the *' talkee pigeon**

/

78 THE ULTIMATUM.— ITEH'S ANSWER.

to which for so many years they had been accustomed. We were now only waiting for the last detachment of marines ; their arrival early in December rendered ferther delay unnecessary; and on the 10th of that month, Mr. Wade, aocompamed by Mr. Marques, proceeded with a flag of truce to Canton, and delivered the ultimata of the French and English plenipotentiaries to a sub-ordinate officer sent by Yeh to receivfe it

In the communication which the British minister addressed to the imperial commissioner upon this occasion, he alluded to the exceptional attitude of hostility and dislike which had always been maintained by the authorities and people of Canton in their intercourse with foreigners, as cotiapared with the other ports; to their determined refusal to fuli^ treaty-rights ; to the constant quarrels which had arisen out of this unsatisfisustory state of things ; and to the barbarous way in which hostilities on the last occasion had been carried on by the Cantonese. As a proof that these complaints were not ill founded, or confined to British subjects alone, his excellency adverted to the recent capture of the Barrier Forts which had been forced upon the Americans, and to the fact that the French were prepared to join us in the determination to procure reparation for past, and security against future wrongs.

The execution of treaty-engagements, and compensation for losses sustained by British subjects, were the only demands the fulfillment of which was required firom the imperial commission-er, and a ddai fatal of two days, to date from the 12th instant, was accorded : during this period, the island of Honan was to be occu-pied as a material guarantee, and at its expiry, in the event of non-compliance, Canton was to be taken. In consequence of the above intimation, Honan was successfully occupied on the 15th instant by 400 British marines and 150 French blue-jackets, no attempt at resistance having been made on the part of the inhab-itants.

On the following day Yeh's answer reached Hong Kong. That fimctionaiy denied that there was any difference in their disposi-tion toward foreigners between the inhabitants of Canton and those of the other ports — denied that any article existed in any treaty relative to the opening of Canton ; though the question had been twice raised, he declared it to have been finally aban-doned ; then put in a plea in traverse to the effect that no treaty could force the people of Canton to do what they did not like ;

THE EMPEBOB HIEN FUNO AND EI SHUH-TSAN. 79

and reoommeiided Lord Elgin to adopt the policy pursued by Sir George Bonham, which might, as in his case, procure him the Older of the Bath. Yeh went on to recite the want of success which had attended the efforts of Sir George Bonham and Sir , John Bowling to open a more direct communication with the capital as an instance of the impossibility of opposing the Emper-or's wilL He then discussed the merits of the " Arrow case,'^ waned the embassador against the occupation of Honan as being hkely to lead to hostilities, and concluded by assuring his excel-leney that all existing difficulties might be satisfactorily arranged through the medium of a little amicable correspondence.

The ibUowing report of a conversation between his Celestial Mqcatj and an ex-judge of the Quang-tung province will throw some light upon the policy of the emperor and his commissioner at Canum upon the extent of their acquaintance with barbarian af&in^ and upon the sources fiom whence they derived their in-fimnalioiL This most interesting and curious document was amoiig the pliers found in Yeh's yamun subsequently to his CKpOaatj and it has sbce been translated by Mr. Wade :

Brpori of a Qmversatian beticeen the Emperor Ilien Fung and Ki Shuh'tsan^ ex-Judge of Kwang4ung^ in 1851.

[He fidlowing is translated from a memorandum forwarded to Teh by a late judge of Kwang-tung, named Ei Shuh-tsan, of his ooDvenation with the Emperor Hien Fung, at the audience grant-ed him, aooofding to custonii on his return to Pekin at the end of hie term of service.

In hia "^ Chinese and their Rebellions" (page 128 to 136), Mr. Tbooias Ifeadows gives a similar conversation between the late cDparar and Pih-kwei, the present governor of Kwang-tung, and then judge of the province. This took place in 1849, and it is mnarkable that, toward the close of that audience, the late emper* or asks Pih-kwei if he is acquainted with the newly-appointed judge, Ki Shuh-taan, and volunteers a very favorable opinion of kirn as an honest and unaffected man. A great deal of his correspondence with Yeh was found in the of the latter, among the rest the memorandum here trans-and with it a note explaining that, besides the matter to rkieh it relates, the emperor had put questions regarding the con* of the literati of the district of Tung-kwan, who had lately

80 BBPOBT OF CONVERSATION BETWEEN THE

manifested their diaflatisfaction with the authorities by refusing to attend the examinations for degree, regarding the alleged miscon-duct of a military officer who had been very backward against some Kwang-tung outlaws; and, lastly, regarding the publication of the " Sing-li Tsing-i," the " Essence of Moral Philosophy," and of another work, reprints of which had been ordered by his maj-esty, at the suggestion of a high official, for the regeneration of the age.

Ei Shuh-tsan was younger brother of Ei Tsiun-tsan, who died not long since, one of the four principal Secretaries of State. — T. P. W.]

{Tramhiion^

At my audience his majesty questioned me very particularly respecting my official career, my settlement, my family, and my life before and after I came to be employed. I submit no copy of these questions to your excellency, but confine myself to lay-ing before you those which his majesty condescended to ask con-cerning Kwang-tung affidrs. His majesty asked,

Q. Are the English barbarians quiet at the present time, or the reverse?

A. They are so &r quiet

Q. Will no trouble be caused by their trade at some future period?

A. In the nature of barbarians there is much to suspect A communication received from them two or three months ago raised several questions in language of a menacing character.* Seu and Yeh perfectly understand their trickiness, and as it is only by being resolute and positive that they can deal with them, they employ no word in their replies either more or less than is suffi-cient fully to meetf what is said by the barbarians, and thus they are left without any thing to rejoin.

Q. Do you know what they wrote about?

A. In their administration of barbarian affidrs Seu and Yeh hold it important to be secret As governor general and gover-nor they consult each other in confidence on all replies to be written (to barbarian letters). Neither your majesty's servant,

* QnestioDB they had no right to raise; fit., pat forth shoots not from the joint : a figure from the hamboo-tree. t To meet, to oontrorert, or to reprove.

EMPEBOB HIEN FUNG AlO) KI SHUH-TSAN. 31

nor bis feUow-commissioners, nor the intendants, although resid-ing in the aame^city (as their excellencies), are able to learn any thing beforehand If, as is sometimes the case, reference has to he made to Pih-kwei, the Commissioner of Finance, the reply drmfted by him has again to be considered and approved by tbtm ; and on such occasions, when the question has been dis-posed oC, Sett and Yeh are sure to communicate it to your serv* anty and to the rest as well. In former times, when barbarian a&irs were in process of administration, news has reached bar-barian quarters even before the event ; but, nowadays, not even thoae who are constantly about Seu and Yeh can obtain informa-tion of the measures they are considering, and so the barbarians can aaoertain nothing; while we, on the other hand, are accurately informed of all that affects their countries. Q. How are you informed of what passes in their countries? A. In foreign parts (/tV., in the outer seas) there are newspa-pers. In these every thing that concerns any nation is minutely reoopded, and these we have it in our power to procure. And as the barbarians can not dispense with our people in the work of interpretation, Seu and Yeh manage to make their employes fur-nkh them privately every month with all particulars. We are thus enabled to know every thing that concerns them.

Q. How is it that persons in barbarian employ will, notwith* atuiding, furnish us with intelligence ?

A. It merely costs a few hundred dollars more a year to be-rewards upon them. For these they are well pleased to US. Then, again, if the news received from any one quar-ter appears unsatisfactory, there is more sent in from other quai^ ten, and if the reports from different quarters agree, the informa-tion is of coarse entitled to full credit

Q. Are their newspapers in their barbarian character or in our Chinese character?

A. They are translations into Chinese.*

Q. Have you seen those papers?

A. In the campaign in Tsing-yuen last*winter Yehf received rhich he gave me to look at

Q. What did they say?

Ii, tk» papen he htm ieeo, ■• wfll ftppear directlj. * Ttk «M tiMn Governor of Kwrnag-umg, and wai abienl from CaalOB km

to pot dowa oatUwB or rebdb In IUbs-tmb tad Niag^eli.

F

82 HEPOBT OF CONVERSATION BETWEEN THE

A. Your servant remembers one circumstance. The English were at war with Bengal.* A Bengal man-of-war wanted to pass through English territoiy to attack {lit, trouble, have a row with) some other nation ; the English authoritiesf refused her a pas-sage. Both sides opened a fire, in which an English ship was sunk, and a large number of the managing heads (directors) kill-ed. The sovereign of their state assembled the chief persons {Ul^ the head eyes) in the chamber where business is discussed {sc,, the House of Parliament). It was there proposed (by some) to speak reason to (or argue the point with) Bengal, but by others to raise a force and take satisfaction. Your servant has also been told by Yeh that> in the different letters which have come from the sovereign of the state to Bonham, he has always been directed to trade with China in a friendly spirit, and not to be troublesome (or meddlesome). It is also said that, in reward for his adminis-tration of commercial intercourse, Bonham was presented by the sovereign of the state with a decoration called " 0-ta-p4" (Order of the Bath), a thing somewhat of the same sort as the ancient red gold-fish purse.:^ Bonham is well pleased with this. He pa-rades it with pride; it wiU prevent him from making any more difficulties.

Q. How did the barbarians put their alleged grievances in the letter received from them ?

A. When your servant returned to Canton from the Tsing-yuen campaign to lay down his office, he was told by Sen and Yeh that in the third moon Bonham§ had written to say that^ as there was no great market for goods at two of the five ports, namely, in Cheh-kiang and Fuh-kien, he wanted to exchange the two ports in question for two others. Hang-chow and Soo-chow would both answer the purpose ; but, if this could not be, Chin-kiang would do. If Chin-kiang was also impossible, his ships of war would be obliged to go to Tien-tsin. Seu and Yeh replied that trade at the five ports having been long settled by treaty, no change could be made ; that, besides this, there was a fixed quan-tity of goods sold in China every year, the amount of which did

* Birmah is probablj meant

t LU,f those of the English barbapans who manage their affairs. This is Teij likely a translation of the term "Directors of the East India Company.'*

t An ornament or decoration of ancient date.

f He allodes to Sir George Bonham's letien, nnder instnictionB ftom the Foreign Office, written April 19, 1851, in which an ezchinge of ports was propoeed.

EUFEBOB HIEN FUNG ASJ> XI SHU&TSAK. 88

not dq)eiid <m the nmnber of ports, more or less. Take the tnde, they said, as it was before the five ports were opened, and has been since that event, and a calculation of the profits and loss-es of different parties will convince joa (of this). I^ with a good nndeiBtanding existing between oor two nations, your men-of-war attempt to go np to Tien-tsin, it is on yoor side that the quarrel will have been commenced ; no blame will attach to ns. Since this reply was sent, no letter has been received from them.

Q. Who has charge of barbarian affiurs besides Bonham?

A. Your servant has been told that Bonham is the govemor-ui<hief {liLy general head of the troops). Besides him there are Gutzlaff and Meadows. Gutzlaff was a practiced machinator when he was in China before.* This time, it is said, the roler of the state makes him confine his attention to commercial aflSiirs, and does not allow him to meddle (with politics).

Q. Are the other trading nations on good terms with the En-glish barbarians?

A. When the En^h barbarians gave trouble some time since («c 18S9-A2)y different nations assisted them. In the sequel it is aud the English barbarians became deeply indebted to other na-tions far shipping, the value of which they have been unable to leoover from them ; hence a good deal of misunderstandmg. The other tribes, are jealous, too, of the English barbarians for having carried their point {sc. with China); and so, although so far as out-waid appearances go, they trade together amicably, each party is, in bet, considering his own interests, and no cordial understand-ing is possible.

Q. Are the French quiet in Kwang-tung?

A. The French continue to give no trouble in Kwang-tung. But it is said that, with the exception of trade, what they most prise is the leaching of their doctrine.

Q. What people practice their doctrine in general? Are there lioeotialefl and graduates among them?

A. It is the common {liL^ the little people) who have no sense. AH that they hear of the question is that, by the practice of vir-tae, they may look for happiness,t and so the chances are that they

* Mr. GvtMHaJB, thm Chtnon Secretaiy, retimed to China in Jaiuuiy, 1851, and

t Ctmimeitakm doM sol teneh man to be Yiitnooi onlj in the hope of a reward. b m tarrmpi IMdWrn, and other lopentitMM, which eel the people propitiatlag

84 REPORT OF CONVERSATION BETWEEN THE

are mystified by them. Licentiates and graduates, inasmucli as they have rather more reading and acquaintance with philosophy, which makes them respect themselves, are, of course, not to be so deluded. Your servant has never heard that such persons had embraced their doctrine.

Q. Have there been any prosecutions for the profession of the doctrine in Kwang-tung as well ?*

A. Your servant has heard that some time ago there were some. There had been none from the time of his arrival last year until the fourth moon of the present, when Yeh wrote to him, confi-dentially, to the effect that, in the district of Ying-teh, li San-wan was reported to be playing the Great King of the Red men,f and that in his behalf certain recreant graduates, already degraded with vagabonds and others, had privily leagued themselves with yamun followers and soldiers, most of whom were professing the doctrine; and he desired your servant to send a subordinate to make secret investigation. Your servant did send a subordinate, who went through the district from village to village in disguise, making in-quiries for a month and more, but without any positive evidence of the fact. In the fifth moon your servant handed over his office to Tsui-tung, who again sent to make inquijy ih every part of the Ung-yuen and Kiuh-kiang districts. When your servant left Can-ton the officer sent had not returned, and he can not say what steps were subsequently taken.

Q. Is not the doctrine of the Lord of Heaven:^ also preached in Shan Si?

A. It is. When your servant was a licentiate, and superintend-ing instruction in the district of Hung-tung, in Ping-yang Fu, the outlaw, Tsdu Shun, and others, murdered the authorities in the city of Chau, and took the city itself. Hung-tung being but thirty li from Chau, we were on the alert night and day, and one day a confidential dispatch was received from the prefect of Ping-yang stating that in the street of the Shang-kia, in the city of Hung-tung, persons were propagating the doctrine, proselytizing, preach-

* His xn^jestj probably means '* as well" as in Kwang-si, altbongh little if any no> tioe had as yet been taken by the court of the troables there. The word I translate ** prosecotion" inclodes the infliction of the penalty.

t The rebels hare long been known as the "red head men," from their tntbans. The ''red** here nsed is, however, a different character.

t Here written *' Tien tsn kian,** doctrine of the Grandfather of Hearen. " Tien chn kiaa'* is evidently meant It is the style by which Christianity, as taught by the Bomanist missionaries, is known.

KMFEBOB KQCN FUNG AND KI 8HUH-TSAK. 86

ing observBnceSy and reciting canonical books ; and desiring that, as they were veiy probably in league with the bad characters of Chao, they should be secredy arrested. On this, the district magis-traie; in co-operation with the military, seized a Chih-li man sur-named Wang, who was preaching the doctrine there, and on whose penon was found a crucifix and some books of the doctrine of the Loid of Heaven, all in European characters {lit., characters of the Western seas). After this, all persons teaching or professing the doctrine were proceeded against according to law.

Q. And what did their books say?

A. Your servant saw that, besides others, there were some books oopied in our Chinese character, which were all about Jesus. Jesus was the person who was nailed on the cross. They purported to exhort people to be virtuous, to keep the heart good, and to do good actions. But there is great unanimity (or community of opinion) among the professors of the doctrine ; and though, under ordinary circumstances, while people of no intelligence do no more than observe fiists in the hope of obtaining happiness, it can do no great harm, iC, in the course of time, a single remarkable person «hocdd appear (among its professors), he would be almost certain to create trouble by inflaming and deluding (the public).

Q. Have you ever seen the barbarian buildings at Hong Kong ?

A. Your servant has not seen them. Those in the foreign fac-torieB on the Canton River he has seen, but he has never been into tliem.

Q. Have you seen any barbarians or barbarian ships ?

A. Your servant has seen a Floweiy Flag {sc. American) steam-er on the Canton River. There were barbarians on board the remet all dresaed in white, both men and women. But she was too &r off your servant's vessel for him to see them welL

Q. What nation is the Flowery Flag?

A. The American. The trade of the nation is very great ; it IS veiy rich and powerful, and yet not troublesome.

Q. How is it that America is rich and powerful, and yet not troaUesome?

A. As a general rule, the outer barbarians trade, because their Btfore is so covetous. If one of them breaks the peace (makes rouble), the prosperity of the other's trade is marred. Thus the Kagliflh aro at this moment beggared ;* but if they were to break

• Aad ihndht% he uMat, not likdy to go to war.

30 EBCBABKATION ON BOABD THE FUBIOUa

the peace, it is not on their own trade alone that injury would be inflicted : other nations are therefore certain to object to any out-rageous proceeding. on their part Were they to commence a disturbance, the Americans woiild certainly be the l3st to assist

them.

Q. Why would not the Americans assist them ?

A. Your servant has been told that the Americans have bus-iness relations of great importance with Wu Sung-yau (How-qua), formerly a hong merchant of Quang-tung ; indeed, that they have had money of Wu. Every movement of the English barbarians is certain to be privately communicated to the femily of Wu by the Americans, and Wu Sung-yau therefore makes his private re-port to Sen and Yeh, who take precautionary measures according-ly. Thus, last year, it was by a communication fix)m the Amer-icans that it was known that a man-of-war of the English bar-barians was coming to Tien-tsin (the Feiho). Not that this shows any sincere friendship for us on t^e part of the Americans : it was simply that their desire for gain is strong, and that they were a&aid that their trade would be disturbed by (the act of) ^e En-glish.*

In the absence of the Shannon, the Furious had been placed at Lord Elgin's disposal. Her very light draught of water rendered her a much more available ship for the purpose than the Shannon, while Captain Osbom spared no effort or personal sacrifice to fit her up as comfortably as possible for the accommodation of the mission. On the 17th we all embarked on board this good ship, which was destined to be our floatiiig home for the following eighteen months, and proceeded up the river to Blenheim Beach, where Baron Gros with the French fleet were already assembled. It appeared that the communication of Yeh to the French em-bassador was couched in the same stubborn and unyielding tone as that which he had addressed to Lord Elgin ; it was therefore determined, at a conference held on board the Audacieuse, that, in consequence of the unsatisfactory nature of the imperial oozn-missioner's replies, the matter should be placed in the hands of the naval and military authorities, but that a few days' grace

* The remainder of thiB most earioiu and interesting document is to be found ia the Bine Book. I hare been induced to make this extract here, because it illustrates in a remarkable manner the position we held in the ejes of the Chinese aathoritie8» and the yiews by which they were influenced in their dealings with us.

DiaAFPEABAKCE OF FLOATING POPULATION. 87

dioold be iDowed after the expiry of the ddodfaiai^ so as to aflford some opporUinity to the inhabitants of escaping.

I took advantage of the return of the admiral np the river to aooompanj him toHonan. Three miles after passmg Macao Fort, the fbnner limit of our explorations up the river, we rounded the point of Honan Island, and the scene became novel and interest-ing The moat striking feature in it was the entire absence on the part of the Chinese of any preparations to meet the attack which they most have been anticipating ; much leas did they offer any actire resistance to the occupation of the pack-houses in Ho-nan by our troopa, or molest the men-of-war which had been quiet-ly moored in fiont of the dty wall, within 150 yards of the guns upon it The instincts of self-preservation seemed to extend only to the floatiBg population, which had simultaneously disappeared on the arrival of the ships, and taken refuge in the numerous creeks with which the country is intersected Still, even these had not wholly vanished, and every now and then I was startled by seeing a two-storied mansion, Vrith verandas and a tiled roo^ which ^ypeared to be the last house of a street, deliberately de-tach itself from its neighbors, and float complacently down the stream to some secure aquatic retreat In this manner about half a millioD of people had moved to other waters ; how they man-ned to subsist when they got there remains a mystery. Probably they adopted the Peace and Patriotic line.

The point of Honan Island was admirably adapted to the pur-pose for which it was designed. The pack-houses were spacious obkmg buildings of solid construction, extending from the water's edge badL to a narrow lane. On the opposite side of this was a row of mean cottages, and in rear of them an extensive mud flat sefMrated our troops from a populous Chinese suburb. Many of thew pack-houses contained tea, sweetmeats, and other articles of cxporti which were being rapidly transported by Chinese coolies, under the superintendence of their owners. The ginger, cumquots, and other preserves, often, however, proved too strong a tempta-tion for our men, and their smeared &ces and sticky fingers gave indiqmtable evidence that they had made the jars pay toll as they passed In the evening, when the lofty warehouses were lit up by numerous large fires made upon the stone floor, round which were collected groups of hard-visaged men, the scene was animated sad picturesque, and would have been by no means of a consol*

88 ASPECT OF THE MVER FACE OF CANTON.

atoiy character to the Chinese authorities had they been there to witness it

On the foUowing day I visited a party of engineera engaged m erecting a mortar battery on the Dutch Folly, A large crowd were collected on the city bank of the river watching their oper-ations, and men were stationed as look-outs on stages erected for the purpose above the roo& of the houses. I ascended one of the trees on the little island, and looked over the yamun of the im-perial commissioner, not a hundred and fifty yards distant. Can-ton presents a most ragged appearance from this point : the river bank was strewn with the debris of houses, the result of the bom-bardment and fires of the previous year ; the site of the foreign factory was covered with heaps of rubbish ; half-demolished houses reared gaunt gables above their prostrate neighbors ; and miser-able hovels, which enterprising paupers had erected upon spots too exposed for the taste of the legitimate owner, only added to the dilapidated aspect of the town. Nevertheless, people passed briskly to and fro along the river margin, and were ferried across under the guns of our ships. I counted from one of these, the Cruiser, seven guns on the city wall, the muzzles of which were directed so as to cover her deck. In the afternoon Lord Elgm passed the town in a ^n-boat, and was as much struck by the desolate appearance of the city as by the apiathetic indifference of its inhabitants.

On the 21st, being the day before the expiry of the delay ac-corded in the ultimatum, a conference was held at Whampoa, by the plenipotentiaries and naval and military commanders-in-chief relative to the place of attack and the preliminary arrangements. On the 24th it was intimated to Yeh by the allied plenipoten-tiaries that, the delay having expired, they had called upon the naval and military commanders to act, and Lord Elgin stated that he "reserved to himself the right to make, on behalf of the British government, such additional demands as the altered condition of aSiEdrs, produced by the imperial commissioner's refusal to accede to terms of accommodation, may seem in his eyes to justify." At the same time Yeh also received a summons from the allied com-manders-in-chie^ stating that it was their intention to attack the town at the expiration of forty-eight hours if it was not surren-dered within that time. In a conmiunication addressed in reply to Lord Elgin's dispatch, the imperial .commissioner recurred to

ANCHORAGE AT DANE*S ISLAND. 89

tiie ** Arrow cue," and adverted at length to the points discussed in liiB fbnner letter, without manifesting the slightest alteration in his tone, or in the tenor of his sentiments general] j. Mean-while, ibr many days past, Mr. Parkes had been occupied in post-ing up proclamations, both at Honan and along the river hce of the city, at considemble personal risk, advising the inhabitants to leave the city during the approaching bombardment; but the veiy indiiTcrence with which they collected round the placards, and the contempt for them they occasionally manifested by tear-ing them down, only proved bow insensible they wero to the coming danger, and how hopeless it was to expect that these warnings would produce any effect

Up to this time we had been anchored at Whampoa, dose un-der Daiie*a Island, and our principal amusement was rambling over that picturesque spot ; though not above five miles in cir-comfisrence, the island was broken into hill, and dale, and fertile gleoa^ where a rural population lived peaceably amid all the troubles, and seemed utterly indifferent as to the fate of their provincial city. Indeed, many of them who had suffered severo-ly by the interruption of trade rather hoped for our success than otherwise ; and in one of the villages we met a man who had fiinnerly lived at Whampoa, and spoke a little English, who as-sured OS that he expressed a sentiment very common among his coantiymen when he said, '* You takee Canton chop chop, my no golchie money.'' He moreover told us that the army had not been paid for two months, and were very discontented, and that the antborities were really as well convinced as he was of our power to take the city. It was not, however, prudent to enter in-discriminately into villages. ' Although at Dane's Island we found the people well disposed, some members of the French embassy had not been so well received on Whampoa Island, and had not found it safe to extend their rambles very fiur from their ships ; onder all circumstances, it was desirable to take our evening walks aimed with revolvers.

We celebrated Christmas day by taking up the position which the Furious was destined to occupy during the remainder of our Hay in the river, with the view of getting as near Canton as her diught of water would admit Captain Osbom pushed her past the Barrier Forts until her nose was buried in the mud ; and from main«top a panoramic view was obtained of the city, and that

90 DELAY OF THE BOMBARDMENT.

portion of the surronading country which was shortly to be the scene of the military and naval operations. The Frimauguet, in which Baron Gros had taken up his temporary habitation, was anchored immediately astern of us. Though by the terms of the summons the bombardment ought to have commenced on the 26th, preparations were not sufficiently completed until the 28tL It will thus be seen that every opportunity was afforded to the authorities to yield, and to the people to provide for their own safety and the security of their property.

IiAliBINQ OF THE TB00P8. 91

CHAPTER 7.

CHAPTER Vn.

cf tke TVoopi^— AdTuoe on Lin'i Fort— Tnaclieroai llode of Wmifin. of Lin't Fort.— Attack of the BraTO.— Podtion for the Night— The k cootfaned.— Death of Captain Bate.— Skirmiih with Braves.— of tke WaUi of Canton.- Aqwct of the City.— Scene from Magaiine HUL CaiUnin of the City«— Captore of Goiigh*a Fort— Chtneie Looting-paitiei. — Taitar Gairina of Canton. — Condition of the pnUie BqiMingi. — ^Explosion of

Qk the 27th we weze able to perceive, finom our poet of obflerva-tioot l^jor Clifford, Qoartennaster General, landing with a party compoeed of two compames of the 69th, under Miyor Bannister, with the EngineerB, to prepare stages for the disembarkation of the troops and guns on the following morning. The outposts, which were kept by the 69th, and extended for about half a mile into the interior, were unmolested during the night In conse-quenoe of the shallowness of the water in the creek, the landing was fixed for nine o'clock on the following day, that being the earliest hoar at which the tide would serve for our gun-boats. Hie French, however, being in ships' boats, reached the landing-stages first, and requested Ceneral Straubenzee to allow them to disembark, to whidi he acceded. Before their disembarkation was completed, the rest of the 69th and artillery arrived in the gon-boatai and as soon as the 69th were landed, they and the French naTal brigade moved up toward lin's Fort, the original party under Major Bannister being in advance. As I observe in the Ffenefa papers that our gallant allies have claimed some credit tor being the first to land on the 28th, it is only fiiir to state the amooBt of risk they incurred in landing at a spot which had been in oar posse swan since the previous day.

From oar exalted position we had a splendid view of the com-menoement of the bombardment, which began shortly after day-light, and continued without intermission for twenty-seven hours. Ten o'clock was fixed as the hour for the landing of the blue-jackets of the Furious under Captain Osbom; and I was glad to srail myself^ by accompanying him, of the opportunity afforded of being an eye-witness, under the most fiivorable cipnumstances, cf all the operationa

92 TBEACHEBOUS MODE OF WABFABE.

Thanks to the exertions of the Sappers, a very fair road had "been made through the village near the landing-place. After passing through it, we met a wounded man of the 59th, and two wounded men of the French naval brigade — ^the first evidence of any active resistance having been offered to our progress. These men had been wounded in a slight skirmish which had resulted in the precipitate retreat of the Chinese. Meeting Loch, who was temporarily attached to the general's staff, in the village, I push-ed on with him as quickly as possible to the front. As we pro-ceeded, the country became very broken ; small hillocks, covered with graves, were surrounded by dry paddy-fields, by which their slopes were sometimes terraced. It was just the country for skirmishing in ; and, had not our enemy been contemptible, they might have harassed us seriously as we advanced. As it happen-ed, what little danger there was arose rather from a species of treachery than from open war&re. Captain Hackett of the 59th, while carrying a message, was suddenly surrounded in the village above mentioned, only a short time after we had left it, and his head was cut off within sight of his own men, who succeeded in killing one of the assassins, and capturing the other. This man was brought up to head-quarters, and hung the same evening. The man of the 69th we had met told us he had been shot fix^m behind a hedge after he had passed it. Indeed, it was very diffi-cult to know whom to regard as enemies, and whom to ignore as such. The hills were crowded with spectators watching our pro-ceedings ; yet it was only natural to suppose that every villager was an enemy at heart, though they did not venture on open war-&re, or seem to anticipate our considering them in the light of foes.

We found the front about a mile from the village, and, when we arrived, the French and English admirals and General Straa-benzee were seated at luncheon in a grave. The advance had pushed on so rapidly in pursuit of the retreating Chinese that there was a pause in the operations in consequence of the guns and ammunition not having come up. Moreover, we were cloae to Lin's Fort, the capture of which it had been arranged should complete the first day's operations. As the French had a light field-piece with them, it was agreed that they should open upon Lin's Fort from a hillock within easy range, while the 69th should occupy a joss-house to the right, from which they could reach the

CAFTURB OF LDTS FOBT.— ATTACK OF THE BRAVES. 93

embrisores of the fort with their Enfield rifles. To the joss-house,' which was deserted, we accordinglj repaired, and, screened by the wall, amoaed ourselves by trying to repress the harmless fire which the ganiaon kept up at intervals. When our field-piece came up, mud a shell burst near them, these brave defenders unhesitatingly evacuated the fort — ^a fact as patent to our allies as it was to our-aelres. When the banner of the last man had disappeared be-hind the rising ground beyond, the French rushed in, and it must be admitted that there was no reason why we should not have done the aame. It was an operation entirely devoid of risk for cither party, but to our allies is due the credit of their superior quickness of perception. Indeed, so little of this quality had some of our own men, that they rushed at the fort with loud shouts, apparently mistaking the tricolor which waved from its walls for a Chinese banner. As the French sailors often carry small tri-color flags in the pockets of their spacious trowsers, their con-quests are rapidly proclaimed. Upon this occasion the leading marine, having been provident enough to supply himself with a nationsl *^ pavilion,^' sprung upon the walls flag in hand, and shout-ing " Vive TAmiral I TEmpereur ! la France ! TAngleterre T' aU in a breath, created an intense amount of enthiisiasm, and was embraced by his admiral, and invested with the legion of honor on the spot

The fort was a small circular building, fitted for the reception of about 200 men. Wo entered and inspected it, and from the parapet obtained a good view of the city walls, about 600 yards distant. As soon as the Chinese perceived us in possession, the guns from the city opened upon us, but without much effect Meantime the naval brigade and marines had been coming up, and extending far to the right, over undulating ground covered with graves and clumps of wood. From lin^s Fort we had an excellent view of a skirmish in which they engaged with some braves, who now appeared for the first time in some force. These latter were aoon driven back to the base of the hill on which Ooogh's Fort is situated, but only to advance again as our men retired. Indeed, as a considerable distance separated the combat-ants throogfaout, the Chinese seemed to gain confidence from this mode of warfare, and began to collect in great numbers behind a ■nail village, fiom which they made a grand advance, with quan* of banners waving, and great yelling and vaporing, throw*

94 POSITION FOR THE NIGHT.

ing forward skirmishers in pairs carrying gingalls, making con-temptuous gestures at their enemies, and indulging in diveis an-tics, for which their leader, a tall man in blue, who carried a huge sword, was especially conspicuous. He was followed by a stand-ard-hearer, capering along ten yards in advance of the crowd. This brave army ultimately succeeded in occupying a straggling wood, and in ensconcing themselves in the horse-shoe graves with which the hill-sides abounded, and which formed natural rifle-pits. Above these, with their heads well under cover, they defi-antly waved flags, and managed, with their gingaUs, to wound some of our men as they dodged from one grave to another. The hill presented somewhat the appearance of an animated rabbit-warren. Two or three shells, however, judiciously dropped among them from lin's Fort, soon started them from their hiding-places; and the gentleman in blue displayed even more agility in hopping back ^igain at the head of his army than he had in his advance.

As this was the position we intended to occupy for the night, the remainder of the afternoon was spent either in replying to the guns from the city with our field-pieces, or in checking the advance of the braves whenever they ventured to attempt to re-occupy their old position. Our loss during the day's operations had been trifling. With the exception of poor Hackct^ we had not a man killed, though, I believe, two or three afterward died of the wounds they had received from gingall balls. The scene had been one of considerable interest and novelty, if not of fight-ing. As none of the staff were mounted, and the distances were great, one or two of us, who were amateurs, were glad to find that we could be of use in carrying messages. Our head-quarters for the night Was a joss-house in the rear of Lin's Fort, which was occupied by an allied force, while in the bamboo groves to the right the marines and naval brigade were encamped. Our slum-bers were presided over by gods and godesses, but, unfortimately, were a good deal disturbed by the groans of some wounded men, who had been brought in to the veranda. Long before daylight the following day we were once more on the alert, and scrambled in the dark over the rough ground to Lin's Fort, the walls of which were lit up by the lurid glare of numerous fires of our men, who were encamped round it.

Meantime the bombardment was maintained with unabated

BOHBABDXEMT CONnsrUED.— DEATH OF CAPTAIN BATE. 95

▼igor, and as I listened to the whistle of the TOimd*Bhot, and wmtched the meteor-like shells of our mortar-battery circling through the air, or the flaming track of the rushing rocket^ the old nights of Sebastopol were forcibly recalled to my recollection.

As day broke the enemy once more opened fire upon us, and by this time the troops were on the move in all directions. The r^t wing was advancing upon a small hamlet^ with a view of oocapying a large building in it known as the Asylum of Indi-gent Females. The French, with the 59th, were tiddng up their position to the left^ while we moved across the broken coun-try to the Asylam. The enemy kept up as brisk a fire as they could, bat apparently were incapable of directing their aim. They nooeeded, however, in inflicting one irreparable loss upon us upon reaching the village. The general and his sta£^ accom-panied by Captain Bate, proceeded to reconnoitre the walls pre-paratoiT to bringing up the scaling-ladders. As they approached to within thirty yards of the walls, they sought shelter from the sharp matchlock-fire which was opened upon them behind a mud boose. It was necessary, however, that the ditch should be in-spected, and it was in the performance of this dangerous service that C^tain Bate, who undertook it in company with Captain Man, ILE., was killed.

Nine o^clock was the hour at which it had been arranged with the naval authorities that the firing should cease ; it was not yet cif^t^ and we were already under the walls. The shot and shell from otir ships, which were at this time principally directed at the east gate, and that part of the wall opposite to which we then were, cooatantly fell near our own men : the angle of the Asylum was blown up by one shell ; another burst among a par^ of the 6M1, killing one man and wounding five.

The shot of the enemy was not apparently directed upon our or tamed to any one point It fell in distant cabbage-gar> to the right, whistled high over head to the left, seriously damaged onoSending trees in rear, and was very disagreeable for amalean, for no one spot was safer than another ; feeble rockets, barbed as arrows, thudded about, and fizzed for a moment in the grasR, and the grasshopper buzz of a gingall ball was occasionaUy aadible. Upon our occupying the village, the population, chiefly ennristing of old men and 'indigent" females with goat's feet, home ought to have been the Asylum, came tottering out^

96 ESCALADE OF THE WALLS.

prostrating themselves on the ground and beating their breasts ; dragging little children after them, they stumbled and hobbled over the rough ground among our men, by whom, of course, they were in no way molested.

All this time the Land Transport Corps, composed of China-men, were employed in bringing up ammunition to the front, to be used against their own countrymen, with a reckless disregard of gingall balls, and an absence of patriotism truly edifying.

Meantime, a large body of braves coming round the north an-gle, attacked our extreme right, and Colonel HoUoway's brigade of marines was extended in skirmishing order to repel them. A pretty hot fire was also being kept up on the embrasures by the rifle company of a regiment of Madras native in&ntry, part of the 59th regiment, and by a rocket battery of the marine artillery, under Lieutenant Studdert. From the hillock upon which this battery was placed, an admirable view was obtained of the city wall and the scene of operations generally ; and I took advantage of a few quiet moments in a grave, before the ^rder for the assault was given, to make a sketch. Some heavy guns in the fore-ground, manned by blue-jackets under Lieutenant Beamish, were dropping shot and shell into Magazine Hill. As we had now been for some time exposed more or less to the fire of our own ships, and the French were apparently bent upon escalading be-fore the time, the order was given for the French and the 59th to escalade, which they did simultaneously. Major Luard being the first man on the waUs, closely followed by a French officer and Colonel Graham of the 59th : Lieutenant Stewart, Boyal Engi-neers, however, would have disputed this honor with the foremost had not his ladder given way. Where so little honor was to be gained by any body, as at the siege of Canton, it is hardly &ir for either party to appropriate the entire modicum. There can be no doubt that, had there been any body on the walls at the time and place at which they were scaled, the rivalry would not have been the less keen between our allies and ourselves ; as it was, the ene* my deserted the embrasures the moment the ladders were placed against them, and not a shot was fired at us from the time the walls were scaled to the capture of Magazine Hill, except from our own ships.

The scaling party on the rights not knowing that the left had assaulted before the time, were necessarily not upon the walls for

8CEIIK FBOM MAGAZINE HUX. 97

aome moments afterward. The ladders were soon swarming with man^f^ and bhie-jackets like bees closteiing into a hive. Then we raced akng the wall to Magazine Hill ; Canton, silent as a citj of the dead, lying at onr feet^ with here and there a corpse stretched in aome narrow lane, to give a chanoter of reality to the sopposHion. Whenever a lockless Chinaman was seen scamper^ ing over the ooontiy to the right, or the flatter of a bit of blue ck)th indicated a hnman being in the streets to our left, dozens of Minie boUeta showered round the devoted object — seldom, it must be admitt<^, striking it I observed one man dodging abont . among the graves for at least a quarter of an hour, making short dashes from one grave to another, amid a storm of bullets, just as one inns fiom shelter to shelter in a shower of rain.

The d^ wall was about 26 feet in height and 20 feet broad ; the guns weie of small calibre, and wretched workmanship. A Uttle beyond Magazine EUll the Chinese made a stand upon the walk, and a short and rather sharp combat took place at dose qoartm^ in which Lord Gilford was wounded, and the general himself so hard pressed as to be compelled to shoot a man with his revc^ver. At the same time the enemy opened a fire upon OS from some guns planted upon the walls about 200 yards dis> tant» which were not immediately silenced.

The scene fiom Magazine Hill at this time was peculiar and exating: 200 feet below lay the city, mapped out before us; a vast expanse of roofe, a labyrinth of intricate lanes, in a vain at-tempt to follow the windings of which the eye was bewildered — ^a pagoda here, there a many-storied temple, or the successive roo& of a yamun embowered in luxuriant foliage, above which towered a pair of mandarin poles—beyond aU, the tapering masts of our own shipsL Such were the principal features of the view in a aootherly direction ; but its striking element was that impressive flknoe^ that absence of all movement on the part of a population ofa million and a half| that lay as though entombed within the tkw walls* whose very pulsation seemed arrested by the terrors of the night before, and whose only desire, if they could think at aH sfipeMed to be, that the bare fact of their existence should be CnpuUcu by the conquerors.

This deathlike stillness upon one side was rendered all the more maaricable by the hubbub which was going on all round. On the rigfati the Tartar troops oji the western walls were replying

G

98 . CAFTUBE OF THE CITT.

with some vigor to the fire of a field-piece we had now brought to bear upon them ; on the left the wall was still swarming with our men, who had just scaled and were crowding up. In rear the two blue-jacket forts were partially in flames, and we were com-pleting the business with a few rockets firom Magazine Hill, while firom the same spot we had just opened a fire upon Gough's Fort, still occupied by the enemy. As it was not yet ten o'clock, a good morning's work had been already accomplished. The ma-rines and French had turned to the right on surmounting the wall ; but the 59th had been told off to take an opposite directioui and secure our position on the extreme left.

Haying seen that Magazine Hill was satisfiutorily in our pos-session, I accompanied General Straubenzee, who returned along the wall to the southern face. Here we found the 59th engaged in a little desultory rifle practice with the enemy, who were pick-ing our men off the walls from the tops of their houses : while we were there, Lieutenant Bowen of the 59th received a wound, of which he afterward died, from a matohlock. General Straubenzee therefore, withdrew the men to an angle in the wall, which afford-ed good shelter, and where a building above a gateway offered some accommodation for the men. We found a wounded old Chinese warrior lying here, whom we revived with a little brandy and water, but from whom we could not obtain much information, though he was evidently puzzled at being humanely treated This point was made the advanced post for the mght

As the capture of the cily might now be said to be complete, I took advantage of the company of Captain Hall and Mr. Parkes, who, with a strong escort, were going to open up a new line of communication with the river, to return to the Furious. The east gate was barricaded on the inside ; upon forcing it open we found an arc of wall in which was another gate, and which formed a sort of loop upon the main wall, inclosmg a small collection of houses. On bursting these open, a number of frightened inhabitants, crouch-ing in comers, immediately made their presence known by pray-ers and supplications for mercy. As one of these was an eating-house, with a large copper frill of ready-made tea, we refreshed ourselves preparatory to new labors. Clearing these houses of inhabitants, we opened the next gate, and proceeded along the narrow streets of the suburbs, all of which were deserted, and the shops and houses shut Still we Qould not be secure against a

CAFTUBB OF OOUOH'8 FOBT. 99

■odden attack from the namerooa narrow lanes and dark oomers in which the saborba aboond. Croflsing the open parade-ground, we made oar way nnmoleated to the river near French Follj, and I reached the Foriooa at one o'clock.

At three o'clock the same afternoon Oongh'a Fort was token, ■nd oar right was advanced from Magazine Hill to the north gate. In petfarmiog this operation we met with some reaistance ; and throagboat the night our advanced poet, which was composed of Uoe-jackets under the command of Sir Bobert Maclure and Cap-tain Sberard Oebom, was a good deal harassed by the Tartar ttoopa oocnpying this portion of the city. These soldiers had throogboQt exhibited considerably more courage than the Chinese brmvea. ^. Parkes subsequently found the return of their killed •nd woonded, which was stated to be 450. The right and left ad-vanced poets were held by our men. The French troops princi-pally occupied the five-storied pagoda, a commodious and sub-stantial building situated upon the wall : as a Chinese military position, it had suffered a good deal from our shot, but was uever-thelen convertible into a most roomy and comfortable barrack. It is a very good ^lecimen of Chinese architecture. The annexed wood-cat is taken from a photograph, for which I am indebted to Dr. P<»bea, of the Cruiser,

100 M0BTALIT7 AMONG THE CHINESE.

On the following day Lord Elgin proceeded up the liver to the Actseon, then lying ofF the Dutch FoUy, and Mr. Wade and I start-ed ofF for the front with a communication from his excellency for the general. We found the fighting over, and the city walls in complete possession of the allies. Thus a most important result had been achieved with a trifling loss to ourselves, and in a man-ner calculated to produce a deep impression upon a population whose habitual insolence to foreigners had rendered it extremely desirable that they should be made aware of the power we pos-sessed of inflicting a severe punishment for insults, whether offer-ed by the authorities or the people. The bombardment, which had lasted for twenly-seven hours, at the rate of nearly a hundred rounds per ship, was terrific in aspect and in its effects upon cer-tain portions of the city, but by no means so destructive of human life as might have been expected. Directed principally against particular gates or angles of the wall, or against Magazine Hill, few shot or shell fell in the heart of the town, and the people soon found out the safe comers.

It was afterward reported by Chinamen that many women and children had been crushed to death by the crowds swaying to and fro under the influence of panic in the narrow streets ; but we have no evidence of this. From the thin sprinkling of dead bodies I saw in the quarters most destroyed by our fire, and from the re-ports of others, I think Mr. Cooke's estimate of 200 (not including the Tartar garrison) is a very Mi approximation as regards the whole number killed. At the same time, it may be remarked that, so fiu: as the actual capture of the cily was concerned, the bombardment for more than a day and a night was quite unnec-essary : from the feeble resistance offered to us, it was evident that the walls might have been stormed as surely if our cannonade had only lasted for three hours instead of twenly-seven. Indeed, during the whole of this time, only two shots were fired upon our ships in the river fix)m guns upon the walls. But the nature of the resistance may best be judged of by the list of killed and wounded, and the imusually small proportion which the former bears to the latter. In the entire British force, consisting of near-ly 5000 men, the result of the two days' operations was eight kill-ed and seventy-one wounded, including among the former one killed by our own shot^ and one waylaid and murdered by vil-lagers. The French, out of a force of 900, lost only two men kill-

CHINESE LOOTINO.PABTIE& 101

ed and thirty wounded. Doubtless the mortality would have been greater had the attack been made from the west side, on which they were prepared for us, under the impression that we should adopt the plan of attack of 1842 ; but, under all drcumstanoes, we should always have retained those advantages which result firom such an immeasurable superiority of weapons, military skill, and mofok, as would render fidlure in any military operation in China inezeusablev except under very peculiar and exceptional circum*

On our way to the city I observed in the suburb laige looting-parties, composed of Chinese blackguards, ransacking the houses, and looking out for stragglers from our men, with whom they oo-easbnally exchanged shots. They preferred, however, to be left alone, and kept as much out of sight as possible. At one place a pawnbroker's tower was being thoroughly gutted ; a party on the top were engaged in overhauling the contents, and throwing over to their ccMnrades below rich furs and brocaded silks; nor had we time» as we passed rapidly on, to interrupt them in their deeds of §pc^M&m. It was already becoming evident that the work of ad-ministering the government of a large city containing a million and a half of inhabitants, so ready, upon tiie first opportunity, to prey upon each other, would be by no means an easy task for fbr* cigneis totally unused to, and comparatively unacquainted with, die system by which vast urban populations were governed and eoDtroDed, and only in one or two instances able to speak their language.

A great part of the suburb had been destroyed, so as not to af* fcrd ahdier to thieves or awwwins upon the immediate line of oommonication. The East Gate, at which we entered, was occu-pied by Colonel Graham and the 59th ; and on our arrival at the fioot, we found that the general had just left Magazine Hill to make a cireait of the city wall& We therefore took advantage of a stiong French escort to follow him. As we passed along the west wall flanking the Tartar quarter, the people were collected in groups gazing at us with interest, but with an air of profound re-spect and submission ; when we warned them to disperse, they at once obeyed. At one guard we found a Tartar officer, whom we dislodged, and replaced with a small French guard. At the westp «ni gate we were informed by the English officer, who had been on guard there for some hours, that great crowds had been pour-

102 CONDITION OP THE PUBLIC BUILDINGS.

ing out of the town, but that, when assured of our pacific inten-tions, they had ceased to manifest alarm or leave the town. The few persons with whom Mr. Wade conversed announced themselves to be Tartar soldiers, and presented a much finer appearance than the Chinese. The Tartar population of Canton has been estab-lished there for a century, and originally came fix)m Kirin, in Manchouria. They were sent to this city to overawe and mam-tain order among the proverbially lawless population of the prov-ince. Numerous little white flags fluttered from sticks upon the wall and on the neighboring houses, to avert farther hostilities on the part of the barbarians. As we turned along the south wall we observed terrible evidence of the destructive effects of the bom-bardment The south gate had been totally destroyed by fire, and a broad scar of burnt houses extended toward the centre of the city. Yeh's yamun was a heap of ruins ; the wall behind it was battered and breached, and every house-roof was perforated with shot-holes.

Generally the habitations partook more of the nature of hovels than the residences of the respectable citizens of one of the most important and flourishing mercantile emporia in the empire. De-cidedly the handsomest part of the town was in the neighborhood ortliC Confucian Hall, near the south gate. Here some gaudi-ly-painted yamuns and joss-houses reared their fantastic gables among the massive foliage of the large trees which were planted in the court-yarda

The next day (the last of the year) Lord Elgin landed himself, .and ascended, by means of a scaling-ladder, the southeast angle of the wall at the point where it was destined to be leveled so as to form the permanent line of communication. In the short piece of suburb intervening between it and the river sentries had been placed, and the houses were being demolished after the inhabitants had been allowed to remove their goods and chattels. A canal entered the city at this pointy pasmng under the wall, in which there was a water-gate. Tip to this time our military position was confined to the walls alone. No European had yet entered the dty, but it looked calm and tranquil as ever. The alarm of the inhabitants appeared to have subsided. It was reported that the city authorities were still exercising their functions, and that Yeh had taken up his abode with one of them, and was in innocent ex-pectation that firesh overtures touching our treaty right to enter the city were about to be made to him.

EXPLOSION OF A IfAGAZINE. 103

An unfortunate accident oocnned to swell the list of killed and wounded in the cooise of the afternoon* Some blue-jackets, em-ployed in clearing out a magaziae, allowed a spark to fail among the powder, and an explosion ensued which caused the death of five men, and severely injured twelre more.

Thus closed the year 1857, so eventM in the histoiy of British anns throoghoat the East, and thus closed with it the reign of the impfri^ commissioner Yeh*

104 EXPLOBATION OF THE CIIT.

CHAPTER 8.

CHAPTER Vm.

New.Year's Day, 1858.— Exploration of the City by the Allies «— Capture of Ydi. —

Teh*8 Memorial to Pekin. — ^BehaTior of Yeh in CaptiTity.-^-Conferenoe relathne to the GoTemment of Canton. — ^Plans Proposed.-^Scheme ultimately adopted.— Installation of Pihkwei.— Lord Elgin's Address to PihkweL— Pihkwei's Reply.— Institution of a ciyil TribunaL — ^Moral and political Effects of the Occupation of Canton.

New-Yeab's Day, 1868, was celebrated bj a formal procession of the embassadors to Magazine Hill for the purpose of taking possession of the city ; the ships in the river were all dressed out in flags, rainbow &shion ; , royal salutes startled the timid inhabit-ants into a belief that the bombardment was recommencing ; and, indeed, the incessant booming of cannon was an appropriate in-troduction to the regime under which they were now to be gov-erned.

For the next three days the troops were engaged in hutting themselves on the walls, a proceeding which was rendered the more necessary by the incessant rain to which they were subject-ed. In the course of certain interesting investigations into the personal property of the inhabitants, which are considered legiti-mate in the case of a captured city, some of the streets more im-mediately adjoining the walls were explored, and in most cases found deserted. Mr. Parkes, however, passed through the centre of the town with a strong guard, and met with no incivility fix)m the people. In the mean time a memorial was sent in fix>m the governor of the city, Pihkwei, and some of the other civic func-tionaries, stating their readiness to memorialize Pekin in any sense we might choose to dictate, protesting against the conduct of Yeh throughout, and assuring tJie ministers that they had never been consulted by the imperial commissioner upon those subjects whicb had involved the safety of their city.

On the 6th of January the seizure of the imperial commissioner was determined upon, and at half past 7 o'clock A.M. the city-was entered at different points by three English and one French column ; from the plans of the city in our possession, and inform-ation already received, the position of the principal yamuns was

CAFTDBS OF TEH. 105

known. The French, proceeding along the great east and west street^ known as the " Avenue of Benevolence and Love," from the westward, reached the large yaman belonging to the Tartar general, in which they captured that high functionary, and were Aofilj afterward joined by General Straubenzee ; while Colonel Wakb'a battalion of marines had been to the yamun of the gov-ernor, and made prisoner of Pihkwei, and thither the naval and militaiy aathorities proceeded. In the mean time Mr.Parkes had received information that Yeh was in a library not &t distant, bat on arriving there he found the house empty, with the ezcep-tkm of an old man who was reading in the giuden. From this venerable stodent it was discovered that Yeh had been absent for five days; but the ftct was at last extorted fiom him that the im-perial eommissioner had sought refuge in the house of the Tartar lieutenant general Accompanied by an escort of a hundred blue-jackets under Captain Key, Mr. Parkes at once repaired to this yamun, the doors of which they found closed ; upon breaking them opmk^ and rushing forward, an old man in a mandarin's coat and cap threw himself before them, stating that he was Yeh. This was the lieutenant general himself^ who was at once thrust ande as an impostor ; and as people were heard escaping through the faaek entrances, Captain Key hurried in that direction, and ob-serving a stout man in a narrow passage, resembling a portrait he had seen of the imperial commissioner, threw his arms round the neck of the fugitive, and proclaimed him his prisoner.

A large collection of the archives of the imperial commissioner WW Kiaed here, and proved a most valuable and interesting as-sortment of papers. Some of the private correspondence which had paond between Canton and Pekin on barbarian afGurs was eztronely coiious^ while it proved that» even after more than a eeatarVs trade with China, a long and disastrous war concluded by a commercial treaty, and constant interoourse with the high ■Qtboriues of the empire, the cabinet at Pekin were as fiur from appreciating our character and designs as they had been at the commencement We found among these papers the English, French, and American treaties, which it is not certain had ever been sent to the capital. One of the most interesting specimens of a Chinese dispatch I insert in foil, as it affords an amusing and cnrioQs illustration of the amount of information and intelligence which Yeh could bring to bear upon these barbarian affairs with

106 YEH^ MEMORIAL TO PEKIN.

the administration of which he was chaiged. The preliminaiy remarks are bj our able Chinese secretary, Mr. Wade, who trans-lated the document:

(Memorandum), — The following is translated fix>m a draft in the same hand as that in which several of Yeh's draft memorials Are corrected, and which I have other reasons for believing to be his own MS. It is the most unshapely specimen of Chinese writing I have ever seen, and has given a very competent native scholar considerable trouble to decipher. It was evidently a first draft, with much left to be filled in and corrected, and must have been written but a few days before the receipt of the plenipoten-tiaries' ultimatum of the 12th of December, 1867. We have no proof that it was sent to Pekin, though such was probably the case.

{IVanslation.)

(Yeh, etc.,) " presents a memorial to the effect that the English barbarians, troubled at home and pressed* with daily increasing urgency by other nations fix>m without, will hardly attempt any thing farther ; that they are reported to have had several consult-ations upon the opening of trade, and earnestly desire the sug-gestion of some means to that end ; that in consequence of the English chief t not returned to Canton. A respectftd memorial (of which particulars) he forwards by courier, at the rate of 600 U a day, and looking upward, solicits the sacred glance thereon.

" On the 6th of the 9th moon (23d of October, 1857) your serv-ant had the honor to forward to your majesty various particularB of his administration of barbarian aflbirs during the 7th and 8th moons (August and September), as it is recorded,

" Since the engagement of tiie 10th of the 6th moon (1st of June), a period of more than six months, the English barbarians have made no disturbance up the Canton Biver.:^ (It should be

* He maj mean pressed by their solicitations or for money. EKs Hong Kong cor-respondents, as their seized letters prove, had been representing ns deeply indebted tt> Rnssia, and in great difficulty as to the means of satisfying her claims.

t The preamble generally epitomizes the matter of the memorial. I take this part of it to be best explained by the last sentence of the memorial. There is evi-dently something to be filled up in the text.

t The afiair of the Ist of June is the destmction of Heoang's fleet np Fatshan Creek, doubtless reported to Pekin at a victory. The manner in which the next

TEH'S MEMOBIAL. 107

known^ howerer, that in the defeat sustained by Elgin at Mang* gm-ta* in the 7th mooni he was puraaed by the Mang-ga-la (Ben-gal) barbarian foice to the sea-shore. A number of Frehch men-of-war, which happened to be passing, fired seyeral guns in suo-oesion, and the ibroe of the Bengal barbarians fisdling back, the chief Elgin made his escape. The chief Elgin was very grateful to the French force for saving his life, and on the arrival of the French minirter, Lo-8o-liin,t who, in the beginning of the 9th moon, had also reached Qnang-Tung, he the chief^ Elgin, fSted the chief Gros at Hong Kong {Ut^ merrily feasted and prayed him [to drink] wine), and consolied him upon the present position of afGEtirs in China.

"The chief Oros said : I was not an eye-witness of last year's afEur, bol the story current among people of different nations who were by at the time has made me familiar with the whole ques-tioQ. Too flee4 when the forts were taken, the Chinese govern-ment made no retaliation ; when the houses of the people were boned, it still declined to fight Now, the uniform suppression, three years ago, of the Quang-Tung insurrection, in which some haadreds of thousands were engaged, shows the mUitary power of China to be by no means insignificant Will she take no no-tioe of her injuries? (No.) She is certain to have some deep pol-icy, whidi will enable her so to anticipate us that, before we can tdce up any ground, she will have left us without the means of finding &alt with her, while she, on the other hand, will oblige the fimgneiB to admit themselves completely in the wrong. On the hat oocision that your nation opened fire,§ it was but for some days, and people came forward (as mediators), but this time you did your utmost for three months. (You fired) 4000 rounds and more Aora great guns, as well as 8000 rockets. The high autho^ of Cbnton, it is plain, have all along made their minds up (or

h lamwlTwi ihowi thii Laid Elgin** itiani had ben alreadjr amoiiBeeil, lUl pwtkolaiB.

ii cleariy a compromfae befween )f«Bg-s»>U, Bengal end Celcntu.

cBbMMdor's name h eliewhere giren ae Go-kKto (Grot) ; hk title

ii c^kieod^ taken to be his nane» and if pat in Chineee &thion after hii

v^^Hy for own. here wed it genemOy rendered **for hMtanoe.'* Baron ii andi to aigne thai he ondentande Ych's policy, hii opinion of which will be the cad of the paragraph. We ihonld have itated it at the beginning, and heive JntrodnrBd the fllnetrationi giren. I Ihii «a« be |a— miifl to refer to 8ir Hogh Ocngh'i attack on Canton.

108 TEH'S MEMOBIAL.

have seen their way). Thej understand the character of all class-es, high and low, in our foreign states. This is the reason why ^ej have been so firm and unswerving. When I was leaving home, the instructions my own sovereign gave me, with affection-ate* earnestness, were these :

'' ' There is a quarrel with the English in Qoang-Tung; when you go thither, confine yourself to the observance of the treaty and pacific communications. You are not to avail yourself of the opportunity to commit acts of aggression or spoliation. Bo not make China hate the French as a band of hostile wretchesf who violate their engagements. The circumstances, too, are so different (from those of the last war of the English with China), that it is essential you should judge:^ for yourself what course to pursue. There is no analogy, I apprehend, between the present case and the opium question of some ten years since, in which they had some wrongs to allege.'

'^ It appears that in the country of the five Indies appropriated by the English barbarians, they have established four tribal divi-sions— ^three along the coast, and one in the interior. One of the coast divisions is Mang-ga-la (Bengal), the country in the extreme east; one is Ma-ta-la-sa (Madras), southwest of Bengal; and one Mang-mai (Bombay), on the western limit of India. That in the interior is A-ka-la (Agra), lying midway between east and west About the end of last summer, it is stated, twelve marts (or ports) in Bengal which had revolted were lost Since the eighth moon the marts in Bombay have all been retaken (ac., fix)m the English) by (Indian) chie& ; and since Elgin's return after his defeat, the leaders of the English barbarians have sustained a succession of serious defeats. The Indian chief drove a mine fix)m bank to bank of a river, and by the introduction of infernal machines {lit, water-thunder) blew up several lai^ vessels of war, killing above 1000 men. On shore they enticed (the English) fitr into the country, and murdered above 7000 of them, killing a distinguish-ed soldier named Pu-ta-wei-ka-lut,§ and many more.

" Elgin passes day after day at Hong Kong, stamping his foot and sighing; his anxiety is increased by the non-anival of dis-patches firom his government"

* The manner in which the Chineic mRnilftriw addresB the people.

t Base, or low-caste persons.

t That is, yon are not to accept the policy of EngUind or any other nation as yous.

S Possibly Brigadier HaTelock.

BEHAVIOB OF TEH IN CAPnVITT. 109

I rMched Magaisina Hill shortlj after the prisoners arriyed tbere. Yeh, sealed in a large room, surrounded bj some of his immadiatf attendants, was answering in a loud, harsh voice, ques* tioDfl pat to him by Sir Michael Seymour with reference to En-glishmen who had been prisoners in his hands. Though he en-dearored, by the assumption of a careless and insolent manner, to ooooeal his alarm, his glance was troubled, and his fingers trem-bkd with suppressed agitation. His heavy sensual features, al-though relieved by a trembling vivacious eye, were not calculated to betray veiy keen emotional sensibility.

In aikocher room, and more dignified in their bearing, perhaps becanse they had less cause for alarm, Pihkwei and the Tartar gcDeral phAosophioally awaited their fiite— the former a quiet, gentkmaD-like old man, the latter of gigantic proportions and stolid covnteoance.

It was at once decided that the imperial oommissioner should be deprived of all fiuther power for mischief and kept as a pris-ooer CD board the " Inflexible," whither he was conveyed forth-with. In the mean time, the two plenipotentiaries arrived at head-quaiten, and at a conference with the naval and military aniborities, discnased, for the remainder of the afternoon, the ex-isiing astitiide of affairs, and the proper course to be adopted un-der the drcomstances.

In the eanse of humanity, the abandonment of the city to the refuae of its population was to be deprecated ; while the restora-tion of coofidence to the inhabitants generally was a result which, in a pcditieal point of view, was eminently to be desired. The of organizing without delay a system of government tberefeie apparent The question for decision was what that diOQid be. The naval and military authorities had al-oaftosed their inability to govern the city, and their con-that the Chinese ftmctionaries were alone competent to order. In this opinion the plenipotentiaries thoroughly ooocimed. Indeed, every hour that passed was affording incon-endenoe of its accuracy. The Chinese rabble had already advantage of the defenseless condition of the city, and were dsihr femishing us with proof of their skill as plunderers. Or* n&ianl gangs were prowling about the suburbs, and venturing iak> the city, gaining courage by immunity, and numbers by sue-

110 CONFEBENCE BELA'HVE TO THE

The temptation to loot was strong upon our own men, and the general professed himself nnable, with the small force at his dis-posal, to patrol efficiently with police a town containing a million of inhabitants, with whom it was impossible to communicate, and hold six miles of wall at the same time, unless assisted by civil authority of a character which the people had been accustomed to respect With a population imbued with a traditionary awe for their own authorities, and speaking an unknown tongue, at the same time containing a larger proportion of trained thieves and vagabonds than any in the world, with an imperfectly disciplined force in occupation, consisting of barely 6000 men, and composed of a heterogeneous assemblage of French and English, blue-jack-ets and marines, Madras sepoys and British in&ntry, and, to crown all, with only two gentlemen on the spot whose knowledge of the language enabled them to communicate directly with the people, it was manifestly absurd to think of replacing the local Chinese system of government by one of our own; any such attempt would assuredly lead to the plunder and destruction of the town, the demoralization of the troops, and to disappointment and fSul-ure on the part of those engaged in carrying out the experiment Of this fact no persons were more thoroughly convinced than Mr. Wade and Mr. Parkes, upon whom would devolve the fimctions of all the mandarins in Canton.

The situation of afiGurs at this most critical juncture, and the difficulties by which they were surrounded, are very clearly de-fined in Lord Elgin's dispatch of the 9th of Januaiy, in which his excellency states : '^ Two plans for surmounting the difficulties of the situation in which we found ourselves were under the consid-eration of the commanders-in-chief when I reached the Magazine Hill. The one proposed that Pihkwei and the Tartar general should be permitted at once to return to their yamuns, on condi-tion of their consenting to publish a proclamation, in which the military occupation of the city by the allied forces should be rec-ognized. I thought it my duty to enter my protest against the adoption of an arrangement of this nature. Neither on the side of the Chinese was there, as it appeared to me, sufficient honesty, nor on our own sufficient means of acquiring information, and, perhaps I may add, sufficient forbearance, to afford a reasonable prospect of its working successfully. I felt confident that if Pihk-wei returned to his yamun on the terms above mentioned, many

OOYEBNlfHffT OF CANTON. HI

days would not dapse before some act would be cominitted by him, or some procIamatioQ iaBued, which would give rise to sos-pidoofl on ontpart; that on sach soBpicions, appeals to the com-mandenHn<chie^ xagLDg them to adopt measures of precaution or ooeraoD, of increased stringency, would be grounded ; and that in this way the irritation of the soldiery against the Cantonese would be kept op, and all the evils attending the occupation of a city by m hostile army perpetuated. The other plan which had been sub-mitted for the consideration of the conmianders-in-chief proceeded equally on the assumption that Pihkwei must be retained as gov* emor of Canton. By way, however, of providing security for his upiight behavior, and for the maintenance of a good understand* isg between the parties, it suggested that he should be detained ms a prisoDer of war, if necessary, on board one of her majesty's ships of war anchored in the river, and that he should exercise ficcn thence the functions of his office. It is needless that I should here inflst on the objections to which this proposition was open."

The ooone ultimately adopted was a compromise of these two extremes. It was decided that Pihkwei should be reinstated in his own yamon, in a manner calculated to increase rather than impair the prestige of that authority upon which the tranquillity, and, indeed, the very existence of the city, at that critical moment, depended ; but, at the same time, that it should be impressed upon htm that, inasmuch as the city remained under martial law, he was ovily administering its affiiirs subject to the approval of the general, who was the supreme authority ; that he would be under a constant surveillance ; and that the most serious consequences would result from any treachery on his part This proposal was laid before Pihkwei, and, after twenty-four horns' deliberation, daring which time he remained our prisoner, he accepted the new conditions under which he was to continue the government of Canton.

During his short confinement the governor and the Tartar gen-erml were occasionaDy visited by the Treasurer Howqua, and oth-er of the principal merchants. The magistrate, prefect, and nearly all of the civic authorities, had already fled firom the city ; and, in-deed, it was some time before they could be induced to return and leRnne their functions under PihkweL

The 9th of January was the day fixed for the installation of Pihkwei ; and at two o'clock in the afternoon the two plenipoten-went in procession through the town, followed by a large

112 LOHD ELGHTS ADDBESS TO FIHKWEL

bo^y of troops, and preceded by militaiy bands. The " Avenxie of Benevolence and Love" was crowded with eager &ces, gazing at lis as we passed with respectM cariosity. The .entry into the yamun of the governor was sufficiently imposing; and as the strains of martial music echoed through the several courts, the population outside can have had little doubt that both their city and its authorities were in our power, and that the latter only ruled by sufferance.

But while Lord Elgin was determined that it should be very clearly understood that Pihkwei held office only by the authority and at the will of the plenipotentiaries and commander-in-chief, he was by no means desirous that the prestige of that ftinctionary should be impaired — this being, in point of £act, the instrument with which we were about to control the subordinate Chinese of-ficials. He had, therefore, a double object in view in this cer-emony of investiture, and at one moment it was apprehended that this double object might be in some degree compromised by cer-tain mistakes which occurred in carrying the arrangemenlB into effect ' In the first place, no orders were given as to the time at which the prisoners who were to be converted into potentates were to be released fix)m durance. This omission led to consider-able delay, so that, in point of fact, the Tartar general and Pihk-wei did not reach the yamun of the latter till long after the hour originally intended ; and, secondly, when they did arrive, a dis-pute arose between them and the interpreters as to the seats which they ought to occupy. It was finally settled that they should be placed inmiediately below the embassadors; and Lord Elgin had barely time, while the shades of night were gathering, to address to them the following words, which were cordially seconded by Baron Gros: "We are assembled here to welcome your excel-lency on your return to your yamun, and on your resumption of the functions of your office, which have been momentarily inter-rupted. It is proper, however, that I should apprise your excel-lency, and, through your excellency, the inhabitants of Canton, that the plenipotentiaries of England and France, and the com-manders-in-chief of the allied forces, are firmly resolved to retain military occupation of the city until all questions pending between our respective governments and that of China shall have been finally settled and determined between us, the high officers ap-pointed by our governments for this service, and a plenipotentia-ry of equal rank and powers, whom his imperial majesty, the

FIHKWKi'S BEPLT. 118

Emperor of Chinaf may eee fit to appoint to treat with us. Any attempt, therefine, whether by force or fraud, whether by treach-ery or videooe, to disturb us in oar poasession of the city, will not fiul to bring down on its authors and abettors the most severe and signal poniahment I am, however, no less prepared to ap-prise your exceUency that it is equally our determination, when the questions to which I have referred shall have been so settled, to withdraw from the military occupation of the city, and to re-sloie it to the imperial authorities. Meanwhile, it is our sincere wish that, during the period of our military occupation, the feel-ings of the people be respected, life and property protected, the good rewarded, and offenders, whether native or foreign, punished. We are deeuous to co-operate with your excellency for these ob-jects ; and, with this view, we have appointed a tribunal, com-posed of offioera of high character and discretion, to act in concert with you. We hope that, through the agency of this tribunal, confidepoe may be restored to the people, and the foundation laid of a better understanding between foreigner and native, so that heieafter all may pursue their avocations in peace, and traffic to-gether for their mutual advantage."

The substance of Pihkwei's reply to this address is as follows : ** He b^ged his respects to his lordship. He acknowledged his Ioidship*s consideration of the people of Canton. A state of tnaquillity would be best secured by the exertion of authority on ehher side, native and foreign, to restrain those severally sub-ject to it fiom doing what was offensive to the other. Wc prom-ised to ooQtrol our people ; he would control his. This would be to the advantage of Canton. Lastly, he trusted that his lordship might mxm meet an officer qualified to treat with him, and that the result of their negotiations would be the establishment of a good understanding."

The two mandarins were in full official costume, and retained throQ^iout that charmed and delighted manner which a Chinaman always puts on when he is powerless and alarmed. The ceremony over, the plenipotentiaries returned to their ships, and ]eft Pihk-wet in possession of his own yamun : a cheerless residence it must be at the best of times, consisting of a series of buildings divided bj eoort-yards, and each containing a large central hall, with two cr three small rooms on either side, scantily furnished, and light-ed by paper windows.

H

114 EFFECTS OF THE OCCUPATION OF CANTON.

•

When I visited the yamun on the following day the outer courts were full of allied troops, and Pihkwei lived in the inner division, so that he could not keep up intercourse with the outer world without passing our sentries. In one compartment of the same yamun was established a commission, composed of Colonel Holloway, Captain Martineau, and Mr. Parkes. The object of this commission was ostensibly to adjudicate upon cases brought by the Chinese of robbery or violence committed by our men upon the population ; but its principal function was to exercise a rigid surveillance over Pihkwei ; to superintend the issuing of proc-lamations ; and to collect information from private sources upon all matters affecting the disposition of the inhabitants, and the se-curity of our tenure in the city. At the same time, the institu-tion of a tribunal invested with judicial functions was not with-out a beneficial effect, as well upon the Chinese as upon our own troops. To the former it proved our desire to protect the private property and lives of the citizens ; and to the latter it manifested the determination which existed on the part of their own authori-ties to repress those outrages which were unfortunately becom-ing too common, and which, while they struck at the root of all military discipline, impaired the influence it was desired to ac-quire over the inhabitants by the exercise of moderation and justice.

The number of complaints which were daily brought by the Chinese before this tribunal fully justified the estimate formed of its value.

Our occupation of Canton gave us an opportunity, which might never again occur, of endeavoring, by intercourse and daily con-tact, to overcome that antipathy and distrust toward Europeans which had always distinguished its population, and to the mani-festation of which they were instigated by their own mandarins. Our former experience at Chusan gave us every reason to hope that a better acquaintance with us would remove their old exist-ing prejudices, and that, in the end, the forcible occupation of their city would lead to a better understanding on both sides. Under the influence of terror, one step was already gained. The populace had lost their defiant and insulting manner, and substi-tuted for it an air of profound submission and humility, always remaining in a standing position as a European passed, letting down their tails in accordance with their own customs when desir-ous of showing respect, and uncovering their heads out of defer-ence to our prejudices upon the subject

WITHDBAWAL OF THE NAVAL FOBCE. II5

CHAPTER 9.

CHAPTER IX.

WiMmnl of Ifat mtaI Force.~Taniiiii of the Tartir GeiienL~*<The Hall of Stale."— Hm ornammfal Gardeiis.^)cene8 at the Landing-place. — ^The Hall of ETiiainarian — ^Tbe ** ATenae of BeneTolence and Lore.** — Open-air Cookeiy. — Sovcti of Caotan.— JoM-honaea of Canton.— Fatnre Pnniihmenta illoatratod. — AKc4 poliee Corpi. — Pihkwei*t Prodamationi. — ^A Luncheon at Howqna'a. — Pihk««ri Diqiaich on TVade.— Propoaal to miao the Blockade.

Th£ city of Canton was now completely in the possession of the allied forces. Almost the whole of the British portion of the naral force was therefore withdrawn, the marines and 59th form-ing the anny of occupation, together with a few hundred French aailoi&

Oar Jacks presented a most grotesque appearance as they re-nxmed to their ships, waving Chinese banners, their heads cover-ed with mandarin caps, and their knapsacks filled with spoils of a mtsoellancoaa description ; though, to do them justice, we may Eurij conjecture that these were rather ornamental than useful in their character. In this respect our simple tars presented a mark-ed contrast in their looting propensities to their more prudent oomndcs among the allies. These latter possessed a wonderful tnttinct for securing portable articles of value ; and, while honest Jack was flourishing down the street with a broad grin of tri-umph on his face, a bowl of gold-fish under one arm, and a cage of canaiT'bijda under the other, honest Jean, with a demure coun-tenance, and no external display, was oonvcybg his well-lined pockets to the water-side.

All this time Pihkwei*s yamun presented so much more the appearance of a barrack for French and English soldiers than the residence of a Chinese mandarin, that it was considered de-sinble that they should be removed to the more spacious yamun bebttging to the Tartar general, but not at present occupied by him. Though in a dilapidated condition, it was a good specimen of the style of the best class of official residences in China. The finit indication to the stranger of the existence of one of these UiiMings is the large masonry screen, upon which gigantic dragons are delineated, and which is often placed upon the side of the thor-

IIQ ««THE HALL OF STATE."

oughfitre opposite the yamim, so that the street passes through the court-yard, of which it forms one face. Near it are the two lofty red poles, the invariable insignia of office. Walls inclose this square, on the fourth side of which is the entrance. Two carved lions guard a flight of granite steps, which ascend to the principal gateway. Upon the huge folding-doors are depicted gaudily-at-tired giants, who gaze contemplatively up6n the crowd, holding with their left hands the points of their beards. Passing through this door, we enter a veranda, where once Tartar soldiers mounted guard, but of which all that remains are enormous tridents, spears, and cimeters stacked in a rack. Then down more steps, and across a paved yard, and through another painted gate, called the ''(rate of Ceremony," on each side of which are circular slabs of granite, like millstones, carved with figures emblematic of eternity. Then across another grass-grown court, and up another flight of steps, to the " Hall of Audience," in the front of which is a raised paved yard, surrounded by an elaborately-carved granite balustrade.

Altogether there were five successive ranges of buildings, each separated from the other by a court-yard, each dedicated to some particular purpose, each surmounted by a tablet-like escutcheon, on which were inscribed in large characters the name of the gen-eral then occupying the yamun, to whom it was presented by the emperor, the date, and the character '^ Happiness." The fourth range of buildings contained the '' Hall of State," where there was a stone screen, upon which were inscribed the merits which should distinguish the soldier, his necessary qualifications, and the posi-tion he should occupy with reference to them ; in other words, that he should be " the right man in the right place ;" and in the comer, in gigantic strokes, as appropriate to the profession in China at all events, the character "Longevity." The fifth was the innermost building of all : it possessed an upper story, and here were the apartments of the women. Each range was sevenly or eighty yards long, the private apartments lighted by .paper and occasion-al panes of glass, and ornamented with pictures.

There were detached buildings at the sides ; a library with joss figures, but no books ; a temple dedicated to the emperor's hand-writing, where a slab was erected like those upon which the com-mandments are usually inscribed in our own churches, with writ-ing in the Manchourian character in the emperor's own hand. Sur-rounding all were gardens, in which were tangled thickets, and

SCENES AT THE LANDING-PLACE. HJ

dud J waUo, and little islands in the middle of ponds, appr6aclied by rustic bridges, and surroonded by ornamental nx^k-work ; sum-mer-houses and oool grottoes were pleasant retreats from the noon-day heat The grounds altogether were of that quaint character peculiar to Chinese taste, and which is not without a certain charm. The stone of which the caves and arches were composed comes from a district about a hundred miles distant ; the fantastic shapes which are common to it render it especially suitable to ornamental purposes.

The whole of this establishment bore the marks of neglect and decay. Some of the rooms were tenanted by bats; the courts, whidi ihould have been shaded only by the spreading banyan or grftoeftil bamboo, were overrun with noxious weeds, and the gar> dens were partly jungle. All this, however, was ultimately trans-foimed by the allied civil and military officials, and a laige body of troc^ who entered into possession of these picturesque quar-ters shortly before we left Canton, and have remained in them ever

We had now been a fortnight in occupation of Canton, and fpund abundant employment, during the rest of our stay, in exploring the hitherto forbidden purlieus of that exclusive city. Lord Elgin seldom allowed a day to pass without visiting it, partly for the purpose of judging for himself of the temper of the people, partly from the pleasure he took in exploring its most hidden recesses, but prindjMdly to check, as &r as possible, by his personal influ* enoe, those excesses on the part of the troops so detrimental to the pobey he was determined to carry out Nor, in this latter respect, wen his efforts unavailing. The general thoroughly entered into the views of the plenipotentiaries, and, by his stringent orders, ef-ftctoaUy restrained the somewhat natural tendencies of the men in the exercise of what they considered their legitimate privilegea It is only &ir to state that, upon the whole, their conduct was in the highest degree creditable to the arm of the service to which they belonged.

A gun-boat, which the admiral had placed at Lord Elgin^s dis-pQsttkm, conveyed us daily from our anchorage, about three miles from the landing-place, to and from the city. This landing-place em presented a scene of picturesque confbsion. At low water, a surface of deep mud was exposed to view, over which we dragged in sampans by boatwomen, who kilted themselves

118 THE HALL OF EXAMINATION.

for the occasion, and shoved and waded with immense enei^ and perseverance for a few coppers each. The boat population was indeed the first to regain confidence, and each gun-boat, as it ar-rived, was surrounded by a swarm of importunate sampan-owners, whose love of filthy lucre soon overcame any patriotic scruples they might have had. Parties of seamen and sappers were en-gaged in constructing a pier, stores were being landed for the gar-rison, and athletic Chinamen, who formed the land-transport corps, were collected in groups round the burdens they were destined to carry to the front The services which these men had rendered fix)m the conmiencement of operations can not be too highly esti-mated; their conduct under fire proved that, properly disciplined and supported, the Chinaman was not deficient in personal cour-age ; while in their endurance and obedience they gave evidence of the most valuable qualities which go to make up the soldier.

The southeast angle of the wall was leveled, and a broad road made to it from the landing-place, so that an admirable line of communication conducted to every point occupied by our troops. Imnjediately within this angle the Hall of Examination, covering a great extent of ground, was the first striking object which met the eye. It consisted of a series of rows of cells on each side of a broad paved walk, not unlike the interior of a church, on a very large scale. Each row was separately tiled over, and divided into a quantity of stalls, about the size usually allotted to horses ; each of these was supposed, during the period of the pubUc examina-tions, to contain a student, the whole being calculated to accom-modate 8000 with lodging. Certainly there was not much to dis-tract their attention during the fortnight they were condemned to pass in these cells. A narrow passage separated them from the dead wall which formed the back of the next row, and thick par-titions rendered communication with their neighbors on either side impossible. It is necessary to pass through this examination in order to obtain a master's degree ; the only exception is made in favor of age ; and after a man has passed threescore and ten years, he is considerately allowed to take out the degree of honor-ary master. At the period of our occupation the passages were overgrown with weeds, and it bore all the marks of disuse and neglect The houses in the immediate neighborhood were wretch-ed in the extreme, and had suffered a good deal from the fire of our ships.

OPEN-AIB COOKEBT. 119

The ^^ Ayentie of Bene volence and Love/' or the great east and west street, was the principal thoroughfare of the city ; here it was that the shops first began to open, and the population to resume those street habits which are the same in eveiy Chinese town, and which were temporarily suspended by the capture of the city ; one after the other shop-boards came down, and the owners stood anilingly behind their counters, thankful, doubtless, that the con-tents which they had not had time to remove, were there to tempt their barbarian customers. As the taste of these latter for curi-osities became known, shops of this character multiplied with marvelous rapidity. ** Olo bronzes, and too muchee olo crackly China,*' were lavishly displayed ; and the crowds constantly col-lected at the doors of the shops proved that foreign purchasers were making rash investments within. At first it was not con* adervd prudent to move about unaccompanied by an escort, but this was ^xedily discontinued, and, with a revolver and a com-panion, we used to venture into any part of the city or suburbs.

As the ^^ Avenue of Benevolence and Love" was more fre-quented, it became a less agreeable lounge, and the already nar-row streets were still farther diminished in breadth by laige tubs full of live fish, baskets of greens, sea chestnuts, yams, and bam-boo root. Cooking-stoves were erected, and elaborately cooked viands hissed and sputtered on the heated iron, titillating with their savory odor the nostril of the hungry passenger. Open cop-pers steamed and bubbled, and delicate morsels danced on the sorfiioe ; round tables were daintily set out with pastiy of divers patterns, and presided over by croupiers, who jerked reeds in a box, or spun a ball something after the fashion of roulette, thus cnablmg the dinner-seeker to combine the exhilarating excite-ineot o( (he gambler with the epicurean enjoyment of the gour-mand, the consideration that they had cost him nothing adding additional zest to his gastronomic pleasures. It might so happen, on the other hand, that one unkind turn of the wheel of fortune sent him supperless to bed.

Xr>twithstandiDg the apparent gradual restoration of confidence, people for some time continued to pour out of the West Gate, without, however, making any pereeptiblo diminution in the SBioont of the population. It was singular to stand here and vatch this exodus, to observe the miscellaneous property which being conveyed by patient coolies, followed by anxious own-

120 JOSS-HOUSES OF CANTOJJ.

ers. Now a man passed with tables and chairs at one end of his stick, and two babies at the other ; coffins balanced pots of ma-nure ; and men transported articles which we should consider worthless, as carefollj as their wives ; nor, considering the gen-eral aspect of the female part of the population, was this wonder-ful, when to their natural ugliness is added the deformity of feet and apparent entire absence of arms — ^for a Chinese woman sel-dom makes use of the sleeves of her jacket ; anj thing more un-prepossessing than the lady part of the community could not be well conceived. In fex5t, after the first novelty has worn off, there is nothing to make a promenade in the streets of a Chinese town attractive. The fouiest odors assaQ the ol&ctories. The most disgusting sights meet the eye— objects 'Of disease, more loath-some than any thing to be seen in any other part of the world, jostle against you. Coolies staggering under coffins, or some* thing worse, recklessly dash their loads against your shins ; you suspect every man that touches you of a contagious disease ; and the streets themselves are wet, slippery, narrow, tortuous, and crowded. The best streets were those in the suburbs, at the back of the site of the foreign factories,,and which had formerly been frequented by foreigners. There the shops were gayer and more richly supplied; and the vertical shop-signs, gorgeously emblazon-ed in &ntastic characters, were more numerous and striking to the stranger's eye.

The factories themselves were a heap of ruins ; the only spot which could vie with their former site, as a scene of desolation, was Yeh's yamun, right in the line of the Cruiser's fire. The guns of that ship had effectually demolished the residence of the im-perial commissioner. The street of triumphal arches, in a line be-yond it, had also unfortunately suffered; many valuable book-shops had been destroyed, and four of the arches leveled. The same number, however, still remain ; they are massively construct-ed of carved granite, and covered with inscriptions. Though of elegant design and workmanship, they are not comparable to those which span the streets of Ningpo. The joss-houses at Canton were not remarkable for beauty of architectural design or ornament The handsomest was near the northeast angle of the wall ; the ex-terior was elaborately adorned with carved groups in relief over the principal entrance, and under the quaint tumed-up eaves the figures were gaudily colored, and reflected in looking-glasses let

FUTUBE PUNISHMENTS ILLUSTRATED. 121

into the frime^work which supported them. Many of the larger figures in tliese joss-hooses had been overturned, as a popular no-tion prerailed among the soldiers, which was not altogether with-out foundation, that within the portly persons of these deities treasure was often concealed.

Others of the joss-houses were more particularly dedicated to what is vulgarly known as '' Sing-sing joss-pigeon." A favorite lounge of the idler part of the population was the spacious court of one of these, situated close to the treasurer's yamun. Here ^inendict\ mimne^ balatrones, hoc geiitis omne^^^ collected daily ; gam* bling, fortune-telling, eating, and tom-toming went on perpetual-ly ; and public story-tellers kept gaping crowds entranced with the thrilling interest of their narrations, which were delivered with great volubility, accompanied by considerable play of feature, and with a loud, clear intonation. By way of a cheerful subject of contemplation for the public who frequented this haunt of ex-citenient« the tortures of the damned were exhibited in recesses all round the court-yard. Clay figures, about three feet high, like tlKW of terra-cotta to be seen in Italy, were represented in vari-ous attitudes inflicting or submitting to the most horrid penalties; men were being sewn up alive in raw bullock skins, women sawn asonder, and whole fSunilies were being stirred about as they sim-mered in huge caldrons. The tormentors invariably wore an ex-pression of countenance indicative of placid enjoyment, while the &oes of their victims, distorted with agony, were vividly portray-ed. Altogether the tableaux were worthy of the most lively in-quisitoml imagination.

During the first week of the occupation, bodies of men were marcbed through the different quarters of the city as patrols: it Ibund, however, that this served rather to alarm than to reas-the population ; while a lawless rabble, following dose in rear, took advantage of the confusion created to shoplift with a dexter-ity worthy of the swell-mob. An allied police was therefore sub-stitutefl for these patrols, composed partly of Chinese and partly of Englidi or French. Natives and foreigners were alike amused to obaeive a file of marines walking amicably side-by-side with a Be of Chinamen, the one headed by a sergeant, and the other by a petty mandarin, gracefully fimning himself. This scheme proved eminently succesafiil : European offenders were brought up and pmkhed by the tribunal ; while Pihkwei bastinadoed his own

122 PIHKWErS PROCLAMATIONS.

countrymeii witlx an unsparing vehemence, to prove his d^dre of cordial co-operation. The experiment of a naval alliance for the suppression of piracy did not turn out so happily, the Mandarin jmis taking the first opportunity, by escaping into the creeks, to dissolve the connection. As, in the course of his explorations, Mr. Parkes discovered some proclamations intended to inflame the population against foreigners, which evil-disposed persons were beginning to post up extensively, Pihkwei was ordered to issue notices to the head men of the districts, making them responsible for insulting or incendiary proclamations. The system of respon-sibility thus introduced is thoroughly in accordance with the Chi-nese plan of government. It was that pursued in the government of Canton with perfect success : it served the two-fold purpose of keeping Pihkwei constantiy in check, and of proving to the inhab-itants the absolute supremacy of our power.

Some of these proclamations were characteristic, and to the minds of the Chinese readers sufficiently novel and startling, after the inflammatory notices against foreigners to which they had been accustomed. In one the authorities call the people to ac-count for calling names : " Whereas," they say, " the Canton peo-ple have a habit, whenever they see a foreigner, of shouting out * Fan-kwei,' and otiierwise committing themselves, in utter viola-tion of all rules of proper demeanor, and of the conduct that is due from man to man, you forget that there is no distinction between natives and foreigners ; that foreigners are but as the people of other provinces ; and that there should be between you courteous intercourse and mutual concession ; tiiat you should not intention-ally show contempt for tiiem or stand aloof f]X)m them:" then it goes on to notice the practice of posting placards, and concludes by stating that, "This is to signify to all you, the people, that henceforth, when you meet foreigners in the streets, you must be-have to them civilly ; you must neither use the term * fen-kwei,' nor any other opprobrious expression. You are not either to post placards containing any thing offensive to foreigners. We, the authorities above mentioned, spare not to reiterate this caution to you. We, at the same time, command all police and constables to keep strict watch, and to seize those who transgress. If you offend, you will be punished with the utmost severity. Do not, therefore, pursue a course which you will repent when it is too late. Do not disobey. A special notification," Another proda*

FIHKWETS DISPATCH ON TRADE. 128

madon^ oondadiiig " Let every one tremble and obey/' was from Pihkwei, commanding servants who had left the service of Euro-peans at Hong Kong in consequence of the pressure applied by the government, to return to their masters.

Among those most anxious for the re-cstablishment of a settled order of things was the celebrated Chinese merchant Howqua, who, in the fullness of his desire for conciliation, invited some of us to luncheon with him one afternoon. His house in the sub-urbs had remained uninjured during the troubles, and was taste-fully but plainly furnished : he explained, however, that he pos-sessed another handsomer residence. We met here a blue-button mandarin and an ex-judge from the province of Sz'chuen. The latter was an enlightened man, and said that Yeh had only re-ceived what he deserved. Ilowqua regaled us with some de-licioos tea^ of course without milk or sugar, sj^d we afterward sat down to a light repast of preserves and fruits, our host doing the hooois with much courtesy and good-breeding.

But the Chinese merchants of Canton were not the only per-sons desirous of seeing commerce resumed. Most singular to state, Pihkwei wrote to Lord Elgin upon the same subject as fol-lows :* *" Still it is, without doubt, essential that, so fiur as trade is coneened, no time should be lost By every day that the open* tng of the port is accelerated, by so much is the restoration of public confidence accelerated, not only in the minds of the Chi-nese, but in the minds of the merchants in every nation as well. The conditions of trade would probably be in accordance with the old regulations under which imports and exports were enter-ed and inspected, and the duties on them paid. Your excellency 10. of course, thoroughly conversant with these. I would add thai, from the ninth moon of last year to the present time, a twdvemonth and more, the mercantile communities of both our nations have been subjected to los& The eagerness with which merchants will devote themselves to gain, if the trade be now thrown well open, will increase manifold the good understanding between oar nations, and the stop will thus, at the same time, en-hance your exoellency^s reputation.*^

Those who are fSuniliar with the normal state of our relations with Chinese mandarins at Canton will appreciate the change which most have been operated upon them when the governor

• Blae-Book, 24th oiJumarj, 1838.

I

t

124 FBOFOSAL TO BAISE THE BLOCKADE.

of the city approaclies a British minister as a suppliant for the re-establishment of that trade, in the prosecution of which it has been the policy of England so often to humiliate itself before China.

The allied plenipotentiaries were not unwilling to respond to this appeal. It was indeed true that fifteen months had already elapsed since the unfortunate incident occurred wich led to an in-terruption of our commercial relations with Canton ; the unsatis-factory state in which they had subsequently for some time re-mained ultimately resulted in the so-called blockade, which was established during Lord Elgin's absence in India. The embassa-dors were anxious to effect the speedy removal of this restriction, partly because, in the then state of our commercial relations with the other ports of China, its very existence was anomalous, and partly because the resumption of trade was the most effectual way of restoring that confidence to the population of Canton, on the establishment of which their policy in some measure depended.

The nayal authorities thoroughly concurred with them in this desire, and were no less anxious to put an end to a blockade which, while it tended to exercise a demoralizing influence upon the class of vessels specially employed in enforcing it, had failed in the object it was designed to accomplish. Instead of prevent^ ing all tiade with Canton, it had simply diverted it to the Broad-way and other channels not guarded by our cruisers. Thus it was both ineffectual and illegal ; a circumstance which fortunate-ly it did not occur to any neutral power to complain of.

The accomplishment of so important a measure involved a new set of considerations, and it behooved the embassadors to prepare for the contingencies which were likely to arise under the altered conditions of the situation.

DIFLOICACT IN CHINA. 125

CHAPTER 10.

CHAPTER X.

Pipla—cy m China. — ^Polkj of the nentral Powen. — Prapoied Ezpeditiaii to the S'orth.— 0|iiiikMi c/ Count Pootutine. — ProcUmation raising Blockade. — Patin-qna't Gardens. — Raver Scenes.— Lord Elgin's Visit to the Plisons. — State of the PriMMfm.— Fate of Yeh.— Lord Elgin's Letter to Tn.— Departure for Shanghai. — Amaj. — Anrral at Shanghai. — Departure for Soo-chow. — Fadlities of Water-cuTiBnalratioc. — Canal Scenes. — State of the PopnlatioiL — Mr. Madane's Visit to Soo-chow. — Boat-life on the Canals.

Thk pontion which the Chinese Empire has hitherto occupied with refeieooe to the rest of the world has alwajrs invested the coodoct of diplomatic relations in that country with peculiar dif-ficulties. Not only are questions of the most exceptional char-acter coostantly arising with the imperial gbyemment, but out of them STB often evolved complications in our intercourse with other European nations, which have no analogy elsewhere, and are unprovided fi>r by any principle of international law.

Thus the c^ture of one city in an empire, while we were trad-ing peaceably at others, was not a more abnormal proceeding than, the reopening to the commerce of other nations a port of which we retained military possession, and governed under martial law. Yet it was manifestly a condition of things out of which interna-tkioal difficulties might easily spring, more especially if there should chance to be any disposition to create them. No doubt we oonfined omselves to a strictly military occupation of the city ; clie custom duties were to be collected by Chinese officials, and pttid into the Chinese treasury ; still foreigners were not on the footing here as at other towns in the empire, and, within limits, placed themselves within the somewhat arbitraiy m of martial law. The suspension of diplomatic relations with the Imperial Com-Yeh, which had taken place in the autumn of 1856, had cauaed serious interruption to the commercial intcr-of other nations at Canton ; but so unanimous was the de-00 their part to take advantage of the opportunity then af-of renewing relations with the Chinese government under and more fitvorable conditions, that France, Bussia, and

126 PROPOSED EXPEDITION TO THE NORTH.

America sent out plenipotentiaries, whose very arrival in China, if it did not imply a tacit approval of our ground of quarrel, at all events evinced a determination to make it available for the attainment of the objects they desired.

So fer as France was concerned, she had her own grievance, and her policy was laid down without any attempt at mystery. "With Eussia ancj America, however, the case was diflferent. Not conceiving themselves entitled to the attitude of belligerents, they were driven, during the progress of hostilities, into a false posi-tion, from which the restoration of peace could alone relieve them. They were, however, so far fortunately placed that under no cir-cumstances could they be losers by a quarrel in which they were not involved, while they might derive equal advantages firom its results with those who were. As it had never been the policy of England to attempt to monopolize those advantages, and as a united pressure might more probably extort, without recourse to arms, those demands which the four nations were preferring in common, the time seemed to have come, in the opinion of Lord Elgin and Baron Gros, to invite the co-operation of the neutral powers, and thus not only to increase the moral pressure, but to avoid the chance of those difficulties, to which I have already al-luded, being raised.

The plan of operations which Lord Elgin had proposed for him-self, in the prosecution of his policy, was to proceed in the first instjance to Shanghai, and to invite a properly accredited minister to meet him there for the settlement of all questions in dispute be-tween the two countries. Shanghai being at a considerable dis-tance from the capital, and being, moreover, the place where the relations between foreigners and Chinese were of the most friend-ly character. Lord Elgin considered this proposal the most con-ciliatory which it was in his power to make. In the event of his not being so met, his intention was to push northward without delay, for the purpose of approaching Pekin as nearly as was practicable, with gun-boats of the lightest draught. This scheme he had already discussed with Count Poutiatine, whose local knowledge was of great assistance (see Blue-Book, 14th of No-vember, 1857, the Earl of Elgin to the Earl of Clarendon), in which his excellency says : " Count Poutiatine was veiy decided in the expression of his opinion that nothing could be done with the Chinese government unless pressure were brought to bear

OPINION OF COUNT POUTIATINR 127

upon Pekin itself^ and that the use of vessels drawing so little water that they ooold navigate the Peiho would be the best means of ^•Ir^ng sach pressure effective. The mandarins on the spot, if I rightly understood him, had, in conversation with him, ad-verted with exultation to the fact that our ships of war could not perform this feat I told him that wo were pretly strong in craft of the description to which he referred ; that we had, as he no doubt knew, a quarrel of our own in this neighborhood, but that, when that affair was concluded, we should be prepared to go northward in force, and very glad to be accompanied by the flags of other nations interested with us in extending commercial rela-tiofDs with China, and inducing that court to abate its absurd pre-tcnsons to superiority.''

In furtherance of Uiese views, Lord Elgin shortly afterward ad-dressed a communication to the admiral, requesting him to dis-patch the lightest draught gun-boats to the north for the purpose of " bringing pressure to bear at some point near the capital."*

Meantime, in answer to communications addressed to Mr. Beed and Count Poutiatine, those gentlemen at once cordially accepted the invitation to unite with France and England in the projected G^ieditioQ to the north, and, either at Shanghai or at a point Dearer the capital, press their common demands jointly on the cabinet of Pekin. It only remained now to issue a proclamation aimoancing the raising of the blockade, and to make the necessary arrangements for the reopening of trade. As Lord Elgin and Baron Groa did not participate in the general o])inion that this measore was premature, or believe in the almost universal prcdic-tioD that the raising of the blockade would not be the signal of the renewal of foreign trade, they determined to name the earliest day poeeible for the experiment It was settled that the consular flacn should be hoisted, and the customs levied by Chine«? officers at Whampoa ; while Canton itself, and its immediate suburl^s, with the exception of Honan, should remain under martial law, and noir l^ entered by Europeans under passports containing certain printed restrictions, to be granted by the aJlied naval and military anth^ritic^

On the 6th of February a notification was publishoil by the al-lifd commanders-in-chief^ announcing the raising of the bhxrkade, and the nomination by them of the mixe<l commission already

the EaH of Elgin to Adminl Seymour, fd of March, ISoS.

128 RAISING BLOCEADR— FATEE GARDENS.

mentioned, and consisting of Colonel Hollowaj, Captain Marti-neau, and Mr. Parkes, to preserve good order, and to inquire into infractions of their regulations, or of martial law, etc. And on the same day a &rther notification was issued by the plenipoten-tiaries, declaring " that the city and suburbs will continue in mili-tary occupation, and under martial law, until fisurther notice, but that hostile operations against China, except such as the com-manders-in-chief of the allied forces may consider it necessary to adopt for the security of their military position in Canton, are for the present suspended. With the exception of what was implied by the necessary clause announcing the suspension of our hostili-ties with China generally, no restriction whatever was placed upon the action of the allied commanders-in-chief, upon whom alone rested the responsibility of dealing with braves or disaffected pop-ulace as they should deem most expedient.

The 10th of February was the day fixed for the raising of the blockade ; and although, in consequence of the Chinese New Year, and the festivities incidental to it, the reopening of trade was de-layed for some weeks, the extent to which it increased within the next few months, and the fact that about one third of the exports were paid for in British goods, fiiUy justified the plenipotentiaries in their view of the expediency of the measure.

We had now spent two months in the Canton Eiver, and had ex-hausted the attractions of its banks and the resources of Canton. We had visited the Fatee Gardens, situated in a creek crowded with the boats which had taken refuge there on our occupation. Here box-trees were cut in the shapes of animals or dragons ; young bamboos were fantastically twisted; gaudy and sweet-scented flowers bloomed in rows of pots; quaint little bridges led over pools, the water of which was hidden by broad-leaved lan-guid lilies ; and grotesque pavilions surmounted rocky islets. All Chinese gardens partake of much the same character. About four miles from Canton is the country house of Putinqua^ deserted by its owner on the occasion of our visit, but veiy singular in its ar-rangement to European eyes. A tall white pagoda, situated on a rocky island, affords a bird's-eye view of several acres of water surrounded by a wall, with here and there islands and bridges, and pathways leading to them, paved and covered in with trellis-work, and overrun with creepers, and in the centre of all the man-sion of the owner, built on piles in the water, with drawbridges

RIVER 8CENE& 129

oommanicatiDg with the bedroomsy and caoalfl instead of passages. It was the principle of Yenice applied to a single residence.

As it was not safe to walk into the country for any distance, our exploimiioDs in the neighborhood of our anchorage were necessa-rily limited. Sometimes we visited the handsome nine-storied pagoda, which, from being slightly out of the perpendicular, is known as the inclined pagoda, about a mile distant ; at others ex-plored in m light boat the narrow creeks in the vicinity, where ezteoaive villages of junks and sampans lay concealed between banks cultivated with rice and water-chestnuts. The very exist-ence of m vast population within a short range of our ship was totally unsuspected ; some of these creeks were already bridged by TOWS of houses built over them on piles, the whole presenting a quaint and novel appearance. As these villages contained a lawless and desperate population, who in a great measure depend-ed for their Uvelihood upon river piracy, a distant walk involved a laxge party and revolvers. One day we captured a gang of eight of these plunderers rifling one of the Chinese bum-boats at-tached to the ships; they were kept in irons all night, and sent to Pihkwei next morning.

On another occasion we observed a portion of the population of a village turn out in pursuit of a gang who were escaping in a boat they had evidently stolen. The chase was a most exciting one, hot, unfortunately, night dosed in before we saw its results. Some of the gentlemen attached to the French embassy were at-tacked one evening in a sampan, and found it necessary to shoot one or two of their assailants with revolvers. Under these cir-comftanoes, expeditions, either afloat or ashore, were always in-vested with a tinge of excitement, which relieved the monotony of the ooeupation. For a few days we were employed in blowing up a monster brass gun, which had been left in one of the barrier torn taken by the Americana They had endeavored to remove this prize in vain, so it became our perquisite. A remarkable specimen of Chinese workmanship, it measured twenty-five feet in length, and more than five feet across the breeck

One of the most interesting incidents which occurred about this at Canton was the discovery, by Lord Elgin, of the public and the horrors which were disclosed induced him to re-strongly with Pihkwei on the subject The old man-darin was more roused by this act of inteiference on our part

I

180 I-OKD ELGIN'S VISIT TO THE PRISONS.

than by the capture of the city, and, in a letter he addressed to Lord Elgin, makes an indignant appeal to his excellencies " en-lightenment and rectitude," etc. " Woi;dd your exceUency," he asks, " hold it correct, or not, were I, for instance, without giving yoli information, to desire any one to remove, by force, British prisoners confined in a British jail ?" and he concludes pathetic-ally, " I am not a man greedy of life, and, sooner than be thus un-reasonably oppressed, I would gladly give my life to the state. The matter is of great importance ; and I write that your excel-lency may, when you have considered it, inform me without loss of time of the course to be followed. I avail myself of the occa-sion to wish your excellency the blessings of the season." *

But old Pihkwei was not so unreasonably oppressed as the wretched victims of Chinese legislation. Their condition has been graphically described by Mr. Cooke, who was present at their discovery. Pihkwei was therefore informed that, in spite of his sensitive feelings on the point, he must take the unhappy beings into a room in his yamun, where I first saw them, wan and emaciated, but slowly recovering under medical treatment; in return for which, their countenances expressed gratitude more strongly than I had supposed possible in a Chinese physiognomy. One boy had been so tightiy bound in a squatting position that he was unable to assume any other, while several of the men's legs and feet were a mass of bruises and ulcers, the effect of se-vere bastinadoing.

On the 7th of February the 70th native regiment of Bengal in-fantry landed. They were the first-fruits of our trip to Calcutta ; but at Canton their arrival was inaugurated by an unfortunate accident which occurred the same day, partly owing to their ig-norance of the regulations, and partiy to the impetuosity of a French patrol, which fired upon some stragglers engaged in col-lecting firewood and looking for cooking utensils, and shot three men. The arrival of this regiment was most opportune ; it was followed at a later period of the year by the 47th and 65th, also from Bengal, an accession of force which enabled the general to detach the 69th " Queen's" to the north at a critical point in the negotiations. Meantime, ever since his capture, Yeh had remain-ed a prisoner on board the " Inflexible" at the Bogue Forts. As his presence so near the scene of his exploits was supposed to

* Blue-Book, 17th of Jianaiy, Pihkwei to Earl of Elgin.

FATE OF TEH.^LOBD ELGHTS LETTER TO TU. 181

a distarfaing influenoe upon the minds of the Chinese popolatiiui, and as a useful ship was kept unemployed while serv* ing as his prison, it was decided that he should be sent to Cal-cattei where goyeinment were in the habit of accommodating po-litical state prisoneiB. Until he was informed of his fiite he seem-ed nerer thoroughly to have realized the fict that he was our prisoner, and had constantly expressed his astonishment at Lord Elgin's absence, and the postponement of those negotiations to conduct which he professed was his object in living on board the ^ Inflexible.*' He manifested not the slightest emotbn, however, on learning his destination, and expressed himself entirely satis-fied with any arrangement that was come to in his regard.

Meantime the four powers, acting in concert, had decided on addwesing a communication to Pekin, demanding a plenipoten-tiary pcasesBng full powers to treat on the several points speci-fied in their letters, to be sent to Shanghai, which was named as the place of negotiation in the first instance. In the event of an imperial commissioner not being sent there before the end of March, the allied embassadors declared it to be their intention to proceed to some point nearer the capital, witk the view of placing themselves more directly in communication with the high officers of the Chinese government

Lord Elgin's letter was addressed to Yu, the senior Secretary of Stale. It inclosed copies of the correspondence which had taken place with the imperial commiasioner ; explained the pres* ent positioQ of affiurs at Canton as resulting from the conduct of that fimetioDary ; announced the intention of the allied powers to cootinQe the occupation until those demands which we had re-served to oonelves the right to make, under the altered attitude of aiEun^ had been satisfied ; adverted in general terms to the na-ture of those demands, as having for their object the placing of oar rdations on a safer and more satisfiictory basia A resident ministfr at or near the court, a more extended intercourse throdgh-out the country, were the principal points insisted upon in addi-lioQ to those daxms for indemnity, to which we already consider-ed oarselves entitled. The letter concluded by stating that, in the event of no plenipotentiary presenting himself or presenting himself without sufficient powers, or proving unwilling to accede to reasoiiable terms of accommodation, the British plenipotentiary to himself the right of having recourse, without farther

182 DEPABTUBE FOB SHANGHAI.— AMOY.

announcement^ delay, or declaration of hostilities, to such meas-ures in vindication of the claims of his country on China as in his judgment it may appear advisable to adopt"

This letter was dated the 11th of February, or the day after the raising of the blockade; and on the following morning I left Can-ton in company with the Vicomte de Contades, the bearer of the French note, for Shanghai, for the purpose of having it forwarded with the least possible delay from that point to the capital The American and Bussian notes were dispatched by TJ. S. firigate Mis-sissippi about the same time.

If the reader is only as tired of Canton and its neighborhood as we were, I shall have the less scruple in requesting him to iac-company me to the north, more especially as no event of political interest occurred during the few weeks which formed the remain-der of Lord Elgin's stay in the south, and my own journey term-inated in a manner far more interesting than I could have antici-pated.

We reached Amoy in the Peninsular and Oriental Company's steamer Formosa on the morning of the 16th. Though only here for a few hours, we saw enough of Amoy to reconcile us to a speedy departure. A walk to the British consulate led us through the centre of the town, along streets narrower and more filthy than those of Canton, crowded as it so happened with a gayly dressed population, engaged in feasting and visiting at one another's houses, and celebrating the new year. ChOdren swad-dled in finery were borne about like bambinos, their mothers re-splendent in gaudy petticoats, glittering hoofs, faces powdered white, and hair bedizened with flowers of brilliant hues. Numer-ous toy-shops displayed, in tempting array, their fantastic con-tents, and the population seemed given over to merry-making. The British consulate is a handsome residence, situated under the waUs of the citadel, through which we afterwa^ walked, the Chi-nese guard betraying little interest or curiosity. The island of Amoy is a rocky barren spot, unattractive in a picturesque point of view, and owing its importance chiefly to the trade in tropical produce which it maintains with Singapore and the Straits. A good deal of sugar is also imported here from Formosa, and it has hitherto enjoyed the unenviable distinction of being the chief port of coolie emigration (so called) to Cuba and the West In* dies.

ASBIVAL AT 8HAN0HAL

183

At daylight on the morning of the 20th we found ourselves in the muddy waleni of the Yang-tse*Eaang, though out of sight of land, and reached Woosung the same afternoon. This is simply an opium station, and the European population is composed of the occupants of receiving-ships. It is only twelve miles from here to Shanghai. The banks of the river are flat Farm-houses

#Jr»j^

are sitaaied in clumps of trees, leafless at this time of year, and ranoun^jed by meadows ; and the whole aspect of the country very much resembles some parts of Holland. The wind was bi^ teriy ctM ; but the piercing blast, so far from bemg disagreeable, :*noduoed a most exhilarating effect upon systems more or less enervated by tropical heats.

That night we once more occupied the bedrooms of civiliza-tion, and reveled in the luxuries of carpets and curtains, crack-ling fires and warm blankets.

We found that the Taoutai or Intendant of Shanghai, the high-f^ Chinese official in that place, was absent on his annual New-Year risit to his superior officers, the governor of the province and the governor general of the Two Kiangs. As in his absence tliere was no functionary of a sufficiently high rank to intrust ▼ith the transmiffiion of letters of such grave importance to the ca|4taL it became a matter for our consideration whether we c«^ht not to deliver them in person to Chaou, the Governor of Kiangsu, to whom they were in the first instance addressed. This Lizb functiotiary resided at the celebrated city of SooKjhow, which, uer the occupation of Nankin by the rebels, has taken the rank ri the provindal city.

184 DEPABTUBE FOB SOO-CHOW.

The arrival of the Mississippi devolved upon us the chaige of the Bussian and American notes, and, upon consultation with Messrs. Bobertson and Montigny, the English and French con-suls, and the American YiceKX)nsul, it was decided that we should proceed thither without delay, accompanied by those gentlemen and their respective interpreters. As Soo-chow had rarely been visited by Europeans, and these generally only when disguised as Chinamen, or concealed from observation in boats, the success of our experiment was very doubtftd. Thus much, however, was certain, that if we were prevented from entering the city we should be met by the governor outside the walls, as in the case of the American commissioner, Mr. Madane, on the occasion of his visit in 1854. Mr. Lay, the Inspector of Customs at Shang-hai, whose knowledge of the language and local experience ren-dered him a most valuable addition to our party, also accompa-nied us*

We left Shanghai on the afternoon of the 24th. As the jour-ney was to be performed by water, and our party was a large one, our seventeen boats formed quite a formidable fleet; and, as our destination was not a mystery, a number of Chinese were collect-ed to see us start on so novel an expedition.

The whole delta of the Yang-tse-Kiang is intersected in every direction with water-communication, so that there were two ways of reaching Soo-chow: as some of our boats were of a laige draught of water, we did not adopt the shortest and most com-mon route, but continued for some distance up the River Wang-poo, on which Shanghai is situated. This accidental circumstance turned out the principal cause of our ultimate success. We an-chored for the first night at a pagoda a few miles above Shanghai, and observed a mandarin boat immediately moor in significant proximity to us. We subsequently discovered that the suspi-cions we entertained at the time were correct, and that our every movement had been nunutely recorded by a petty mandarin sent to watch us.

On the following morning we proceeded up the river, our prog-ress being somewhat retarded by the difficulty we found in keep-ing our squadron together. The river was about a quarter of a mile broad, the character of its banks remaining unchanged. About midday we left it, and turned into a broad canal. Where nature has provided such abundant water-communication, it is

CANAL SCENES. 185

diiBcalt to distingaisli what is artificial from what is naUual ; indeed, most of the chamielfl are a combination of both. No doubt it is in a great measure owing to the extraordinaiy Cei-cility which exists for the conveyance of produce in evexy direc-tioD thai the traffic does not appear so extensive as it really is, and as the density of the population would lead one to expect ScUl, although the canal on which we journeyed was in no degree crowded, the sails of numbers of junks were visible above the level ooontiy, through which they seemed impelled by some mys-terious and hidden influence. The population here is not so much collected into large villages as in the south, but is scattered over the countiy in farms and hamlets, imparting to the otherwise uninteresting scenery that air of domestic comfort and civilization which is more particularly the characteristic of Belgium and the Low Countziea.

Every where the population were industriously engaged in agriadtanl puiauits ; not an in'ch of ground seemed uncultivated, not a ic0ouice n^lected for increasing the fertility of the soiL Men in boats were scooping the rich mud from the bottom of the canals with primitive dredges made of baske^work, which opened and shut on the principle of snuffers; and as they vomited their contents into the bottom of the boat, they opened their wide jaws like some river monster disgoiging itself This mud was dis-charged into a receptacle for it on a level with the water, where the bank had been excavated for the purpose. Half way up the bank, one on each side of this hole, stood two persons, each hold* ing the end of a rope, to the middle of which was attached a bucket, which they ducked into the mud below, and then jerked to the lop of the bank, where it was received in troughs and car-ried away to manure the fields. Such and many other novel and ingenious contrivances we observed employed by the labor-en with whom the fields teemed, and who were so absorbed by their occupation that nothing less exciting than the appearance of a posse of barbarians would have interrupted their labors. One ooold not help maldng the unenlightened and antiquated political reflection that the introduction among them of £u-enterprise and discoveries would be a doubtful boon to who seemed to possess all the elements of material pros-perity« and who so richly deserved whatever comforts they had ob-tained by their industry and ingenuity. Of course it was impos-

136 STATE OF THE POPULATION.

sible for the mere passer to do more than guess how far they en-joyed substantial happiness, and how thfe system of government under which they lived might aflfect their domestic comfort.. I have heard precisely opposite opinions expressed on the subject by persons whose long residence in the country, and knowlaige of its language and government, entitled their authority to re-spect.

According to my own observation, however, the condition of the population varies as much in different parts of China as in the British dominions, and it would be as unfair to judge of the merits of the government, or of the general state of the population of the empire, by the people of Chili or Kiangsu, as it would be to form any like general theory in our own country, one way or the other, by the counties of Tipperary or Kent.

We passed numerous junks flying little yellow flags, to indicate that they were loaded with their annual tribute of rice. These junks were private, but pressed for the time into the service of the government. Toward evening we reached and crossed the Lake of Meaou, a shallow sheet of water, but of considerable ex-tent. The opposite shore was not visible from the point at which we entered.

We continued our voyage during the greater part of the night, and observed strings of lanterns hoisted upon poles, which we supposed to be signals of our progress. Next morning I was told that a mandarin had been on board the boat of the American Vice-consul, and informed him that the governor Chaou was wait-ing for us at the village of Kwan-shan, upon the other route from Shanghai, where he had held his interview with Mr. Maclane, the plenipotentiary of the United States. This was a piece of inform-ation which we were determined to ignore, as it proved the exist-ence of a strong desire on the part of the authorities to prevent our entering Soo-chow, and of binding us by the same precedent (which we had determined, if possible, to breakthrough) on which, they had insisted in the case of the American minister. Some light has been thrown on this event by the papers seized in Yeh's yamun at Canton. Among them is the memorial of Iliang, Gov-ernor General of the Two Kiangs, upon the subject of his interview with Mr. Maclane at Kwan-shan, in which that functionary states that) in reply to Mr. Maclane's request to be allowed to deliver a letter in person, he wrote as follows : " If the chief (Maclane) de-

BOAT-LIFE ON THE CANALS. 137

sired to presoit a letter from his government in person, he should follow the preoedei\t furnished last year in the case of Marshall — hasten back to Shanghai, and there wait till Wu-kien-chang should bring him to Kwan-shan to introduce him. In obedient accord-ance with the above reply, the chief did presently turn back, and having transferred himself to a native vessel, was brought, on the 2J)th of the 5th moon, to Kwan-shan by Wu-kien-chang. Your slave, having with him Ping-han, the acting Prefect of Soo-chow, for long employed in that department, and thoroughly versed in boAneas, had started from Soo-chow on the 24th, and also arriving at Kwan-shan on the 25th, on the following day assembled the of-ficials pnaent in the public hall of Kwan-shan, and summoned the chief to come forward and pay his respect& The chief's manner, it most be admitted, was reverential," etc., etc. Then follows a detailed aoooant of the audience, and the arguments used by Uiang to diasoade Mr. Madane from visiting the Peiho.

Having been favored by fair winds, wc made good progress. Most of oar boats sailed admirably, the tall masts giving our enonnoos flat sails such an elevation that we glided rapidly thiottgh the water under the influence of light airs. The weath-er was lovely. In the early morning a thick hoar-frost covered the fields ; at midday it was pleasant to sit on the deck and bask in the sunshine; and at night, to retire into the snug cabin, stir the coal fire in the stove into a bright glow, and enjoy our cigars together after dinner, preparatory to separating for the night to our respective boats. Wc usually stopped for breakfast and din-ner, and all met in a boat reserved expressly for a common din-ing-room. I was indebted to my kind host at Shanghai, Mr. Mon-crexflC for a most comfortable boat Indeed, the circumstances imder which I made my first experiences of traveling in the in-terior of China were calculated to impress me most favorably ; and, now that the whole of this- vast continent is about to be thrown open by treaty to European exploration, there can be lit-tle doabt that the great facilities of transit which its net-work of water-communication affords will bo duly appreciated. Seldom, indeed, docs it fall to the lot of tlie adventurous traveler in an un-known country to pursue the work of discovery surrounded by ao many of the appliances of comfort and civilization as he may eojoT when engaged in the *' exploitatioti'^ of the Celestial Empire.

188 THE TMPTCRTAT. GRAND CANAL.

CHAPTER 11.

CHAPTER XI.

The imperial Grand Canal.— Arriyal at Soo-chow.— Entiy of the City.-— Ciuiositj of the Populace. — ^Reception by the Governor. — ^A complimentary Dlalogae.— A Chinese official Repast.— Politeness of our Host. — Chinese Etiquette. — Political Effect of our Visit. — ^Reasons against exploring the City. — ^Exploration of dte Water Suburb.— The Boat Population. — ^Manners and Customs of the People.— A nocturnal Visitation.— The Tai-hoo Lake.— A Gale of Wind.— Residence at Shanghai. — ^A Dinner with the Taoutai. — ^After-dinner Conversation. — ^Departoie for Ningpo. — ^Ningpa — ^The Shops and Joss-houses. — ^The old Pagoda.

When day broke on the morning of the 26th, it showed ns the walls and pagodas of Soo-chow, distant about three miles. In order to deprive the governor of the power of saying, at any fu-ture time, that we had taken him by surprise, and slipped into the town in an undignified manner, M. de Gontades concurred with me in deeming it prudent to write a joint letter to his excel-lency, informing him of our proximity to Soo-chow, which we followed in about two hours afterward

We had entered the imperial grand canal during the night, and were now proceeding along that once celebrated channel of the internal commerce of the empire. Since the bursting of its banks by the Yellow Biver, and the destruction in consequence of a section of this canal, it has not been used for the last five years. The vast supplies of grain which were annually conveyed along it to the capital are now sent in sea-going junks from Shanghai, and other ports of the Yang-tse-Kiang, round the promontory of Shantung, and up the Peiho Biver. The expenses incidental to the rebellion have prevented the government from spending any money in repairing this magnificent work. The consequence is, that the enormous imperial grain-junks formerly employed now line the bank in a rotting condition. They are singular specimens of naval architecture, of immense solidity, and capable of trans-porting from two to three hundred tons of rice each. They look like so many stranded arks going to decay : this is their inevi-table destiny, as the pro&ne vulgar are not allowed to touch im-perial property. Their valuable timbers were crumbling and worm-eaten, and, in some instances, their decks grass-grown.

cuBiosnr of the populace. 139

We lowered our tapering masts to pass under a veiy Iiandsome atone bridge, which spanned the canal in a single arch, and short-ly alter reached the southeast angle of the cily wall. The view from this pobt was very remarkable. The city is built in the shape of a perfect square, each side four miles in length. On two sides the grand canal washes the waUs, and on the other sides two smaller canals complete the square. We were at the junction of one of these with the grand csmal, which extended before us, cov-ered with boats and lined with houses, but at right angles to the left no suburb interrupted our view of the four miles of canal and wall which stretched in one unbroken line over the vast plain. Uere a messenger arrived, saying that the governor was on his way to meet us, and suggesting that we should wait for him ; but, anxious to get inside the city waUs, we pressed on, threading our way in line along the densely thronged canal, and attracting to its banks and the roofs of the houses crowds of eager spectators, not aocustomed to see British, French, and American flags flaunt-ing impudently under their very windows

We appeared so suddenly beforo the water-gate called "Foo-mun** that the officials, had they wished it, would scarcely have had time to shut it However, they contented themselves with making the most frantic gesticulations and expressive signs to us to turn back ; but we put on^ an air of the most obtuse stolidity, and pushed vehemently on ; my boat, which happened to be lead-ing, earrying away in the hurry some of the grille which formed part of the gate. Onoe in the city, we did not venture on an ex-ploration of the lanes of water, which, like those of Venice, opened up in direa directions, but moored at onoe in a retired spot under the waUs. We were not long, however, left in quiet Almost immediately a dense crowd collected on both sides of the cana], deeply interested in the proceedings of the barbarians, When-erer any of us moved from one boat to another, a general titter of astonishment and curiosity was heard ; but they manifested no semblance of dislike or hostility toward us, and were infinitely more respectable in their behavior than an English mob would have been under similar circumstances.

We had not been long moored here before the " Foo,^ a blue-botaon mandarin, came with a message from the governor to Mr. lAy« who was an old acquaintance of his, requesting to sec him at the west gate. In about two hours this gentleman returned

140 RECEPTION BY THE GOVEENOK.

the welcome intelligence that the governor would receive ns at his yamun in the centre of the city, and would immediately send down chairs for us to a neighboring wharf. Accordingly, we pro-ceeded, the same afternoon, to the appointed place, the whole party, with the exception of M. de Contades and myself, being in uni-form. We were received at the wharf by a guard of soldiers, and were accompanied by them during our progress in chairs through the city. We thus traversed a distance of about two miles. The streets throughout were lined with spectators; the windows, house-tops, and bridges were thronged with an eager and excited popu-lace, who gazed with the most extraordinary earnestness at prob-ably the first barbarians they had ever seen in their lives. So rapt in contemplation of these unknown specimens of humanity were they, that I did not even see them criticising us to one an-other, much less did they manifest any signs of hostility or con-tempt toward us. With mouths and eyes at utmost stretch, they stared in perfect silence. I observed many women among the croTi|fd. Soo-chow is celebrated throughout China for the beauty of its women, and certainly those I saw did not belie its reputa-tion. In no other part of the empire have I seen such fair com-plexions or regular features. In Canton the women are absolute-ly hideous ; in the north they may be good-looking, but it is very difficult to catch a passing glimpse of them, so shy are they of bar-barians ; but in Soo-chow they love both to see and be seen, and with good reason. The Chhiese proverb surely lacks wisdom which says, "To be happy on earth, one must be bom in Soo-chow, live in Canton, and die in Liauchau ;" which they explain by saying that those bom in Soo-chow are remarkable for person-al beauty, those who live in Canton enjoy the richest luxuries of life, and those who die in Liauchau easily obtain superior coffins from the excellent forest-trees which are there abimdant

We were received at the yamun by the usual Chinese salute of three guns, and passed through the several courts between rows of soldiers and attendants, drawn up in line and dressed in a spe-cies of livery. The governor met us with great politeness at tbe door of the audience-hall, and seated M. de Contades and myself on the raised estrade, which usually forms the centre of a semi-circle of chairs on these occasions, and is considered the seat of honor. The governor himself took a seat to our right, which, in this land of ceremonies, was considered an additional compliment^

A CX>MPLIMENTABT DIAIiOGUE. 141

iniMiniich as the fiuther you are to the left of your host the more highly honored is your position. Then follows an elaborate in-terchange of compliments, when the visitor resigns himself entire-1 J to the good offices of the interpreter, who in all probability throws them into somewhat the following shape.

gentleman, who has never seen his Chinese host before, liis pleasure at meeting him. Inlerprder. ** His excellency has long looked forward to this day."

Chinem Dignitary. " I meet him now as an old friend, and re-quest to know his honorable age."

/fit " Ilis excellency has profitlessly passed — years." Chin. Dig. '^ The ears of his excellency are long, and betoken great ability.''

InL ^ Ah ! oh ! He is unworthy of the compliment" Chin. Dig. '' You have had an arduous journey 7" InL " We deserved it"

Chin. Dig. ** I trust your honorable health is good." ItU. '* Relying on your happy auspices, his excellency's health is still robust" InL *' The great emperor of your honorable nation, is he well ?" CAjVa. Dig. " lie is well. The great sovereign of your honor-aUe oataon, is she well ?"

InL *^ She is welL Do the troublesome pests (rebels) still infest the country 7"

Chi9L Dig. '' The insects are being speedily exterminated."

Such, I have little doubt, was the tone of conversation which

Mr. Meadows and Chaou kept up for a few minutes, until we went

on to infimn his excellency that we were the bearers of notes for

the prime minister Yu from the four powers, which were of the

Qtmost importance, and which, we trusted, he would lose no time

in fimrarding, as delay in their transmission might seriously com*

promise the interests of the empire. The covering dispatch to

himself ha opened and read, a crowd of attendants collecting

roond him and making themselves acquainted with its contents

CfwtT his shoulder. As we desired that the whole proceeding

should be invested with as much publicity as possible, this mode

of ooodocting business, though rather unusual in Western dipio*

quite in accordance with our wishea

We were now conducted to a recess, and invited to partake of

142 A CHINESE OFFICIAL R£FAST.>-P0LITENE8S OF OUR HOST.

an extensive display of firoits, pastiy, and preserves, first, however, bging invited to uncover our heads by our host, who says, " Will you elevate the cap?" On which he is answered, ''We are be-having in a scandalously outrageous manner ; forgive our crime ;'* by which we mean elegantly to apologize for the liberty we are taking in sitting down bareheaded. Then we engage in general conversation, in the course of which Chaou makes sundry inquiiies as to the condition of Canton, wishes to know whether we are go-ing to kill Yeh, and when the embassadors are coming north. He also, in true Chinese style, indulges in a little quiet irony at the expense of us all, though ostensibly directed at our worthy consul, Mr. Robertson, who, he says, must be glad of having such a good opportunity of seeing the celebrated city of Soo-chow ; but Mr. Bobertson protests that Chaou himself is the only sight worth looking at Certainly a man who is governor of a province con-taining thirty-eight millions of inhabitants, with a power of life and death, is not an eveiy^y individual, and yet he is only the subordinate of the Governor General of the Two Eiangs, who, in his turn, is a responsible officer.

Chaou was the best specimen of a Chinese gentleman I had yet seen in China: nothing could be more dignified or courteous than his manner, and this at a time when a most disagreeable commis-sion had been confided to him. But a Chinaman has wonderful command of feature ; he generally looks most pleased when he has least reason to be so, and maintains an expression of imper-turbable politeness and amiability when he is secretly regretting devoutly that he can not bastinado you to death. On this occa-sion our accomplished host overwhelmed us with civilities, con-structed pyramids of delicacies on our plates, and insisted on our drinking a quantity of hot wine, obliging us to turn over our glasses each time as a security against heel-taps.

Chaou's yamun was a far handsomer residence than any simi-lar official abode in Canton. The interior was invested with an air of comfort unusual in China, the walls nicely papered, and the floor carpeted. The whole establishment had been recently put into good order, and was altogether a fit residence for so elevated a functionary.

At last we " begged to take our leave," and began violently to " tsing-tsing," a ceremony which consists in clasping your hands before your breast, and making a crouching baboon-like gesture.

CEOKESE ETIQUETTE. 143

It is the equiTalent of shaking hands, only one shakes one's own hands inslesd of another person^s, which may or not have its ad-vantages : in China the custom of the country is the preferable one. This is followed by a scene very like that which occurs on similar occasions among ourselves. Our host insists upon follow-ing us to our chairs. We remonstrate — " Stop, stop, stop, we are unworthy,** say we. *' What language is this ?" he replies. " We really are unworthy," we reiterate. '* You are in my house," he insists; and so we hack to our chairs, perpetually imploring him not to trouble himself by accompanying us, which he vehement-ly resists, until at last, when we are in our chairs, he reluctantly consents to return, apologizing to the last for being so rude as to leave us even then. It is just possible that, uiider the circum* fTlani*fff, his satisfaction at getting quit of us had as much to do with this ^empreasement" as his sense of politeness.

It was dark when we returned to our boats ; and so much had happened to excite and interest, that, even had it not been, I was not in a humor to engage in the work of accurate observation. Our expedition had terminated, after a good deal of anxiety, in oooplete success. For the first time in its history, barbarians had made an official entry into Soo-ehow, and we hoped that this re-soli would not be without an important political effect In a country where eveiy thing is established by precedent, a victory had been gained over Chinese exclusiveness, which, in the exist-ing state of our relations with the empire, might be significant of a disposition to yield at last to that Western pressure which for so many yean has been so successfully resisted. So wonderfully jealoQs are Chinese of foreigners entering their cities, that one of the first requests made to us by Chaou was that we should leave the dty immediately afier the interview, which we agreed to do.

Although it was late before we reached our boats, we determ-ined to keep our faith, and shifted our berth to a wharf outside the west gate, opposite a yamun at which we had invited Chaou to breakfast with us on the following morning. This ceremony, and aD the forms of etiquette which it involved, took place at the appointed hour; but there was an addition to the party in the person of the Taoutai of Shanghai, who had just returned from a froitlesB expedition to Shanghai in search of us, by the short lOQte, for the purpose of meeting us, and so preventing our reach-ing Soo^how. We enjoyed a quiet laugh at his expense, and he

144 EXPLORATION OP THE WATER SUBURB.

no doubt was firmly convinced that we had designedly effected a very clever strategic manoeuvre. We plied both our guests with quantities of Champagne in return for the hot wine we had im-bibed, at the peril of our constitutions, on the previous evening.

After breakfast we expressed ourselves satisfied with the re-ceipts Chaou had sent us for the dispatches we had delivered to him, and our guests got into their chairs amid a profusion of re-grets and civU speeches.

Had we pressed the point, there can be little doubt that we should have been allowed to visit the principal objects in the city under favorable circumstances; but many reasons combined to render this inexpedient at the time, and among them the justifi-cation which it would have afforded to the govemor^s insinuation that we had taken advantage of a political mission to gratify an idle curiosity ; so, to our great disappointment, we deemed it best to content ourselves with this transient glance of this interesting city, famed as the birthplace of beauty, and the cradle of all that is refined, elegant, and &shionable in the empire. We were even unable, as we passed through the streets, to judge of the shops, so dense was the crowd ; and the only remarkable feature I could catch in passing was the numerous canals intersecting it in every direction, spanned, rialto fashion, by high single arches, and with houses rising out of the water as in Venice.

I observe that Mr. Fortune has added as little to our previous limited knowledge of Soo-chow as I have, but he is less excusa-ble, as he seems to have resided there for some time in the dis-guise of a Chinaman. That thei^ is much iuteresting information connected with this celebrated city may be inferred from the fact that a Chinese work, called the Soo-chow-foo-chi, in forty octavo volumes, is devoted to an account of its history, monuments, etc. Chaou told us that he estimated the population at about three millions.

As I was anxious to visit the large lake of Tai-hoo in the vi-cinity of Soo-chow, I parted from my companions shortly after breakfast. I regretted extremely that it was not in M. de Con* tades' power to accompany me, as I had found in that gentleman not only a most agreeable companion, but a colleague whose en-ergy and tact largely contributed to the successful issue of our undertaking. He returned dir^t to Shanghai, while Mr. Lay and I proceeded, in the first instance, to explore the principal water-suburbs of the city. We followed the grand canal for about two

THE BOAT POPULATION. 145

iniltt. As &r M I ooald judge, its average breadth was about 100 jmrdB, but it ia aomewhat difficult to form a veiy accurate estimate on this subject, as the water is so concealed bj boats, and the resi-deooes of the aquatic and terrestrial population so much resemble one another, that it is not always easy to tell where the water ends and the land begins. A narrow lane was kept clear for timfEc; and along it passed innumerable craft of every description. There were as many different varieties of boats here as there are of vehicles in Fleet Street, and the water*way was as inconven-iently crowded as that celebrated thoroughfare usually is. Ferry-boats plied as briskly and were as heavily loaded as omnibuses : heavy cargo^boats lumbered along and got in every body's way, just as biewen' drays do. Light tanka-boats, with one or two paasengeis, and deftty worked by a single oar astern, cut in and <mt like hansoms. And there were lai^ passage-boats with ac-commodarion for travelers on long joume3rs, that plied regularly between Soo-chow, Hang-chow, Chang-chow, and other distant cities, and thai created the same sort of sensation as they passed as did the Brighton Age or Portsmouth Telegraph in days gone by. Gentlemen's private carriages were here represented by gor-geoos mandarin junks, with the huge umbrella on the top, and a fpong at the entrance to the cabin, beaten at intervals by calfless flunkies. Other junks there were, more gaudily painted even than these, from whence issued shrill voices, and sounds of noisy Isaghter and music. There was the costermonger in his humble nbsdtute for a donkey-cart, a small covered canoe, which looked like a ooiBn, and in which he sat alone, forcing it speedily through the water with a pair of oars, one of which he worked astern with his hsnd,and the other at the side with his feet The race of .scavengers lived in flat punts, and, scooping up the mud and rub-bish from the bottom of the canal, discharged it into them, where It was immediately examined by a number of ducks kept on board tor the purpose, who picked out all that was worth eating, and what they rejected was then inspected by their owners for wai6 and strays that had been lost from junks, and then taken to &tten tlie land But the most curious appearance was presented by the which carried the fishing cormorants, solemnly perched in ave rows on stages projecting from the sides ; they looked like a number of gentlemen in black on the platform at a meet-ing of a grave and serious character.

K

146

UANNERS AKD CUSTOMS OF THE PEOPLE.

We had passed round three sides of the <aty, and yet I was no more tired of ohserving and watching the manners and customs of the inhabitants than they were of obserring mine. Nor, un-fortunately, can I be sure that I am giving a more accurate de-scription of them than they would of me; in a country like China, the traveler can trust less to first impressions than in any other; when nothing is superficial, a superScial survey can not be de-pended upon. Every minute detail in their manners and habits of life bears the stamp of antiquity, has had its origin in some excellent reason, and possesses a special adaptability to the par-pose for which it is designed, which is not at first sight apprecia-ble by an utter stranger. One gazes at a party of Chinamen at work very much as one wonld at beavers or bees. Their results are startling, and their mode of arriving at them defies imitation by an ordinary mortal.

Turning sharp out of the grand canal, we passed down a nar-rower one, under high bridges, between tall houses with tumed-up eaves, and balconies full of people, and quaint gates and arch-ways covered with moral inscriptions, and so into the open coud-try, where our men jumped out upon the paved towing-path, and dragged us rapidly between interminable green fields, stretching

A NOCTURNAL VISITATION. 147

to the horizon, except in the direction we were going, where a range of low hills, purpled by the setting sun, gave promise of an approach to the picturesque. We met numbers of other boats being tracked in like manner, and passed under high single-arch* ed bridges, like those the pictures of which first imbued our in-fantine minds with notions of Chinese quaintness in the willow-pattern p]ate« I only observed one which was of a different con-struction in a town through which the canal passed : it consisted of three arches, and on the middle one a building was erected with a twisted roof, and crowds of people gazed at us from be-neath it We observed here the commencement of those fields iif mnlberry-trees, which, extending throughout the departments of Riashing and Iloo-chow, render these the most celebrated silk-pnxlacing districts in the province.

Just as we were going to bed we were aroused by shouts which called US on deck to witness a most romantic sight : a full moon was lighting up the silent water-ways of a picturesque old town, Ml <^ bridges and gaunt houses ; the canal was so narrow that we had great difficulty in squeezing past the few boats already moor-ed in it ; firom its edge rose houses three stories high, completely shotting in dark mysterious lanes, which turned off in every di-rection, allowing only here and there a gleam of silvery light to play upon the surface of the water. The inhabitants, unused to JO late a visitation, peered curiously at us from their latticed win-•lowa, and bright rays shot across our gloomy paths as one after the other these were opened. The stream was strong against us, the street was a long one, and as there was no towing-path, it was some time before we had punted through it, and were clear of the long shadows of its lofty houses. We reached the edge of the lake shortly after this, and anchored for the night

The morning was still and foggy, and the shores of the lake were ooocealed from as in almost every direction ; we were five boon sailing slowly across to a high projecting promontory, call-ed Tong-ting-shan. Ascending the hill — for the day had cleared — ^we had an extensive view : not far distant a high-wooded isl-and aeemed to float on the still surface of the lake, and beyond it the blue outline of the mountains that formed the opposite shore were dimly visible. At our feet, skirting the bay, lay the secluded little village at which we had landed, embowered in trees, above which curled wreaths of smoke ; a spur of the promontory sepa*

148 A GALE OF WIND.

rated it from another village which seemed the twin bro the first, so exactly did it resemble in situation and esiten descended into it, and were, of course, immediately suttoue the whole population. They were perfectly good-humc manner, and when we threw handfuls of copper cash. anion| the juvenile community indulged in a universal scramble, in some of the elders even condescended to join. I would ' have spent another day on the Tai-hoo, but was a&aid of n the mail from Shanghai ; so we returned in time to pass tl our old town of the night before by moonlight again, an< diverged from our former route.

In the middle of the night I was disturbed by a violent s to which I was indebted for a view of a £unous bridge acr< expansion of the grand canal, mentioned by Mr. Ellis, in I acount of Lord Amherst's Embassy, as having ninety arch< only counted fifty-three, and the ^moonlight was so bright 1 do not think I was mistaken in the number. The next da entered the Meaou Lake again, and crossed it with a £ur wiz company with a large and picturesque fleet, which must been composed of some hundreds of junks. This breeze fret ed into a gale the day after, and involved a tough beat dowi river to Shanghai. My canal-boaSt, so delightftd in cahn wea was by no means adapted for such an emergenpy : having no ] she was extremely crank, and whenever she went about, e^ thing loose in the cabin fetched away ; and, to crown all, ^ they were jumbled in picturesque cox^sion on the floor, stove upset, and shot its contents of glowing coals into the mi< of them. As this was close to Shanghai, I narrowly escaped nalizing my return to that place by a grand conflagration.

I remained for ten days at Shanghai, enjoying the hospita of its merchant princes, and the invigorating effects of its brae winter climate. Of all the spots upon the coast of the Celes Empire at which Europeans have established themselves, it is ( tainly the pleasantest as a residence. With a society almost numerous as Hong Kong, there is much agreeable social int course, owing, no doubt, in a great measure, to the &ct that it is 1 Ultima Thule of civilization, and has not yet been forced into € clusiveness by miscellaneous hordes making it a house of ca! while, as a foreign commimity in a distant land, it is not subjc ta those political dissensions which so often distract our own col

RESmSNCE AT SHANGHAI. 149

There ia, moreover, an air of substantial prosperity about Shanghai, whidi occasionallj expands into magnificenoe, and dis-plajB ttadf in palatial residences, and an expensive style of living ; bfat there is also, unhappily, a gloomy side to the picture, and there are yean when an unfortunately heavy venture in silk on the part of the community results in a corresponding reduction of crinoline.

Situated on the fiat bank of the river, Shanghai owes none of its charms to the picturesque ; but the handsome houses which line the shore for a distance of two miles give it an imposing ap-pearance as approached from the sea. The English section of the town, though not confined exclusively to British subjects, is the largest It lies between the French and American. Each of these different quarters is inhabited by subjects of other countries. The boondaiy of the French concession is the city walL The city ta about three miles in circumference, and contains a population «tf about 800,000. As all the Chinese towns of its class are so like each other as to be almost undisdnguishable, and have been repeatedly described, I will only say of Shanghai that it is chiefly celebrated fior old China, inlaid copper, and other objects of ^Wir-to,^ which it imports from SooHshow to meet the European demand. It has suffered a good deal from the occupation of the rebels, and its oooe famous tea-gardens are now a mass of grotesque rock-work and debris, but little frequented, and which, in their best days, must have been rather quaint than pretty.

I WIS glad to have an opportunity at Shanghai of renewing my aequaintaaoe with the Taoutai, whom I found to be a person of oooaidenhle intelligence and enlightenment One day I dined with him, and partyok, not of a flimsy refection, such as those otnally offered on such occasions, but of a good substantial re-beginning with bird's-nest soup, followed by shark's fins, de mer^ and other indescribable delicacies, as entrt-es, then mitttOD and turkey, as pikes de resistance^ carved at a side-table in A chrilized manner, and handed round cut up into mouthfuls, so that the refined chopstick replaced throughout the rude knife and of the West We may certainly adopt with advantage the elegant custom of China in this respect ; and as we have to carve the joints in dishes, make the next step in advance, no longer cut up slices of them in our plates. There, how-r, we might stop: the usage of stretching across the table, and

150 A DINNER WITH THE TAOUTAI.

collecting a heap of delicacies from every dish ia your ii€ plate, as a mark of politeness, is decidedly objectionable, of the dishes were so constructed as to admit of a siaall i fire in the centre, so that the soup or viands surrounding kept constantly warm. There were wines of different q but principally extracted from millet-seed, and always warm ; and after dinner some very strong but delicately f tea, called.red, which answers the purpose of coffee as a di^ and simply differs from the green in being subjected for t longer time to the steaming process. The green tea, whici least powerfiil and most refreshing, is a milder infusion, tl being slightly dried over a fire and still green. This was ed by some delicious almond tea. The guests upon the oc were Mr. Bobertson, Mr. John Meadows, and myself the 11 ting or prefect) and the principal military ^landarin in Sha The conversation turned chiefly on a comparison of the dij administrative systems of England and China, interspersed the most fulsome compliments, with now and then a feeler tl out by the Taoutai on the subject of existing troubles, whc endeavors to conceal his desire to gain as much informati possible on our probable policy were highly diverting.

I did not venture to broach a subject to his excellency on m I was no less anxious to be informed. Shanghai is the prin port for the export of the annual supply of rice to the n< Thousands of junks bound for the mouth of the Peiho leave river in successive fleets during the spring months, and it was portant that we should know the intentions of the Taoutai for ensuing year, and discover, if possible, the quantity of grain t exported, and the different ports at which it was to be coUec as well as the date of the earliest departure. In the event of finding it necessary to operate in the north, one of the most portant means of pressure which could be brought to bear uj the capital was by intercepting this supply, which it would be our power to do, with a few gun-boats in the Gulf of Pechel At this time thft river opposite the town was covered with a dei forest of the masts of junks, all waiting for clearances to Tients We were afterward informed by the custom-house authorities th the amount of rice to be sent to the north from Shanghai aloi was about 800,000 piculs.

As Lord Elgin was expected at Ningpo fix)m the south aboi

DBPABTUBE FOB NINOFO.

161

this time, I proceeded thither in the dispatch gan-veasel Surprifle to meet him. At midday on the 14th of March we reached the moath of the Ningpo River, having run over in about twenty-foor hoani. After the dead level of the valley of the Yang-tse-KianfT. the approach to this river is sufficiently picturesque. To the right a bold promontory, about 200 feet in height, surmount* ed by a fort, overlooks the city of Chinhae, the walls of which ex* tend along both the river-bank and sea-shore ; numbers of junks block op the passage, and render great skill in steering necessary. Most of these are loaded with timber from Fokien, and their un-flghtly burdens extend on either side for some distance, almost ooDoealing the junk itself^ and giving it somewhat the appearance which a donkey presents when buried between two bundles of hay. Considerable ingenuity must have been exercised in load-ing these junks, by means, as I understood, of stays from the

As we proceed up the river, the hills recede .to some distance, and here and there picturesque valleys open up through them. The immediate banks are flat, and chiefly remarkable for a num-ber of erections which look like enormous haystacks, but which are really ioe-hoases, for the preservation offish. They are obliged by law to contain a three years' supply always in store. It is only about twelve miles to Ningpo, which we reached at sunset The

Ntaifpo BIfW.

fidloving day was dedicated to an inspection of the city, which decidedly ranks first among those at present open to Europeans. It is aitnated at the confluence of two rivers, contains a popula*

152 NC^GPO.— ITS SHOPS AND JOSS-HOUSEa

tion of about a quarter of a million, and is five miles in circum-ference. A bridge of boats, 200 hundred yards long, connecta it with the principal suburb. But few Europeans reside here, and they live principally opposite the city, on the bank of the lesser of the two rivers. Ningpo is celebrated for having produced SQme of the ablest scholars in China, and numerous triumphal arches, in honor of those of her sons who have carried off the highest honors at competitive examinations, span the principal streets. They are constructed of granite, and ornamented with specimens of singularly clever carving ; in some instances the slab has been cut through, and presents an open net-work of carving of the nicest delicacy. In others, the beauty of the workmanship is exhibited in the wonderM relief with which the most intricate patterns are made to stand out &om the soUd granite.

The book-shops of Ningpo are worthy its high literary reputa-tion ; and, indeed, the shops of every description were superior to those at any of the other ports. At that popularly known as Fortnum and Mason's, we used to sit down and drink exquisite tea, while various delicate conserves were being produced for trial, and smoke minute pipes full of mild tobacco at intervals.

In the best shops there is usually an outer and an inner shop, separated fix)m each other by a glass-covered veranda. The in-ner room is generally a spacious apartment, fitted up with shelves, and pigeon-holes, and drawers, much as in England ; and with extensive counters, behind which stand pale, studious-looking men with intelligent countenances, who measure out yards of silk, or display crapes and gauzes with the .same insinuating grace which distinguishes their brotherhood in our own country.

^Ningpo is noted for the excellence of its wood-carving and in-laying. The embroidery in silk and satin is often beautifiil. Occasionally old China may be picked up, but the supply in this article is not equal to the demand. Soap-stone carving is abund-ant, but may be procured more cheaply at Foo-chow.

The joss-house dedicated to the goddess Ma Tsupu, and main-tained by the Shantung guild, a flourishing corporation, was the handsomest building of the kind I had seen in China. The ve-randas and roofe were supported by freestone columns, carved into the forms of dragons and other unearthly monsters, while elaborate representations in gaudy colors and delicate tracery adorned the walls. Fishes standing on their tails, and dragons

THK OLD PAGODA.— A ««SIM6-SING JOSS." 153

with their moaths open, ornamented the ridges of the roo&, and tenninated in grotesque turrets the projecting eaves. The city is iniersected at intervals of two or three hundred yards by fire-walla, 80 as to confine the ravages of that destructive element within narrow limits.

T\fi6 visitor is amply repaid for the trouble of ascending the old pagoda by the view which is obtained firom the windy sum-mit of its seven storiea The position of the city and the direc-tion of the rivers lie mapped at his feet, with the blue mountains m the distance, which inclose the lakes and the snowy valley, and the picturesque sights of the neighborhood This pagoda is 1100 yean old and 160 feet in height

I was fortunate enough, one day, to witness a " sihg-sing joss" in one of the principal temples. The disagreeable necessity of being oUiged to form one of a dense crowd of very odoriferous Chinamen prevented my staying very long, nor was the plot of so refined a nature as to render the performance attractive ; but the acting was in some instances clever, and the female characters adffliimLly sustained by men whose treble voices, and apparently dinorti^ feet, rendered the disguise perfect The audience seem-ed deeply interested ; and the comic episodes, in which a good <leal of rather coarse humor was displayed, elicited shouts of langhter.

The neighborhood of Ningpo was reported more worth seeing than the town itself; and as die scenery I had already visited in Giina possessed but small merit in a picturesque point of view, I was ^lad to accede to the proposal of Captain Saumarez, of li. M. S. Curmofant, that we should occupy the interval until the arrival of Lord Elgin by an expedition to the Snowy Valley.

164 AN EXPEDITION TO THE SNOWY YALLET.

CHAPTER 12.

CHAPTER Xn.

An Expedition to the Snowy Y^Uey. — Monntain Scenery. — ^The Temple of Ute Snowy Crevice. — ^The Maoa-kao-tae. — ^The *' Thousand Fathom Precipice. **— Sewe-kang-ha. — Our Fellow-lodgers. — ^The Dragon Waterfall. — Departure from the Snowy Yalley. — Monntain Men. — A Yoyage on bamboo Rafts. — Raft Kafi-gation. — Arriyal at Chusan. — ^A Roman Catholic Mission. — ^A Chinese oonntiT Residence. — ^Political Advantages of Chusan. — ^A British Grave-yard. — The sa-

' cred Island of Pootoo. — A degraded Priesthood. — ^The High-priest. — Pictuiiesqoe Temples. — ^Pilgrims. — Magnificent View. — Chapoo.

Mr. Thomas Meadows had been kind enough to funiish 12s not only with a guide, but with most accurate information as to the sights to be seen in the Snowy Valley, and the best way to see them. The first part of our journey was performed at night in a covered boat of small dimensions, and which was propelled by a single oar astern. However, we had the tide with us, and daylight found us moored under a covered bridge, where "ye ^^^ to transfer ourselves to mountain chairs, and our baggage to the shoulders of stalwart porters. For the first three hours our way lay over the fiat banks of the river, along the paved ridges which separated fields of beans, rice, wheat, cabbages, and all the varied assortment of Chinese cultivation. We only recrossed the river once by a bridge, where massive slabs of granite, about twenty-five feet in length each, were laid upon the wooden piles. The valley now began to narrow, and the hills, with an elevation of fipom 1200 to 1500 feet, to disclose rocky gorges and narrow val-leys, where strips of wood and pine forest clothed the steep sides, and the navigation of the river, except for rafts of bamboo, had ceased altogether. Then we brace ourselves for the climb, and, discarding our light mountain chairs, we left them to follow, con-tented that they should form a picturesque feature of the proces-sion as it wound up the steep rocky paths.

Our way led through young pine woods, the smaller branches of which had been lopped for firewood, and passed along the pre-cipitous side of the hill in which it had been scarped. When we had attained an elevation of about 1000 feet, and looked back £rom a projecting spur in the range, a beautifiil panoramic view

TBE "TEMPLE OF THE 8N0WT CREVICE.- 165

met the eye. The valley we had traversed in the morning, dotted with scattered villages, and divided by the river winding away to the horizon like a silver thread, lay at our feet, while on our right pendulous woods of bamboo covered the steep slopes of the mount-ain : planted with perfect regularity, their feathery plumes, of varied hoes and exquisite grace of form, waved gently in the

lUdng a last look at this lovely scene, we reached in a few <teps the summit of the pass, and, crossing it, found ourselves in an amphitheatre surrounded by partially wooded hills, in the midst (jf which the most prominent object was the group of quaint, ga-bled, upturned-cornered houses, which formed the " Temple of the Snowy Crevice :" this was to be our resting-place for ^e night. Ucre we were received by sundry bonzes, in black or gray serge, with shaven crowns, who were dispensing, at the charge of a few ** cash," yellow tickets for the celestial regions to groups of female devotees, of whom we had already passed many on the hill-side, helping themselves along upon their little feet — so ill adapted to the mountains — by means of stout staves. A number of them, with ruddy countenances, by no means uncomely, and whose neat attire and comfortable embonpoint gave evidence of a domestic ooodition of ease and independence, knelt upon small circular mats or hassocks, and prostrated themselves before a row of gods and goddesses, the largest of which, in the centre, was about twenty-five feet in height Huge black images, with ferocious counte-Dances and drawn swords, guarded the sanctity of the temple ; and near them was a handsome bell, where the officiating priest kept up a low monotonous chant, and tapped a little bell as the signisd for genuflexion or prostration on the part of the congregation, who were in the mean time burning little pieces of yellow paper, .tirhting joss-sticks, or telling their rosaries. In another hall a aomber of persons were employed in manufacturing bamboo mats. We were compelled to pass through these holy places on our way to our bedroom, which was in a range of buildings at the

As we had yet a few hours of daylight, we procured at the temple a guide, by name Kim-bau, who should be immortalized in the first hand-book which Mr. Murray publishes of these re-poitfL He had been initiated into the mysteries of ciccroneship by Mr. Meadows, and, although innocent of any language but his

156

THE MAOtJ-KAO-TAE.

mother tongoe, bad learned his lesson, and took ns to every poiot of view with scrupoloas precisioD. Fiist we went to the Maon-kao-tae, where a priest's little honse is bailt upon a projecting ledge of rock that overhangs a precipice 1000 feet high bj ane-roid measoretaent, to the edge of which we crept caatiousl; and looked over broad fertile valleys intersected bj rivers, which met lovingly and Sowed away to water distant fields. The hill-sideG were terraced with rice and other coltivation, in some places to their summits, at others the high lands were wooded, and strips of forest marked the course of impetuous torrents tumbling into the glisteniDg streams beneath. A town lay peacefully sleeping in the midst of the principal valley, and tiny figures could be dis-tinguished working in the fields, or following the winding patliA

THE «'TH0U8AND-FATH0M PBECIPICE." 157

The mxMkisiy altogether reminded me of the Mahabuleahwar Hilla, where, however, the precipices are higher. From here we scram-bled along the edge of the precipice for a few hundred yards un-til we reached the waterfall called the '' Thousand-iathom Pred-pioe,*^ where Kim-bau showed us the special pine-tree to which, as consdentioas sight-seers, it was our duty to cling and crane f>Ter till we could see the pool beneath, and the rush of waters and the dizzy height made our brains spin. The waterfisdl itself is only 400 feet in height, but the stream tumbles and leaps down the Talky after it has left the pool for at least as many hundred feet more, before it becomes a quiet, well-conducted river. We •lesoended by steep slippery paths through pine-woods and groves <tf bamboo to the foot jof the fall, and at a distance of thirty yards from the &11 were drenched with the spray. From this point the <^iie was in the highest degree sublime and impressive ; before us a smooch wall of precipitous rock, from four to five hundred ft*et high, intersected by a white line of foam, extended in the fonn of a semicircle on each side. Five hundred feet below lay the green valley, shut in by the lofty range beyond.

After returning to our temple, though it was nearly dark, and we had done a good day's work, we could not resist visiting a waleriall, the murmur of which was almost audible from our •(oaiteia. The hour of our visit was well timed; the last £Eunt tufts of daylight were &ding away on the distant mountains; the 'inly sound which broke the absolute stillness of the repose in which all nature was hushed was the continuous plash of the wa-terras it issued firom the deep shadows of a dense mass of over-hanging feliage at the head of the gorge, in a long white sheet of foam, like a ghost in the gloaming. Crossmg a slab of granite which bridged the stream below the &11, we ascended a long digfat of steps skirting a precipitous ledge overhanging the brook, ^ OQ reaching the top, followed the winding path through the Aoamj recesses of the wood until it debouched upon a small am-phitheatre, hemmed in on all sides by lofty hills, which rose ab-nipdj fiom its circumference ; here, buried in the mountains and far fitxn the busy hum of men, lay the sequestered village Sewe-kang-ha, ** remote," and, I should think, very " unfriended, melan-cholr. and slow*^ as a place of residence, but an excellent picture of mnquillity and picturesque seclusion. The only evidences of fafe weie the blue wreaths which curled from the thatched roo&,

OUR FELLOW-LODOBBS.

Bera-kug-lu WitsrUL

and rested in a l^bt cloud over the hamlet, as though it had put on a night-cap of emoke preparatory to " turning in." The hour was safficieutly late, at all events, to induce us to take the hint, so we scrambled by another path to the temple, where we found the kitchen crowded with pilgrims, who were going to spend the night here, and who were collected, aa in a club dining-room, in groups round small square tables, vigorously plying chopsticks. The good fare they were enjoying made them quarrelsome. We heard the noise of their contending voices until long after we had retired to rest — indeed, until they were exchanged for snores. The whole establishment was full of lodgers ; and overhead, in close proximity on either side of us, worshiped were alumbering. Some disinterested American had been charitable enough to leave a stove in the temple for the benefit of future travelers, and it was grateful, when we rose in the morning, to warm our hands and drink our coffee by it previous to starting on farther explo-rations. First, however, we were called upon to settle sundry disputes between our coolies and certain devotees, who thought themselves entitled to a preference -in the choice of food, accom-modation, etc ; nor did our good friends the priests venture to interfere at the risk of offending their customers. The civility of these gentry to us was as unlimited as their curiosity; they

DEPASTURE FROM THE SNOWT VALLEY. I59

perpetiudly plied ua with tea and fingered our garments. I have generally found gloves and cordaroj trowaers to be the most striking objects of dress to the uncivilized mind ; shooting-boots are also curio6itie& Our entertainers, however, were becoming aocQStooicd to Europeans, and had evidently smoked a few cigars in their liyes before ; but they were particularly amused by my Bladias servant, apparently a specimen of humanity heretofore unknown to them ; they took him to look at the hideous black deilifli which guarded the entrance of the temple, a compliment to bis penenal appearance at which they chuckled hugely, but which he did not seem to appreciate.

An boar's walk over hill-sides cultivated with tea, and through pine woods, brought us to a pretty valley, divided by a stream fringed with wood, and spanned by a bridge of a single arch, con-cealed by creepers, their long twisted tendrils, like ladies* tresses, playing on the water. On the bank was the temple Lung-yin-tau, dedicated to the dragon god. After inspecting this grim divinity, we visited the romantic waterfall which bears the same name, where the stream after peacefully traversing the valley, plunges over a ledge of rock 120 feet high, into a cleft so narrow and predpitoas that it is impossible to look into its full depth from above. It derives its name probably from the resemblance which the deep gorge, split into two sombre chasms, is supposed to bear to the jaws of a dragon. Although the waterfall is not so high as some of the others in the neighborhood, I thought this the most striking and characteristic in these mountains. From thence we proceeded to the Leshak-yong, a druidical-looking stone of great antiqaity, but unknown origin, placed upon a projecting point which oommands a panoramic view more beautifUl and extensive than even the Maou-kao-tae. Immediately facing us, at the head •if the valley, we had a splendid view of a waterfall, upward of 300 feet high, which falls in one perpendicular sheet to the bot-tom, the water dropping in curious snake-like jets, without ever vmching the smooth surface of the rock, into the pool beneath. Oor elevation above the sea at this point did not probably exceed

aooofeet.

We now returned to the temple, and, after a hearty meal, took

fiurewell of our holy hosts. We regretted that our so limited that we were unable to linger longer in the Sttowy Valley, and explore more thoroughly its scenic attractions.

1^ MOUNTAIN MEN.

In any country they would be worthy of a visit, but in China es-pecially, where the limited excursions of foreigners have disdosed so little of the picturesque, no traveler should visit Ningpo with-out taking a trip to the mountains ; unless, indeed, the scenery they contain is eclipsed by wonders yet to be discovered by those who will explore the whole empire under conditions heretofore impossible. We had been fortunate in the time of year for our expedition ; and though, while we were there, the Snowy Valley did not justify its name so far as the snow was concerned, in the early morning the water in the paddy-fields was coated with ice: and I observed a few days after at Ningpo that what fell as rain below had covered the mountains we had left with a snowr mantle.

The peasantry of this district, in spite of their nationality, pos-sessed the (out ensemble of moimtaineers in all parts of the world. Whether in the Highlands of Scotland, of Circassia, of the Tyrol, of the Himalayas, or of China, there is an indescribable air which I have observed distinguishes them all, while it in no way inter-feres with their national characte&tics. Hot-tempered, good-hu-mored, huge-calved, independent, hardy, and self-reliant — accus-tomed to solitude, but disposed to conviviality, I have always found hill-men the pleasantest companions, while the bracing mountain air and constant variety of scene exercises a correspond-ing influence upon one's own spirits. As we descended the hill. we passed long files of these sturdy mountain men, each stagger-ing under a young pine-tree, and bearing his apparently superhu-man load down to market, with a broad grin on his jocund coun-tenance.

We determined to vary our mode of conveyance on our return journey, and on reaching the River Tsze-ke at the foot of the hill, instead of plodding wearily to our boats over miles of level plain, to perform a voyage in a bamboo raft;, the river being too swill and shallow for any other description of craft. It was, indeed^ little better than a trout stream. The population of a large vil lage on the river bank, where we engaged the raft, turned out tG witness our start, and, while the preparations were being made, we inspected a curious mill worked by water-power, by which J number of hammers or pounders were caused to fall with regu lar stroke into receptades for grain formed like mortars. Ou^ raft was composed of only ten bamboos, on a level with the wa

A TOTAOE ON BUIBOO RAFTS. IQX

ler, which flowed freel; throogh the interstices, bo that we were uUiged to Uy some planks upon them to keep as dry. StUl moiTanent wu imponible except at the price of being ankle^eep in witer. The ends of the bambooe were tamed up, like the oomen of hooaea and eveiy thing else in China. The object, do donbt, was to make a aort of bow, to prevent our being flooded. I'pon tfaii fragile oonstraction we intraated oarselves to the IFnidanoe of one man, aendiog our coolies and chairs overland, and daibed off in oompanj with a number of other rails, principally

l^Mded wiUi wood or charcoal, now grating over the pebbly bed oftbea(Kwn,now whiiied rapidly over ababbling seeUiing rapid, wd tkea bang brought sharp ap by an eddy in some deep green pool, wbere the raftsman's pole conld find no bottom, and salmon vooJd faftTC loved to lie. We were objects of great interest to otho latemen, wbo ventured on jokes at oar expense ; so we re-Uiiaied by ladng them, hoisted umbrellas to fiivoring gales, and ^«okcd onzaalvea past oor neigbbon by holding on to them or ^aGng afjainat tli«m, to the great merriment of the river popula-■xm. "inbe eztnow tHttemen of the wind, and the close of day, L

102 ABBIVAL AT CHUSAN.

checked our energies at last, and we were pretty well knocked up by our day's work when we once more reached our boat, and, coiling ourselves at the bottom, indulged in undisturbed slmnber until dawn once more found us alongside the good ship Gormo-mnt, in the river off Ningpo.

I found that Lord Elgin had arrived, during my absence from Ningpo, after a cruise up the coast, in the course of which he had visited the ports of Swatow, Amoy, and Foo-chow. At the first of these, which is situated between Canton and Amoy, and is not one of those opened by the treaty of 1842, an illicit trade had sprung up, partly in sugar, which is exported fh)m this point to other ports on the coast in foreign as well as in Chinese bottoms, partly in tea, which, from its greater proximity to the tea disliictB, and the recent troubles at Canton, had found this outlet to the foreign market, and partly in bean-cake, which is brought down in large quantities from Shanghai as an article of manure. Swa-tow occupies an important position in Chinese commerce ; extens-ive banking operations are carried on here; a considerable junk trade radiates frx^m it to the islands of Formosa and Hainan, and different ports on the coast A good deal of opium is annually imported by our merchants, which is subjected to local duties.

On the 20th of March we left Ningpo in the Furious, on our way to Chusan, and, running over in six hours, dropped anchor in the beautiful land-locked harbor of Tinghae about sunset On the following morning we landed to explore a locality rendered so notorious during the last war by the prolonged occupation of our forces, and by the terrible experiences through which they passed in this lovely isle, and which have given it a reputation which it has since been admitted it so little merited that we have never ceased to regret its ultimate abandonment We no soonet stepped on shore than we obtained evidences of those associations connected with our occupation, which still linger among the in habitants. Juvenile beggars crowded round us, beseeching casl from "mantalee," which was the nearest approach they coulc make to the honorable British title of " mandarin." The for crowns an eminence overlooking the bay, and beneath, along th< sea-shore, extends a long straggling suburb, which is connecte< with the town of Tinghae, situated about a mile and a half inland by a paved causeway. It is a mean, dirty place, with inferio shops, surrounded by a wall, and containing at most 60,000 in

A ROMAN CATHOUC MISSION. I63

habtUnlB. PasBing thioagh it, we entered the pleasant valley be-yond ; and observing a building in a wood surmoonted by a cross, we decided thai it was a Boman Catholic mission, and bent our steps thither accordingly.

A priest dressed in Chinese costume met ns as we approached, and did the honors of the establishment with great simplicity and cordiality. lie was the only European on the island, a Lazarist of the order of St Vincent, and gave us some interesting details of his Iftbors in Kiangsi, where he had resided for ten years. We inspected his industrial &rm, cultivated by the boys of the school, a dean, chubby-looking set of little fellows, with happy, smiling countenances, veiy different in expression from that of Chinese youth generally. They evidently regarded their spiritual master with feelings of affection and gratitude. Many of them were waifii and strays whom he had picked out of bjrways and hedges, de-serted by their parents on account of some physical infirmity. One was blind, another lame, another's arm and tongue were par-alyzed. Generally, however, his pupils were the children of con-verts ; the Boman Catholic system being rather to breed convertf< than to make them, an operation which is becoming daily mort-simple, as there are upward of half a million Boman Catholic Christians in the empire. Out of the entire population of Chu-au, estimated at 200,000, the priest calculated that about 250 &m-ilies were converts. Neither he nor his flock were in any way annoyed by the people, although jealously regarded by the au-thcnisieB and literati. Still, no active hostility was exercised to-ward them ; and, beyond being occasionally called upon to sub-scribe to pagodas, or take part in Buddhist ceremonies, they prac-ticed their iaith unmolested.

We afterward visited, with our reverend guide, a girl's hospital in the town, which did equal credit to his management with the rest of his establishment He insisted upon acting as our cicerone over the isUnd, and took us first to see the country residence of a rich Chinese proprietor. It was a good specimen of the orna-mental taste of the country. Here were the usual summer-houses boried in rock-work, and approached by labyrinths tunneled thiOQf^ grottoes, or staircases winding through miniature mount-ains, and pavilions perched on islands in diminutive seas, connoct-«d with the main haid by fragile bridges. Channing little baskets vith mossy seats invited to repose in their cool shade, and gor-

134 POLITICAL ADVANTAGES OF CHUSAN.— BRITISH GRAVE-YAED,

geous camellias and magnolias in full bloom flung a ricli ooloiing of glowing tints over all.

After refreshing onxBelves with numerous cups of tea of Ckusan growth, which tasted a good deal like an inftision of straw, anO the leaves of which looked as green as if they had been picked off the bushes the day before, we started off to the top of one of th( highest hills in the neighborhood, so as to obtain as extenmve view as possible over the island before night&ll. From this e evated spot, at an elevation of 1200 or 1600 feet above the sea, v looked oyer fertile valleys teeming with life and rich in caltiv tion ; and, throwing ourselves on the grass after our scramble, i dulged in vain regrets, as our eyes wandered over the lovelin* at our feet, at the infatuation which ever induced us to relinqu a spot not only so highly fiivored by nature in point of fert\] and scenery, but possessing one of the finest harbors on the c< of China, a commercial position at the outlet of the Yang Kiang totally unrivaled, and political advantages of capabil and situation such as no other spot upon the coast of China boast.

The island is fifty-one miles in circumference. Fortunately had but little breath to expend in sighs; but, to judge firoi] headlong course we took to reach the bottom at the peril c necks, the holy man who accompanied us must have susj; that despair was the cause of our recklessness ; for on our an at the bottom, with impeded utterance and many complime Lord Elgin's activity, he went on to assure us that the popt of Chusan preserved most flattering and agreeable xeminis of British rule, and would receive us with open arms whene thought proper to resume possession ; and then, to calm us the way to a secluded nook in a deep valley, where a picti pagoda lay embowered in a dense grove of bamboo, impei to noonday heats ; and here we remained and drank more plied us by bonzes, till it was time to return on board, our kind guide accompanied us, and inspected for tbe firs his life a few of the wonders of a British man-of-war.

Captain Osbom had sent on shore a party of men to the condition of the graves of those of our countrymen buried in Chusan, and the following morning I went to i melancholy records of this painful episode of the last few hours had sufficed to clear away the rubbish, wbich

THE SACKED ISLAND OP POOTOO. l^o

tllowed to aoeamnlate Toand them ; the totnb-Btones themselTee were in good preseiTation, And the men were repainting those which had become partially ef&ced.

At middajr we weighed &om Tingbae, and, favored by lorely weMber, paned through llie intricate windings of tlie Ghusan atchipelago, past swelling islands indented with deep bays run' sing back to rich fertile valleys terraced with cultivation, and through a nBrrow channel between beetling clifis of gray weath-er-worn granite, where the sea singed into dark cavern^ and mur* mond sullenly in deep flssurea in the rocks. The soenery and climate reminded me of a foimer yachting experience among the sonny Grecian isles.

AtsoiiKt we dropped anchor in "the Sea of the Water-lilies," off the sacred island of Pootoo. We devoted a day to the exam-inatios of its holy mysteries. A broad paved causeway led us over the k>w shoulder of a hill into a lovely valley, where a pile of gray pagodas and temples, with upturned roofs of imperial yel-low and walls of vermilion, were emboeomed in foliage of Uie brightest green, and huge impending masses of nigged granite lay

seattend upon the steep hill-aide above as though they had been gloed npcn it by some giant hand. A quaint gateway, covered

IQQ A DEGBADED FBIESTHOOD.

with inscriptions, opened upon a maze of court-yards and a collec-tion of sacred buildings, some especially erected to protect slats of extreme antiquity inscribed with holy sentiments, otheis con-taining enormous bells, struck with a hammer swinging beside them instead of a clapper ; others, and these were the largest and most numerous, filled with monster images of both sexes and all sizes, from the giant figure of Kwang-yin, the goddess of mercy, to whom the whole was dedicated, to a row of little gods three inches high. In the court-yards were sacred bronzes containing sacred fire, and overshadowed by sacred trees ; and there was a sacred pond, full of sacred fishes, covered with the sacred lotns, and spanned by a single-arched bridge.

Every where groups of filthy boozes were collected, basking half-naked in the sun, and inspecting their own tattered habili-ments or those of their neighbors, chanting monotonous prayers, or wandering about telling their beads, crowding round me while I was sketching them, and staring vacantly through their blear eyes upon the strangers. Clad in ragged robes of gray serge, they infested the place like a description of vermin peculiar to it, wearing these ashy-colored vestments till they dropped off, app&r-

THB HIGH.PRIEST.— PICTUBESQUE TEBiPLBS. 167

ently ignonml of one use of water. GeHeraUj covered with cu-taneous eraptions, they were, in all cases, pervaded by an atmos-phere which rendered their proximity in the highest degree of-fensive. When we were entertained by the chief priest of the island on tea and preserves in a room of limited dimensions, crowded with these holy men, the odor of their sanctity became altogether unbearable. Our host himself was, however, an excep-tion ; he was a man cleanly in his appearance, of a mild and intel-ligent countenance, and robed in a stole of yellow.- lie told us that he was the spiritual superior of five hundred priests then on the island ; that it was devoted entirely to religious purposes, no layman being allowed to reside upon it, but that a few nuns were numbered in the population. I should have been inclined to suppose that our authority considerably understated the number at five hundred, and, from the quantity of bonzes we saw, Mr. Williams' estimate of two thousand appeared more likely to be correct That gentleman calculates the number of temples, shrines, and monasteries which are collected upon this little island at sixty. We were contented with rambling over the island, and entering five or six.

They all partook, more or less, of the same character, but varied in picturesqueness of situation : one perched upon a cliff, some 200 feet above the waves that broke at its base, contained shrines hewn out of the living rock, approached by narrow stairs which were tunneled through it ; another was a massive pile of buildings built upon the hill-side, its spacious paved courts inclosed by cacved balustrades, and reached by a series of broad flights of steps. In one temple, buried in a grove of camellia-trees, we sur-prised the whole priesthood in the refectory, sitting at long nar-row tables, and shoveling rice into their capacious mouths with chopsticks. In another, a respectable-looking young man, who had made a pilgrimage of gratitude to the shrine of his choice, was having a private service for his special benefit, and was pros-trating himself vehemently to the clashing of cymbals, the tooting of fifes, and the booming of tom-toms, while a venerable bonze chanted the thanks of the devotee to a wild-visaged deity with a protuberant gilt stomach. Every where the heavy perfume of incense mingled with the fouler odors of priests, and every where ponderous curtains and embroidered drapery concealed the same collection of burning josB-sticks and deformed divinities. Some

of the temples were ia a state of great decay, others were being repaired out of alms and Bubeciiptions aapplied by pious worship-ers ; for it JB only fair to the holy meD to say that if they n^lect their own persons they are devoted in their attentions to the objects of their ailie. It ia said, however, that niany of the mem-beta of the iratemity of Footoo are crimiuala, who bave sought refuge in this asylum, and atone for their past lives by a 'life of idleness and filth, superstition and celibacy.

Bcon Prsflag.

It was a relief to turn our backs upon these scenes, and, ascend-ing to the highest point in the island, enjoy a sublimer worship in the grand temple of nature. On our way up the long fligbt of steps by which we reached a point 1200 feet above the sea-level, we pa^ed nomerous shrines where priests begged and pilgrioie rested. In niches cut out of the bank devoted men passed their days in solitude, peTpetually repeating the formula to which tbe whole island rings. Every baUding is covered with this one in-scription, and every shaven inhabitant passes the greater part of each day in mumbling inoessantly the pious invocation. All other ideas seemed merged into this one, which is embodied in a oontdnuous sing-song chant of " Ometo Fuh, Ometo Buddhn.** Men sit tapping little wooden bells, sa^ng Ometo Fuh throogh-

MAGNIFICENT VIEW. 169

OQt the liTelong day ; and their particular haant seemed to be the steps up the mountain. At last we passed them atl, and standing on its highest peak, looked over the island-studded sea, with plac-id bays inclosed between long rockj promontories, and hamlets nestling in the woods on distant islands, and broad acres of culti-▼ation extending fiur up the hill-sides, while our own little isle was carpeted with fields of flowering rape of the brightest jeUow, dotted with groves and temples, intersected with broad stone causeways worn by the incessant tramp, for centuries past, of priest and pilgrim, and bearing marks of a yenerable old age in its rained shrines, gnarled old trees, hoary moss-grown rocks, and equally hoary occupants.

Leaving Pootoo, we crossed the muddy bay of Hang-chow to Chspoo, celebrated by a bloody but profitless victory during the last war. Once important as one of the termini of the grand canal (before that work was destroyed), it still retains some little mercantile position as the port of the populous and wealthy city of Hang-chow, and the only port on the coast open to trade fix>m Japan. Four junks from those islands were now lying here. It ia, however, worthless to us as a new port, partly because the har-bor is exposed and shallow, and partly because Ghapoo is con-nected with Shanghai by a canal, from which it is only about sixty miles distant A low irregular range of hills border the alluvial plain on which the town is situated, and on their sides and summits forts have been erected. We landed and ascended one of these overlooking -the compact walled city and the vast plain beyoDd, which extended in a blaze of variegated crops with-oat an eminence higher than a pagoda, and with a land horizon atretching in one unbroken line for at least forty-five miles.

X70 CX>MUUNICAXION FBOM FEKIK.

CHAPTER 13.

CHAPTEB Xm.

Communication from the imperial GoTenmient — Lord Elgin's Beply. — Sir John Bowring*8 Visit to the Peiho. — Coarse pursued on that Occasion. — ^Lord Elgin*i Application for Gun-boats. — ^The Boman Catholic Mission of Siocaway. — System of Education. — ^Barren Results of Missionary Labors. — Superstitious Practices of Converts.— A *' Feast of Tabemades."— The Cathedral of Tonk<«-doo.— Difficul-ties attending Missionary Enterprise. — ^Non-arrival of the Admiral. — ^Departun of the Plenipotentiaries for the North.— The Miatou Straits.— Aground on s Sand-bank.— Arrival in the Gulf of Pechelee.— Dreary Weather.— An Expedi-tion across the Bar. — Junk-hunting. — Arrival of the American Mimster. — ^Diffi-culties of the Situation.— Unnecessaiy Delays.— Diplomatic Difficulties.— Aspect of the Forts.— Airival of the Admiral.— The I>i8patch-vesse]s cross the Bar.— Expiry of the Delay.— Postponement of Attack.— Political Consequences of tbe Delay.

The day after our arrival at Shanghai, Lord Elgin received from Pekin the reply of the imperial government to the dis-patches which I had delivered for transmission at Soo-chow a month before. Although by the treaty of Nankin the right is secured to her majesty's representative in China to correspond direct with the highest imperial authority in the empire, the prime minister Yu, to whom the commimications of his excellency had been addressed, did not condescend to respond, but instructed the authorities of the Two Kiangs to make a communication to the British plenipotentiary, in which, after adverting to the recent proceedings at Canton, it was stated that Yeh was in consequence degraded, and supeiseded by Hwang, who alone was authorized to manage the barbarian affairs at that city, whither we were en-joined to return, and at no other place. The prime minister went on to state that, " there being a particular sphere of duty allotted to every official on the establishment of the Celestial Empire, and the principle that between them and the foreigner there is no in-tercourse being one ever religiously adhered to by the servants of our government of China, it would not be proper for me to reply in person to the letter of the English minister. Let your excellency (the authorities of the Two Kiangs) therefore transmit to him all that I have said above, and his letter will no way be left unanswered."

LORD ELGIN'S HEPLT. 171

This letter was returned to the authorities of the Two Eiangs as an unjustifiable disregard of that clause of the treaty of Nankin which stales " that it is agreed that her Britannic majesty's chief high oflScer in China shall correspond with the Chinese high of-ficers both in the capital and in the provinces, under the term ' communication.' "

Under these circumstances, Lord Elgin, after quoting the above clause in reply, states that it is his intention to '* proceed at once to the north, in order that he may place himself in more direct communication with the high officers of the imperial government at the capital" As this was a measure which the embassador had always considered the most likely to be productive of suc-cessful results, so fSo^ as negotiation was concerned, he did not re-gret that the unwarrantable course taken by the prime minister rendered the step imperative. The French, Russian, and Amer-ican ministers received communications more or less to the same efiect, except that Count Poutiatine was directed to repair to the Amour instead of to Canton ; and they all agreed wiUi Lord El-gin that the proper, and, indeed, only course to be pursued was to nppeMT with as little delay as possible with a sufficiently strong fince at the mouth of the Peiho, to enforce that compliance with treaty obligations which the government so pertinaciously re-iiised.

It was interesting, in connection with the determination thus arrived at by the allied plenipotentiaries, to refer to the docimient found in Yeh's yamun relating to the visit of Sir John Bowring, and Mr. Madane, the United States Commissioner, to the Peiho in 18&L They too had endeavored, but with even less success, to communicate with the imperial government through the au-thorities of the Two Eiangs. Sir J. Bowring had been refused an audience altogether, and Mr. Madane stopped at Ewan-shan, out-side Soo<how, as already described, and there remonstrated with OD the impropriety of his proceeding to the north. At first Hiang, the governor general, seemed to think these remonstrances had proved effectual, but he afterward had misgivings on the subject ; for, alluding to Sir John Bowring's complaint against Yeh for want of politeness, and the visit he threatens to the Peiho in con-sequence, he says: '' It is, however, a standing device of the bar-barians to make particular circumstances the plea of demands to be insisted on ; whatever these chie& may insinuate (or whisper)

172 SIB JOHN BOWBING'S VISIT TO THE PEIflO.

against Yeh-Ming-Chin, it is evident that Yeh-Ming-GIiin is he whom they are used to fear. They say they are going to Tientsin. This may be, notwithstanding, an assertion made to compel a^ quiescence in their demands. Your slave has commanded them, with affectionate earnestness, to stay, and the ships of their diief have not as yet departed. Still, there is no certainty, so incon-sistent and capricious is the barbarian character, that they will not after all sail north, and thereby attempt to constram the im-perial authority, and the high provincial authorities of Ihe coast jurisdictions." To which the emperor replies that it is quite troe that '4t is the nature of barbarians to be cunning and malicions;" and he farther directs Iliang to inform them that " a force is as-sembled at Tientsin as the clouds in number" — all clearly show-ing how much the presence of foreigners was dreaded in the neighborhood of the capital, and how effectual, in all probability, any pressure applied there would be.

It was only to be regretted that this very expedition, to which the above papers refer, had gone to the north, and returned n m-feeUL This circumstance in itself was calculated to diminish the effect of another; and, indeed, as we afterward discovered, the same commissioners were sent to meet us at Takoo as had met the English and American commissioners on the former occasion, and no doubts seemed to have'been entertained at head-quarters that they were endowed with a special fitculty for dealing with barbarians, and that we should be as easily disposed of as cor predecessors.

The decision in fiivor of an early move northward was arrived at on the 1st of April, the non-appearance of any imperial com-missioner before the last day of March, the period appointed for the commencement of negotiations at Shanghai, having released the allied plenipotentiaries from their engagements upon this head. In view of this contingency, which Lord Elgin had before leaving Hong Kon^ anticipated as probable, he had, upon the 2d of March, addressed to the admiral a letter, stating that he was about to pro-ceed to Shanghai, in the hope of meeting there a properly quali-fied plenipotentiary ; but his lordship went on to say: " If I shonld be dLsappointed in this hope, it may be necessary, in pursuance of the policy prescribed by her majesty's government, to bring press-ure to bear at some point near the capital. With a view to this contingency, I think it desirable that your excellency should col-

BOMAN CATHOUC MISSION OF 8ICCAWAT. 173

led at Sbangfafti, toward the end of March, or as soon after as nuiy be convenient, as large a fleet, more especially of gun-boats draw-ing little water, as you can spare from service elsewhere."*

In reply to which communication the admiral states: " I beg to acquaint your exoeUency that for some time past my attention has been directed to this object One of the gun-boats and one gun-vessel have already sailed for Shanghai, and arrangements are in progress for others to follow. It is my intention to sail for ?^K«ngh«t ijx the 'Calcutta,' should nothing prevent, on or about the 16th ioatant" As a month had now elapsed since this letter was written, and every day was of importance, we were anxiously k»king out for the first installment of gun-boats now due, as well as for the admiral himself, whose arrival was daily expected.

Meantime the weather at Shanghai was fietvorable for excur-siona, though the neighborhood presented few attractions of any interest One day we took a walk of twelve miles to visit the Bo-man Catholic College and missionary establishment of Siccaway . The ooontiy is such a dead level that pedestrian exercise soon be* comes wearisome. We followed narrow paths between fields of wheat, beans, and other cultivation reeking with high-flavored manure, but bearing, nevertheless, thin crops and abundance of weedsL The land in China, even in the elaborate cultivation of their kitchen-gardens, is never properly worked. The surface merely is scratched, and then deluged with strong manure. The consequence is that, though the young crops sometimes look green and promising, they seldom bear heavily.

The nusBion buildings are pleasantly situated on the banks of a small canaL We were received at the door by some priests, dresacd, as usual, in Chinese costume, who conducted us over the estabUshment We found the school-rooms full of noisy students, all swaying their bodies to and fio over their desks, and reciting their leasoos to themselves in a loud monotonous chant, each ap-ptfently profoundly indifierent to the sharp tones which were ringing in his ears from his neighbor on either side. There were altogether eighty young men and boys in the several school-rooma, deep in the study of the classics and polite learning of the Giineae, for the system of the Roman Catholics consists not so much in imbuing the students with the dogmas of their own fi&ith u in educating them to such a point in the literature of their

• BhM-Book, Pi. SSa.

174 SYSTEM OF EDUCATION.

oountry as shall enable them to compete successfully with thdr fellows for the highest honors of the empire at the competitiye ex-aminations. By these means, if they do not gain converts, they se-cure to themselves protection in high places, and ever after have Mends of the mammon of unrighteousness upon whom they can rely; for the tie formed between the student and his teacher at these establishments is not easily broken, and the kindness and toleration with which he has been treated by the Boman Catho-lics leaves, even in the mind of the stem Confucian, a strong im-pression in favor of that class to whom he owes his present great-ness, and who, whatever their tenets, have, at all events in his own case, practiced some of the noblest maxims of the great philoso-pher. I was informed that the Boman Catholic missions could boast of converts even among the mandarins ; while numerous in-stances of devotion and acts of private charity to the missionaries and their ccmverts were related, both on the part of those Chinese who were members of the Church, and of those who had merely benefited from its institutions.

Notwithstanding, however, the system upon which Roman Catholic missionary enterprise is based in China, of conforming as much as possible to existing prejudices, and conciliating to the ut-termost where it can not convince, I do not think that, even, un-der the new treaty, or the most favorable conditions which can possibly be devised, its influence will ever be felt upon the gov-erning classes. With the masses in almost all countries where it has been introduced at all, the Boman Catholic religion has been popular; but the emissaries of that plagiarist on their own phi-losopher, Mons. Auguste Comte, would have a greater chanoe of success among the literati of China than those of the Pope. I was informed by a high clerical Protestant authority that, out of the mass of Protestant converts hitherto made, there were only five whom he really believed to be sincere ; and there is no reason to suppose that the proportion should be greater among the more in-telligent of the Boman Catholics.

Among the ignorant and superstitious, doubtless many may possess a sort of mongrel belief; but their faith can not be worth much when it is obtained by conceding to them the permission to observe their own festivals, to worship at the graves of their ancestors, and go through all their own ceremonies of mourning, with the exception of burning joss*paper. At Chusan, indeed.

THE CATHEDRAL OF TONK-A-DOO. I75

oar reverend firiend told tis that the converts often refused to uke part in these ceremonies ; but the &ct that they should be permitted to do so, and still retain their Christian name and pio-feasion, is significant The point is one which has caused a seri-ous diasensbn between the Dominicans and Jesuits, the latter be-ing in favor of the greatest latitude being given to the religious practioes of the converta The mission at Siccaway was almost entirely conducted by Jesuits. The best possible understanding evidently subsisted between them and their pupils, whose coun* tmances all bore evidence of happiness and contentment No^ withstanding the fact that twelve hours out of the twenty-four were devoted to work or religious exercises, the establishment was kept scrupulously clean ; the dormitories were models of neatness ; so that habits foreign to the Chinese domestic charac-ter were being instilled into the inmates. Some specimens of modeling in day, by one of the elder students, gave promise of considerable talent as an artist

The day of our visit to Siccaway happened to be a holiday in honor of the approach of spring — ^a Chinese " Feast of Taberna-cles,^ and we met crowds in gala dresses, returning from the cer-emonies which they had attended to propitiate the Ceres of the Celestial Empire. Numbers of bonzes in long gray robes were aoeompanied by soldiers in tall conical head-dresses, like red fool's-caps ; and at one of the temples which we entered gongs were beat-ing and worshipers prostrating themselves incessantly : perhaps some of them formed part of the crowd we saw no less reverendy adoring the Yiigin Mary on the following Sunday at the Cathe-dral at Tonk-a-doa Here one side of the spacious area was filled by a large attendance of Chinese female converts, whose devout demeanor testified to their sincerity, and whose neat and occasion-aDj handsome costume and pleasing countenances formed an agreeable contrast to the majority of the fidr sex the stranger meets in a Chinese town, and of which, if he has no opportunity of seeing the better classes, he will probably form an unfavorable opinion.

The Cathedral is adorned with sacred pictures drawn in con-fcnnity with Chinese notions, though the shaven crowns and tails of the apostles, and small feet of the women, are startling to sa Occidental eye ; but the principal curiosity of the Cathedral is Um orguit which has been constructed by Chinese mechanics, and

176 DIFFICULTIES ATTENDING HISSIONABY ENTEBPRISE.

the pipes of which are composed simply of the hollow bamboo of different sizes. The tones which it emitted, though poweiiul, were soft and melodious, except in some of the higher notes. There is a college attached to the Cathedral The students here are all converts, and many of them were undergoing a course of preparation as native missionaries and catechists.

The efforts of the Protestant missionaries at Shanghai are de-voted rather to the education of youth than the conversion of adults. Ningpo is regarded as the station at which their labois in this latter respect have been most satis£EU^ry. At Shanghai^ about 400 children are under Protestant instruction, but they are not, for the most part, taught English, and only the most radi-mentary works in their own classics. Their education seems likely, therefore, to be of little service to them, either among their own countrymen or foreigners. It has been found at Hong Kong that a knowledge of English exposes youths to temptations^ against which not even the principles they have, or ought to have imbibed, can protect them ; and in too many instances the knowl-edge they have acquired only serves to increase their evil influ-ence. In the American schools at Shanghai, however, English is taught; some of the girls in the schools of these latter missions, more especially, had attained a very extensive and sound knowl-edge of the language ; and, so far as one could judge from their appearance, the most fiivorable results might be augured from the training they had undergone.

There is probably no country in which missionary enterprise is conducted under greater difficulties than in China, our isolated position, on the rim, as it were, of the empire, rendering it diffi-cult for the missionaries to come into such dose contact with the people as will enable them to acquire any lasting influence. A period of from two to three years after his arrival in the county is employed by the missionary in learning the language, which confines him to the particular districts in 'which the dialect is spoken, and which is not understood elsewherp. He is even then not able to settle away from those ports where the vices of the European population go fisur toward neutralizing his efforts. The Boman Catholic, on the other hand, does not remain above four or five months at a station before he is turned out upon the field of bis labors and left to pick up the language as best he may, living with the Chinese, dr^sing as they do, and altogether identifying

DKPABTUBE OF THE PLENIPOTENTIABIE& 177

himself with thoae whom he seeks to influence. With the excep-tion of Mr. Born, comparatiyelj few of our missionaries have fol-lowed this example. The opening of the country, however, by the new treaty, and the protection which it guarantees to Chris-tian misBioDaries, will doubtless inaugurate a new era in evangel-ical enterprise.

On the 3d of April we received intelligence from the south that the admiral had postponed his departure for ten days. Though considerably embarrassed by this circumstance, Lord El-gin decided^ in conjimction with Baron Gros, that it was expedi-ent that the allied plenipotentiaries should proceed to the mouth of the Peiho, in accordance with the determination which had been so strongly expressed to the Chinese government, as any ap-pearance of wavering at so critical a juncture would be liable to serious results. In order, however, as far as possible to out his original policy, his excellency took on himself the responsibility of requesting Sir Frederick Nicolson, then senior officer at Shanghai, to supply him with as large a naval force as could be spared from the station. The opportune arrival of the Highflyer, as relief of the Pique, enabled Sir F. Nicolson to ac-company us himself to the north, and the Cormorant, dispatch gun-vessel, and Slaney, gun-boat, completed our little squadron. His excellency, before his departure, left a letter for the admiral, in which he states :* " I am most anxious for the arrival of the gun-boats drawing little water, which are referred to in your let-ter U> me of the 2d ultimo, because I am confident that nothing will be so likely to bring the imperial government to terms as the appearance of vessels of war within the bar of the Peiho River. Such vessels will, moreover, be indispensable if it should be nec-emrv to ascend that river to Tientsin.^'

At daylight on the morning of the 10th wc lefl Shanghai with the Slaney in tow : the Bussian steamer *' Amerika,'' with Count PoQtiatine on board, had lefl a day or two previously, and the Au-'bcieuK and Minnesota were to follow immediately. Instructions were left with Captain Shadwell, of the Highflyer, to forward with-•'•ut delay any British man-of-war that might arrive at ShanghaL We were fiivored with lovely weather up the Yellow Sea. The forte of the northwest monsoon was apparently expended, and were followed by light southerly gales. To these warm winds^

* Btet-Book, EaiI of Elgin to Sir If. Se^noor, Sth of April, 185S.

M

178 THE MIATOU STRAITS.— AGROUND ON A SAND-BANK.

and the low temperature of the water in consequence of the melt-ing of the winter snows, was doubtless to be attributed the haze that shrouded the horizon, and through which, on the morning of the 13th, loomed indistinctly the lofty promontory of Shantung, the easternmost point of China. After rounding the cape, we coasted along its northern shore, passing the port of Chee-foo, where we observed many junks at anchor in the distance. This town lies at the head of the bay of Ki-san-sen, and was entered by Lord Macartney by mistake for Teng-chow. A high rocky prom-ontory, connected with the main land by a low sandy isthmus, terminates in a bold peak, rising to a height of 1180 feet ahove the sea; beyond this the shore is sandy, with a background of barren mountains. Altogether the scenery reminded me of some parts of the coast of Barbary, while the climate, on that day, was exact-ly that of the Mediterranean in early spring. Soon after, our ex-perience destroyed any hope of this analogy lasting.

At 5 P.M. we sighted the large walled town of Teng-chow, one of the ports opened by the new treaty. The city is in the form of a parallelogram, and of considerable extent, the walls running along the sea-shore for upward of ^ree miles. At the extreme right they terminate in a hill, crowned by a citadel and joss-house. The coast, however, does not afford any shelter at this pointy nor did we see any junks at anchor off the town. The most available harbor for Teng-chow is situated in the Miatou group. These isl-ands, immediately opposite the city, are separated from the main land by straits about four miles across ; the largest and nearest is Chang-shan : it is seven miles long and three broad. Here, in all probability, will be established the future foreign settlement It forms one side of a secure bay, in which we saw an enormous fleet of grain -junks at anchor. We were allowed some little leisure to make observations on the subject, as, while steaming rapidly through the straits, we suddenly grounded with considerable force upon a sand-bank at a spot where the chart gave nine fathoms of water. Our gun-boat in tow had acquired such impetus that she ran into our quarter, and lost her mizzen-mast before she could get clear of us. A tide running like a mill-race, and a strong north-west breeze, increased the difficulties of the situation ; but by dint of getting all our heavy gear aft;, going vigorously full speed astern, and maldng the men roll and jump the ship, at the expiration of an hour our exertions were rewarded with success. Although it

ABBIVAL IN THE GULF OF PECHELEE. I79

was by ibis time dark, our indefatigable and skillful master, Mr. Court, carried us safely through the straits. As this gentleman had performed the northwest passage as the master of Sir Bobert Maclore's ship '^ Investigator," his nerves had undergone a train* ing which rendered them proof under all circumstances.

The province of Shantung, of which Teng-chow is the principal aea-boanl city, possesses the enviable notoriety in China of having produced its greatest philosopher, Confucius. Its most distinguish-ing feature is its lofly range of mountains, of which the highest, Tai-dhan, is celebrated throughout the empire. Notwithstanding its mountainous character and barren aspect, Shantung alone con-tains a population equal to that of the United Elingdom, distrib-uted over an area not exceeding that of Engknd, Scotland, and Wales-Daylight of the 14th of April found us plowing the muddy wa-ters of the Gul£ Our soundings, which did not vary, gave us ten Cuhoms. In many respects the Gulf of Pechelee resembles the Sea of Azof, but its waters are not quite so green or thick. We observed numerous junks on their way to or from the mouth of the Peibo, and the varied character of their construction proved that many were from the ports of Manchouria, or perhaps even the Corea. Toward the afternoon it began to shoal, and this was the only indication that we had reached our destination. Nothing could be more dreary than the scene when the cry of four fiithoms was followed by the order " Stop her I" which we were loth to construe into " Stop here.^' It was dreadful to contemplate the prospect of remaining permanently at anchor in so forlorn a spot Not a sign of land broke the monotony of the dim hazy horizon. The turbid waters were lashed into foam by gales which spun round to every point on the compass with incredible velocity, and kept the gulf in the condition of a caldron of boiling pea-soup. Just as we were going to let go the anchor in despair, we descried through the misty atmosphere the little " Amerika^' at anchor, and steimed off to her for consolation and company. Count Poutia-tioe had already communicated with the shore, and an opaque white-button mandarin had received a note which he had sent aihoie notifying his arrival. The party had not landed, but a Isrge crowd of spectators had collected on the shore to inspect them. Presents had afterward been sent off, which, however, the Busnans had declined.

180 DBEABT WEATHER— AN EXPEDITION ACROSS THE BAB.

While communicating with the Amerika the Pique hove in sight ; and as we found that, at the Amerika's anchorage, we should be aground at low-water, we weighed and anchored with-in half a mile of the frigate. At low tide we had twenty-two feet of water, the distance from the shore being somewhat over eight miles. As the coast of the province of Chili is very fiat, the mud forts at the mouth of the Peiho were only visible from the deck of the Furious during brilliant sunsets, and on other rare occa-sions, which, however, for the first few days of our stay did not present themselves. Cutting northeast gales swept over the dreaiy waters of the Gulf, and whistled dolefully through the shrouds, ill preparing us to meet the sudden transition ; blasts of hot air, charged with impalpable dust from the desert of Gobi, not onlj completely obscured the horizon, but cracked our lips, parched our throats, and insinuated itself into the innermost recesses of our clothing, or served as a general pepper to our food. Then would come another change of wind, and a pitiless rain ; and the dust we had been anathematizing became visible as in muddy runnels it trickled down the rigging and sides of the funnels.

On the second day after our arrival in the Gulf the Cormorant made her appearance, and anchored near the bar. As Lord Elgin had not abandoned his intention of pushing up to Tientsin with as little delay as possible, the Slaney, Lieutenant Hoskins, was sent across the bar to capture a few empty junks, into which the Cormorant might discharge her coal and other dead- weight pre-vious to trying the experiment of crossing.

I proceeded in the Slaney on this expedition, glad of the oppor* tunity of obtaining a nearer view of the forts of which we had heard so much and knew so little. We found the bar to be about a mile wide, the channel marked by stakes, from which hung bunches of black net At the top of high water (springs) there were upward of eleven feet of water at the shallowest part; and, as we afterward found, at dead neaps the depth was eighteen inch-es or two feet There is, however, scarcely any inequality in the surfisuse of the bottom. For a mile it is as flat as a billiard-table, and as hard.

Crowds of jimks were entering the river like chickens running for shelter. Our appearance evidently caused no little sensation among them, which was not diminished when they saw one of their number suddenly boarded by a boat-load of barbarians, and her

JUNK-HUNTING. 181

head put out to sea. Propelling the unwieldly craft with long poles, they aooompanied their efforts to escape with a loud cry of alarxDy which was taken up by each successive junk, until the sounds died away in the distance. However, we had no hostile intentiona, and our wants were limited to four or five empty junks : two of these, capable of carrying a hundred or a hundred and fifty tons each, were dispatched to the Cormorant; the others were taken in tow by the Slaney, and were appropriated by the Pique a&d Furious, as likely to prove useful in our ascent of the river.

This expedition had led us right across the bar, and we pushed our reconnaissance to within a mile of the forts. Wo made out three forts on the south, and two on the north bank of the river. Innumerable banners fluttered from the parapets and embrasures, waving defiance ; and an extensive crowd, probably of soldiers, were drawn up along the whole length of the batteries, watching, no doubt with no small wonderment, the evolutions of the little Slaney as she pounced upon her prey, and went puffing off over the bar in the wind's eye with a string of junks at her stem. Some of these junks were of a different construction firom those we had been accustomed to see in the south ; many of them had come aerosB the Gulf fiom New-chwang with grain or beans, and some very possibly firom the Corea. The crews at first were much alarmed, but upon discovering that our intentions were harmless, entirely recovered their equanimity; and when farther informed that they should be sent on shore, and receive a reasonable sum as the hire of their boats while they were employed, they seemed quite Ttcoodled to the arrangement, and proved their confidence in us iome time after by getting paid part of the junk-hire in ad-vance, and then taking advantage of a dark night secretly to come and endeavor to abstract the junks from their moorings.

The next day two petty mandarins came on board, evidently on a tour of inspection, as they were not the bearers of any mes-9Sge; mdeed, hitherto we had had no official communication with the shorcL The arrival of the United States steamer Mississippi, with Mr. Reed on board, doubtless afforded these gentlemen fresh matter for speculation.

The Nimrod, Captain Dew, a dispatch gun-vessel of rather great-er draught than the Cormorant, and which had been forwarded hr Captain Shadwdl, reached the anchorage on the 19th ; but by this time the spring-tides had passed. It was considered impos-

182 DIFFICULTIES OF THE SITUATION.

sible for the Nimrod, and a rash experiment for the Cormorant, to attempt the traject. Under these circumstances there was only one gun-boat available, and, although it was highly probable that at that period she might have passed the forts without being fired upon, still it was a risk which neither Lord Elgin nor Sir Freder-ick Nicolson felt justified in incurring. There was, therefore, no alternative but to await patiently the arrival of the admirals and a larger force — ^a necessity which ultimately compelled Lord Elgin to abandon entirely his original policy. It had been his hope, whei\ he proceeded fix)m Shanghai to the north, that at or about the time of Lis arrival in the Gulf of Pechelee, a force, es-pecially of gun-boats drawing little water, would be collected there sufficiently large to enable him to approach the capital at onte, and to conclude a peace at such a period of the year as would have admitted of his visiting Pekin before the hot season.

If this plan had been carried out, not only would many of the inconveniences I shall have to detail been avoided, but iJie diffi-cult question of direct intercourse with the emperor would have been solved at a moment when there were unusual facilities for settling it satis&ctorily. Unfbrtunately, this hope was not real-ized. In order to employ the time which elapsed before the ar-rival of the gun-boats, it was necessary to spend five weeks in temporizing at the mouth of the Peiho, during which time the Chinese authorities not unnaturally strengthened their defenses, and sent orders to the Braves in the neighborhood of Canton to harass us in our occupation of the city. A fiirther consequence of this delay was that, before the treaty of Tientsin was concluded the thermometer was 96^ in the shade — ^a state of things which, coupled with the urgent call firom Hong Eong and Canton for the return of the force, rendered any advance on the capital highly inexpedient. Owing to this circumstance, it was left for the min-ister charged with the ratification of the treaty to solve the deli-cate questions involved in the reception of a British mission at Pekin.

Meanwhile our only excitement consisted in sounding and re-connoitring the mouth of the river. The result of our investiga-tions only confirmed us in our original estimate of the insignifi-cance of the forts, which were totally unprotected from attack fix>m the rear, and, though formidable in their extent and display of banners, were little more than a line of mud batteries. During

%

ANOTHEB LETTER TO THE PBIBCB MIKISTEB. 188

the five weeks which elapsed before they were attacked, hundreds of men were employed in strengthening and adding to them : we could observe guns of heavy calibre daily taking the places in the embrasores of the flaunting banners.

Sometimes sundry members of the mission would dispense with naval amistanoe upon these occasions, and one dark night, when three or four of us were navigating a very unseaworthy native cnA, we were caught in a storm, and, more by good luck than good management, were picked up by the Slaney, and thus saved from prematurely making acquaintance with the forts of Takoo. It needed an occasional adventure of this sort to relieve the ex* ceasive monotony of our existence.

*Tbe arrival of Baron Gros on the 21st was the signal for re-newed diplomatic action, and the four plenipotentiaries, being now afisembled in the Gulf, decided on severally dispatching to the prime minister Tu, with whom they had already communicated throogh Soo^how, another letter. Lord Elgin, in this dispatch to the prime minister, notified his arrival at the mouth of the Peiho, in pursuance of the intimation expressed in his letter firom Shanghai of the 1st instant, of placing himself in more immediate communication with the high officers of the imperial government at the capital ; and his excellency went on to say that he was " prepared to meet at Takoo, either on board of his own ship or on shore, a minister duly authorized by the Emperor of China to treat with him, and to settle by negotiation the several questions aflecling the relations of Great Britain with China, which are de-tailed in a letter of the undersigned to the prime minister bearing date February 11.

^* If, before the expiry of six days from the date of the present communication, a minister so accredited shall not have presented himself at Takoo, the undersigned will consider this pacific over* tore to have been rejected, and deem himself to be thenceforward at liberty to adopt such &rther measures for enforcing the just claims of his government on that of China as he may think expe-dient**

Although Tientsin had been the point originally intended for nqtotxation, Lord Elgin was compelled, now that he found him-self deprived of all certainty of ever reaching that place, to name Takoo.

On the 24th of April the Slaney towed in the boats of the four

I

184 ASPECT OF THE FOBTS.

powers, their several R&ga floating g&jlj in the moniing breeze. I accompanied Mr. Wade, who was chained with the deUveiy of the letter. As it was low water, we ]eft the Slanej at the bar, and pulled into the river to a wooden causeway, which, croeaog the mud flat from the oentre fort, seemed to indicate the principal landing-place. Here we were received by a transparent blue-but-ton mandarin, who apologized profusely for beiog obliged to le-ftise our request to luid. * So we received him into our boats, and delivered the letters to him. Meanwhile a large crowd, cbieSj of soldiers, collected ronnd ns as spectators. They were fine-look-ing men, witli a uniform consisting of an ample brown cape wilb a broad pink border, over long blue coata and trowscrs. During !• the short while that the conference between Mr. Wade and tbe mandarin lasted in the boat, we were narrowly inspecting the " terrain" generally. Some of the brass pieces were of enonnons calibre, but I could not count above fifty at this time. At the other end of the jetty to which we were moored a large blue tent had been pitched for the reception of sundry high officials who were expected. At that moment some of the Russians were on shore, having an audience with the treasurer of the province. We, however, had not insinuated ourselves so deeply into the good graces of the Chinese as our allies, whose neutral attitode Mti-rally placed them on a different footing vis-d-vis the imperial gov-emment, which every day of delay enabled them to improve.

From this point the forts looked like a range of huge perigord pies, the flags rather aiding their resemblance to ornamented pas-try. These baimera were angular in shape, with a scalloped bor-der, and white spots on a blue or yellow ground.

As we had at this time eighteen gun-boats in the China Seas, we were still sanguine enough to hope that, before the expiry of the term fixed in the above-mentioned letter to the prime minis-ter, the two admirals would arrive in the Gulf, accompanied by a force of gun-boats suificient, should that step prove necessary, to render the capture of the forts an easy operation. Great w» our disappointment when, after beating back from our mission into the forts, we found the only accession to the squadron was the flag-ship Calcutta, but no gun-boat, or chance of any fbr some days. However, those energetic officers, Captains Dew and San-raarez, had satisfied themselves, after repeated inspections of the bar, tliat it would be possible to force the long-heeled craft they

THE DISPATCH VESSELS CROSS THE BAB. 185

oanunanded across it The Coromandel (admiral's tender), a pad-dle-if heel steamer, was also available for the same purpose ; and ' the appearance, on the following day, of Admiral Rigault de Qe-nouillj, accompanied by all his force, including three gun-boats, once more raised our hopes of getting speedily to Tientsin.

The arrival of these vessels convinced us that, so far as the monsoon was concerned, there existed no obstacle to the passage of oar gon-boats along the coast. They had already weathered the Cape, and were now not surely incapable of following in the wake of the Frenck Indeed, had there been any chance of de-lay arising from this cause, it would probably have been mention-ed when the gun-boats were first applied for. Inasmuch, how-ever, as, notwithstanding their absence, the allied force had now beoome fonnidable, Lord Elgin lost no time in repeating to the admiral his opinion of the importance of a movement on Tientsin ; and it was arranged that an attempt should be made at the first spring-tides to push the dispatch vessels over the bar; so that ther might be in readiness, should the answer of the prime minis-ter render necessary the capture of the forts on the 1st of May. On the 28th of April the first attempt was made, but the tide was not sufficiently high for our vessels, though some of the French gun-boats, which drew less water, succeeded in scraping over. On the following day, however, the Nimrod was forced over by her inde&tigable commander, while the Cormorant ran past all the French gun-boats, and anchored within about 1500 yards of the fcrtB. When this little squadron was joined by the Coromandel, we had seven men-of-war inside the bar.

On the 80th an extremely unsatisfactory conmiunication was receiTed fiom Tan, governor general of Chili, stating that he had, in conjunction with a mandarin named Tsung-lun, director gener-al of granaries, and Wu, under secretary of the cabinet, been ap-pointed commissioner to meet the foreign plenipotentiaries at Ta-koo, and enter upon negotiations. As he did not allude to the natnre or extent of the powers with which he was invested, he was called upon to define them, and informed that, if they were not as foU as those held by Lord Elgin, and specified in his former eomxnanications as required, he (the embassador) would regard his pacific overture for the appointment of a " duly qualified officer" as rejected. The reply to this letter was to the effect that the powers of Tao, Tsung, and Wu were limited to reporting our de-

186 POSTPONEMENT OF ATTACK.

mands, etc., to the capital. The whole of this correspondence took place on the 30th. Under these circumstances, the only cooise left seemed to be to send in an ultimatum to Tan, stating that the * plenipotentiaries had now placed the matter in the hands of the allied naval authorities.

As the 1st of May had been the day originally fixed as the ex-piry of the ^^ddaifaUdy^ the excitement became pretty general throughout the fleet on the SOtb, more especially in conaeqaenoe of a signal being made by the flag-ship for the small-ana men to hold themselves in readiness for landing. General orders were also issued by the admiral, containing the dispositions of attacL On the 1st, consequently, great were the preparations on board the Furious. Excited midshipmen, staggering under blankets, canteens, and havresacks, rushed frantically about the deck ; the landing-parties had their rations served out, and were told off; the paddle-box-boats were lowered, and the guns put in them ; and all were on the tiptoe of expectation until the afternoon, when it began to be whispered that a change had taken place in the views of the naval commander-in-chief, and that an attack on the forts was indeflnitely postponed. This took all the world by surprise, as nothing had occurred which coi^d explain this alteration of plan.

Thus a second time the policy which Lord Elgin had determ-ined to carry out in his movement to the north sustained a check; on the first occasion, in consequence of the absence of gun-boats to support him on his arrival in the Gul^ he had been com-pelled to invite a Chinese plenipotentiary to meet him at the mouth of the Peiho, instead of proceeding to some point nearer to the capital — a change of plan which was very injurious, be-cause the mouth of the Peiho was the scene of the abortive n^o-tiations of Sir John Bowring in 1854 ; and now again, when ike Chinese plenipotentiaries had £sdled to produce their credentials within a fixed period, he was thwarted in his desire to foil their attempts at evasion by a rapid and immediate movement up the country. The consequences of these delays were serious in the extreme. In a military point of view they are graphically de-scribed in the admiral's dispatch of the 21st of May, upon the oc-casion of the taking of the forts three weeks afterward. " From the arrival of the embassadors on the 14th of April," says his ex-cellency, " the Chinese have used every exertion to strengthen the

FOLinCAL CONSEQUENCES OF THE DELAT. 137

foijB at the entrance to the Peiho ; earthworks, sand-bag batteries, and para^tB for the heavy gingalls, have been erected on both ' sideB for a distance of nearly a mile in length, upon which eighty-seven gans in position were visible ; and the whole shore had been piled to oppose a landing/' Politically they were even more dis-astroQB, because, by obliging Lord Elgin to protract, at the mouth of the Peiho, negotiations which he clearly saw could lead to no good result, they gave to his proceedings a vacillating character, which was calculated to strengthen the self-confidence of the Chi-nese diplomatists.

188 PERILOUS FOSrnON OF DISPATCH GUN-BOAT&

CHAPTER 14.

CHAPTER XIV.

PerilooB Position of Dispatch Gun-boatB. — Strengthening of the Forts. — ^Arriral of Chinese Re-enforcements. — ^The Question of fall Powers. — ^Anglo-American Visit to the Peiho in 1854. — ^Intercoarse on that Occasion. — ^Interriew with Tsimg and Tan. — ^Memorial of Commissioners in 1854. — Reference to Pekin. — Contemptooos Treatment by the Chinese GoTemment — ^Anxiety as to fatore Movements.— -Bleiii-orandum of Sir M. Seymonr. — Communication with Tan. — The final Summons.— Insolence of the Garrison.

For the next three weeks our life in the Gulf was one of abso-lute inaction. This was the more trying, as the cool season was slipping rapidly past The hot gusts came oftener, and in one week the thermometer rose from 42^ to 74^. During all this time hundreds of grain-junks were passing into the mouth of the river, bearing the annual tribute of rice, on which Pekin is so en-tirely dependent. The interception of this grain-fleet had been one of Lord Elgin's principal objects in pushing northward early, and desihng to be accompanied by the gun-boats. It was impos-sible, however, to establish a blockade while negotiations ostensi-bly pacific were still in progress, and it was equally impossible to bring those negotiations to a close until the naval authorities an-nounced that they were in a position to take the forts ; because, if a state of hostilities had been produced before they were able to effect this 6bject, the dispatch gun-boats, which were over the bar, and unable to recross it except at spring-tides, would obvi-ously have been in a very perilous situation. Meanwhile Count Poutiatine had pushed his little steamer across the bar, and was living in the river and in daily communication with the Chinese. Mr. Beed, also, had frequent intercourse with the commissioners; and neither time nor opportunity were wanting to enable the neutral powers to exercise the blessed functions of the peace-maker.

There were now a sufficient number of ships inside the bar to induce us to pay them frequent visits, partly as a break to the monotony of our life, and partly to watch the progress of the for-tifications and the arrival of Chinese re-enforcements. From the main-top of the Nimrod a most interesting bird's-eye view was

ABBIVAL OF CHINESE BE-ENIOBCEBfENTS. 189

obtained of the flat peninsula on which the forts were placed, and the steppe country stretching away to the horizon. Immediately beneath was the line of batteries, in which Chinamen were work-ing like ants, happily thoughtless of throwing up any works in their rear, solely occupied in getting more guns into position, and stieugtbening the front face. These defenses were properly known as the forts of Tung-koo. Behind them the plain extend-ed across the neck of the peninsula for about a mile, to the town of Takoo, situated on a bend of the river. Mandarins in state, officers on horseback, surrounded by their military retinue, Tartar couriers, soldiers, and camp-followers of all descriptions, were seen constantly passing across this plain ; while here, for the first time in China, we saw carts drawn by horses or mules, generally tan-dem. In the town of Takoo, a pagoda or two marked the resi-dence of the commissioners and the principal temples ; while be-hind it, a line of trees denoted the course of the river, and fur-nished a green background refreshing to look upon.

On the north bank of the river, two square forts, built moro in accordance with civilized ideas of fortification, were undeigoing repair and armament, while in rear of them, upon the arid salt-paoa, a large camp, the tents scarcely distinguishable from the salt tumuli, betokened the arrival of an extensive body of troops from Pekin. A cavalry regiment forming part of this force was an at-tnctive object of inspection. Near this camp another battery was in progress of erection, in a position which conmianded a long reach of the river.

The masts of junks, forming a forest of dry sticks beyond Ta-koo, showed how thickly the river was packed with craft ; while innumerable white sails dotted the horizon, and the clumsy hulls of others, which had reached their destination at low water, wero imbedded in the vast expanse of mud which stretched out to sea-ward.

On the 6th of May the plenipotentiaries found themselves com-pelled to seek a new pretext for correspondence in order to gain time, and for that purpose reopened negotiations with Tan and Traog. As the Chinese commissioners^ when required to produce the proper credentials, wero in the habit of declaring that it was not in accordance with the usages of the empire to grant to em-haoBadors full powers similar to those conferred by European •ovoeigns on their representatives. Lord Elgin transmitted to

190 ANGLO-AMERICAN VISIT TO THE PEIHO.

them a copy of the full powers granted by the imperial govern-ment to Keying and Hippo on the occasion of their treating with Sir Henry Pottinger, and intimated that he would be satisfied if they could procure from the emperor similar credentials for them-selves. Their refusal to comply with this demand furnished ad-ditional evidence of the fiict tiiat they had not authority to setde the important questions pending between the two governments.

In order to a better appreciation of the peculiar conditions un-der which diplomatic relations in China are conducted, a perusal of the state papers discovered in Yeh's yamun, some of which have already appeared in the Blue-Book, and which are shortly \y to be published in extenso, by Mr. Wade, will be found very use-ful ; those bearing upon the visit of Sir John Bowring and Mr. Maclane to the Peiho in 1854, and the circumstances incidental to itj were especially edifying and instructive to us, more particularly as the great bulk of the memorials were written by Tsung, the associate of Tan in the present commission. That functionary little dreamed that his most secret and confidential opinions upon the subject of the English barbarians were imdergoing the closest scrutiny by those identical barbarians, at tiie period he was com-municating with them in tones as conciliatory as was consistent with his hostile feelings. Certainly the circumstances imder which we appeared oflf the Peiho were somewhat different to those under which it had been visited in 1854. Then the force was composed of one English and three American vessels, only one of which was inside the bar. Now there were upward of twenty men-of-war in the Gulf, of which nine were inside the bar; for an American steamer, as well as the Bussian, had taken up her anchorage in the river. Then the foreign plenipotentiaries had manifested the strongest desire ^ be received in audience, and had visited the Chinese commissioners in the tent erected on shore for their ac-commodation. Now these latter had fixed two several days for interviews, and expressed their anxious readiness to receive the foreign plenipotentiaries ; but their festive boards had been spread and their soldiers paraded in vain ; instead of the plenipotentia-ries they only saw Messrs. Wade, Lay, and some of the members of tiie staff, and so far forgot their dignity, in their anxiety to conciliate, that they entertained them officially. On tiie former occasion Drs. Medhurst and Parker had been received by two subordinates, Wan-kien and Shwanjin, whose memorials on the

niTEROOUBSE ON THAT OCCASION. 191

subject are in the highest degree amusing. This was pending the anival of the imperial commissioner Tsung.

To judge fix>m their account of the intractability of the barba-riansy they must have undei^one most trying experiences in their endeavora to carry out the emperor's injunctions " to discomfit their (the barbarians') deceit and arrogance, and foil their mali-cions s(^histiy." " There is no fathoming their (the barbarians') minds.*^ They in one place despondingly remark, " Nor is it at til certain they are not covering a mischievous purpose, their real object being to find a pretext for misunderstanding with us." Most determined are the combats they seem to have had with the interpreters. " To judge by appearances, Medhurst is much the most craffy," they think ; but elsewhere they exultingly exclaim, " joor slaves lectured them upon the obligations of duty. Med-hurst and Parker hung down their heads, having nothing to re-join, and apologized for their error. They fiirther observed that, as a hi^ officer was to bo at Tientsin immediately, to look into the questions pending, there would now bo peace between us, and (at this they were so delighted) that, though they should die, they should not care. They seemed greatly ashamed, and their lan-guage was most respectful."

Indeed considering how constantly Wan-kien and his colleague are ^' peremptorily enjoining" and " authoritatively commanding" the barbarians, they seem to produce but little effect ; doubtless feeling the futility of their efforts, one of them, after suggesting thai the governor general be sent to inquire into the matter, winds op in the following modest manner: '^ The opinion that is within the nnge of his stolidity, your slave, in the rashness of his igno-rance, humbly declares; and, unequal to the excess of his trepi-dation, awaits your majesty's commands."

I had not the advantage of seeing Tsung, but those of our party who were received by that dignitary and Tan describe him as an iU-favored, suspicious-looking man, with a squint, who maintained A truculent silence throughout the short interview. Perhaps the following memorial which I have extracted from among Mr. Wade s translations of the same papers, will account for the evil eye with which he regarded us, while it is interesting, at the same time; as throwing much light upon the motives and modes of ac-tion of Chinese officials ; it is supplementary to a long and very interesting memorial, in which he and his colleague describe their

192 MEMORIAL OF COMMISSIONEBS IN 1854.

interviews with Sir John Bowring and Mr. Maxjkne, their per-emptorj refusal to listen to any of their demands, and the means by which, in their opinion, they can be induced to waive them. " Farther, they say, your slaves, having received your majesty's commands to administer barbarian business together, could they have so set the right before the barbarians as to prevent them going back &om their engagements, would they have dared to trouble your sacred majesty with farther matter of thought, by the application which they respectfully make for a Celestial de-cision?

<< The English barbarians are, however, full of insidious schemes, imcontrollably fierce and imperious. The American nation does no more than follow their direction. Every movement is the oon-ception of the English. A perusal of the list of propositions pre-sented by them jshows that they are in general the views of a sin-gle self. They consist neither with right feeling nor principle. They have been mildly remonstrated with, but so crafty and slip-pery is their disposition that it is hard to set the right before them.

" Your slaves, having duly taken counsel together, have re-solved to point out to them what articles in their paper admit of discussion ; and for the discussion of these, whether important or otherwise, to refer them to one of the five open ports. The place to which they might prefer to proceed your slaves would report to the throne ; high authorities in the province in which it lies re-ceiving instructions &om your majesty to consult together and make their disposition according to the particulars of the case, as ascertained by them on investigation, and to oblige the barbanans to return and abide the issue; to reject the rest of their proposi-tions, one and all ; and, on receipt of your majesty's approval of this course, to write them another letter for their instruction, and return them {liL, throw back) their paper of articles. Should they be willfully perverse to take no notice of it, but to be more thaji ever active in preparing secretly for defense, and to wait spear in hand, with the right on our side and the wrong on theirs, it does not seem that they can have any thing to allege against us. It is the nature of the Mwan and I,* while they dread the strong, to

* Nate by TroMhtor, — ^The four baibarian races saironoding ancient China prop-er were the Mwan, the I, the Jung, and the lih. The second is now almost generic for all races not Chinese.

REFEBENCE TO FEKIK. 193

insult the weak. Without some display of power, they will not, perhaps, be deterred from their purpose of prying and spying {liL^ their heart of spying will not be awed).

*^ It is proposed, in reply to them, to show a certain amount of indiiferenee, thus to enhance the dignity of the state, and annihi-late their treacherous projects. The bajrbarians are in no wise to be informed that the paper of propositions tendered by them has been laid before the throne. They were told, in the first instance, that it was taken away to bo studied more carefully ; that on any thing in it that might be of advantage to both sides, or in no way to the prejudice of either, your majesty's pleasure would, after due deUberation, be requested for them; that the remainder would be negatiTed, article by article, as being, from their offensiveness and impertinence, harmful and impracticable; and that the paper would be returned to them on the 18th. The barbarians have never been given to understand that a copy of it could have been submitted to your majesty for perusal. As in duty bound, they add this indosure to the foregoing details."

There was no reason to suppose that Tsung, who adopted this tone with reference to barbarian affairs in 1854, had changed his mind in the interval, more especially as the policy he adopted on that occasion was eminently successful. He got rid of the barba-rians, who were not more heard of until the " Arrow case" once more roused " these troublesome pests" into action.

Upon the above occasion the question of powers did not seem to arise, the commissioners untruthfully alleging not only that they were unable to entertain the demands of the barbarians, but even to refer them to Pekin. It appears, however, that they were no referred, and the emperor's decree on the subject was among our papers. Upon the occasion of our visit, they evidently wished it to be considered in the light of a concession that they offered to make reference to Pekin ; but it was clear that this was a princi-ple totally inadmissible, as being not merely inconsistent with the f iignity of the powers represented on the occasion, but incompati-ble with the speedy or satisfactory progress of negotiations.

The practii^ inconvenience of treating with irresponsible func-tiooimes is exemplified in a decree from the Council of State to Veh, informing him of the proceedings of Sir John Bowring and Mr. Madane in the north, in which they say : '* They (the foreign plenipotentiaries) presented a number of requests ; more than one

N

194 ANXIETY AS TO FUTUBE MOVEMENTS.

of them objectionable, by reason of their unreasonableness and im-pertinence. We confidentiallj instructed Tsung-lun and his col-leagues to disapprove and negative the whole of these, but to write a reply, promising, as it were of their own motion, that three of the questions — viz., the misunderstandings between the people and the barbarians, the arrears of duties at Shanghai, and the tea-duties in Kwang-tung, should, notwithstanding, be looked into and disposed of." This view of the subject was doubtless founded upon the opinion of Tsung-lun, as stated by him in one of his Memorials, in which he says: " Their (the foreign plenipotentia-ries') object (was to obtain consideration of) the arrear of duties at Shanghai, the surcharge on the tea-duties at Canton, and trade up the Yang-tse-Kiang. The remaining articles were mere talk (or lies), to produce an eiffect" Our subsequent silence upon the subject for so long a period must have confirmed this opinion, while the Council of State, commenting upon the indignant de-parture of the squadron from the Gulf, sagaciously remarks, " They will go back to Kwang-tung — their averment that they will return home for instructions from their government being nothing more than another of their fictions." Then follow in-structions to Yeh, that, when they get to Canton, he is to be as peremptory with them as Tsung-lun was. Above all, that "their proposition to trade up the Yang-tse-Kiang must be peremptorily negatived, nor must the barbarians be led to suppose that the idea was ever communicated to us."

With the advantage which these papers afforded him of an in-sight into the character of Chinese diplomacy. Lord Elgin was nat-urally desirous to avoid being entangled in this labyrinth of fi-nesse and word-fencing; and the delays in the Gulf were doubly annoying to him, because they had a tendency to involve him in discussions of this nature.

Meantime the Chinese were daily gaining confidence; there was little doubt that they had now made up ^eir minds to resist^ and every day's delay was weakening our position morally. At one time it seemed probable that the whole force would leave the Gulf of Pechelee without accomplishing any object whatever.* The time was a most anxious one, for the plenipotentiaries con-sidered that any such abandonment of the enterprise would tend

* The foUowiag men-of-war were at this tame anchored in the Golf t

OF SIB IL 8ETM0UB.

195

10 increase the anoganoe of the court of Pekin, and perhaps com-piomiflc the safety of Europeans in other parts of the empire.

Finally, it was resolved that a movement up the Peiho, of a mixed hostile and diplomatic character, should take place, as de-scribed in the annexed memorandum of Sir M. Seymour, of the result of the conference held on board I'Audacieuse fiigate, 18th of May, 1858.

** Proposed by the embassadors —

'* To take the forts, and, in accordance with language held to

Erolub.

Qvau.

C-c-U. 84 700 {^tJ'^Jk!^'^

, iO 270 do.

pMldle steamer 8 220 do.

Kumod, diytch goTcnunent vessel 6 120 Peiho.

Comionnt da. 6 98 * do.

8«nviM do 6 98 GnlforPechelee.

Fiiy.. 8 160 do.

r, guo-boAt 6 48

do. 5 48

Bustard, do 8 48

\ 8 48

a 48

8 48

Comnwidfl, paddle steamer 5 44 Peiho.

Hesper, store-ship 0 54

2052

Fbbjtoh.

frigate. GolfofPeclMlee.

frigate. da

PrinuDquet, steam corrette do.

Danaee, store-ship da

Msvtha da

PuQipBloo, sieam oorrette • ••... do.

MitniOa, gm-boat Peiho.

FaM, gvo-boat do.

Avalanche, gnn-boat do.

do.

AjIBBICilV.

MOD frigate. Golf of Peehelee.

Miaissippi, steam frigate do.

Antelope, chartered steamer Peiha

RCBSUH.

Aflwrika, paddle mwmnr Pftlha

196 COMMUNICATION WITH TAN.

Tan, the Chinese high commissioner, to go nearer the capital to treat ; to advance pacifically up the river with a view to meeting a plenipotentiary.

"It was remarked that the mmisters of Russia and the United States would unite in this movement, after the capture of the forts.

" I stated that I was quite prepared to operate against the forte, and afterward advance the gun-boats in aid of the proposed move-ments up the river.

" The o£Sicial authority requiring me to act is to be funushed by Lord Elgin."*

In keeping with this arrangement, a communication was ad-dressed to Tan, in which the embassador stated that, the various delays accorded having expired without producing any satis&c-tory result, it had at last become necessary for him, in accordance with his expressed intention of " placing himself in more immedi-ate communication with the high officers of the imperial govern-ment at the capital," to move " toward" Tientsin. "As a pre-liminary measure," his excellency goes on to state, " it will be req-uisite that the forts at the mouth of the Peiho be placed in the hands of the commanders-in-chief of the allied force. Their ei* cellencies will signify the time within which the imperial troops will be called on to evacuate these works. The forts once in pos-session of the allied force, the undersigned will ascend the river, trusting that the imperial government will, without farther delay, admit the expediency of appointing a duly qualified representa-tive to meet him."

On the 18th of May the plenipotentiaries and admirals met in conference, and it was finally arranged that the above sununons should be sent in on the 20th ; and that if the Chinese should de-cline accepting our offer of temporarily garrisoning their forts for them, force should be employed to obtain possession of them.

So at last, after five weeks of total inaction at anchor in one spot, there was some prospect of escape from a situation which was gradually becoming intolerable. During this period, which seemed an, age, we had passed through every variety of tempera-ture and every phase of sentiment We had been hot and hope-ful, cold and despondent, shrouded in fogs, beset with doubts, choked with sand and disgust, tempest and passion-tossed, becalm-

* Vkk Bloe-Book, ptge 806.

INSOLENCE OF THE GARRISON. 197

ed and torpid* We became wonderfullj expert at games with rope qnoitB, and profoundly indifferent to sublunary affitirs gen-enlly. News of the change of ministry at home, which arrived about this time, did not create nearly so much sensation as a pres-ent of firesh fish, for we were reduced to living on potted meats.

Information came fix>m those in the river that the Chinese were working harder than ever in constructing stockades and abattis, that the camps were increasing in size, and the soldiers in bravado, iDflomuch that they hooted and waved flags at us jeeringly, won-dering why we did not ^' come on :" all this was refreshing to the spirits of Uiose who had become bloodthirsty, more especiaUy the oiRoeTS of the ships over the bar. The Nimrod and Cormoncnt kad been quietly edged so close to the forts that, considering their escape was impossible, no other nation but the Chinese could have resisted the temptation of firing upon them ; but ip vain did their commanders watch for a little puff of white smoke which might have enabled them to cut the gordian knot which we in the Gulf had been so long endeavoring to imravel ; in vain did parties of sportsmen look for snipe under the very guns of the batteries ; the imperturbable garrison contented ^emselves with waving flags, well pleased to be allowed to play the part of the Earl of Chatham as long as we should continue to personify Sir Richard Strachan.

198 THE EVE OF THE ATTACK.

CHAPTER 15.

CHAPTEE XV.

The Night before the Attack.— I>eliTei7 of the Ultimatam.— The Signal of Atud. — ^Adyanoe of the Cormorant. — ^The Nimrod hotlj engaged. — Chinese ArtiUei;-practice.— The Batteries stormed. — "Sauve qui pent.** — ^Terrific Explosion.— As-pect of the Fortifications. — ^Attack of the northern Forts. — Capture of the lust Battery.— A Visit to Tan's Residence.— Imperial Edict.— Fate of Tan.— His Ac count of the Action. — ^Tan*8 Yamnn. — ^A Poem '*in Memoriam." — Return to the Furious.

As if to compensate to us for all the delay and discomfort to which we had already been subjected during our stay in the GbH the climate for the last few days would have been a credit to the Mediterranean. The sky was cloudless, and fresh breezes fiom the seaward had driven the salt waves into the Gulf^ and foroed back the muddy waters of the Peiho, until that river indulged in the poetic license of " meandering level with its font"

On the 19th I crossed the bar at an early hour. The batteries maintained their usual aspect of repose. Here and there groups of soldiers were squatted round some big brass guns, or manda-rins of rank with umbrella and banner bearers went their rounds; but as the day wore on they saw enough to rouse them to vigi-lance and activity. Six gun-boats came dancing merrily over the bar, each thronged with human beings, and forming a centre round which clustered a crowd 'of ships' boats, like chickens nes-tling under the maternal wing. Spasmodically puffing forth their six jets of white smoke, they steadily approached the awe-struck garrison, who, however, to do them justice, manifested no external signs of alarm. That even the hardy progeny of the soldiers of Genghis Khan should have felt some degree of trepi-dation at witnessing a phenomenon of this description for the first time was natural ; but not only did they conceal their intimida-tion, but had the hardihood to send off a message through Count Poutiatine, inviting us to " come on." So we came on, and look-ed very pretty as we did so ; the setting sun glancing on red coats and waving flags, and shedding its warm bright glow upon the devoted garrison, so many of whom were looking at it for the last

DELIVEBT OF THE ULTDfATUH. 199

time. These latter, however, probably not much given to senti-ment at any time, were evidently more engrossed with the ap-proaching foe than the departing day, and seemed to suspect that we were going to attack the same evening. Officers moved brisk-ly abont the batteries on horseback ; the whole garrison stood to their guns, and tamed out in a long and imposing line upon the glads ; but their prowess was not yet destined to be tried. The gnn^boatb came to an anchor at a long range from the forts ; the garrison relapsed into quiet and security ; the waves, so lately bomished gold, became polished silver as the rising moon tipped tl^eir crests, and the hoarse pant of the steam-engine was succeed-ed by the gruff chorus of the British sailor, who was too much excited by the prospect of " thrashing the fokees" on the morrow to go to sleep until he had exhausted his repertory of appropriate flongs. At length the last barbarian strain died fkmtly away, and tar and Tartar were buried in profound repose.

At eight o'clock on the following morning, the English and French flag-captains, accompanied by Mr. Lay, landed under a flag of trace with the ultimatum, and an intimation that a delay of two hours would be accorded for the exchange of garrisons, as required in the ultimatimi. These gentlemen were received by a petty mandarin near the blue tent, where a repast had every day lieen spread for the entertainment of any such barbarians of distinc-tion as sboold honor the commissioners with a visit To this of-ficial the ultimatum was handed, and the party retired. An in-teml of two hours then elapsed, at the expiry of which, as no &rtheT eonmiunication was received from the forts, it was con-cluded that the authorities preferred their own garrison to the one proposed as a substitute, and had determined to abide by the con-ffeqaencesL At ten o'clock, therefore, the signal was hoisted for the ships to take up their respective positions.

The Cormorant, Mitraille, and Fu»fe had been told off to the attack of the two forts on the northern side, while the three forts on the southern bank, with their long connecting-line of sand-bag batteries, fell to the share of the Nimrod, Avalanche, and Pra-gonne. This apparently unequal distribution of French and En-u\iA gun-boats, by which the former appeared to have monopo-lised an undue share in the operations was rendered necessary by the inefficiency of the French gun-boats for perfoming sundry iiinctions for which our smaller class of gun-boats are alone adapt-

200 SIGNAL OF ATTACK.— ADVANCE OP THE CORMORANT.

ed, and which we were compelled to do for them. Thus the Le-yen and Opossum were told off for French service throughout the day, and towed in their landing-parties. During the subse-quent period of our residence at Tientsin our gun-boats were con* stantly employed on the French account, bringing up provi^ODS, supplies, etc., and performing the entire river service for both squadrons.

To return to the signal of attack. Cameron and I had taken up our position for viewing the operations of the day on board the Nimrod. For a few moments before this signal was hoisted the river presented a most animated appearance. The advanced ship up the river was the Cormorant, letting off impatient pnlb of steam, as she waited like a greyhound till the leash should be slipped, and she should be started to burst through the bamboo barrier which was stretched across the hver, and run the gauntlet of the fire of forts to which she would be exposed before reach-ing her position. Immediately behind her lay the Nimrod, her decks cleared for action, the men at their guns, and every soul eagerly longing for the welcome order. Some distance astern of her were our own gun-boats, surrounded by their small fry, crowd-ed with men, and the four large French gun-boats.

The signal flag had hardly reached the truck of the Slaney when the Cormorant darted off like an arrow ; as her men were all lying flat on the deck, not a soul but her commander and two or three officers was to be seen on board. A moment had scarce-ly elapsed before Captain Saumarez had reason to congratulate himself on the wisdom of his precaution — ^puff, and a cloud of smoke like that of an exploded mine was followed by the whisde of a round-shot, then another, and another, till all three forts had opened on her in full chorus. But the Cormorant disdained re-ply ; suddenly there was a shock, a tremor, and a start ahead-she had burst the barrier, composed of five seven-inch bamboo cables buoyed across the river. In a moment more she was in position, and, giving the batteries on the southern bank one gun by way of a recognition of the compliment they had paid her, she concentrated her tremendous fire on the northern forts, which were completely silenced in about eighteen minutes, at the expiry of which term the Fus^ and Mitraille came up, too late, however, to participate in the bombardment

Meantime the Nimrod had been no less alert, and, being al-

THE NIMROD HOTLY ENGAGED. 201

ready almost in position, opened incontinentlj a telling fire on the aonthem foils, thus diverting their attention from the Cormo-rant, and attracting their concentrated fire on herself. For about a quarter of an hour we held the distinguished post of engaging single-handed the whole three forts. Presently, however, the four French gun-boats, two of them on their waj to support the Cor-morant, and the other two (Avalanche and Dragonne) our sup-ports!, came slowly up ; the strong tide and the narrow river con-siderably embanassed the movements of these craft, which were of nnwieldy construction and insufficient steam-power. How-ever, when the Avalanche and Dragonne did get into position, just ahead of us, they did their work well, and for the next half hour we all three hammered away at the forts with great good-will and pertinacity, the Tartars standing to their guns better than we anticipated. The shot for the most part passed over us, some of them flying as high as the top-gallant cross-tree. One went through the topsail yard, and we saw them bobbing in all directions into the river beyond us. The French gun-boats had poops; to this may no doubt be attributed the mortality among the officers ; they lost no less than four killed, and only two men, if we exclude those killed afterward by an explosion.

The Nimiod was hulled in half a dozen places, but we had only one man killed and three wounded. The gingall fire was more telling than that of their lai^ guns. The construction of a Chinese battery renders it a somewhat difficult matter to silence them effectoally. Behind the gun is a bomb-proof chamber, con-taining the ammunition, and to which the men run for shelter. Aiker the gun is discharged the gunners disappear into this re-treat, and remain there until the enemy, having given the bat-vaj a benefit of shot and shell without reply, conclude it to be si-leiioed ; then the gunners stealthily emerge, and try, if possible, to load and fire the gun without being perceived, rushing back to their hiding-place immediately afterward. Of course, upon this syatem the firing can never be very rapid, but there is no reason why it should not last forever, unless the gun is disabled ; to pre-vent this, they generally run it behind the solid earthwork after it is fired By minute investigation with an opera-glass, we could often detect the gunners popping like rabbits out of a warren from the chamber into the batteiy, and then a shell, judiciously dropped among them, would shut up the gun for a quarter of an

202 ^^^ BATTERIES STOBBIED.

hour. As, however, there were 140 guns altogether in position^ a good deal of firing went on notwithstanding.

A little before eleven, the admirals, followed by their fleet of gon-boats, passed up the river, receiving on their way a good many stray shots that passed over us. As the interest was now to be transferred to their operations, I went up with my compon-ion to the main-top of the Kimrod, firom whence we obtained a magnificent bird's-eye view of the scene. The batteries, with their active garrisons, lay immediately at our feet We could see the gunners running in and out of their chambers, and working away like ants ; and in the plain behind, a large crowd, probably a force in reserve, who, to their intense amazement, were &vored with a shell or two immediately on our informing Captain Dew of their position and direction.

As the storming-parties landed within 800 yards of us, we could, from our elevated position, inspect their proceedings with great minuteness. The attention of the fort being concentrated upon the gun-boats in front of them, the garrison seemed unconscious of the fact that some hundreds of '^ barbarians " were landing just above them. Not knowing that our practice was to take batteries by assault, they were evidently taken completely by surprise ; and as but a few yards of mud were to be traversed at that time of tide, the men 'W^ere in the embrasures at once. In the late un-fortunate attack, the distance of mud to be crossed was mucli greater, and the garrison doubtless folly expected that we should land and storm as we had done before, and were prepared accord* ingly. We saw the leading blue-jacket jump into the battery ; an instantaneous panic spread itself like lightning along the line of batteries at our feet; and in the "sauve qui pent" which follow-ed, some amusing scenes occurred, as Jack, at the top of his speed, dodged and chased the terrified soldiers, who, with outstretched arms and nimble legs, scattered in every direction. Here and there, one more courageous than his fellows would attempt to make a stand, or apparently disbelieve the report of a flying Tar-tar, who pointed to the rear and sped on with redoubled speed ; but no sooner did the flash of the cutlass glance before his eye, than the bravest of them lost heart, and in ten minutes the whole garrison, together with the body in reserve, were scattered far and wide over the plain. Those who had a good start could afford to save their dignity, and walk composedly away ; but the stragglers

TBBBIFIC EXPLOSION. 207

in rear fled as though demons were on their track, and for the most part Airly outntn our gallant tars, whose wind was soon expend-ed, and who were obliged at lost to content themselves with stray shots at their Iight*heeled foe. After a race of this description their ttm was somewhat wild, and I saw a marine aim with great (lelibention at a man whom he had almost succeeded in nmning dowOf al a distance of about five yards, and miss him.

We now lost no time in landing ourselves, and were soon ex-ptoring the batteries and the plain behind. We met the marines and Une-jackets coming back from their chase, and the few corpses I observed on the field and in the batteries confirmed me in the impwssion that the Chinese loss had been comparatively trifling, pfobttbly not above 200 in all, including those killed on the north bnk. There can be no doubt that, if it had been desired, we mi||^li by sending a force round to the village of Takoo, have cut off dieir retreat, and caught the whole garrison in a trap fiom whidi they could not possibly have escaped.

We were the first to make an inroad upon the oranges and pomegraoates which formed part of the repast spread out for our ^pacific) entertainment in the blue tent, through the canvas of wfcicfa two or three round-shot had let in daylight Then we pfooeeded to pull down the Chinese banners, and demolishing- . parties were set to work to upset the guns and dismantle the for-tifications. We found them to be more solidly constructed than we had supposed, the three forts being composed of square blocks of atoae masonry, the sea front faced with earth ; they were about twelve &et in height, and ascended from the rear by a broad flight of atone steps.

While standing near the base of one of these, which we had just been investigating, and which was now filled with Frenchmen, we were startled by an explosion so close as to make us involuntarily retreat some yards, and inexpressibly shocked by the sight which met our eye& A crowd of French sailors rushed wounded and f«nic-stricken out of the falling buildings; some of them, tortured bejand endurance by the horrible agony, threw themselves head-]ong over the glacis into the ditch at the base. One of these wretched suiTcrcrs I observed scramble out upon the opposite bank after rolling in the muddy pool, and, though blackened to a 'k-gree which gave him more the appearance of a cinder than a man, shout with characteristic vivacity, "Vive TEmpereurl Vive

208 ASPECT OF THE FORTIFICATIONS.

la France !" as he feebly waved his cap over his head. But those who first rushed out were only the less injured; the severely wounded were now being carried down from the fort by their comrades, and the objects were so painfully disfigured, and, as they writhed and groaned with agony, presented so heart-rending an appearance, that, as we were only in the way, we hurried from the spot ; nor could I banish the scene from my memory for some time afterward. The French admiral was close by as this tragical event happened, and every assistance was instantly rendered to the suflferers, in spite of which, out of about forty who were more or less severely injured, the majority never recovered.

This incident cooled the ardor of our investigations into the for-tifications. We had indeed been over the entire length of the works, and were amazed at the calibre and exquisite finish of some of the brass guns. The sand-bag battery which connected the forts had been well constructed, and had afforded sufficient shelter to enable the gunners to annoy us considerably. Num-bers of beautifully-made rockets were piled up in different direc-tions, and bags of powder lay scattered about. Some good canis-ter-shot was lying about, as well as hollow 8-inch. There were also several English guns in the batteries. A battery of 200 gin-galls, all laid close together in line, each about ten feet long, and carrying a pound ball, looked like a gigantic "infernal machine," and, properly worked, makes doubtless a formidable defense. Camps were situated behind the forts, and looting-parties rum-maging out the tents for swords, etc., etc., every now and then unearthed a Chinaman. One of our own men, who had foolishly dressed himself in some of the clothes he had discovered, was un-happily shot by mistake for one of the enemy.

As it was not yet midday, and we still heard firing round the bend of the river, we were anxious to push up, if possible, to Ta-koo, and were glad to take advantage of the gun-boat Firm, which was dispatched to the front for the purpose of collecting wounded. On our way we observed some stranded fire-rafts, which were still burning, having been towed on shore. An attempt had also been made to send down some lighted junks, filled with straw, which fortunately proved abortive.

As we passed the northern forts, and saw the flanking fire to which they had been exposed firom the Cormorant's heavy guns, we did not wonder at the rapidity with which they were evacu-

CAPTUBE OF THE LAST BATTEBT. 209

ated — our landing-parties, tinder Captains Sir Frederick Nicolson, Sherard Osbom, and Commander Cresswell, together with the French landing-party, having entered them without opposition. After the usual amount of tricolors, eta, had been stuck up, the French oroased over to the left bank, and the men of the Pique, Furious, and Surprise followed the garrison of the forts, who were in full retreat upon two intrenched camps, one of which contained the cavalry force already alluded to. These camps were situated dose to the river, and were protected in that direction by a for-midable battery, which commanded the entire length of the reach. The shore-party, advancing over a fiat salt plain, were covered on their left fiank by the Bustard, Opossum, and Stanch, which were exposed to the whole fire of the battery as they advanced up the reach. A sharp engagement followed between these three little gon-boats and the battery, in which they lost two killed and five wounded ; but upon the landing-party coming up at the double, and taking them in flank, the panic usual in such cases was fol-lowed by an utter rout, and the assailants, whose attention was particularly directed to the flying cavalry, only succeeded in knocking over a few of them as they fled across the open.

This episode had just terminated when we arrived. Each camp contained about twenty-five field-pieces^ 6-pounders, four heavy fatasB guns throwing 68-pound shot, and a dozen iron guns of a new construction, on capital carriages, throwing an 18-pound ball. There was computed to have been about a thousand men in each battery, with abundance of admirable gingalls. We now moved up to Takoo, where a barrier of junks moored right across the rirer^ debarred our farther progress. A battery of eighteen field-picoeai which was deserted as we approached, flanked this barrier, and so we immediately landed and took possession of it. Just be-hind this battery was the village of Takoo, the houses of one story, built of mud, and divided by narrow streets, and in evei^ respect nmilar to a fellah village on the banks of the NUe. A crowd of people had collected about fifty yards distant, conscious, apparent-lj« that we should not mistake them for soldiers, and watched our prooeedings with great coolness and interest

We we^ enabled to communicate with them through Mr. Wade, who now arrived, together- with some others of our party. In answer to our inquiry, they informed us that the joss-house in the neighborhood had been the residence of the Imperial Commis-

O

210 nCFERIAL EDICT.

doner Tan, so we immediately decided on paying it a visit We were aooompanied by several yiUagers, who appeared so perfectly firiendly that three or four blue-jackets formed our only eaoort On our way we found the headless trunk of a man lying acito the path, who, the villagers informed us, had been behc^suled in the morning for running away. We soon broke open the doors of the joss-house, proved to be the Hai-chin-Miao, or Temple of the Sea-God (the same at which Lord Macartney visited the Oovern-or of the province), and were received by ^me priests, who not xmnaturally betrayed a little nervous agilktion. We assured them we only wished to ransack Tan's private room for papeis. We discovered none, however, of any importance ; though, from the concision in which we found his apartments, he had evi-dently left ia a hurry. A mandarin officer of some importance, who had committed suicide by cutting his throat, was also found in the house. We afterward discovered that this was Tehlcwei, the acting commandant at the defense of the forts. The follow-ing extract &om the Pekin Oazette^ showing how the government of China deal with their officers who are Ruilty of fidlure, will prove that this unhappy mandarin only antic^ his destiny by a few months :

'' The Prance of Hwui and others have, in concert with the Board of Punishments, presented a memorial setting forth the penalties they find the laws to award to the different omceis whom we had directed them to try for the loss of the port of Tien-tsing. The following officers already degraded — ^namely, Chang Tien-yuen, commander-in-chief of the Chinese army of Chih-li, Tanien, acting as general-in-command of the Tien-tsing division of the same, and Tehkwei, acting commandant of Takoo, had been directed by T*an Ting-siang to occupy and defend the forts at Ta-koo, on the north and south banks of the river; Fulehtunt^ai, lieutenant general of Bannermen, had encamped at Chung-p4a, in rear and in support of Chang Tien-yuen and the rest When the barbarians opened fire they made every effort to keep them oC striking and wounding four barbarian ships, and killing several barbarian soldiers ; notwithstanding which, all the forts and all the guns were taken. Certainly, their offense is without excuse! Let Fulehtunt^ai, Chang Tien-jruen, and Tanien, who, according to the award, should properly be decapitated, be imprisoned untQ after the autumn, and then put to death."

FATE OF TAN. 211

Ab oor interoonrBe with Tan tenninated ahortl j after, in a note bom that fiictioDaiy announcing the appointment of his socoessoiBi we may not inappropriately take leave of him, now that we have completed the aearch of his premises. In the same Pekin Gazette we find the following ponidbment awarded to him : '^ T'an Ting-sang, already d^raded fiom the office of Governor General of Chih-li, has been found not guilty of cowardice and desertion ; bat, in that his operations were without plan or resource, his of-teose 18 no less without excuse. Let him be banished to the frontier,* there to redeem his guilt by his exertions."

Poor Tan was the victim of circumstances over which he cer-ttinly had no control, and it seems hard that his government should refuse him full powers in the first instance, and then pun-ish him for the inevitable consequence of his being without them.

The tendency of which our own government has been accused ^of rewarding incapacity — renders its service sufficiently dis-couraging to meritorious officers ; but even it must be preferable to one which unrelentingly visits misfortune with disgrace.

Although we did not find any papers of political importance in the residence of Tan, the following account of the memorial he aiSdreflBed to the emperor on the loss of Takoo, if true, furnishes in Mnmring illustration of the desperate fiEtlsehoods to which his unhappy srvants are compelled to resort in hope of averting the imperial displeasure. The subjoined letter was received by Mr. Lay, on his arrival at Tientsin, from a Chinese correspondent in the city, who doubtless hoped to curry favor with the barbarians by sending them information ; it must therefore be taken cum

^Tan teDs the emperor in his memorial respecting the loss of Takoo that he gained a great victoiy the day before'^ (by the day befine is meant the 20th, or day of the capture), " and destroyed sereral barbarian ships. That the capture of the forts was attrib-utable to a circumstance which it was not in his power to control. An umugully high tide on the day in question, and a sudden rush of water from the Gulf| swept away the southeast battery, and any defease of the place was rendered impossible. Long before your admird reached Tientsin, Tan had fled, and with him every soldier and brave. The magistrate is the only one who remained in the ehy. Before the fight at Takoo the emperor issued two edicts to

* Tbe oooflim of Siberia on the far wwt of the Chiaeie

212

TAN'S YAMUH.

Tan, deairiDg him to accede to your demands so &r as porta were concerned. Tan, however, did not dare to show these edicts, be-cause the J contained the word ' barbarian, ' and he was a&aid that the sight of the objectionable expression would onl j incense you. He therefore determined upon risking a trial of strength. The emperor is going to appoint Toh-mingah to treat with yon. He does not appoint Saog-ko-liQ-sin, because of his warlike disposi-tion. Our high officers dread a peisonal meeting with your em-bassadors ; they think they would be made prisoners, "as was Yeh.'* Such, according to popular gossip, was Tan's mode of account-ing for his defeat at Takoo. It is highly probable that the impe-rii edicts above spoken of actually did exist, although Tan had evidently had time to carry off all bis political documents, h

TlM " Tsmpla of iba Sea-God' (RmUcbd* cf Tui U Titos).

poem, however — ^translated, I beheve, by one of the gentlemen at-tached to the American l^ation — was afterward discovered, which ronsea our sympathies in behalf of the unhappy mandarin, and which I have thought worthy of insertion for the benefit of those who deny the existence in the Chinese bosom of the sentiment of domestic affection :

A POEM ''IN MSMORIAM."— BETUBN TO THE FUBIOU& 218

nuviLAtiov or A PosM m Mewtonam of Tan's wife. Found in his room At T^Jcoo. (The cluuracten of bUck relTety each on the lepraentation of a Chinese frnit. In eoQplets of four chancteis each.)

**hk the Htf* bowered window the spring is mild.**

L€/th<md, ** In the lanf bordered pathway the breeies are firagrant.**

[The fblkming twe-Uen, or scrolls, on bine and white silk, are funeral tributes to the Tiitaes of a distinguished lady, presented by mourning rqlatires ; blue and white being the appropriate colors of mourning.]

*-Ceaibning the qualities of Tan and Ki,t the Vermilion Pencil has honored her

with a title, failing the graces of Ha and Chang, the Scarlet Tube] has published her ezcel-

Piwstssing high rank of imperial bestowment, favor rested on her door-posts, and

ahoadant grace upon her household. Denwased with an imperial distinction, her Tirtnes were published through her natiTe

dirtrkt, and diffused the reputation of her worth. With a stimnlaot made of bean* gall exciting the studies (of her son), her excellent

example is worthy of imitation. (lad ia irofy^adomed restments, she has gone to wonhip the Thie (one) ; and her

beaerolcnt eonittenanoe, where shall we look for it? Having taaght her son to respect her example and hold fast the flsssifs, she saw

him plnck with his own hand the sprig of the qu^hwiL| Havisig aided her husband to display his Tirtoes, her gentle influence flowed over her

kindred, and she long con^manded the hearts of her relations.**

Oor eeaich was soon concluded, and as the day was now ad-vanoed, and the enemy had become inyisible, we thought it time ^ to retam to the Furious.

In the evening the second division moved up, embarked in our own gun-boats, supported by Captain Dew (of the Nimrod), to the line of junks moored abreast of the Takoo joss-house.

* M4 (fveaomeed wtey) is the name of a kind of plum indigenous to China.

^ I^a b the designation of a bulbous flowering plant of ravishing sweetness. It i» the ^5ifa« sdmta of botanists.

X Taa aad S vrere women famed fat their virtoes. Ha and Chang were ladies edbhrased far their accooplishments.

f Vcimifion Pencil and Scarlet Tube are identical flguies denoting the emperor.

* TW qa^hwi, or qu^ flower, is the Oka/hu^raMs, the blossom of which yields a fteh yavftase. This plant is aooepted as the emblem of the degree Kin-Jin, eqniva-^ •• oar ILA. ; and plucking a qvig of the qu^hwtf i% thenlbre, equivalent to at-

his aeoood literaiy degree.

214 ASPECT OF THE NOBTH EOBT.

CHAPTER 16.

CHAPTER XVL

Afioent of the Birer. — ^A Crowd of Junks.— Astoniflhmeiit of PopnlatioiL— Their sob' muBiTe Behayior. — ^Brilliant Bonfires. — ^A Steppe Country. — ^Appeanmoe of the inUages.— Difficulties of Nayigation.— First View of Tientsin.— A Depatstion of Merchants. — ^Appointment of imperial Commissioners. — ^The Flenipotentisriefl m-cend the Feiho. — ^Approach to Tientsin. — ^Dense Crowds. — '* The Temple of Sd> preme Felicity." — ^View of the Biyer. — Making ourselyes comfortable.— Bedrooos in the Temple. — ^Farther Exploration of , the Feiha — ^Arriyal of Bossian and Ajbmt-lean Ministeiv. — ^Thelr Abodes. — ^Pean. — Arriyal of the imperial Comminiooen. —Full FoweiB at last.— Our official Frocession.— " The Temple of the Oceanic Influences." — ^Intenriew with the Commissioners. — ^Elzchange of full Fowerk— Abrupt Termination of the Interyiew. — ^Arriyal of the Kwang-Fang. — ^Kwei]iisg. Hwashana.— Success of Lord Elgin^s Folicy.— Its Bearing on Affisirs at CsaloB. — ^Brighter Froopects.

The day following the capture of the forte was devoted to re-pose after our exertions. On the 22d, however, a report reached our distant anchorage, to which I had returned, that the allied ad-mirals had decided on moving up the river. It had originally been arranged that they should be accompanied in the fiist in* stance by the plenipotentiaries ; but, as it was now understood that the presence of the representatives .of all four powers— two of whom were neutrals — ^might rather prove an encumbrance than otherwise. Lord Elgin expressed his readiness to await the admi-rals' pleasure on the subject, anxious to avoid any act which^ might embarrass the naval authorities in the unlikely event of their being induced, by a very active opposition, to exchange their pacific for a warlike attituda I was, however, permitted to accompany the force upon this occasion, and found quarteis on board the Opossum, wi^ my old fiiend Commander Colin Camp-belL

On niy way I landed at the North Fort to inspect a gigantic brass gun captured by the Cormorant, and also to explore the scene oi desolation for which her guns were responsible. These forts were even more substantially constructed than those on the south side, but upon no known principle of fortification. The consequence was a terrible slaughter to the exposed garrison, twenty-nine of whom had been counted lying round their gons in

A CROWD OF JUKKa 216

one battery. The commandant of the fort had not yet been bnr-ied, and was lying at the door of his room, a roond-shot having skrack him just as he was emerging from it Eveiy bailding was riddled, and shells, entering firom the exposed rear, had burst in-aide the bomb*proof chambers, so that the garrison was little to be blamed for only waiting a quarter of an hour in so warm a lo-cality. The Cormorant moved up, the next morning, to the bar-rier, through which an opening had been made to permit the egress of the junks, which were being cleared out of the river by the admirals' and advanced gun-boats.

The villagers of Takoo now came boldly down to the water's edge and commimicated with us, and we amused ourselves and the populace by driving a donkey tandem through the narrow

About midday the Opossum was ready to start for the finont, but the passage through the junk barrier seemed an impossibility. Temple Bar on a wet day never looked more hopelessly crowded to a gentleman in a hansom anxious to catch a train, than did the junk barrier to us, anxious to overtake the admiral At last we dashed at it in despair, and by a miracle of steering, which cre-ated a panic among the crews of the junks, who were all running into each other-^crushing, jamming, and shouting at the same moment — succeeded in squeezing safely through. The breadth of the river at this point was not more than that of the Thames at Richmond Its banks were thickly fringed by long reeds, be-hind the waving tops of which salt-pans extended as fSsir as the eye ooold reach, covered with conical tumuli of varied dimen-sioiiaL Borne onward by a strong flood tide, we swept round the sharp angles with which the river abounds throughout the whole leqgth of its tortuous course from Tientsin, and soon found our-selves between banks of a more cheerful character. The gaunt reed had given place to the more profitable holcus, or Barbadoes millet^ fields of which, bordered by willows, and neatly fenced in the neighborhood of the villages, imparted quite a civilized air to tlie ooontiy.

In two hours we arrived at the reach in which the admirals were ai anchor with five gun-boats, and in company with them went quietly along, feeling our way with no little interest and cu-rioBty, up waters for the first time plowed by a foreign keel. Towud evening the mud villages beoune more numerous : theii*

216 ASTONISHMENT OF THE POPULATION.

entire populations turned out as the leading gun-boats passed, and saluted them with profound and reverential obeisances, then squatted in a long blue line upon the river's bank, and gazed in awestruck wonderment as our ardent little craft, defying wind and tide, puffed steadily along, a slight commotion under her stem being the only external evidence to the Celestial eye of the demon that was propelling her. Our progress was in some meas-ure retarded by the necessity which existed of clearing all the junks out of the river as we advanced, lest, in so narrow a stream, the authorities might order them to be sunk behind us, with the view of catching us in a trap. Although, doubtiess, this was a very proper precaution, it was perfectiy evident^ firam the panic which our appearance created, that no real danger was to be ap-prehended on this score, and that, so far firom wishing to entn^ us, they would be only too glad to get rid of us. The villag^re were clearly under the impression that we were on our way to upset the dynasty. I accompanied Captain Hall and Mr. Lay to the shore, when the latter gentleman had some communication with the people. It invariably commenced, however, with a re-quest that we should come and reign over them. " Hail, O king!'' they shouted, as we approached ; " welcome, great king I be thou our emperor; come thou and reign over. us 1" Then they would protest with the greatest earnestness their intention inmxediatelj to comply with the order to clear out tiieir junks, and offer pro-visions of all sorts, refusing to receive money ; this latter piece of politeness arising from dread of their own authorities, and the rest of their civility being based upon the alarm inspired by our-selves, and a prudent desire to propitiate the incoming dynasty. When asked to procure beef or other provisions not easy to get, they would urgentiy plead the difficulty of obtaining any, but sub-missively conclude by saying, " However, since you, the great king, command, we must obey." Meantime, when the junks did not clear out &st enough, we cut their cables, sending whole fleetB of them occasionally pell-meU down the river.

But we were not content with marking our track by these floating evidences of our progress ; our advance was heralded by huge bonfires, which were made of stacks of millet straw, their position upon the nuirgin of the river rendering them too availa-ble for fire-rafts to make it wise to leave them behind us, to be floated up with the flood tide on the first dark night As night

BBILLIANT BOKFIBBS.— A SnfEPPE COUNTBT. 217

i'loied in, the lurid glare cast by these huge conflagrationB over the aky doubtless carried terror into the hearts of mandarin and peasant, while upon ourselves the effect was no less solemn and impressive. A broad belt of light shed its glowing lustre upon a grove of large trees, illuminating its sombre recesses, but throw-ing into gloom yet deeper by contrast those which were still in shade. The thick foliage flushed for a moment, then crackled and withered up under the scorching heat, leaving the scarred and oaked branch like a maimed limb extended toward the blaze. The river eddied and rippled in the ruddy light, and the gun-boaiB, with every spar and rope vividly distinct, seemed anchored in a sheet of flame.

Oar day's work was over. We had reached a point about twen^ miles from the mouth of the river not only without mol-estation, but with every demonstration of good- will on the part of the iohabttants ; and I went to bed, encouraged by the hope that, as this absence of hostilities seemed likely to continue, we might still SQOceed with our force of nine allied gun-boats, then anchor-ed at or near the spot, in reaching Tientsin.

On the following morning we had another most convincing and. satisfactory proof of the anxiety of the enemy (if such they ooqU be called under the cirumstances) to avoid us. On going up to the fore-top of the Opossum, I observed encamped on the plain, at a distance of about a mile and a half, a large body of <«valiT, estimated at about a thousand by Captain Osbom, who, in company with Sir Frederick Nicolson, was in the Bustard and Stanch, leading gun-boats. They threw a round shot or two among them, on which they speedily decamped. They were, in all probability, the same cavalry which had retreated on the cap-ture of the forts. We were detained a few hours this morning fiir the French Admiral, who had got aground a short distance astem of us; and, in the mean time, I inspected the surrounding (txmtiy through a glass. It reminded me in many respects of the sooth of Russia. The only trees visible were those which marked the course of the Peiho ; and, indeed, inasmuch as in whatever direction one turned, the river was always in sight, the trees which wooded it were sufScient to wood the landscape as velL Throughout its whole course to Tientsin I observed no ftieam or canal of any note entering it The country stretched away to the horizon a dry brown steppe, and across it, in laby-

218 AFPEAAANCE OF THE VHXAGES.

linthine twists and most eccentric windings, the Peiho finds its way to the sea, watering at least twice the extent of coontiy which it woidd traverse did it flow in a straight line. The banks are composed of clay and sand, and I scarcely remember to have seen a stone either at Tientsin or on the way there.

Not &r from our anchorage there was a large village. On the dusty main road to it there passed a considerable traffic— cover-ed carts and donkey tandems predominated One large wagon drawn by six or eight horses, going^at full trot^ and crowded with passengers, appeared to be a stage- wagon. I also observed wheel-barrows— a man being in the shafts and a donkey leading. Some-times, these carry passengers, the occupants sitting back to back, as in an open Irish car, on each side of the single huge wheel which works in the middle, between them. I was particularly struck with the neatness of construction of the solid mud cottages of which the villages are composed. The angles are all shaiplj finished, the gables adorned with ornamental moulding, the over-hanging eaves of an excellently thatched roof neatly trimmed, and rising out of it a respectable solid pair of chimneys. Circular brick-kilns, like watch-towers, here and there dotted the land-scape, as bricks are occasionally used for joss-houses and the su-perior order of residences.

Hedges, fences, and mud walls divided the fields near the rive^ bank, but away firom the possibility of navigation the coontij looked barren and uncultivated ; primitive docks with mud dams contained junks undergoing repair or in process of construction ; and the tapering masts of these craft were visible in all directions, as they were anchored in different bends of the river. Now we could make out the smoke of our leading gun-boats to the right, now to the left;, now in fix>nt) now almost behind us, so inteimina-ble and intricate seemed the windings of the streaoL Fortonate-ly, our only difficulty lay in getting some of the larger craft round the sharp turns ; of water there was always abundance in mid-channel, the soundings never giving less than two fiithoms, and sometimes as much as seven. The French gun-boats espedallv were constantly sticking on the sharp angles, their length and want of power rendering it a difficult operation to steer them in a narrow river with a strong tide ruiming. Occasionally the Coro-mandel shared the same fiite ; but, by getting out hawsers to the shore, she was hauled into the stream ; and the villagers coadng

FIRST VIEW OF TIENTSIN. 219

to the rescae in a strong body, and tagging away cheerfully at the Topea, fiicilitated the task considerably. Still we did not make 80 much progress as on the previous day, having accomplished probably ten or twelve miles.

Upon several occasions official messengers, with the buttons of petty mandarins, were observed waving on the shore, and making signs of their desire to communicate with ua Only once, how-ever, was this attended to, and the messenger turned out to be the emissary of the magistrate of the district, who expressed a wish to hold interoourse with us ; the admiral, however, very properly refused to incur any delay, or open communications with any one until he arrived at Tientsin.

The next day our advance was not more rapid; indeed we were left behind by the admiral and advanced gun-boats, in con-sequence of being attached to the Fusde, a heavy French craft that stood in need of much puUing and hauling at the comers. It is worthy of note that all our eighty and sixty horse-power gun-boats traversed the river without the slightest difficulty, sub-sequently making the passage in eight hours ; and even the Cor-monuQt dispatch gun-vessel got up to Tientsin ftom Takoo in about twelve hours.

We passed in the course of the day a barrier of junks, which, however, were soon sent floating down the stream, and offered no material impediment to our advance. On the 26th we reached a point within a mile and a half of Tientsin, the country as we ad-vanced having become more thickly populated, the banks more riddy cultivated, and the river itself more crowded with junks. • From the mast-head of the Opossum the gates and pagodas of the city were distinctly visible. It was reported that the Bustard and Stench had actually reached the suburb, and as the achievement bad thns been successfully completed, the Opossum was sent back to the Gulf with the news, and I had the satisfaction of reporting to Lord Elgin, by midnight of the same day, the gratifying intel-ligenoe of the fortunate issue of the expedition.

The admirals did in effect reach Tientsin within a few hours afterward, and Admiral Seymour was immediately waited upon by a deputation of leading merchants and gentry. These people bemg impressed with the absurd notion that our real object, in pvnoing a vigorous policy in China, was an extension of our «»mmercial relations with it, immediately offered to trade with

220 APPOINTMENT OF IMPERIAL COMMISSIONERS.

the gun-boats then at Tientsin, in spite, thej themselves KvemA^ of the opposition of their government, and requested the admiral to send in a list of the merchandise he wished to dispose of, to-gether with their prices ; and, in consideration of his finding a ready market, they went on to express a hope that he would spare the town. Mr. Lay informed these gentlemen that we desired not trade, but commissioners, and that, if these did not speedily make their appearance, he feared the town would be destroyed; upon which the deputation stated that they would themselires proceed to Pekin, and knock without ceasing at the imperial pal-ace ; and they guaranteed that by their importunity they would obtain commissioners, and hoped that in the mean time their au-gust excellencies, then in the river, would be satisfied with abund-ance of beef and provisions, upon which numbers of oxen were incontinently brought to the bank and sacrificed as peace-offeritags. • ••.•••

During my absence the Sampson had arrived from Hong Eong with the Woodcock and Kestrel, forty-horse-power gun-boats, in tow, and having on board a company of Boyal Engineers 105 strong.

On the following morning Mr. Bruce proceeded up the river to make arrangements for the reception of the embassador, and on the 29th news was received from him that these were completed, and that no obstacle remained to impede the immediate progress of the allied plenipotentiaries.

On the same day another and more important communicatioD , was received, the last with which we were fisivored from our old firiends Tan, Tsung, and Wu. It inclosed, Tvithout conmient, a copy of the following imperial decree : " We command Kweiliang, Chief Secretary of State, and Hwashana, President of the Board of Civil Office, to go by post-route to the port of Tientsin, for the investigation and dispatch of business. Bespect this."

The fact that this document emanated fix>m the court immedi-ately on the report reaching Pekin of the arrival of our gun-boats at Tientsin not .only thoroughly bore out the view of the plenipo-tentiaries in the estimate they- had formed of the probable efifects of the policy they had pursued hitherto, but served as a most complete justification of that policy, inasmuch as the imperial government, by at once superseding Tan & Company, tacitly ac-knowledged their mismanagement of affairs, and, by the appoint-

THE PLENIFOTENTIABIES ASCEND THE PEIHO. 221

meni of two new commiasioners, gave a fresh proof of tfaebdesire U> settle matters amicably. With any other nation one would have sapposed that the captore of the forts at the mouth of one of its rivers, and its subsequent ascent by a hostile force, would have called forth a warlike demonstration instead of a civil com-misBioii*

The Chinese differ, however, from other nations, and fortunate-ly the plenipotentiaries appreciated the distinction. This news, ot coone, rendered their immediate departure for Tientsin more than ever imperative, and it was therefore arranged that Lord Elgin and Baron Gros should proceed up the river the same even-ing. As it was discovered at the last moment that the French gun-boat impropriated to Baron Groses use was unable to ascend the river from defective machinery, his excellency and staff ac-companied the English mission in the Slaney. A lovely moon lighted up the windings of our watery path, and tempted us to re-main on deck till a late hour ; and as we swept rapidly past grove and hamlet, we regarded with wonder, in the pale clear gleam of that midnight hour, all the evidences of a population as tranquil and anauspecting of danger as though the thunder of barbarian guns had never fallen on their ears, or as if their countrymen fly-ing before the barbarian bayonet was a sight devoid of all signifi-

Yet scarce a week had elapsed since the fortifications these poor peasantry had gazed on wonderingly as impregnable fortresses had been leveled with the ground, and an army, in their eyes in-vincible, had been scattered to the winda Now the pant of the flteam-engine mingled with their dreams, but was powerless to keep them awake ; and so thoroughly was this mutual confidence established, that a solitary gun-boat, in the dead of night, wa&« fearlessly threading its way through an enemy ^s country, along the narrow and devious liver which formed the high road to the capital, the mysteries of which, a week before, were unknown to the foreigner; and on board that lonely bark which now traversed it for almost the first time were the embassadors of the two great-eat powers in the world, forcing their way into the heart of a eoontry oontaining 800,000,000 inhabitants, in defiance of the will of the government, as expressed by an overt act of hostility only a few days before. Probably no British minister ever performed a joamey in the country to which he was accredited under such

222 APPROACH TO TIENTSIN.— DENSE CROWDS.

aaomglous circumstances as those which attended the one upon which Lord Elgin was now engaged ; not even Loids Macartney and Amherst, when in the same capacity they ascended this same river in Chinese junks, and inscribed themselves as*" tribute bear-ers" on the flags which floated from their mast-heads.

Daylight found us in the suburbs of Tientsin, the first aspect of which, as approached from the east, is most remarkable ; enormous stacks of salt, numbering from two to three hundred, line the banks of the river for some hundreds of yards below the town; these stacks vary in length fix>m two hundred to six hundred feet, and average about a hundred in breadth ; they are twenty or thirty feet in height, shaped like the rounded top of a carrier's wagon, and covered with matting, or thatched with nullet straw, the salt being stacked in bags. Passing these, we arrived at a bridge of boats, which connected one of the suburbs with the city, and which was opened to let us through. The river now flows be-tween banks ten or twelve feet high, and densely populated ; the mud houses were packed closely on either side, and their oocn-pants still more compactly wedged, not only down to the water's edge, but into it up to their waists, in order to gaze at their ease on the phenomenon before them. Thus an oblique plane of up-turned faces and bare heads extended almost finom the sur&ce of the water to the eaves of the houses ; and up to the last day of our residence the banks were always more or less crowded .with spectators watching the movements of the barbarians. A long straight* reach extends £rom below the bridge of boats to the point of the junction of the river and the grand canal, which enters the Peiho at right angles from the southward, and here terminates its extended course of about 600 miles.

Directly &cing us, as we steamed up this reach, past a line of our own gun-boats, which were anchored in it, was a picturesque line of buildings, abreast of which the allied admirals were moor-ed. This &agile and somewhat fantastic construction suggested the notion of a summer palace. We were informed that as such it had, in fact, served the Emperor Kien-lung, in honor of which happy event it had been invested by imperial patent with the tide of " The Temple of Supreme Felicity," under which auspicioufl designation it was now about to serve as our abode.

We were soon clambering up the steep bank, finding some dif-ficulty in freeing ourselves firom the services which were officious-

VIEW OF THE RIVER. 228

1 J preased upon us by the Chinamen who crowded it, and who, thrating forth helping hands, seemed anxious to show us every msrk of civility. We found, when we stood within the walls which inclosed our future residence, that it was not belied by its external aspect As is generally the case in China, it served the double purpose of a temple and a palace, though it had not been honored with the imperial presence since the Emperor Eien-lung hmd made it his temporary abode.

Upon the top of the wall, which was only separated from the edge of the river-bank by a narrow pathway, were two large apart-ments of light and graceful construction, surrounded by verandas elaborately carved, in which depended monster horn lanterns, gaudily painted, as transparent as ground glass, and decorated with innumerable tassels and silken hangings. The Chinese have carried the art of fabricating these lanterns to great perfection. They first soften the horn by the application of a very high de-grte of moist heat, and then extend it into thin lamin» of any shape, either flat or globular. The walls of these rooms were composed of paper pasted upon the wooden trellis-work ; the slid-ing panels into which it was divided were made to answer the purpose of windows. When they were all shut, however, the pa-per was so transparent that there was plenty of light, and on a sunny day the glare was unpleasant These two buildings were thirty or forty yards apart, and connected by a veranda which ran along the top of the wall, and terminated in two quaint little ki-oaks, their upturned roofs supported by carved posts. These apartments were appropriated by Baron Gros and Lord Elgin ; that occupied by the latter being perched upon an artificial mound, laid out in true Chinese taste, and lyacended by steps of ornament-al rock-work. Overhanging the river, they commanded an extens-ive and ever^interesting view : below them, a dozen English and French gun-boats, some of them moored within pleasant conver-aalioDal distance, imparted a satiafisutoiy sense of security to the position.

Not a single native crafi, except an occasional ferry-boat, rip-pled the surfiice of the stream or reposed upon its waters. What a metamorphosis had been wrought in a few hours by the magic devil-ships from the West I We were not able to appreciate it, but to the Chinese the change must have been startling and sig-oifteant. We learn from the accounts of the embassies of Lords

224 UAKING OmtSELVES COUFORTABLE.

Macartney and Amherst how active the river life at Tientmn was in their day. " We crossed a bridge over the river," says the hia-torian of Lord Amherst's mission, " the Burface of which was scarcely visible from junks;" and again, "I counted 200 specta-tors on one junk, and these vessels were innumerable." The spectators were aa numerous as ever, but their posts of observation were no longer junks. People and houses completed the view from these windows — a part of the city wall, one of the gates, and some pagodas, appearing at no great distance lo the right

The personnel of the two miBsions were accommodated in the temple, and other buildings all inclosed within one outer wall. A partition wall, however, divided us from our allies. They occu-pied a number of detached summer-houses, dotted about a garden. We established ourselves in the innermost recesses of the temple^ our bedrooms furnished with sacred pigs and bronzes, in which smouldered eternal fire (until we came and allowed it to go oat) ; our slumbers presided over by grim deities with enormous stom-

T^f [.u[ ' I ii'i iijimiifiifflift*

achs, or many-armed goddesses, with heads encircled io a blaze of goldeo or rather brass flame. The perfume of incense atitl clang;

OUB QUABTEBS IN THE TEBiPLK 226

to these sacred purlieus. Would it had been the only odor to which our nostrila were subjected I Now began the process com-monly known as *^ shaking down" into our quarters : altars were turned into wash-hand-stands ; looking-glasses were supported against little gods; tables, chairs, and beds were indented for upon certain venerable citizens, who had been appointed by the authorities to attend to our wants. Doubtless they must have wondered much at many of our demands, and some of them — ^as, for instance, tube — ^they never succeeded in satisfying.

Servants with a white badge, emblem of an armistice, attached to their coats, waited assiduously upon us, perpetually presenting us with little cups of tea ; indeed, for the first few days a man was always walking about with a teapot, ready at the shortest notice to refresh the thirsty soul. The tables with which we were sup-plied were solidly constructed and well carved, square in shape, as Chinese tables always are. A red cloth, elaborately embroider-**dj served as a table-cloth, and, falling to the ground in front, con-cealed the \egfi of the table. The high-backed uncomfortable chairs were similarly decorated, gorgeous enough to look upon, but very difligreeable to use. Some of us erected our musquito-curtains over sqoaro wooden ottomans; others slept upon a brick platform, generally used in China, and which in cold weather is heated by fires from beneath, after the manner of an oven — an unhealthy style of bed-place at all times, it should seem, for in summer the damp is apt to strike through the bricks, and in winter, when they are not only dry, but heated, a semi-baking process must be more or less prejudicial

In firoQt of the temple was a square court-yard which was par-tially shaded by the spreading arms of a fine old tree ; however, we thought nature required a little assistance ; so the whole court was matted in, which not only added to the picturesque effect of oar abode, and enabled those of us with vivid imaginations to fimcy themselves in Italy, but was of a most practical utility in reducing the temperature, when mind and matter were both in danger of being melted entirely away. A raised flagged passage intersected this court, and on each side of it was a quaint little kiosk, the roof sepoimted by four carved pillars, also elaborately carved, brilliant-iv oolored, and surmounted with dragons' heads, rampant fish, and other devices. In one of these a marble slab was erected ver-acallj upon an elevated stone platform, and was covered with

P

226 ARRIVAL OF RUSSIAN AND AMERICAN MINISTERS.

Chinese cliaracters, alleged to have been traced by the hand of the Emperor Kien4ung, and to embody a high moral sentimait.

The building on the oppodte side of the court-yard was formed into the guard-house, the guard being usually composed of engi-neers and marines, and numbering upward of a hundred men. At-tached to this building were the servants' offices, and behind them the stables. Our establishment was thus very complete ; and it was not without a feeling of regret that I saw it dismantled, pre-paratory to its restoration for the rites of paganism, when, after having occupied it for upward of a month, we looked back upon it for the last time.

As it had been deemed not impossible that it might be neces-sary to advance at some future period nearer to the capital, the ad-miral had been induced to push two of the gun-boats on an ex-ploratory expedition still fiEuiiher up the Peiho. One of these, the Kestrel, was of the smallest class, and, drawing only five feet water, was well adapted for the service. At a distance of about ten miles, however, above Tientsin, even this di^ught proved too much, and she was compelled to return, haying solved the problem that, unless considerably lightened, and not with oertain-ty even then, the ascent of the Peiho to Toong-chow would be im-practicable for our gun-boats at that season of the year. From the high-water marks on the river-banks, however, there can be little doubt that at certain periods of the year the Peiho would be nav-igable for all classes of our gun-boats. She reported the character of the river-banks above Tientsin to be unchanged.

On the afternoon of the day of our arrival. Count Poutiatine and Mr. Beed arrived together in the Russian steamer " Amerika,'* and immediately issued a proclamation stating that their visit to Tientsin was altogether of a pacific character. The attitude they found themselves thus compelled to assume was not without its inconveniences as compared with ours ; for, although exact in the payment of our just debts, we insisted upon all our reasonable wants being promptly and satis&ctorily supplied. Thus we had at once appropriated the most convenient and respectable resi-dence we could find ; but our neutral allies had some difficulty in renting a house on shore : the proprietor (doubtless a good deal puzzled as to the relation of might .and right in his view of the state <^ matters generally) made a novel proposition in the shi^ of an offer of 6000 dollars if they would not rent it This, how-

THEIB ABODBa— PSAN. 227

erer, was declined, the difficully somehow or other overcome and a handflome rent for the short space of one month was ultimately preaed upon the reluctant owner. To judge £rom the appearance of the mansion, he was a rich man. Mr. Beed lived in a charming retreat with a Levantine air about it ; a court-yard with flowers and IboTi tains, and ponds full of gold-fish was surrounded by cool, aiiy j^Mttments with paper walls, and verandas and balconies over-hanging the river. Count Poutiatine lived next door — a strip of intervening building which was impr^nable fit>m without, and cousecrated to the use of the female portion of the Chinese own-er's establishment, alone separating him from his colleague.

This residence was on the right bank of the river, and within view of our yamun, though distant from it about half a mile. Ere long the flags of our respective nations, waving proudly in the breeze, signified to the Chinese world of Tientsin the distinct-ive abodes of the chie& of the four barbarian hordes who had thus bddly located themselves in their city.

In a oountry which abounded with horses and roads, it was not la be soppoeed that persons of an exploratory tendency were to be aatiafied with pedestrian excursions; we therefore sent in a requisition for a certain number of steeds, and, after some delay, were fnnud&ed with what appeared the scum of the stables of Tientsin. These were indignantly rejected, and we ultimately ob-tained six very respectable ponies, and six very uncomfortable dunese saddla^ veiy hard and angular, and garnished with ex-tennve drapery, and an awkward bolster-shaped protuberance in ttoBL To these uncouth contrivances, however, we ultimately bfwmie aocustomed ; and I had minutely explored the countiy nmnd Tientsin within a radius of about six miles before we left it

InleUigenoe now reached us of the near approach of the com-mi— ■ciiieia, and Mr. Lay received a note from his firiends who had fomed the deputation on the day of the admiral's arrival, calling Ids attention to the fact of their prompt nomination as a proof thei their promise had been fulfilled. This news was confirmed CO the following day (2d of June) by the prefect of the city, Pean, who came to pay us a visit, ostensibly to see that our wants were — pplied, and inform us of the proximity of the commissioners, b^ really to investigate the barbarian character, and acquire im* in the eyes of the comnussioners by the &ot of his hav-

228 AKKIYAL OF THE COBIMISSIONEBS.

ing had personal intercourse with us — ^a proceeding the dangers of which he would no doubt discant upon, as also the wonderful tal-ent he displayed in *' soothing" our "uncontrollable fierceness."

In consequence, probably, of his own representations of his qualifications for the office, he was afterward appointed one of the subordinates in carrying on negotiations, and proved to be a self-sufficient ambitious "intriguant:" his dishonesty, however, was so transparent, and his general bearing so offensive, that he soon became as obnoxious to his own superiors as he was to us. Upon this occasion of his first interview his manner was one of fiiwning servility, while his aspect and gestures were so effeminate that the description of one of our party, who called him " a laige flirt," was most appropriate. Notwithstanding an immense deal of in-sinuating giggle and coquetry, he failed in his principal object of seeing Lord Elgin, and returned very little wiser than when he came.

On the afternoon of the same day I was taking a ride with Fitz Boy, making trial of our ponies and of the road to Pekin for the first time, when a cortege, preceded by a doud of dust^ indicated the approach of some grand personages. Presently appeared runners with rods of office, corresponding to javelin-men: these cleared the way, and forced the people to the right and left; then followed two stately chairs, each borne by eight stalwart bearers^ containing two of the most elevated dignitaries in the realm. The common people at once brought themselves up to the attitude " attention," the hands being pressed on the outside of the thigh, and the body maintained erect and motionless. We could scarce-ly make out the features of the inmates through the small win-dow of the chair, across which was stretched fine gauze; but, though in all probability we were the first barbarians they had ever set eyes upon, they gazed, with all the imperturbability of Chinese dignity, impassively in fix)nt of them, their countenanoes manifesting neither curiosity, alarm, surprise, or any emotioii whatever. Lnmediately behind was a dense and dusty crowd of footmen and horsemen, evidently coming off a journey, and, though many of them were handsomely appareled, and were doubtless officials of some rank, they looked worn and tiavel-stained. A number of excellent well-built covered baggage-wag-ons, drawn by four or six large fat mules, completed the prooes-sion, which was evidently one not of display, but of serious eaniest.

OUR OFFICIAL PROCESSION. 229

On the folloiring day, our conjecture that we had witnessed the entry of the oommissioners was confirmed by the communication they addressed to Lord Elgin, in which, after styling themselves imperial oommisBionerB and ministers, they announced their arriv-al with foil powers, and fixed the day after for an interview. In answer to this communication the embassador informed the com-mtanoners that, although the nature of their powers was not de-scribed in their letter, still, inasmuch as they appeared, according to the title by which they announced themselves, to be invested with authority corresponding to that conferred upon him as the pleni-potentiary minister of his sovereign, he would make no objection to meet the oonrnxissioners at the hour they named, *' to the end that, by an exchange of powers, all doubt may be removed as to the sinceri^ of an intention on both sides to terminate existing differences by peaceful negotiation."

It did, indeed, seem to augur fi^vorably that the term " Minister bearing full powers" should have been used, as upon no former occasion had a Chinese functionary been invested with this title, and all previous demands for a commissioner so named had met with a decided refusal. It was consequently arranged that the in-terview should take place in a temple dedicated to the '* Oceanic Influences." This building was situated in the middle of a plain at some distance from the town, and upward of three miles from oor yamun. The midday sun had now become so powerful that it was considered expedient, for the sake of the soldiers forming the guard, that the ceremony should be postponed until late in the afternoon.

At 8 P.M. on the following day we left the yamun, the ther-mometer then standing at 133^ in the sun. The procession was composed of the embassador and suite, in twelve chairs, accom-panied by a guard of honor of 150 marines, preceded by the band of the Cidcutta. Lord Elgin's chair was of the description usual-ly employed by mandarins of the highest rank, much larger than the ordinary size, surmounted by a brass knob, and borne by eight bear^ers. To avoid a long detour, the chairs were sent round to meet ns, and we crossed the river in boats. As usual, a dense crowd lined the river-banks, evincing the most eager interest and cQrio«itT. Upon the guard presenting arms, the band striking up "Qod save the Queen," and the procession forming and com-menchif? to move, this was converted into excitement ; nor, in*

230 OUB OFFICIAL FB0CB8SI0K.

deed, was it to be wondered at that an ereot altc^gether miprece-dented, and of so Btrikisg and novel a character, should create some sensatioD. A proceasion of 200 Chinamen marching down the Strand armed with epe&rs, and bowa and arrows, or gigantic matchlocks, with their own tails reaching to their heela, and aqoir re] tails adorning their conical caps, with dragon-emblazoned breasts, and trowaers and sleeTes of equal dimensions — sorroond-ing chairs of state containing obese dignitaries, with peacocks' feathers and red balls on their head, would probably attract s crowd ; and should this crowd hare become strongly impreeeed with the belief that in this outlandish proceffiion they were gazing upon specimens of the race into whose hands the government of the country was about to pass, their countenance would betray s more than ordinary interest. But the effect, even then, upon an English mob would not be so great as that which our appearance was calculated to create, inasmuch as Chinamen do ocoasionaUj perambulate the streets of London, and this type of countenance and peculiarity of costume is familiar to every child who is fcmd of picture-books. But in a country where an " Illustrated Pekin News" does not exist, and the Chinese costume is popularly sap posed to be the only dress known in the world at large, tJie ap pearance of our red-coated marines and codced-hat diplomatee must have been sufficiently startling.

Our way for nearly two miles led through the extensire suburb which surrounds Tientsin in almost every direction — the windiag streets choked with people, who only allowed a narrow lane for the passage of the procession, and who bobbed as each suooeesive chair passed down to the level of the vrindow, bo as to have a good view of the inmate.

The most perfect order and silence was maintained througbont, and every sign of oatward respect shown in the demeanor of the

ASTONISHMENT OF THE CHINESE. 281

people, whose heads were unoovered and tails let down : the lat-ter onljf howerer, is the nsnal Chinese mark of respect The ahops were all shut ; but our confined position in chairs, added to the intense heat, which rendered the task of observation irksome, and the dense crowd which confined its range, prerented onr doing more on this occasion than obtaining a cursoiy impression of the snrroonding scene. At last we emerged from the labyrinth of scroetB we had been threading, and found onrselTes on a vast open plain, and in the distance observed the group of buildings, situ-ated upon a slight eminence, and in an isolated position, which was our destination. The intervening distance was thickly dot-ted with human beings, reminding one of the Epsom Downs on a Derby day.

As we i4>proached the building, the sounds of shrill pipe and tom-tom fell upon the ear, and mingled with the martial sounds of our band. A feeble intimation was made to Major Boyle, com-manding the marines, that he was not to enter the gate of the court with the guard. This, however, he very properly disregarded, and aoon the discordant music emitted by half a dozen blind perform-ei% who stood at the door, and played probably the same air with which Lord Macartney had been honored, of '* subjugation per-ieeted,*^ was completely drowned in a stentorian adieu to our ** own Marianne." The group of buildings inclosed within the outer wall which we had now entered was composed of temples, andienee halls, and priests' houses, separated by court-yards of diffierent dimensions, in which were planted rows of trees and flow-ering phnts, the whole covering a considerable area. The au-dience hall in which the oonmiissionerB were waiting had very much the i^peaiance of a deep veranda, as it was entirely open to the court-yard on one mde, from which it was approached by a flight of slepsL Opposite to these the marines drew up. The oommisnoneiB came down the steps to meet Lord Elffin as he got o«at of his chair; the guard presented arms, and the Dand played the National Anthem. The effect of this mixture of European aod Chinese ceremony was striking even to us, who were faniiliar with both ; but to the conunissionerB, totally unacquainted with Eoropeans, the sudden appearance of 150 stalwart bearded sol-dierSv 00 they poured into the inmost court of the temple, must have been alarming; and as the hoarse word of command was given within a £ew yards of them, followed by the ringing dink

282 INTERVIEW WITH THE COMMISSIONERS.

of the muskets on the paved yard, and the roll of the big dram, they might be excused if a momentary suspicion flashed acroes their minds that the &te of Yeh might be in reserve for them.

Lord Elgin was now invited to a seat at a long table, coyered with sundry descriptions of Chinese delicacies, the commissioners being seated upon either side of him. After the Whole party had been accommodated with chairs round this table, and the usual preliminary compliments had passed, the embassador stated that the object of the meeting being, as is usual in such cases, an ex-change of fall powers, he had brought his, and they were forth-with produced and read.

The full powers of the commissioners were then handed to Kweiliang, upon a tray covered with a doth of imperial yellow. The venerable mandarin, after receiving them with every mark of respect, and holding them for a moment elevated above his head in a reverential attitude, handed them to Mr. Wade, who translated the document. Although the terms of the decree con-ferring full powers on the imperial commissioners were reasona-bly large, still Lord Elgin, on inquiry, ascertained that the com-missioners had not been put in possession of a seal of office, tenn-ed the Kwang-fang. When he complained of this omission, he was informed by them that this seal was only given to officeis holding permanent situations. Being apprehensive that some mystification might be involved in this explanation, he deemed the circumstance one which warranted him in manifesting some displeasure. Kor was he sorry to avail himself of the opportuni-ty, knowing the importance which the Chinese attach to expres-sion and manner, to make his dissatisfaction apparent Among the Chinese the physiognomy and deportment of the individual are carefully noted, as indices of the spirit in which the afEurs with the management of which he is intrusted are likely to be conducted ; and in their dealings with foreigners especially, we have repeated evidence, from the accounts given in their official dispatches of the varied expression of the barbarian countenance, that the functionaries employed were m\xc\^ guided in the tone they held by the emotions they thought they could detect as por-trayed in the physiognomy.

Lord Elgin had arrived at Tientsin as the representative of a nation whose dignity had been outraged. It had been necessary to have recourse to violence, and to force an entry into the ooun-

EXCHANGE OF FULL FOWEBS. 233

oy, to obtain satisfaction for insults : and any symptom of reluct-anoe to grant it rendered a stem, uncompromising bearing doubly Qeceasary. He accordingly declined the refireshment which was pressed upon him, and terminated the meeting abruptly, stating, as he did so, that he would reserve for a written communication any remarks he might have to make upon the subject of the full powers. As he descended the steps to his chair, the most undis-guised dismay was depicted on the countenances of the commis-aoners and their satellites, the former hurrying after the embas-ador to his chair with a profusion of protestations and remon-strances.

This meeting was productive of the most salutary effect, and led predaely to the result desired by Lord Elgin. A communi-cation from the commissioners arrived very shortly aflerward, re-questing that Mr. Lay might be allowed to visit them, and assist them with hip advice in the difficult circumstances in which they found themselves placed. Mr. Lay's position at Shanghai, where be bekl the appointment under the Chinese government of Li-spector of Customs, had brought him into close and intimate con-lact with their officials ; and he possessed their confidence to an extent probably never accorded to a European. As Lord Elgin had the highest opinion of this gentleman's capacity and judg-ment, it was most desirable that the Chinese should place him in the position relatively to themselves in which Lord Elgin most wished to see him. From this period Mr. Lay was in daily com* munication with the Chinese commissioners, and affiiirs were ihut^ eariy put into a train which enabled them to be brought to a gpeedj and satisfactory conclusion.

The mission of Mr. Lay, however, being somewhat of il confi-dential or non-official character. Lord Elgin kept up his official interoourse with the commissioners by insisting that the Kwang-fiuig should be obtained without delay. In this application he was qaite successful ; the Kwang-fang was sent down from Pekin, and the much vexed question of full powers set finally at rest

Such was the nature and such the results of the first interview of Lord Elgin with the imperial commissioners. It did not last a quarter of an hour; nor did the embassador again visit the '* Tem-ple of the Oceanic Influences," or meet the commissioners, till he went there finally to sign the treaty. At the ceremony above de-

ibed, the commissioners were dressed in the plain but hand-

284 KWEILUJIO.

some costunid of thfi Chinese manrjurin, the only mark denotiiig their high rank being the opaque red button and peacock's feath-er; a tippet of rich maroon silk covered theirshouldeis andamu; and, with the exception of one or two rings, &eir persons weie de-void of all ornament. Ab is usual upon all occaaions of ceremo-niiil interviews, numbers of minor of&cials crowded the apartment, eagerly listening to the conversation, while four or five int^Uigest-looking eecretariefl took notes in writing of all that passed.

The senior commiasioner, Kweiliang, was a venerable man, of placid and benevolent expression, with a countenance full of iu-

KwaiUui)(, Hia Impariil

telligence, though his eye was somewhat dimmed, and his hand palsied from extreme age. Hia manners were polished and dig-nified, and his whole bearing that of a perfect genUeman. He is a Tartar, and has psen to hia present high position after a long course of services. His brother Hiang was governor general ol the Two Kianga (in one of which Shanghai is situated), and his account of the visit of Mr. Maclane to the neighborhood of Soo-

HWASHANA. 235

cbow has been already alluded to. Kweiliang himself was gov-ernor general of the province of Chib-li at the period of Sir John Bowhng's visit to the Gulf of Peohelee in 1854. He then rank-ed IB second Manchu in the empire, Ya-ching, the Koior chief secretary or prime minister, being the first Yu-ching died dur-ing the negotiations. His ftill titles, under vhich he signed the treaty, were as follows: "Kweiliang, a senior Chief Secretary of Slate, styled of the East Cabinet, Captun General of the Palin White Banner of the Manchu Banner Force, and Superintendent Qeneral of the Administration of Criminal Law." His colleague, Hwashasa, a mandarin of the aame grade, was a much younger man, with a aquare, solid iace, and a large nose. Id general ap-pearance he reminded one strongly of the pictures of Oliver Crom-weQ; and in the lines of the lower part of bis coontenance mach finnnea and decision of character were apparent He styles him-self "one of his imperial majesty's Expositors of the Classics, Manchu President of the Office for the Regulation of the Civil

286 SUCCESS OF LOBD ELGIN'S POLICY.

Establishment, Captain General of the Bordered Blue Banner of the Chinese Banner Force, and Visitor of the OflBice of Interpreta-tion." The accompanying p<Mraits are copied from photogn^hs taken by the Hon. N. Jocelyn.

Within the two or three days following our meeting with the Chinese commissioners, Baron Gros; Count Foutiatine, and Mr. Reed had interviews with their excellencies, and expressed them-selves respectively satisfied with the full powers which they pro-duced.

It will thus appear, from the above narrative of events, that the allied plenipotentiaries had every reason to be satisfied with the results of the policy they had persevered in hitherto, in spite of the many obstacles which had been interposed. It was evi-dent that the imperial cabinet was thoroughly alarmed, and ^t the plenipotentiary commissioners sent down to treat were pre-pared to make an extensive sacrifice of national prejudices in or-der to relieve the government from the standing menace which was presented by our appearance at Tientsin, and naval occupa-tion of the Peiho to that point

The opinion recorded by Lord Elgin on the occasion of his first arrival in China, that the only solution of the problem, as it then stood, was in the exercise of a moral pressure of this description in the neighborhood of the capital, was now in process of justifi-cation. By these means alone he conceived that, without in any way interfering with the flourishing trade which, in spite of our misunderstanding with the imperial authorities in the south, was being carried on at the ports, and any interruption to which would have been most disastrous to our commercial interests, the great object of the mission he had undertaken to China might be gain* ed, and a lasting and satisfactory treaty effected. But it had seemed almost hopeless that, with the limited force at that early period at his disposal, any such measure could ever be successful-ly undertaken. Baron Gros not having arrived, the French sup-port was hypothetical. An army of scarce 2500 men, still on their way from England, and the naval force then on the station, composed the entire resources upon which the embassador could depend in the attempt he was about to make to obtain satisfac-tion from the imperial government, and extort from it a treaty of a more extensive scope than that which was granted to Sir Hen-ry Pottinger only aflcr two thirds of the sea-board bad been rav-aged, the imperial troops repeatedly vanquished, and the princi-

ITS B£ARINa ON AFFAIRS AT CAim)K. 237

pal cities of the empire stormed and captured. The expenditure of men alone upon that occasion, from sickness and other causes, was numerically as large as the whole force with which greater results were now to be achieved: But even then Lord Elgin might have adhered to his original intention of proceeding to the north as soon as the season permitted and the troops arrived, had not the conduct of afiairs at Canton produced complications of so anomalous and intricate a nature that, upon his arrival at Hong Kong in September, he found himself compelled to abandon his idea of a northern expedition, and to devote to the capture and oocapation of Canton Uie force which he had designed for Pekin. He ktill clung to the hope, however, that a portion of it might yet prove available for this purpose, and the object of his visit to Calcutta was so far gained that he succeeded in obtaining a valu-able re-enforcement of native regiments. He farther believed that form of government might be established at Canton which would iSKdhtate the task of its military occupation, and enable the gener* al to spue some of his troops for service in the north. In this expectation he was not disappointed: by the Sampson, which brought up the engineers, he received an intimation from Oeneral Straubenzee that, if more troops were required, they could be spared; and on the 4th of June, on the very day of the first in-tenriew with the commissioners above described, the Fury left the Gulf of Pechelee for the purpose of bringing to the scene of nego-tiations the 59th regiment There can be little doubt that the timely arrival of this regiment removed from the imperial mind the last shadow of doubt as to the necessity of concluding the treaty. In a word, then, the policy of the allied plenipotentiaries, as 80 far developed, bad in effect placed the emperor in their grasp, and the dynasty itself at their mercy, without in any way eodangering the European communities at the ports, or even dis-tartuig their trade. It was, indeed, matter for congratulation that thej had at last succeeded in placing themselves in this favorable attitude with a force so limited and hampered, and under such ad-verse influences generally. It may be readily imagined that the five weeks we passed at Tientsin formed a most cheerful contrast to the same period spent in the Gulf of Fechelee. There we had more than once utterly despaired of ultimate success ; now we felt that, though disappointed in our hopes of reaching Pekin, the doubts and anxieties we had experienced would probably be nxm than compensated for by a diplomatic triumph.

238 ^^HE CHANCES OF A POLITICAL CABEEB.

CHAPTER 17.

CHAPTER XVn.

The Chances of a Chinese political Career. — Arriyal of Keying. — ^Interncw with him. — ^Adyerae Policy of Keying. — ^His Hostility to the Commissioners— Pnofi of his Insincerity. — Second Interview of Messrs. Wade and Lay. — ^Keying^ Ms-moriaL — ^Keying*s Treatment of Barbarians.— A disagreeable Ezposl— Oodm-qnences of his Offense. — ^Lenient Sentence. — ^The Emperor's Decree.— KejriDg'f Suicide.

A FEW days after the incidents xecounted in the last chapter, an episode occurred singularly illustrative of the vicissitudes of Chinese official life, and of the dangers to which those are exposed in the Celestial Empire who are either '^ bom to greatness or have greatness thrust upon them." The account which has been al* ready given of the fortunes of Tan exhibits, in a striking manner, the dilemma in which the imperial government places its liigli functionaries when it forces them under the severest penalties to accept positions fSrom which it is morally impossible for tbem to escape without incurring fEuilure. There can be little doubt that the imperial government often appoints a man to an oflBce with the express intention that he should serve as a scapegcttt^ and be sacrificed to its own folly or incompetency. The syston of unscrupulously immolating innocent subordinates to saeai guilty superiors extends through the whole Chinese official life; and so well recognized is this principle among them, that, in the numerous misunderstandings our authorities have had with the Chinese, the latter have invariably sought to lay the blame on one of our own inferior officers, with a view of enabling the superior to retreat with honor from a false position, should he desire to do so. If, however, the British official maintains his ground, as is commonly the case, the Chinese gets out of the scrape by a simi-lar process.

When a high official position is attended with these inconven* iences, it will readily be understood that intrigue among imperial officers often takes a precisely opposite direction to that wUch it conmionly assumes in Europe, and that, so far £rom attempting the ruin of your greatest enemy by opposing his advancement^ there are circumstances under which a Chinese politician can most surely gratify his revenge by procuring his nomination to an im-

ABBIVAL OV KETIN6. 289

portant and hazaidotis service, the refusal of whicli would entail the aame extreme penalty which will be the reaolt of his inevi-table fiulure. Not only in the Chinese world of ftct, but in their Tealma of fiction, is this practice used to point the mond and adorn the tale; and in many of their romances theinterest of the plot is made to torn upon some crisis in which the virtuous hero is made the victim of a &tal promotion.

It is impossible for us to do more than speculate upon the se-cret motives which may have induced the imperial government to nominate Keying, in an independent capacity, to assist in the set-tlement of the barbarian business. That this appointment was more properly due to the able intrigues of his enemies than the ill-advised elforts of his friends may be inferred from the fact that the high oflloers who first moved the emperor to raise him firom disgrace and employ him at Tientsin, were the first to denounce him as worthy of death in consequence of his conduct there ; though it must be remembered that, in China, the only chance which the man who recommends an incompetent emplayi has of mving his own head is to be the first to denounce his nominee should he prove a failure.

Be that as it may, Lord Elgin was not a little surprised to re-ceive an intimation from the old friend of Sir Henry Fottinger, whose name is most familiar to English ears as the n^otiator of the last treaty, and who contrived, during the short period of his interooune with Europeans, to create in their minds so high an estimate of his intelligence and good fiedth, announcing his arrival, but not stating that he held any official rank, while he at the same time requested an interview with the embassador.

Lord Elgin at first felt somewhat disposed to overlook this in-, fennality in fiivor of a man whose presence at the scene of nego-tiatioBa might appear to indicate the existence of a strong desire on the part of the emperor to terminate existing difficulties ami-cably. The reputation which Keying had earned in his manage-ment of barbarian business had been founded on his tenciliatoiy treatment of them ; stiU, we were in possession of documents in-▼mlidattng his sincerity, and we knew that his conciliatory policy had led to his disgrace. Messrs. Wade and Lay were therefore sent in to express Lord Elgin's regret at not being able to accord faim an interview, and, at the same time, to observe the tendency manifested in hjs tone and sentiments.

240 INTERVIEW WITH KEYING.

They found an old, decrepit mandarin, half blind, and, to jadge from his countenance, sinking into his dotage. He at &csX de-clared that he recognized Mr. Lay, and that gentleman had some dii&culty in persuading him that he had mistaken him for his &ther. Then he burst into tears at the deplorable position of tbe Celestial Empire generally, and of himself in particular, stating that he was involved in a difficulty which must end in disaster to himself. Mr. Wade suspected that this was a mere theatrical effect. Mr. Lay giving him credit for sincerity, to test it, Mr. Wade assured him that he might be relieved £rom his situation, as he had no doubt Lord Elgin would write a letter peremptorily declining intercourse with him, which would be his justification to the imperial court This, however, did not suit the crafty Key-ing, in whose senile brain some cunning still remained, and be complained that we were placing a knife to the throat of China and a j)istol to its head ; and# gradually let it appear what his opinion was on this subject to an extent which convinced our en-voys that his sentiments were distinctly hostile, so that he was re-quested in writing, the same evening, to postpone his visit for a few days. Notwithstanding this, however, on the day following (the 10th), Keying had the perseverance to appear at the gate of the yamun, and sent in his card, but was, of course, not admitted. I regretted not arriving in time to see more than ike back of his chair as he was being carried away. As an historical personage^ and one whose tragical end has since invested him with a deeper interest. Keying was a man worthy of having been noticed.

It may readily be supposed that the commissioners Kweiliang and Hwashana did not regard this interloper with any &voiable eye. The only definite office he seemed to fill at first was that of spy, while the imperial commission which he managed subee-quently to obtain only qualified him more folly to put in prac-tice the resolution he at once manifested of thwarting the senior commissioners in every thing they proposed. We were inform-ed, on tolerably good Chinese authority, that he totally dissented from the pacific policy by which they were actuated, and held the most pugnacious language with reference to the barbarians. To this he might have been impelled by two motives. In the first place, his independent appointment almost neoessarily im-plied that he was expected to entertain indepeinlent views. Ad the views of his colleagues were ''peace at any price," he fdt

HIS HOSTILnT TO THE C01IHI88IONEBS. 241

bound to be warlike ; and he the more readily adopted this tone, as he had himself, in his former dealings with us, adopted the " peace at any price'' policy, and had remained in disgrace ever since. His second motive was, in fact, consequent upon this ; he regarded the present as the only opportunity which was ever likely to be afforded him of retrieving his position, by becoming the vigorous advocate of a policy directly antagonistic to that which had already been his ruin : could he only show that Kwei* liaog and Hwashana were pursuing a course as weak and tempor-iang as that which, in the opinion of the imperial government^ hid characterized his own diplomacy, he might still hope to clothe the nakedness of his present disgrace with the miserable renmants of the robes of honor he had torn from the backs of his colleagues.

The commissioners finding him in this vein, and perceiving that their most earnest efforts to bring about a satisfactory adjust-ment of the existing difficulties were likely to be frustrated by the detennination to thwart a conciliatory policy manifested by Key* ing; earnestly requested his removal The emperor, however, as he himself states in his subsequent decree on the subject, knowing that he (Keying) must be aware of this, and lest he should feel embamssed by the knowledge, again sent him orders to remain at Tientsin* But Keying, instead of taking this hint to pursue the independent policy which had been originally indicated to hiiDi suddenly took the unexpected and indefensible course of de-serting his post, thereby much delighting his enemies, and draw-ing upon himself the serious displeasure of his imperial master. In order, however, to comprehend the real motive which induced him to adopt this unusual and fatal line of conduct, it is necessary to explain the nature of the interference on our part, to which we were compelled to have recourse.

It no sooner became evident to the embassador that Keying was endeavoring to exert an influence which, if successful, would neotalize the good dispositions of the senior commissioners, and imperil the final and satislactory issue of the n^otiations already comnnenoed, than he determined to remove fix>m the scene one whose presence was calculated to prove a serious embarrassmenti the more especially as he had been furnished with unmistakable eridenee that the obstructive tendencies of Keying had not been ez^geimted. Fortonalely, among the papers discovered in Yeh's jman was a memorial written by this very mandarin to the em*

Q

242 SECOND INTERVIEW OF MESSRS. WADE AND LAY.

peror upon the subject of barbarian affidrs ; and the tone in which that document was conceived furnished Lord Elgin with an in-strument which, if properly used, would secure his removal firom the present commission. It was considered that the most effective and certain way of accomplishing this desirable result would be for Messrs. Wade and Lay unexpectedly to produce in his pres-ence his own miemorial, and read it aloud for the benefit of him-self and his colleagues. Accordingly, upon the 11th, or the daj following the visit of Keying to the yamun, these gentlemen wait-ed upon the commissioners. Their first object was to present a letter complaining of the unsatisfactory reply which the commis-sioners had returned to a confidential communication made to them by the embassador upon the subject of the propositioDS which were to form the base of the negotiations.

Upon entering the commissioners' room, Messrs. Wade and Laj found Keying present, apparently associated with them in the ca- . padty of colleague. They adverted to the communication already received by Lord Elgin as differing altogether in tone and spirit from the document he had been led to expect, and as being one altogether impossible to be received by him as the base for future negotiations, l^e commissioners insinuated, as broadly as it was possible for them to do, in presence of Keying, that this gentle-man was responsible for the letter in question, and for the tone in which it was couched. Messrs. Wade and Lay remarked that, while Lord Elgin did not conceive himself entitled to dictate to the emperor on the subject of the appointments he might be pleased to make to the imperial commission, it was clear that good fidth on the part of the individuals likely to be engaged in the pending negotiations was a qualification of the first importance. It was evidently not in the interest of either party that a person discred-ited in this particular should be associated in the commission. It would be for the commissioners to make their own application of this principle with reference to the document which they now begged to produce, the authorship of which it was not necessaxy to particularize, as it was attached to the paper.

The circumstance of its having been found in Yeh's yamun at Canton among his private archives imparted an additional inter-est, doubtless, in the eyes of the commissioners, to this singular and interesting production of Keying. The following document was then handed to the senior commissionerB, and read aloud bj

K£TIN0*8 MEMOBIAL. 243

Hwashana in a subdued tone, Keying being present^ but keeping well in the background, conscious that the levelations it contained would put his command of countenance to the test should he seem to pay attention to its contents:

'* The Supplementary Afemorial^ detailing Hie pectdvariHes of the Be* ceptims of the barbarian Envoys of different natimis^ and the AtUo-graph (lit, VermUion) approval of his Majesty the Emperor ^

[The date of this Memorial was about the end of I860.]

{IVanslation)

" The slave Keying, upon his knees, presents a supplementary memorial to the throne. The particulars of his administration of the business of the barbarian states, and management* of barbari-an euToys, according to circumstances, in his receptionsf of them, have formed the subject of different memorials of your slave.

**The supplementary conditions of trade having been also ne-gotiated by him, he has had the honor to submit the articles con-taining those to the sacred glance of your majesty, who has com-missioned the Board of Revenue to examine and report upon them. All which is upon record. He calls to mind, however, that it was in the seventh moon of the twenty-second year (Au-gust, 1842) that the English barbarians were pacified. The Ameri-cans and French have successively followed in the summer and autumn of this year (1845). In this period of three years barbari-an matters have been affected by many conditions of change, and in proportion as these have been various in character has it be^ oome necessary to shift ground, and to adopt alterations in the means by which they were to be conciliated and held within range.^ They must be dealt with justly, of course, and their feel-ings thus appealed to ; but, to keep them in hand, stratagem (or diplomacy) is requisite.

^ In some instances a direction must be given them, but with-out explanation of the reason why ; in some, their restlessness can only be neutralized by demonstrations which disarm (/tV., dissolve) their sospicions ; in some, they have to be pleased, and moved to grasitade by concession of intercourse on a footing of equality ;

• Lii^ ridinf ftsd reining. t Reoeplkms of them as inferion in nmk.

• CooeiUated — iU., fwcifled, as a penon or an animal that if wild, and comforted. Kc^ witbiB range— /i/., tethered.

244 EETING'S MEMOBIAXi.

and in some, before a result can be brought about^ their fedsity has to be blinked, nor must an estimate (of their fiEicts) be pressed too fer.

" Bred and bom in the foreign regions beyond (its boundary), there is much in the administration of the Celestial dynasty that is not perfectly comprehensible to the barbarians, and they aie continually putting forced constructions on things, of which it is difficult to explain to them the real nature. Thus the promulga-tion of the imperial decree QiL, silken sounds) devolves on the members of the great council, but the barbarians respect them as being the autograph reply of your majesty; and were they given to xmderstand positively that (the decrees) are not in the hand-writing of your majesty at all, (so far firom respecting them), there would, on the contrary, be nothing in which their confidence would be secure.

'^ The meal which the barbarians eat together they call to-ten (dinner).* It is a practice they delight in to assemble a number of people at a great entertainment, at which they eat and drink to-gether. When your slave has conferred honor upon (has given a dinner to) the barbarians at the Bogue or Macao, their cfaiefi and leaders have come together to the number of from ten to twenty or thirty ; and when, in process of time, your slave has chanced to go to barbarian residencesf or barbarian shipe^ they have, in their turn, seated themselves round in attendance upon him, striving who should be foremost in offering him meat and drink. To gain their good-will, he could not do otherwise than share their cup and spoon.

'* Another point : It is the wont of the barbarians to make much of their women. Whenever their visitor is a person of distino-tion, the wife is sure to come out and receive him. In the caae of the American barbarian Parker, and the French barbarian La-gr4n6, for instance, both of these have brought their foreign wives with them; and when your slave has gone to the barbarian res-idences on business, their foreign women have suddenly appeared and saluted him. Your slave was confounded^ and ill at eaae,

* The word vied by our Canton Beiranti for dinner : the greet meaL

t The word /Son, loft or stoij, is not that applied to the dweUing-hooaes of du-

neae. The mandarinn nae it specially when speaking to their own people at ooot

hooses. t Confounded, ahnoet awfr4trickeiL as Coofiicins is described to have been in

presence of his ruler.

KSTING'S MEMOBIAL. 246

while they, on the contrary, were greatly delighted at the honor done theig. The truth is, as this shows, that it is not possible to regulate the customs of the Western states by the ceremonial of Cluna; sod to break out in rebuke, while it would do nothing to-waxd their enlightenment {liLj to deaye their dullness), might chance to giye rise to suspicion and ill-feeling.

'* Again, ever since amicable relations with them commenced, the different barbarians have been received on something of a too6ng of equality. One such interview is no longer a novelty ; it becomes more than ever a duty to keep them off and to shut them oat To this end, on eveiy occasion that a treaty has been negotiated with a barbarian state, your slave has directed Hwang Aw-tung, Commissioner of Finance, to desire its envoy to take notice that a high of&cer in China, administering foreign affairs, is never at liberty to give or receive any thing on his private ac-count. That, as to presents, he would be obliged peremptorily to dedine them ; were they to be accepted, and the &ct concealed, the ordinances of the Celestial dynasty on the subject are very stringent; and, to say nothing of the injury he would inflict on the digni^ of his office, it would be hard (for the offender) to es-cqie the penalty of the law. The barbarian envoys have had the to attend to this ; but in their interviews with him they have offered your slave foreign wines, perfumery, and other like mattexB, of very small value. Their intention being more or km good, he could not well have rejected them altogether, and to ihdr fiaoe ; but he has confined himself to bestowing on them snuff-bottles, purses, and such things as are carried on the person, there-by potting in evidence the Chinese principle of giving much, al-thoogh but little has been received.* Again, on the application of tlie Italians, English, Americans, and French, your slave has preaeBted them with a copy of his insignificant portrait

^ To oome to their govemmentf Though eveiy state has one, there are rulers, male or female, holding office permanently for the time being. With the English barbarians, for instance, the mler ia a female, and with the French and Americans, a male. The English and French ruler reigns for life ; the American is elected by his countrymen, and is changed once in four years, and

• TluH, aceordini; to the ieoond of tlw Conftidaa boob, thoold it be betwwa the ralrr «»d the nobles dependent on him. t £if^ ilMir eoftreisn tenion.

- • !• ^vittr;^*.

246 K£YIN6*S MEMORIAL.

when he retires from his throne he takes rank with the people (the non-official classes).

'^ Their official designations are also different in the case of each nation. To represent these, they for the most part appropriate {lit, filch) Chinese characters, boastfully affecting a style to which they have no claim, and assuming the airs of a great power. That they should conceive that they thereby do honor to their rulers is no concern of ours ; while, if the forms observed toward the de-pendencies (of China) were to be prescribed as the rule in their case, they would certainly not consent, as they neither accept the Chinese computation"^ of time, nor receive your majesty's patent (of royalty), to Ml back to the rank of Cochin-China or Lewchew. And with people so uncivilized as they are, blindly unintelligent in styles and modes of address, a tenacity in forms of official cor-respondence, such as would duly place the superior above and the inferior below, would be the cause of a fierce altercation {ULj a rising of the tongue and a blistering of the lips) : the only cooise, in that case, would be to affect to be deaf to it(^ii^., tobe as though the earlap stopped the ear) ; personal intercourse would then be-come impossible ; and not only this, but an incompatibility of re-lations would immediately follow, of any thing but advantage certainly to the essential question of conciUation.t TnRt^wl, there-fore, of a contest about unsubstantial names, which can produce no tangible result, (it has been held) better to disregard these minor details, in order to the success of an important policy.

" Such are the expedients and modifications which, after dose attention to the barbarian affairs, a calculation of the exigencies of the period, and a careful estimate of the merits of the question, as being trivial or of importance, admitting of delay or demand-ing dispatch, it has been found unavoidable to adopt Your slave has not ventured to intrude them one by one upon the sacred intelligence, partly because they were of themselves of small sig-nificance, partly because there was no time:( (so to report them). The barbarian business being now on the whole {liL, in the rough) concluded, as in duty bound, he states them detailedly, one and

* Zt'r., the first and last moons of the year, as oompntod by China, who isRiea her calendar to Corea, if not to her other dependencies. The sovereigns of Corea, Lew-chew, and Coohin-China are invested hj a Chinese envoy, and receive a patent from their emperor as their snierain.

t As in note {, p. 243. t He had to act at onee.

KETINO'8 TBEATMSMT OF BABBABIAN&L 247

all, in thifl sopplementaiy diq>atcl^ whidi he respec^^ to yoor maj^ty."

" Reply in the Vermilion PenciL

** It was the only proper .arrftagement to have made. We on-doBtand the whole question*"

While Hwashana was reading this prodactioni his attention was more paiticularlj directed to those passages which discuss so elab-orately the various descriptions of " stratagem" which Keying was in the habit of resorting to in order ''to keep the barbarians in

So long as this controller of barbarians was associated with the commission, it was evident that it would be incumbent upon us to watch narrowly which mode of treatment he was applying ; whether " a direction was being given to us without explanation of the reason why ;" or whether '' our restlessness was being neu-tralized by demonstrations which disarmed our suspicions;" or whether this was one of those occasions in which we were " to be pleased and moved to gratitude by concession of intercourse on a fiwting of equality ;" or whether the crisis was so eminent that oar ''falsity was to be blinded, and the estimate of our facts not pleased too fiur." Whatever be the mode of treatment, he does not for a moment leave us in doubt as to its object " Once such an intercourse (on a footing of equality) is established, it becomes more than ever a duty to keep them off and to shut them out" Nor was his chuckle upon our gullibility with reference to the imperial autograph lost upon us.

Hwashana and Kweiliang looked somewhat abashed when they had concluded this dissertation upon the " blindly unintelligent" race of barbarians with whom they were at that moment negotia-ting, and Keying requested to be idlowed to see the paper, for the quiet perusal of which he retired into a comer. Meantime our en-T0J8 informed the imperial commissionerB that the bestway of es-tablishing confidence in Lord Elgin's mind with reference to their good fiuth was to send in at once the letter containing the propo-sitioos originally agreed upon as the base of negotiations. They &rther stated their intention of waiting in the yamun until it was sign<^ and sealed, which they accordingly did, and it was not until 10 P.M. that they finally took leave, with the precious document.

248 CONSEQUENCES OF KETIN6*S OFFENSE.

signed by Kweiliang, Hwashana, and Keying, in their possession* It was doubtless in allusion to this communication that Kejing states, in the memorial to the emperor containing his defense, that when, after consultation with Kweiliang and Hwashana, it was agreed that a dispatch should be written, '' they wept together beneath the window ; they knew not in the morning that they should not die by night"

Two days after this it was that, finding himself discredited by us before his colleagues, to whom he was personally obnoxious^ and who would gladly avail themselves of the weapon we had placed in their hands, and perceiving that it was impossible to pur-sue the obstructive and independent policy he was expected to adopt. Keying determined suddenly to return to Pekin, prefSacing the step with a memorial to the emperor, stating only that he had ^^propositions of importance to submit." Before he reached the capital, however, he received an order to return to his post In-stead of obeying this command, he, to use the words of the em-peror, "could not take himself out of the way &st enough," This was the head and front of Keying's offense. Thus conscienoe made a coward of him. Had the emperor read Shakspeare, he probably would not have asked, in passing sentence on him, "Had Keying any conscience, would the sweat have flowed down his , back or not?" But so it happened that instead of bearing the ills he had, tl^e unhappy mandarin fled to others that he knew not of.

Bumors were shortly after rife at Tientsin, first of the d^rada-tion, and then of the death of Keying; but the first authentic inti-mation we received of the severity of the punishment which was awarded him was from the following extract from the Pekin Oa-zette^ which reached us on the Sd of July, or about three days prior to our leaving Tientsin.

Not previously aware of the circumstances under which he had been appointed to meet us, or supplied with every link in the chain of events detailed in the foregoing pages, we were much shocked at the tragical end of one who had so recently been among us, and whose conduct, though weak and vacillating, scarcely seemed to deserve death by suicide ; nor, indeed, in so fer as we are acquainted with the whole of his offending, does there seem any proportion between the guilt and the punishment. How little could we imagine that the objection taken to Keying

THE E1IPER0B*S DECBEB. 249

as an imperial commissioner should even indirectly have been the cauae of that &tal decree, the last sentence of which contains so painful a satire upon justice and mercy ; for certain officers, hay-ing desifed Keying to read the decree, are commanded to inform him ''that it is our will that he put an end to himself, that our extreme desire to be at once just and gracious be made manifest." In a country where the highest attributes of divinity find such a manifestation, it is no very violent presumption to suppose that the (ate of Keying was determined upon when he was first order-ed to proceed to Tientsin, and that, whatever his conduct there might have been, it would always have furnished the excuse de* sired by his enemies of causing his public execution, a sentence which the emperor hypocritically modified by that parody upon leniency contained in the last clause, which commutes the public execQtioQ to private suicide.

^^ Autograph Decree.

" On receipt of a memorial by the Prince of Hwui* and others, praying that Keying's offense should be followed by instant pun-ishment as under martial law, we commanded that he should be faroQght to the capital and subjected to rigorous examination. When put on his trial, he tendered his statement in defense, and we then directed the Prince of Kungf and others to decide and award with equity. They now find that, in not awaiting our commands, Keying acted with stupidity and precipitancy, and they sentenced him to be strangled after imprisonment until the Imperial Assize,^ when his crime is to be entered among those not to be foigiven. Their award, certainly, is none other than a oorrect one. Still, as the terms in which they describe his trans-gresBion by no means define the criminality of his heart, § it is in-combent on us to give full publicity [to the &cis].

• llicn Ta, brodier of the lato Emperor Mien King, the style of whose reign was TtfoKwa^

♦ T% 8^ bcocher of the reigning emperor, who was assoeiated with Tih Trang, aoothpr bmher, and the adopted son of the emperor's nnde, in the triaL

J A Iks ofcriminal cases is submitted once a year to the emperor. The prisoners whoae aama are without a certain mark made upon it by the emperor escape with lifc ; tboae within the mark die. The term here rendered Imperial Assise is ap-|fie4 to diis rehearing of cases tried in the capital ; cases heard in the prorinces are fvYlaed at the Autumnal Assize.

f Zir., mn certainly not a description of it that cuU the heart open : a classical elsewhere paraphrased as the oflfense of •• deceiring the soTereign, and to

250 ^^^ EMPEBOB'S DECREE.

^' When Keying, being at the time an officer in disgrace, was again lifted np to be employed, it was our hope that he would ex-ert himself to make a reputation in his declining years, and would competently perform the service needed in the matter [then befoie I ns]. When he had his audience to take leave, his words were, ' 'The powers of your slave are scarcely equal to his charge, but he will see what his fortune is;' language that betokened neither numbness of conscience* nor failing intelligence. On the 27th of the 4th moon (8th June), a letter &om the coundlf followed bim to Tientsin, by which he was instructed that he need not associate himself with Kweiliang and his colleague, nor be bound by foims in any way,:|: to the end that he might follow up any step of theis by the measures his own policy might require. It can not be said that the position we gave him was other than independent^ or that our gracious support of him was short of considerable. When Kweiliang and his colleague moved us to recall him, we assumed that he must be aware of this. Still, lest he might be somewhat§ — ^a letter was sent &om the council instructing him to remain at Tientsin, and take counsel for himself Had Keying had any conscience, would the sweat have flowed down his back or not ?|| That officer, however, having dispatched^ a memorial to us, takes on himself to return to the capital, his plea being that he has propositions of importance to submit to us. If so, why did he not address us a confidential memorial in his single name? He adds that there is matter that can not well appear in writing. Then why, when he [subsequently] received the decree to the ef-fect that it was our pleasure he should stay at Tientsin, did he

caoBing damage to the state's interest;" treason, in short. One Chinese under-stands it, " their finding does not show him gnilty of the treason he has committed.*

* Lit,, dimness.

t These letters are what we call imperial decrees. They an drawn up under in-stmction of the emperor, and transmitted through the council to those whom they concern.

X Lit,, not to grasp the mud, stand on ceremony. Properly, as junior, he woold hare subscribed to the proposals of the senior commissionerB, but he was antfiorised, ''as exponent of hb own policy, to take the second step,*' the other commi»0Qets having taken the first.

§ There is an omission here of two characters, if not more.

I This is a classical expression, the parentage of which obliges it to indicate, nol as we should have supposed, great exertion, but the sense of shame experienced vben our little merits receive bounteous consideration.

f Xt'r., having adored, prostrated himself before the memorial about to bo senU

THE EBiPEBOB'8 DECBER 261

horriedlj prepare another memorial 7 And what is there, after all, of moment, either in his memorials or in his defense ? In all the irrelevancy which time after time he has obtruded upon us, his sole calculation is [the safety of] his own head. The total ab-sence of available suggestions in the memorials and defense of this officer, again, might be held, had he not been deep in the se-cret, to be over-harshly visited by the law. But it is known that the measure he names had been long since considered by us with oor servants. Besides, what might have come from another with propriety could not with propriety come from Keying. Why so 7 Beoiuse he was art and part of* the administration [of this ques-tion], and was free to carry out any views of his own. How was it, then, that, unprovided with measures suppeditative or remedial while acting with others, he was only ready with the right sug-gestion after the event 7

'* Had we but punished this officer as he humbly prayed we would, we had indeed fidlen into [the snare of] his machinations. For [in that prayer] Keying has plainly declared himself. Not only [does he imply that] his former offense had been complete-ly washed away, but he seeks to lay blame on others ; an inten-tion yet more to his disgraccf He had fimded that, for unau-thonzedly relinquishing his commission, rliamingftl firom the serv-ice would be all the penalty awarded him, and, this end attained, he would have enjoyed hhnself at home. With the obligation laid upon him by long recognition of his little merit {liL, dullness, se^ his employment in spite of it), should such a conception have been tolerable to him? Nor is this all, when his thoughts are anniveled4 When, after consultation with Kweiliang and Hwa-sluuuu it was agreed that a dispatch§ should be written, ' they wept together beneath the window ;| they knew not in the mom-

* IM.f in the s^une, hi the plot, on the committee. He flief from Tientsin on the that he has an hnportanl foisSMtion to make which he daro not write ; jet he aad hk foi^gettion proTet of no Talne; nor is it a noTel one, aa he weU knew. TUi MOeMkm, tay aU Chinese expoaitora consnlred, waa war, which it most be in-tenwd he waa at liberty to resort to.

^ Lii^ atin less can hia heart be inquired of. Man ihoold be ao that, ^ when he iaqnifca of his heart, be finds notliing to be ashamed of.** X Lii^ [wbcn we foUow] the track, or footprints of his heart f Dispatch or commnnication, probably one addressed to Lord Elgin two dayi b^ fa* Kcyiag disappeared from Tientsin. I A euaunon phrase applied to men consulting or studying together. It does not rbctber the emperor lenmed this fitim Keying*s dispatches or elsewhere.

252 '^^^^ £BCPEBOB*S DECREE.

ing that they should not die bj night' But we do not learn that, in devout obedience to our will as earlier expressed, he then de* vised any worthier expedient of his own.* By-and-by he ob-served to Hwashana that he feared his departure from Tientan might disturb the population, and he would therefore pretend that he was moving thence for a while on business. But though, on arriving at Tung-chau, he received the later letter of the coun-cil [desiring him to return], we do not learn that he hastened back [to his post ; on the contrary], he could not take himself out of the way fSast enough. He treated our commands as a thing of course to be dispensed with-f Full of intrigue, bent on deceit, could a hundred voices excuse him from immediate annihila-tion? J

"The [sentence proposed in the] original memorial of the Prince of Hwui and his colleagues was, nevertheless, too severe; neither was the memorial of [the Censor] Suhshun, again, propos-ing his immediate execution, as it should be. Our object in hand-ing him over to our servants in the capital§ for trial was to have the circumstances of so grave an offense duly weighed by them, and a sentence deliberately pronounced, for the edification of all. If we were still to have approved his summary execution, what need was there for bringing him to the capital ? What need, to go fiffther, for [the formality of] a finding and sentence ? Then the remark [in one memorial], that 'if left for some months he might die a natural death, and so escape with his head,' is even more out of order.| Such words belong to sentences passed on malefactors {lit., robbers). They could not^ without serious im-propriety, be applied to Keying.

" We have bestowed great attention [upon his case] for several days, seeking to spare his Ufe; but, indeed, it is impossible; and were we to reserve him, as Yih Su and his colleagues^" propose, for the Great Assize, then certainly to suffer, we feel that [when the time came] we could not endure to leave him in the market*

* Lit^ Beparatelj or distinctly, that is, from his coUeagnes.

t LU^ as a cap-hair ; the tuft of hair formerly thrown away when the c^ of manhood was assumed ; a thing to be rejected, and rejected of coarse.

t An expression that would include his family in the act of destruction.

§ That is to say, by the chief members of the administration.

II Lit., then the remark — is a finding [in cases between which and the present there is] even less analogy. It could not wtotonly, or at random, be applied to Keying. CoUoquiaUy, it would nerer do, etc. f Tih Su, see note f, p. 249.

KETINQ'S SUICIDE. 253

place.* In this dilemma, haying given all our thought to a due appreciation of the &ctB and a just apportionment of the law, we command Jinshau, senior isung-ching^ and Mien Hiun, senior isung-jin^ of the imperial Clan Gourt^f with Linkwei, President of the Board of Punishments, to go at once to the Empty House of the Claa Court, and, having desired Keying to read [this] our auto-graph decree, to inform him that it is our will that he put an end to himself^ that our extreme desire to be at once just and gracious be made manifest Bespect this I"

We were informed, upon good authority, before leaving Tien-tsin, that the punishment here awarded had been actually carried oat, Keying having drunk a cup of poison in the presence of the imperial officers nominated to enforce it Thus perished by his own hand this celebrated mandarin, whose signature, attached to the Treaty of Nankin exactly fifteen years before, had secured for him a political notoriety in Europe greater than had ever previ-ously been accorded to a Chinaman, and the tragical termination of whose career must ever invest his name with a yet more sig-nificant and touching interest

* Like a common criminal.

t TW tmrn^-jm-fm^ or imperial Claa Conrt, it aa office cbaiged ipeeiall/ with te RCiMmkB, paynenf, and jaritdiction of the imperial familj in aU iu branehee. The tmjjltj House mentioned jnst below is the prison of this establishment.

254 INSOLENCE OF THE HOB.

CHAPTER 18.

CHAPTER XVm.

«

Insolence of the Mob.— A forcible Entiy into Tientnn.— Making Reprisals.— Hostile Crowds. — Peacefnl Proclamations. — Plan of the City of Tientsin. — Agpeci of the City. — ^The Traffic in the Streets. — Declining Trade of Tientsin. — Notice oonoem-ing the Grain Supply. — Present State of the Grand Canal. — Official Expenditure of Grain. — Collection of the Grain-tribate. — Static of the Yellow River.—Obstntc-tions in its Navigation. — Grain Transport by Sea. — ^Report on the Grand CanaL— Price of Rice at Tientsin. — ^Table showing Proceeds of Grain-tax. — ^Trade of Tien-tsin.— Squalor of the Inhabitants. — ^Burial-places. — ^Total Allied Force at Tientstn. — ^Exploration of the surrounding Country. — The Harvest at Tientsin.— Kitcfacfi-gardens. — Salt-pans. — ^Vetch-fields. — ^Locust-hunting.

Our suspicions of the hostile character of Keying's interference^ alluded to in the last chapter, had received a somewhat singular confirmation in the altered demeanor manifested by the inhabit-ants within two or three days after his arrival. Up to that time nothing could exceed the respectful bearing of all classes with whom we had come in contact in the course of our rides and walks through the city and suburbs. Upon the very day, how-ever, of the visit of Messrs. Wade and Lay to the commissioneis' yamun, just described, the admiral, accompanied by two or three naval officers, was pelted and hooted at by the populace while walking in one of the suburbs. This was a course of proceeding on their part altogether tmezpected ; and our astonishment was increased on the following afternoon by the sudden appearance in our yamun of Captains Dew and Saumarez in a state of some ex* citement, the former hatless, and grasping a large stick, the batte^ ed condition of which gave evidence of some recent violent ren-counter. It appeared that, while walking quietly inside the city, near one of the gates, they were pelted and hooted, and ultimately attacked by the mob, who, however, entertained too great a respect for barbarian prowess to press them very close, and they escaped with only the loss of a favorite dog of Captain Dew's, and the hat of that gallant officer. Immediately on the receipt of this news a mess^e was sent to Major Boyle, commanding the marines, who were barracked only a hundred yards distant As it was already late in the day, and no time was to be lost, that officer at onoe pat himself at the head of a strong party of marines, and, accompanied by half a dozen blue-jackets of the Furious, and some of us as am-

A FOBCIBLB ENTBT INTO TIENTSIN. £56

iteora, proceeded, under the guidance of Captain Dew, toward that part of the city where the outrage was said to have occurred.

Ajb, however, we had upward of half a mile of suburb to trav-erse before reaching the nearest city-gate, timely notice of our ap-proach was received by the gate-keepers fix>m scouts who ran on to warn them ; and, in spite of our utmost endeavors to reach the gate before it was shut, we found, upon our arrival before it, that it was firmly barricaded against us, and, on looking through the chinks in the massive paneling, could discern a largo crowd col-lected in the deep arohway which passed under the wall at this point, some fifteen or twenty yards in breadth. We insisted upon a Chinaman ordering them to open the gate, who obeyed our com-mands in this wise : " Look out I" he cried ; " here are a whole k>t of barbarians wanting to come in t They have pressed me ; I have nothing to do with it Open the gate I open the gate I open the gate I" The first part of the sentence, intended only for his Chinese audience, was overheard by Mr. Lay ; the latter part^ in-tended for us, was shouted with the utmost vehemence.

Seeing that the people were determined not to admit us, and that it was hopeless to attempt to force the gate, I accompanied Captains Osbom and Dew in search of an available part of the wall for scaling. Some low houses wero built against a crumbling angle at a likely place, and, scrambling on to the overhanging eaves, we were soon digging our fingers and toes into the crevices formed by the disintegration of the unbumt brick of which the wan was composed. In a moment more we were joined by three or four blue-jackets with muskets, and, running along the wall, jumped down into the street, and astonished the unsuspecting crowd in the archway as we took them in rear with a loud yelL They doubtless supposed that the whole British army was at our backs, for they tumbled about in all directions in their haste to escape, assisted by the application of a little judicious pressure upon sundry parts of their persons as they scampered away. Dew, seizing a hatchet from one of them, instantly cut through the bar of the gate, and in another moment the whole of the marines walk-ed quietly in, the city having thus been stormed and taken in five minutes, without any moro serious wound having been given or received than that which may be inflicted with the toe of a boot

Wc marohed tranquilly up the main street, then down to the SoQth Gate, which Dew at first supposed to be the one at which he

256 1CAKIN6 BEPBISALa

had been insulted. Finding out our mistake, however, we march-ed along the whole length of one face of the city, a distance of about a mile, upon the top of the wall, to the West Gate — a most striking procession to the admiring crowds, who were collected in astonishment to watch us make such free use of their mural de-fenses, considered the most sacred part of a Chinese city. Imme-diately on arriving at the West Gate Captain Dew's hat was pre-sented to him, and we informed the mob that, in consequence of the impropriety of their behavior in that particular locality, it would be necessary to make prisoners of six respectable house-holders, as it was impossible to recognize the individual offendeis. Thus the better dass would come to see the necessity of treating foreigners civilly. So we laid hands on the captain of the Tartar Guard at the gate, and a few apparently well-to-do shopkeepen, and marched them solemnly off between two files of marines, Mr. Lay pointing the moral of the proceeding by making the Chinese, as we passed, say, ''It is very wrong to insult an Englishman; I will never insult an Englishman." Any man who showed any reluctance to repeat this formula was at once brought forward, and compelled, in a distinct and grave voice, to give utterance to a variety of sentiments expressive of his regard and consideration for the English. The prisoners were only kept in confinement one night) and on the following morning were released, well satis-fied with the treatment they had received, and fuU of promises to use their utmost influence to prevent a recurrence of a similar in-cident Captain Dew's dog, a handsome retriever, swam off to the Cormorant) on board which ship his master was staying^ daring the night

We were assured in different quarters that the behavior of the people was due to the instructions they had received firom their mandarins, and that these instructions had only been issued sub-sequently to Keying's arrival. We had the greater reason to be-, lieve this assertion, as, in consequence of the representations made to the commissioners, no farther annoyance of the sort was expe-rienced except upon the day following, and probably before any instructions upon the matter had been widely circulated, when Cameron and I were walking alone in a distant suburb, and were pelted by some of the younger part of the population, and sor^ rounded by a hostile-looking crowd, who commenced hooting. Upon our turning round and facing them, with an appealing look

FEACEFCL FBOCLAMATIONa 257

to tibe most ieq)ectable individuals in the crowd, these latter re-stnuned the more ardent spirits ; and as we walked away, we ootdd hear the Toioes of the advocates for and against insult in high al-tercation. After this, we could walk and ride to considerable dis-tances with perfect impunity, though ever since our first arrival we had deemed it unwise to go about unarmed.

The appearance, a few days after this, of 120 marines and two guns fiom the fleets who were marched with all possible military di^bty to their quarters, did much to give effect to our remon* toBoes, and increaaed the civUity of the people. Our force, uu-til the arrival of this body and the engineers, had been very small, m consequence of most of the blue-jackets having been sent back to the fleet immediately upon our becoming installed in our quar-tets at Tientsin. Now, however, proclamations were posted up all over the city and suburbs, stating that foreigners were always to be attended by (Chinese) soldiers to preserve them from insult^ and that persons insulting them would be severely punished. A news-room was discovered in the city, where plaouds containing the latest barbarian intelligence were posted up. Among other pieces of news, the public were informed that we had been in-duoed to parade the town a few days previously in consequence of the suspiciousness of the day. We had certainly proved, upon thai ooeasbn, that, with even the comparatively small force now at cor disposal, we might consider any day au^icious to take and oceaf^ a dty, the defenses of which were so feeble, and the garri-son so weak and timorous.

The authorities were, moreover, extremely desirous of showing their sincerity by inflicting summary punishment upon any China-mioi against whom complaints were made. One cheerful-looking man naed to appear daily at the gate of the yamun, and seat him-self there with a cangue, or piece of board about three feet square, kicked round his neck. The Chinese put their criminals' heads, instead of their I^s, into the stocks, and the culprit is compelled to wtMT this cumbersome necklace for a given number of weeks, or aotnetimes months. Upon one occasion a man was brought xnio tlie yamun for smuggling samshu to the marines, and the petty ofllcial charged with ministering to our comforts, to show his seal, instantly commenced slapping him violently with the open hand upcm the back, as though impelled by an amiable de-sire to aflsist him in coughing up a fish-bone.

R

258 DESCRIPTION OF TIENTSIN.

The city of Tientsin occupies the angle formed by the junction of the Grand Canal and River Peiho. It is built as nearly as pos-sible in the form of a square, each face being, according to a rough estimate, a mile in length. Four massive gateways give entrance to the four roads which approach from the cardinal points of the compass. These roads, on entering the town, become the princi-pal streets, and intersect it at right angles. At the point of inter-section, in the centre of the town, is a pagoda-shaped building, sup-ported upon four archways, which span the streets. From this point all four gates are visible. These streets differ entirely from those of a southern town. In the latter, two sedan-chairs meeting scarcely find room to scrape past each other; while at Tientsin wheeled vehicles traverse the streets, which are in places paved with large flag-stones, the foot-passengers being provided with a troUoir,

Nor was Tientsin superior to southern towns in the breadth of its streets alone. The visitor could pursue his exploratory in-vestigations without having his nostrils assailed at every turn by the indescribably foul odors of the south ; for, although the city and suburbs were by no means free from stenches, they existed but in a modified form. There was nothing, however, to tempt one to frequent its uninviting purlieus. The few shops that in-terested foreigners were in the suburbs ; the shops and houses in the city containing the commonest articles of Chinese necessitj, and the exterior was as mean as their interior was ill supplied They were generally built of imbumt brick, sometimes of mad, often consisting of two very low stories, the ground floor open to the street.

Some fantastically-carved wooden arches, which spanned one of the streets, were the only ornaments of which the town could boast. The temples were poor in an architectural point of view, and the divinities they contained more than ordinarily shabby : the best was in the suburb. Two or three yamims indicated the residences of the civic dignitaries. There was an absence of that life and bustle in the streets which usually characterize a Chinese town : this may have been partially owing to the panic created by our presence. Indeed, people were actually leaving the town, and many of the shops were shut from this cause ; and in the sub-urbs this proof of their uncertainty with regard to our intentions was more general. They evidently did not vnsh to tempt onr

DECLININQ TRADE OF TIENTSIN. 269

cupidity bj the display of their wealth. Whether this wealth existed or not remained a matter of speculation. Most certainly the general impression created upon our minds was that^ for a town which, with its suburbs, is said to contain half a million of iuhabitants, Tientsin was the most squalid, impoverished-looking place we had ever been in.

The principal traffic in the streets seemed to be that of fuel and water. The fuel consisted of millet or wheat straw, carried on mens shoulders; the water was conveyed in the quaintly-con-5tnicted wheel-barrows already described : occasionally might be seen a man sitting upon one side of the wheel, to balance the two bucketB of water poised upon the other. The water-way to the edge of the river was paved with flag-stones, cut down through the steep bank, the cutting being bridged over for the convenience of people passing along the river brink. As seen from the water, the groups of water-carriers, with their barrows and variously-ftbapod buckets, emerging from these subterranean avenues, or #r>Ilected at their mouth, presented one of the few picturesque «ights which greeted the eye of the traveler, if he had not become eoo mudi disgusted with the monotony around him to appreciate any thing.

Such was the internal aspect of the city of Tientsin. Its de-fenses consisted of the rickety walls above mentioned, which had crumbled away so much in places that it remained a mere shell. It was said that upon tlus wall were mounted eighty guns, being twenty to each face ; but, even if that number was not exagger-ated, they existed more in name than in reality. Instead of being moanted on carriages, they were, for the most part, imbedded in Voftkets of sand, and so corroded and decayed that the gunners would be in infinitely greater danger than the enemy. The gates .ire all surmounted by buildings which serve as barracks, of two «tari«ft, with pagoda roofs.

Upon the first occasion of our visiting the city, two or three 'iajs after our arrival at Tientsin, some slight reluctance to admit L« wad exhibited by the gate-keepers; but after our forcible en-try, oar visits were regarded as a matter of course.

I was informed by an old merchant of Tientsin, and his state-zncnt was corroborated by the present aspect of the place, that it had been decaying both in opulence and population since the 'jrerflowing of the Yellow River had broken down the banks of

2^ PRESENT STATE OF THE GRAND CANAL.

the Grand Canal, and the exigencies of the lebellion had swallow-ed up the funds which would otherwise have been devoted to the repairs of that great work. Produce of various descriptions, ar-riving from ahnost every province in China, formerly foimd its way by tributary canals into the main artery ; much of the wealth of the empire thus flowed past Tientsin, which now reaches the capital by other channels of internal communication, or has ceased altogether. But the principal use of the Grand Canal was for the transport of the annual grain-supply. According to Sir Geoige Staunton, a thousand grain-junks were passed by Lord MacaI^ ney's mission between Tientsin and Toongchow. It will be seen fix>m the following interesting notice, compiled by Mr. Wade from various authentic Chinese sources, what, according to the most re-cent accounts, is the present state of the imperial canal, and under what conditions the grain-transport has been carried on in conse-quence :

'* It is nowseveral months since rumors reached us of the terror produced in the districts adjoining the lower part of the Yellow Biver by its disappearance from its ancient bed.* It seems be-yond doubt established that, firom a point which must be aboat as high up as Kai-fung Fu, this violent stream has forced a new, or, according to Chinese historians, has resumed an old channel, in a northeasterly direction, and now makes its way into the Gulf of Pechelee by superadding its waters to those of the Ta-tsdng and other rivers of Shan-tung. Much of the intermediate country is described by a recent traveler as more lake than land, and the great artery of ^orl^em China, the Grand Canal, clogged in s(nne places and expanded out of all symmetry in others, lies useless for any of the greater purposes of trade or supply for which it was originally intended. From the statement of the crew of a Tang-chau jurik, which had forced her way up to Tientsin early in 1857, the bed of the Yellow River had been filled with water from the canal reservoir by Hwai-ngan Fu to the depth of three feet, to enable vessels to cross. The junk in question drew but two feet She found in many places up the canal but four inches water, and the greatest depth at any point did not exceed four feet We have since learned that the bed of the Yellow River, if tempora-rily filled, as stated, at the point in question, is now, at all eventa^ perfectiy dry.

* See Ncrth Chun EaraH Nos. 880, 8d of January, 1857; 869, IStli of Jme, 1857; 407, 15th of May, 1858; 411, 12th of Jnne, 1858.

COLLBCnOK OF THE GBAIN TRIBUTE. 261

'^ It 18 difficult to say from what depths of exigency the indns* try of OxiBA may not recover itself; but it is almost beyond a doubt that, for the present^ the operation of one of her greatest works is in abeyance, and the noith of her empire is consequently beholden for its commerce, and to a large extent for its subsistence, to the coast trade, which it has been the policy of the government, as regards the most important article of Chinese life, to restrict in iavor of its inland traffic. The wants of Northern China naturally attract our attention at a moment when the ports of that region have been opened to a certain extent to our commerce, and the fioUowing particulars of what we were wont to describe as the Grain Tribute of China, and of the past and present methods of its tiansmiasion, may not be uninteresting.

** The code of the Board of Revenue of 1831, the latest edition, we believe, in print, showed that, exclusive of 18,840 tons for which a constant commutation tax, amounting to 246,570 tads, was levied at various rates in five of the contributing provinces, the wh<de Grain Tribute annually forwarded in kind used to be collected in the following proportions :

Btee 210,000 tou.

WlUtt riee for the court ate 44,000 *'

WbMt. t 4,000 «

PulM. 17,000 "

"The wheat and pulse were grown in Chih-li itself^ in Shan-HiBg and in Honan ; the black pulse in Manchuria. The wheat is staled to be the only sort destined for human consumption, but this is by no means certain.

*^ The subjoined table, drawn up firom the same authority, de-clares the proportions in which, under ordinary circumstances, the producing districts would contribute. The wretched state of the canal communications and the rebellion, which, besides interruptr ing boch the collection and transmission of the grain-supply, has for many years absorbed the funds otherwise applicable to the repain of the canal and river, are causes which materially afiect the original conditions of this branch of revenue. We will speak of it first as it wa&

The official expenditure of grain in 1811 was some 118,000 tons, iwithout reckoning the court's own demand; and, according to ilie Bevenue Statistics of 1881, already quoted, there should al-w»jB haive been in store at Pekin 854,000 tons of rice, and at

262 COMMUNICATION FROM FEKIN.

Tung-chau, twelve miles ofl^ 82,000 tons. None of this shoiild be allowed to be unsold or unexpended longer than three yeaza.

'' The shipment of the grain was effected at forty-four mqor and nineteen minor stations in the eight provinces of

Chih^Ii. Kiang-sn. Eiang-si. HmuuL

Shaii4img. Ngan-hwui. Cheh-kiang. Ha-peb.

'' These, with all details of the establishment charged with its carriage and escort, are under a superintendent, with the title of governor general, whose head-quarters are at Hwai-ngan Fo. He has under him a force on a quasi-military footing, the total strength of which is about 64,000 men. The grain-junks used to leave the points of collection in fleets, departing at different periods, so as to avoid confusion, each vessel bearing 800 piculs on govemmeiit account The escort, known as kiting^ carried a certain amoant on private account, and were indeed rewarded for bringing in fiom 180 to 200 piculs in excess of the government cargo. Each jimk was allowed a sum for her expenses ranging in amount from 160 to 200 taels.

" The collection of the grain tribute was supposed to commeDce on the 1st of the 10th moon, say in November, and all grain, no matter where collected, to be weighed and shipped for the canal two months later. The junks firom the dis^cts north of the Yang-tsz', in the neighborhood of the canal, by law should cross the Yellow Biver at Hwai-ngan Fu in the 12th moon, Januaiy or February; those from other parts of E[iang-su and Ngan-hwni^a month later ; and those firom Ejang-si, Cheh-kiang, Hu-peh, and Hunan, a month later than the last Aftec they are across, the law still allows them three months to ascend the canal to Tientsin, there to tranship their cargoes for Tiuig-chau, whence the chief part of them would be carried in carts to Pekin.

'^ The line of canal communication between the Yang-tsz' and the Yellow Biver has but two approaches officially recognized as available for the transmission of the Grain Tribute ; one, the Kwa-chau mouth of the canal, opposite Chin-kiang Fu ; the other at I-ching, a few miles higher up the stream. Punctoality has not been more remarkable in this than in any other branch of Chinese revenue, but the grand derangement of all calculations respecting the transmission of grain has ever been the capricious di^)Osition of the Yellow Biver. The 20ih term of the Chinese

STATE OF THE YELLOW UVER. 268

year, known as the " fixMt's descent)" has always been watched with anxiety, and freedom from inundation daring this period en-titled the spirit of the stream to a special sacrifice in token of the emperor's gratitude. A glance at the map will show that from the points of its intersection bj the Yellow River the canal takes a northwesterly direction, running for a considerable distance near-ly parallel to the course of its turbulent neighbor. As it quits the border of Eiang-su it becomes principally beholden for its sappl J to various sheets of water, part lake, part reservoir, which, imlefls we misunderstand the Pekin OazeUtf are of a construction precarioQsIy primitive. Vast earthworks are thrown up, and into the space thej inclose water is worked from the adjacent streams, to the very great peril, as the Chzette admits, of the mud enceinte^ which would be utterly destroyed were the body within it all wa-ter. To mitigate this danger, and at the same time to preserve the water-level necessary to the supply of the canal, the vast tanks are three fourths filled with mud.

'* In 1851 a more than usually violent outbreak of the Yellow River swept away all the works of earth and masonry in the sec-tioD of river-works known as the Fung-peh, in the north comer of Eiang-so. In August, 1852, the upwiurd-bound grain-fleet was obliged to land its cargo in Shan-tung, some eighty miles below TU-ning, to a point in which department all the grain had to be, cvried by land for reshipment to Pekin. The emperor was short-ly moved by various memorialists to consider some new means of supplying the capital with grain, the canal, it was urged, having become impracticable by mismanagement

^Eariy in 185S a censor recommends the transport of grain by •ea. He puts the total consumption of the capital at four million picnls of superior, and two and a half million piculs of inferior descriptions of grain — say 480,000 tons. The provinces hereto-fare relied upon were all disturbed by rebels; but in Fuh-kien sad Cbeh-kiang, which were quiet, a sale of rank might be open-ed, sod grain bought by the local government with the proceeds. The Formosa market was also spoken od By the end of the year $83 jonks of grain from the south had reached the Oulf of Peche-

*^ In the spring of 1854 the capital was in sore distress. The rebels were on the borders of Tientsin, and Cheh-kiang was the ooly one of the supplying provinces not in disorder : even there

264 GRAIN TRANSPORT BY SEA.

floods had done damage. The emperor was accordingly piajed to give a general invitation to merchants to import grain from all parte. The river communication between Pekin and Tienbm had also been injured by inundation. Still, by the dose of the year the grain-receipte at Tung-chau amounted to 1,424^946 piculs, nearly 100,000 tons. This is described as grain of 1863. It is classed under eight different denominations, and its carriage up £rom Tientsin, it is observable, employed 8892 river-junks firom the 7th of June to the 8d of August.

"A decree of January, 1865, shows that the rendezvous of the junks bringing grain from Kiang-su or Cheh-kiang was the port of Liu-ho, a small customs station on the Yang-tsz', at no great distance from Shanghai. The emperor is in great want of lioe^ and lays an embargo right and left on flat*bottomed vessels along the whole coast, from the Gulf of liau-tung down to Ningpa Cheh-kiang furnished no less than 60,000 tons this year ; but tiiis appears all that Pekin received.

" In May, 1866, the governor of Cheh-kiang, in a somewhat self-complacent memorial, reporte the shipment of about 60,000 tons in 721 junks, divided into six fleets. ' It is now four years,' he says, ' since the sea-transport was commenced on the recom-mendation of his predecessor, and the subsidy is increasing an-nually.' By the 6th of July, 1200 junks had discharged 100,000 tons at Tientsin and returned south. Some 6000 tons were siiaijl due. The insurrection being now to all appearance about to limit itself to the southern provinces, the canal was surveyed in the hope of again making it navigable for the grain-fleet The re-port is long, and, firom the use of certain technicalities, somewhat difficult of translation. The &ct, however, is established that, ow-ing to a series of inundations firom 1861 to 1856, the artificial channels had sustained almost irreparable damage. The Weishan Hu, a principal reservoir, which should have in it fourteen feet of water, had but from two to eight feet ; in many places mud banks stood out like islands, and along ite whole western veige was a dry tract of varying width. A proposition to introduce more wa-ter and more deposit was rejected, as calculated to jeopardize the fi*ail inclosure of the Hu. The year closes with disastrous notioesL In Pekin rice was from nine to ten dollars a picul; the crop short in Kiang-su and Cheh-kiang, which were also suffering fiom lo-custs. There were locusts in Chih-li as well.

PRICE OF BICE AT TQCMTSIN. 266

^ In 1857 the authorities of the Two Ewangs are called on to find rioe for the court Some of the Eiang-su quota is detained for war supplies. That the abandonment of the canal transport is in contemplation, may be inferred from a proposal made by the Board of Be venue to dispose of the junks formerly employed upon the canal, many of which we know to be rotting at Hang-chau and elsewhere. The board also remarks, by the way, that an equivalent to their former tax in grain is now levied in coin on Hu-peh, Ilunan, Eiang-si, and Ngan-hwui ; another indication of the court's acceptance of the sea-transport as something more than a temporary measure. The authorities of Manchuria reported the shipment in June of some SOOO tons of grain, which they describe as rice. It was probably wheat

" Supposing Uie censor's estimate, tendered in 1853, to be ap-proximately correct, it follows that, in the last six years, the sup-ply of the best grain has only twice equaled a third, and did not last year amount to a tenth of the Pekin demand. The supply of this year remains to be ascertained ; but when the mission were at Tientnn, rioe was selling at from five to six dollars a picul, and the resources of the province were threatened by locusts, which coDtinned to arrive by myriads. These were sold dried as food at fiirty cash a catty. They did not seem in such request, never-theleas, as to cause future speculators in ' grain-stufb' any serious

>i;i)i-3r;^|T,»

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TABLE SHOWmO PBOCEEDS OP GRAST-TAX.

Ill

sj OS 5i i« r-

tW.

= :=:= I--. |=r=

m

TRADE OF TDSMTSIN. 267

The high price of rice at Tientsin was doubtless due to our oc-cupation of the river and the presence of our ships in the Oul£ It had always been one of Lord Elgin's principal objects, in hur-rying north at an early period of the year, to reach the mouth of the Peiho in time to intercept the fleet of grain-junks. That we should have been successful in carrying out this design, had not other circumstances intervened to prevent it, may be gathered from the fact that upward of nine hundred grain-junks were cal-culated actually to have passed within sight of the Furious on their way into the river, not counting those which sought the Dorthem entrance in order to avoid our fleet Thus, though Tientsin had lost in some respects in commercial importance, it was still, in a political point of view, the most favorable position for exerting a tremendous moral pressure on the capital. Every day was affording additional evidence of this, and the result proved it conclusively.

To return, however, to the statistics of Tientsin, it was extreme* ly difficult to obtain any information on the subject The only respectable Chinese merchant whon^ I had an opportunity of cross-examining on the matter was either very loth to impart his knowledge, or had no knowledge to impart The theme upon which he dwelt most feelingly was the excessive poverty of the dty of his abode. It exported absolutely nothing, he averred Its only productions were salt, from the pans near it and the sea, and grain of various descriptions, but not more than sufficed for home consumption. Among its imports from the south are dried fruits, sugar, glass-ware, camlets, woolens, opium, etc., in small quantities. Numerous cargoes of beans and bean-cakes are brought over from Neu-chwang and the Manchurian coast There cu& be little doubt that we shall find a considerable market in the north of China for our cotton and woolen manufiictures. I ob-served in the bazar some Manchester calicoes, also English or Ger-man glass-ware, cutlery, lucifer matches, etc.

In contemplating the population of Tientsin with a practical-ly commerciid eye, the problem is not whether they want clothes, but whether they have money enough to buy them. Appear-ances certainly folly bore out the Chinese merchant's assertion as to the poverty of the town. In no part of the world have I ever witnessed a more squalid, diseased population than that which seemed rather to infest than inhabit the suburbs of the city.

268 8QUAL0B OF THE INHABITANTS.

Filth, nakedness, and itch were the prevailing charactenstiGSL The banks of the river swarmed with men who lived entirely on the garbage and offid that were flung from the ships, or weie swept up by the tide from the city. There was an eddy just in front of our yamun in which dead cats, etc«, used to gyrate, and into which stark naked figures were constantly plimging in search of some delicate morsel. Their clothing generally consisted of a piece of mat or tattered sacking, which they wore, not round their waistj but thrown negligently over their shoulders — ^it was diffi-cult to divine for what purpose, as decency was ignored, and in the month of June warmth was not a desideratum. Cutaneooa diseases of the most loathsome character met the eye in the couise of the shortest walk, and objects so frightful that their vitality seemed a mockeiy of existence shocked the coarsest seneibili-ties.

Upon several occasions I saw life ebbing from some wretched sufferer as he lay at his post of mendicancy. One old woman, in particular, attracted my attention. She used to lie motionless oa a mat in the centre of the road, a diseased skeleton. She had jost strength enough to clutch at cash that was flung at her. One day this strength seemed to have failed : I looked closer, and she was dead. A few hours after, I repassed ; but her place knew her no more : she had been carried away and cast upon a dung-heap. I was riding on the outskirts of the city one day, and saw a man carrying another on his back. At first I thought the burden was a corpse ; but, as I approached nearer, a certain flexibility of the legs, as they trailed in the dust behind, undeceived me. This was one of the city scavengers who prowl the streets for dying beg-gars, and when they find one in whom life is almost extinct, they bear him off to some suburban Aceldama, and fling him from their shoulders, a premature feast for crows and vultures. Certainly, if the imagination of the Chinaman who named this city Tientsin, " heavenly spot," could form no higher idea of an abode of bliss, it is difflcult to conceive what must have been his notion of the opposite extreme.

Ab if in ironical allusion to the misery which the living seemed to endure, almost the only pretty spots near Tientsin were the burial-places. They were nearly the only localities honored with trees, and consisted generally of a square with an area of about a quarter of an acre, inclosed by a mud bank and ditch, so as to

KZPLORATION OF THE SUBBOUKDINO COUNTBY. 269

present exactly the appearance of a small earthwork or iabia. Each member of a family who reposes within this inclosure is placed beneath a conical mound of earth, about the size and shape of a beU*tent A thick grove of trees, generally willow and cy-press, surrounds the cemetery, and gives a cool and refreshing as* pact to the place. One of these burial-places was of so great an extent, and contained so many graves, that in our ignorance we avoided it for some days, feeling certain it was an intrenched camp, as we had heard of the existence of one in the neighbor-hood. The absence of the usual trees confirmed the suspicion, until we mustered up courage to visit it one day, and found only a decrepit custodian, rapidly going to join those whose remains be was now guarding. The real camp we discovered a few days after from the summit of a species of martello tower, to the top of which we climbed for purposes of inspection.

It is not to be supposed, however, that the entire population of l^entsin and its neighborhood are invalids or beggars. There was a large class of respectable bourgeoisie; and the country peo-ple, though poor, looked cheerful and industrious as they worked in large gangs in the fields. The fair sex was almost invisible. It was by the rarest accident that a glimpse was caught of a wom-an not belonging to the lowest class. Even these latter all cramp-ed their feet — a practice not so general among the same class in the south* Some of the little girls we saw were pretty ; and, with their heads dccomted with bright flowers, and their gaudy skirts fluttering in the wind, they looked piquant and graceful Bat, as a rule, the women generally seen were hideous.

Ere very long we had explored the environs of Tientsin in ev-ery direction. Our yamun was situated on a peninsula, formed by a deep bend of the river, which doubled back so as fdmost to convert it into an island. Upon one side of us the mud houses of the suburb were built against the yamun wall, but to the left and rear were gardens, scattered houses, and waste land. The engineers occupied a temple within muske^8hot, and next door to them, *' Caserne Fran9aise," painted in lai^ge white letters, indi-ealed the quarters of the '* Marine Fran^aise." Just previous to our departure there was an allied force of nearly six hundred men qoartefed in different buildings upon this little peninsula, which was capable of being rendered defensible, if necessary, by an earthwork thrown across the narrow isthmus, so that we were

270 THE HARVEST AT TtSHTSIH.

fortunate both lo respect to the aocommodatioD and locale of our positioD.

Passing the isthmus, and riding parallel to the 0rand Canal, Tre soon reach a bridge of boats, by which the Fekin road crosses to the city ; turning sharp to the right, we follow this road, so inter-esting to us while we thought it possible we might have to trav-erse it. It soon emerges from the suburb, and crossing two ca-nals, tributary to the Peiho, by substantial bridges, one of whidi is ornamented with a handsome balustrade of carred marble, reaches the "Wenho, or salt river, a little above its junction with the Peiho. It is conveyed across this important stream by a bridge of boats, and, traversing the peninsula formed by the two, follows the right bank of the Peiho for as many miles as oar ex-plorations extended.

The farthest point I reached on horseback was the large village of Petsang, about seven miles from Tientsin by the road, and lately become interesting as the point at whidi Mr. Ward and his suite struck the Peiho on their way to the capital, from which, ac-cording to report, it was not above forty-five miles distant in a straight line. The country through which we passed presented all the appearance of being subject to annual inundations; deep ditches intersected it in various directions for the purpose of cai^ rying off the water ; and the Pekin road was raised fifteen or twen^ feet above its level, the small country roads which crossed it being all bridged over. The high road was paved in places, and about twenty feet in breadth The villages, which dotted the landscape in every direction, were also built upon raised mounds, which completed their resemblance to the mud towns of Egypt

During the firstportionofour stay at Tientsin, the flat country extending between the Grand Can^ and the Peiho was one vast field of ripening wheat as far as eye could reach ; and, uninter-rupted by fence or inclosnre, the yellow com rose and fell to the breeze in gently rolling waves; while, dotted over its suriace, the masts and sails of numerous jnnks were visible, looking as though they traversed a golden sea. These were navigating the minor </naals. Only once, on an unusually clear day, could I distinguish in the dim distance the irregular outline of some fer-oflF hills. Winding through this fertile plain, the courses of the Grand Ca-nal and the Peiho were marked by the groves of bees vhich

KirCHEN-GABDENa 271

adorn their banks, and surround ancestral graves. Some of the villages also rejoiced in clumps of trees, but generally they look-ed like brown patches stuck upon a green ground.

Ere we left Tientsin the aspect of the country was entirely changed, for the harvest was over. Most of the com was cut with the sickle, but I observed that grain of certain descriptions was plucked out by the roots ; then it was collected into thrash-iBg*gro^uids, to be tramped out by oxen, and winnowed upon breezy days, when carts, concealed by mountains of straw, and drawn by mixed teams of horses, mules, and oxen, creaked heav-ily over the soft land, and gleaners scattered themselves fiir and wide through the fields, and the whole population was out in the bright sunshine, looking cheerful and happy as they gathered in the blessed fruits of their labor and toil. In the mellow hour of evening, when the whole western sky was a blaze of red, and the scene was bathed in the glowing reflection of its fiery tints, it was pleasant to ride among the reapers of Tientsin, and foiget, in the pictme of content and plenty before us, the objects we had just witoeased of misery and starvation.

Although the country around Tientsin was a dead level, it was not destitute of variety. If the Pekin road led through nothing but a com -field, that which followed the banks of the Grand Canal in a southerly direction conducted you for miles between kilchen-gardens so exquisitely tended that, in this respect, at all events, the environs of Tientsin are a pattern to those of London, of the neatest and most tasteful construction inclosed little of ground, irrigated by a net-work of minute canals, divided into beds, devoid of weed or pebble. Greens of every description, gouds, egg-plants, leeks and onions, sweet potatoes, beans and peas, were planted out and manured, or trained, as the case might be, with the utmost care. Interspersed with the kitchen-gardens were vineyards, orchards, and fruit-gardens, containing apricotB, apples, and pears of a coarse description, and vines trained on tndliaeB, as m the north of Italy. This was one of the pleasantest rides, as it was for the most pui; shaded by trees, and the wind-ings K^ the canal, with the river-life upon it, added to its pictur-esqae interest It was an immense relief, in all our rural ram-bles, not to be stifled at every turn with the filthy contrivances of the south. In this respect the horticulture and agriculture of the north are carried on under much pleasanter conditions. Our ex-

272 SALT-PANS.

plorations in a westerly direction were uninteresting ; the cotmtiy was an immense grave-yard — ^not a collection of private oeme-teries, such as I have described upon the banks of ^e Peiho and Grand Canal, but a plain crowded with conical tumuli, destitate of grass or trees, and extensive enough to have contained the whole defunct population of Tientsin since the original founding of that "heavenly spot."

There is only one more direction in which I wiU ask the reader to accompany me, if he be not already as tired of the environs of Tientsin as we were. A very considerable suburbi connected with the city by a bridge of boats, was situated upon the opposite side of the Peiho. Passing through it, we debouch upon a aingu* lar piece of landscape.

. Here were salt-pans, with the salt stacked in large tumuli like gigantic graves. Interspersed with them were small tumuli, which really were graves ; and there were deep pits, and ponds of water with narrow ridges between them, and more salt stacked in hags^ and roofed in with millet straw ; and huge stacks of wheat straw collected for purposes of fuel ; and mud huts, like Irish cabins of the meanest description, inclosed by fences of millet straw, which is thick and strong enough for the purpose ; and there were brick* kilns which looked like circular forts, and a circular fort which looked like a brick-kiln. Altogether, it was the oddest collection of big mounds and little mounds, and heaps and stacks, and pits, and stagnant ponds, and hovels, and forte, and brick-kilns, and fences, and waste land I ever saw. A high road led through it, and into a close, populous village beyond, and out of that into the illimitable steppe. There was no waving com here : a weakly vetch and unhealthy-looking young plants of Indian com were stmgglipg to maintain a miserable ezistence in a soil so thin and friable that the united efforts of two men and a donkey, or two donkeys, were sufficient to drag a plow through it It seemed to be of quite another character from that on the right bank of the river. Beyond the vetch-fields the steppe produced nothing but a short dry grass, across which we could scamper in every direc-tion, with the chance of puttmg up a hare and riding after him across the country. It reminded me of some parts of the steppes of Southern Russia. Sometimes the monotony of this scene was unbroken by a living object ; sometimes a doud of dust would betoken the approach of country carts, and a succession of huge

LOCUST-HUKTING. 273

cieakiiig vehicles would roll past, loaded with fuel, and drawn by a mixed team* I have counted a horse, a pony, a mule, a donkey, and two oxen in one cart An ox and the horse served as wheel-ers ; in front of them were the other ox, the mule, and the pony, while the donkey led the way in solitary dignity.

Toward the end of the month of June, fortunately just after the crops were taken in, a swarm of locusts invaded the country. Yon could gallop through miles of them in this plain as they whizzed and fluttered among the horses' legs ; you could steam through acres of them as you traversed the river, and eat bushels of them filed, if so it pleaised you, as they were hawked about in bttketB by urchins in the streets. Locust-hunting was a fisivorite udA profitable occupation among the juvenile part of the commu-oitj. I had the curiosi^ to eat one, and thought it not unlike a periwinkle.

S

274 ADVANTAGES GAINED BY BUSSIA AND AMEBICA.

CHAPTER 19.

CHAPTER XIX.

Adyantages gained by Btusia and America. — ^A aerioos *' Hitch.** — Hie two ud> portant Demands, — The Bight of a Bendent Minister. — ^The Chinese Sjrstem of Government : Mode of inflaencing it. — ^Principle of direct CommonicatioiL — Tht Concession gained. — ^The final Procession. — Signing of the Treaty. — An eflectiTe niomination. — ^A Betrospect — ^The new Ports. — ^Ilie Transit-dues. — Climate of Tientsin. — ^Absence of Surveys. — Geography of the Coontiy.— Abnndance of loe. — ^A Skittle-alley. — Coriosity-hnnting.

Meantime the work of negotiation was progressing with die neutrals, whose task was less surrounded with difficulties than thtt of the quasi-belligerents, more rapidly than with ourselves.

On the 14th of June Count Poutiatine signed his treaty, in which the chief concessions gained were the right of correspond-ence upon an equal footing between the Russian* minister of For* eign Affairs and the prime minister or first minister of the Coun-cil of State at Pekin ; permission to send diplomatic agents to that city upon special occasions ; liberty of circulation throughout the empire of missionaries only, under a system of passports ; and the right to trade at ports at present open, and, in addition, at Swatow, at a port in Formosa, and another in Hainan,

Four days afterward the American treaty was signed by Mr. Reed, in which the same privilege of special missions to Pekin was accorded to the government of the United States, and the same additional ports opened to its trade.

These were by no means trifling concessions, and, eked out by 'Hhe most favored nation clause," were a great advance on the privileges formerly enjoyed by Russia and the United States in China. It would be a mistake, however, to suppose that thej were wiDingly granted by the Chinese government Much more moderate demands, when preferred the year before by the minis^ ters of Russia and the United States respectively, had been peremp-torily refused. Indeed, both Count Poutiatine and Mr. Reed, upon concluding these treaties, expressed, in the most frank and candid manner, the conviction they entertained that the concessions thej had gained had been due to the pressure exercised at this jan^ ture upon the imperial cabinet by the allied governments of France and England.

A SERIOUS " HITCH.*' 275

By the end of the week, after several pretty stormy discossioDs between the oommissioners and Mr. Bruce and Messrs. Wade and Lay, who were acting on behalf of Lord Elgin, a general agree-ment had been arrived at as to the terms of the British treaty. It had been resolved that the clauses should be drawn up forth-with in English and Chinese, and the evening of the 26th had been iked for the signature.

An incident, however, occurred on the evening of the 25th which threatened to lead to very serious embarrassments. Among the clauses in the British treaty which were not included in the other treaties, there were two which were most pertinaciously re-sisted by the Chinese commissioners. The one provided that the British minister in China should be entitled to reside permanent-ly at Pekin, or to visit it occasionally at the option of the British government ; and the other, that British subjects should have the right of traveling to all parts of the Empire of China for trading purposes Having fidled in their endeavors to induce Lord El-gin to recede from these demands, the commissioners had recourse to the Plenipotentiaries of the other powers then at Tientsin, and begged their intervention in conveying to Lord Elgin the import-ant piece of intelligence that on the previous day an imperial de-cree had been received from Pekin to the effect that not merely degradation, but decapitation would be inflicted upon Eweiliang and Hwaahana if they conceded these two points.

Whether or not any such decree had actually been received was problematical; but the appeal ad misericordiam was difficult to resist, more particularly as it was made just at the moment that the firat rumors of Keying's death reached us. As the French plenipotentiary had not included in his treaty the specific de-mands now objected to, it would have been unreasonable to sup-pose that he would consent to enforce them by hostile measures. The dreomstanoes of the case were obviously in the highest de-gree critica]. To give way was perhaps to imperil all that was most valoable in the proposed treaty ; for the commissioners, em-boldened by success, would in all probability have .proceeded to call in question other clauses, such as that for the settlement of the transit dues, which were peculiar to the English treaty, in the hope of indefinitely protracting negotiations. To persevere in the iioe of the representations which had been made was to run the risk of isolation, perhaps of a hostile advance on Pekin unaccom-

276 I'HB BIGHT OF A RESIDENT MINISTER.

panied by allies. Nevertheless, Lord Elgin, after full considera-tion, resolved to adhere to his original demands ; and upon the morning of the 26th he authorized Mr. Bruce to communicate his determination to the commissioners in peremptory terms, believ-ing that language of a decided character would be the best pro-tection to the commissioners against the imperial wrath, which, it was alleged, their acquiescence in his demands would provoke.

It is scarcely necessary to enlarge upon the motives wlii<di in-duced the embassador to exhibit so much persistence in so fiir 88 the second of these demands id concerned. The commercial ad-vantages which England must derive from the vast extension of her import and export trade consequent upon the '' eay^hitaiio^ of the interior of the empire by her merchants are too manifest to require elucidation. With reference to the other point, however — ^viz., the power of appointing a resident minister at Pekin-His opinions are divided in England as to the expediency of taking advantage of this privilege, the concession of which cost the im-perial government so sharp a pang, it is necessary to say a few words in explanation of the value which Lord Elgin attached to it

Any person who has attentively observed the working of the anomalous and altogether imique system under which the vast Empire of China is governed will have perceived that, though ruling under altogether different conditions, supported, not by a physical force, but by a moral prestige unrivaled in power and extent, the Emperor of China can say with no less truth than Ka* poleon, "L'Empire c'est mpi." Backed by no standing annj worth the name, depending for the stability of his authority nei-ther upon his military genius nor administrative capacity, he ex* ercises a rule more absolute than any European despot, and is en-abled to thrill with his touch the remotest provinces of the empire, deriving his ability to do so from that instinct of cohesion and love of order by which his subjects are supereminently cbaiac-terized.

But while it happens that the wonderful endurance of a China-man will enable him to bear an amount of inji^stice from his gov-ernment which would revolutionize a Western state, it is no les true that the limit may be passed when a popular movement en-sues, assuming at times an almost constitutional character. When any enievie of this description takes place, as directed against a lo-cal ofiGicial, the imperial government invariably espouses the pop-

THE CHINESE SYSTEM OF GOVEBNMENT. 277

ukr cause, and the individual, whose gailt is inferred fix>m the existenee of disturbance, is at onoe degraded. Thus a certain sympathy or tacit understanding seems to exist between the em-peror and his subjects as to how far each may push their prerog-ative ; and, so long as neither exceed these limits, to use their own expression, ^* the wheels of the chariot of imperial government re-volve smoothly on their axles." So it happens that disturbances of greater or less import are constantly occurring in various parts of the country. Sometimes they assume the most formidable di-mensions, and spread like a running fire over the empire ; but, if they are not founded on a real grievance, they are not supported by popular sympathy, and gradually die out, die smouldering em-bers kept ahve, perhaps, for some time, by the exertions of the more lawless part of the community.. But the last spark ulti-mately expires, and its blackened trace is in a few years utterly cflaoed.

The late rebellion is in this waning stage. Nor did the impe-rial government trust so much to its armies as to the inert mass of public opinion which had not yet decided in its &vor. So long as the capital is not threatened, and the lives of " the powers that are*^ there are not in absolute danger, they contemplate with comparative calmness the vicissitudes through which remote cities and provinces pass, contented to wait until the agitation shall have subsided, and then resume the old despotic sway as though nothing had happened. It affects their repose but slightly at the capital whether rebel or foreigner occupy some distant city. The patriotism of the loyal part of the population is evoked by impe-rial decree ; whether the people obediently respond, and are sue-ceasfhl, or whether they are unsuccessful, or whether they dis-obediently refuse, is a matter which seems but little to disturb the philosophers at Pekin. Either the imperial authority exists ab-scAutely, or it has been entirely extinguished. In the latter case, unprovided with adequate physical means to restore it, the em-peror is forced into a fittalistic view of the subject

A better illustration of the truth of the important principles above laid down could not bo afforded than in the case of Canton. The instructions furnished by the emperor to Yeh furnish unmis-takable evidence of the inefficacy of protracted diplomacy at a distance to influence the policy of the imperial government in its uealment of foreigners ; while, so far from the capture of Canton

278 THE PRINCIPLE OF DIRECT COMMUNICATION.

— ^which was the result of his acting in accordance with those in-structions— ^humbling the court of Pekin, as it was prophe»ed at Hong Kong would be the case, the hauteur and obstinacy of the imperial government were increased by this event The prime minister declined to communicate direct with Lord Elgin accord-ing to treaty, and refused to send commissioners to meet him at Shanghai. At a later period, when we were dallying in theGrulf| orders were sent down to Canton calling out the Braves, who im-mediately responded to them, and attacked the city. Shortly aft-er the signing of the treaty, counter-orders were dispatched dis-banding them, and commanding them to remain at peace with foreigners, and these were also ultimately obeyed. The popular impression among the British heretofore had been that the Can-ton question was purely local, and that authorities and Braves were alike acting independently of orders from Pekin.

But, if these incidents went to show how impossible it was to influence the court of Pekin by coercion applied at remote parts of the empire, still more hopeless was it to effect this object by diplomacy exercised at a distance from the seat of government Yeh's stubbornness and Keying's shuffling alike proved that a provincial governor, charged with the conduct of foreign affiurs, was approved of at court only so long as he could show that he was thwarting the barbarians, whether by obstinacy or craft. To bring conviction to the mind of a functionary so situated was of little avail, because it only made him an object of suspicion to his imperial master. Lord Elgin's observation had therefore led him to the conclusion that it was necessary to be* at the heart to affect the extremities, and that it was impossible to affect the heart thrpugh the extremities. Conceiving this to be the knot of the situation, he determined to establish the principle of direct com-munication between the British embassador and the imperial min-isters at the capital, and to secure, at all events, the right of the former to a permanent residence at Pekin. It would rest with the government whether to exercise the right or not^ attended as it doubtless was with many objections of a practical character, sach as difficulties of access, severity of climate, absence of aoconmioda-tion in the first instance, and almost absolute isolation. But^ what-ever point might ultimately be fixed upon for the residence of the minister, the &ct that he had a right to be at Pekin would be a source of influence in his hands scarcely less powerful than that

THS CONCESSION GAINED. 281

which he might acquire by his actual presence there, and the dread of his exercising that right operate as a check not less effectual than if it was already in existence. It would still be through the heart, although not absolutely at it, that the extremities would be affected. It will be seen from Lord Elgin's dispatch £rom Shang-hai of the 6th of November, which I have placed in the Append-ix, upon what grounds he was ultimately induced to recommend Don-residence at Pekin.

The decided tone held by Mr. Bruce having convinced the oommiflrionerB of the hopelessness of farther resistance upon these points, it was arranged that the treaty should be signed at the hoar originally named. As it was deemed best that as much tdai as possible should be given to so important an event, the whole strength of the military force accompanied Lord Elgin as a guard of honor, while the admiral and most of the officers of the squadron also attended, a number of them having arrived fiom U^ ships in the Gulf for the purpose of being present

The procession was one calculated to inspire the inhabitants of Tientsin with some respect — ^the military guard of 400 men, pre-ceded by the band ; the long array of chairs, and the body of spec-tators on foot, in full uniform, extending over a distance of nearly half a mile. The ships in the river were dressed out, and the crews manned the yards as the procession filed along the bank, which was lined with crowds of wondering Chinese.

In consequence of the heat of the weather, the hour fixed for the ceremony was somewhat late, and it was nearly dark before wc had traversed the winding streets of the suburb, and crossed the plain in which the " Temple of the Oceanic Influences" was Fitoated. We were received in the same hall which had been the scene of the former conference, but it was arranged in a more bosiness-like manner. Instead of the long table covered with re-freshments, three small square tables occupied the centre of the apartment At the middle one of these Lord Elgin took his seat flanked by a commissioner on either side. The admiral, together with aome of the naval officers and members of the mission, were seated at the other tables, and the remaining space was densely crowded with European and Chinese spectators. Three large paper lanterns lighted the business-tables, upon which the various copies of the treaty were soon spread out, and the process of sign-ing and sealing commenced, the interest of the ceremony being

282 , SIGNING OF THE TREATY.

sufficient to retaiii in silence the miscellaneous throng who were watching it

Thus expired, on its fifteenth birthday, the treaty negotiated by Sir Henry Pottinger in 1843 ; for, by a curious coincidence, the day of the signing of the Treaty of Tientsin was the anniveisary of the day upon which the Treaty of Nankin was ratified.

After the treaty was signed, tea and refreshments were handed round, though the commissioners had scarcely provided for thd reception of so many visitors. The Chinese attendants on the conmiissioners remained closely grouped round their chie&; while the exploratory propensities of British naval officers, and the reck-less enterprise with which th^e more juvenile portion of them at* t^ked every species of unwholesome dish that was placed in their way, rendered it desirable, for their own sakes, not to prolong the ceremony unnecessarily. It was nevertheless quite dark before the procession started on its return to the yamun. As we passed along the brink of the river, the crews of both French and En-glish ships sent up long and hearty cheers, and Admiral Bigaull's band welcomed us with the national anthem.

On the following evening, when Baron Gros signed his treaty, there was an improvement in the programme ; for, as the long procession of blue-coated and white-gaitered French marines were filing along the river's bank, the darkness was suddenly dispelled by the blaze of blue-lights, and the Chinese crowd found itself unexpectedly brought out in strong relief beneath their vivid glare ; and with ears deafened with the shouts of hundreds <A barbarian throats, and eyes dazzled by the unearthly brilliancy which illuminated the scene, they gazed in amazement on each other, and their own muddy river, and wondered, perhaps, wheth-er the treaties, the signing of which was being thus vividly im* pressed upon their memory, would work as great a tranafoiiDa-tion in the empire as the process of obtaining them had effected in their own city.

On entering our yamun Lord Elgin received the congratula-tions of Baron G-ros; and, indeed, it is scarcely possible to de-scribe the feelings of satisfaction we experienced on this most sll^ cessful termination to the doubts and anxieties of the past year. It wanted but a few days of the anniversary of our first arrival in the Celestial Empire ; and, although much doubtless remained to be done before we could hope to turn our fiu^es homeward, oar

A BETBOSFEGT. 283

foture labors would be of a far more pleasing character than those which had just been concluded. Up to this point we had met with a aeries of disappointments; now we were sanguine enough to hope that an era of success was about to commence.

We could bear tranquillj to review the history of the events of the past year. We could recall the effect produced by the firat staggering intelligence we received at Galle of the Indian fflQtinies, and the consequent diversion at Singapore of all our thoughts and energies from China to Bengal, and remember how oar three weeks' stay there was devoted to the annihilation of all our hopes and plans, while Lord Elgin was solely employed in divesting himself of all his means for carrying out the objects of his mission* We thought of the time when it seemed so hopeless that these were ever to be achieved — ^that we went to India in sheer despair — and learned for our consolation that, though the China foroe had saved Bengal, the China mission had lost all claim to public interest in presence of the appalling events occurring in this quarter ; we recollected with horror the dismal months wc spent in the harbor of Hong Kong, living on board a Peninsular sod Oriental Company's steamer during the hottest and stormiest season of the year, uncertain whether a foroe was ever coming to relieve us from our inaction.

There were other and more recent periods which afforded us Teiy little satis&ction to look back upon, and when our anxieties were felt the more keenly because it seemed likely that the prize vas to be snatched fix>m us when it was within our very grasp ; but we could afford to laugh now at these reminiscences, and the adverse influences which seemed to have beset our path from the coiximenoement only served to enhance the pleasure of success. IIoBtilitieB with the Empire of China had terminated with a loss to the British arms of about twenty men killed in action (since our fint arrival in the empire), and a treaty had been signed far more extensive in its scope, and more subversive of imperial preju-dices than that concluded fifteen years before, after a bloody and expensive war, which had been protracted over a period of two Team The reflection that we should probably be compelled to return to the- south without visiting Pekin would indeed force it-self painfully upon us ; but, for the moment, satisfaction prcdom-mated, and we endeavored to keep gloomy thoughts out of view.

Aa the result^ then, of the process applied to the imperial gov-

284 'I'HE TBANSIT-DUES.

eminent, we had obtained, first, the two points of a resident min-ister at Pekin, and permission to travel and trade in all parts of the empire already referred to. Next, besides Teng-chow in the province of Shantung, and the ports opened in the islands of Hainan and Formosa by the other treaties, we opened New* chwang in Manchoaria. The political importance of this latter port will be evident from a glance at the map, in which will be seen that it is the nearest sea-port to the Soongary Biver, a tnbn-tary to the Amoor, and navigable for steamers as &r as Petan^: it is also the port of Moukhden, the imperial capital of Manchoa-ria. In addition to these ports we opened Chin-kiang, and secoied the ports on the Eiver Yang-tse-Kiang between that point and Hankow, a celebrated mercantile emporium in the heart of the empire. A condition was attached to this concession, declaring that it was not to come into effect until the rebels were expelled from its shores.

Lastly — ^and this, perhaps, in a commercial point of view, was the most important clause of the treaty — ^the much- vexed ques-tion of transit-dues was finally set at rest A few words are nec-essary in explanation of this clause. Some misapprehension has prevailed in England as to the nature of these duties, and they were for some time regarded as applied only to foreign produce passing into the interior, and to native produce intended for ex-portation. It is, however, universally understood and admitted in China that the transit-dues are a tax in the form of an ocbvi levied upon all produce indiscriminately which passes into the in-terior provinces of the empire, or from one to another. Inasmuch, then, as it is one of the permanent sources of revenue to the Chi-nese government, to demand the total abolition of these dues would have been a harsh and unjustifiable measure ; nor was it likely that the imperial government would have consented to a domestic change involving such an enormous sacrifice of revenue. On the other hand, the Treaty of Nankin left the question in so unsatisfactory a state, that it has ever since proved a permanent source of complaint to the British merchant. That treaty simply provided that the transit-duty should not be increased beyond Ae then existing rates ; but, as those rates were never ascertained, this provision proved, in effect, of no avail, and two evil conse-quences followed from the position in which the matter was left^ In the first place, a number of articles — and more especially the

CLIMATE OF TIEMTSIN. 285

important article of tea — ^were subjected occasionally to very heary imposts under the name of Tea-duties, whereby, in point of fiict, the provisions of the tariff were in a great measure rendered angatory. In the second place, the power of indefinite taxation, thus left to the Chinese government introduced an element of great uncertainty into mercantile transactions both in exports and imports.

In the various suggestions and conmiunications which, at Lord Elgin^s invitation, had been given to him by different mercantile bodies in China, this difficulty had been repeatedly referred to, but none of them contained any plan for its removal It was met in the British treaty negotiated at Tientsin by an article enabling the British merchant to purchase, at the rate of 2^ per cent ad valorem^ in the case of imports at the port of entry, and in the case of exports at the first inland barrier through which his commodi-ties would pass, a certificate enabling him to carry his goods duty (ree, in the latter case, to the port of shipment, and in the former to any place in the interior of China to which it may be destined.

In a separate clause the amount of indemnity claimed by us for kMses sustained at Canton was stated at two millions of taels (about £650,000), and a farther sum of two million taels was claimed in compensation for the expenses of the war.

The above were the most important points in which the British Treaty of Tientsin differed fix>m the other treaties signed at the auiie pUce and time. The first great step having been thus adiieved toward the placing of oiit relations with the Celestial Empire upon a new and more substantial basis than had hitherto subsisled, it only remained for Lord Elgin to await the imperial iwient to the treaty which had just been negotiated ere he finally bade adieu to Tientsin. Our experience of this " heavenly spot" had now extended over a period of a month, and we were not -^rry to think that it was soon to be brought to a termination. l>iuiDg the last few days the temperature had been rapidly in* cretfliDg. At first we had hot days, but the nights were cool, and the thennometer sometimes showed a variety of 20^ in the twen-ty-fiMir houra ; now, however, the nights were beginning to be op* pranve, and the thennometer ranged from 90*^ to 96^ in the oodest part of the yamun* I am indebted to our medical attend-ant, Dr. Saunders, for the annexed register of the temperature dur-ing our stay at Tientsin. Although the thermometer showed so

286 GEOGRAPHY OF THE COUNTRY.

high a range, the heat was not accompanied by those debilitating effects which so often attend it in tropical latitudes. The air was dry and pure, and the general health of the squadron remamed good. We had been threatened with a rainy season in June, bat, with the exception of one or two heavy showers, the weather con-tinued fine throughout the month.

It was, indeed, mu(\h to be regretted that — as, during the fiist portion of our occupation of the river and Gulf, the climate was so favorable to the health of the men — ^nothing should have been accomplished in surveying the unknown mouths of the Pdho and in exploring some of its tributaries. For a period of three months upward of twenty men-of-war lay idle in the Chilf, and during a number of weeks our gun-boats navigated the Peiho, yet we sail-ed away from those shores with our geographical knowledge as liipited as when we first arrived there. Beyond pulling for abont two miles up the Grand Canal, we know nothing more of the coorae or depth of water of that channel of communication than is furnish-ed in the records of the former embassies. As far as we went, we found water enough for gun-boats, the banks being in places boilt up with wheat-straw and matting. The course is very winding, as indeed in this place it is, properly speaking, not a canal, bat a river, into which the Grand Canal is led some miles above its junction with the Peiho. It is called by the Chinese the Grain-bearing Biver. About a mile higher up the Peiho, and debouch-ing into it on the same side as the Grand Canal, is a smaller canal, which takes' a southerly coufse across the wheat plain, and was reported to lead to Ho-kien and the Peh-hu lake, and so into the southern parts of the province of Shansee.

About half a mile beyond this canal the Peiho is entered by a river apparently exceeding it in size and volume, commonly known as the Yen-ho, or Great Salt Biver. It is spanned by a bridge of boats at its point of junction ; and, to judge fix)m the number and size of the junks widi which the stream was crowded, must be an important channel of internal conununication. Sir Frederick Nic-olson pulled up it for a few hundred yards, and brought bade a poor account of the depth of water ; but I have ridden along its banks for some miles, and have seen junks navigating it whose draught of water must have equaled, if not exceeded, tiiat of our smallest class of gun-boats. The direction which this river takes renders it important that we should know its capabilities, as it

ABUNDANCE OF ICE. 287

fetches a point to the west of Pekin as near to that dtj as the Peiho approaches it on the east

The only channel of water-communication we observed to enter the Peiho on its left bank was a small canal which debouched op* posite the peninsula upon which our yamun was situated. As fkr M I followed this canal, it pursued a northerly direction across the barren-looking steppe which I have already described- Its course was marked not so much by the usual line of trees as by large iso-lated mud villages, which doubtless it supplied with the means of ^ intercommunication. It was navigated by very small jtmks, a Domber of which were often fiE^tened in a long string to each otlier, and punted along till they came to a sharp turn or other impediment when they would break up like a n^ This canal, I strongly suspect, connected the Peiho with the stream usually known as its northern mouth, and which enters the Oulf about ten mika to the north of Takoo ; but this is mere conjecture, as I could not obtain any reliable information on the subject From the diffisrent accounts one received in answer to geographical in-quiries it was evident how reluctant the people were to impart knowledge of their country to the barbarian.

If the climate of Tientsin was latterly somewhat oppressive, we oonldy at all events, luxuriate freely in that most powerful allevia-tioQ to the discomfort of intense heat — ^ice. The whole population ooqU revel in it if they chose. Boat-loads of it traversed the riv-er—ooolies staggered under the refireshing burden along the broil-ing s&eeta— beggars stood at comers and sold it for infinitesimal sQiBs wd other beggars came and bought it Food of all sorts was abundant, and our requisitions in this respect were promptly ittgpded to ; though it must be confessed that, in respect of bee^ tbej were sometimes a little unreasonable, as all the cattle are naed in these parts for draught purposes only, a fact which their wdl-shod hoofii undeniably attested. Coarse but not ill-flavored aprieoli, and ooarser peaches, with small marsh-melons and apples ud peam, furnished us with dessert, and the sailors in the river ^rilh the maladies incidental to an indiscriminate use of fruit in a hoi <*^iTnatg

Tlie court-yard of the yamun, roofed over with matting, always ■fibrded us a oool and agreeable lounge. In its grateful shade we piajed quoits and established a skittle-alley, a game which had the merit of being, at all events, as aristocratia in the eyes of the

288 CUBIOSITY-HDNTING.

Chinese as any other, and of giving us exercise when it was im-possible to hce the rays of the sun, even as it was sinking below the horizon. Unlike the sun of the tropics, mercifol duiing the final hour of his existence, the sun at Tientsin darted fieij rays at jou up to the last moment of the long summer day.

On Sundays this sheltered court was turned into a place of worship. The pulpit was on one of the raised platforms contain-ing the emperor's handwriting, the roof adorned with dragons and the mystic signs of Confucian philosophy. Army, navy, and diplomacy seated themselves in the quoit-ground and skitde-allej^ grouped themselves round the majestic old tree which stood in the centre, or took up a position beneath a collection of gods and goddesses, who gazed as imperturbably at the scene on one side as a group of Chinese did on the other. It was a picturesque, but, at the same time, an impressive ceremony, none the less sug-gestive in its simplicity because brought into such dose and strik-ing contrast with the mixed emblems of an obscure metaphysical system on the one hand, and a debasing superstition on the other.

After we had signed the treaty, and a proclamation had been issued by the commissioners informing the Chinese public that the foreigners now in the river might shortly be expected to evac-uate it, the people began to regain their confidence ; new shops were opening daily in the suburbs, and curiosily-hunting com-menced with that energy which seems to distinguish the " barba-rian" of every "outside nation" when he visits the "Central Flowery Land." The great inconvenience attending this amuse-ment at Tientsin was in the medium of circulation. We had brought with us a quantity of sycee silver, but the weighing out of a mass of particles of silver for each purchase was a tiresome and uncertain operation. Mexican dollars were taken, but not very freely, and then for much less than their value, while the only small change current was copper cash, of which a dollars worth weighs fix>m ten to fifteen lbs. The simplest plan of di-viding a dollar was to cut it in halves with a chopper, and redi-vide them if you wanted to purchase a shilling's worth of any thing; but it was as inconvenient to cany a chopper in one's purse as ten pounds' weight of copper, or a pair of scales, which were the other alternatives. Moreover, there was veiy little worth buying, and I saw no good old China, enamel, bronzes, or any of those articles which form the staple of Chinese works of " virto.''

i

DUPLICITY OF THE COMMIS8IONEB8. 289

CHAPTER 20.

CHAPTER XX.

Doflfeiiyof tbe€knmniHkmeit.^AmTalorthe Emperor's AMeiit.—AniTal of Be-cnforeenentt.— Abandonment of Visit to Peidn. — Conieqaences of Delay. ^Statc of Mmttcn in the Sonth. — ^Ftnal Vint to Commiiwoncni. — Death of the Prime Min-liter To.— Hwaahana*! Poems.—" Old*' Chang : his poetical EffQsion8.~Departue (mm TKentrin.— The Great Wall— State of Matten in the Sonth.— Appointment of ftv« CommisBioneii. — Militaiy GoTemmeni of Canton«^Lonl Elgin's Ditpatcfa to the General — ^Departnn for Japan.

Although, in the ordinary course of diplomatic routine, it is ooDsidered unnecessary to procure, before ratification, the assent of the sovereign to a treaty negotiated between specially appoint-ed plenipotentiaries. Lord Elgin decided upon adopting the course followed by Sir Uenry Pottingcr in the Treaty of Nankin, and obtuning the imperial assent to the treaty, the ratifications of which, it had been arranged, should be exchanged at Pekin with-in the period of a year from the date of its signature. His intention to this effect was expressed to the commissioners, who, accordingly, four days after it was signed, forwarded to his lordship a communi-cation in which they stated that they had received an imperial au-tograph rescript to the foUowing effect : " We have perused your memorial and know all. Respect this." As the fact of the em-peror's cognizance of '* all" did not by any means imply his as-sent to it, the embassador replied that he " was still awaiting his majesty's approval to the conditions of the treaty." In answer to which, the commissioners stated that, " as soon as we shall have in penon presented the originals of the different nations' treaties, with the seals and signatures, to his majesty at the capital, and reoeiTed the ratification of them in the imperial autograph, it shall be transmitted, with all speed, to Shanghai for the information '"*f TOOT excellency."

Lord Elgin, in reply to the above communication, states " that tie can not consider peace to be re-established until he shall have \*een satisfied of the emperor's entire acceptance of the conditions afpreed to by the commissioners as his majesty's plenipotentiaries. That the undersigned is neither acting nor insisting upon more liian is justified by the usage of the empire, is shown bv the de-

T

290 AHBIVAL OF THE EMPEBOB'S ASSENT.

cree of the late emperor, a copy of which he has the honor to in-close. Within a few days of its arrival at Kankin, Sir H. Pottm-ger began to move his fleet down the Yang-tse-Kiang. The un-dersigned is bound to require an assurance, similarly complete, of the purpose of his present majesty to abide by the engagexnentB entered into on his behalf. Without such an assurance the un-dersigned can not quit Tientsin, and delay in procuring it will leave him no other alternative but to order up to that city the large body of troops which has arrived fiom Hong Kong, and is now lying in the Gulf of Pechelee."

This letter was followed up by a prompt requisition for bairack accommodation for the 59th regiment, which had recently aihved in the G-ulf in the troop-ship Adventure. It produced an ioune-diate effect, the commissioners replying the same day, and promis-ing to procure the required assent, all difficulty on the subject being removed from their minds by the fact which had been brought to their notice of the existence of a precedent

Accordiligly, on the 4th of July, or only two days afterward, a letter was received firom the commissioners with the following in-closure : " On the 23d day of the 5th moon of the 8th year of Hien Fung (8d of July), the great council had the honor to reoelTe the following imperial decree :

'' KweUiang and his colleagues have submitted for our perusal copies of the treaties of the different nations. These have been negotiated and sealed by Kweiliang and his colleague. As Kwd-liang and his colleague now represent that the different nation? are desirous of having our autograph acknowledgment as evidence of their validity, we (hereby signify) our assent to all the proposi-tions in the English and French, and in the Bussian and American treaties, as submitted to us in their previous memorial by these ministers, and we command that the course pursued be in aocoid-ance therewith. Bespect this."

With reference to this imperial decree, Mr. Wade states in his note on the above document that " these Shang-yu imperial de-crees are never in autograph. They are prepared by the council, and go forth as the will of the emperor. It will be remembered with what ceremony Kweiliang produced that declaring the pow-ers with which he and Hwashana were invested at their first con-ference with Lord Elgin." It wiU be observed that this decree, which was only forced out of the emperor by Lord Elgin's perti-

ABANDONHENT OF VISIT TO FEKIN. 291

nacity, was in general terms, and applied to the treaties made by the other powers as well as ourselves.

The 59Ui were actually on their way up the river in gun-boats when this letter arrived. Their advance was at once counter-manded, and they returned to Hong Kong without ever having reached Tientsin, but not without having done good service.

It was, indeed, with feelingp of the deepest r^ret and disap-pointment that, in consequence of the news which now arrived from Canton, Lord Elgin found himself compelled to give this order, and to abandon his original intention of visiting Pekin in order to present to the emperor the letter with which he had been aoeredited by her majesty. The very success which had attended oar operations hitherto, and the facility with which they had been oanied out, only furnished a more unmistakable proof of the ease with which we might have reached Pekin, had we been at Tien-tsia two months earlier, when Canton and its neighborhood were 5iill tranquil, when the Chinese were unprepared, and the climate was that of an English spring. The political importance of such an achievement it is impossible to overestimate. The much-vexed question of the reception of a British minister at the capital would have been set at rest forever, and under peculiarly £stvorable con-ditions.

Now, unfortunately, every thing combined to induce his excel-lency to abandon the idea. A Tartar force had collected in the neighborhood of the capital during the last two months, and, al-though a visit to Pekin after the signature of the treaty of peace would not have had a hostile character, yet it would have been distasteful to the emperor, and it must, in common prudence, have preceded the evacuation of Tientsin by the allied force. A state •if aflhirs had, however, arisen in the south that made it impera-tive that neither the naval nor military force should be detained in the north any longer than was absolutely necessary. More-aver, the sun was in its most &tal month, and a march of fifty miles would be attended with serious consequences, while the eelai and prestige of any such movement would have been very much oentnUzed by the dilatory nature of the negotiations, and the ap-psrent vadlUtion at the outset

Thus every one of those evil results, as arising out of the delay, which had been anticipated by Lord Elgin at Shanghai more than three months before, and to avoid which he felt justified in pro-

292 STATE OF. MATTERS IN THE SOUTH.

ceeding to the north without wailing for the admiral, had been realized.*

On the 26th of May Lord Elgin had received a communicatioD from General Straubenzee assuring him of the perfect tranquillitj of Canton, and of his ability to spare a large share of his troops for operations in the north, should thej become necessary. In consequence of this assurance, Lord Elgin did not hesitate, imme-diately on his arrival at Tientsin, to write to him requesting him to send up the force available for the purpose, and on the 80th of June these reached the Gulf. They brought with them, however, intelligence of a totally altered condition of affairs from that which had existed only a few weeks previously. Sufficient time had elapsed since our first appearance in the Gulf to enable the Chi-nese government to instigate the Braves to attack Canton. Their assaults on the city, the expedition of our troops to the White Cloud Mountains, and the increased audacity of the Braves in consequence of the unsuccessful issue of this operation, was neirs which imparted to the state of matters at Canton a more serioos aspect than they had yet worn. Although, from our previoiifi acquaintance with both the foreign and Chinese community, ve were aware that the panic which existed in the south was proba-bly to a great extent groundless, still the representations generally made of the nature of the crisis were too urgent to be disregarded. From the effect they produced in England some idea may be formed of the sensation they were calculated to create at Tientdn.

« TKa Earl of Elgin to the Earl of Clctroidon,

ughang1iAl,April8,lS3^

" Mt Lord, — The Coromandel, tender to Bear Admiral Sir Michael Seymour'^ flag-fihip, has jnst arriTed in this haibor, and reports that the admiral did not inteod to leave Hong Kong before the 25th nit. He can not, therefore, be expected here before the middle of this month. If I were to postpone my departure for the Dorth until after the admiral's arrival, I think, and I believe that my opinion on this pmst is shared by the plenipotentiaries of the other great powers who are acting in concen with us in this quarter, that the infikrests of the public senrioe would sufler, for the following reasons : Firstly, because the Chinese would impute the delay to TsdllatioD and weakness ; secondly, because we should lose our hold on the ricejunks destined for Pekin, which are now proceeding toward the north, and may yet be arreted, if necessary, at the mouth of the Peiho ; thirdly, because, if the information I have le-oeived from Count Poutiatine on this head be correct, the season for operatioiis in the region to which we are proceeding tenninates with the end of the month of Bfay. I have, therefore, taken it upon myself, in the absence of Admiral Seymour, lo addre» to the senior officers at Shanghai and Hong Kong letters, of which I herewith indoee copies, and which, I trust, will be approved by your lordship.** — Bbm-Bookf p. 258.

FINAL VISrr TO COMHISSIONEBa 298

To keep troops in the north after the treaty had received the emperor's assent, and when it was reported that the British com-manity at Hong Kong were to be ruthlessly massacred, and the British garrison in Canton ignominionsly expelled, for want of a sufficient military force to protect the one place and retain the other, would be clearly unjustifiable ; and Lord Elgin at once re-turned the whole force to General Straubenzee, in the earnest hope that they might arrive in time to enable him to restore confidence by adminJHtering to the Braves that lesson, without which, accord-ing to the opinion generally entertained, they would never be im-bued with a proper respect for British authority. With this view he reminded his excellency " that the power of resorting to such hostile operations as they might deem necessary for the security of their military position at Canton was reserved to the command-era-in-chief, in the most ample tenns, in the communication ad-dressed by the plenipotentiaries to the government of China, which formed the subject of my letter to yourself and Sir Michael Sey-mour, dated the 6th of February last"

Before leaving Tientsin Lord Elgin intimated his desire to meet the commiasioners in a semi-official manner ; and accordingly, on the morning of the 6th of July, we proceeded to the " Temple of the Winds, which was not so distant as that at which the former interviews were held, and there paid a friendly visit to the com-misBtoners, in the course of which Lord Elgin alluded to the state of affiure in the south, and the conduct of the imperial commis-sioner Hwang, nad he insisted upon it, there is no doubt he might have procured this worthy's disgrace, instead of leaving this to be done on a future day. Lord Elgin was, however, un-willing to use language which might seem to imply that we were unable to cope with the Canton Braves, and he ^erefore content-ed himself with warning the commissioners that the conduct Hwang was pursuing in the south would lead to a recurrence of those scenes which they must deplore equally with himself. Kweiliang replied in the same spirit, and expressed his earnest hope that the troubles at Canton were now at an end, and that the trca^ just concluded would inaugurate a more peaceful era in the relations of the Celestial Empire with foreigners. Ho promised to use his influence to put a stop to the proceedings of the Gov-ernor General Hwang.

Since our last interview with this venerable old man, news

294 HWASHAKA'S F0EM8.

have been received of the death of Yn, the first minister of the Council of State. This gave Kweiliang the highest rank in the empire.

The embassador adverted to the expediency of a Chinese d ficer of rank being sent to England as embassador, and asked the portly Hwashana whether he would like to go in that capacity; to which that sedate and imperturbable old aristoout rq>hed, '^ That if the emperor ordered him to go, he would go ; but if the emperor did not order him to go, he would not go." Lord Elgin then complimented him on his eminence as a scholar and a poet^ and referred to the distinction which was conferred upon him by his having taken the degree of Han, an allu^on which caused him somewhat to relax as he acknowledged the compliment with an air of grim gratification. The allusion to his poetical composi-tions was met by an offer on his part to present Lord Elgin irith a copy of some of them, and a goodly supply of volumes acooid-ingly followed us on our return to the yamun, containing the metrical effiisions of this accomplished " imperial expositor of the classics." As I am not aware that the poem of a Chinese cabinet minister has e^er yet appeared in prints I take this opportunity of giving publicity to the following stanzas, as a specimen of those which have, during the intervals of his political labors, flowed from the pen of his excellency Hwashana. It is just possible that their merit is due rather to Mr. Wade's elegant traniBlation than to the poetic talent of the composer.

Hwashtma*s Ompkant when, on kU sectmd misnon to Momkhdeny ike CcpUalofMn-chmaia, heJbuU kuiuelfonoe more at the Inn at Chakm,

I.

'< On toward the sister capital onoe more, By duty called, I track my distant way ; llie watch-^og notes my wheel, as droops the night O'er the thatched cot, and slowly tramp my steeds Up the wild pass, in aatamn's mourning sad, Joyless the moon. And now in chamher lone, Beneath his single lamp, the trareler dreams Of honae and home, an hundred leagnes hehind. Where are his rhymes these panels bore of old ? Vain search I o'er Lu-ho let him listless pore.

n.

Where herds and swine once lay, a hostel now. Chalau is won at last. My car is staid. As sunset, slanting, strikes its roo( and chill

ft

OLD CHANG*8** POETICAL EFFUSIONS. 295

Hm widespread ban admit the ereniag^t breatlu Forloni the scene— a rery ** Walk in Dew."* Envoj of migestj ! so known to whom ? Peace where the state hath need — ^no word of care ; Tnra to thy mose— let Tene these walls adorn.*'

I leave to competent critics the task of discussing the merits pf this production ; but in justice to a humbler poet, who became well known to us during our trip to the north, and whose gentle and amiable character impressed us all in his &vor, I venture to insert a composition which I think bears oflf the palm from his ex-:dted competitor. Old Chang was one of those not very old men who have probably been known as '' old Chang" all Uieir lives. He was a not un&vorable specimen of the literaiy class of China —a good scholar, an efficient spy in behalf of his own government, a gentleman in his manners, a great humbug, and a confirmed i>pium-«noker. He did not speak a word of English, though he had lived with Mr. Wade as teacher for many years, and in that capacity accompanied us to Tientsin. The poem, also translated and versified by Mr. Wade, which was written on a fim in memory of the occasion, was thus headed :

* TvD tfsLOias of Terns, in Stc words each, presented hy Chang-Tmig-Tan to Wade his popil, and literary acqnaintance of nine years* standing, with whom he had been a shipmaie to Takn, and at Tientsin, on finding himself several months on hoard the same vessel with him. Composed on the 6th moon of the year Wn Wn (June, 1854).

** So best, in lettered toU thine aim To aid the world — ^by one fair deed To earn a thoosand antnmns' iame. The day*s capridons will why heed ? Fitfal as down npon the air A babble that the waters bear, Is all onr glory's fleeting pride. Thy pastime in the leisure hour The nicely-stadied rhjrme to pair ; Nor titles win thy praise, nor power — And wen, for all is change. Though hit The moon, yet dark the erening's doom:

• The '*WaIk in Dew** is a poem, allnsion to which is made to couTey to the pcaicr th0 idea of shuddering or shiTering horror with which the present poet gases natlwaeese before hfan. ThellDeson the title-page of this volome are a rhythmical oif the JMt half fftwiiL

296 DEPARTURE FROM TIENTSIN.

Changeful onr lot, as light and gloom Play o*er the blue stream's tide.

n.

Nine yean since first we met are sped,

Thenceforth in friendly nnion bound ;

Now six long moons one deck we tread.

Oar night-lamp trimmed, we chat the round

Of earth's affairs; the homing day \

On weighty labors pours its ray ;

We part inditing matters grave.

For me, my part fled Tainly by,

And with what haste I No longer proud,

But free I stray, as floats on high,

Now clustering, now dispersed, the cloud.

Home to my books — I ask no more —

With age my limbs and trarel sore ;

Giye me my hillside cave."

Hwasbana's volome was not the only present Lord Elgin re-ceived from the commissioners ; nine enormous earthen jars of wine, of dimensions sufficient for Morgiana to smother thieves in. made their appearance just as we were leaving the yamun.

The same simoon we bade a final adieu to the " Temple oi Supreme Felicity," and embarked on board the Firm gun-boat A flowing tide swept us down to the Gulf in eight hours, and that night we had the satis&ction of once more finding ourselves on board the good ship Furious. As she had now remained without moving &om her dismal anchorage for three months, our appear-ance was hailed with some pleasure, as the signal for a change to new and more lively scenes.

As we found that we should just have time, on our way back to Shanghai, to visit the Great Wall, we steered a northeasterlj course after we had weighed anchor the following day. Before dark we saw the Sha-liu-tien, or ^* Sand-hill Fields," extensive sand-banks rising but a few feet above the water, remarkable only for being a &vorite and profitable fishing-ground, and for a square joss-house painted white to serve as a beacon, and which, situated at one comer, is the only building visible.

The following morning found us off the high land of the de partment of Shuntien, in the province of Chih-IL Unfortunately, the weather was thick and lowering ; the mountains were capped with clouds ; and we could only judge of their height when we caught an occasional glimpse of a peak rismg from two to three

THE GBEAT WALL. 297

tbooaand feet above the sea-level. In fine weather there is no difficulty in finding the Great Wall, which is seen for miles scor-ing with an irreguliv line the sides of the steepest hills, and cross* ing their highest ridges. To-day, however, we looked in vain for any such indication of its existence; dense masses of cloud rolled along the base of the range ; while misty drizzling rain rendered our search neither hopeful nor agreeable. About 9 A.M. we pass-ed a large walled city, near which a mass of solid masonry abut-ted on the sea, with a tower or two in rear. This answered in some degree to Lord Jocelyn^s description of the locality, but, ac-cording to the chart, the position was placed some miles farther 00. We therefore followed the coast for two more hours, until we shoaled the water to five £sithoms, without observing any sign of the Wall.

It was now evident that we had passed the object of our search, and that the walled town we had observed was Shan-hai, described as being situated at the point where the Great Wall abuts on the sea. The north shore of the Gulf of Leatung, along which we bad since been steaming, was the most beautiful piece of coast ^eneiy we had seen in China. Rich plains, covered with the brightest verdure, rose in swelling undulations from the sea to the magnificent range of peaked mountains in rear. Villages ▼ere scattered plentifully over them. Snug fSurm-houses nestled in clamps of wood, and innumerable cattle dotted the landscape, as though they had been sown upon it broadcast Every thing indicated a prosperous rural population, occupying a champaign of much ferdlity and picturesque beauty.

We were aony to turn our backs upon it without either prose-•mting our voyage to the new port of Neu-chwang, from which we were scarce fifty miles distant, or returning to inspect more close-ly the far-famed Wall ; but the heavy fogs would have decided the question against farther exploration, even had not our anxiety to reach Shanghai in time for the departure of the mail influenced Lord Elgin in avoiding any farther delay. A rapid and proftper-'jna passage of four days to Shanghai from this point enabled us to secure this latter object

Prior to leaving Tientsin Lord Elgin had acquainted the ad-miral with his intention of proceeding at an early date to Japan, at the same time adverting to the state of affairs at Canton, and informing his excellency that the conclusion of the treaty would

1

298 APPOINTMENT OF FIVE COMMISSIONERS.

releajse the naval foroes from any farther service in the north of the empire. As the complexion of the news received firom Can-ton on our arrival at Shimghai, however, was not in any dq;ree improved, Lord Elgin determined to postpone his departure for Japan, in order to consult with the admiral upon the course to be pursued in that quarter.

The following fortnight we passed at Shanghai in a state of some anxiety, as the admiral did not appear, and the condition of Canton seemed to be getting worse by each successive mail: not until the 26th were we cheered by the arrival of the Cioromaadel in the river, the admiral having made a slow passage from the north in his flag*ship, which was then lying at the Rugged Islands. He had been more fortunate than ourselves in his trip to the Oreat Wall, which was visited both by his excellency and Baron 6ro6L

On the day previous to the arrival of the Admiral Ijord Elgia received the intelligence frx)m Pekin that five conunissioners had been appointed to proceed to Shanghai for the settlement of the tariff, and the fr^oning of those general trade*regulations which must necessarily be drawn up as a supplemental part of the treatj. Of these commissioners, two were our old friends Kweiliang and Hwashana, to whom was added the governor general of the Two Kiangs, Ho-Kwei-tsick, one of the most highly esteemed men in the empire for learning and administrative ability. Two oUier mandarins of less note completed the commission.

As no commissioners of the eminence of these mandarins had been demanded for the revision of the tariff, etc., their appoint-ment to this frmction was a spontaneous act, on the part of the government, of some significance ; and their position and charac-ter were such that, whatever idea Lord Elgin might at one time have entertained of proceeding to Canton instead of Japan was now abandoned, as he considered it above all things essential that he should not lose the opportunity which the visit of the commis-sioners would afford him of exerting that influence which perscmal intercourse would, he doubted not, enable him to acquire over them.

Though the Treaty of Tientsin effected the great object of rev-olutionizing the system under which our political and commercial relations with the empire were to be for the future oondacted, there were many most important details to be considered in the altered conditions under which these latter were to be worked

LORD £LGIN*S DISPATCH TO THE GEKEBAL. 299

oat, and the embassador perceived with no little satisSsu^on that these might now be arranged by himself in accordance with the <«pirit of the treaty, and with that deliberation and solemnity which they deserved ; nor, indeed, however deeply interested he might feel in the state of affiurs then existing at Canton, did he consider that their settlement fell within the province of a civilian. The city was under a purely military government It is true, the GoTemor Pih*kwei was exercising certain functions as a Chinese aathority, but he did so only with the sufferance of General Strau-benzee, and as an assistance to that officer in preserving peace and order : should the general have found his presence an obstruction nuher than an aid to his administration, it was in his power at any time to Bospead him fipom his functions, and turn him out of the dty or keep him in confinement, as, indeed, for some part of the time he did.

Lord Elgin was strongly impressed with the notion that the most thorough and satis&ctory way of restoring quiet to Canton was 10 inflict a sunmiaiy chastisement upon those who disturbed the peace there ; and accordingly, in a letter to General Strauben-zee, infimning his excellency of the expected arrival of the com* mivioners above named, and of his intention to meet them at Shanghai, the embassador goes on to say : " It is not impossible that I may be able to induce these high officers to take some active sleps to check the proceedings of the Braves at Canton ; but, look-ing at the present state of affidrs in that quarter as portrayed in rem exeeUency 's dispatch of the 22d instant, and in &e reports I have received fipom Mr. Parkes, I can not help thinking that it would be vexy desirable that any such intimation by the Chinese authorities should be preceded by some vigorous decisive action on our part, showing our power to control and punish the Braves.

^ It is for your excellency to determine how such a blow can be moat eflfectually struck ; but I trust you^ill excuse me for mak-ing a SQggestion which is prompted by the expected arrival of the unperial commissioners, and the anomalous state of affairs at Can-ton.**

I^nd Elgin also wrote a letter to the admiral immediately on hM arrival at Shanghai, calling his excellency's attention " to the '^3atinaed existence in that quarter of a state of afEairs to which it ^ most important an arrest should be put at the earliest period,*' And proceeding in terms almost identic^ with those I have quoted

300 DEPAJ3TUBE FOB JAPAN.

as already addressed to General Straubenzee. In reply to this communication, the admiral stated that it was his intention, prior to going south, to proceed to Nagasaki for the purpose of deHver-ing over the yacht Emperor to the government of Japan, and wa-tering the CsJcutta.

During this period of our stay at Shanghai the climate was more oppressively hot than I ever remember to have felt it in any pait of the world. The thermometer did not show a higher tempera-ture than at Tientsin, but there was a stifling heaviness in the at-mosphere which acted in a most depressing manner both on health and spirits. Cases of death by sun-stroke were of daily oocor* rence, chiefly among the sailors in the shipping which crowded the river. Upward of a hundred merchantmen, waiting hopelesa-ly for cargoes, were lying at anchor under the broiling sun, their lists of sick daily increasing under the deleterious influence of the climate.

As two or three weeks must elapse before the arrival of the commissioners. Lord Elgin determined to escape for the inter?al to Japan, and return in time to meet their excellencies at Shang-hai. In the mean time certain changes had taken place m the " personnel" of the mission. Mr. Bruce had proceeded to En^d with the treaty of Tientsin immediately on our return to Shang-hai ; Mr. Jocelyn had arrived to relieve Mr. Cameron, who went home on his promotion ; and Mr. Morrison returned to England With our party thus reduced, we embarked on board the Foiioos on the last day of July, 1858, delighted under any circumstanoes to escape £rom the summer heats of Shanghai, were it only for a few weeks, but our gratification increased by the anticipation of visiting scenes which have ever been veiled in the mystery of a jealous and rigid seclusion.

HBSr VIEW OF JAPAN. $01

CHAPTER 21.

CHAPTER XXI,

Fint View of JapuL — ^Lorelj Scenerf. — Singnlmr Bo«ti. — PAppenbeiiK. — ^DnogAroe Forts.— EDchanting Scenery. — A philotophic«l Port-goArduiL — ^Vuit of Japaneie Ofldals. — I>ecimA. — Remorai of Restrictions. — Former Imprisonment of I)ntch. —A smuggling Skipper.—- Dutch Covetoasness. — Strict Rules. — Recent Conces-MOQi^^NagMAki. --Aspect of Houses.— Shops u Nagasaki— The 8tveets.~Plan of the City. — Janitors of Decima. «

Ths distance from Shanghai to Nagasaki is not above 450 miles ; but, if oceans rolled between the two empires, Japan could not be more thoroughly isolated than it is from the rest of the world* We steamed smoothly and rapidly over this narrow strip of sea, 8o rarely traversed by craft of any sort There was not a 2<peck of foam to ruffle its glassy sur&ce, scarce a fleece of cloud to checker the deep blue overhead : well might we imagine our-selvcB gliding across these solitary waters to some dreamland, se-curely set in a quiet comer of another world, far away from the t^rms and troubles of this one. On the afternoon of the 2d of August we first saw symptoms of land, and passed close to* some high pointed rocks of picturesque form, in places covered with rerdure, but not affording standing-ground for an inhabitant These bold landmarks are out of sight of the Japanese coast, and are call^ the Asses' Ears. Early on the following morning the hig:falancls of Japan were in sight, the nearest land being the island of Iwosima. As we approached it, the first object visible was an evidence of civilization unknown among the Chinese ; on its high-est summit a flag-staff at once telegraphed our appearance to the midn land. We did not then know Uiat cannon, placed at inter-vals the whole way to the capital, were noisily repeating this sig-nal, 80 that intelligence of our approach was even then reverber-ating almost from one end of the empire to the other ; and his majesty the Tycoon at Yedo, six or seven hundred miles away, was informed that we had entered the Bay of Nagasaki by the time that we had dropped our anchor in it

The high green islands of Iwosima conceal from view the en-tranoe to the bay until you round their westernmost point : even then other islands and projecting promontories make it somewhat

302 LOVELY SCENERY.

uncertain. Fortunately, the ship's pilotage does not rest with us. and we can bestow our attention unreservedly on the sceneiy, which is indeed of a character to rivet it^ whether we will or no. The islands on our right rise abruptly out of the water. The overhanging promontory above us is crowned by a battery of guns, round which a few soldiers are grouped, gazing curiously: beyond it more batteries appear on sundry other projections of the shore, which is here and there indented with bays, from whkh deep- wooded valleys run up into the island. They seem thiddy populated, for the cottages, with their high thatched roo&, cluster up the hill side, and peep out &om under the dark foliage, b places the islands are precipitous, and masses of towering rock deny even to the hardiest shrubs holding-ground.

The scenery on the opposite shore is of the same character, bat on a grander scale. It trends away in a series of deep bays and beetling cliffs, upon the rugged base of which the waves wage an incessant war, and surge and moan fretfully in deep caves and fissures, as though lamenting their fruitless efforts to undermine them. In charming contrast with these sterner features are grassy slopes and rice-fields rising in terraces on the green hill sides, and shady groves with blue smoke curling above them, denoting the existence of snug hamlets. Securely moored in secluded creeks, or hauled up on little patches of sandy beach, are quaint-shaped native craft ; others are glancing about these calm inland waters, ferrying across from islands to the main passengers and caigOi o^ lying motionless as though asleep on the water, their sails ^'fold-ed like thoughts in a dream," while the occupants are fishing. These sails are composed either of strips of matting or of doth These are generally black and white alternately, each strip not being above two feet wide, and hoisted perpendicularly. When it is necessary to reduce sail, one or more strips are taken in. When not sailing, they are sculled by ten or a dozen stalwart figures, their entire clothing consisting but of scanty waistdoths^ and their light-bronze complexions giving them an unusuallj naked appearance. These men aU work under substantial awn-ings of matting, or a light wooden frame- work, constructed in the afterpart of the boat The bows are considered the more honor-able position, and hence this is the portion of the boat set apait for passenger accommodation. The prows are sharp-pointed, and elevated high out of the water. Some of these passenger-boats

PAFFENBEBO. SQg

piaed close to as for the purpose of a doser inspection. Those within manifested no fear, but a good deal of interest and curiosi-ty; numeroua Sags fluttered irom small flag-stafia in the stem, each tlevice having its appropriate signification, unknown to us. The colors were generally black and white, and the form square or an-gular. A black circle on a white ground, or black and white tri-utgleawere the commonest; but ofben thej were complicated, and presented to the uninitiated the appearance of an elaborate oollec-tioD of the emblems of fiee-masonry.

Steaming gently on, we prescnUy open the mouth of the long DUTow harbor, with the conical wooded island of Pappcnberg govding its entrance ; beyond which, formerly, foreign ships were not allowed to penetrate, and which must ever hold an onenvia-ble notoriety in the historical antinlfl of Japan as the Tarpeian

rock, down the pretupitous sides of which hundreds of Christians, dohng the fierce persecution which had for its object the utter exlermination of all who professed the Creed, were hurled into the deep-bine waters which eddy round iL The moral of the sad Any is written on the face of the steep hills which inclose the bay ; tiers of cannon rise one above another ; battcTy succeeds butery, as point after point is revealed to view. These guns are

304 DUN6ABEE FOBTS.

pointed not so much against the stranger as the Christian, wbo^ while he is dreaded, is no less despised, and the principal result of whose intercourse with the Japanese has been to furnish them with weapons by which they can the more effectually resist his esi-croachments. Notwithstanding this, Japan is once again open to the Christian ; it will remain to be proved how &r the estimate which former experience led the authorities of that empire to form of his practice and his profession will be justified m the coarse of his renewed intercourse with its inhabitants.

The guns, which appeared of enormous calibre, were for the most part unprotected by embrasures; they stood under open sheds, generally surrounded by soldiers. In addition to tboee which were real, and apparency serviceable, were long lines of sham batteries, known to sailors as Dungaree forts, and which were made simply of coarse cloth or canvas, stretched and paint-ed so as to represent batteries. It is possible that in many cases these concealed guns, and were purposely constructed in a man-ner calculated to mislead the beholder into supposing them a '^solemn sham," and so hurrying him on to his own destruction. Whether that be so or not, these gaudily painted fortifications contributed a novel and characteristic feature to the scenery, which continued to be of the most enchanting description.

The harbor of Nagasaki is an inlet of the sea, four miles long, and with an average of about a mile in breadth. At its £aather extremity lies the city, with a high range of hills in rear; the top-most summit, Kawarajama, attaining an elevation of about two thousand feet The. hills on either side of this sheet of water sometimes rise out of it in an abrupt wall of rock, at others swell gently back in wooded slopes, down which brawling streams leap into the sea; rock-cut steps ascend to airy pinnacles surmounted by guns or temples ; dense foliage clusters wherever it can find holding-ground, flinging deep shadows over crag and fissure, sub-duing and toning down all the harsher elements — just as a soft eye and gentle smile give their own expression to a countenance rugged with lines and furrows.

Behind some Dungaree forts we observed substantial buildings, apparently barracks, and gardens beautifully kept, with terraces and walks, and carefully-trimmed borders — ^the bright colors of the dresses of those who frequented them imparting a gay and almost fairy-like aspect to the scene.

VISIT OF JAPANESE OFFICIALS. 806

We had now reached the point at which, a few years ago, even Datch ships were compelled to anchor, and the interval which elapsed until permission was given them to proceed to their an-chorage was employed in secreting the Bibles. '* On anchoring at the entrance of the harbor," says Thunberg, ^' all the Bibles and prayer-books belonging to the sailors were collected and put into a chest, which was nailed down. This chest was afterward left under the care of the Japanese till the time of our depart-ure, when every one received his book again." They were also obliged to give up all their arms and ammunition. In spite, how-ever, of the abhorrence in which the Japanese hold Bibles and revolvers, we retained our right to use the one and wear the oth-er ; and it is but fair to them to say that the spiritual weapon was the only one for which wo found any need in their country.

Until quite recently, a cordon of boats, stretched across this part of the harbor, barred the fiurther progress of foreign ships. We found the obstruction represented only by one official boat, upon the deck, or rather roof of which a gentleman was seated, reading placidly, and gently fanning himself. On our approach-ing nearer he looked up and waved us benignly back with his txxL If he was the port-guardian, he was by no means a formi-ilable janitor, for on our holding on our way, regardless of his sig-nals, he fell to reading again, apparently satisfied that he had dis-charged his duty, and was henceforward relieved from all farther responsibility on our account This man's conduct furnished us with a key in aU our future intercourse with Japanese officials, who, in spite of the vehemence of their protestations so long as they believe it possible to carry out their instructions, possess a marvelous &culty of accepting whatever situation they find is in-evitably to be forced upon them. In this instance we were the less disposed to heed the signals of the dignitary in the boat, as we oould now perceive two or three ships at anchor off the town. These we discovered to be a Dutch merchant-ship and a Japanese mAn-of war steamer, besides a small cutter ; behind them were a few Japanese junks.

We were now soon at anchor, and ready to land under the I>«tch flag, which betokened the factory of Decima, which, though an kland, seems from the shipping as though it formed part of the city of Nagasaki. Before we had time to do so, however, we boarded by a boat^load of Japanese officials, the novelty of

U

306 DECIMA.— REMOVAL OF BESTBICTIONa

whose appearance and costume detained us. They came crowd-ing on the deck in the most easy, unembarrassed manner imagin-able, smiling blandly, and affably, and talking Dutch, which, how-ever, nobody on board understood. Their gauzy overcoats, loose trowsers, gaiters, and "foot-gloves" combined to form an unusiul costume ; while the position of the two swords with which each man was furnished, as they projected behind, gave him the Bp-pearance, at a distance, of some new species of biped adorned with two tails. When our curiosity had been mutually satisfied, these gentry were signed to return to their boat; and as they were unable to extract any information from us, they at once com-plied, but only re-embarked to remain stationary, a short distance off, as a sort of guard-boat.

Some of us now went on shore to call on the Dutch officials in the factory. As we neared the land we observed some of the old posts standing out of the water, within a short distance of the &c-tory, within which no Japanese boats were formerly allowed to pass, for fear of surreptitious communication being carried on with the Dutch. "We landed at a rude quay, where some Dutch sailors were lounging under an open shed ; and, passing thiongh a wooden gate, found ourselves in a single street, about two hund-red yards long, as clean and precise as a street in that paragon of neatness, the village of Brock. The houses were substantial little two-storied edifices, with green shutters and blinds, from be-hind which peeped sundry pretty-looking female Japanese (b/xs; for the Dutch here are not allowed the companionship of tb^ own countrywomen. Of the male inhabitants not half a dozen were visible, and these seemed all sailors. Asking one of them to point out the house of the chief superintendent, Mr. D6nker Curtius, we were informed that he was absent on a visit to the capital, but that his secretary was in Decima.

We were most cordially and civilly received by this gentle-man, and were delighted to learn from him that, by the latest ar-rangements entered into with the Japanese government, all for-mer restrictions limiting the exploration of foreigners to the little island, or subjecting them to the most annoying formalities in case of their wishing to proceed beyond it, were removed, and that we were now at liberty to ramble unrestrained wheresoever we pleased. There can be little doubt that the government de-sires, by pursuing a very liberal policy at Nagasaki, and by oflfer-

FORMER IMPRISONMENT OF DUTCH. 807

ing greater fiicilities and conveniences to foreigners there than elsewhere, to attract them as much as possible to this port, to the prejudice and exclusion of others. Our host informed us, how-ever, that the present governor was a man of by no means ad-vanced or liberal views, and mentioned several instances in which he had manifested retrogressive tendencies. Under the regular system, the governors of the imperial cities are removed annually, but an exception is made in the case of Nagasaki, as a man is supposed to require time to learn the temper of foreigners, and a farther period is allowed him to turn the knowledge thus gained to account On the whole, this is a convenient arrangement for foreigners, though, in the present instance, any change would in all probability have been for the better.

It appeared that Mr. Donker Curtius was now on his return journey from Yedo, where he had been residing for some time, unsuooessfully endeavoring to negotiate a new treaty. Mr. Har* ns, the American consul at Simoda, had, we learned, also return-ed to his post, after a residence in the capital attended with no immediate political results.

The houses of the Dutch officials in Decima are unpretending little abodes, generally constructed of wood, with verandas sea-ward ; the lower story devoted to warehouse purposes, the upper oontaining three or four small, simply-furnished rooms. Up to quite a recent period Decima must have presented rather the as-pect of a penal settlement than the abode of a community of mer-chants. So strict was the surveillance to which the members composmg the factory here were subjected — so severe the restric-tions by which they were bound — that one is tempted to believe that the gentlemen who chose the Dutch factory at Nagasaki as their habitation must have been the victims of that species of mis-anthropy which is supposed, in our own country, to induce men to apply for situations in light-houses. Until lately, the arrival of a Dutch ship in the harbor was the signal for a host of Japan-ese oflkials to flock to Decima. The interpreters occupied the abode assigned to them, and no one was allowed to pass from the shore to the ship unless furnished with a passport and accom-panied by one of these gentry. Then a corps of " ottonas," or official spies, were quartered in the island, whose duty it was to waloh the minutest proceedings of every member of the factory. They regularly mounted guard at the only gate through which

308 A SMUGGLING SKIPPER.

access is to be had on foot into the town, as well as both the wa-ter-gates, and both by day and night went their rounds with re-ligious punctuality and exactness.

The members of only one ecclesiastical sect, those of the Mount-ain of Koja, and the women of only one class, and that the most degraded, were permitted to enter Decima. At night the gates were shut, and no intercourse was allowed between the &ctoiy and the town after sunset This was the case when we were there ; but our passage to and from the ship was free and uninter-rupted ; nor were we exposed to that rigorous personal examina-tion of which some of the old Dutch writers complain so bitteriy. It must be admitted that their conduct provoked the annoyance. The captain of Thunberg's ship was in the habit of going on shore in breeches of enormous capacity even for a Dutchman, so heavilj laden with secreted articles of contraband that he required the support of two sailors to enable him to walk. The Japanese, dis-posed, in the first instance, to believe well of strangers, are, on the other hand, when their suspicions are once awakened, vigilant in the extreme, and are not slow in enforcing preventive measoies. Let the fate of the Dutch skipper be a warning to the British smuggler, who has been known occasionally to extend his opera-tions eastward of the Cape : that dishonest navigator was obliged to reduce his trowsers to the dimensions of those worn by portly burgomasters, and was farther subject to the indignity of having his legs felt, and his pockets turned inside out, upon the rare oc-casions when, in compliance with the urgent representations of the Dutch superintendent, the governor allowed him to land and visit the &ctory. Henceforward no man was considered safe. One gentleman was betrayed by an indiscreet parrot talking in his pocket ; another had sewn up dollars in his drawers ; so that the Japanese researches became more curious than ever, even to the gauging of high-flavored cheeses and the breaking of suspect-ed eggs. Thus has commercial dishonesty and political subs^r-iency worked to the prejudice of the foreigner in the mind of the Japanese, whose confidence in us can only be restored by the ad-herence of the merchant to a high code of mercantile morality, and by the maintenance, on the part of those who represent our country, of its national dignity.

It will be well, in considering the present position and prospects of the Dutch in this empire, to observe how little they have gain-

STRICT RULEa 309

ed by parBuing a course which has not merely discredited them in the eyes of the Japanese, but placed them on a moral footing in-ferior to that which it is now in the power of other foreign nations to adopt Truly does old Koprnpfer remark, " So great was the co?etousness of the Dutch, and so strong the alluring power of the Japaneeo gold, that, rather than quit the prospect of a trade (in-deed most advantageous), they willingly underwent an almost prpetual imprisonment — for such, in fact, is our residence in Do-cima — and chose to suffer many hardships in a foreign and heathen wuntry : to bo remiss in perfonning Divine service on Sundays and solemn festivals — ^to leave off praying and singing of psalms —entirely to avoid the sign of the cross, the calling upon the name of Christ in presence of the natives, and Yill the outer signs of Christianity; and, lastly, patiently and submissively to bi^ar the abusive and injurious behavior of these proud inGdcls toward us, than which nothing can be offered more shocking to a generous and noble mindJ'

So great was the horror and contempt of the foreigner with which their intercourse, first with the Portuguese and then with the Dutch, had inspired the government, that every Japanese con-nected in ^y way with the Decima Factory was obliged to take certain oaths, the infraction of which was visited upon the delin-quent with the severest penalties. He was bound not to serve the Dutch but in the daytime ; not to enter into any discourse or oon-veraation whatever about the forbidden sect of the Christians; not to engage in any familiarity with the Dutch upon any subject whatever, besides numerous rigid rules having reference to com-{•licity in contraband transactions. From the extreme reticence obeenred by all the officials with whom wo came in contact dur-ing our stay in Japan, wo had every reason to believe that they were bound by instructions, if not by oaths, of the same tenor, in their intercourse with us.

It will doubtless be a tedious and somewhat difficult task to dis-pel those un&vorablc impressions, which tho Japanese can scarce-ly be blamed for entertaining toward us. Still, their prejudices upon this point aro not insuperable, and if we fail to remove them, it will only be because we have failed to prove by our practice that the civilization of the West does not contaminate those with wliom it comes in contact

Hitherto the Japanese have apparently regarded the fair sex of

810 BECENT CONCESSIONS.— NAGASAKI.

foreign countries as more dangerous guests than the males. A touching story is told of a certain Dutch President of Decimaof thirty years since, one Herr Blomhoff^ who brought his wife to Nagasaki, and, pending a reference to Yedo, obtained pennissioii for her and her infant to land at Decima. Two months bad scarcely elapsed, however, before a ruthless decree arrived, order-ing the Vrouw Blomhoff to quit the Japanese shores, and con-demning the unhappy husband to a long life of single-bles6ednes& The last rumor which reached us just before leaving Shanghai was to the effect that a wedding had been consummated at Naga-saki between a young English couple, who thus inaugurated in a most interesting manner the new and enlightened i^gime. In former times, not only a wedding, but a birth or death of a Japa-nese was prohibited at Decima. It was a more simple matter in-terfering with the operations of nature in the former than in the latter event. In the case of a sudden death, the body was secret-ly conveyed out of the factory. All children bom of Japanese mothers were regarded as Japanese.

One of the most recent and important concessions which Mr. Donker Curtius had obtained from the Japanese government was permission for the children so bom to be educated in Holland— on condition, however, that in the event of their ever leviating Japan they should be treated as Dutch subjects. Letters arrived while we were at Decima from that gentleman stating that he was at Ohosaka, on his return journey from Yedo.

Eetuming on board the Furious with our report of Decima and its inmates, we landed again in the afternoon to explore the town of Nagasaki. As we neared the crowd of boats moored at the stone steps of the wharf, I experienced that feeling of pleasurable excitement, the keen edge of which becomes so blunted by the very necessity of the traveler's vocation, that he often despairs of ever again experiencing those delightful sensations incidental to strange and novel scenes which first lured him away from In? fireside. Up to this moment the town itself had been only par-tially visible, for a sort of embankment runs along the shore at a distance of a few yards from the sea, and in the hollow behind it are situated the principal streets. There was no great crowd col-lected to watch our landing — foreigners were becoming a daily sight — and we were allowed to follow our inclinations in oiu choice of a line of exploration.

ASPKCT OF HOUSES. 811

A flight of Steps ascends the embankment, at the top of which is situated one of the official residences of the governor. This em-bankment, which is, in £eu^t, a sort of raised parterre, is of oonsid* erable width, and a broad street runs along its whole length. Crossing this, we reach the head of the flight of steps that descend into the town, which now lies at our feet The view is peculiarly striking, especially to the stranger who has just arrived from Giina. Instead of an indefinite congeries of houses built appar-ently on no settled plan, and so close together that the streets which divide them are completely concealed, we saw before us a wide, spacious street, about a mile in length, flanked by neat houses, generally of two stories, with tiled or wooden roo&, and broad eaves projecting over the lower story. A pave ran down the centre of the street, on each side of which it was carefully graveled to the gutters. No wheeled vehicle or beast of burden was, however, visible, but, in default, a plentiful sprinkling of foot-passengers gave it an air of life and animation. It termin-ated in the distance in a flight of steps, which soon disappeared amid the foliage of the hill side, crowned with a temple or tea-house, or gleaming with the whitewashed walls of some fireproof store-house.

As we traversed its entire length, no foul odors assailed our nostrils, or hideous cutaneous objects offended our eyesight ; nor did inconvenient waUs or envious shutters debar us from inspect-ing, as wo passed along, the internal economy of the shops and dwellings on each side. Light wooden screens, neatly papered, and running on slides, are for the most part pushed back in the daytime, and the passer looks through the house, to where the waving shrubs of a cool-looking back garden invite him to extend his investigations. Between the observer and this retreat there are probably one or two rooms, raised about two feet from the groond ; and upon the scrupulously clean and well-wadded mat-ting, which is stretched upon the wooden floor, semi-nude men and women loll and lounge, and their altogether nude progeny crawl and feast themselves luxuriously at ever-present fountains. The women seldom wear any thing above their waists, the men only a scanty loin-cloth. In the midday, during the summer, a general air of languor pervades the community : about sunset the world begins to wash, and the Japanese youth, like copper^ colored Cupidsi riot tumultuously.

312 SHOPS AT NAGASAKI

The shops do not genersQlj contain those articles in lacker and china ware for which Japan is so justly celebrated. To obtain them we must visit the Dutch or Bussian bassars; but our interest is kept alive by the varied productions of native manufacture ex-hibited in the shops, which are as open to the street as stalls at a fimcy-fair, and which contain all those articles which are in com-mon request among the people. Umbrella, fan, and shoe shops abounded ; bazars for toys and glass ornaments arrested us for a moment ; but time was precious, and we could not do more than glance cursorily at the novelties displayed, and vainly endeavor to comprehend the object of various processes and manu&ctares which were being industriously carried on, but the result of which, in defeult of an interpreter, remained a mystery. Indeed, except from the Dutch gentlemen at Decima, we found it difficult, during our short stay at Nagasaki, to obtain any information, as only one Japanese had picked up a very few words of English. All the in-terpreters spoke Dutch, a language of which my knowledge was extremely limited ; nor was it spoken by any of our party. Our rambles through Nagasaki, therefore, though in the highest d^ree amusing and attractive, possessed the one drawback of leaving the curiosity and interest they had excited at every turn unsatisfied. Nor could we gratify ourselves by making purchases of curiosities. As yet we had not been introduced to the government money-changers, who sat in solemn conclave at the Bussian bazar; and no consideration could induce a shopkeeper to accept the smallest or even the largest foreign coin. Well did he know that the eye of his neighbor was upon him, and that an official visit the next morning would remind him of his oblivion of that great national institution of universal espionage, which would with us be consid-ered an intolerable tyranny, but which the Japanese regard as a necessary ingredient to the welfare and protection of society.

We pursued our peregrinations through the streets of Naga-saki unmolested, and almost unnoticed by the people, who did not crowd the thoroughfares with busy, noisy clamor, as in China, but strolled carelessly along, apparently little troubled with occupa-tion, with an air of amiable contentment on their features, and an expression of kindly good-nature toward the curious, wonder-ing strangers. Although Ka^mpfer speaks of numerous b^gais, I did not observe any, with the exception of one or two religious mendicants. A stream, about the size of an ordinary canal, mtet-

PLAN OF THE CITY. 818

nets the town in a lateral direction, and is spanned by thirty or forty bridges, of which about fifteen are solidly constructed of stone, with handsonib balustrades. Balconies, filled with women engaged in domestic avocations, overhang the water ; smaU boats plj upon its surface; and hero and there the quaint old but-tresses of the bridges are partly concealed with creeping plants, and across them numerous passengers pass and repass. It is in-teresting to stand on one of these and watch the humors of the place, while we enjoy the picturesque view which it affords.

Nagasaki contains upward of eighty streets crossing each other at right angles, and from three quarters of a mile to a mile in length. Its population is estimated at about 60,000 ; but it pre-sents a far more imposing appearance, and covers a much greater area of ground than a Chinese city of the same dimensions. Its outskirts run up into the secluded valleys formed by the sur-roonding hills, the spurs of which descend into the town, so that almost every street terminates in a flight of stone steps ; and, in-deed, some of them, which we visited afterward, climb the hill sides, the houses being built one above the other, as at Malta.

We terminated our first day^s explorations of Nagasaki by a second visit to Decima, for the purpose of seeing the Dutch bazar. Crossing the moat which separates the factory from the town and makes an island of it, we pass through the gateway, under which, b a sanctum of their own, sit three or four officials, called by the Dutch '^banjos," whose business it is to inspect narrowly every penon seeking ingress and egress, and every article or package which is carried in or out In former times these janitors were in a most responsible position, and their functions were regarded by the Japanese government as of the utmost importance. Now, however, the recent relaxations with reference to foreigners have diminished the cares of office ; and these dreaded custodii, so long the bugbears of the Dutch employes at Decima, will soon cease to exist, or dwindle into respectable sinecurists.

It was late ere, utterly exhausted by the interest and excite-ment of our first day in Japan, wo sought our floating home.

814 liUSSIONABT SUCCESS OF ZAVIEB.

CHAPTER 22.

CHAPTER XXn.

Miflsicnary Sacoess of Xavier. — Sapemataral Gifts. — ^Heroism of Japanese Conrerts. — ^Theological Argamentg of Conyerts : their Objections to etenial PaniduneiL— Louis Almeyda. — ^The Prince of Omura. — His ConTereion. — ^Foanding of Nagi-saki. — Conrenion of Princes. — ^Fate of Nagasaki. — Death of Snmitanda.— Con-stitution of the Japanese Goyemment. — ^The two Emperors. — ^Taiko-sams.— Per-secution of Christians. — Projects of Taiko-sanui : his Invasion of .the Core&.~Nt^ gasaki annexed by the Zipgoon. — ^William Adams. — ^British Factoiy in J^isil— Japanese political Economists. — Intrigues of the Dutch. — ^Expulsion of the Pom-guese. — Establishment of Decima.

Nagasaki was not in former times, as it is now, one of die im-perial demesnes, or lands appertaining to the crown. It becaioe so in consequence of a series of events over which it may not be uninteresting to cast a retrospective glance, as possessing some historical importance, and as illustrating the internal political con* dition of a portion of Japan to which the earliest associatioDS of foreigners are attached, and which may convey some idea of the working of that system of government which still prevails in ^^ empiife.

The first intercourse which the Japanese held with foreigneis was of a character which induced them to form the highest opin-ion of the advantages which were to be derived from the cultiva-tion of relations with a race so far advanced in civilization, and under the influence of a religion of an elevating and apparently harmless tendency. The zeal and attainments of the sainted Xfl-vier, and that band of devoted missionaries who immediately suc-ceeded him, produced a revolution in the religious sentiments of a large and influential section of the community. The histoiy of the acts of these first apostles of the Christian faith, as described in the works of P6res Bouhours, de Charlevoix, Marini, Fioes, and others, though written, doubtless, under an inspiration not always to be depended upon, is a striking evidence of thfe influ-ence which the Christian religion, under whatever form it is in-troduced, is calculated to produce upon minds which have been beforehand sufficiently cultivated and civilized to appreciate its merits. As in the Boman world, its ennobling doctrines seized hold of the minds of educated men, and gradually expelled the

SUPEBNATUBAL OIFra 815

philosophies and creeds ^^hich had heretofore satisfied them ; so did it commend itself to the refined and intellectual Japanese, spreading with a rapidity second only to that which marked its progress in the apostolic ages.

If we are to believe the records of these later £Eithers of the Church, who have recorded the history of the first missionaiy efibrts in Japan, that sapematural aid was not withheld which contributed so lai^ely to the success of the first propagators of Christianity in the West : Xavier is stated to have been endowed with the gift of tongues, and to have preached eloquently in Co-rean, Lcwchew, Chinese, and Japanese, without ever having stud-ied a word of those extremely complicated languages. His biogra-phers record hundreds of miraculous conversions ; and according to P^re Charlevoix,* he restored a dead girl to life under circum-stauoes which utterly confounded his enemies the bonzes, who, like the Pharisees of old, dogged his footsteps, and exerted all their energies in vain to counteract his daily increasing influence, and by secret intrigues and open arguments to destroy him and confute his doctrines.

Whatever may have been the means of proscljrtism which he employed, of the marvelous results there can be no doubt ; and it is worthy of the attention of those interested in the conversion of the heathen to consider how far the success which attend^ their efforts may depend upon the nature and amount of the cultivation which the soil has received before the seed is sown. There can be DO doubt that the imaginative Japanese, hearing of Christianity for the first time, would receive it in a very ditferent spirit from an untamed New Zealander or a calmly-skeptical Chinaman. Nor was the faith thus implanted in the breasts of some hundreds of thousands of converts a mere nominal creed, to be swept away by the first wave of persecution. It not only furnished them wiUi courage, but with arguments with which to meet their persecu-torn The answer of a neophyte who was asked how he would respond to his sovereign if ordered to abjure Christianity, is thus recorded : " Sire, would you wish me to remain faithful, and ever to preserve that submission which it is seemly for a subject to ftel toward his king? would you wish me to manifest zeal for your service on all occasions on which I can be of use, so that no private interest should cause mo to forget what I owe you 7 would

« Pin d$ Charkvoix, foL il, p. 42.

316 THEOLCXJICAL AEGUMENTS OF CONVERTS:

you wisli me to be meek, temperate, and loving, full of charity toward my equals — that J should patiently suffer all the ill treat-ment to which I may be exposed? command me then to remain a Christian, for it is &om a Christian alone that all this can be reasonably expected."

The early records of the Church do not afford instances of more unflinching heroism then is furnished in the narratives of thoee martyrdoms to which Japanese of all ranks were subjected when the day of trial came. Thousands were slaughtered at Simabarni, thousands more tormented and put to death in cold blood, or roll* ed down the Pappenberg ; yet we have reason to believe that the last spark has never yet been extinguished, and that^ smouldering secretly, the fire of Fran§ois Xavier still bums in the bosOTas of some of those who have received the traditions of his teachiog. It is to be regretted that the inordinate love of political power which characterizes the disciples of Loyola should have led the successors of the first missionaries into intrigues which terminated so disastrously for themselves and their creed, for thereby they have closed Japan to those Protestant missionary efforts whidi the government of that empire are now firmly resolved on re-sisting.

Believing that Christianity, whether Catholic or Protestant^ is but an excuse for the secret acquisition of political influence, thej regard with equal dislike and suspicion the missionaries of either creed ; nor does it seem probable at present, at all events, that op-portunities will be afforded us of teaching them the difference. That they would have little difficulty in appreciating it, so fiu* as their intelligence is concerned, were any exposition on the subject permitted, there can be no doubt.

We have the record of a treatise published by the Japanese neophytes proving the superiority of the Christian reUgion over that of the sects of Japan, while the arguments with which they met at the outset the teaching of Xavier prove how competent they were intellectually to detect the mysteries of the religion he promulgated. " One thing," says his biographer, " neverthdeas arrested the progress of the evangelist It was difficult to prove to the Japanese that thoee who, during their lives, had not wor-shiped the true God, would be consigned to everlasting fire in helL They could not reconcile this article of faith with the infinite good* ness of God. * If the incarnate Word,' said they, * died for all, why

THEIR OBJECTIONS TO ETERNAL PUNISHMENT. 817

Bhoold not His death profit all ? If He condemns to eternal pun-ishment all thofle who are not obedient to His law, why has he de-layed the announcement of it to us daring more than 1500 years 7' The bonzes did not fail to support these objections, and added * that the priests of the Christians were good for nothing, since they had not the power of drawing one single soul out of hell, whereas this they themselves accomplished every day by the mer-it of their fasts and prayers ; that this God must be cither very cnicl in not being willing to put an end to the punishment of the damned, or very impotent in not being abk to do it' "

** The Japanese love tenderly all who are related to them by ties of blood, and the memory of their ancestors is dear and pre-cious to them. They could not be content to regard them as rep-robates. ' What I' cried they, bursting into tears, ' our fEtthcrs, our children, our relations, our friends — must they remain during all eternity the unfortunate victims and the objects of vengeance of a God whom they would without doubt have adored if they had IcnownHim? and this great God, who is represented to us as good-ness and equity itself, will He have no regard to their ignorance ?' They melted into tears while speaking thus ; the whole place re-sounded with their sobs and with their cries, which so touching a thooght made them send up to heaven ; and the missionaries could not help mingling their tears with those of their neophytes."

The tears of their teachers must, however, have been but a poor cooaolation to these unhappy Japanese, who would at once have appreciated the practical distinction in favor of a creed which gave them the benefit of the doubt upon so momentous a subject

It must not be supposed that the Jesuits confined themselves to the propagation of Uieir faith alone : to the exertions of Louis Al-meyda, a Portuguese gentleman of singular energy and tact, and vho joined the order in Japan, is owing the successful establish-ment of the greater number of those Portuguese colonies of which Nagasaki became ultimately the most celebrated, and the political importance of which was the first indication that the emperor le-oeived of the growing ambition of the Portuguese.

When first Louis Almeyda paid a round of visits to the kings and princes of the island of Kiusiu, those high dignitaries almost qoarreled for the honor of his acquaintance, and rivaled each oth-er in their ardor to induce him to form establishments in their divers petty kingdoms. He succeeded even in persuading some

S18 THE PRINCE OF OMURA :

of these princes to embrace Christianit j : those who were indiffer-ent or opposed to it he conciliated, and gained the friendship of the bonzes themselves, some of whom, upon one occasion, applied to be baptized, and were only refused upon the ground of the ob-ligation imder which they lay to take part in the funeral obsequies of their prince in the event of his death, in accordance with the religion of their country.

But the conversion which was fraught with the most serious con-sequences to Christianity in Japan, and the ultimate &te of the Portuguese colonies there, was that of the Prince of Omura, which was made in the year 1562. Though only a state of the province of Fizen, and in some sort in vassalage to his brother the King of Arima, Sumitanda, the Prince of Omura, who had never taken the title of king, was a man of great power and influence, and of an advanced and enlightened mind. His perusal of some of the Jes-uit works, and his ready and instinctive appreciation of the ad-vantages which might be derived from the introduction of the Portuguese into his principality, induced him to make overtures to Almeyda, who was then at Firando, inviting him to forai an establishment in Omura. Notwithstanding the efforts made by the King of Firando to frustrate the project of his rival, Sumitanda had the satisfaction shortly after of welcoming Almeyda to his country, and establishing him in the port of Yocotsura, of which he made a concession to the Portuguese.

The Jesuit establishment proved an attraction to the ChiistiaDS in the neighboring province, while the commencement of an act-ive commerce soon raised the little collection of cottages, which originally formed the town, to the dignity of an active and bus-tling mercantile emporium. Meantime the ecclesiastical superiois of the establishment devoted themselves to the conversion of the prince, a task in which they apparently found no great difficulty. He is said to have met them with these words: "I am come here, my fathers, to hear your discourse on your religion. Con-sider, I beseech you, my heart as ground well prepared ; do not fear to sow in it the seed of the Divine word. I trust that, under the blessing of Heaven, it may bring forth fruit Moreover, my intention is not to limit its fruits to myself alone ; I hope to extend them to all my subjects."

The result, as may be anticipated, of the teaching of the mis-sionaries on a mind so disposed, was the declaration of his adhe-

I

ms CONVEBSION.— FOUNDING OF NA0A8AKL 819

oon to the tenets of Christianity. One obstacle alone remained to the public profession of his faith. Sumitanda was childless, and he feared that so decided a step might involve his principali-ty, 80 long as his throne was without a successor, in trouble. lie therefore, for the present, contented himself with wearing a cross upon his bosom, and, thus attired, appeared at the court of his relative, the King of Arima, and announced his intention of be-oonuDg a Christian as soon as he should be blessed with a son and heir. The result of the visit was to induce the King of Ari-ma to send for the ever-active Almeyda, who proceeded to form establishments at various points in his dominions. Meantime the Prince of Omura was zealously forwarding the cause of pros-dytism in his own states, and destroying the temples and idols with which they abounded.

It was not without serious opposition ibat Sumitanda thus warmly seconded the efforts of the missionaries. The Buddhist and Sintoo priesthood, finding their religion thus violently attack-ed by the highest authority, perceiving that their influence was daily lessening, and their office becoming discredited in the eyes of the people, entered into a conspiracy, at the head of which they placed the illegitimate son of the former prince. This was join-ed by many of the councilors of state, who still remained true to their heathen worship. Their first act was to destroy the palace and greater part of the town of Omura by fire, and to proclaim the usurper prince ; they then marched upon the obnoxious Por-tuguese colony and Jesuit settlement of Vocotsura, and succeeded in reducing it also to ashes. Sumitanda, however, was not dis-oooraged by these reverses, and, gathering about him those who stiU remained faithful to his cause, he marched on the insurgents, whom he utterly routed and defeated in a pitched battle with great slaughter, taking prisoner and decapitating their leader.

9iortly after this Sumitanda received a letter from the King of Portugal, congratulating him upon his conversion to Christian-ity, and swearing eternal friendship. In 1569 he formed the project of building a church at a spot in his dominions then call-ed Fucaye, or Long Bay, now known as Nagasaki. This latter name w said to have been that by which the district was origi-nally known, when the property of a family of Japanese nobility, to whom it belonged previous to its annexation to the principal-itv of Omura. Be that as it may, Nagasaki soon rose into a

320 CONVERSION OF PRINCES.— FATE OF NAGASAKL

thriving city : its advantages of situation, superior to those of any other port on the coast, attracted a laige community of Portu-guese, and it quickly became the centre of great conmiercial act-ivity. Meantime the Prince of Omura, waxing stronger in the faith, and more learned in the doctrines of Christianity, beheving that inasmuch as " he that provideth not for them of his own household hath denied the faith, and is worse than an infidels-considering &rther, that a prince ought to be to his subjects what a father is to his family, and that he would be responsible for the safety of those who died in unbelief — decided on all his sub-jects becoming Christian, and, collecting the chief families of his state, received with them the right of baptism.

Hitherto we have followed exclusively the fortunes of Sumi-tanda. Prince of Omura, not only as being the most interesting and enlightened of the royal converts who abounded in those days, but as the founder of the settlement destined to become cel-ebrated on account of the singular position it has since held among the mercantile emporia of the world. It would be a tedious and somewhat xmprofitable task to follow the Jesuit fathers in their prolix accounts of the progress of Christianity in all the different principalities into wnich it was introduced, to narrate the wars between the Princes of Bungo and Firando, to follow the tortuous policy of the King of Arima, or recount at length the extraordinary conversion of his highness of Gotto. Still more difficult would it be, btit more interesting withal, to ac-company the devoted Father Yilela on his mission into the inte-rior, and become involved under his guidance, at Miako or Ximo, in those never-ending intrigues which characterized the imperial court in those days. Father Yilela, more ambitious than his predecessors and colleagues, devoted himself to the conversion of the highest dignitaries of the realm, and, engaging deeply in the political complications, which at that time were working out great changes in the government of the country, hoped to reap for the faith which he promulgated those temporal advantages upon the possession of which he relied for its ultimate triumph.

It may be necessary, before leaving Japan, to revert cursorily to some other of the more important episodes in its history ; but, in the mean time, the fate of Nagasaki and its prince more imme-diately claims our attention. In 1679, the persecutions which overtook the Christians in some of the neighboring principalities, whose rulers were bitterly hostile to a faith the aggressive charac-

DEATH OF SUMTTANDA. 821

ter of which thej had begun to suspect, induced the Portuguese at Nagasaki to prepare for any contingency which might arise in the event of the death of the faithful Sumitanda, by fortifying the city. This was done, and batteries were erected, more especially for the purpose of securing the ships which might be in the har-bor. The death of the Christian King of Gotto about this time, and the revolution which succeeded in his state, drove many of bis converted subjects to seek a refuge at Nagasaki. About five years after this, the King of Bungo, who had become a convert, the King of Arima, and the Prince of Omura, decided on sending a mission to Some, consisting of four Japanese of the highest rank, and related to the princes they went to represent These enyoys were most graciously received by his holiness, to whom ihcj presented the letters of which they were the bearers, and whidi, as they were in all probability written for them by the fathers, are scarcely worth insertion. The heading of the King of Bungo's is as follows : " A celui qui doit ^tre ador^, et qui tient la place da Koi du Ciel, lo grand et tr^ Saint Pape.'' That of the Prince of Omura, ** Lcs mains 61ev6s vers le Ciel, et dans les sentiments d^une veneration profonde j^oclore le trds Saint Pape, qai tient la place de Dieu sur la terre, et lui presente humblement octte lettre.*'

These epistles were cordially responded to by Pope Sixtus V., and, after making a tour of Italy and part of Spain, the Japanese mbasBadors returned to their country highly delighted with their Western experiences. In 1587, Sumitanda, Prince of Omuns died, to the great grief of all who had at heart the cause of Chris-tianitj. He was, however, consoled during his last moments by the reflection that in the long-wished-for son, whose tardy appear-ance in the world had, it may be remembered, deferred his bap* tism, he left behind him a worthy successor. Notwithstanding the good intentions of the young prince, and the zeal of his sub-jects, and many of the most influential among the neighboring {(rinces, misfortunes now began to overtake the Christians; and the first of that series of events occurred which ultimately drove the Jesuits from Japan, and extinguished the faith they had la-bfired flo diligently to propagate. That we may, however, appre-ciate the position of the Christians at this epoch, it is necessary to explain in a few words the conditions under which the affiurs of tbe empire were being administered.

X

322 CONSTITUTION OF THE JAPANESE GOVERNB<IENT.

In order to understand the system under which Japan is at present governed, it is scarcely needful to go back in our investi-gations to the reigns of the five god-men who between them ruled its destinies for 2,342,467 years, and whose successors were all more or less mythological or legendary characters. In the year 660 B.C., that dieocratic form of government came into existcDoe which still remains under altered conditions, and constitates so singular a feature in the history of this people. CJombined with an ecclesiastical hereditary authority of a very remarkable char- ' acter, the Mikado in former times united theoretically in his own person an absolute and unlimited authority over those numerous feudal princes whose territories composed his empire. It could scarcely be expected that the prestige attending the sacred func-tions with which he was invested, and the despotic power which he exercised, would prove sufficient in themselves to check the ambitious designs of those feudal chiefs who, more enterprising and less submissive to spiritual despotism than their fellows, were tempted to make war upon each other, or even cope with the im-perial forces. This state of affairs reached its climax about the middle of the twelfth ctntury ; and so serious had it become, that it was found necessary to intrust the entire command of the amy to a generalissimo, who assumed the title of Ziogoon. The first ziogoon was a young man, by name Yoritomo, celebrated in the annals of Japan as the founder of that series of subordinate em-perors, who, after dividing for a short time the temporal power with the Mikado or spiritual emperor, ultimately retained exclusive possession of it, and who are now, in their turn, being slowly squeezed out of this mundane sphere by the CJouncil of State, who do virtually control the destinies of the country. As the two emperors are called by a variety of names, it may be as well, to avoid confusion, to specify them.

The proper appellation of the spiritual emperor is Mikado, but he is also frequently called Dairi, which means court or palace, and is an abbreviation of Dairi-Sama, or Lord of the Palace. In time of war the temporal emperor is called Ziogoon, or Generalissimo: in time of peace. Tycoon, or Koboe. The term emperor, as ap-plied to this dignitary, is one to which the Japanese espedally ob-ject, though they do not deny that in him is nominally vested the supreme temporal power.

One of the ziogoons of Japan, in the days of the early &thcr8»

TAIKO-SAMA. 82S

was a certain Nobanunga, originally King of Mino and Yoarif smd who, bj his determined energy and daring, acquired the tem-poral dignity. NominaUy the throne of the tycoons is hereditaiy ; but the history of its occupants tells the usual story of violence, intrigue, and blood.

Under the influence of Fathers Yilela and Yalegnani, the fierce and haughty Nobanunga was induced to regard with a tolerant, if not absolutely favorable eye, the religion of the West, and dur-ing his reign it attained its most flourishing condition. In his answer to the bonzes, as recorded by Don Bodrigo de Yivero y Yelasco, who was shipwrecked there some years afterward, he dis-played a freedom from religious bigotry rarely to be met with in civilized countries at that period. *' The bonzes of all the sects having concurred in a request to the emperor that he would ex-pel our monks from Japan, the prince, troubled with their impor-tunities, inquired how many difiercnt religions there were in Jap-an ? * Thirty-five,' was the reply. * Well,' said he, * where thir^ ty-five sects can be tolerated, we can easily bear with thirty-six: leave the strangers in peace.' " This prince fell a victim, in the year 1582, to one of his own generals, who, at the head of an army placed under his command by Nobanunga, besieged that monarch in his palace, and ultimately consumed it by fire, burying in its ashes the unfortunate Koboe and his eldest son.

His death was the signal for a struggle for the vacant throne. After five years of anarchy, during three of which it was held by Fide Noba, it was seized by the celebrated Faxiba, or Taiko-Sama, a nuui whose early occupation it had been to cut wood in the for-est, and carry it on his shoulders to the town, but who, being orig-inally introduced into the palace of Nobanunga in a menial capac-ity, was discovered by that penetrating commander to be the pos-senor of great qualities, rapidly advanced under his favor to the chief command of his army, and finally acquired his throne under the pretext of preserving it for the grandson of his benefactor.

Taiko-Sama (for this was the name which he subsequently adopted, and which means " most exalted and sovereign lord") was unquestionably the most remarkable man who ever filled the throne of the ziogoons. Of inordinate ambition, he combined great originality of conception with energy and skill in the exe-cation of his daring projects. Fortifying himself by an alliance with the spiritual throne by his marriage with the daughter of

324 PERSECUTION OF CHRISTIANS.

the Mikado, whose indifference to sublunary affairs does not ex-tend to his domestic relations, Taiko-Sama ruled the empire with a hand of iron. The condition of the empire at this time, and the change effected in it by this ztogoon, are thus noticed by Kaem-pfer : *' The ambition and insolence of the princes of the empire was successively grown to such a height, that at last it became al-most impossible for the ecclesiastical emperors to restrain and con-trol them. In vain did they, for four ages together, send the crown generals against them, at the head of numerous armies. And yet this great work was brought about by Taiko in about ten years' time, not so much, indeed, by force of arms, as by his prudent conduct and good management." At first he professed great regard for the missionaries and respect for their religion, but the result of his observations, made during a tour through the western and most Christian portion of his dominions, induced him to alter his opinion, and issue an edict for the expulsion of eveiy missionary from the empire. This order was received with gen* eral dissatisfaction and remonstrance from the kings of Aiima and Omura, which only increased the irritation of the emperor, who determined upon depriving the Prince of Omura of the port of Nagasaki, and taking possession of it for his own use.

The fortifications were consequently destroyed, some of tie churches demolished, and the town itself only ransomed at a laige price by the Prince of Omura, who was allowed to retain it Meantime the missionaries concealed themselves in the palaces and cities of their converts, determined not to relinquish without a struggle a field in which their labors had been crowned with such an abundant measure of success. For some time Taiko ap-pears to have been too much engaged with his various projects to care to enforce compliance with an edict which may possibly have been promulgated in a moment of irritation. His general success afterward may have rendered him amiable. Be that as it may, the missionaries speedily emerged from their hiding-places, and resumed their efforts with redoubled energy ; while Uic ar-rival of the embassadors who had been to Home, under the guid* ance of Father Yalegnani, with the pontifical letters, was a most seasonable diversion in their favor. The journey to Miako was a sort of triumphal progress ; their reception at the capital an ova-tion. At their audience with the Ziogoon it is recorded that th^ were dressed like Italians, in black velvet, and speedily succeeded

PBOJECTS OF TAIKO-SAMA. 825

in creating an interest in the narration of their adventures, and conciliating the good- will of their sovereign. Shortly after this these four Japanese nobles entered the Order of Jesus« Mean-time the Governor of Nagasaki and his colleague occupied them-■elveet, according to the Jesuit historian, in prejudicing the mind of the Ziogoon against the Christians, and so &r succeeded as to induce him again to threaten them with expulsion. Ilis answer to the letter brought to him by Father Yalegnani from the Portu-guese Viceroy of Goa is interesting and characteristic. After re-capitulating at some length the success with which the execution of his projects had been uniformly attended, and the flourishing condition of the Empire of Japan in consequence, Taiko-Sama goes on to say :

*' This vast monarchy is like an immovable rock, and all the ef-forts of its enemies will not be able to shake it Thus not only am I at peace at home, but persons come even from the most dis-tant countries to render me that homage which is my due. Just now I am projecting the subjugation of China; and as I have no doubt that I shall succeed in this design, I trust that we shall soon be much nearer to each other, and that communication will be much easier between us. As to that which regards religion, Jap-an is the kingdom of the Kamis, that is to say, of Xim, which is the principle of every thing. The welfare of the government, vhich has been established from the commencement, depends upon the careful observance of those laws upon which it is found-ed, and which have the Kamis themselves for their authors. We can not depart from them without perceiving the difference which subsists between sovereign and subjects disappear, as well as that subordination of women to their husbands, children to their par-ents, vassals to their lords, servants to their masters. In a word, these laws arc necessary for the maintenance of order within and of tranquillity without The lathers who are called of the com-pany (of Jesus) are come into these islands to teach another relig-ion ; but as that of the Kamis is too well established to be abol-ished, this new law can only serve to introduce into Japan a di-versity of religion prejudicial to the welfare of the state. That is why I have prohibited, by imperial edict, these foreign dtwtors from continuing to preach their doctrine. I have even ordered them to leave Japan, and I am resolved no longer to allow per-sons to come hero to * debits new opinions. I desire, noverthe-

826 TAIEO^SAMA'S INVASION OF THE COREA.

less, that our comnlercial relations sball remain upon the same footing between ns. The Portuguese shall be allowed to oonunu-nicate fireelj with my subjects, and I will permit no one to do them any injury."

In pursuance of his scheme for the subjugation of China, to which Taiko-Sama makes such an offhand allusion in the aboye epistle, he fitted out four armies, three of which he sent to the Gorea, where they gained two victories, seized the capital, droye the king from his throne into China, of which empire he was a tributary, and spread consternation far and wide. A Chinese army was^ however, speedily dispatched to the Corea, and after sundry bloody engagements the war was terminated by mutual consent, Corean embassadors being sent to treat with Taiko-Sama, who ultimately agreed to the following conditions: 1st That of the eight provinces of which the Corea is composed, five should be-long to the Japanese ; 2d. That the Emperor of China should giye one of his daughters in marriage to the Emperor of Japan; Sd. That the commerce which had been for so long interrupted be-tween China and Japan should be re-established ; 4th. That the Emperor of China should pay an annual tribute to the crown of Japan as a recognition of the superiority of the latter potentate.

According to Kddmpfer, it was about three years after this, ot about 1596, that the emperor finally deprived the Prince of Omu-ra of Nagasaki, and annexed it as an imperial city to his domin* ions. The Jesuit fiithers are wonderfully silent upon his motive for this proceeding, but the Dutch historian states it to have been in consequence of the insolent behavior of a priest to one of the councilors of state whom he met in the street Whatever may have been the immediate cause, there can be no doubt that the position of the Portuguese at Nagasaki was becoming so consoli-dated as somewhat to menace the integrity of the empire, a £ict which simdiy emissaries, who were sent at different times €tom the Philippines to maintain relations between the Spanish govern-ment and the Emperor of Japan, were not slow to point out to that high personage. Indeed, the intrigues of the Spaniards^ in their efforts to dislodge their rivals, form a fertile and rather tire-some theme with the old Jesuit chroniclers.

The rivalry of the Spaniards and Portuguese was religious rath-er than commercial, and it was not imtil the year 1699 that the arrival of the Dutch in Japan imported into the foreign idaticHis

WILLIAM ADAMS. 327

of that empire a new element In the mean time hostilities had recommenced in the Corea, which had ultimatelj resulted in the withdrawal of the Japanese troops from that province, and the death of the redoubtable Taiko-Sama removed any fiirther cause of alarm from the breast of his Celestial majesty.

On the accession of his successor Ogosho-Sama to the throne, both Spaniards and Portuguese redoubled their intrigues against each other, and their combined machinations against the Dutch. They made little impression, however, upon the enlightened and libeil-minded moi. wh!, denied 'thcright of Ij power to dictate the policy ho should pursue in regard to strangers visiting liis dominions, maintaining Uiat all he cared for was the tranquil-lity of his country and the welfare of his people ; and that, so long as strangers paid obedience to the laws, and by their fiedr and hon-orable dealings promoted the convenience and enjoyment of his subjects, it mattered not to him to what nation they belonged, or to what power in the West they were nominally subject On the last occasion when a joint memorial was presented on the subject by the Spaniards and Portuguese, Ogosho seems to have lost all patience, and he drove the remonstrants ignominiously from his presence, vehemently declaring that if " devils from hell were to visit his realm, they should be treated like angels from heaven," «o long as they conducted themselves conformably with the prin-ciples he had laid down.*

To Englishmen, the associations connected with this sovereign are particularly interestbg ; for our countryman William Adams, who had piloted the first Dutch ship to Japan, and who was the first Englishman who had reached that empire, attracted the fa-vorable notice of Ogosho-Sama to so great an extent that he in* Rsted upon his fairly entering his service — a fiust which William Adams thus devoutly alludes to : '' Now for my service, which I have doen and daily doe, beinir employed in the emperor^s serv-ice, he hath given me a living like anto a lordship in England, with cightie or nintie husbandmen, that be as my slaves or serv-ants; which or the like precedent was never here before given to any stranger. Thus God hath provided for mee after my great mtserie, and to Him only be all honnor and praise, power and glory, both now and forever, worlde without ende."

Honest Adams proved that he was a Christian in practice as

\

328 JAPANESE POLITICAL ECONOMISTS.

well as in profession ; for, in spite of the malignant aspeisions which were thrown upon him and his country by Spaniards, Por-tuguese, and Dutch, who all yelled in common chorus at an inter-loper, he increased in influence and weight at court — " at which my former enemies did wonder, and at this time must entreat me to do them a friendship, which to both Spaniards and Portingals have I doen, recompensing them good for evill."

A few years after this, in 1613, Captain Saris arrived in Japan in command of the Clove, bearing a letter from King James the First to the Emperor of Japan, and, through the instrumentality of Adams, negotiated a most favorable treaty with Ogosho-Samn. We established a factory at Firando in consequence. It only ex-isted for ten years, however ; the bitter animosity of the Datch, and the unscrupulous means they are said to have resorted to, to obstruct our trade, combined with the absence of any adequate demand for our productions, and our ignorance of the resources of the country with which we had opened relations, led to the abandonment of the enterprise after about £40,000 had been ^)ent upon it

Meantime both Portuguese and Dutch were driving a lucratiYe trade; the former especially had derived enormous profits from their exports of gold and silver from Japan — ^so much so that Kasmpfer remarks, '*It is believed that, had the Portuguese en-joyed the trade to Japan but twenty years longer, upon the same foot as they did for some time, such riches would have been trans-ported out of this Ophir to Macao, and there would have been such a plenty and flow of gold and silver in that town, as sacred writs mention there was at Jerusalem in the times of Solomon." One of their own political economists, writing subsequently, comphuns of this. " I compute," he says,* " the annual exportation of gold at 150,000 kobans, so that in ten years this empire is drained of fift;een hundred thousand kobans, equal to about £2,500,000. With the exception of medicines, we can dispense with every thing that is brought us from abroad. The stufib and other for-eign commodities are of no real beneflt to us. All the gold, sil* ver, and copper extracted fix)m the mines during the reign of OgoshO'Sama, and since his time, is gone, and, what is still mor^ to be regretted, for things we could do well without."

* From a treatue composed in 1708 hy tho prime minister of the Emperor IksDOA Yosi, qaoted hy Tiuingh in the ^'ninstratlons of Japan.'*

EXPULSION OF THE PORTUGUESE. 329

We have no reason, however, for supposing that eonsiderations of political economy entered into the policy of the emperor when he determined on the expulsion of the Portuguese from his do-minions, and the toleration of the Dutch only under restrictions of the most humiliating character.

We have had evidence sufficient of the liberal and tolerant dis-position of successive Japanese monarchs upon the subject of for-eigners to assume that, had the latter confined themselves to mer-cantile operations, that generous hospitality would still have been accorded to them which distinguished the Japanese in their earlier intercourse with strangers.

It is scarcely necessary to enter here upon a discussion of the immediate cause which led to the expulsion of the Portuguese and extermination of the Christians. It forms a subject of much Tehement recrimination between the Jesuit fathers and early Dutch chroniclers. According to Ksempfer, letters were inter-cepted by the Dutch, revealing a conspiracy in which the Japan-ese Christians had engaged, in conjunction with the Portuguese, against the emperor's life and throne. According to Pi^re Charle-voix, these letters were forged by the Dutch for the purpose of giving color to the malicious libels which the latter were invent-ing against their rivals. Ilowevcr that may be, these two enlight-ened Western powers succeeded between them in causing the name of Christ to bo hated and despised, and in hermetically seal-bg np for two centuries a rich and productive country, inhabit-ed by one of the most amiable and civilized races in the world. The following proclamation was the result of the miserable tri-umph achieved by the Dutch over their competitors: "No Jap-aoeae ship or. boat whatever, nor any native of Japan, shall pre-some to go out of the country ; who acta contrary to this shall die, and the ship, with the crew and goods on board, shall be se-qnestered until &rther orders. All Japanese who return from abroad shall be put to death. Whoever discovers a priest shall have a reward of from four to five hundred shuets (equal to the aamc number of pouifds) of silver, and for every Christian in pro-portion« All persons who propagate the doctrine of the Chris-tiana, or bear this scandalous name, shall be imprisoned in the ooera, or oonmion jail of the town. The whole race of the Por-tuguese, with their mothers, nurses, and whatever belongs to them, shall be banished to Macao. Whoever presumes to bring a letter

880 INTRIGUES OF THE DUTCH.

from abroad, or to return after lie hath been banished, shall die, with all his family also : whoever presumes to intercede for them shall be put to death."

Then followed that frightful series of persecutions, not exceed-ed in horror or ingenuity of torment by those to which the early Christians were subjected ; and in carrying out their ruthless pol-icy against the Christians, the Japanese always found in the Dutch ready and willing assistants. These importunate traders lost no opportunity of insinuating themselves into the good graces of the islanders. They brought over the most exquisite objects of art and nature for annual presents, and demeaned themselves rather as willing slaves than as free burghers. When ordered to demol-ish their own warehouses and factories because they were biult of finer blocks of hewn stone than the buildings of the countiy, and were inscribed with the date of the Christian era, they did so with seeming satisfaction, and finally put a climax to their obedience by bombarding, at the behest of the Japanese government^ 87,000 Christians who were cooped up within the walls of Simabarra.

It was about this time, or in 1636, that Decima was founded. Since that period the Dutch have been confined to its limited area, and have consistently pursued the policy which had been in-augurated under such tragical circmnstances. During these last two hundred years they have not even had the profits -of a lu-crative trade to console them for the ignominy with which they have been treated ; on the contrary, it has steadily diminished in proportion as the indignities to which they have been exposed have increased, so that they have been glad, during these last few years, to make a merit of necessity, and profess an earnest deare to assist in promoting intercourse between the Japanese and other nations. Already their monopoly has disappeared. In the race which is about to ensue, their full-bosomed old craft will dn>p be-hind the horizon, and in ten years hence the Dutch trade with Japan will have become matter of history.

SURFEIT OF SENSATIONS. 281

CHAPTER 23.

CHAPTER XXllL

Svfeit of 8eiiMtkmt.->The Datch aad Rtusiaa B«ian.—MoiiC]r-difliigeii.— Tempt-ing bTMtmenti.— Visit from the Yice^goTeraor. — A Riding-tchooL— Surroand-iag CooDtiy.— A Visit to a Tea-garden.-— FeMting and Hnsic — Prodnctionfl of Fisea.— Coal Mines. — Prince of Sattnma.^^a|>anc8e Classes at Nagasaki — Blil-itaiy Organisation.—- A Gale of Wind. — Volcanic Eruptions.— Places of fatnre Paaishment. — A stormy Night. — ^ArriTal at Simoda. — ^Dangerous Harbor.

I FIND it difficult, in attempting to convey our first impressions of J^NUi, to avoid presenting a too highly-colored picture to the mind of the reader. The contrast with China was so striking, the evidences of a high state of civilization so unexpected, the circum-stances of our visit were so full of novelty and interest^ that wc abandoned ourselves to the excitement and enthusiasm they pro-duced There exists not a single disagreeable association to cloud oar leminiscences of that delightful country. Each day gave us fresh proo& of the amiable and generous character of the people among whom we wera Each moment of the day furnished us vith some new iact worthy of notice. Our powers of observation w«ie kept constantly on the stretch, but one felt they were over-taxed ; the time was too short ; sights and impressions crowded fQ each other with a painful rapidity and variety. It was like heing compelled to eat a whole ]xi(i defois gras at a sitting ; the dish was too rich and highly charged with truffles for one^s men-tal digestion. At the time it was delicious ; it is only afterward, when you try to arrange the facts and describe the experiences, that the inconvenience attending a surfeit of sensations of this sort makes itself felt

When wc landed at the factory early next morning we found it crowded with British purchasers, both at the Dutch and Rus-sian hazars ; lackered and china ware, bronzes and delicate basket-work, were arranged in tempting display. The beauty and ele-gance of all we saw delighted and astonished us : it was only when wc had " shopped" at Yedo that wo came to hold Nagasaki work-nianahip at a proper estimation, and to appreciate the difference between those articles which are manufactured and exhibited there for the European market, and those which are made for the Jap-

832 THE DUTCH AND BUSSIAN BAZARS.

anese themselves. As a rule, Nagasaki lacker is of a mosT infe-rior description; the shapes and patterns are nearly all of Dutch suggestion, and the mother-of-pearl with which they are so abund-antly and gorgeously inlaid is purely a Western invention. The egg-shell china is also manufactured for the European market: it is an exquisitely delicate fabric, made principally in the provinces of Fizen and Satsuraa, and not used by the Japanese themselves. We were not able to obtain any of the thinnest description at Yedo.

In bronzes the Japanese far excel the Chinese, the design and workmanship being infinitely superior. At Nagasaki, the result of intercourse with Europeans for two centuries and a half is very apparent. There were to be seen admirable telescopes d native manufacture, clocks, magnifying-glasses, and glass-ware of various descriptions, besides many imitations of European &briGS. The Bussian bazar, which was situated on the main land, is built like an Eastern caravanserai ; it is a paved square, surrounded with small wooden houses and verandas, full of articles for sale. At the entrance gateway are a certain number of officials, vho now take little heed of the visitor, and always appeared to me en-gaged in making servile obeisances to one another, and drinking very hot tea out of curiously-constructed steamers. The chief building in the square is devoted to the exchange of foreign mon-ey for Japanese paper currency.

In an up-stairs room, approached by a scrupulously clean stair case, on the upper step of which is a row of Japanese slippers, sit three or four grave two-sworded officials round a table on which are placed two boxes, one full of metallic, the other of paper cur-rency. It is useless to endeavor to persuade a Japanese shop-keeper to take a foreign coin, however large and tempting it may be. The government has forbidden him to receive any thing from the foreigner but the little oblong pieces of card which bear the government stamp ; so to this little room every foreigner is com-pelled to resort to obtain an available circulating medium. The currency between the foreigners and the tradespeople is tack mace, can, and cash: in name the same as in China, but represent-ing very different values, inasmuch as Japanese paper money L« granted by the treasury in exchange for Spanish and Mexican dollars at the rate of four taels seven mace per dollar.

Meantime there is a great crush of naval officers round the small

VISIT FROM THE YICE-GOVEBNOR. 883

tible, and the usual manifestation of impatience on the part of the Anglo-Saxon, but the Japanese lose neither ** count" nor '^coun* teoanoc.^' They maintain the affable imperturbability of croupiers at German gambling-tables. . They never make a mistake, nor cease to smile blandly ; and if we are in a hurry, we had better make up our minds to sit quietly on a bench near the window which overlooks the canal till our turn comes. We can watch the boats plying with heavy loads along it, and observe the fam-ily arrangements of the houses, with balconies overhanging it ; or we can look inward, and wonder at the extraordinary cleanliness uf the padded mat under our feet, and the inexhaustible patience of the money-changers, and moralize over the difference in the civilization and national characters of Englishmen and Japanese, and try whether Mr. Buckle's theory will account for them ; or we may look out of the opposite window into the yard, where an t-xtensive and lucrative business is being carried on by the Jap-anese licensed by the government to trade with Europeans. They are struggling manfully with the English language ; are inflex-ible as itegards price, not to be beaten down, and are almost as im-prtunatc and insinuating in their manner to the foreign young ^rentlemen as if it was a fancy bazar for a charitable purpose, and ihey were English young ladies and had stalls. Then there are "fficioos porters in readiness to carry away purchases ; but their fr'rrioes are rejected by independent middies, who prefer stagger-ing away under their own lacker, and all the while at the entrancc-pte reverential greetings are continually going on, and the imbib-ing of hot tea.

Bat we must not linger too long here, for the vice-governor is coming on board to lunch, and it is time for us to return to the »aip to receive him. Ue arrives seated in the bows of a stately barge, sorroonded by a number of attendants, and with numerous black and white flags fluttering from the stem. Ue is a plebeian-looking man, with an extremely smiling countenance and very short legs. They are incased in loose trowsers, not unlike knick-erliockers, of damask embroidery, of a pattern that would be con-«:derpd rather too gaudy for curtains. He bows repeatedly and npidly, and his two swords, like a double tail, cock up respons-iTcly. nis legs, below the knee, are neatly gaitercd, and his stockinged feet are thrust into straw sandals. Across his bosom are many folds of fine cotton, which compose his shirt, and over

S34 ^ BIDING-SCHOOL.

it a thin gauze tunic completes his costume. Luncheon has been prepared for him and some of his followers, and he is soon seated at Lord Elgin's right hand, drinking Champagne, and handling his knife and fork as if he usually lived in London. The other Japanese present seemed equally accustomed to Western man-ners. The vice-governor had been sent on the part of the gov-ernor to express his regret that illness prevented his seeing Lord Elgin, and at the same time to request that the yacht, which lie understood had been brought over as a present to the emperor, should be made over to the Japanese governor at Kagasald As Lord Elgin depended chiefly for an excuse for proceeding to Yedo upon the necessity of delivering the yacht, if possible, to the em-peror himself, he assured the governor that it was not in his poor-er to part with the yacht except at the capital. Finding that no arguments were of any avail to divert Lord Elgin firom this de-termination, the vice-governor gave up the matter as hopeless, and, after discoursing with considerable intelligence upon the recent treaty with China and other topics of interest, he took his leave. As Lord Elgin had not yet seen much of the town, I accom-panied him on shore on another tour of exploration. In the course of our walk we came to a large inclosure, and on entering it found fifteen or twenty men on horseback, galloping and curvet-ing about a considerable area, apparently used as a riding-school This we understood was the constant afternoon amusement of the " young bloods" of Nagasaki. They were all men of fortune and family, princes and nobles of the land, and this was their Bott^n Row. They rode fiery little steeds, averaging about fourteen hands in height, and took a delight in riding full gallop and pnll* ing up short, after the favorite manner of Arabs. The saddles were constructed on the same principle as they are in China, hut with less padding. The stirrup-leathers were short, and the stir-rups like huge slippers made of lacker. The bit was poweifol and the reins were of muslin, but strong notwithstanding. The most remarkable feature in the costume of the riders was their hats : these were like shields, almost perfectly flat, made of lacker, and fastened on the head by a variety of lashings. Two strings crossed each other at the back of the head, two crossed under the nose, and two more under the chin. It is as much trouble to tie on a Japanese hat as to put on a pair of skates ; and when it is done, the face looks all laced over, as if there was something sen-

8UBBOUin>INO COUNTBT. 885

DOS the matter with it. Still it is wonderful how effectual the lashing was, and how firmlj the flat roof, or rather " tile," seemed fixed on their heads.

When we appeared, two or three good-looking young men pull-ed up near us, jumped off their horses, and most good-naturedly preaaed them upon us. I took a short uncomfortable gallop upon^ one with a propensity to kick, and was glad soon to relinquish him to his smiling owner. We were much struck by the gentleman-like and unconstrained bearing of these young men, who evident-ly wished to show us all the civility in their power.

Before leaving Nagasaki we wished to extend our wanderings beyond the immediate limits of the streets. The city itself, like a lorer at the feet of his mistress, nestles at the base of wooded hills of exquisite form, as though it did not venture to profane with its coarse touch those lovely slopes which are dedicated to the wor-ship of Buddh and the Cy therean goddess, for these hill sides are dotted with the most enchanting sites, and every one of them is occupied with a temple or a tea-house.

In Japan, religion is not used, as in some countries, to conceal immondity, but rather to give it countenance and support, so that practically there is very little difference here between a temple tad a tea-house. Both are situated in grounds beautifully laid (•Qt In landscape-gardening the Japanese excel every other na-tion in the world. Both are resorted to as agreeable retreats from the turmoil and bustle of the city. The most delightful arbors, the choicest dishes, and the softest music, are provided equally at one and the other.

It is estiniated that there are sixty-two temples (large and small) and seven hundred and fifty tea-houses on the hills round Naga-Kiki« all offering to the Japanese in search of repose delicious tea v)d extensive panoramic views. It is worth while climbing up to some of them, if only to enjoy the latter. Old moss-grown .<tep8 ascend the steep hill side, and you pass through venerable gateways and up more massive flights to a fairy-like wooden 9tructore perched on a projecting point, and backed by terraced gardens and cool shady groves that lead to grottoes, where spark-ling water gushes from the hill side. The building seems con-structed with a view to the prospect it commands. The bare, ■oflly-matted rooms are surrounded with deep verandas, and from every angle a fresh scene of beauty meets the eye. Behind us are

836 ^ VISIT TO A TEA-GABDEN.

wooded dells, and more temples and tea-houses. At our feet the city is mapped out, and we can inspect the back premises of the houses of £imilies, who are all at this hour engaged in domestic ablutions. It is delightful to see papa, mamma, and all the chil-dren splashing so harmoniously in the back garden. Beyond the town are more terraced hills, and the beautiful winding harbor losing itself in deep creeks and bays, to all appearance a placid lake, for the ocean is nowhere visible.

Meantime the dinner, which has been ordered, has arrived. Spread out upon the floor in lackered bowls, it occupies the great-er portion of the room. It has been quickly and deftly arranged by a train of neatly dressed maidens, who now seat themselv© round it and invite us to partake. We have long since taken off our shoes, and now squat in a circle on the floor, and gaze with curiosity, not unmixed with alarm, at the display before us. There is raw fish thinly sliced, and salted ginger; there arc prawns piled up with a substance which in taste and appearance very much resembles toffy ; there are pickled eggs and rock-leeches, and pieces of gristle belonging to animals unknown, to be eaten with soy ; and yams and pears, and various sorts of fruits and vegetables, prepared some of them palatably enough ; but still the experiment is hazardous, and we are relieved at the sight of a bowl of rice as a safe piece de resistance.

The ministering spirits seem to delight in pressing upon us the nastiest things, apparently for the amusement which our wiy £ioes afford them. Presently another troop of damsels with lutes and tom-toms come tripping in ; but they elicit from their musical in-struments the most discordant sounds to our non-Japanese eais^ so that we are glad to take refuge in the balcony, and having once more feasted our eyes upon the fading prospect, we descend from our aiiy position to the streets, now rapidly subsiding into that early evening stillness which gives evidence that the good folb of Nagasaki do not allow either business or pleasure to steal from them the best hours of the night.

We should have regretted that our stay at Nagasaki was to be so short, had we not had^Yedo in prospect. We had scarcely an-ticipated, on our departure from Shanghai, so brilliant a pro-gramme as the one which was gradually unfolding itsel£ The arrival of the admiral in the Calcutta set any doubt we bad on the matter finally at rest It had been his original intention to hand

FBODUCnONS OF FIZEN. 887

oyer the yacht himself This, however, was now impossible, as his presence was urgently required at Canton, where the state of atbin was fiur from satisfactory. Under these circumstances, it was arranged that Lord Elgin should proceed with the yacht to Yedo, as it was evidently desirable that no time should be lost in [troceeding upon this mission. It was therefore impossible for us to attempt to go upon any of those expeditions into the country in the neighborhood of Nagasaki, which Europeans have lately been allowed to make. I understood that the princes of the neighboring territories of Fizen and Tsikuzen were both favor-My disposed toward Europeans. Fizen is indeed one of the most productive provinces in the empire, yielding a revenue to its prince amounting, it is said by Siebold, to £860,000 annually. Besides rice and various descriptions of gum, it produces tea, to-bacco, and cotton, vegetable tallow, iron, sulphur, cinnabar, and marble.

There is a coal mine at a place called Wuku Moto, in the inte-rior, which some of the Dutch mission have descended. They describe the mine as being well and judiciously worked, and the coal as bituminous in its nature, and made into coke for use.

Old Kaempfer tells a stoiy, by way of illustrating the volcanic oatore of the country, of a co«d mine in the province, which, through the carelessness of the miners, took fire, and has been baniing ever since. A very excellent description of porcelain clay 14 found here, and the European demand for egg-shell china, which M sold in great quantities, is chiefly supplied by the provinces of Fizen and Satsuma. The prince of the former state is, so far as we could learn firom our Dutch informants at Nagasaki, a man of 'A^Ierably advanced views ; he does not seem, however, to have ^Qcoeeded in thoroughly divesting himself of old prejudices. This was illustrated a short time prior to our visit by his refusal :o allow the Dutch to enter his territory to put up a steam-engine which he himself had oidered out from Europe to pump the wa-ter oat of one of his coal mines. It should be noticed as the most interesting feature connected with this province, that it is said to {•nxJuce the most beautiful women in the empire.

But the Prince of Satsuma was the great hero of the Dutch res-. lents mt Nagasaki, he having at different times invited them to ririt him. This prince, who has died since our visit, is said to hxre been the most enlightened, as he was one of the most pow*

Y

338 PRINCE OF SAT8UMA.

erfol, of the independent princes. In close alliance with the late emperor, who had married his daughter, he possessed great influ-ence at Yedo, where he owned no less than nine town-houses. His is one of the families from which, when a direct heir fails to the temporal throne, an heir-presumptive is selected. One of the ancestors of their great line was the coliqueror of the Lew-chew Islands. The province of Satsuma contains vast quantities of the sulphur which may form an item in our trade with Japan At its southern extremity is situated the island of Ivogasizna, or Sulphur Island, which is said to bum incessantly. The mines on this island yield the Prince of Satsuma an annual revenue of two hundred chests of silver. I was informed by Captain EateDdyke^ a Dutch gentleman at Nagasaki, that this prince had already es-tablished an electric telegraph, which was in sucoessful opention between his palace and his capital city, Elagosima, a distance of about three miles. He has also extensive glass fectories and can-non foundries, in which eight hundred workmen are employed.

Under Captain Katendy ke's direction, the Japanese were at that time carrying out some extensive public works in the harbor. These principally consisted of a machine shop and foundry, with all the appurtenances necessary for the building and lepairing of steamers, which the emperor had recently determined on estab-lishing at Nagasaki. For the last six months prior to our arrival the Dutch engineers had been engaged collecting machineiy; a lai^ q«aa% had already arrived.

The spot selected for the erection of the various buildings is in a beautifhl valley, sloping down to, and terminating at, the left bank of the harbor, entering from seaward opposite Nagasaki We observed a boat-load of Dutch artificers and engineers ciobb to it daily, but had not time to inspect their progress oanelTes. It was calculated that two years would elapse before the works could come into operation. A pier several hundred feet in leogUu and extending out sufficiently &r to insure twenty feet at low water, was being built immediately in front, and as a part of ^ establishment In the construction of this pier, the Japanese workmen, under Dutch direction, were making constant use oft diving-bell and Nasmyth's hammer.

Japanese are allowed to enter these works as apprentioeS) in order to perfect themselves in engineering and mechanics, and so strong are their acquisitive propensities,. where knowledge is can-

MIUTART OBOANIZATIOX. 88)^

oerned, that several princes have sought and obtained permission from the emperor to place themselves under instruction, and are to be seen daily at the works, busily engaged at the lathe, the vice, or the forge, as the case may require, while others may be found in the drafting-room, preparing the necessary drawings for the various departments. Besides this, there has been for some years a naval school. By accounts we have received from Na* gasald, dated April last, we learn that an imperial decree has been received from Yedo, directing that the naval school be removed fncnn Nagasaki to the capital, the government believing that their offioera have attained such proficiency in navigation as to enable them to dispense with £sirther instruction in that department This conclusion appears to have been arrived at from their screw steamer Yedo having lately made a successful passage from Na-gasaki to Yedo in nine days, unaccompanied by any foreigner. The school of engineers^ however, above alluded to, is still to be oontinQed, as well as one of medicine and surgery, which has been for some time in existence, and very well attended.

Upon levies raised by the princes of Fizen and Tsikuzen would depend the defense of Nagasaki and the adjacent coast in the event of a war between Japan and any foreign country. Every inde-pendent prince throughout the country is bound to contribute a certain quota of troops to assist those of the imperial government So large a proportion of the male population is considered avail-able for this purpose, that the standing army of Japan ranks prob-ably among the lai^gest in the world, though totally deficient in that training or scientific knowledge of the military art which womld render it formidable to a civilized people.

The occupation of a soldier is held in high estimation in the country. They belong to the fourth social grade, and are called Sftmlai, holding their lands by a nominal tenure of their feudal superiors, in consideration of their military service. The imperial tnxjps, as distinguished from those of the feudal princes, have been estimated at 100,000 foot and 20,000 horse. I do not feci certain, however, that my authority for this is to be relied upon.

At three o^clock in the afternoon of the 6th of August we weighed anchor, and steamed out of Nagasaki harbor, the Retri-botioOf yacht, and Lee gun-boat in company. Just as we did so a sslvo of guns announced a foreign sail in sight, and as we clear-ed the Iwo-Sima Islands we discerned a large Dutch ship beating

g40 ^ GALE OF WIND.

bravely up from the southward. We little guessed that at that moment a storm was brewing which should in a few hours strew the ribs of that goodly craft upon the rocks under our lee, and drive us for a shelter under the wild headland of Ohichakoflt We went under easy sail, so as to get daylight for our passage through Yan Diemen's Straits, and found ourselves next moniifig between two conical volcanic peaks, the apparent counterpart of each other, about 2500 feet in height, and situated some tweaU miles apart. The wind now freshened to a gale ; rocks and islands studded this little-known sea in every direction ; and, as the weather thickened, it became evident that we must seek some fnendly harbor in which to ride out the violence of the gale.

It was an anxious moment as we felt our way under the bluff ' clifb of Cape Ohichakoff, sounding in vain, and poking our nose into unpleasant proximity to breakers. Beyond the storm-beaten cape we need not hope for shelter. Our only chance was to posh up the deep unsurveyed Bay of Elagosima until we found a safe anchorage. Fortunately we had not far to go-— a slight indenture in the coast, with a few fishing cottages on the sandy beach, and a boat or two hauled up on it, gave promise of an anchorage, which we found about a mile distant from the shore. It was an iron-bound coast, the steep grassy hills terminating in rocky bla& at the base of which the sea broke heavily. Here, however, i< long as the wind continued in one direction, we were secure, and Accordingly, within a cable's length of us the Retribution and yacht were soon moored. Of the Lee, however, we had seen nothing since the previous evening, and were not a little anzioof as to her fate. We almost regretted that fortune did not drive us up the bay to Kagosima, the capital of Satsuma, where we should have had an opportunity of visiting the residence of the prince, and of inspecting the progress of those foreign arts and inventions which he has introduced, and which have already contributed so largely to the prosperity of the chief city of ht province.

The whole of this section of the coast of Japan is eminentlT volcanic ; peaked mountains were observable far inland, while out to seaward peaked islands gave evidence of their fiery origin. In the island of Kiusiu alone, at the southernmost point of which we were now at anchor, there are no less than five active volca noes ; of these one is in Satsuma, but the most celebrated is the

VOLCANIC EBUPnONa 341

Wanzen-take, or the " IXigh Mountain of warm Springs/' in Fi-zen. An account of one of its eruptions is contained in the Chi-nese Bepositoiy. In 1798 the summit of the mountain sank en-tirely down ; torrents of boiliug water issued from all parts of the deep cayitj which was thus formed^ and the vapor arose like thidc smoke. In one of its eruptions it is recorded to have de-stroyed the ill-fated city of Sima Barra, when 85,000 persons are !^d to have perished. Old Father Froes, writing in 1586, tells a 4ory of a strong castle in the kingdom of Mino, built at the top (yf a hill, which, after several violent shocks, sank down and dis-^^jpeared of a sudden — " the earth gaping that not the least foot-!»tep remained, a lake quickly filling the place where the founda-* tions of the castle had been. Another accident of this kind oc-corred in the province of Tkeja. Very many gaps and openings were observed up and down the empire, some of which were so wide and deep that, guns being fired into them, the balls could not be heard to reach the other end, and such a smoke and stench issued out of them that people would not venture to travel that way."* Kasmpfer describes a small island near Firando which has been burning and trembling for centuries ; while many hot and sulphurous springs bubble up all over the empire, and are much frequented for the healing qualities they are supposed to possess.

It is not to be wondered at, in such a country of fire and brim-^ooe^ that the inhabitants should speculate learnedly upon the infiemml regions, and now and then choose some seething well or flaming mountain as the descensus Avemu They have, moreover, •Ifcided upon the various departments of punishment To one spring, which is covered at the top with a white cream-like froth, are consigned pastry-cooks and confectioners who practiced adul-teration while in this life ; while deceitful brewers pass a miscra-'>le existence in a spring as thick and muddy as the beer or sakee 'Jixj sold their customers.

To ride at anchor on wild, stormy nights off such an ** uncan-Ti J** oosst, was like being condemned to sleep in a haunted room. We were a prey to vague imaginary terrors, and never knew whether, in some convulsion of nature, the waters might not sud-•ienlj recede, and leave us, as they did the Russian frigate Diana. <tnuQ<ied on the bottom.

We remained at anchor in this dismal spot for about thirty-six booTB, during which time the gale blew with such violence as to

842 ABRIVAL AT SIMODA«

render it impossible to attempt a landing. . About midnigbt on the 7th, however, it shifted suddenly. Captain Osbom, anticipat-ing a quick change, had hove the cable short, and we were under weigh in a few minutes with a blinding wind and sea in our teeth, and our bows under at every heave. The huge pointed rocks off Chichakoff loomed black and threatening in the thick darkness, and we could hear the waves roaring against them as we strag-gled past this point — ^the Eetribution, with the yacht in tow, do-ing her work manfully, and her light, like an ignis fatuus, dancing on the waves close to our quarter. We did not know until we met her at Yedo, just a week afterward, how nearly the Lee had left her bones to whiten on that inhospitable coast Nailed to a lee shore for some hours, her life was despaired of by her gallant commander. Captain Grahame, whose skill and seamanship, aUj seconded by Captain Colin Campbell, who was on board as a guest at the time, rescued her from her precarious predicament.

Though it blew very hard for the three following days, the wind was &ir, and we made rapid progress. On the morning of the 10th we saw on the distant horizon the lofty cone of Fosi-yama, a mountain of whose very existence I had heretofore been ignorant, and whose celebrity we did not even then suspect At that great distance it was a striking object Towering over all minor elevations, it reared its snow-streaked crest to a height of 12,000 feet above the sea, presenting in its form and outline very much the appearance of Mount Etna. According to Japanese accounts, it has not been active for upward of a century. Alter-ing our course for this landmark, so worthy the great dty of Yedo, we made out shortly on our starboard beam the " Isle? Bris^," and near them the active volcano of Vries, with a puflT of smoke resting above it as though a shell had burst upon its apex.

Our immediate destination was Simoda, but its narrow entrance on that bay-indented coast was somewhat difficult to find* As we neared the shore we observed numerous craft dodging in and out of harbors, and playing at " hide-and-seek" round bold green headlands, and behind rocky islets ; and at last we opened the snug-looking bay of Simoda, and glided into its peaceful watei^ between shores heavily clothed with timber, and resplendent with brilliant foliage. Deep coves invited the tempest-tossed fisherman to calm security, the entrance guarded by rooks, the shores feath-

DANGEROUS HABBOB. 84S

ered to the water's edge, and the water itself clear as ciystal, and aliye with glancing fishes. We only gazed wistfxdly into these temptiDg retreats, too small for any thing bat a fishing-boat, and steamed gently on into the tranquil harbor, in which two large rocks, rising fiom its centre, are a picturesque but most incon-venient feature. One of these, called Centre Island, is perforated with a cavern and crowned with trees. The water is deep all round it, and, as long as the wind is not blowing fix>m the south-east, is perfectly smooth.

To the unwary visitor the harbor seems the perfection of secu-rity, 8o snugly embayed ; while above it the hills rise in tumbled masMs, surrounding the little town, and giving birth to the river tliat winds its sluggish course through a valley that might be in fiuiyland, to the sea. With a sullen plunge the anchor falls into the water deep and blue within a few yards of the shore, and sends a throb of fresh excitement through our veins as we gaze with ecstasy on the lovely scene around us, and prepare to explore its unknown charms.

i

344 BESEDENCE OF THE AMERICAN CONSUL.

CHAPTER 24.

CHAPTER XXIV.

Beadenoe of the American Consul. — ^A Hermitage. — ^Visit to the American CoonL — ^His recent Saccen at Tedo. — ^Bazar at Simoda. — ^Tortming Indecision. — ^A Jap> anese GraTe-yard. — ^Bnddhist Temples. — ^The Sintoo Beligion. — ^Household Godi. — ^A Japanese Temple. — Doctrines of the Sintoos. — ^Theological SpecnlstJom.— The Value of Sintooism. — ^A Visit from the Goyemor.^An ezpensiTe Fonn of Politeness. — General Appearance of Simoda. — ^Voyage up the Bay of Tedo.-— Ji|^ anese Cottages. — Eanagawa. — ^Approach to Tedo.

At the head of the Bay of Simoda, and about a mile distant £rom the town, is situated a pleasant grove of trees. Its mysteri-ous shades are dedicated, doubtless, to religious purposes, and con-ceal in their solemn recesses some picturesque old temple, in which, for an untold number of years, shriveled priests have performed their sacred functions. It is a spot eminently suggestive of re-pose and religious retirement ; and we could scarcely believe our eyes when, on bnnging our telescopes to bear, we distinguished, fluttering among the leaves of a sacred Bo-tree, the well-known combination of red, white, and blue which forms the national flag of our transatlantic cousins. Yet so it is ; the stars and stripes wave proudly over the premises originally occupied by some re-cent incarnation of Buddh ; and Mr. Harris, the American consul has converted the shrine of that divinity into a four-poster. We learn all this from Mr. Hewsken, Mr. Harris's secretary, who comes off to visit us before we have had time to land, and who brings Lord Elgin an offer of services on the part of the American consol.

I landed with Lord Elgin to pay Mr. Harris a visit The ex-ternal aspect of his abode, as seen from the ship, did not belie it^ romantic character upon a closer acquaintance. Had one wished to retire altogether from the cares and anxieties of this trouble-some world, it would be difficult to conceive a retreat more per-fectly adapted for the purpose. When, however, entire and total seclusion is the result rather of necessity than choice, it is small consolation to feel that you are imprisoned in a comer admirably suited to a recluse. Often, in the course of his wanderings, the traveler is struck with the charms of some silent nook in this bustling universe. His first impression is, " What a delightful

YlSrr TO THE AMERICAN CONSUL : 845

spot for a heimit!" — ^his next, "How I fihoold pity the poor wretch I** For disciples of Zimmerman, notwithstanding, or lovers in a Petrarchian state, Japan offers greater attractions, probably, than any other country in the globe, but neither Mr. Harris nor Mr. Hewsken seemed altogether to appreciate them. A well-stored library, and a few rooms comfortably fitted up, gave an agreeable air of civilization to the establishment; but what can compensate for two years of almost entire isolation and banish-ment from communion with one's fellow-men ? Except upon the rare occasions of Simoda being visited by some foreign vessel, these two gentlemen had not seen a creature with whom they oould exchange an idea. They had been for eighteen months without receiving a letter or a newspaper, and two years without lasting muttouT-sheep being an animal unknown in Japan. Still, this exile had not the effect of disgusting them with the country of their banishment Mr. Harris spoke in terms even more eulo-gistic than those universally employed by the Dutch of the Jap-anese people. His residence among them, under circumstances which compelled him to form intimate relations with them — ^for they were bis only companions— only served to increase his high opinion of their amiable qualities and charming natural disposi-tions. He told us numerous anecdotes illustrative of this, more especially of the extraordiiuay attention shown him by the em-peror and empress on the occasion of a serious illness which he had suffered The emperor insisted on sending his own medical man to attend upon him, while her majesty delighted in providing him with culinary delicacies, prepared by herself^ and suited to his state of healtk

Mr. Harris had only recently returned from Yedo, where he had JQst succeeded in negotiating a more favorable treaty with the Japanese govenmient than had been made since the days of Cap-tain Saris. He had passed some months in that city, during which .time both he and Mr. Donker Curtius had been engaged in fruit-less efforts to induce the government to accede to their terms. In 1S55 the latter gentleman had concluded a mercantile arrange-mentf by which certain concessions were allowed to foreigners ; bat the cumbersome machinery of the Geldkammer was still re-taioed, and the monopoly of the trade was reserved to the Japan-ese govermnent, under conditions which rendered the concessions woTthlesB to nations engaged in commerce upon enlightened prin-

846 HIS R£C£NT SUCCESS AT TEDO.

ciples. Mr. Harris, however, was determined to make a treaty worthy the progressive people whom he represented ; and Mr. Donker Curtius, finding him so engaged, repaired to Yedo, de-termined, if possible, not to be outdone. It so happened that his precautions were unavailing.

Finding the Japanese government inexorable, both gentlemen left in despair — Mr. Donker Curtius upon a long overland jour-ney of two months to Nagasaki, Mr. Harris to return to Simoda. He had scarcely reached it, however, before the Powhattan a^ rived with intelligence of the Treaty of Tientsin. Mr. Harris then lost not a moment in himself carrying the news of this to the cap-ital ; and while Mr. Donker Curtius was journeying laboriously to Nagasaki, ignorant of the great events which had taken place, his rival had signed his treaty, and was back again at Simoda repos-ing on his laurels.

We walked along the edge of the bay from Mr. Harris's temple-abode to the town. Simoda is a mean place compared with Na* gasaki, and it is difficult to conceive why Commodore Peny should have fixed upon it as a port Even in those days it was little more than a fishing village, and since then it has been visit-ed by an earthquake, from the effects of which neither town nor harbor has yet recovered. Always exposed, even where the an-chorage was tolerable, there is now no holding-ground in the event of a storm, so completely did that terrible convulsion of nature change the surface of the bottom.

The town, which is situated at the debouching of the small river into the sea, is composed of a few mean streets, running at right angles to each other, and contains, probably, fix)m three to four thousand inhabitants. At one comer of it is a bazar established for the benefit of foreigners, containing lacker of a superior dc^ scription to that exhibited at Nagasaki, and sundry articles of na-tive manu&cture I had observed before. Among others, I bongbt some water-proof great-coats for eighteen pence apiece, made of wax paper, and as completely effectual in a storm of rain as the best mackintosh that ever was manu&ctured. They are very light and portable, the only drawback being a liability to tear ; but then they are half the price of a pair of white kid glov^es.

These bazars are the most tantalizing of resorts. There is so much displayed, and it is all so beautiful and new, that one walks through avenues of brilliant novelties in a stupefied oonditioD of

BAZAB AT 8IM0DA. 847

mind, and with a strong sensation of overwhelming responsibility. If any body wonld only come and tell one which to choose, and what was most likely to be admired at home. Alas I every body else is buying furiously ; nobody seems to have a doubt upon the subject ; all the best things are being bought up under your nose, and there you stand bewildered and dismayed ; so you finally dc* temue to buy recklessly and indiscriminately until your pocket is emptied of its contents. The process is simple. As soon as the article is determined upon, the Japanese vendor hands you a slip of paper and a fine hair brush dipped in ink. On this you write your name and the price, after which you convey the aim* plest expression of which your name will admit to the Japanese, who writes in his own language the nearest approximation which his ear retains of the uncouth sound. At the end of the day you proceed to a sort of bureau, where all the purchases are piled up, doly labeled, and their prices attached. These are added up by the oflkials employed, and the fi>reign coin which is tendered taken by weight There is no haggling in the first instance, or disputes afterward ; every thing is managed with perfect order tud system.

Another inconvenience attending these bazars is the waste of time which they involve. One is a martyr to one^s conscience all the while. What business have you to stand and stare at lacker all day, when the town and its neighborhood are to be explored, and numerous interesting and important facts are to be observed and noted? It is less expensive and more instructive to turn one^s back upon this scene of extravagance, and start off in search of the novel and the picturesque. We have not far to go. Just behind the bazar rises a densely-wooded hill, and of course it is adorned with temples and shrines, which we reach by clambering up long flights of steps, and find little figures standing behind strips of colored paper, and inscriptions, and the ashes of a sacred fire. We look down over the town and bay, and then follow a mmantic path which winds through the damp impenetrable shade formed by dense foliage, and suddenly opens upon an extensive grave-yaid, where quaintly*carved tomb-stones are planted thick under the tall trees. The graves, of which these monuments indi-cate the position, are said to be of circular form, plastere<l with lime to prevent the infiltration of water. According to old Ar-noldus Montanus, the women are placed in these in a sitting pos-

348 ^ JAPANESE GRAVE-TARD.

tore, with their hands separated, and their &ces turned as though looking oyer the shoulder ; the men are seated in a devotioDal at-titude, with their hands clasped. The tomb-stones are called osek^ and some of thein are elaborately carved, and adorned with repie-sentations of warriors fighting, or, in the case of women's grayes, with drawings of flowers. The inscriptions are carved in the stone, and left in that condition until the owner of the graye be-comes its occupant, when they are gilt

Altogether, a Japanese grave-yard, abundantly supplied with tall sculptured monumental stones, many of them hoary and moss-grown, embowered amid dense foliage, and overshadowed by the twisted gables of some sacred edifice, is an object of interest and tranquil beauty, calculated to produce in the mind of the stranger fix>m the Western world a strong impression in &vor of a people whose taste and sentiments upon so solemn a subject seem to be in accordance with his own.

We passed from the grave-yard into the temple. The interior was a spacious hall, matted and hung with large lanterns; a cen-tre space, inclosing sacred tapers, and images of different sizes, was railed off, as is usual in Buddhist temples. To those not deeply versed in the mysteries of the religion, neither the prind-pal idol nor the general aspect of the building seemed to differ very much &om temples dedicated elsewhere to the same wor-ship ; but, inasmuch as there are thirty-five sects in Japan, or, at any rate, were in the days of Nobanunga, there was doubtless niuch that was not orthodox in the temple in question. The priest, a venerable old man in a long gray robe, was remarkably civil to us; but, as it was impossible to exchange an idea with him, we contented ourselves by looking as pleased and interested as we could.

* The numerous temples in the neighborhood of Simoda form the most attractive feature in its environs. They are more easily ^ proached than those at Nagasaki: there is less climbing, and the walks are prettier. Under almost every hill is hidden a yasiro or miya : the entrance gateway is probably composed of two mon-oliths, and resting upon them a long block of stone, upturned at the ends, and perhaps curved in the centre ; firom this a broad paved avenue leads to a flight of steps, at the top of which sits en* shrined a many-armed divinity. Dense groves of bamboos and other trees offer a delicious and refireshing shade to the pedestrian,

THE 8INT00 RELIGION. 849

who can lounge upon the hottest day along shady walks fipom one temple to another, and smoke innumerable cigars on the steps of them. Most of these temples bore a strong resemblance to each other; one, however, which we visited, differed entirely from the rest, and this we discovered to be Sintoo.

A Japanese on a visit to this country, who should endeavor to impart to his friends in Japan some idea of the varied shades of religious opinion which obtain in it, would find but little light thrown on the subject by the comparison and inspection of any number of cathedrals, churches, or chapels ; and if his time was limited, and his interpreter imperfect and not versed in theol-ogy, his account of the religious denominations of the British empire would be somewhat confused. So, of our own knowledge, we can say but little of the religions of Japan ; that one, however, which is entitled to be called the national religion, and which dates from the earliest period, is the religion of Sinsyn, or " Faith of the Gods." The votaries are called Sintoos, and its temporal head is the Mikado, or Spiritual Emperor. The divinity who is ^ the chief object of adoration is the goddess Ten-sionlai-zin, or pa* tron deity of Japan. She was the daughter of the first god who erer married, and who created the world, which then consisted of Japan : prior to him there extends a mythological history scarce-ly neoeasaiy to follow. This goddess with the long name was 'Succeeded by four terrestrial gods, the last of whom married a mortal wife, and left a mortal son upon earth, the immediate pred-ecessor of the mikados.

This mikado, besides being the spiritual emperor of Japan, is a ^pcaea of intercessory mediator between his subjects in this world and the spirits and canonized beings of the next. In many re-spects his functions seem very similar to those of the Pope. In him rests the power of canonization, a much-coveted honor among the kamis and great men of the empire. When canonized, they ^^ctain the name of kami in the next world, and are chiefly use-f^ in mteroeding with the goddess Ten-sio<lai-zin, who can not he approached directly ; so every Sintoo Japanese has his patron iuuni^ who are enshrined in his house, and constitute his Lares and Penates. The kamis are divided into superior and inferior, 492 being bom gods, and 2640 being deified or canonized men.

The temple we visited contained numbers of these little shrines, widi representations of kami, together with models of ships and

S50

A JAPANESE TEHPLE.

other curiosities called Jemms, which, however, are oalj pUoed there as donations bjr grateful woishipers, to furaish amoKment to persons frequenting the temple. The building itself «u de-void of all architectural preteuaioD, and of a slate-color, tlie inte-rior remarkable for its simplicity as compared with Buddhist tem-ples. Ita chief external pecoliarity consisted in a curious oiu-ment«d spire, of which the annexed Japanese drawing will Gm-

vey a better idea than any description. The popolar n of FuM-yama appears in the background covered with snow. The distinguishing feature of Sintoo temples is a looking-glies, ffi emblematic of the bouI's purity. On the right-hand aide, on en-tering, was a sort of font containing water, ajid opposite to it i large bell. An oblong open box, laced across the top with wire, is a conspicuous object to remind the wotshipers of their dutia >! almsgivera. The form of worship is very simple. Chureh-goen Commence by washing themselves in the font ; they then pnj op-posite the looking-glass, asking for their necessities as we do ; then chink a few coppers into the wire-oovered box, strike the bell thiice

DOCTBINES OF THE 8IMT00& 851

00 a mgnal that it is all over, and retire. Some, with a metaphys-ical turn of mind, suppose that God sees into their hearts as plainlj as they do into the looking-glass, and therefore do not pray at aU.

I observed many strips of white paper, called by Siebold " Go-hei," and on which Japanese characters were inscribed. Eaempfer states that the Sintoo believes in Elysian or sub-celestial fields as the abode of disembodied spirits, but that he is a universalist in the matter of future punishment, and can form no idea of a devil oxoept as represented by a fox. Siebold, however, says that ''the Siotooist has a vague notion of the soul^s inmiortality— of an eter-nal state of future happiness and misery, as the reward respective-ly of virtue or vice— of separate places whither the soul goes aft-er deatL Heavenly judges call each to account : to the good is allotted Paradise, and they enter the realm of the kami ; the wick-ed are condemned, and thrust into hell." Certainly the fiunous dis-pute about the color of the devil would go to show that they be-lieve in one, and disprove Esempfer's assertion. The following is a tnuttlation of a text from one of their sacred books given by that author : *' In the beginning of the opening of all things, a chaos floated, as fishes swim in the water for pleasure : out of this chaos aiose a thing like a prickle, movable and transformable. This thiog became a soul or spirit, and this spirit is called Kunitoko Dat8uo Mikotto."

The numerous sects which exist in Japan seem to be modifica-tions, in divers degrees, of Buddhism and Sintooism. Buddhism WB9 not introduced in Japan until the year A.D. 652, and, after some struggle to obtain a footing, finally took root about the end «>f the century, and became gradually infused into the religion of the country. After all, it differed in no great degree from the ^^xisdng worship. They both inculcated a high moral standard : ;>urity of heart and life was the great feature of Sintooism ; purity of body was enforced by ceremonial ordinances, almost Levitical in their character. Certainly, in that vague condition of future tiUflB which the Buddhist looks forward to in Nirvana, he does ooC approximate to the Sintoo notion of Paradise ; but then, sup-posing Siebold to be correct, he escapes the infernal regions of the latter by his doctrine of Metempsychosis. On the other hand, Sintoo priests are a more fitvored race than those of Buddha ; for ouffriage is permitted them, the Mikado setting the example.

352 THE VALUE OF SINTOOISK.

This spiritual functionaTy dwells theoretically in heaven, but he is doubtless occasionally reminded of his propinquity to this Tale of tears by some of the twelve wives to which by law he is entifled

Buddhist priests invariably shave the head, which they leave uncovered. The Sintoo priesthood allow their hair to grow, and wear a remarkable head-dress, resembling an inverted boat lack-ered, and often of a most brilliant color.

In addition to the religions of Sinsyn and Buddha, with their various shades of intermixture, ia the philosophic creed of Satoo, or " the Way of Life," apparently a modification of Confucianism, which is here, as in China, sufficiently," broad" and elastic to con-sist with any form of superstition. Properly speaking, it recog-nizes no gods, temples, or places of worship ; acknowledges a uni-versal pervading spirit ; denies any fixture state of rewards and punishments, holding that happiness consists in a righteous life, and that, when the five cardinal virtues are practiced, the man is perfect. These are, to live virtuously, to do right, to be oourteons, to govern wisely, and to obey the conscience.

We may assume that in Japan, as in all countries where Bud-dhism exists, those elevated and somewhat mystic tenets which are developed in its sacred books commend themselves to the under-standings of the more enlightened and refined classes of society: while the humbler portion of the population take refuge in die idolatry of that gross material form which can alone satisfy their coarse, sensuous requirements. It seems a question whether the vulgar mind is really the crucible in which to test the power and value of a theology ; how often does it degrade the noblest fidth to its own level, and the hasty observer judges the religion bj its coarsest development 1 If, however, we are to consider the char-acter of the Japanese with reference to their religious training alone, Buddhism is certainly not the religion which has exercised the most favorable influence upon their minds and dispositions. Buddhism is said to be the religion of three hundred and fifteen millions of the human race, who are all morally and intellectaallT inferior to the Japanese. If, therefore, we ignore all physical causes, and those theories by which it has recently been sought to account for civilization and social progress, and reduce it to a question of religion alone, we are forced to admit that the Sintoo religion has produced results which entitle it to a very high rank among the religions of the world.

A VISIT FROM THE GOVEBMO& 853

Having arrived at which oonclusion, we descend from the stepe of the temple of Sinsjrn, upon which we have seated ourselves while speculating upon the value of the creed; and the sun being hj this time concealed behind the peaked hills of the valley, we can stioU along the rice-fields by the river's brink, and enjoy the balmy air of evening, or stop in answer to an invitation, and in-dulge in delicious tea without paying for it In its present unso-phisticated state, Japan is a cheap as well as a pleasant residence, foreign coin being forbidden, and the inhabitants being either very conscientious, or very much afraid of being reported to gov-ernment We smoke pipes, drink tea in delightfiil summer-houses, cross ferries, and in various manners incur pecuniary li-abilities which we have no means of liquidating, for our money is raolotely declined, and with an air of politeness which quite makes us regret that we ever made the tender; so we are compelled to reconcile ourselves to our fate, and by an interchange of tobacco endeavor to convey a reciprocity of cordial sentiments.

The day following our arrival at Simoda, Lord Elgin received a viiat from the governor. He had learned that we proposed go-ing up the Bay of Yedo, and his object now was to exert all his ;-owefB of peiBuasion to induce Lord Elgin to forego this inten-tion. He brought a large suite on board with him, all of whom fieemed to appreciate an English luncheon. I was rather startled to hear one of them refuse Cura^oa, and ask for Maraschino in-stead. The governor himself was a man of a most jovial temper-ament He indulged in constant chuckles, and rather reminded <*oe of Mr. Weller senior. He seemed to consider every thing a capital joke — even Lord Elgin's positive refusal to comply with Lis request to hand over the yacht at Simoda and remain at that I'lace He used every possible argument to carry his point, but without avaiL He said he dreaded the consequences to himselC and chuckled ; still more did he dread the consequences to us, and chuckled again ; and when at last he found that we were neither to be frightened or cajoled, he seemed perfectly contented, and proceeded to wrap up in square pieces of paper any articles of food which particularly struck his fancy, which he carried in the r Hils of his shirt, saying, as he did so, that he had a number' of children at home of an age to appreciate the culinary curiosities* of foreign parta Many of his suite seemed to have families also, fur they followed his example. I rather think one attempted to

354 GENERAL AFPEABANCE OF SIMODA.

cany awaj^some strawberry jam in his bosom, or in the sleeve of his coat, which was made full and baggy for the purpose. These square pieces of paper are not used exclusively for wrapping up food in ; upon them inquisitive Japanese take notes, and in them they blow their noses. It is a mark of politeness to cany away a quantity of food fix>m a dinner-table ; so much so, that a veiy civil guest sometimes brings a servant and a basket to cany away those remnants which a good English housekeeper would Appro-priate to luncheon next day. This is a somewhat expensive mode of showing approval of one's friend's dinner, but not so disagree-able as the gradations which a man of good-breeding indulges in with the same object

The governor told us that he was allowed to have his wife with him at Simoda, but this, as we understood, was only because his rank was not sufficiently high to bring him within the categoir of those obliged to leave their wives at Yedo. There are two governors of Simoda, who relieve each other every six months. the object being that each should serve as a check upon his col-league. The governor, having now apparently satisfied his con-science, prepared to take leave. He subsequently preferred a re-quest in writing that two Japanese officials should be allowed r. passage in the Furious up the harbor. This, however, was de-clined, upon the plea that it was contrary to the rules of the serv-ice to take on board passengers.

Under the new treaty Kanagawa is substituted for Simoda. which ceases to be an open port It is indeed valueless as sad : the harbor is unsafe, the population is small and of the poorest description, consisting chiefly of fishermen. The means of com-munication with the interior are bad, as the town is situated on a peninsula, to pass from which intp the country it is necessary to cross a mountain range about six thousand feet in height

The houses are all built of wood, many of them only of one story. The shops are poor and thinly supplied. Here, as at Na-gasaki, the poorer classes are but lightly clad, the men having bt-tle on besides a loin-cloth, and the women being generally uncov-ered above the waist. They manifested but little curiosity at ui as we strolled about the streets, but I was amused to observe a crowd collected round a dog belonging to one of our party, of th^ Shantung terrier breed, and which, though a purely Chinese dog. is scarcely to be distinguished firom a Skye terrier. This long-

VOTAOB UP THE BAT OF TEDO. 866

haired apecimen of the canine race created immense excitement and interest, both among Japanese doga and men, as be trotted complacently along the streets of Simoda.

We experienced great civility and kindnefls from Mr. HarriB Juniig our short stay at Simoda, bat were more especially indebt-ed 10 him for the liberality with which he supplied a most import-ant dcficieDcy, in placing at Lord Klgin's disposal the senrices of Ilia excellent Dutch interpreter, Mr. Hewsken. This gentleman proved, during our stay at Yedo, a rery oblij^ng and agreeable oompanion, ss well as a most able aseistant. Having spent two nan in the country, he had picked up a good deal of the lan-mge, and I am indebted to him for much interesting information. Id iU oGBcial transactions a Japanese interpreter was employed to interpret from Dutch into Japanese.

We got under weigh from Simoda at daylight on the morning of the 12th of August, and with a fur wind proceeded rapidly up ihe bay, passing on our left a mountain range of about 6000 feet in beighL The shoies now begin to close in, and at the Straits of Craga, which we reached in about five boors from Simoda, they ire not above ten miles aparL At this point the scenery was very

S56 KANA6AWA.

prettj ; wooded hills rise firom the water's edge, sloping geotly back, here and there deeply furrowed with a charming gten, in which cottages with steep-diatched roo& and oyerhanging eaves are snugly ensconced. The western shore resembles some paitt-of the coast of the Isle of Wight The town of Uraga itself is tk most important-looking place on the coast It is oonsideied a sort of barrier to Yedo, and even country craft should stop here to ^Te an account of themselves. Two boat-loads of two-sworded offidat pushed off in haste as we steamed up, and by gesticolatioDS and gestures of entreaty invited us to stop ; but we passed on, utteil v indifferent to their signals ; and as we left them far behind, we could still discern them tugging hopelessly after us, in the vain attempt to overtake a steamer of ^K) horse-power going at foil speed.

We could scarcely believe our eyes when, at anchor, the same night, we observed these identical boats pull alongside, they hai* ing never relinquished the pursuit

, Meantime we steamed steadily on through waters traversed for the first time by Commodore Perry's squadron a few yean ago. and consequently but little surveyed. Passing the Perry and Webster islands, prettily wooded, and of a picturesque fonn, wi* came within sight of the Eussian squadron, anchored at Eanaga* wa, at about midday. This place is situated at a distance of eighteen miles from Yedo. It affords good anchorage about half a nule from the shore ; it is a town of considerable importance, and has been selected as one of the new ports. Count Poatia-tine, who had proceeded to Japan direct from the Gulf of Peche-lee, had arrived here about a fortnight previously, and been en* gaged during that period in making arrangements for his proper reception at the capital. Lord Elgin, however, instead of stop ping at Eoinagawa, determined to adopt the unprecedented coorsi of sailing straight up to the capital, believing tiiat, if the achieve ment were feasible, it would not only save valuable time, bat tha: the presence of our ships there would produce a most salutan effect upon the government, and in all probability tend to fccili tate our negotiations. It was eminently fortunate that on ooca sions of this sort he had in Captain Sherard Osbom a commander upon whose zeal and professional skill he could always place tlur most perfect reliance.

Our unexpected appearance must have somewhat astonisbeii

APPROACH TO YEDO. 857

oar MoBOOvite friends, more especially as we passed on at fiill 5peed ap the bay, where no Western ship had ever before ven-mrecL Up to this point, the western shore under which we had been coasting was oniformlj high, and broken with projecting promontories; now, however, it sank to a level with Uie waters of the bay. The soundings in Perry's chart cease just before reaching Kawasaki Point — a long sandy spit which runs tax out into the bay, and off which the Japanese have placed a beacon.

The water now became shallow, and the channel somewhat in-tricate. We were just doubting whether the undertaking was practicable, when we saw in the distance some large square-rigged ^hips, of a tonnage which satisfied us that their anchorage would 4o for us ; but for a moment we felt bitterly disappointed at the iiBCoveiy of European-built ships, betokening, as we supposed, the presence of some foreign flag more enterprising than our own. It was only when we approached nearer that we perceived that these Western-looking craft were in reality Japanese, and ob-served the white flag with the red ball floating from the peak of a dapper little steamer, and marking it " Imperial."

Gradnally behind these vessels the island forts, and then the houses of Uie city of Yedo, rose into view. Gently, with two leads going, we crept up to the long-desired haven, closely follow-"^ by the Retribution and yacht; and by two o'clock the same afternoon, after a most prosperous passage from Simoda, we an^ ("bored not tar from the Japanese fleet, at a distance of about tiuee miles from the shore, and five from the capital of the em-pire.

868 OFFICIAL VISITOB&

CHAPTER 25.

CHAPTER XXV.

Official Visiton. — ^We ahift oar Anchorage. — A Visit from Prinoes.— Object of tlv Interview. — ^A Japanese Man-of-war. — ^Visit to the AdmiraL — Ji^Muiese Jaoks.— Imperial Uniform. — Inquisitive Water-parties. — Moriyama. — ^Visit of the Cod-misBioners. — Landing-parties. — The Landing-place. — ^A Japanese Sadd>e.'Th( Procession through Yedo. — Excited Crowd^. — The fair Sex. — Disfigoremeiit of married Women. — Japanese Pleasure-parties. — Arrival at our future

We had not been long at anchor before we were boarded by those ever-vigilant and active two-sworded gentry, who seem to swarm upon the shores of Japan, and who pounce upon tk stranger as if he was their peculiar property. They always come tumbling up the ladder full of smiles and impetuosity, not the least afraid of boarding the foreign ship ; then tiiey bow and look amiable, and talk with excessive volubility in Dutch and Japan-ese, jerking out now and then a word of English. They want to know who we are, how many guns we mount, how many men there are on board, what our object is in coming, whether more shipe are following. Suddenly they recognize Mr. Hewsken ; he is an old friend, and there is Mr. Harrises palanquin (he had kindly lent it to Lord Elgin). Our visitors are much puzzled. It is evident Mr. Harris is secreted somewhere on board, or else hpw oomes it that here are both his secretary and his palanquin ? But' tben Mr. Harris sails under the '' stars and stripes," and the Japanese know that the flag waving above them is the British ensign. They bombard Mr. Hewsken with questions, which they do not give him time to answer, and, at all events, are perfectly dear upon one point — whether Mr. Harris is on board or not, we naurt instantly return to Kanagawa. We explain that the British min* ister is on board, though not visible to their vulgar gaze, and that we can not venture to broach such a proposition to him. Mean-time more official boats arrive, and we learn that Count Poutia-tine has that day arrived from Kanagawa, and made his offidal entry by land into Yedo, where he has taken up his residence. It was evident that none of our visitors were men of rank ; thcj came rather with the view of collecting information than as <^' cial messengers ; but the burden of the song always was, '^ Oo

A VISIT FROM PBIKCES. 859

hack to Kanagawa.'^ Lord Elgin sent a letter on shore the same afternooD to the prime minister, stating that he had come to make a treatj, and to present the yacht to the emperor, and requesting that he might be furnished with a suitable residence on shore.

On the following morning, finding by our boats that we could M nearer the shore, we ran on into three-fathom water, and an-chored about a mile and a half from it, and in the midst of the Japanese fleet This consisted of two large, square-rigged ships, a pretty little paddle-wheel steamer, which had been purchased from the Dutch government, and a three-masted schooner. From oar present anchorage we could follow the houses of the city lining the shores of the bay from the suburb of Sinagawa, off which we were lying, to a long bridge just visible in the extreme distance. This view was intercepted by five island forts, which ro6e from the shallow waters of the bay about half way between us and the centre of the city. Low hills prettily wooded, and crowned with temples, formed a background to Sinagawa and the western portion of the city, while a wooded eminence in the cen-tre, gleaming here and there with a patch of white wall, and dis-tinguished by the roofe of a pagoda, marked the citadel, or resi-Jenoe of the Tycoon.

Towering over all in the western distance, but too often con-ceded by clouds, the majestic Fusi-yama reared its conical sum-nsit. The princes came off to luncheon about midday, bringing with them an answer to the letter of yesterday. These dignitaries are only Saimios, or titular princes, and are of an inferior rank to the Daimios, or hereditary princes. One of them, Sinanono-kami, ▼as the alternate Governor of Simoda, the colleague of our jovial inend of yesterday. They were plainly dressed, and accompanied i'j the usual retinue, the use of .which we now began to perceive. Must of them were engaged during the whole period of their in-•j'nricw with Lord Elgin in reporting in note-books precisely every word that passed. I even caught one fellow, as I glanced '^ver his shoulder, making a sketch of his excellency.

When no conversation was actually taking place, they noted lowQ observations of surrounding objects. Most inquisitive were Uiey in their inquiries about every thing, and ready in booking the answer. The people who had no note-books were spies, whose bosineBB it was to see whether those who had did their duty prop-^h; also to keep an eye on the princes, and report any indis-

3gO OBJECT OF THE INTERVIEW.

cretion of which they might be guilty. So, when every body was watching every body else, it was only natural that the Japanese should wonder who was watching us. They solved this difficulty in an amusing way. Finding that there was only one Britisli minister on board, but observing also that his* letter had been signed Elgin and Kincardine, they gave us to understand, in the least offensive way possible, that Kincardine, who was nowhere visible, they supposed to be engaged in keeping his eye on Elgin. It was some time before we made them understand how two titles could be vested in one and the same person.

Meantime they did not forget the main object of their viat: this was to endeavor to persuade Lord Elgin to return to Eana-gawa, at- which point, they assured us, arrangements could much more easily be made for his reception at Yedo. This was by no means evident Lord Elgin objected that going eighteen milee &rther could not facilitate his coming to the capital ; then thej said that the anchorage was very dangerous. They were reoom* mended, in that case, to remove their own fleet to a place of greatei safety. Farther, they urged it would be impossible to send sup-plies to the ship ; but they were assured that we were quite inde pendent, having a sufficient stock of supplies on board. In fiict^ each prince severally made a remonstrance, doubtless for the ben-efit of his spy ; and when they had fulfilled this duty, they re-ceived with smiles Lord Elgin's assurance that any movement fix)m his present anchorage was impossible until he had fulfilled the object of his visit, and handed over the yacht to the impeml government This decision, they said, they would report to their superiors, and for the remainder of their visit they devoted liiem* selves to paie de fats gras and Champagne. They ultimately d^ parted, promising to return with an answer on the morrow. The next day, however, was so wet that we could hardly blame theoi for not braving the elements; and, to relieve the monotony, a party of us went on a voyage of exploration to the largest ship in the fleet, and then on to the forts.

Both the square-rigged ships looked like those cumbrous arks in which our ancestors used to circumnavigate the globe, and were, in fact, built upon old Dutch models, although of recent construction. The one we boarded was painted a bright red: her masts were of ponderous size, built and ribbed with iron hoops ; the rigging bleached white, and ragged from the action

VISIT TO THE ADMIRAL. 868

«

of the weather and the absence of tar. We ascended the heavy ladder to a large square hole, which admitted ns to the main deck. We were most civilly received by an individual who may be sup-posed to have been the officer of the watch, and shown over the :ihip. Two or three 82*pound Paixhan guns were lying about but there was not a vestige of a carriage, or any bolts for side-tackles. The scantling was of enormous thickness, and the port-holes were closed with clumsily-built shutters. There was an appearance of comfort, nevertheless, about the main deck gener-ally, which was inhabited by the crew, whose mats were all neat-ly arranged round it The lower deck was empty, with the ex-ception of a few stores and water-casks.

Under a high poop astern was the captain's cabin. We entered it, and found two or three naval dignitaries squatted upon the floor drinking tea; one of these we afterward discovered to be the admiral-in-chief of the imperial navy. He was appointed one of the commissioners to treat with Lord Elgin, and proved to be a most intelligent person. We had no idea that the plain-looking group before us contained so important a personage ; and, in an-fmer to a polite invitation to join their party, we twisted our legs ander us, received from them pipes containing homoeopathic doses of tobacco in exchange for our cigars, and refreshed ourselves with some delicious tea. Unfortunately, we were compelled to confine our observations to smacking our lips and puifing out smoke, for we were without an interpreter. We did, indeed, ul-timately, by the exercise of great intelligence on both sides, get so fiu* as to learn the Japanese numerals up to ten, and teach them the English ; but the intellectual effort was too great to be sus-tained ; and we parted with feelings of mutual relief^ and the warmest expressions of good-will, as conveyed in our mother tongue. The cabin in which we had been entertained was devoid of famiture, as rooms in Japan always are ; but the mats were aoft, and there was an air of comfort and cleanliness about the apartment It was built apparently of fir-wood, the carpentering of perfect workmanship.

We now made for the left-hand point of the lefl-hand fort, tak-ing advantage of the opportunity to sound as we sailed slowly along. We found the forts constructed of huge blocks of stone, surmounted by guns of large calibre, and staked round with piles. CoQsiderable knowledge of fortification has been displayed both

864 JAPANESE JUNKS.

in their constraction and situ&tiot]. They ertead in a psnllel line with the coast for some distance. Between some of them the water is so shallow as not even to admit of the passage of binta ; between the two weatemmoet, however, it is comparatiTelj deep. We were in the deepest channel, to judge from the size of the na-tire craft which chose it, and found at half flood eight feet c^ in-ter at oiir &rtheat sounding. At this point numbers of jnuki were anchored, and some small schooners built from Enrc^teto models. The lai^;est of these junks may have been of 150 tons burden, high-stemed, heavily-masted, quaint-looking craft; the masts are not composed of a single spar, but built and ribbed vitli iron, rimng from the deck like some gigantjc forest-tree to a height of forty or fifty feet : the top of the mast was slightly beot, aod from it depended a vast expanse of a coarse cotton &bric, sttaeb-ed to a yard on the same scale as the mast^ so masave, tlut U> hoist it must be as laborious an operation as weighing anchor. The rudder projects far astern, and is moved by a huge tiller ex-

A Jmk In Iba StjutTtta (frm ■ ulln dmring).

t«nding half the length of the craft. An extensive assortment of anchors garnish the bow, and on deck there is fluently a thatch-ed shed for the crew. Altogether the rig is clumsy to the ntatic-al eye; but we met several of their junks making good weather of it when it was blowing &eahly. It is said, however, that a gov-

UCPEBIAL UNIFOHll^INQUISmVE WATEB^PABTIES. 866

enunent rule exists, compelling them to be built on a principle whick rendeiB it dangerous for them to ventuie fiu* from shore, so as to prevent their visiting foreign countries. The ■annexed Jap-anese drawing conveys a very good idea of a scene in the Bay of Vedo, with Fusi-jama in the distance.

On our return to the ship we found a message had arrived apol* ogiidng for the non-appearance of the conmiissioners, and inclosing a copy of the American treaty. We were always able to recog-nize government messengers from afSsur. Generally they came in a boat painted red, about the size of a pinnace, and rigged with two lug-sails. The crews were always in uniform— either in blue or black, with white stripes. Black and white aro the imperial oolora, but the national flag is a red ball on a white ground. The J^Muiese seem to hold the sun in almost as great respect as the Parsees. Their patron divinity, Ten-sio-dai-zin, is the sun-god-deas, and they have adopted the luminary as their national em-blem.

While the costume of the government boatmen was uniform and respectable, the same can not be said of the crews of the nu-merous other boats which used constantly to surround us. A pocket-handkerchief would have supplied material for a fiill suit ; but even then it must be torn in half, and while one piece crosses the loins, the other is drawn tightly over the nose. It is not, as may be supposed, from any feeling of modesty that this feature is concealed : the idea is, that it is sensitive to cold ; but the general effect of a man with nothing on but two scanty strips of cotton — one round the middle of his body, and the other round the mid-dle of his face — is in the highest degree ludicrous.

In the afternoon, pleasure parties from the shore used to come and inspect us ; boat-loads of ladies, with a great deal of white powder on their cheeks, and lips painted a brilliant vermilion, gazed on tis with the utmost interest and delight, making witty remarks at our expense, and then laughing inmiodcrately. Some of the gentlemen ventured on board, and one of them mistook Lord Elgin's Chinese chair for a shrine, and, being evidently of a toler^ ant and liberal spirit in religious matters, did us the honor of pros-tratiDg himself before what he supposed was one of our divinities : bat his fidr companions contented themselves with gyrating round iM, and looking in at our port-holes with that curiosity which doubtless characterizes the sex even here. We had not much op-

866 MOBITAMA.

portunity of judging of the extent to which this propensity Ib in-dulged ; but, considering that the most inquisitive men in the world are certainly Japanese men, it is difficult to form a concep-tion of what ^he women must be.

On the following day five commissioners came off to complete the arrangements for our taking up our residence on shore. In addition to the three whom we had already seen was our nanl friend of yesterday, Admiral Nangai Gembano-kami, and a cheer-ful colleague, by name Higono-kami, who turned out the most agreeable and intelligent person I met in Japan. These gentle-men were accompanied by an individual who played a very im-portant part throughout the negotiations, and whose real valoe was indeed very little below his own very high estimate of it He was the interpreter Moriyama, for some time resident at Nagasaki; he wrote and spoke Dutch with almost as much facility as J^n-nese, and was the means of conmiunication between Mr. Hewsken and the commissioners.

Beneath a^ ludicrous affectation of manner Moriyama concealed an infinite amount of practical, shrewd conamon sense. He was, in &ct, a diplomate of the Talleyrand school, always silky and smiling, anxious to impress upon you that he was a mere hnmUe interpreter, while through his bland diffidence it was easy to dis-tinguish a latent ambition to have every thing his own way, and a perfect confidence in his own powers. When we jokingly called him a humbug, and tried to explain to him the meaning of the term, he evidently regarded it as a compliment, while he depr^ cated it in his usual air of insinuating self-satisfistction.

I was fortunate enough to sit next Higono-kami at lunch, and we employed ourselves in making a vocabulary on his &n. Though he had never seen a foreigner, until within the last fev months, in his life, he could write in the English character, and mfi very quick in picking up and retaining the correct pronunciation of every vowel I told hina. He informed me that he was qualify-ing hiznself to be appointed one of the embassadors to be sent to Europe, and anxious, in consequence, to lose no opportunity of learning English. I saw him almost every day during the renoain-der of my stay in Yed(\ and he generally used to repeat without a mistake the lesson of the day before. He was infinitely more in-terested in studying English than in watching the progress of the negotiations, and carried perpetually about in his bosom a stock

LAKDING-PABTIE& 867

of fkoBf which contained his yocabulaiy. At luncheon, however, he genendlj contrived to coQibine duty with inclination, and hav-ing carefully noted the name of each dish, forthwith proceeded to partake of it

Oor guests informed us that a choice of two houses was at our disposal, but that thej regretted thftt the emperor's illness would prevent his giving Lord Elgin the audience he desired. In the mean time, it was arranged that some of our party should go on shore to examine our future abode. After luncheon the admiral went over the ship, inspecting her thoroughly, when he took oc-casion to discuss the merits of oscillating cy lindeis, and show him-self well versed in machinery.

Upon our visitors taking their departure, the humbler members of their retinue, who were all ranged upon the deck, prostrated themselves as their lords and kamis passed.

In consequence of the unfavorable state of the weather, our landing was postponed until the 17th of August On the morn-ing of that day great preparations were made, in order that the event might take place with due eclat It had been arranged that some Japanese officials should come off to accompany his excellency on shore. They were evidently under the impression thai we were going to land in their boats, and were not a little startled to find themselves on board the Lee, in company with the greater part of the officers of the squadron, all in full dress, and with thirteen ships' boats in tow, looking spruce and gay, with their neat crews, and ensigns flying. The Betribution, Farioias, and yacht were all dressed out ; and as the little Lee steamed boldly on past the forts, and threaded her way among the junks beyond, the faces of our Japanese friends elongated at finding our entire indifference to shallow water and sand-

At last soundings in seven feet reminded us that even the Lee had a bottom, and we dropped anchor and got into our boats. As we did so the ships thundered forth a salute, the band of the Set-ribation, in a paddle-box boat, struck up " Rule, Britannia,'' the rest of the boats formed in procession, Lord Elgin's barge in the centre between four paddle-box boats, each with a brass gun in the bow, and in this order we pulled along the shore for about three miles, a spectacle such as Japanese eyes had never before

tnessed, and the novelty of which induced numerous boats to

888 THE LANDINO-PLACE.

posh off and take a nearer view of as as we moved steadily md rapidly along. The landing-place was about the centre rf the city, which is here protected along the Bea-&oe by green batteiies: the graasy alopea, dotted with handsome trees, would rather lead ufl to suppose that we were approaching a park than the mcM populous part of a densely-crowded city. We turned cS fiom the waters of the bay into a little creek, spanned by a bridgt So shallow, however, was the water, that we had some dificnlt^ ia

TIh I«iHUDg.plua, Ytda

forcing even the smaller boats to the foot of the stairs ; we vtn consoled for the inconvenience by being informed that thia vs the landing-place reserved for the exclusive use of fho highest officers of state.

At this point there was comparatively no crowd, the batterie being inclosed, and not open to the general public. Had the Jap-anese been as civilized as we are, ihey would have admitted a se-lect few with tickets, to obtain which it would have been neces-sary to make immense interest with our friend Admiral Nangsi Qembano-kami. As it was, all who were there seemed in some way officially connected with the day's proceedings. We were supplied with tea while the norimons and horses were getting retidy. Norimons are the palanquins of Japan ; they differ, how-ever, from the ordinary palanquin in being square instead of ob-

A JAPAITBSE SADDLE. ggg

long, 80 that a reclining posture is impoaaible. The occapaDt site croos-legged, and is very near the ground, the pole on which the QorimoQ is supported passing over the too£ Four men cany this somewhat uncomfortable contrivance, which is by no means well ■daptad to the stranger desirous of looking about him ; under lime eircnmstances, I always avoided a norimon when it was poasible to get a horse. Upon this occasion we had our chtnoe; they were all standing outside the gate, where an immense crowd VM already collected.

I soon found myself upon a fieiy galloway, perehed on a very hud saddle, my feet in stirrups almost big enough to go to sea in, and something between a catamaran and a Turkish slipper in shipe. They are pointed at one end so as to serve the purpose of a spur ; and if the horae is fresh, the great busineflB of Ufe is to keep the stirrup from touchiDg htm ; but it is impossible to de-vote one's whole attention to this ; for, as the stirrup-leathera are iiill of knots, and the saddle full of knobs, and most of us have left Chioa martyrs to that scourge of the country, boils — our minds are folly occupied with a variety of weighty considerations. Still I found time to observe that my horse's tail was carefully tied up m a long bag which almost reached the gronud ; that his feet were twaddled in straw shoes, an abundant supply of which I carried

hanging under my stirrupe. These were carefully fastened ou with lashings of twisted straw, and whenever one shoe was worn ovt or kicked off, another was immediately tied on ; hence arises the costom in Japan of measuring distances by horses' shoes. Aa

870 ^I^HE PBOCESSION THBOUGH TEDO.

Here you ask in how many horse-shoes will I reach the xeaideDoe of the spiritual emperor ? which, after all, does not differ very much fix)m the old problem of how many cows' tails will reach the moon.

Fortunately, each horse was attended by two grooms, it being a great point with a Japanese that the public should suppose him riding an animal so spirited that the combined exertions of two men are scarcely sufficient to restrain his ardor. These men tog-ged incessantly at the mouth of my poor steed, shouting to bim constantly "Chai, chad," which means " Gbntly, gently," and mak-ing an immense fuss whenever we came to a gutter; but I was too glad to be relieved of the responsibility of guiding him to in-terfere, and the muslin reins hung listlessly between my fingiei&

Meantime the procession was formed, and was by no meaitt on-picturesque. In front marched a pompous official, accompanied by a man carrying a spear, the badge of authority ; he was dose-ly followed by a knot of officials in a neat costume of a ooane-looking black gauze, like thick musquito-curtains. On their bacb or shoulders was stamped the imperial trefoil, or the private aims of the owner. Some were dressed exactly alike, others wore blue and white Hiresses ; but every individual was evidently in a uni-form befitting his rank and position. All these men, howereTt were probably servants, or quite subordinate officials; some car ried aloft umbrellas covered with large water-proof bags, and oth-ers lackered portmanteaus on poles over their shoulders. This was supposititious baggage. On each side of the procession walk-ed policemen in a sort of harlequin costume, composed of as many colors as if their dress was made from a patchwork counterpane: each of these men carried iron rods six or seven feet long, from the top of which depended a quantity of iron rings. Every time that this rod was brought to ^e ground with the jerk of author-ity, it emitted a loud jingle, which was heard far and wide through the crowds and was, I am bound to say, respected by them accord-ingly. Behind this vanguard we came, some on horseback and some in norimons ; and more men in black gauze, and umbrella-carriers, and variegated policemen, brought up the rear.

As for the crowd, it was wild with excitement; the inhabitants of every cross street and lane poured out to see us pass. The ex-citement of maid-servants in our own country, where the strains of martial music £sJl upon their ears, was nothing to it Thexe were

THE FAIR 8E2C. 371

mothen with small babies hanging over their shonlders, reckless of their progeny, hastening to swell the crowd ; children dodging under old people's legs, and old people tottering after children, and bathers of both sexes, regardless of the fact that they had nothing on but soap, or the Japanese substitute for it, crowding the doorways. The clatter of pattens was quite remarkable : as all the women wear high wooden pattens, which are very incon-venient to run in, and as women in Japan, as in England, formed the largest proportion of the mob, the scufUng they made added to the tumult Not that the people were the least disorderly ; they laughed, and stared, and ran parallel with us, till stopped by a barrier, for the Japanese are perfect in the management of crowds. In the principal street there are wooden gates about ev-ery two hundred yards, with a gatekeeper seated in a little house like a turnpike. The moment we pass this the gate is shut, and die old crowd is left behind to crane through the bars, and watch with envious eyes the new crowd forming. All the cross streets entering the main street are shut off from it by ropes stretched across them, under or over which the people never attempt to pass.

The crowd was, to all appearance, entirely composed of the shopkeepers and lower classes. The men were decently dothed, and the women wore a sort of jacket above their skirt, which was, however, constructed upon a rather negliji principle. The first impieasion of the fair sex which the traveler receives in a Japa-nese crowd is in the highest degree un£fivorable ; the ghastly ap-pearance of the faces and bosoms, thickly coated with powder, the absence of eyebrows, and the blackened teeth, produce a most painful and disagreeable effect Were it not for this abominable custom, Japanese women would probably rank high among East-cm beauties, certainly far beforo Chinese. All Japanese writers whom I have read upon the subject affirm that to have no eye-brows and black teetji is considered a beauty in Japan, and that the object of the process is to add to the charms of the fair one. The r»ult of my inquiry and observation, however, rather led me to form an opposite conclusion.

In the first place, young ladies do not, as a rule, neglect any means of improving their looks ; but no Japanese young ladies, even after they are " out,'' think of taking this method of increas-ing their powers of fascination ; they color their checks and lips, and deck their hair, but it is not unUl they have made a conquest

872 DISFIQUBEMEHT OF HARRIED WOMEN.

of some lacky swain, that, to prore their derotioii to hirn, th^ be-gin to blacken their teeth and pull out theii ejebrovB. He, priv-ileged being, is caUed upon to exhibit no such test of his afiection ; on the contrary, his lawful wife having so far disfigured herself as to render it impossible that she should be attractive to anj one eJse, seems to lose her charms for her husband as well ; so lie places her at the head of his establishment, and adds to it an in-definite number of handmaidens, who seither puU out theii eye-brows nor blacken their teeth ; hence it seema not difficult to at count for the phenomenon which is universally admitted, thsl while Japanese -^ivea are celebrated for their virtue, their hus-bands are tio less notorious for their licentiousness.

It is only fair to state that, in addition to black teeth and hue brows, a Japanese Lothario has the avenging dagger to deter him from intrigue, adultery in Japan being ponished by .the death oS both the guilty parties. But it must not be supposed that the ll-dies of Japan consider themselves a more ill-used race than thoK in other parts of the world ; so &r &om it, there is probably do Eastern country in which the women have so much liber^ or ench great social enjoyment. Polygamy is notpermitted, and, fromsll we could learn, the position of the ladies corresponds more nearly to that which they occupy in the West than in the East They are respected in society as lawful wives, and their children mherii whatever titles or property appertain to the family. To them be

JAPANESE FLEASUBE-FABTIES. 878

loDg all the privileges of legitimacy in a country where " family" » much esteemed : a matrimonial alliance is, consequently, a mat-ter of serious consideration to parents, and a good match much to be desired. Then these ladies are subject to no seclusion, but go to theatres, breakfasts, picnics, and even flower-shows, conducted after their own &shion. They are very fond of pleasure-parties on the water, and are skilled in the guitar, so that it is quite pos-sible to be sentimental in Japan even with black teeth. The la-dies are also said to be adepts at dancing, but the gentlemen look on instead of offering themselves as partners. We had, unfortu-nately, no opportunity of seeing any Japanese ladies, our time was 90 folly occupied ; and when I did at last obtain a promise from Moriyama to take me to his abode, we could not find a spare hour.

Fortunately, we did not digress so much from the main street of Yedo as I have from this account of our progress along it For at least two miles did we pass between two rows of human beings AX or eight deep, until at last, turning down a short lane, and pssBing between a pair of heavy wooden gates, which closed be-hind us, we entered a court-yard formed by a temple and its ad-jacent buildings, at one comer of which a number of servants were standing on the steps of a veranda waiting to receive us.

Here we dismounted, and exultingly took possession of our f\i-mre rendenco in Yedo.

S74 RESIDENCE OF THE BRITISH UISSION.

CHAPTER 26.

CHAPTER XXVL

Beddence of British MiasioiL — ^Flan of oar House. — Soft Matting. — Ji^Mnese Spitt. — Shingle Boofs. — The Princes* Quarter. — An obstmctiye Aristocracy.— Arga-ments on their side. — ^Evils of Civilization. — ^Bestrictions on the Nobles.— Falsce» of the Princes. — ^The Citadel. — ^Panorama of Tedo. — An imperial Banqoet— A shopping Expedition. — ^Fire-ladders. — ^We are mistaken for Chinese.— Btlluag-houses. — Handsome Lacker-ware. — ^A Silk-mercer's. — ^An active Polios.— Oips-ization of the Police Department. — Street Dogs. — Wild Deer.

The apartments appropriated to the use of the British nuasun were connected with a Buddhist temple, in which some descrip-tion of service seemed constantlj to be going on. Before land-ing, Lord Elgin had been requested to send in an exact list of the number of Europeans, including servants, b j whom he wis to be accompanied, and he accordingly furnish^ a requisition for accommodation for eighteen. This included a certain number of officers fix>m the squadron. Some of these occupie4 rooms usoal* 1 J inhabited by priests, immediately to the right on entering the outer yard. Our rooms formed one side of an inner coort, or rather garden, consisting of a lawn, in the centre of whidi was a pond covered with lotus, and containing a tiny island, appxx)ached by a rustic bridge. Yery large gold-fish floated lazily about on-der the broad lotus-leaves.

This agreeable retreat was shut in from the outer world by tbe temple on one side, and in all other directions by a high artificial bank, covered with shrubbery and pine trees, from between the lower branches of which, nevertheless, curious eyes might fie-quently be detected watching the movements of the mysteiioas strangers. The lower rooms were all divided from each other by paper screens running on slides, and movable at pleasure, so that they could be subdivided as circumstances required. By these means we procured a large dining-room, besides Lord Elgin's sit-ting-room ; and a spacious loft up stairs, in addition to the rooms below, furnished sleeping accommodation for the whole party.

Considering how short a time had been allowed our hosts to make preparations for our reception, it was quite wonderful how carefully they had forestalled our wants. They had first been

SOFT UATTINQ. ^75

nutde acqnunted with the reqainmenta of EaropeanB in the mat-ter of famitaie throagh Mr. Hania. Prior to that gentleman's rint, the government had sent privately to Simoda to have exact copies made of his ftimitare, bo that, oa reaching Yedo, he fomid, to his astonishment, ohaiis, tables, and beds, in a cit^ where all such articles had been previously unknown. So we were de-lighted to find not only beds, but mattresses, and mosqnito cur-tains, and comfortable dressing-gowns, of rather too thick a tex-ture, however, for t^e time of year.

On my dressing-table was a black lacker jng and bamn, bnt on 3 purely Japanese model, the jug like a small backet, the basin like a miniature tub ; besides this there was a black lackered to-baooo-stand, famished with pipes and tobacco. These stands are like small trays, and contain two compartments for tobacco ; one far fire, which is preserved in a glowing cake onder ashes, and one for the dischaiged remains of the pipes: these lie like pens in their own division. I had, moreover, a little window overlook-ing the residenoe of a Japanese fiunily of moderate means. From this poet of observation I eould see the children playing games, the mamma sewing, or busy with hoosehold cares, and listen to a young lady who used to be rather too fond of playing the lute.

All onr rooms were matted in the usual way with wadded mats, BO Bcmpulously clean that we began by walking abont in oar own or Japanese socks, for fear of dirtying them ; but it was so exceedingly troublesome to be perpetually putting on and kicking off onr shoes, that we ultimately sacrificed cleanliness to convemenoe. We fonnd, moreover, that a Japanese sandal was

'iltKl'iliWdil.ln

by no means ad^>ted to the tender toes of the West. These matt were all exactly the same size, so that there is never a diiB-cnl^ about getting Uiem to fit the apartment Each mat was six feet tbne inohea lon^ three feet two inches wide, and four inches

376 JAPANESE SPIES.

thick ; they were made of ricse or wheat straw plaited tightly. A mat has thus oome to be regarded as a standard measure in J^)-an ; and inasmuch as the rooms are capable of expansion or re-traction at pleasure by sliding the screens, and the mats are con-veniently small and movable, the internal fitting of a house is not a very elaborate process.

The bathing arrangements were perhaps the most complete part of the establishment. There were three bathing-rooms, eadi containing two large new wooden tubs, one of which was kept constantly supplied with hot, the other with cold water. There were buckets of all sizes for convenient douching and splashing.

As the Lieutenant Governor of Yedo was the high official it-sponsible for our good behavior, and for aU contingencies which might arise out of our sojourn in the capital, it was only natural that he should adopt the necessary precautionary measures. The large anteroom adjoining our apartments was accordingly filled with a numerous body of Japanese, told oflF ostensibly to wait upon us, but really to watch and report our hourly proceedings as well. These men swore allegiance to one Tainoske, an inter-preter of an inferior grade to the distinguished Moriyama, bat a most civil and obliging person ; nevertheless, he made up for a scanty knowledge of Dutch by an. anxious willingness, and an imperturbable temper, under sometimes rather trying dream-stances. It is due to his satellites to say that they were eqaallv amiable, and when caught poking their heads above the stairs to watch the process of the Briton going to bed, and ordered by him peremptorily to decamp, they always did so with smiles and bows, only, however, to peep at him again when the first opportanity offered. The excuse which naturally occurs to a Japanese when he visits your apartment is that he has come to clean something.

Some of our party inhabiting the rooms near the entrance gate-way were more highly honored. They were separated fiom an adjoining house only by a paper screen. One morning, while dressing, their attention was arrested by a scratching upon the paper, followed by a suppressed tittering. Upon investigating the cause, a pair of sparkling eyes were visible at two litde peep-holes expressly constructed : it was evident that a toilet, as per formed by an English gentleman, was a spectacle which afTorded intense amusement to the young ladies of the family next door.

The outer courtyard was a constant scene of bustle and ooniu-

SHIKGLE BOOFS.

877

soQ ; here were norimana and hones always m readiness, and a row of impromptu stables was run up daring oar stay with wonderful rapidity. I watched with astonishment the process of roofing them with shingles. A man crawled along with a basket under his ana full of shingles about three inches square, and a little thicker than wafers, and his mouth fall of wooden tacks : these he dJBgoTged, and tapped in with a small mallet with extraordinary Am and quickness, completing a water-proof roof in a very short time, but so fragile in appearance that it seemed as though a puff of wind would blow it away. The Japanese are very skillful baildei& The annexed wood-cat is a representation, by a native utist, of the mode of plastering a honse.

Ahogether we were well pleased with oar abode, and, having aeeo oorselves Mriy installed in it, the appetite for more novelty begm again to maJce itself felt, and we were ghid of the excuse which a visit to Count Pontiatine afforded as to sally forth onoe more into the streets of Yedo.

This time we soon tamed ont of the main street, and, leaving the dense crowd behind ns, dived into the Princes' or aristocratic

378 THE PRINCES' QUABTER.

quarter. We were amazed at the different aspect which the streets here presented £rom those we had just left ; the party-colored po-licemen did not think it worth while to accompany us, so small was the crowd that gathered as we went Belgravia in Septem-ber does not look more deserted than did these fashionable thor-ough£ures, so dull, clean, and respectable. On each side of the street, which was twenty or thirty yards wide, was an open pared drain, about four feet in depth and as many in breadth ; an abood-ant stream of running water carried off any impurities which might be thrown into it. These conduits looked moats in min-iature to the princely habitations tmder the walls of which they passed. The lower parts of these walls were built of huge blocks of rough stone, above which they were raised to the height d about twenty feet, constructed of masonry, but carefully white-washed, and ornamented with raised groinings. In the centre was a gateway painted red or some bright color, with a pent roo( and ornaments in lacker upon it Beyond this there was no soit of architectural pretension about these palaces, lliey evidentlj covered a large area of ground, as four or five were sufficient to compose a whole street, the walls of one residence extending for two or three hundred yards, and here and there perforated with windows, from between the bars of which peered female &oe&

We had no opportunity of inspecting the internal economy of any of these sumptuous abodes. They belong to a class who are for the most part unfavorable to the introduction of foreigners into Japan. With few exceptions, the old aristocracy of Japan dread the foreign element as possibly subversive of that infloence which they at present exercise in the government of the coontrj.

Knowing that these sentiments prevailed lai^ly, and were to some extent gaining ground in consequence of tiie concessions made in the treaty recently concluded with Mr. Harris, it was with some dismay that we heard that the enlightened prime minister, Bitsuno-kami, with whom that treaty had been n^otiated, had been turned out of office a few days before our arrival, and was succeeded by men known as prominent members of what might be called the Tory party of Japan. In &ct, we arrived imme-diately after a political crisis which had turned upon the foreign question, and in which the government of the day had been beaten.

As we rode past the palaces of these obstructive grandees, we

AK OBSTBUCnVE ABISTOCRACT. 879

(*oaId scaioely wonder at their opposition to the introduction of any disturbing element into the country. Had thej known as much of the civilization of the West as we did, they might, per* baps, have doubted about the propriety of excluding it Not be-ing so well informed, they argue probably in this way : " Our country supplies every want which is felt by the population that inhabits it Abundantly favored by Providence, we are depend-ent for no one single article upon our neighbors, and are still de-prived of none of the necessities or luxuries of life. Our large population, estimated at thirty-five millions, has, neverthdeas, bpaoe enough in the area furnished by these fertile islanda With the exception of a few orders of religious mendicants, abject pov-<*rty is unknown among us. The government is conducted upon a system which supervises all classes of the community, from the greatest man in t£e realm to the humblest individual in it; while, in order to the due protection of society, it requires a strict adher^ enoe to the criminal code, which punishes severely those who in-fringe it Thus the great mass of the people are happy and con-tented, while we, the nobles of the land, are by no means disposed to imperil the privileges attaching to our exalted position. Wc see no change by which either we or those beneath us can possi-bly be benefited. Wo desire nothing which we have not got It has not been proved to us that railroads or electric telegraphs make people happier. We tried the Christian religion, and it led 10 the destruction of thousands of our countrymen. Wo do not think our civilization wotQd be increased by a knowledge of the latest improvement in gunnery, or the newest invention for the 'lestruction of our feUow-creatures. We are contented with sakee, and desire neither brandy, rum, gin, whisky, nor any other spirit-uous production of progressive countries. We can bear to be de-prived of opium, a luxury the charms of which are as yet un-known to us. There are also a few diseases which do not exist among us, and the importation of which we do not think would iocrease our general happiness. At present our subjects arc peace-able and well-conducted, of an honest and simple nature, not given to brawling and quarreling ; but from what we have seen of the Europeans who man the ships coming to our country, we do not think this simplicity and tranquillity in our sea-ports would be likely to continue.* For these reasons we, the pig-headed aris-

* TW foflofiHiig aand from a late Hong Kong paper win oonflm the staiOMBt

380 BESTBICnONS ON THE NOBLES.

tocracj of Japan, do not desire to see that happy and Seiyored empire opened to the civilization of the West"

K such be their mode of reasoning, we can only pity their ig-norance and blindness, and refer them to the other side of the Atlantic for a definition of the term '' manifest destiny." It must not, however, be supposed that, because these princes are content-ed with their condition, it is such as would suit the aristocracy of other countries, except, perhaps, that of Russia. It has been, doubtless, the result of their own turbulence and insubordination that they are now so narrowly watched by the government^ and treated as though they were the natural enemies of the state. In former times Japan was divided into sixty-eight separate piinci-palities.' In consequence, as I understood, of the difficulty of keeping in order' some of these minor potentates, it was found expedient, when the opportunity offered, to subdivide their te^ ritories with a view of lessening their power, so that there aie now three hundred and sixty feudal princes of greater or less im-portance, each of whom is compelled to have a residence in Tedo, to live in the capital during six months of the year, and during the remaining six months to retire in s6litude to his principality, leaving his wife and &mily at Yedo as hostages for his good be-havior.

Besides these, there are about three hundred smaller divisions of territory, so that the empire is altogether divided into upward of six hundred fiefi. I could not exactly discover the nature of the tenure by which these were severally held. The original sixty-eight doubtless owed allegiance to the Mikado alone. Oth-ers hold of the Tycoon, or temporal emperor; while others ap-pear to be vassals to the larger princes, or, if not holding directly of them, at any rate recognize their ascendency, and are consider* ed so &r beneath them in rank as to be deprived even of the priv-

of the Japanese in this regard : " The sooner the consuls are at their posts in Japsa. and the treaties ratified, the better. The sailors from the ships are bringiDg mA disgrace on the foreign name. At the fire which occnrred at Dedma a few weeb back, they behaved most shamefidly, and it was known that thej had }dondersd dol-lars to a considerable amount. These they of course dedred to spend after tlie Jaci-on-shore fashion. They accordingly go on shore in quest of drink, and conunit •& those excesses for which their class, under such drcumstanoes, is nofeorioas. Sons of these sailors had armed themselves, and had taken refuge in the mountains, bos had been apprehended and sent back to their ships. The Japanese government were naturally much incensed at this, and the foreign community greatly grieved.** — Z>ai4^ Py«s«, Hong Kong, 21st of April, 1859.

PALACES OF THE PBINCE5. 881

ilege of having a wife and family permanently resident in the cap-ital Doubtless some of these princes are, practicallj, absolute in their own dominions, and set even the council of state at defiance. KangoDO-kami, who is the first prince in the empire ; Satsuma, whose daughter is married to the temporal emperor; Achino-kftini, and others, are not to be trifled wiUi, and do not allow gov-enunental interference in the internal management of their affidn. It is a hazardous office to plaj the spy in the capital of one of these magnates. Others, however, are less fortunate ; thej are compelled to submit to the supervision of two government secre-taries, who take it in turn to administer the affairs of their terri-tories.

The Prince of Satsuma was reported to have no leas than nine town-houses in Yedo, and he pays his annual visit to the capital acoompanied by an army of very respectable dimensions. It is VI ordinary thing for one of these princes to parade the country with a force of some thousands of men. When we remember that all these followers have to be lodged on the premises of their cbiel^ and that there are three hundred and sixty of these digni-taries, we can not wonder that their residences are necessarily ca-pacious, and cover a very great extent of ground. To judge from tbc noble trees we observed rising above the walls, spacious pleas-ure-grounds must be inclosed within them. The handsomest pal-ace I observed in Yedo was that belonging to Prince Achi. Sit-tiated on the steep side of a hill, the gates were tastefiilly orna-mented, the walls surmounted with trellis-work, and numerous magnificent plane and other trees drooped over them into the street, tempting one to effect a burglarious entrance, and explore, if possible, the sacred precincts. Occasionally, in the course of ^or explorations of the city, we met men of rank riding along one of those silent streets, their retinue taking up almost its entire length, consisting, as usual, of men carrying badges on long poles, the insignia of the rank of their lord, umbrellas in bags, and lack-ered portmanteaua When a great num wishes to move about "^nayboeh,'' or incognito, his retinue is not decreased, but these badges of his rank are packed up in the aforesaid portmanteaus. If the residence of Count Poutiatine, which we at last reached, wts in a more fashionable quarter than ours, it was neither so txnmodioas nor so picturesque. His excellency was having his auditmce with the prime minister, so we prolonged our ride toward

882 THE CITADEL.— PANOBAMA OF YEDO.

the citadel. Crossing a species of canal which, forms the outer moat, we continued to pass through a quarter still occupied bv the residences of the nobility, until we burst suddenly upon a view so unexpected and so remarkable in its character, that we could scarcely believe that we were still in the centre of a huge city, and that city the capital of an empire supposed to be in a state of barbarism. Standing on a broad terrace, we looked down some seventy or eighty feet upon a moat fifty or sixty yards in width, but expanding to a ^mall lake, covered with lotus, as it approached the precipitous causeway by which it was traversed A steep slope of grassy turf rose from the opposite edge of the water to an even greater elevation than that at which we were standing. Groups of trees fringed the water, and drooped their boughs into it; while a massive wall, constructed of blocks of stone almost Cyclopean in their proportions, crowned the high bank. This wall was in its turn surmounted by a wooden pdi-sade— the spreading branches of gigantic cedars, and the leafy crowns of numerous tall trees appearing above it, gave evidence of gardens and pleasure-grounds within.

Following along the margin of this gigantic ditch, the largest artificial work of the sort I ever saw, we reached the narrow causeinray w^ich affords ingress to this rus in urbe^ for from this point we were emphatically reminded that we were indeed in the centre of a vast city. We had now attained a considerable eleva-tion, and, except where the prospect was interrupted by the citadel itself, obtained an extensive panoramic view over the greater part of Yedo, extending in an endless series of house-tops in a souther-ly direction, and folly confirming the impression which was rapdly gaining upon us, that the capital of Japan must take a firstK^ position, in point of extent and population, among the cities of the world. The citadel alone is said to measure eight miles in circumference, and to afford shelter to forty thousand souls, which it may well do, and yet leave room for spacious palaces, and scenes of rural retirement and rustic beauty. As its imperial oc-cupant is too great a person ever to be permitted to pass into the vulgar world outside its walls, he is, poor man, entitled to as much space as can reasonably be afforded to him within them.

Beluctantly turning our backs upon the entrance to these for bidden precincts, we jogged homeward back through the quiet streets to where policemen again waited to take us in charge,

I

AN OCPERIAL BANQUET.

ooo

and crowds again pressed and scrambled to stare at ns; and so, thoroughly exhausted by oar first day in Yedo, to seek repose in the cloisters of our temple. We found, however, that another ordeal was to be passed before we could flatter ourselves that we aboold be left alone. The emperor had sent a Japanese dinner to his excellency, and when we arrived the floor of our dining-room was strewn with delicacies. Each person was provided with a little repast of his own, the exact ditto to that in which all his friends were indulging ; and when any body made a gastronomic discovery of any value, he announced it to the company ; so, at the recommendation of one, we all plunged into the red lacker cups on the right, or, at the invitation of another, dashed reck-le^y at what seemed to bo pickled slugs on the left. We found it dijficult even then to describe to each other the exact dishes we meant, how much more hopeless to attempt it now? There was a good deal of sea-weed about it, and we each had a capital broiled fish. With that, and an immense bowl of rice, it was impossible u> starve; bat my curiosity triumphed over my discretion, and I tasted of every pickle and condiment, and each animal and veg-etable delicacy, of every variety of color, consistency, and flavor : an experience fix>m which I would recommend any future visitor to Japan to abstain.

As the Japanese have neither pigs nor sheep, poultry, venison, and fish are the staples. Many of the religious sects in the coun-trj forbid the consumption of animal food. Meanwhile our lacker caps were abundantly replenished with hot sakee, a spirit extract-ed from rice, and of a pale-sherry color. It is by no means of a disagreeable flavor, though, when imbibed very hot, it is some-what intoxicating. We were thankful at last to get to bed aft«r <«) much excitement ; and if our rest was somewhat troubled, we had DO right to complain.

On the foUowing morning we started inunediately after break-bat on a shopping expedition. Turning to the left on entering the main street, we followed it for upward of an hour. As our hones stepped out well, I should judge the distance traversed to have been about four miles. Throughout its entire length, we posaed between crowded lines of spectators, and through a long series of barriers. I observed that we were preceded by runners, who went in advance to inform the ward-keepers of our approach. At most of the barriers a ladder was erected with a bell at the top

of it, to be rung in case of fire. These ladders present a fiingolw appearance as joa paas along the street, and look aa if they fonn-ed part of a show, and only waited for " the donkey." The housea were most of them built of wood, but tiled, and of two stories. The architectare of Japan, however, is so unpieteoding. that, although the streets are broad and clean, and thronged with passengers in the buainess quarter, they are by no means impoe ing. Here and there we pass a building higher than the resl. built of unbumt brick, with iron shatters. This is a fire-proof store, in which property can be stowed away in safe^ at the fiist tinkle of the fire-bell. Some of the houses are supplied with bjge tubs, kept constantly full of water, in anticipatioa of the Mine much-dreaded element

As the only foreigners of whom the untraveled inhabitants of Yedo have ever heard are the Chinese, we had the very high compliment paid os of beiog supposed to belong to that iavoivd nation ; so that, as in China you are called, as you ride along the streets, a barbarian or a " foreign devil," in Japan the gamine mn after you and say, " Look at the Chinamen l" " There go the

BATHIKG^OUSBa 886

Chinamen I^' while their commeicial instinct is betrayed by the shout, " Chinamen, Chinamen I have you any thing to aeU ?"

This trifling circumstance enables us forcibly to realize the ex-tent of that entire exclusion of strangers which has been for so long so jealously and successfully maintained. As we approach-ed the heart of the city the shops improved in appearance. They are open to the street, the wares displayed for the most part upon a counter being it We passed over three wooden bridges on piles, crossing branches of the Todagawa. Many of the shops Lave sign-boards on single posts, like those of public houses in England, inscribed with both Chinese and Japanese characters ; others have them written on pieces of cotton. The bathing-houses are all distinguished by a ds^k blue or black strip of cotton, like a banner, waving over the doorway. These establishments are always full of occupants, and I consequently observed no bathin;; in the streets as at Nagasaki. They differ slightly from those at Simoda. In that primitive town there was only one room for both sexes ; but at Yedo there was sometimes a partition about breast high to divide the ladies from the gentlemen. Over the bathing-rooms there are generally tea-rooms, to which the bathers resort when in that soothed and relaxed state which is produced by the abundant use of hot water, and, without troubling themselves about their personal appearance, refresh themselves with that most popular beverage.

At last, after a progress which seemed interminable, we arrived at a celebrated ladcer-shop, and were soon ushered up stairs to the *«baw-rooms. Here we found specimens of that numufacture fi&r superior to any thing we had seen either at Nagasaki or Simoda, the excellence consisting in the extent to which the design is raised upon the wood.

The varnish itself is extracted from a shrub called the Orrodno-i:i, or £hu8 vemix: it is said to be procured from incisions made ■m stems that are three years old, from which it oozes like the milk of the India-rubber-tree. It is tinted in a great variety of •»lon with coloring nu&tter, which is rubbed into it upon a copper :*late : it is then laid on in successive coats, and heavily embossed <n gold or silver.

The most common designs are the three emblems of longevity,

the tortoise, the stork, and the pine-tree. The Japanese are very

f^jod of chimerical animala Thus the tortoise is often represent-

Bb

g36 A SILK MEBC£R*&

ed with a large bushy tail ; in this fonn he is called MookL They are also fond of a &bulous monster with the head of a dragon, the body of a horse, and the hoo& of a deer. In addition to which, Fusi-yama, junks under full sail, or fishes lashing the wayes foii* ously with their tails, are very favorite subjects.

The charm of every thing we saw at Yedo lay in the fiEictof it? being purely for Japanese use. Every article was illustrative of the customs of the country. There were luncheon-trays, ladies' toilet-stands, arrangements for carrying fire, writing-cases, cabinet? to be presented on the occasion of weddings ; in fact, a host of patterns and contrivances, strange to our Western eyes, but ei-quisitely finished, and most elaborately ornamented with qtudnt and beautiful devices.

Having ticketed our purchases here, to be paid for in all doe form through the government money-changers afterward, we pro-ceeded to an extensive silk-shop upon the scale of Howell k James's. The whole of the lower story was open to the street and looked like a vast hall fifty or sixty yards long by twenty m width, intersected with counters nicely matted, and surrounded by shelves and drawers containing goods ; but the largest show-rooms were up stairs. Following obsequious shopmen to the upper story. we were soon seated on a low divan, covered with red cloth, when* a train of boys, carrying tea and pipes, made their entry, and pre-sented them to us on their knees. As sugar is considered a great luxury in' Japan, and is one of the few articles imported into the country, it is considered a mark of refinement to furnish eau mcri on these occasions ; but the most sentimental description of bever-age is hot water poured over rose-leaves. It requires a higfalv sesthetic frame of mind to relish a rosebud cocktail

While we are sipping our tea^ the whole floor has beocune strewn with silks, crapes, and embroideries of every descriptioi: of texture, shade of color, and brilliancy of pattern. The silks in Japan are said to be inferior to those of China, though to our in-experienced eyes they looked quite equal to theoL The gaozes and crapes would create a furor in England, particularly the for-mer, as the stuff is made of so stiff a material that it would an-swer the double purpose of a cage and a dress. The embroider ies were infinitely superior to any thing that China can produce: they are usually wod^ed on satin, and remind one rather of the Gobelm tapestry than of any modem embroidery. Many of the

OBOAmZATIOK OF THE POUCE DEPABTUENT. 887

patterns aod combiaationB of color show great taste. The Jap-anese are remarkable for the tarn-plicity and elegance of their taste in matters of dresa or ornament, as a general rale avoiding gaudy patterns, or any thing which, in the remacolar of the day, is known as "loud." Here is an ' old gentleman with speotaclea on ^ _._.._ . , . nose, whom a native artist, with some humor, has represented as engaged in designing patterns:

We quite regretted that all these curiosities of dress and mate-rial should be displayed before persons so little able to appreciate them. There can be no doubt that the contents of a Japaneoe fdlk-mercer's shop, transported to England, and exhibited to the fumole pnblie of our metropolis, would draw large and fashiona-ble crowds. While we were in despair about what to buy, and lost in perplexed speculation as to what would do for druses, I was amused in watching the humors of the crowd collected in the street below, waiting for our appearance. They were kept &om pressing near the doorway by a cord drawn in a semicircle round K. But a good deal of badinage went on ; and one man was so much laughed at that he got excited, and was about to resort to violent measures, when he was at once collared by the ever-vigil-ant police, his hands were fastened behind him, and he was walk-ed c^ in double-quick time, to the great amusement of the by-standers.

I also observed, for the first Ume, one or two carts of a veiy rode construction, and drawn by bullocks : but they are apparent-ly very little used in Japan. The lower orders, whose rank does not entitle them either to ride on horseback or to go in norimons, are carried by two men in a most uncomfortable sort of basket, which doubles their knees up to their chins, so that it almost gives one the cramp to look at them.

The whole system of municipal government in the cities in Ja-p«n Beems very perfect There is a mayor or governor, some of whoee emissaries lived in oar ante-chamber; and there are a cer-tain number of deputies to assist him, and a class of officials who teem to be the intermediaries between the people and those in

388 STREET-DOGSw

authority, and whose business it is to receive and present peti-tions, and to forward complaints to the gOTcrnors, and plead the cause of the aggrieved memorialists. Then every street has its magistrate, who is expected to settle all disputes, to know the most minute details of the private and public affairs of eveiy creature within his jurisdiction, as reported to him by spies, and to keep an accurate record of births, deaths, and marriages. He is responsible for all broils and disturbances, and for the good conduct of the street generally. This functionary is also provided with deputies, and is elected by the popular voice of the inhabit-ants of the street To render the task easier, the male household-ers are divided into, small companies of four or five each, the head of which is responsible to the magistrate for all the proceedings of the members. This complete organization is furnished with a secretary, a treasurer, a certain number of messengers, etc Be-sides the regular constables, it is patrolled at night by the inhabit-ants themselves, in parties of two or three. Ftom all whiidi it will appear that " our streets," in a Japanese city, must be a soaioe of considerable interest and occupation to its inhabitants.

The streets of Yedo are infested with dogs — ^not the wr^ched mangy curs of Constantinople or the pariahs of India, but siedi, well-fed, audacious animals, who own no masters, but who seem to thrive on the community, and bid it defiance. They trot proud-ly about, with ears and tail erect, and are most formidable to meet in a by-lane. These animals are held in as high veneration and respect as they were in former times in Egypt ; the most ancient traditions attach to them, and it is a capital crime to pat one to death. There are even guardians appointed for their protection, and hospitals to which they are carried in case of illness. Cer-tainly a long experience has taught them to profit by the immu-nity firom persecution which they enjoy. It is only due to them to say that, as a race, they are the handsomest street-dogs I ever saw. The only large animals in Japan are horses, oxen and oows, and bufGEdoes ; but milk, butter, and . cheese are unknown as a^ tides of consumption. There are no asses or mules, and scaroelj any pigs. The largest wild animals are deer, of which, however, there are yeiy few.

As the audience with the two chief ministers of state was fixed for the afternoon, we were obliged to hurry home to prepare for that important ceremony.

CONSTITUTION OF GOVERNMENT. $91

CHAPTER 27.

CHAPTER XXVIL

Coiatitatkm of Goferament.— **N«7boen/*— The Spy STifenL**— The CooacO of Suie.— A political Critt&— The ** Happy Dispatch. '^^Rnining a PoUtician.— The J^NUiaie toeial Scale. — A Visit to the Citadel — ^The Japanese Ministera. — Japaneie Flankics. — ^Tea and Sweetmeats. — Shopping in Tedo. — ^Dog Mania. — Oildal Visit of Commissionen.— Official Costume.— Ham and Champagne.— The fint Daj*s Conference.— Jocosity of Higo-no-kami — General Good-hnmor.

Before proceeding to describe our audience with the ministera of state, it will be necessary to give a brief sketch of the system uf government of Japan, dthough gathered from somewhat im-perfect sources ; for the communicative Moriyama was generally too busy to enter upon any detailed account of Japanese institu-tions; and, although he professed the utmost frankness in his in-terooorse with us, there can be no doubt that he shared the prej-udices and obeyed the instructions of his government in withhold-iDgfram us all the information in his power. It was rather from incidental circumstances, in the course of our negotiations, that we gathered some idea of the true source of authority in Japan*

Although nominally consulted in temporal matters, and jealous-ly distinguished from his temporal rival by the term emperor, the Mikado, or spiritual emperor, is in fact a mere puppet He occa-sionally receives visits of ceremony from the l^coon, and gives a formal sanction to matters of state, but generally votes the spiritu-al crown a bore before he has worn it very long, and, abdicating in &vor of a son, descends from the realms above, and passes a peaceful old age in this sublunary sphere.

The Tycoon, on the other hand, is ostensibly the administrator of the empire ; but he, too, has been exalted to so high a pitch of temporal dignity that his lofty station has been robbed of all its substantial advantages, and he passes the life of a state prisoner, ^huX up in his magnificent citadel, except when he pays a state visit to Miako. It was a cruel satire upon this unhappy poten-tate to present him with a yacht ; one might as well request the Pope^s acceptance of a wife. There is, indeed, a practice which "xists in Japan, and which may have extended to other countries, of doing improper things " nayboen," as it is caDed here ; in other

392 THE SPY SYSTEM.

words, in a recognized incognito. Whether, under this happy ar-rangement, the emperor sometimes slips out of his back door, 1 was not informed ; but it is certain that the nobles of the land avail themselves extensively of the latitude which it permits.

In a country governed by etiquette, and in which every indi-vidual is a slave to conventional rules of the most precise and rigid description, it is necessary to have a loop-hole which enables them to sink to the level of ordinary mortals ; in other words, to in-dulge their natural appetites for pleasure or vice. Under the con-venient system of " nayboen," a noble may do any thing which is not forbidden to the meanest subject If the emperor can not take advantage of '' nayboen" while he is alive, he can, as we aft-erward discovered, die ^' nayboen." This is a common practice among grandees, their death being kept secret until the next heir is firmly installed in the possession of the &mily dignity and honors.

The time of the emperor seems to be occupied with audiences, receiving reports, and other official formalities, and he is nonun-ally consulted, and his ratification obtained to every measure de-cided upon by his council of state. It is said that he is as nar-rowly watched by spies as any of his subjects. In &ct, the more we investigate the extraordinary system under which Japan is governed, the more evident does it become that the great princi-ple upon which the whole fisibtic rests is the absolute extinction of individual fireedom : to arrive at this result, resort is had to a complicated machinery so nicely balanced that^ as every body watches every body, so no individual can escape paying the penal-ly to society of any injuiy he may attempt to inflict upon it One most beneficial result arising from this universal system of e^ioD-age — ^for it extends through all classes of society — ^is the entire probity of eveiy government employ^. So far as we could Icam or see, they were incorruptible. When men can neither offer nor receive bribes ; when it is almost impossible, even indirectly, to exercise corrupt influences, there is little fear of the demoralizatioD of public departments of the state. In this respect Japan afforis a brilliant contrast to China, and even to some European coon-tries. So long as this purity exists, even though purchased at the cost of secret espial, there can be little cause to fear the decadence of the empire. Nominally not a constitution, but a despotism, the government of J&pan is practically an oligarchy ; but eveiy noble

THE COUNCIL OF STATE. 898

is watched by the spies and enthralled by the public opinion of his class, which he dares not venture to outrage. There is, in-deed, a council of state, composed of fire of the highest grade of the aristocracy, who are chosen by the Tycoon himself and a minor council, consisting of eight of the titular prince& All these •re under the strict surveillance of private spies, who report to their own masters ; and from the evident difficulty the commis-sioners found in conceding certain points to which the kamis or princes were avowedly hostile, the government probably stand in awe of that influential body. It was doubtless owing to the press-ure which the latter brought to bear upon the government of Bit-80-no-kami, the late prime minister, that he was compelled to re-mgn his office. It is a singular fact, that in Japan, where the in-dividual is sacrificed to the community, he should seem perfectly happy and contented ; while in America, where exactly the oppo-site result takes place, and the community is sacrificed to the in-dividual, the latter is in a perpetual state of uproarious clamor for his rights.

It is this councO, then, influenced by the public opinion of the aristocracy, which governs Japan. To it all official spies report ; they appoint all governors and secretaries for the administration of Uie affiiirs of provinces belonging to the crown and many of the princes, and are supposed to act as a check upon these latter, who are, however, in all probability, kept in better order by rival jeal-ousies than direct governmental influence. There is another body of men who possess great influence in the state ; these are the princes of the blood Should the Tycoon and his council differ upon any weighty matter of state government, the question is re-ferred for arbitration to a tribunal composed of three of these roy-al princes. Should they confirm the opinion of the council, the Ty-coon, to whom is denied the privilege of hara-kiri, or the " happy dispatch,*' has no alternative but to abdicate incontinently in fiivor of his nearest heir. Should, on the other hand, the umpires agree with their royal relative, which in all probability they do, unless public opinion is too strongly against them, then the whole of the cooncil are bound, without fiurther ceremony, at once to dispatch thetniielveB, in the happy manner peculiar to Japan, to those Elys-ian fields, where they will probably become distinguished as canon-ized kamis, and the patron saints of many a Japanese household Thia notorious method of suicide, the only Japanese custom

394 THE " HAPPY DISPATCH.''

with which the Western world has long been familiar, has of kte years assumed a somewhat modified form, and no longer oonsbts in that unpleasant process of abdomen ripping, which must liave been almost as disagreeable an operation to witness as to perfonn. My friend Higo-no-kami presented me with a knife proper to be used under the old system — an exceedingly business-like weapon about ten inches long, sharp as a razor, and made of steel of the highest temper. Now this knife is only used to make a slight in-cision, significant of the intention of the victim to put an end to himself. He has collected his wife and family to see how a hero can die ; his dearest friend, he who in our own countiy would have been his best-man at his wedding — stands over him with a drawn sword, and when he commences to make the aforesaid in-cision, the sword descends, and the head rolls at the feet of hisdisr consolate fiunily.

Whether this mode of suicide is really common at the presesit day, I could not ascertain ; no instance of it came to our knowl-edge during our stay ; and I imagine it is too serious a step to be taken except on very weighty grounds. These may arise either from fidlure or neglect in a public trust, or in consequence of the commission of some private injury. In some instances it seems to answer the purpose of a duel ; it is the reduction of that pne-tice to its logical conclusion, and terminates in the death of both parties by the hands of their firiends ; but more oonmionly it is re-sorted to as the means of preserving from disgrace a whole £un-ily, one member of which has in some way dishonored his name: it is a certificate which whitewashes all the survivors. A man who fears to &ce his destiny in this form, when the claims of hon-or demand it, places his entire family without the social pale. I am not aware wherein the Japanese points of honor consist, but we may assume that where the preservation of it in the individ-ual requires so great a sacrifice, the standard is proportdonably high — fer more so, probably, than would suit our views in En-gland, where it would be an exceedingly unpopular way of solv-ing a conslatutional difficulty. A ministry would always prefer a dissolution of Parliament to a personal dissolution of this na-ture. It is pleasanter to go to the country than out of it A mere change of government, even in Japan, however, does not involve these consequences, unless the Tycoon is implicated. Witness the stiU-living Bitsu-no-kami.

>

ItUIKING A POLinCXAK.— THE JAPANESE SOCIAL SCALE. 895

Perhaps it is because the " happy dispatch" is found to be an inconvenient way of settling personal or political difficulties that another mode exists of removing a dangerous person much more refined in its character. When a man becomes an object of dis^ trust or suspicion to the government, either fix>m his great influ-ence or wealth, he is promoted to some office generally at Miako, which he is compelled to accept, and which entails such a vast ex-penditure that he is inevitably ruined. Even if his means stand the first shock, one visit from the Tycoon, when he goes to pay his respects to the Mikado, completes the work.

Such is an imperfect outline of the system of government and of the constitution of the upper ranks in society. Although the conunissioncrs were called kamis, it did not necessarily follow that they were of princely rank, or belonged to the first dass of noble& Kiuni seems to be a generic appendage to the names of men of a certain rank, just as, in England, aU noblemen between the ranks of marquess and baron are styled lord. It is a tide which can not be used except by those of gentle blood. Next in order to the Saimios, or second dass of nobles, come the priests, who are in their turn foUowed by the first and second classes of officials, who are for the most part men belonging to the military grade, and have achieved their rank, and the privilege of wearing two swords, by their merit They are followed by the professional dass — merchants, traders, and peasantry. In addition to these social dis^ tinctions, there is a pariah or despised caste, consisting of tanners and others.

To return, however, to the council of state, each of the five min-isters of which it is composed are appointed by the Tycoon, and preside over separate departments ; they rank in regular order, and, among their other functions, to the two senior is committed the control of foreign affiurs. There were two gentlemen. Otto Bnngo-no-kami and another, whose acquaintance we were now about to make. Our morning had been so much occupied in the lacker and ralk shops that it was late in the afternoon before we Parted on a five-mile journey to the official residence of these dig-nitaries, which was just inside the farther gate of the citadel.

Our way, as usual, led us down the main street I made my first experience of a norimon on this occasion, and obtained a view of the crowd in a squatting posture ; for, while the train of ten norimons was passing, the people sat on their heels to obtain a

896 A VISIT TO THE CITADEL.

view of the occupants. As some of these were naval offioera in foil uniform, they exhibited signs of unusual satisfaction.

In order not to dirty the mats of our hosts, we were each pro-vided with a pair of sHppeis in which to scufSe across the yard, for it is not .etiquette in Japan for any but the owner of the house to go beyond the outer threshold in his norimon. At that pobt all guests are put down, and walk to the next entrance.

Passing over a bridge which spanned the moat^ and under a gateway of massive proportions, we found ourselves within the walls of the citadel at the opposite side fix)m that on which we had visited it in our ride of the day before.

Unluckily we had not &r to go, so that we saw scarcely anj thing of the interior of this interesting spot A broad street, sim-ilar to those in the Princes' quarter, led us to a handsome gate* way ; this, on one account, at all events, we were not a little re* lieved to find, was our journey's end, as the posture daring an hour and a half had been a trying one for British legs. Emei^g-ing from our box-like conveyances, we shuffled after Moriyama, who was always at his post Ascending some steps, at the top of which we relinquished our slippers, we passed through a series of ante-chambers, with walls of paper screens, until we were ushered finally into an oblong apartment, at the fiurther end of which, on the left-hand side, stood the two ministers behind two low square tables and six wax candles on single stands, for it was by this time 7 P.M. Exactly facing them were three tables and tax mxxt candles, behind which we took up our position. For some time we all remained standing, and the usual complimentary expresioDs were interchanged. Then, all having left the room except Lozd Elgin, Mr. Hewsken, and myself we sat down on chairs (an nnex-pected luxury), and proceeded to business. Moriyama, during aQ this time, was in a prostrate attitude on the floor between Lord Elgin and the ministers, touching the ground reverentially with his forehead whenever he was called upon to interpret Lower down, and remaining standing, were our friends the commiflNon* ers ; while in a sort of passage formed by a hanging screen behind the ministers were a row of people who ostensibly took no part in the ceremony, but some of whom were no doubt spies, while oth-eiB I observed occasionally prompting the ministers. These Ittter personages seemed somewhat embarrassed by the novelty of their situation, and gave one the impression of being very new to office.

400 SHOPPING IN TEDO.

supposed to nibble at these sweetmeats during the visit, bat the boxes, with all that remained in them, were sent after us to oar abode, so that we were enabled, for some days afterward, to retiie to the privacy of our chambers whenever we felt moved, and feast in secrecy upon their luscious contents. Our audience having at last come to an end, we took leave with many profound bows and polite speeches, and returned to our norimons, our companioDS having in the mean time been feasted with tea and sweetmeats in an adjoining room. . .

I was not sorry for the opportunity of passing through the streetB of Yedo by night The effect of our procession was very pictni* esque. In addition to the jingling police, we were accompanied by men bearing on high huge lanterns attached to poles.

Pretty lamps, painted in bright colors and covered with quaint devices, hung in clusters over the shops, illuminated the bath-houses, flared over street-stalls, or depended fix>m ropes slung across the side-streets. As the crowd seemed even more dense than in the daytime, the brilliant glare lit up their eager, curioos &ces and half-clad figures, and imparted a wild, uncouth aspect to the scene. It was nearly ten o'clock at night before we reached home, and we had as yet no reason to reproach ourselves with idleness or mactivity.

The representations which we had frequently made to our fiiend and guardian Tainoske, and the avidity which we manifested in the purchase of all Japanese articles of manufacture, induced that worthy to collect for our benefit, every morning, a number <rf ven-dors of lacker, china, and embroidery, who used to spread their wares in our verandas ; so that, during the earlier part of the day, they assumed somewhat the appearance of a bazar. In the enjoy-ment of this extravagant amusement, our mornings used to fly rapidly. Each box contained some specimen we had not jret seen. The china, in particular, was an endless source of interest, firom the variety of patterns and devices which it presented. On some of the cups were raised lacker representations of pleasure-boats, with tiny windows, on opening which a party of ladies and gentlemen drinking tea were discovered within, all on the minutest posdUe scale. At the bottom of other cups, a tortoise, beautifully exe-cuted in china, might be observed placidly reposing, until ^e tea was poured in, when he rose to the surface a most animated rep-tile.

OFHCIAL VISIT OF COHMI88IONEBS. 401

But the taste for China and the lage for hicker were nothing as compared to the mania for dogs. The dog peculiar to Japan, and which is supposed to have been the origin of the King Charles spaniel, does indeed bear a considerable resemblance to that breed : the ears are not so long and silk j, and the nose is more of a pug ; but the size, shape, and color of the body are al-most identical. The &ce is by no means attractive : the eyes are tisnally very prominent, as though starting from the head ; the forehoui is overhanging, and the nose so minute that it forms mther a depression than a projection on the &ce; the jaw is somewhat prominent, and is frequently so much underhung that the mouth can not be shut, in consequence of which the tongue protrudes in a waggish manner, at variance with the staring eye, which should, for the sake of consistency, be slightly dosed, with a tendency to wink.

When the great majority of our party had furnished them* selves with three or four of these prepossessing animals each, which were confined in kennels formed of paper screens up in <>ar loft, the consequences to an unhappy victim like myself, who had resisted their charms, were most trying. They used to de-molish their paper kennels with their teeth, quarrel with each other, howl dismally during the still hours of the night, or have ispasms. They were subject to weakness and violent cramp in the loins and hind legs, and then their owners used to devote the smaU hours of the morning to fomenting them with hot water, and wrapping them in warm flannels. In spite of all their efforts, .^ome of these delicate little creatures ^icd, to the inexpressible CTief of those who had listened so often to their nocturnal whin-:ugs. Even in Yedo, the price of a handsome pair of these dogs u as much as fifty or sixty dollars, so that it is worth while to sit up at night to alleviate their sufferings.

In accordance with the arrangement arrived at on the preceding <iay, the six conmiisBionerB appeared a little before luncheon, in order to exhibit their full powers, and enter upon the prelimina-ries of the treaty. They were dressed in the official costume used upon state occasions, and which was remarkable for its sim-plicity. The &shion and color of their garments are all pre-scribed by a rigid code of official etiquette. A pale straw-color IS considered full dress; this, combined with pale or dark blue and bhickf are the orthodox colors on state occasions. On gala-

Co

402 OFFICIAL COSTUME.

dajB their costnme is somewhat more gaxidj and fiintastie. We had an opportunity, before leaTing, of seeing them thus sttiRd; on their ordinary official visite, however, they wore a sort of tm-dreas or riding coetume. This difiers from full dress in the cat of the trowsers, which admit of the legs being widely sepanted. an impoamble achievement in their b^ clothes. They also, Id riding, dispense wiUi the light gauze sort of habit shirt, whidi is thrown over the rest of the costume, and, projecting at the Bhonl* der like wings, tails in long bands in &onL In formal salatatioDS, it is the correct thing to stoop until the ends of these bands loocb the ground.

The Japanese seldom wear any thing on their heads except when liding. The head is shaved on the crown, and the side and back hair brought forward in a roll abont the thickness of a BmaU sausage to the top of the forehead ; here it is firmly gmmned down with a species of bandoline, in the mano&ctnre of whlcd the Japanese are very pioficienL Wigs are common in the ^^ shops, but are only worn as a p«i ■^^ of a masquerade dress. Not a pard-^^^^^^^HH) ole of hair is ever allowed to appeai ^^^^^^^^^VS on their fiicea. The winter costame ^^^^U^^^^^^HB consists in robes cut like dressing ^^^HH^^^^^HH gowns, padded throughout with alk ^^^^^^^^^^^^m wadding. These unwieldy articks ^^^^^^^^^^^V of attire are also used upon state oc-^^^^^^^^^^M caaions, and are a standing item in ^^^^^^ the list of imperial presents to a for-^^^^^^m eign mission. But the most m.^-•^^^^^^^ lar portion of their apparel are the AjipuwHWis. trowseiB which they wear at their

audiences with the Tycoon ; they seem to be cut upon a princi-ple precisely the opposite to that which regulates our courtdrea We consider that when we have brought oiu- nether gannemt down to the knee, we have not only satisfied decency, but reach-ed the highest pitch of refinement and el^ance. 'Die great ob-ject of the Jq)anese is to create an entire misconoeptjon in the mind of the spectator as to the situation of that important joint : he wishes it to be supposed that he shuffles into the royal pne-enoe on his knees ; bat, finding that process attended with much practical inconvenience, he compromises the matter by bavii^ ^

THE FIBST DATS OONFEBENCE. 406

tiowsen made about eighteen inches longer than his I^ ; bj these means his feet are made to represent his knees, and he is enabled to walk upon them comfortably with his sham legs drag-ging after hioL

The oommissionerB brought us the intelligence that, the Tycoon bdng childless, he had within the last few days adopted a son. This lad was to be his successor; and in the event of his subee* quently haying a son of his own, he would be compelled to give him away rather than dispossess the adopted one. The choice of adoption is confined to the sons of six of the princes of the blood. What amount of truth there was in this infonnation we had not at the time any opportunity of judging.

Before proceeding to work, our guests sat down with great readiness to luncheon, and made formidable inroads upon the ham, the dish of all others which they most highly appreciate. They also indulged freely in Champagne ; indeed, so conscious were they of the risk attending these libations preparatory to en« tering upon business, that Higo fiicetiously expressed a hope that the Treaty would not taste of ham and Champagne.

After luncheon we adjourned to Lord Elgm's sitting-room, where his excellency and the commissioners seated themselves round the table and mutually exhibited their fiill powers. While some necessary details involved in this process were being trans-acted, Mr. Bedwell took the opportunity of making the accompa-nying characteristic and truthful drawing — a fact which Higo no sooner remarked than, seizing a pencil and paper, he proceeded to caricature the artist, and suddenly interrupted the proceedings by triumphantly producing a very fiur attempt at a likeness.

Now that we had really settled down to work, every body lighted a pipe or a cigar, and although, as regarded from a retl-tape point of view, the general aspect of the scene may have been somewhat informal, a great deal of business was accompli^ Hed. It was necessary, however, to get over a difficulty in the nrst in-stance, arisbg from the necessity which the conmiissioners felt of being watched. It was an unnatural thing for them to transact busineas except in the presence of government and private spies, ao they formally requested that a certain number of these gentry should be allowed to be present during the conferences. This was of course objected to by Lord Elgin, his excellency remark-ing that there were already six Japanese commissioners to one English minister, and that any farther accession of force on the

406 JOCOSITT OF HIGO-NO-KAMI.

Other side would be manifestly quite unfEdr. On which the com-missioners neatly enough replied "that it did indeed take six Japanese heads to cope with such an English head as they saw before them, and that, in fact, they felt quite unequal to the task." The matter was ultimately compromised by the preaenoe of one secretary being allowed in addition to the indispensable Moriyama.

We were now able to enter upon the body of the treaty, and very soon discovered that the commissioners manifested the great* est acumen in the discussion of points of detail, never restiog sat-isfied until they thoroughly comprehended the roiifmalt of eveiy question raised. Once, indeed, so serious a difficulty arose that, to create a diversion, some one proposed that we should have some cha (tea), upon which Lord Elgin suggested cha^^ne, an amenddient which caused infinite merriment, and which was car-ried by acclamation. The Japanese have a keen appreciation of the ludicrous, and many a knotty point was solved by ion mot; indeed, to judge by the perpetual laughter in which they indtQge, they are forever making jokes. Higo was the wit of the party, and was often, in consequence, not only inattentive himself^ bat apt to distract the attention of the others. It was evident in the twinkle of his eye when he was meditating a pun. His observa-tions, nevertheless, upon business matters, whenever he ccmde-scended to make them, were always shrewd and to the point The following are the names of the six commissioners, as written down by him in the English character upon a &n which he pre-sented to me. The spelling is his own.

1. Midjmats-ko-goni-kami (formerly Grovemor of Nagasaki^

2. Nagai Gkmbono-kami (the admiral).

8. Inogge Sinanono-kami (Gbvemor of Simoda).

4. Iwase Higo-no-kami.

5. Holi Olibeno-kami.

6. Tsuda-handzoboro.

The admiral was the most intelligent and active member of the party ; and when he and the ex-Governor of Nagasaki werr* agreed the rest seldom fiuled to follow their lead.

Altogether we had every reason to be satisfied with the result of our first day's conference ; it inaugurated a series of meetings invariably characterized by the utmost harmony and good-humor and which must recall to the memory of those who participated in them many agreeable associations and pleasant reminisoences.

A BIDINCkPABTr. ^ffj

CHAPTER 28.

CHAPTER XXVllL

A Ridiar-pwtf.^Bemtj of the SnbnrlM.— A plwwm Teft-hoofe. TeH(ard«M at Ucjfbt^^K pictoniqiie Picnic — Internal Armagenieiito of a Tea-hooie.— A B«tb» iag-iooBL — Soenerj of the Interior of Japan. — ^The Botanical Gardena. — A Viait to the Prime Ministers. — ^The Commisuonen at Luncheon.— "The SconndreL** ^-S^oola at Tedo.— Linguistic Acqnirementi of the Japanese. System of na-tkMMl Edaeatlon.— Japanese LtteratQre.^The Pottage Sjstem.— The Japanese fiwignafle : its Coaatniction.--Univeiaal ose of Piqier.«— Ingnaitj of the Jap>

It had been arranged with the commisEdoners that Lord Elgin should make a trip into the country upon the daj following the exchange of full powers. Our destination was a summer resort about ten miles distant, called Hojee, where prettj scenery, botan-ical gardens, and well-appointed tea-houses were the attractions. Aooordingly, immediately after breakfiist our steeds appeared at the door, and we started off, a party of eight or ten, in that enjoy-able frame of mind which is produced by pleasurable anticipa-tions. For the first four or five miles our way led us through the town, along the castle moat, past the point at which we again ob-tained a panoramic view of the city, and on through more wind-ing streets, which we had not before explored, and which seemed interminable, ^t last we got dear of the more crowded thorough-Cares, and found ourselves traversing pleasant suburban lanes, passing the spacious palace of the most powerful prince in the empire, Eagano*kamL The outer walls of this establishment in-close an immense area of ground, and contain buildings which are said to afford accommodation to ten thousand men. The groves of lofty trees which towered above the walls gave token of the beauty of the gardens within them. Many of the streets and roads which we traversed were lined with peach and plum trees ; •a the period of the year when these are in full blossom, they must form a most charming and fragrant avenue.

We were filled with astonishment and delight at the exquisite taste displayed in the gardens and cottages upon the roadside. Xo model estate in England can produce "cottages om<?es" com-parable to those which adorn the suburbs of Yoda We always

408 BEAUTY OF THE SUBURBS.

fidl in our detail ; there is a want of that minuteness which the Chinaman glories in until he becomes grotesque. The Japaaeee have hit the happy medium. With an elaborate deUcacj of de-tail, they combine the art of generalization in design, so that the relation of the parts with the whole is maintained throughout, and the general effect is not sacrificed to minor beauties. These charming little cottages, raising their thatched roofs amid the fruit-trees and creepers which threatened to smother 4iem is their embraces, were surrounded by flower-beds tastefully laid out, resplendent with brilliant hues, and approached by walb between carefully-clipped hedges. Yew-trees, cut into fiuitastk shapes, and dwaifed trees, extending their deformed arms as if for assistance and support, are favorite garden ornaments. Here and there, at the end of a long avenue, we could discern a temple «n-bowered amid trees ; and ancient priests in gauzy and transparent costume, with broad embroidered belts and sashes, and enonnoas lackered hats, would hurry to the entrance to see the stmngers pass. The beauty of the cemeteries was in keeping with the taste displayed in every thing else ; here walks wound amid flowering shrubs and drooping cypresses.

We could always judge of the respectability of the quarter through which we passed by the size and character of the crowd which accompanied us. In some parts of the suburb we were followed by a noisy mob, who pressed upon us cheering and laughing — ^not, however, showing any signs of ill-wilL Some of our party, on the previous day, not attended by a sufficientlT large body of policemen to inspire awe, passing through some of the less reputable parts of the town, had been hooted, and even pelted, the crowd calling out, *' Chinamen, Chinamen 1 have yon any thing to sell?" a circumstance for which the oommissioneis never ceased apologizing, while they took occasion to impress upon us the necessity, which we were always anxious to foiget of never moving about unless accompanied by a proper staff of police. Upon this occasion we were attended by twenty oflSdals, in a black gauze uniform, who marched in front of u& As we were desirous not to lose time, and our steeds were wilUng,8ome of the elder members of this party were knocked up before we got to the half-way tea-house, where we changed our escort.

As we got &rther from town the cottages became more scatter ed, but the country did not lose its air of civilization. Groves of

A PLEASANT TEA-HOUSE. 411

tall trees overahadowed the road, apparently bordermg some or-namental grounds, for they were inclosed by palings exactly re* aembling those of our own porks.

The tea-house at which we stopped to rest was situated in a garden where sparkling water gushed out of mos^ grottoes, and quilted mats invited to repose. Here pipes and tea were served by fiur damsels, who also pressed upon our acceptance unripe peara. Beyond this tea-house we found ourselves fairly in the country ; we had exchanged the suburbs of London for the lanes of Devonshire.

Although the country was undulating, the road was neither too steep nor too narrow for wheeled vehicles. Sometimes it passed between high banks crowned with hedgerows and shrubs, among which I observed the holly. With the exception of groves of trees, left doubtless for a special purpose, and which served to diversify the prospect, every acre of ground seemed cultivated This is probably partly in consequence of a law compelling eveiy man to cultivate his land within the year, upon pain of forfeiting it. Fields of yams and egg-plant or brinjall, of beans and Indian-corn, millet and onions, alternated with each other in rapid sue-cession. At eveiy clump of trees through which the road passed were resting-places for all classes of travelers — simple benches under the gnarled branches of some venerable oak or plane tree for humble wayfarers, and little tables with fruit and tea set out in the cool shade ; or summer-houses, composed of a single hut, with the same invariable beverage hot and ready to refresh the thirst of the weary pedestrian ; or an establishment of greater pre-tensions, where men of rank might stay and rest

At last we suddenly descended into a dell where a charming village lay embosomed in a wood. It consisted of a few cottages^ and a tea-house on a grand scale. At the entrance to this estab-lishment we dismounted, much to the edification of the whole population of the village, who assembled to stare and wonder at na. We found the tea-house situated on the edge of a brawling stream, the balconies of the upper rooms overhanging the water. Hanging woods and gardens, tastefully laid out with rock- work, and yew-trees cut into quaint shapes, fringed the bank of the river, to the point at which it entered the grounds in a picturesque cascade. Taking possession of a sunmier^house perched on a projecting point, and which commanded a charming view of the

412 INTERNAL AEBANGEMEKTS OF A TEA-HOUSE.

surrounding objects, we signified to a group of young ladies, who came to look at us under the pretext of waiting for orders, our desire to be fomished with some luncheon.

We were not kept long in waiting for our meal, which coDsist-ed of some excellent vegetable soup, and some rice and fish. By way of dessert we had marshmelons, apricots, and pears, so that we had no difficulty in satisfying the cravings of hunger. We foimd that these gardens were a £sivorite resort of pleasure-parties from Yedo of the highest rank. When any grandee wi^es to enjoy a domestic treat of this sort, accompanied by his wife and family, he gives a previous notice of his intention to the keeper of the tea-house, so that a dignified privacy may be secured to him. There, screened from the vulgar gaze, he and his compan-ions give themselves up to the enjoyment ^v^iich this species of recreation affords. Their wives play, dance, or sing for their ben-efit; in fiact, so far as I could gather, they behave very much as we do when we are working off the fag-end of the season in pic-nics to the Star and Garter, or Hampton Court. I was not able to discover, however, under what conditions the unmarried mem-bers of society were allowed to partake of these amusements.

If any aristocratic picnic was going on during our visit to Ho-jee, we were not fortunate enough to get a glimpse of it We did, nevertheless explore the internal economy of the establish-ment Unfortunately, it not being the custom for the guests to go into the kitchen, I was ignominiously expelled from that de> partment just as I was commencing my investigations into the ar-rangements by which so large a number of guests were kept con-stantly supplied with every description of Japanese delicacy, and tea in rivers. I had only time to find myself encompassed by a bevy of active, bustling waitresses, and to catch sight of huge steaming caldrons, whe^ a strong-minded old woman showed me the door with a soup-ladle. The accompanying illustration, taken on the spot by Mr. Bedwell, will convey a better idea than any description of the interior of the public rooms, and of the costume of the attendants. The complexions of many of these girb were quite as figdr as those of our own countrywomen. In waiting, tfieir manners are graceful and respectful. Almost every thing is served in lacker, and is presented in a reverential attitude The guests sit dotted about on the mat till they have done dinner, when they lie down to smoke, sip tea, and digest According to

A BATHHiO-BOOX. 415

Oolowniii, the T&muh with which the lacker is compoeed is poi-ton. Not oolj is it perfectly free bom soy injarioas effect on this account, bat, although the hottest tea may be serred in lack-er caps, it is impossible to detect the slightest fiavor of the var lush.

Whether the tea ctf Japan is actually superior to that of China, or only prepared in a different way, I had no opportunity of jodging ; but the flavor Btrack me as much more delicate. Ac-cording to Siebold, the plant is manored with dried anchovies, and a liqaor pressed out of mustard-seed.

One method of preparing the tea is by keeping it constantly baling. Enough of tea leaves are put into the kettle for the day's oODsampdon, and the decoction is never taken off the fiie. This is, however, generally only used at wayside refieshment-bDoaeB.

We did not observe any of it growing, as it is said that the plantations are generally remote &om the habitations of men, lest they should be injured by smoke, or any other deleteriooa emana-tjonn.

Attached to the tea-house was a bathing-room oontaioing a sin-guhu- oval depletion in the floor, to which the bathen confine themselves daring their ablutions, as outlets are constructed for

416 SCENEBT OF THE UTTEBIOR OF JAPAN.

the escape of the water. Hot water is abundaiitly pronded, while the cold flowed in a perpetual cascade from a greea grotto in the wall.

Leaving Hojee, we rode up to the brow of the hill behind the village. To do so it was necessary to diverge from the high road, and gallop across a greensward dotted with handsome paric* like trees. Our attendants, not prepared for this sudden escapade, ran breathlessly after us, vehemently remonstrating, and pasBing their hand across their throats, as an indication that our transgres-sion would be visited upon them with ammnary pmushment; but our curiosity to obtain a view fix)m our elevated position over-came our scruples on their account, and we were well repaid for our want of humanity. The prospect upon which we feasted our gaze more nearly resembled that firom Bichmond Hill than any other with which I am acquainted. Beneath us was a winding river, now hidden among thick woods, now shining in the broad light of day as it emerged upon grassy fields. Beyond, as far as the eye could reach, the country was richly cultivated and cham-ingly diversified, while here and there the smoke of a town or hamlet imparted an air of animation to the view. It was a moat tantalizing sight, and we longed to ezplore the unknown scenes which lie still un visited in the heart of this magnificent coontrj.

It is some consolation to know that the interior of Japan will in all probability, ere long, be laid open. By the late treaty it ia re-served to the consul general and his immediate stafl^ and to them alone, to travel to any part of the empire. We know, firom the accounts of the Jesuits and the Dutch missions, how many objects of interest there are at Miako, and other places upon the main route to Nagasaki, but our curiosity has been chiefly stimulated by the illustrations contained in the Japanese picture-books of the most striking features in their scenery. The Japanese are one of the few so-called uncivilized nations who really seem to have an iatoi-tive appreciation of the picturesque. Even the Chinese, who oc-casionally venture upon representations of scenery, choose some uninteresting subject, and invariably make it subservient to a scene of domestic or military life in the foreground, displaying, moreover, an entire ignorance of perspective; but the Japanese portray the grandest scenic features of their country evidently for their own sake alone. Water^ls und precipices, pictoresqae vil-lages perched on overhanging cliflw, or rocky ledges running oat

THE BOTANICAL GABDEH& 417

into die sea, are favorite sabjectB, and execated with a much more correct notion of art than haa been attained in the sister empire. From the views which many of these books contain, there must be aoeneiy in Japan worth a pilgrimage to that distant island, were ii for no other purpose but to visit it Even our followers seemed to think it natural that we should wish to linger on the green edge of the hill^ to take a long last look at the widespread proq>ect before us, but they were evidently relieved when we slowly ^umed our horses' heads into the narrow path which was to lead us to the botanical gardens.

A thick grove of overhanging trees afforded a grateful shade fiom the rays of the August sun, while little wicket-gates opened off it into gardens that formed a setting of flowers to the cottages in their midst The botanical gardens themselves did not exact-ly correspond to our notions on the subject There were neither fine old trees in great variety, nor a large and curious collection of all descriptions of plants. The rage of horticulturists in this country seemed to be grasses, mosses, and ferns of all sorts, added to which there was an extensive assortment of dwarfed trees. In* stead of glass green-houses, there were long mat-sheds for the more delicate specimens ; while ranged upon stands, as in England, were quantities of porcelain pots of various shapes and colors, but generally blue, with a piece of rock in the centre, and a root of grass or moss growing round it But a Japanese gardener chiefly prides himself upon his skill in dwarfing. The most venerable forest-trees may here be seen in flower-pots, their old stems, gnarl-ed and twisted as if writhing under the torture of distortion, per-h^)s scaxoe two feet high, while their unnatural branches spread out laterally like the fingers of a deformed hand. One of the Dutch factory told a story of a box three inches long by two broad, containing a fir-tree, a bamboo, and a plum-tree in full bloBBom, which was sold for a sum equal to twelve hundred dol-hira. There was a pine wood behind the gardens, with some pleasant retreats in it, and artificial hillocks crowned with sum-mer-houses. These gardens are also a very fiivorite resort for pic-nics from Yedo.

Onoe more swinging ourselves into our uncomfortable saddles, we jogged home, a weary three hours' ride ; but we had been am-ply repaid for our &tigue by the novelty and interest of the day's

Dd

418 A VISIT TO THE PRIME MINISTERS.

On the following morning we paid another visit to the chief ministers of state, as Lord Elgin wished to make feather arrange-ments with reference to the delivery of the yacht, and to introduce Captains Barker and Osbom, and Commander Ward, in whose charge she had come out from England. The ceremony differed in no respect &om that of the previous occasion, except that it took place in the daytime. The ministers were anxious to know the ^fference between a man-of-war and a yacht ; and then there was some discussion as to the salute which shoidd be fired by the Japanese, they having never, upon any previous occasion, saluted a foreign flag. The ministers took the opportunity of expressing, on behalf of the Tycoon, his regret at not being able to see Lord Elgin, but it Was suggested that his excellency might have an au-dience with his son, a lad of thirteen years of age. This proposal Lord Elgin did not deem it expedient to accept

We reached home just in time to receive the commissioners for luncheon. They expressed themselves extremely embarrassed at always arriving at our luncheon hour — " they really could not think of partaking of any to-day — ^it would seem so very much as if they had come for ham and Champagne." Lord Elgin, how-ever, answered them that no such suspicion had ever entered his head ; and that, unless the proper amount of ham and Champagne had been consumed, it would be impossible to proceed with the treaty. This argument seemed at once to decide them ; and they had evidently fasted carefully, in order to a more thorough appre-ciation of the meal they pretended to repudiate. After luncheon we had no difficulty in getting through fifteen articles, by which Moriyama was the only sufferer, for he was engaged in making duplicate copies in Japanese and Dutch. One day Lord Elgin asked him whether he had nearly finished copying the treaty ; but Moriyama was too good an interpreter to give a direct answer to any question in the presence of his superiors ; so, turning to the commissioners, he asked them, " Has Moriyama nearly finishei! copying the treaty ?" Upon which they gravely replied, after consultation with him, " No, Moriyama has not yet finished copy-ing the treaty, but he is getting on with it as fast as he can."* When an inferior in Japan is in conversation with a superior, the correct posture for the former is to rest his hands upon his knees and remain slightly stooping — ^practically, this is abbreviated into A rapid slipping of the hand down the thigh to the knee, a gesture

<<

THE SCOUNDREL.**— SCHOOLS AT TEDO. 419

which Moriyama used constantly to perform, accompanying it with a noisy inhalation of the breath, as if he had just sucked a sherry-cobbler through a quill, and was relishing it still.

But we made another acquaintance at Yedo even more note-worthy than Moriyama. lie was popularly known as "the Scoundrel," but his real name was Tanjeram. This man appear-ed in our garden one evening, and astonished us all by sp^Jdng English without any perceptible accent, using very long words, and informed us that he was in the habit of taking lunar observ-ations, lie farther asserted that he had never been out of Japan in his life, and that he acquired his knowledge of the English lan-guage at a school at Yedo. This school he described as being at-tended by Japanese desirous of learning foreign laiiguages, which they were taught by professors, who had qualified themselves by study for the purpose. With all our respect for the intelligence and advancement of the Japanese, this was rather more than we could accept, and we could gain no corroborative testimonyon the subject, so that I have no doubt it was a pure piece of invention on the part of Tanjeram, who had evidently, by some accident or other, passed some years of his life in the United States. lie stoutly denied that such was the case, and he spoke with a slight nasal twang, making use of expressions which he certainly must have acquired from a professor who had studied the '* American'' and not the English language. The expression of his face was totally different firom that of any other Japanese I ever saw. There was a mixture of cunning and insolence in his manner for-eign to the nature of his countrymen, and which indisputably proved that he had lived long enough abroad to substitute the manncrB of Western civilization for those of Japanese barbarism. But, although we took leave to doubt the existence of profess-ors of European languages at Yedo, there is no question about the advanced state of education, and its wide diffusion throughout the empire. Dutch is certainly taught at Yedo as well as at Nagasa-ki ; and pupils who have studied the latest mechanical and scien-tific inventions at the latter place under the Dutch, come to the capital as teachers. Thus they are competent to manage their o'wn steam-engines, and to navigate their own ships, working their course by observation. They are extremely sensitive at being Huppoflcd incapable of acquiring any branch of knowledge which

by others, and have a veiy high estimate of their

420 LINGUISTIC ACQUIREMENTS OF THE JAPANESE.

powers in this respect. This was amusingly illustrated in a dis-cussion which took place as to the language which should here-after be the medium of official correspondence. '^ Oh," said one of the conmiissioners, " you had better make English the official language ; there is no telling how long it will be before you wiB be able to write a dispatch in Japanese ; but give us five years, and we shall be quite competent to correspond with you in En-glish." This affords a striking contrast to our experience at l^en-tsin, where we found such difficulty in inducing the Chinese to accept the English as the official language, even as a prospective arrangement — one, indeed, which I have little hope of ever sedi^ carried out ; for, even if a Chinaman could be induced to study a foreign language, he is so utterly destitute by nature of the &cq1-ty of acquiring any tongue but his own that a lifetime would be spent in the vain attempt During the whole period of my stay in China I did not meet a single native who could speak, read, and write English correctly.

In Japan, on the other hand, there is a rage for the acquisitioQ of every description of knowledge. A Chinaman thinks that any study but that of the Confucian books is degrading, and treats every modem invention with an air of calm contempt Probablj he contends that the art has long been known in China ; so that if you were to show him a railway, he would most likely say, '' Hab got alo same that Pekin side, only two tim more chop chop can go."* A Japanese, on the other hand, is full of zeal and ca> riosity. He examines and asks questions about every thing with* in his reach, carefully noting the answers.

Pdre Charlevoix says that in the time of Xavier there were in the neighborhood of Miako four academies, at each of which edu-cation was afforded to betwe^ three and four thousand pupils, adding that, considerable as these numbers were, they were quite insignificant in comparison with the numbers instructed near the city of Bandone, and that such institutions were universal through* out the empire. Mr. Macfarlane, quoting finom M. Meylan, a more recent authority, states that children of both sexes and of all ranks are invariably sent to rudimentary schools, where they learn to read and write, and are initiated into some knowledge of the his-tory of their own country. To this extent, at least, it is consider-ed necessary that the meanest peasant should be educated.

* Anfflki—We have got the same at PekiB, onfy it goes twice as qukkl/.

JAPAKXBB UTEKATDBE.

421

From tluB aoooimt, which was oorroborated by all I oould gather npos the sabject, it will i^>pear that a more widelj-difEiifled ay»-tam of natiooal education exists in Jttpaa than in oar own coun-try, and that in that respect, at all events, if in no other, they are decidedly in advance of us. Oftea in passing along the streets I heard the pleasant babble of children learning their lenons.

Cloeely oonoeoted with this sabject is that of the literature of the ooontry ; but upon this head it was difficult to collect infonn-atioQ — still niore so to obtain books. Although boolc-st«UB were numerous, and their contents were temptingly displayed toward the street, whenever we approached one a general scram-ble iDvaiiably took place to secure the contents. It was evident that a government order had been iaBued not to sell books to the strangers ; and although our attendants used to pretend to assist us in procnring them, we used to discover them seoretly abetting ^ shop-keepers. Onoe when I seized a great priise — a map of a province in ^e empire-:-it was snatched &om me by an old lady who had the fear of government very vividly before her eyes, bo that I only carried off a small fragment Still, by soft speeches and petseveranoe, we managed to pick up a good many picture-

422 JAFASESE LITERATDRE.

books. One of these, illustrative of various trades in Japan, was a most interesting study. The preceding wood-cut gives some idea of the gn^hic character of the drawings. Most of the books which I obtained, written in Japanese, were of little use, as no-body could read them ; but I procured one or two bulky volumes in the Chinese character. According to the Dutch sutbots, JafA-nese literature generally comprises works of science, history, biog-raphy, geography, travels, moral phUosophy, natural histoiy, poet-ry, the drama, and encyclopedias — a very goodly catalogue, if it be a correct one.

Besides the books cont^ning nothing bat pictures are works of fiction illustrated with wood-cuts, the engravings being nude upon the same blocks with the type. It is said that recently the art of engraving on copper has been introduced.

Though ignorant of the art of painting in oils, the Jspantae are skillful in the management of water-colors, and some of their col-

ored printe are life-like and characteristic. They are generaUv in a regular sequence, and the thread of a story is to be folloved throughout I procured one book containing a series of sketches of groups of horses, in crayon, drawn with much spirit and artistic talent

We may fairly presume that the Japanese are a reading peo-ple ; and fi<om all I could learn, the fair sex were not behind their lords in the improvement of their minds. Golownin bears testi-

JAPANESE LANGUAGE: ITS CX>N8rrBUCTI0N. 423

monj to this fact " The Japanese," he says, " are extremely fond of reading. Even the common soldiers, when on duty, were con-tinaally engaged with books. This passion for literature, how-ever, proved somewhat inconvenient to us, as they always read aloud in a tone of voice resembling singing." They are also al-most as fond of writing notes to each other as if they rejoiced in the luxury of a penny-post Although they have not made that important discovery, an organization does exist for the transmis-sion of letters from one end of the empire to the other, of the most perfect description. The letter-carrier is always attended by a companion, to guard against the chances of sickness or accident delaying the regular postman. These men are constantly relieved, each stage being performed at their utmost speed. I once met one of these carrying his packet and dashing along with a vehe-mence which induced me to inquire what his errand could be. lie was, however, alone : probably it is not considered neoessar}* for town postmen to run in couples.

The Japanese write, like the Chinese, in columns, from the top to the bottom of the paper, beginning at the right-hand side. The character is less fantastic and far more running than the Chinese. There is, indeed, not the slightest similarity between the lan-^agcs, the one being monosyllabic and the other polysyllabic. The Japanese words are often of unconscionable length, but the sounds are musical, and not difficult to imitate ; whereas the Chi-nese words, though of one syllable, consist generally of a gulp or a grunt, not attainable by those whose ears have not become thoroughly demoralized by a long residence in the country. We learned more Japanese words in a week than we had of Chinese in a year; and in making a small, rough vocabulary, I found no dif-iieulty in so aUocating the letters of the English alphabet as to «x>nvey to my memory a fSur representation of the sound I wished to recollect In Chinese this is quite impossible. Klaproth says, in his Asia PolygloUa^ that the Japanese language is so dissimilar from all known languages in structure, grammar, and every char-acteristic, that the nation who speak it must be a distinct race. It is impossible to see them and not to arrive at this conclusion, on other grounds besides the construction of their language. Thai they originally sprang from the same Mongol stock, the descend-ants of which now form a large proportion of the population of China, seems to be generally admitted ; but tlic {peopling of Jap-

424 JAPANESE LANGUAGE: ITS CONSTRUCTION.

oa was, in all probability, an event prior to the first Mongol in-vasion. Their features differ essentially from the Chinese tjpe. Their noses are not so broad and flat, and their eyes are more prominent and not so oblique. Altogether, the cast of coonte' nance is far more agreeable. Those of our party who had vioted the South Sea Islands found in the Japanese many points of le-semblance with the natives of that archipelago. It would be in-teresting to discover whether any similarity existed also in their language.

The student of Japanese will possess one great advantage over the victim condemned to the acquirement of the tongue of the Celestials, inasmuch as he starts with the benefit of an alphabet^ or rather a syllabarium — an appendage to his language which a Chinaman despises. The Chinese character is, nevertheless, con-stantiy to be seen on sign-boards and the walls of buildings. It is read by educated Japanese, but with a pronunciation which & Chinaman would find it difficult to understand. Nor does tbe character always represent to the Japanese mind the idea which it would convey to the natives of the Celestial Empire. The dif* ference in pronunciation may be accounted for by the fact that the Japanese also attempt to render the Chinese sounds by meaiia of their own alphabetic symbols. It would, indeed, appear that there are two distinct languages in vogue in Japan,' called the Yoxni and Kaye, of which the former is the national and popular tongue, and tiie latter Chinese, with a Japanese pronundatioD. This is a subject^' however, upon which our information is scanty ; but with our present establishment of students at the new ports, we shall, ere long, have abundant light thrown upon this most in-teresting field of investigation. The student would do well to fol-low the example of the Japanese in one respect, and cany about with him a note-bopk. Every Japanese wears on a string round his waist a littie portable inkstand : this is usually neatly lacker-ed, and contains one pen, or rather brush, and a little watertight compartment for ink : in his bosom are many sheets of paper, ei-ther separately or made into the form of a note-book. Our metal* lie note-books were always subjects of envy and curiosity, and tbe merits of India-rubber bands were duly appreciated.

We found, on the other hand, no less interest in examining the various uses to which they apply that most essential item in their wants — ^paper. It constituted the walls of our rooms and the ftns

mUTEBSAL USE OF PAFEE.

426

Uut were ID ODiTersal vogae; it waa the wrsppiog of every pur-chase, and fonuBhed the atiing with which it was afterward tied, lo square pieces it was oaed as poclcet-handkerchiefi, and, pressed together and lackered, it was worn as hats : it was of every coq-sisteix^, thick, and ooarse, and full of impurities, or thinner and more transparent than the finest tissue paper, but always wonder-fhlly tough. As it is prepared from the bark of the mulberry-tree, this is not to be wondered at The yonnger braachea funiish the whitest paper. The process consiats in boiling down the bark and etraioing it through a sieve, when it is mized with rice, and the water is gradually drawn oS. The pap-like substance is then spnad caieiully out into sheets, pressed between boards, and laid OQt in the sun to harden and dry. It is impossible to tear this p^)er agunst the grain ; thin strips of it torn in the opposite di-rection, and rolled up, make tough and convenient pieces of atring. The more we aaw of this singular and attractive people, the more we felt that though we, on our side, had much to exhibit which astonished and delighted them, we were the greatest gain-en, for the inveatigatiou of their mapufacturea and appliances, at ooee so original and ingenious, proved a never-fiuling source of interest and amusement.

426 ^ JAPANESE FUNESAL.

CHAPTER 29.

CHAPTER XXIX.

A Japanese Fiineral.<*-Mode of dreasing Ladies' Hair. — Ezcellenoe of Japanese 8iaeL — CanringB in Ivory. — Musical Instniments. — Japanese War-fans. — ^An Expedi-tion into the Country.— A Religions FestiTsl.— Elaborate Tattooing. — ^Tbe Uigus River.— The Temple of Dai Cheenara.— The Interior of the Temple. — A sii^iiiar Postscript. — Snmptnaiy Laws. — Sinagawa. — ^Taxation in Japan. — ^The Chaivcter of the Legislation. — Japanese BCanagement of Children. — Results of our Kjyeri-ence. — Japanese Love of Pleasure. — ^Effisct of Contact with Enropeana.

For the two or three days following our excursion to Hcgee our time was fully occupied with the commissioners. Some of our guests, however, were enabled to employ themselves agree-ably and profitably in riding about the towiL Not far from our residence was a most tempting-looking temple, entered by a mass-ive gateway at the end of an avenue which led to the base of a wooded hiU on the sunmiit of which the gables of the building appeared amid the foliage. Some enterprising explorers made an ineffectual attempt to visit this attractive-looking spot, but were reftised admittance in a manner rather too peremptory and abrupt to be consistent with the uniform courtesy of the people general-ly. Upon this circumstance being mentioned to the commission-ers, they were, as usual, profuse in their apologies, but begged us not to press the pointy as the temple in question was sacred to the manes of defunct tycoons. This fact only stimulated our curiosi-ty still fSuiher, but we refirained from urging a request which seemed distasteful. On another occasion, some of our party were fortunate enough to witness a Japanese funeral In consequence of the corpse being placed in a sitting posture, the shape of the coffin is more that of a sedan chair than an oblong case. It is preceded by servants and members of the establishment, and fol-lowed by priests and mourners in white, with norimons for the ladies, and policemen, as usual, to keep off the crowd. Accord-ing to Siebold, the corpse is interred to funeral music, pxodooed by striking copper basins.

We were so fortunate as to discover, not &r fix>m our abode, a small back street, which was an unfiiiling resource when time did not permit of an expedition into that part of the city which cor-responds to the borough of London. Here were a quantity of

EXCELLENCE OF JAPANESE STEEL. 429

book-etalls, some ahops oontaining yeiy cnriotiB China, and a great Tirietj of the peculiar mapufactmes of the country. The Japa-aeae are a people plain and simple in their taBtea, and, as a rule, eschewing omamenta. Thoae, howeyer, in which the ladiea in* dalge most freely are made of glasa, in the fabrication of which into quaint devioea the manufacturera are peculiarly expert A favorite trick is to fill glaaa tubea of various ahapea and patterns with colored fluids. Theae are firequently uaed as hair-pina. Sometimes there is a globe at the end, in which the liquid may be detected by the air^bubble as it glances in the raven treaaea of a Japanese belle. Moat of the women wear their hair aomewhat ia the style which was in vogue among ouraelvea forty or fifty years ago-— the back-hair being maaaively arranged, and akewered in varioua directiona with glass omamenta. The female attend-autB in the e8tabli^hmenta of princea are alone allowed to wear their hair d VimperaJhice. It is singular that while the Japanese have brought the manufacture of glaas to auch perfection in cer-tain forma-^aa, for instance, the most exquisitely-shaped, bottlea, .o light and firagile that they aeem as though they were mere bubbles, of every ahade of color, and beautifully enameled with (ievioes — ^plate-glass is unknown among theuL Their looking-jlaoBCO are circular pieces of steel, polished so highly as to answer all the purposes of a mirror, and usually elaborately ornamented on the back.

The ornaments worn by the men are almoat exclusively con-:ined to the handlea of their awords. Theae are generally gold, v»r of a composite metal called ayakfdo, consisting of gold and copper mixed with other metals, the effect of which is very l>eaiitiful. The device is generally the representation of some bird or animal, executed in the most perfect and finished style. In most cases the handles of the swords are covered with sha-green, upon which these ornaments are bound with silk cord. The scabbards are either of leather or wood, beautifully lackered, and the blades of steel of the rarest temper. I procured a pair :*>r thirty dollars, which bore the edge of a razor ; but the price was considered paltiy ; and a really good sword, such as, accord-.ng to Fiacher, can cut through a European aword without turn-ing its edge, ia of fitbulous value. I afterward learned that Baron Gros had obtained some of the finest swords which were to be procured at Yedo, and had paid in proportion.

430 CABVIHGS IN IVOBT.

There can be no doubt tbat they have attained to the bigliest pitch of excellence in the art of tempering steeL Old Sonys says of the manufacturers of swords in Japan : " They are giown fomous in all the East for expert armorers, and temper steel bet-ter than the Chineezes, which far exceed the Europeans. Thdr swords are so well tempered that I have struck with one througb an iron pin, of half an inch thick, without the least token of damage to the edge." At first we found great difficulty in per suading our attendants to procure us some swoids to porcbaae: they even exhibited some reluctance to draw those they had on when informed that we wished to inspect them. There is some superstition connected with their sale to foreigners, as the exports-tion has heretofore been rigorously prohibited. Latterly, bow-ever, we completely overcame these scruples.

The same prohibition is liud upon the sale of gold, and thie tc did not find it so easy to remove. Indeed, ornaments of pni? gold were excessively rare ; but we were consoled by the chiinn-ing little wood and ivory carvings, which are extensively used by the dandies of Japan as appendages to their pipes, just as those of this country tie bundles of charms or chatelaines to their waicb-chains. Some of these combine, with the utmost delicacy of exe-cution, a keen sense of the ludicrous, and often represent object? highly characteristic of the people and their manners. The earr-ings in ivory I preferred to any thing of the same description n China ; they were the most ex-pensive trifles which we discov-ered at Yedo. The pipes, tc which these are attached by » "- silk cord, are worn buttoned ot - ^ to the dress near the waist Tbe ■ ■''_ stem is generally composed of a ~ reed, with a mouth-piece of br»st

-.■^- or composite metal elaborately

crnptniDuiTonrCuTiDc. chascd, and a bowl of the same

material, but absurdly small to our Western notions. A pipe con-tains merely a whiff; a pinch of tobacco is rolled up to the siz' of a pea, and one long soothing inhalation completes the process : as in the East generally, tbe smoke is retained for some time ir the lungs. The apparatus being constantly at hand, a Japanese

MUSICAL INSTBUHENT8. 431

vill smoke fifty such pipes in a morning. The tobacco is of a ptle yellow color, not unlike Turkish, except in being cut more doely, and having a more delicate flavor. The best tobacco is i^wn in the tenitoriefl of the Prince of Satanma, and the neigh borbood of NagaaakL The plant was flrst introduced by the ear-Ij PoTtaguese traders.

JipUMM Pip*, CiM, ud Fsneh.

Some of these shops were devoted to the sale of musical instru-meotB, bat they were somewhat cumbersome as curiosities. The most popular is the samsie or lute. It is played with a thin slip •}f wood, and is as necessary an accomplishment among the fair liex as the piano-forte is with as. Bced pipes, tomtom.^, and flate;< are also among the instntments we observed exhibited. Next ■iuor lived an old man, whoso occupation consisted in the manu-factare of bows and arrows, which are still used as offensive weap-i-na in war. Some of the bows were prettily lackered.

4S2 AN EXPEDITION INTO THE COUNTRY.

Perhaps, however, the most singular arm which the Japanese employ in the battle-field is the war-fSEui. This is a paper &ii of a larger size than usual, the sheaths of which are made of iroii,80 that if, fatigued by a violent personal encounter, a warrior sitB down for a moment to rest and cool himself and is unexpectedly attacked, he immediately hits his enemy over the head with his fitn. I endeavored to obtain one of these ; but they were onlj made to order, and were not completed when we left Yedo. The pattern on the £eui is the national emblem, a red sun on a black ground; but the process of £Euming one's self with an iron £ui can not be cooling. In strong contrast to these is a description of fim made of a substance so thin and transparent that it resembles gold-beater's skin ; nothing can be conceived lighter or pleasanter to use. The &n is an inseparable part of a Japanese dress. It is his shelter from the sun, his note-book, and his plaything if it does not happen to be hot. Without it he is as much at a loss to know what to do with his hands as an Englishman is at an evening party without his hat There is so great a variety that it would be quite an interesting occupation to take up the subject seriously and make a collection.

On the 24th of August we started on another riding expedition to the celebrated temple of Dai Gheenara, situated about ten miles from Yedo, toward ^Canagawa. Our road, therefore, led in the opposite direction from that which we had followed upon the for-mer occasion, and took us through the long western suburb that skirts the bay for a distance of five or six miles, first through the notorious quarter called Sinagawa which we saw to greater ad-vantage on our return journey, then for half a league thiongh Omogawa, and past a spot which was celebrated as the place f<^ public executions ; it was just on the outskirts of the town, in an aceldama where the grass was long and rank, and a monolith, eight ^or ten feet high, was surrounded by a stone bench, the victimV last seat Generally criminals who have committed crimes wor thy of death forestall the public executioner, and save ihemaelTe? the disgrace by hara-kiri. The ordinary mode of execution is de-capitation. Titsingh, however, says that in some cases the tortore is prolonged as much as possible, and the skill of the executioner is tested by the number of wounds he can inflict without causing death.

A little beyond this disagreeable locality we come out upon

A RELIGIOUS FE8TiyAL.^ELAB0RATE TATTOOING. 488

pleasant rioe-fields and wide areas of coltiyatioii, divided by rows of treeSi which are oocasionally grouped in clumps. The country is perfectly level, the road broad and good, and lined with trees ; wayikreis are abundfnt^ generally on foot, but sometimes in the basket-chaiiB peculiar to the middle classes. Even after the town has ceased houses are thickly dotted along the road. But our journey to-day is doubly interesting, because it happens to be a religious festival. The Japanese celebrate these about twice a month, upon each occasion to do honor to some special divinity or saint. One, indeed, is in honor of the devil, and originated in a dispute which for some time agitated the religious world in Jap-an as to the color of his satanic majesty. One sect maintained it was black, another white, another red, and another green. The Mikado, deprived of the assistance of an ecclesiastical courts de-termined the matter in a manner worthy his in£Ulible pretensions, lie declared that the devil was of all these four colors at will — a decision which carried conviction to the mind^ of all. This is a story told by Meylan. Siebold, as I have before said, denies that the Japanese believe in a devil at all, while, according to Kaemp-fer, their only idea of him is in the likeness of a fox. It did not occur to me to make inquiries upon the subject

Another celebrated festival is the Feast of Lamps. When this takes place, processions of boats, brilliantly illuminated, move about the harbor, and produce a striking effect I have foigotten the name of the saint in whose honor the whole world was bask-ing in the sun, doing nothing, when we went to Dai Cheenara, but the streets had never before seemed so crowded ; flags waved fix>m baIconieB,and strips of brightrcolored cotton, covered with charac-ters, fluttered from poles ; the women wore floweiB in their hair, and the men had more on than usual. Some, however, denied themselves the benefit of dress, apparently for the purpose %f ex-hibiting the brilliant patterns in which their skins were tattooed. One man had a monster crab in the small of his back, and a pret-ty cottage on his chest It is rather fashionable to have scarlet fishes playing sportively between your shoulders. The scarlet tattooing presents a very disgusting appearance. The skin looks as if it had been carefully peeled off into the required pattern. On a really well tattooed man there is not an inch of the body which does not form part of a pictorial representation. If the general effect is not agreeable, it is perfectly decent^ for the akin

£ s

434 '^HE TEMPLE OF DAI CHEENAEA.

ceases to look bare, or like skin at all ; it rather resembles a har-lequin's costume. It must be dreadful to fed that one can neyer undress again. Yet what anguish does the victim undergo in or-der to put himself into a permanent suit of jred dye and gunpow-der I

Of course, after we had completed a little more than half oar journey, we stopped at a tea-house. The day was sooichingly hot. Biding in the sun on a lacker-saddle, witihiout an umbiril^ in the middle of August, is a process which makes one appreciate the merits of a tea-house. We find the coolest comer, stretch onr-selves full-length on the soft mats, drink tea, eat fruit, smoke in-finitesimal pipes, and get ourselves fanned into a comatose state by &ir damsels, imtil the inexorable Tainoske tells us that tlie time is up, and that, if we are to see the temple, we must odix more brave the rays of the Japanese sun. So we are again en route, and jog on till we reach the Logos River, a deep stream about fifty yards broad, and which is chiefly noteworthy because it is named by the treaty as the future limits of the rambles of the European community in this direction. Eound every one of the new ports is a line of demarcation, beyond which it will not be permitted to Europeans to penetrate. This, as a general rale, comprises a radius of about twenty miles.

We were ferried across the Logos River, and found omaelves in the village of Kawasaki; after traversing which we are once more in the open fields, but our road has narrowed to a bridle-path, and it leads between neatly-clipped hedges, along the margin of purl-ing streams ; past more cottages with steep thatched roo&: some-times these are double ; a sort of hood is constructed above the regular roof, which has deep* overhanging eaves that are formed into verandas. Here, as on the road to Hojee, the people love to bury tiiemselves beneath creepers and flowering shrubs, but they do not neglect the essentials altogether. There are kitchen-gar-dens attached to every establishment, with vegetables, and fruit-trees, and orchards, where the pears are trained on trellises lite grapes. At last we reach a spacious pile of building, which is surrounded by a ditch, and a massive wall surmounted by a l»l* ing, which is in its turn overshadowed by lofty trees.

The single street which composed the village was gay with flags and crowded with people ; it led us straight up to the principal entrance to the temple, and the crowd thronged us as we poshed

THE INTEBIOB OV THE TEUFLE. 435

on, so that we were gtad to get inaide the gates, which were at once closed after us. But we were little better off here. The spacious court was filled with a dense crowd, who clustered oo the brood flight of steps leading up to the temple.

In this court was a ponderous bell, swinging in a handsome bcl-Try of carved wood, on a massive pcdcstaL In Japan the bells never have tongties or clappers, but are always struck from with-OQt bj a piece of wood conveniently suspended. Near the prin-cipal flight of steps hung a lai^ gong, while in the outer veranda wereBwingingpaperlantems,some of an oval shape, ten or twelve feet ID length by about six io breadth, and others like truncated columns.

The building itself was in the form of a shed, with very deep venndas, slightly twisted gables, a steep roof, and substantia walls. Tlte columns which supported the veranda were of wood, . sheathed in copper at the base, while the capital was ornamented with carved representations of lions.

Wiliiin the building were more similar columns. The wood-en panels which formed the ceiling were elaborately carved, and abundantly ornamented with r colored lacker, covered with pret- ,

ly landscapes. In the space, in-| .'U<ff'^rrr^^H|fc£/:- 1 closed by a railing, at the farther r ■ ■^ ' ' -

end of which was the tiny image, were magnificent brass candela- 1 bras, elegantly shaped, so as to rep reseat the sacred lotus. A profu-sion of brazen and tinsel ornaments ftlmost ooaoealed the minute god, seated on his table in the i^m dis-tance, in the centre of a scr which bore the imperial arma In ^ tlie middle of the apartment a priest io green robes was performing serv-ice; assisting him was another in *J-p«>— U'l^^Trf™— «™*«-ta«>. yellow ; while some more in red were present as by-standers.

The chief priest soon took an opportuni^ of coming up to Lord EH^n with the polite intention of doing the honors of the f-stsblishment, bat our means of communication were too limited to enable as to extract very much information from him. Ho

486 ^ SINGULAB F0ST8CBIFT.

was a man of mild, amiable countenance, which did not^ however, betoken a very high order of intellect.

Meantime ^e news had spread that beings of strange BspetiL were in the temple, and when we emerged fix>m it the crowd had increased so much that we had some difficulty in remounting om steeds. By the time we reached Kawasaki the &tigue8 of the day were beginning to tell upon us, and we felt that a meal was necessary to the restoration of our prostrate energies ; so we took possession of the upper story of a tea-house, from the balcony of which we could look oyer the garden, with its ponds, and onia-mental rock-work, and artificial islands, and awaited the repast which it might please the cook to send us. We had &ith in the never-filing rice and iSsh, and were not disappointed. To crown all, a breathless messenger appeared bearing a huge dish of peais —a present &om tlie priest of the temple we had just left to Loid Elgin — SL &ct which was intimated in a note, which contained, by way of an indosure, a piece of dried salt fish. This singalar ac-companiment forms a recognized part of Japanese correspondeiioe. It is the postscript to the letter, and the burden of it is, '^ Happj those who never depart from the wisdom of their ancestors." In other words, " Bemember we were originally a nation of fisher men ; let us not now become effeminate and luxurious, but recog-nize in the inclosed slice of fish the emblem of our former coca-pation, and let it recall to us the necessity of abstinence and fira-gality." Nor is the moral thus intended to be conveyed a mere piece of barren sentiment It is the embodiment of an actire principle in Japan, and accounts for that Spartan simplicity and absence of display which characterizes the natives. The aristoc-racy, in their domestic arrangements, are said to practice the ut-most economy, and, except in obedience to official requirements or the claims of conventional etiquette, to avoid as much as posr sible all ostentation or personal extravagance.

Alluding to this striking feature in the national character, Thunberg says : " It is in Japan, above all, that I have found that wise and useful economy, which must not be confounded with avarice, and to which I do not hesitate to accord the name of vi^ tue, because the opposite is one of the most disgusting of vices. This virtue is practiced equally in the palace of the emperor and in the hut of ^e pauper. The latter knows how to content him-self with the little he possesses, while the rich man does not disai-

8INAGAWA. 487

pate his wealth in a profusion at once hnrtfol to the poor man and £ital to the general well-being of society. Hence arises a happy ignorance of those two scourges so common among onr wise Eu-ropean nations, scarcity and high prices, words for which it would be difficult to find synonyms in the Japanese language."

The rigid code of sumptuary laws which obtains in Japan, pro* scribing certain luxuries, and defining minutely the style of dress to be worn by each grade in the social scale, singularly illustrateii the powerful influence which this marked national characteristic exercises over the community at large.

It was late in the afternoon ere we re-entered Sinagawa, and the streets seemed more crowded than ever; but the most singu-lar feature in this suburb is the houses of which it is composed, and the purpose to which they are dedicated. For at least a mUo we rode between establishments organized on a most extensive scale. Deep verandas, approached by flights of steps, seemed lit-erally packed with the unfortunate victims of a system which if one of the most singular characteristics of the country.* While. however, it is impossible either to extenuate or to justify the tol-eration by society, or the countenance by government, of an evil which must exercise so pernicious an influence upon all classes of the community, it is only fair to estimate at its true value the extent of that influence. It is impossible to compare the general social well-being of Japan with that of any other country, and not admit that, notwithstanding the existence of this peculiar de-velopment of immorality, it will gain by the contrast

Universal testimony assures us that in their domestic relations the men are gentle and forbearing, the women obedient and virtu-ous. I will venture to assert that it is unknown in Japan for a man to knock down his wife and then stamp upon her, having previously driven her teeth down her throat with an iron bolt: IK'rhaps because his wife has never, either by her intemperate habits, fraU conduct, or abusive language, given him cause to do «*<> : and so, in every department of crime, we have reason to be-lieve that the amount of grave oflTcnses committed against society is less in proportion to the population than that of other countries.

It is true that their criminaJ code is severe ; but the best author-itics on the subject state that there is an absolute impartiality in the infliction of punishment The great principle upon which

* See Appendix.

488 TAXATION IN JAPAN.

their legal system is based is the administration of equal juslioe; and the punishment which comes home to the rich as well as to the poor man, with equal force, is death. This, then, is the pen-alty in most cases; but imprisonment and corporal punishment are also resorted to.

But it would appear from Bundall's notes* that the Japanese not only enjoy the advantage of a just and impartial administn' tion of justice ; they are stiU more highly privileged by exemp-tion from taxation in the strict sense of that term. The tenitoiy of which the empire consists is vested entirely in the crown. The revenues are derived solely firom the rents of the land, which vaiy according to the crops. There are assessors annually appointel whose business it is to make the necessary valuation and adjust the respective rights of landlord and tenant The land is held either directly under the crown, or under the princes or noUcs who have been invested by the crown with territorial rights, aod who, in return, pay rent, accompanied by the performance of cer-tain feudal services. Tenants holding direct fix>m the crown paj to the emperor's stewards four parts out of ten of the produce of the soil, whether of rice, com, or pulse, reserving the residue for their own use. Such as hold under the princes pay six parts out often.

In cities a house*tax is levied. Houses, however, under ninety feet in length, are exempt firom this impost The same anthoritr also states that, though sanguinary in principle, the laws are great-ly modified in practice. All the Dutch writers unite in extolling the excellence of the native tribunals, and their competence to deal with criminal, and give satis&ction in civil causes. Esmp-fer says : *' I would not have the reader suppose that the Japanese live entirely without laws; fiir fix>m it; their laws and consdtQ-tions are excellent, and strictly observed." Our information upon this subject is, however, not sufficiently ample to enable ns to de-cide upon the extent of influence exercised by the administratioD of justice in the prevention of crime. Macfarlane, quoting Dutcb authorities, after describing the safety of the roads, states: "This result is not all produced by legislations, severe laws, and tDmc-ipal and police regulations; the Japanese, as a proud people, have a contempt or abhorrence of cheating, pilfering, stealing, or rob-bing." There are doubtless many causes operating to produce

* Ruin>ALL*8 KSnffdame f^JapoiAoa (Kotbs).

JAPANESE MANAGEBiENT OF CHILDREN. 439

the same effect, but it would require a closer insight into the con* atitution of society and character of the people than we were able to obtain to specify what they are. We could only judge by the result As locks and keys did not exist, our rooms were open to the incursions of any of the numerous attendants who swarmed about our lodgings, and, though we lefl the most tempting English curiosities constantly displayed, yet we never had to complain of a single article missing, even of the most triBing value.

I thought it singular that, during the whole period of our stay in Yedo, I should never have heard a scolding woman, or seen a disturbance in the streets, although, whenever I passed through them, they were densely crowded. Upon no single occasion, though children were numerous, did I ever see a child struck or otherwise maltreated. Thunberg, who passed many years in Jap-an, mentions the same fact ; and in a description of the empire in the sixteenth century, from *' The Firste Booke of Belations of Modeme States,^' Harleian MS. 6249, the following passage 00* curs: *'They chastice their children with wordes onlye, and the^ admonishe theirs children when they are five yeares oulde, as yf the* weare oulde men.^' To our own knowledge, this mode of educating youth has been in existence for more than three cen-turies, and the result, according to universal testimony, is in the highest degree satisfactory. E^empfer, Charlevoix, and Titsingh agree in saying that the love, obedience, and reverence manifested by children toward their parents is unbounded ; while the con-fidence placed by parents in their children is represented to be without limit Parents select their children to be arbitrators in their disputes with others, and submit implicitly to their decis-ions ; it is also a constant practice for parents to resign their state and property to a son when he shall have attained a suitable age, remaining for the rest of life dependent on him for support ; and abuse of this trust is said (o be unknown.

With the exception of one or two religious mendicants, I did

not observe in this vast and populous city any beggars. Kiemp-

fK*Ty however, records having seen them on the oountiy roads.

I>efbrnied objects rarely met the eye ; not a drunkard crossed our

path, though from recent accounts revelers occasionally parade the

streets of an evening. From the numbers of people marked with

f^mall-pox, that disease must rage with virulence in Japan, but the

Appalling sights so familiar in China are unknown there.

440 RESULTS OF OUB EXPERDSNCK

So, in OUT daily intercourse with the commissioneiB and oar at-tendants, no instance occurred of any Japanese losing his temper, though it is impossible to suppose that, belonging to a raoe natu-rally proud and haughty, they were never tried. These were our experiences, but it does not by any means foUow that those who live longer in the country may' not liave reason to change them. We left Japan thoroughly agreeing with old Eliempfer, who, after a residence of many years there, thus sums up his estimate of tbe character of the people : '^ United and peaceable, taught to gire due worship to the gods, due obedience to the laws, due submis-sion to their superiors, due love and regard to their neighboiK civil, obliging, virtuous ; in art and industry exoelUng all other nations ; possessed of an excellent country, enriched by mutual trade and commerce among themselves; courageous, abundantly supplied with all the necessaries of life, and, withal, enjoying the fruits of peace and tranquillity." Xavier says as the result of his long missionary experiences " The Japanese, so &r as I have been able to judge, surpass in virtue and in probity all other nations hitherto discovered. They are of a mild disposition, opposed to chicanery, covetous of honors, which they prefer to every thing. Poverty is very common among them, but in no way discredita-ble, although they endure it with difficulty."

It can not be denied that their good qualities are dimmed bj sundry weaknesses, without which they would be more than hu-man. They are notoriously vindictive, superstitious, hangfatv. exceedingly tenacious of their honor, and often cruel and unspar-ing in their mode of protecting or revenging it

From what we saw of the habits of the people, we should be disposed to agree with those who charge them with beifig a some-what firivolous and pleasure-loving race ; but this has by no means the effect of rendering them effeminata '' The Japaneezes,'^ sap Struys, " are in general a very hardy people, and can endure an> extremity of heat or cold, hunger or thirst, to a miracle Th> they seem to come to by a hardy usage when young, for they al-ways bathe their infants in cold water in rivers, and sometimes plunge them over head and ears in snow."

It would seem that, while physically robust, their minds are of a cultivated and dilettante order. They love not idleneas^ but occupations which are refined and congenial to their tastes. Com-merce is considered by them a degrading pursuit ; while literature

EFFECT OF CONTACT WITH ECBOPEAN8. 441

and the fine arts, and scientifio acquirements, are held in high estimation. It is a question whether that activity of mind and energy of character which finds expression in pleasure-parties and gala-days is not fiur preferable to the apathetic indifference of a Chinese mandarin, who thinks gayety undignified, active exercise a penanoe, and who only desires to be left alone with his pipes and women, rapt in contemplation of the Taoli, and the red tape peculiar to the Board of Kites. One result of this difference be* tween the habits and mode of feeling of the two nations is un-doubtedly this, that whereas the Chinese are steadily retrograding, and will, in all probability, continue to do so until the empire fall to pieces, the Japanese, if not actually in a state of progressive ad-vancement) are in a condition to profit by the flood of light that is about to be poured in upon them, and to take advantage of those improvements and inventions which the Chinese regard with contemptuous scorn, but which the Japanese will, in all prob-ability, when they come to know us better, be both able and anx-ious to adopt

It will be a happy thing for Japan if this light is not followed by a very thick dJeurknesB. In the mean time, it would be con-trary to all our experience of human nature to expect that the in-auguration of our intercourse with a nation wedded to the habits and traditions of centuries, coming for the first time into contact with a civilization so different from its own, will be unattended with difficulty.

442 POPULATION OF YEDO.

CHAPTER 30.

CHAPTER XXX.

Population of Yedo. — ^The Nipon Bas. — ^The Qnanon Temple. — A Fair. — ^Ab An-ary. — A singalar Tableau. — Theatrical BepresexitatioDs. — ^Toy-shops. — AstroooiD-ical System. — Moontain Pilgrims. — Japanese Wrestlers. — A conjnring Exhibi-tion.— The Bntterfly Trick. — ^The Commissionera at a Dinner-party. — ^After-din-ner Enthosiasm. — ^Presents to the Mission. — Capadoos Dreasing-goinis.— Laii Night in Yedo.

Theee remained yet one section of the city unvisited The whole of the eastern quarter, as distant &om our abode as Black* wall is from Chelsea, was still a terra incognita. There was a cele-brated temple to be seen here, and the fax-famed Nipon Bas to be traversed in reaching it This ride, taken in connection widi our previously acquired knowledge of the extent of the town in the opposite direction, gave us some idea of the vastneas of this gi-gantic city. It is difficult to form an estimate of the popoIatioD it contains, as the people are more closely packed in some parte than in Western cities ; while in the large area occupied by the pYinces' quarter, the population must be comparatively thin. Upon this occasion we rode at a &st walk for two consecatire hours between dense masses of people. We had done so the day before along the continuation of the same street in the opposite direction. Kasmpfer, who visited Yedo during the early part of the last century, confirms our impressions upon the subject '* Yedo," he says, " properly the capital of the whole empire, and the seat of the secular monarch, is so large that I may venture ti' say that it is the biggest town known. Thus much I can affinn from my own certain Jmowledge, that we were one whole day riding a moderate pace firom Sinagawa, where the suburb begins, along the chief street, which goes across, a little irregularly indeed, to the end of the town."

Golownin has made a rather wild estimate of the population at 8,000,000. This is a statement worthy of Pfere Hue. Don Rod-rigo de Vivero y Velasoo, on the other hand, puts it at 700,000 : but two hundred and fifty years have elapsed since the visit of the Spaniard. The present population would, in all probabilitr. be found to exceed two milb'ons. Yedo is built upon the bank?

THE NIPON BA8.— THK QUANON TEMPLE. 443

of the Todagawa, at the point where that river debouches into the head of the Bay of Yedo. The principal part of the city is situ-ated on the right bank. The river, expanding as it nears the sea, 15, at a point at which it has attained a considerable breadth, span-ned by the Nipon Bas, a bridge of enormous length, built on piles. It is notorious as the Hyde Park Comer of Japan — ^the point from which all the mile-stones throughout the empire are numbered. Croasing it, we gradually emerged from the more densely crowded streets, and found ourselves at last in a lane which presented all the appearance of a fisdr. Booths on each side displayed an infi-nite variety of toys, women's ornaments, prints, and playthings of cvejy description. Crowds of idle loungers thronged the thor-oughfare, at the end of which we could discern the massive pro-[)ortions of the temple rising among the trees, and towering above them and the peaked roofi of a five-storied pagoda. It was dedi-cated to Quanon, a popular divinity in Japan, though of Buddhist extraction, and imported from China. The most celebrated tem-ple in honor of this deity is at Miako.

Passing under an entrance archway, the shops on each side were replaced by an avenue of handsome trees. This terminated in an open space which was densely crowded, as was the broad flight of Atepa leading up to the veranda. We heard a good deal of hoot-ing and yelling, but it was not accompanied by pelting or other uuffka of ill-will, and was probably the result of excitement and exuberant spirits on the part of the more juvenile and least repu-table part of the mob. They were always sufficiently civil to leave a small vacant space immediately round us. As we stood at the top of the steps, and looked down upon the sea of upturned faces KBzing at us, I doubted whether the spectacle which we presented was as striking to them as their appearance was to us.

The interior of this temple did not diflTer materially from those we had already visited. It was the oldest and most cobwebby, and therefore, in an ecclesiastical point of view, the most respect-able. The paper lanterns were more monstrous — some of them were at least twenty feet in height — I should think double that in circiimference, and covered with characters. The temple was dec-orated with numerous pictorial representations; among others were depicted scenes of by no means a religious character, the originals of which were to be found in a neighboring quarter, to which I have already alluded as the least reputable part of the

444 A FAIR.— AN AYIART.

city. We &iled to perceive the connection between them and the holy rites to which the temple was dedicated.

In the gardens surrounding the building we had a still more striking illustration of this blending of the sacred with the pio-fane. In all the grosser forms of superstition, it seemd essentul to the very existence of the religion that it should contain a strong infusion of the carnal and material element So, while the priest inside was propitiating the many-armed deity in whose im-age he saw but the representation of a divine being, the congrega-tion without were paying their devotions to peep-shows and pleas-ure-booths, which had been erected for their benefit in the temple-grounds.

These we now proceeded to explore. As we approached them, the tapping of tom-toms and shrill whistle of pipes gave token of gayety and merry-making. The scene did not differ materiallj from an English fair. Aunt Sally, under divers modificatioDS, seems to be a relative of the universe. It is worthy of r^naik, however, that gambling is not allowed by the government, or even games of cards. Here were people throwing sticks at marks, shoot-ing arrows at so much a shot^ looking into peep-shows throngh small slits in the canvas, or lounging through flower-booths. There was, indeed, a better show of flowers here, and more cari-ous specimens of plants, than we had seen at Hojee ; the gardens were more extensive and tastefully laid out, particular localities being set apart for grandees, fix>m which the vulgar herd are ex-cluded by cords stretched across the entrance.

To one of these we retired for rest and tea ; then we proceeded to inspect an aviary which contained an extensive collectioa of birds interesting to the ornithologist Unfortunately, my knowl-edge of the subject does not warrant my venturing to describe them. There were pheasants, green pigeons, rice-birds, and tiny little flutterers, somewhat resembling avadavats. But the greater part were species with which I was not fitmiliar.

One young bird, apparently moulting, and the most hideous specimen of the feathered tribe I had ever seen, I in vain endear* ored to purchase. It made a noise corresponding to its disgusting personal appearance— a wheezing, spasmodic choke, as if it was in the last stage of suffocation, or subject to violent asthmatic attacks They assured me it grew to a monstrous size, and would not hear of selling it for less than thirty dollars. It seemed scarcely worth

8IN6ULAB TABLEAUX. 445

while to pay flo much for the privilege of having an asthmathic companion saddled upon one for the remainder of the voyage. Lord Elgin, however, purchased a pair of very beautifol green pigeons, boUi of which arrived safely in this coontiy. We now went to examine the shows in the fair. The discordant jangle of musical instruments is resorted to in Japan, as in England, to en-tice the passers-by into entering the mysterious precincts. We could not resist the inducement, the ever-ready Tainoske, as usual, settling all our pecuniary liabilities.

Immediately on entering, a gorgeously decorated junk, almost the size of nature, gayly freighted with a pleasure-party, was sail-ing over an ocean so violently agitated that only one result could be anticipated in real life ; but the junk was merely a sort of scene to conceal the exhibition behind it. This consisted of a series of groui)S of figures carved in wood the size of life, and as cleverly colored as Madame Tussaud's wax- works. No. 1 was a group of old men, in which decrepitude and senility of countenance were admirably portrayed. No. 2, a group of young Japanese Hebcs dressing, and a countiy clodhopper rooted to the spot in ecstasy at the contemplation of their charms. The humor of this tableau consisted in an appearance of unconsciousness on the part of the ladies. No. 8 was a princess in magnificent array, seated on a dais, watching her maids of honor going through divers gymnas-tic performances: one of them was in a position more agile than graceful, her occupation being, while extended on her back, to keep a ball dancing in the air on the soles of her feet The attitudes. which were extremely difficult to represent correctly in wood-carving, were executed with wonderful spirit and truth to nature. No. 4 was a group of men quarreling over sakce ; the fragments of the cups, dashed to pieces in their anger, lay strewn about L*pon the countenances of two of the men the expression of un p<3vemable rage was well depicted. The other was leaning back and laughing immoderately. No. 6 was a group of women bath ing in the sea : one of them had been caught in the folds of a cut tie-fish ; the others, in alarm, were escaping, leaving their compan ion to her fate. The cuttle-fish was represented on a huge scale, iiB eyt^s, eyelids, and mouth being made to move simultaneously hy a man inside the head.

I have given a somewhat detailed account of this "show,** as i t dispUyed a good deal of artistic talent The subjects were char-

U6

TOT-SHOPS.

acteristic, and it is a fair Bample of the' perfection at vhich tlie Japanese have arrived even in the lowest walks of art.

We had made arrangementa to go some night "nayboen''to witness some of their theatrical performances : nnfortunately, with many other projects, we were compelled to abandon this one for want of time. From all we coold learn, however, we did not mis much. The theatres differ from those in China in being more commodiously arranged, as the spectators are all seated, and there is some attempt at stage scenery. Boys perform the part of wom-en, and, according to Thimbei^, there are seldom more than tvo actors on the stage at the same time. He states the sabjeda of their representations to be generally deeds of heroism, the bvc^ of their gods and of their heroes, expressed in verse. There is a drop-scene as with ua.

We examined the toy-shops on our way back, and boaght won-derful Jacks-in-the-box ; representations of animals, beautifoUv executed in straw ; models of norimons and Japanese bonses, as neatly finished as Swiss models ; figures, some of them more hu-morous than decent, carved in wood ; little porcelain figures, vbose heads wagged and tongues shot out unexpectedly; tortoises, whose head, legs, and tail were in perpetual motion ; ludicrous picture-books, grotesque masks and ^am head-dresses of both sexes. Enough absurd contrivances were here exhibited to create a rev-

ASTHONOMICAt SYSTEM.

447

olatioD in the nuneriea of England. When we got back into the busmen part of the town, we stopped at a watchmaker's to buy jewelry and clocks : the former consisted chiefly of the sword or-naments already described, but the latter were of various descrip-tions, some constncted on European models, others fashioned open a principle peculiar to Ja^aa, and supposed to be more convenient for the registration of the singular division of their time. The twenty-four hours are divided in Japan into twelve periods

<>!' time, six of which are appropriated to darkness and six to the I ight. The day being calculated from sunrise to Sunset, there is a iieoenary variation in the length of the six day and six night hoars, the latter being the longest in winter, the former in sum-mer. The clocks are altered periodically to suit the seasons of the yvar. As I never succeeded in comprehending the system by which these hours are numbered,! shall not venture upon any at-tempt at explanation. Some of the old Dutchmen have, however, Eoastered the mystery, and the reader, curious in the Japanese di-f-iioon of time, can consult K«mpfer or Sicbold. Their whole r hronological system is in the highest degree compUcat4.-<.) ; one

448

set of cycles is fixed arbitrarilj by the mikado, another depeodB upon the leogtb of his reign; while a third, called the astrODom-ical cycle, is a wonderful combination of the " ten elements" with the twelve signs of the zodiac

We returned home by a different roate, passing one qnaiter, dedicated to the sale of china, at which we would iain have stop-ped. The shops were upon a more eztenrave scale, and mote abundantly supplied than any we had yet seen. UnfortonUdj, the commissiouers were waiting for us, so we pushed on, paasiDg into the outer inclosute of the citadel through an archway, the buttresses of which were composed of gigantic blocks of stone.

We returned home highly gratified by our visit to the Qoanon temple ; altogether, had we been Japanese, we could scarcely h&n been more assiduous in making pilgrimages to holy plsco. Among them such journeys are acta of the highest merit There is the pilgrimage which it is Incumbent upon every J^nnese to perform once in his life, while the pious perform it annually. I

regretted that the undertaking must fall to the lot of some fttnre explorer. It is to the shnne of the sun goddess, Ten-aiodai-zin,

HOUKTAIK PILGBIMS. 449

the patron divinity of Japan, and is situated at Isje, her supposed birthplace. Another very fitvorite act of devotion, and one in which some enterprising Englishman will doubtless, ere long, participate, is the ascent of the celebrated Fusi-jama, the ''Match-lesB Mountain,'* the Mount Meru of Japan* The ascent is said to occupj three days. Its rugged sides are always inhabited by a sect of mountain priests, called Jemmabos. Their daughters, according to Ksempfer, a beautiful race, are among the few beg-gars to be met with in the country. Their occupation is unhappi-ly not confined to begging, and their parents are supported on die contributions of the licentious, as well as on the alms of the pious. Another mendicant sect are the Fckis, an order of the blind, so named after their founder, a rebel prince. But, while Fusi-yama is regarded as the object of religious veneration, it is no less ad-mired for its scenic beauty, its striking form, great elevation, and %'olcamc character, and has made a deep impression on the artist-ic mind of Japan. It forms the background of almost every picture, and is a favorite device on lacker and china ; sometimes (x>vered with snow, at others in a state of eruption, its appearance during that terrific natural convulsion having been handed down bv tradition.

From an account given in the Chinese Repository, it would ap-pear that the last eruption took place in 1707, on the night of the 2'Sd day of the 11th moon, when '' two violent shocks of an earth-(juake were felt Mount Fusi opened, vomited flames, and hurl-ed cinders to the distance of ten leagues. Next day the eruption ceaaed, but it was revived with greater violence on the 25th and 26th. Enonnous masses of rock, sand redded^ by heat, and an immense quantity of ashes, covered all the neighboring plateau. The aahes were driven to a great distance, and fell several inches thick at Yedo."

Ab Lord Elgin was desirous of seeing some of the national .-{orta and amusements, it had been arranged with the commis-nioners that* they should come to dine with us, and that previous to the entertainment some wrestlers, top-spinners, and jugglers .oboold exhibit for the benefit of our own party, and a number of officeTB who were to come on shore expressly to witness the per-/'>rmancea Unfortunately, through some mistake, neither the top-spinners nor wrestlers made their appearance. Mr. Hewsken, who had seen both, pronounced the exhibition of the latter to be

Ff

450

JAPA1«ESB WBESTLEBa

somewhat disgusting. From tlie detailed deacription contused ia the account of the American expedition to Japan, the ^t must resemble a human bull-fight. The wrestlers are dewhbed

^

9 ol

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b \

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JipuuH WmUan (from ■ Batlra dimiriiic).

as "bo immense in Sesh that they appeared to liav:e lost thordis' tinctiTe features, and seemed only masses of fat Theit ejts''^ barely viflible through a long perspective of socket ; the promi-nence of their noses was lost in the puffiness of theii bloottd cheeks, and their heads were almost directly set upon thor bodies, with only folds of flesh where the neck and chin are usually font-ed. Their great size, however, was more owing to the develop-ment of muscle thau to the mere deposition of fat; for, altbongli they were evidently well fed, they were not the leas well exer-cised, and capable of great feats of strength."

Under these circumstances it was perhaps scarcely to be regret-ted that we were not favored with these gentlemen^s oompanT. The top-Bpinnera Mr. Hewsken described as most dexterous in their management of this popular plaything, one great achiere-ment being to spin it along a string as though it were dancing ^ tight-rope.

A CONJUBINO EXHIBrnON.— THE BinTEBFLT TRICK. 451

We were, however, not disappointed by the juggler ; he arrived late in the afternoon with attendants, wearing the apparatna indic-ative of his calling, and proceeded to convert Lord Elgin's sitting-room into a theatre for his operations. The spectators were ranged on seats in the garden. The conjuror was a venerable old man with a keen eye, a handsome intelligent fSetce, and a long gray beard, the only instance I saw in the country of a countenance so adorn-ed. His dress was very similar to that usually worn by the nuigi-dans of Egypt, and was well calculated to increase his imposing aspect Its ample folds and flowing sleeves, moreover, afforded him many fitcilities in the exercise of his sleights of hand. Those tricks which were dependent merely on prestidigitation were cer-tainly not superior to the ordinary tricks of conjurors in other countries. He produced inexhaustible substances out of very shallow boxes, which became unaccountably Aill and empty, and magically converted a small quantity of cotton which he had tap-ped into an egg upon his fan into a number of veiy substantial umbrellas ; but these were the mere tricks of the trade, the excel-lence of which could best be appreciated by professional artists. That about which there was no trick, but whidi struck us as ex-hibiting the most singular display of skill, was the famous per-formance with artificial butterflies. These were made in the sim-plest manner. A sheet of paper torn into slips supplied all the materials. By tearing these again into small oblong pieces, and twisting them in the centre, they were made roughly to represent the body and two wings. Two of these impromptu butterflies urere then puffed into the air, and kept in suspense there by the Action of the fiin beneath them. This required to be most care-roily and scientifically applied, so as not only to prevent their sep-jumting, but to guide their motions in any required direction, ^ow they would flutter aloft as though chasing each other in playful dalliance, at one moment twine together, at another so far Apart that it seemed a mystery how the same ian could act upon Ijotb. Then they would settle together upon the leaf of a neigh-txmng shrub, or, more curious still, alight gently on the edge of rbe fan itseUl The intense attention which this performance re-r^oired on the part of the operator proved that, though to the spec-ton the matter seemed easy enough, it called forth the exercise * all the faculties, and involved, no doubt, a long course of prac* before proficiency could be attained.

452 THK COMMISSIONERS AT A DINNEIUPABTY.

Daring the whole period of his performances, the wizard, after the manner of that Maternity, never ceased talking ; and, to judge by the merriment he excited among the conmiissioneis, and the extent to which Higo was tickled, his remarks must have been of a highly iSstcetious character, though he maintained himself the most imperturbable gravity throughout

When the entertainment was over we adjourned to dioner. As this was a more formidable meal than those luncheons at which the commissioners had been in the habit of assisting, they address-ed themselves to it with becoming solemnity, partaking steadily of every thing that was offered to them, and mixing up the mosi incongruous articles of food in a manner which was somewhat dis-tressing, but difficult always to prevent. On the whole^tbej fed more like Christians than any other unchristian nation I have ever seen, constantly glancing at us slyly out of the comers of their eyes to see what we were eating, and how we were doing it At last the final act was concluded, and Lord Elgin informed the com-missioners that, it being the habit among loyal Englishmea to drink the health of their sovereign, he was now about to ^ropox that toast This was evidently a custom entirely new to them; and they had scarcely had time to comprehend its meaning before their ears were startled by the noisy " honors" with which it was immediately followed. Quickly taking their cue, however, the three times three had not been rung out before it was lustily join-ed in by our guests. The next toast was the health of his majes-ty the Tycoon, which was no less uproariously responded to, the commissioners by this time having arrived at a pitch of enthusi-asm and Champagne which made them enter v^armly into the pro-ceedings of the evening. " When you in the West want to hoooi a person especially, you roar and shout after your meals. It was a curious custom, but they imderstood it now." Indeed, to prove it, Sina-nono-kami, a very grave old man, during a dead pause in the conversation, suddenly started to his feet and emitted a sten-torian cheer, after which he sat solemnly down, the effect on the rest of the company being to produce an irresistible shout o( laughter.

But, though Sina-nono made a slight mistake upon this ooca* sion, it was worthy of remark how easily our guests seemed to M into our ways, and how quickly they adapted themselves to theta It very soon occurred to them that some sort of acknowledgment was due from them, which they be^ed to express ; and then Lord

I

PB£S£NTS TO THE IQSSION. -CAPACIOUS DBESSINO-GOWNS. 453

Elgin's health was drunk, and their own healths, and, by the time dinner was over, thej had evidently oome to the oonclosion that the dinners and customs of the English were not devoid of merit As the period of our departure from Yedo was approaching, the emperor had sent Lord Elgin and the members of the mission a number of presents. These were all displayed in a room at the back of the temple, and thither we repaired after dinner to inspect them« The handsomest article was a group of storks, beautifully worked in silver, about eighteen inches in height, and of exquisite design. This was presented to his excellency. To each of us was given a number of rolls of silk. These were all spread out upon trays, and differed only in pattern. They were in strips about three yards in length and one in width, useless, therefore, for any practical purpose.

Their chief merit consisted in the associations connected with their manufacture. In Japan, distinguished culprits are not sent to a reformatory to make mats, but are banished to an island by themselves, where they fabricate silks. To enjoy this privilege, they must, however, be nobles— exiled probably for political of-fenses— as, according to the criminal code, it is affirmed that jus-tice is meted out equally to the prince and the peasant

However that may be, these silks were woven by nobles ban-ished to the island of Fatsizio. No man below a certain rank is, in consequence, allowed to wear them, or even to have them in their houses, so that they are not to be purchased in shops. Some of the patterns were remarkably neat and tasteful ; others were somewhat gaudy. The texture of the silk itself was most sub-stantial, and, from its appearance, I should imagine, durable.

Commander Ward, who brought out the yacht, was presented frith a veiy handsome china bowl, curiously lackered inside, and a lackered cabinet veiy highly finished. But the most singular item in the list of presents was the dressing-gowns or robes of state, for they seemed indiscriminately applied to both purposes. Lord Elgin was overwhelmed with about thirty of these, each one occYipying as much space as a large German duvet, and contain-ing' an equal amount of warmth. We found the deck of the Fu-riotus piled with these most inconvenient articles of attire when we subsequently went on board of her, the sight of which, with the thermometer at 80^, was the reverse of refreshing; while their enormouB dimensions occupied half the quarter-deck, and threat-ened to produce serious effects upon the mind of the first lieuten-

451

LAST NIGHT IH TEDO-

aat The lining consisted of silk wadding, a discoveTj we made in ripping tbem open to take it out, as in no other way wm it possible to stow away such bulky additions to one's wardnbe. The wadding proved most serviceable in pacldng ^g-shell china.

Lord Elgin, not having been supplied with any suitable piee-ents to bestow in return for this manifestation of good-will on the part of his majesty, was compelled to make a selection bom tk ship's stores of the Furious, of which he requested the acceptance of the commissioners. They seemed perfectly satisfied with the Sannel, blue cloth, soap, and chocolate, which was abundant); pressed upon them, and more especially appreciated the additiw of some TiQes and carbines.

It was with no Uttle reluctance that we parted late in the era-ing ; it was oar last night in Yedo. We looked forward with biff-ror to a return to that empire, the reverse of celestial, with which so many dis^reeable associations were connected, and looked back with regret on the few but happy days we had passed in the cap-ital of Japan. The life of a traveler is a succession of soch expe riences ; he has long since ceased to growl at them, for they pomi the moral of his metier, and furnish him with a philosophy which should avail him at all times and in all lands, even in that retite-ment to which he will probably be doomed on his return to his own oonntiy.

TnralBi lo ■ aBaw-tuim {from ■ dMIts dnirl^>.

8BITLING-DAY. 455

CHAPTER 31.

CHAPTER XXXL

Settfinf-day.— JapuMie Currency.— Oold and iUTor CoiiM.— The Carrencj Difi-cvlty — JqMUMte Packing.— Signiiig of the Treaty.— Death of the T^ooon *' Nay-boen.** — ^Probable Canae of hit Death. — Profound Secrecy obeerred. — ETacoataon of our Lodging!. — Preaentation of the Yacht. — Parting Scenes.

The 26th of August was the day fixed for the signing of the treaty. On that day two months before, the Treaty of Tientsin had been signed under very different circumstances.

From the earliest hour of the morning our abode was a scene of turmoil and bustle. The day's programme was so extensive, it seemed quite hopeless to get through it The hubbub in the apartment assigned to our Japanese retinue was so constant that I went to investigate the cause. Here were collected tradesmen who had all come to have their ^* little bills" settled under gov-ernment auspices ; visitors who came to take a last look at the English strangers; many faces familiar to us as attendants on sondiy expeditions; our old servants and spies; and presiding over all, a functionary appointed by the lieutenant governor to superintend arrangements, settle disputes should any arise, and re-port upon all matters connected with the foreigners.

An amount of tea and tobacco was being consumed sufficient to fumigate a seventy-four, and float her afterward. Piled up in comers were Japanese costumes ordered by one gentleman ; teth-ered opposite were two little Japanese dogs ordered by another. Stacked against the wall were a number of swords, heaped near tbem a quantity of books, articles which it was impossible to get the first day, but which were coming in readily enough now.

Unfortunately all these had to be paid for. The settling of these formidable accounts loomed in prospect, all the more dread-ful from the solemnity of the process. Two old Japanese, senior wrmnglers probably of their year, with corrugated foreheads and coantenances betokening unlimited sagaci^, stalked gravely in, with attendants carrying balances, scales, weights, pens, ink, and paper, and seated themselves in the centre of the dining-room. Xboo approached tremblingly the shop-keeper and the victim who was to pay him. The latter had a strong presentiment that

456 JAPANESE CUEBENCT.

all the dollars in his possession, nay, even the entire amotint of the handsome annual income he enjoyed, in consideration of the valuable services he was rendering his country in these distant regions, would be insufficient to meet the terrific expenditure he had been induced to incur in this seductive city. Anxiously he emptied his bag of dollars into one scale of the balance. The al* ver itzibus in the other kicked the beam. Moment of intense re-lief I he remained the happy possessor of two dollars, having it must be premised, previously borrowed as much from all his neighbors as they could possibly spare. There was veiy Ktde discussion over the settlement. The officials came provided with an exact list furnished by the shopkeepers ; they knew how much each of us owed the moment we gave our names. The amount had been added up. There was no discrepancy in our acoonntB; the right number of itzibus were in the balance ; nothing remain-ed but to weigh our dollars against them. Then the itzibus were handed to the shopkeepers, and the dollars retained by the goT-eniment

The currency of the country consists of a great variety of goM, silver, and copper coins. These are all specified at great length in Thunbeig, but our observation does not quite agree with his information on the subject. The largest gold coin known is the obang, a most inconvenient cireulating medium, as it is nearly six inches in length and three inches and a half in breadth. I did not see a specimen of this unwieldy piece of gold. It is estimated in value at £20 sterling, but id not in common use. The gold coin in ordinary circulation is the cobang: it is about two inches and a half in length, and an inch and a quarter wide. Its ex-treme thinness, however, diminishes its value; it is intrinsicaUj worth £1 10^. Although I saw this coin, I was unfortunate in not being able to procure one. We found the greatest difficult in obtaining specimens of the currency of the country, and I came away at last the possessor of a solitary itzibu. lliese are either of gold or silver: the gold itzibu is a small oblong piece of money, intrinsically worth about seven and sixpence. The intrin-sic value of the gold half-itzibu, which is not too laige to convert into a shirt-stud, is about one and tenpence.

I have spoken of the intrinsic value of these coins, because by the treaty our gold should pass in Japan for its corresponding weight in Japanese gold ; but inasmuch as it is not nearly so pore

THE CUBBENCT DIFFICULTT. 457

$B that of Japan, there must always be a differenoe between its actual and intrinsic value. The value of 'silver in Japan is as nearly as possible the same as it is with us. The silver itzibus, against which our dollars were weighed, were worth rather more than a shilling apiece. These are divided into half and quarter itadbus, and at last we descend to the lowest medium, copper and iron cash. Most of these coins have the stamp of the mint upon them, consisting of some Japanese characters, as well as the print of flowers, likeyieurtf«cfe-2u and other devices.

The dollars which we paid in lieu of this money, together with all the foreign coin that has entered the government treasury since the signing of the treaty, have been melted down and coined into a new currency, the circulation of which, I r^ret to observe by the last accounts from Japan, the government, in opposition to the spirit of the treaty, has endeavored to confine to commercial transactiona with foreigners. It was to avoid the inconveniences arising out of the former system that the currency clause was in-serted in the treaty, by which it is stipulated that *' all foreign coin shall be current ia Japan, and shall pass for its correspond-ing weight in Japanese coin of the same description. British and JmpaneBe subjects may fi:eely use foreign or Japanese coin in mak-ing payment to each other." By the term Japanese coin was in-tended the then existing currency of the empire. Instead of ac-cepting this as the meaning of the clause, however, the Japanese government has issued a new coin called a nichon, which is in-trinsically worth about, and is declared current at, half a dollar : it 18 not allowed, however, to pass current among the people, and the Japanese merchant is consequently compelled to tdce them to the government treasury, where he is obliged to receive one old itadbn, worth about one shilling and twopence, in exchange for two nichons, worth four and twopence. It is evident that this iurangement must operate as an actual bar to trade. The mo-tives which may have induced the government to adopt it I shall consider presently. Meantime we may be thankful that our own aeooont is settled, and it only now behooves us to pack up our parcbaBes.

We have had gigantic deal cases ordered some days back, and tft^ skill of Japanese carpenters has been displayed in the finish nn€i solid workmanship of our boxes; but it is a serious question liether that mountain of lacker and those pyramids of china can

458 SIGNING OF THE TBEATT.

be disposed of in their recesses. We have dreadful visions of un-packing them at some future day, and finding all that delicate egg-shell, those charming devices, which are to be the wond^ and delight of our friends at home, crushed into infinitesimal fttons: Fortunately, every piece of china has a little box to itself the lid of which fits to perfection, and the contents have been so caiefuUj swathed in cotton by the shopkeeper that we don^t venture to open them. Every piece of lacker has been similarly cared for, and we put a blind trust in the Japanese packers, and stow awaj our fragile purchases hopefully amid a universal hammering, and bargaining, and settling, and packing, until at last we know that the luncheon hour has stolen upon us by the opportune airival of the commissioners, who are much amused at tiie apparent con-fusion which reigns every where.

The signing of the treaty was a most solemn and serious oper&r tion, inasinuch as there were copies made in Dutch, Japanese, and English, of which each were in triplicate, and each required the signatures of Lord Elgin and the six commissioners, be^des son-dry additional clauses to be signed separately ; no fewer tlian eighty-four signatures had to be appended. Some of the com-missioners were, moreover, very particular in making prett]^ sig-natures, and painted away at the hieroglyphics which repTesented their names with evident care and anxiety. Others, firiend Higo, for instance, dashed away with his brush, perfectly regardless ci the opinion which people in England might form of his band-writing. The process of sealing, unknown to them, created a good deal of interest and curiosity ; and afterward, when Ix>nl Elgin proposed an interchange of pens, he having purposely made use of six different ones, the admiral appropriately remarked tliat he gladly availed himself of this opportunity of inaugurating tbe interchange of the products of the two countries, which he trusted might ever be marked with that interchange of good feeling whidi had characterized our mutual interchange hitherto.

Then came Moriyama's turn to receive those compliments wUch his skill and ability amply justified. He had made a copy of the treaty in Dutch, the caligraphy of which would have been a credit to a Dutch writing-master ; and he smirked and smiled like a bashful young lady on having his performance eulogized. Bv this time the ceremony was concluded, and the treaty had been ratified in a loving cup, in anticipation of that future day when it

DEATH OF THE TYCOON "NATBOEN.** 459

should be more formaUy recognized by our respective sorereigns. We found that a grand banquet had been provided for us bj the emperor, who sent Lord Elgin a great many civil speeches, ex-prnsed in the warmest terms his regret at never having been able to receive him, and wished him a brilliant career, and future sue* cesB and prosperity.

Fortunately we were spared, at the time, that shock which the nerves of the susceptible reader will sustain, when he learns that bis majesty the Tycoon had taken his departure *^ nayboen" from the domestic and political troubles of this weary world about the period of our arrival in Yedo, and was now in the realm of the kamis, little heedful, probably, of the aflBEurs of his late temporal kingdom, and rapt in the contemplation of '^ Xim which is the principle of every thing."

We were not informed of this melancholy event until the re-turn of the French mission from Yedo to Shanghai, about two months afterward. The fact had then been made public, and the whole city was in mourning. Our only consolation was that ev-ery body else had been taken in as well as ourselves. The de-ceit which had been practiced was in no way referable to the presence of foreigners. The custom of the country is, that for six weeks after the death of a tycoon it shall be kept profoundly se-cret, until the successor is firmly seated on the vacant throne, and all possibility of any disputes with reference to it is removed. Of whom consist the &vored few whose office it is to gull every body else, I was not informed ; doubtless the crown princes, and probably the council, so that it is just possible that our friends the commissioners were themselves ignorant of the fact If they were not, they had certainly attained a high proficiency in the art of living a lie, for the conversation frequently turned upon the emperor's health, and they sometimes volunteered the information that it was so much improved that, afler all, an audience might be practicable.

It was a still more gratuitous piece of Mae intelligence on their part to tell us the story of his adopting a son ; nor can one dear-Ij perceive the object of the fable.

We never exactly learned the date of his death. The Dutch, *wbo are perhaps a little jealous at the rapidity of our success, de-er laie that he put an end to himself during our stay in Yedo, in ooDsequenoe of the difficulties in which the policy of his govern*

460 PBESENTATION OF THE YACHT.

ment with regard to foreigners was involving him. The Frencb. on the other hand, assert that he died shortly after Mr. Hairis^s treaty was signed, overcome, possibly, by that event; while Mr. Harris himself, who had an audience with his majesty, described him to us as a wretchedly delicate-looking man, and a victini to epilepsy. It is therefore most probable that his death was the T^ suit of natural causes, and occurred about the time of our anivaL This is taking the French account^ and calculating upon an inter-val of six weeks intervening between the occurrence of the erent and its being made public.

Under all circumstances, it is a striking illustration of the per-fect organization which pervades all classes of society, and of the system to which all possible contingencies and events are by law reduced. Many retainers and servants in the palace must hare been aware of the circumstance. A burial of some sort probablj took place. It is difficult to conceive, even if it did not, how socii absolute and entire secrecy could have been maintained, or to im-agine it possible that the female part of the establishment, some of whom must have been cognizant of so important an eveot should have been able to preserve a discreet silence upon it

Certain it is that the world at large were as little ooDsdons of it as we were, when, doing justice to the dinner of our defiinct entertainer, we drank his health in hot sakee.

The most important part of the day's work was yet to come. The yacht was still flying the British ensign, and the oeremooj of handing her over to her new owners was to be the oocapation of the afternoon. The commissioners had already started off to attire themselves in the robes appropriate to the occasion. It happened to be Prince Albert's birthday, and the usual salutes had already been fired, the ships remaining dressed out all daj. In one of the Japanese forts no small amount of excitement reigned. For the first time in the annals of Japan a salute v)^ to be fired in honor of a foreign flag. This was a conoession which had never before been made to any nation, and we were curious to observe how the performance would be ezecnted. Meantime our sacred lodgings were beginning to assume a melan* choly and deserted appearance ; servants and baggage were idot-ing about the yard, stui^y Japanese porters pervaded our deep-ing apartments. We took a lingering look at our quaint abode, so comfortable, and yet so unlike any house that any body had

EVACUATION OF OUB LODGINGS. 461

ever liTed in before, and with a sigh of regret mounted our steeds for the last time. The sensation is not unlike that which is felt if^ when very hot and thirsty, one is stopped in the middle of a delicious draught of beer, having only had time to swallow two mouthfttls. However, we were not destined to have "more;" so we rode again down the main street, through crowds as dense as those which had greeted us on our first arrival, and, seating our-selves once again in the barge, pushed off from that shore on which we had spent nine such interesting and exciting days.

We found the commissioners had preceded us, and were now 2«trutting about the deck of the yacht in all the bravery of their resplendent costumes. I had no notion that it entered into Jap-anese customs to wear such dresses. They are only donned on festive occasions, such as this was supposed to be.

Higo was literally covered with crabs, some of them large enough to be an honor to an English sea-port The dress was embroidered silk, with these crabs in raised silver, standing out iu high relief. Another of the conunissioners flaunted about with a robe ornamented with the cheerful device of a skull. Each had his peculiar emblem, worked on a large scale, on his breast and back. Though somewhat gaudy and fantastic in de-tail, the general effect was striking and imposing.

Lord Elgin now formaUy addressed the commissioners, hand-ing over to them, on behalf of her majesty, the yacht which she had presented to the Tycoon as a token of friendship and good-will Then down came the English ensign, and up went the red tialls on the white ground, the signal for the forts to salute ; and the puff curling over the blue waters of the bay, and followed by a doll roar, proved how well the Japanese signal-man had kept his watch.

With perfect precision, the native gunners fired twenty-one

guns with an interval of ten seconds between each. The weather

waa lovely, the bay was alive with pleasure-boats— the wonder-

frtrack Japanese listening to their own forts conducting themselves

in this totally unprecedented manner. Then came the sharp,

ringing response firom the 68*pounder8 of the Retribution and

Fixrious, and the yacht got slowly under weigh, commanded by a

Japanese captam, manned by Japanese sailors, and her machinery

^rorked by Japanese engineers. Notwithstanding the horizontal

cylinders and other latest improvements with which her engines

462 PARTING SCENES.

were -fitted, the men liad learned their lesson well, and weie ooo-fident in their powers. We steamed gallantly through the fleets, the admiration of all beholders, whether British oi Japanese. A brilliant sunset added its glories to this lively and attractiye soene. The shores of the bay were lined with people ; in places green wooded banks came down to the water, and the smoke fiom their guns still rested upon the island forts. Many-coloied flags flat-tered in the breeze, hundreds of boats flitted to and fro on tlie still waters of the bay ; while, rearing its conical summit &r iDto the blue sky, old Fusi-yama formed a noble background to a pic-ture such as had never before been witnessed in the course of all the many centuries during which this majestic peak has presided over the capital of Dai Nipon. Captain Barker had prepared a feast for the commissioners on board the Betribution, and thej examined the fittings of this handsome vessel with much interest At last the moment of parting arrived, and, amid many demon-strations of affection on both sides, they bade us a final fiurewdL As night closed in, the golden sun was followed by a moon which had borrowed a lustre from the reflected rays of the Imnin-ary it rivaled. Then rockets shot into the heavens, and blae-lights burned at the yard-arms, and the rows of forts were illa-minated in quick reply. The long day was over at last, and with it we felt that our Japanese experiences had finally terminated. They had been marked by an interest and a novdty not to be surpassed, and by a success, in a political point of view, scarcdj to have been anticipated. The 26th of August, 1858, will be a date long to be remembered by all of us who shared in the angn* lar and interesting proceedings of that day ; but it will be an epoch in the history of the Japanese empire, and, in centuries to come, natives and foreigners will alike record with interest the anniversary of an event pregnant with such important results to commerce and civilization.

FUTUBE FB08FECT8. 468

CHAPTER 32.

CEAPTERXXXIL

Future Proipecti.— Ciriliftion of JapMi.^Tlie Eflfeet of the Treaty.— Doteh Sob-■cmciicy*— Intel yiewi of the Dutch with the l^coon.— Policj to be panned.— Keoewity of mereantUe Moralitjr.^Rctonroe* of Japan.— Commercial Inierconrve with China. — GoTemment Interference.— Chow-chow Cargoes. — Competition witli aatire Mannfactnres.— Probable Demand for woolen Mannfactniei, etc.— Vege-table Prodncta. — Japan Wax. — Mineral Bcaonrcca. — Commercial Proapecta. — Leave Japan.— The Port of Uiogo.—Ohoealuu— Kioto.— Canght in a Typlioon.-at Shanghai.

Before bidding a final adieu to Japan, it may be interesting to cast a brief glanco at the present state and future prospects of our political and commercial relations with that empire. In the account which I have given of our intercourse with its officials and people generally, I have endeavored to convey honestly the impression produced upon our minds during our brief experience among them. These impressions coincided thoroughly with the accounts we received from Dutch and American gentlemen, whose acquaintance with the country had dated from a longer period ; but it is more than probable that, as our relations with the Japa-nese become more extended, the character they will receive at our hands will be less favorable. This may arise from two causes. In the first place, they will very probably bo provoked and irri-tated into an antagonism to us by the overbearing and insolent behavior, common, unhappily, to a certain class of our country-men when brought into contact with semi-civilized races ; and, in the second, even those among us who are superior to any such imputation rarely make allowances for different moral standards, and altogether dissimilar habits and modes of thought from those to which they are themselves accustomed They forget, for in-stance, that truth is a virtue unknown except to a mere fraction of the human family — ^that, as a general rule, a strict adherence to truth is to be met with only in countries peopled by races anxmg whom chivalry has existed as an institution. To Uie east of Etirope I have ever found it regarded rather as a weakness than a virtue — a fact which in no way militates against Asiatics } «eing in some respects superior to Europeans.

It is nevertheless possible that many persons will go to Japan,

464 'f S^ EFFECT OF THE TREATY.

and, because they do not find a code of honor corresponding to our own, compl£dn that the moral qualities of the people have been overstated.

The civilization of Japan differs entirely from that of any other country, and if we expect them to meet us half way in the spirit of advancement and progression common to the West, we shall be grievously disappointed. There are, it is true, among the aris-tocracy of Japan men who are said to be really desirous of admit-ting foreigners into the empire, and of deriving for their counfry-men all the advantages which may be gained by a liberal and progressive policy. Some nobles of this party were in power at the time of our arrival there, and violent discussions were report-ed to have taken place as to the policy to be pursued; for, with the majority of the aristocracy, the prejudices even of two oentu* ries could not be removed at a bound.

With them that exclusive system, which originated in the dis-covery of the ambi,tious designs and treacherous machinatioBS of the first Europeans with whom they came in contact, was at last abandoned only under the influence of fear. The oordiali^ of our reception at Yedo was, in certain quarters, the mask which a somewhat shallow diplomacy led them to assume, in order to avert a danger they deemed imminent, and which they dared not me^ They fancied they saw impending over them the £Eite of India, and they believed that the only alternative was to grant us concessioDS such as we had already wrung fix>m China. It is only fidr to oar-selves to say that they Were entirely mistaken in this assomptioD. The treaty with America had already been made, and ours follow-ed as a matter of course; but it is scarcely to be wondered at that when this fear was removed, the liberals should be at a discount and their opponents should endeavor, even at the expense of good faith, to retreat from engagements they would never willingly have entered into, more especially when encouraged by the intel-ligence that the Chinese govemm^it bad already commenced to pursue the ssune policy with success.

With a crude knowledge of the sacredness of treaty obligatioDS, and an instinctive dread of the aggressive tendencies of people from the West, the old Japanese party seem now inclined to ig-nore stipulations actually ratified by the government If we h<qpc to conduct relations with Japan upon a satisfactory footing, our true policy \b to intimate distinctly to the government that we in-

nrrEBviEws of the dutch with the tycoon. 405

tend to enfinoe eveiy one of our rights to the nttermost letter. The sabaeryienoy of the Dutch for upward of two centuries will doubtless render it more difficult for us to maintain our relations upon that footing of equality, without which the evil results of a fijse position must necessarily ensue, than if no intercourse had hitherto existed between Japan and European countries.

In order to appreciate the pitch to which the Dutch carried their compliance with the humiliating code of court etiquette forced upon them by the Japanese government, it is worth while glancing at the account which we have received from the vera-cious Effimpfer of the ceremonies of the audience at Yedo between the resident of the Dutch fiEictory and the temporal emperor. '* As soon as the resident entered the hall of audience," says the old German physician, *' they cried out ' Holanda captain,' which was the signal for him to draw near and make his obeisances. Ac-cordingly, he crawled on his hands and knees to a place shown him, between the presents ranged in due order on one side, and the place where the emperor sat on the other ; and there kneel-ing, he bowed his forehead quite down to the ground, and so crawled backward, like a crab, without uttering a single word. So mean and short a thing is the audience we have with this mighty monarch."

This was the form of the audience of ceremony, but now let us see what took place on the next occasion, when his Japanese nug-esty condescended to unbend. After the members of the Dutch mission had, to use the word of the same writer, crept into the audience chamber, " the emperor sat himself on our right behind the lattices, as near as he possibly could. Then he ordered us to take off our cappa or cloak, being our garment of ceremony ; then to stand upright, that he might have a fUll view of us ; again to walk, to stand still, to compliment each other, to dance, to jump, to play the drunkard, to speak broken Japanese, to read Dutch, to paint, to sing, to put our cloaks on and off. Meanwhile we obeyed the emperor's commands in the best manner we could. I joined to my dance a love-song in High German. In this man-ner, and wiUi numerous other such apish tricks, we must suffer oaradves to contribute to the emperor's and the court's diversion.** In the present state of our political relations, not only with Jap-iui, but with China, it is most important that we should recall the hiatoiy of the earlier intercourse which Europeans maintained

Go

466 POLICY TO BE PURSUED.

with those countries, as tending to encourage in these semi-ciTil* ized courts that assumption of superiority which must sooner or later be resisted, and to which may be traced all the political com-plications which have arisen, or are likely to arise, with those em-pires.

We are at this moment suffering in China from the false posi; tion which we assumed during those years when our trade was confined to Canton and governed by a monopoly of Hong mer-chants, and when we submitted to restrictions and indignities, not so insulting, indeed, as those offered to the Dutch in Japan, but sufficiently so to establish in the Celestial mind our podtioa of inferiority, of which we have never yet succeeded in diaabuangiL

In Japan, fortunately, we have not as yet thus committed our-selves, but there can be no doubt that we suffer to a certain ei-tent from the low moral position which the Dutch took up at the outset, and which must more or less affect all foreigners. As-suredly, if our political agents in Japan inaugurate our inteicoase with that court by crawling about on their hands and knees, play-ing the drunkard and singing love-songs, we shall very soon have a Japanese war on our hands. Happily, in our consul general at Yedo we have a sagacious and experienced man, who is not Ukelv to give way upon points of national dignity ; but, unless our di-plomacy is conducted upon principles calculated to make us re-spected as a nation at the outset, it will be impossible for us, in the long run, to maintain satisfactory relations with tbe Japanese government It is no doubt true tiiat the influence of the gov-emments both of China and Japan, and, indeed, their stability, de-pend in a great measure upon the prestige which attaches to them in the eyes of the people at large ; but if that prestige is to be pur-chased at the price of the humiliation of Great Britain as a nation, we had better leave to more mercenary countries the privily ci trading with those empires. So £Eir as Japan is concerned, there is no reason to suppose that the application of force will be ncc* essary to inculcate tiie principal lessons of reciprocal inteinatioDal obligations. With so quick-sighted and intelligent a people, IDO^ al influences may be made to operate more effectually than phj^ ical force, and with &i happier results.

But if it is so essential to the maintenance of an amicable inter course with Japan that our diplomatists in that country cany out a policy of combined firmness and forbearance, it is no less vital

BE80UBCES OF JAPAN. 4^7

to the success of commeTcial enterprise, in this new and compara-tivelj unexplored field, that our merchants set an example, to a people totally inexperienced in transactions of this nature, of a rigid adherence to treaty obligations. Where these are sought to be evaded, and advantage is taken of the ignorance or stupidity of native officials to infringe even in the smallest degree the strict letter of the law, the consequences of such a course are certain to recoil upon the mercantile community generally. Sooner or later the government becomes aware of the abuse, and cither resents the wrong by creating out of it a cause of international difficulty, or perhaps, unable to remedy the mischief, recognizes the princi-ple, and thus introduces an element of dishonesty which can not fail in the end to exercise a most demoralizing influence upon all persons engaged in the trade.

There are so many most tempting occasions for stretching the provisionfl of a treaty which, in the case of a country like Japan, must necessarily be somewhat vague, that it is by the spirit rather than by the letter that foreigners should be guided. By observ-ing this principle we shall the more rapidly and successfully dc velop the resources which yet lie hidden in Japan.

It would be somewhat rash for a visitor whose experience of the country has been limited to a residence of a fortnight in its cap-ital to attempt to detail with any certainty what those resources are. That they are very varied we know, from the circumstance that they suffice for every want of a civilized and cultivated peo-pie. That they are very extensive we can not doubt, because be-tween thirty and forty millions of people are dependent on them alone. How far they are yet capable of expansion we shall only leam from those who have extended opportunities of judging.

We may, however, venture to predict that, in the first instance, the great preponderance of the trade of Japan will be with China. Formerly the intercourse between these two countries was limited to ten Chinese junks a year — Chapoo, near Shanghai, being the only port in China to or finom which junks were permitted iv trade. No Japanese junk was allowed to engage in this trade, their construction, indeed, involving a coasting voyage ; and this construction results not from their ignorance of a better model, bat from the stringent regulations forbidding them to build on a principle which would enable them to enter upon distant voy-ages. The cargoes of the Chinese junks consisted principally of

458 GOVERNMENT INTEBFEBENCE.

sugar, besides spices, dyes, and drugs of various descriptions. In return, a certain quantity of bar copper was allotted to eacb junk, the remainder of the cargoes consisting of lackered ware, dried fish, whale oil, etc.

According to Thunberg, the crew were always brought on shore, and all chai^ of the vessel taken fix>m them till such time as every thing was ready for their departure ; consequently, the Japanese unloaded it entirely, and afterward brought the vessel on shore, where, at low water, it was quite dry. The next year it was loaded with other goods. They were, in fact, treated with even greater indignity than the Dutch, while, as a larger percent* age was deducted from their merchandise, their profits were even

less.

So complete has been the control which the government has uniformly exercised over all commercial transactions in which its subjects have engaged, that we sh^ doubtless find considerBble difficulty in emancipating trade fix)m its undue interference. I have already remarked that, even in the last treaty negotiated by the Dutch in 1855, the old machinery of the Oeld Kammer was preserved, by which government reserved to itself the control over the sale of every cargo arriving at Nagasaki. With a gov-ernment still laboring under the traditions of a commercial pd* icy, the essential principle of which is a minute investigation into every act of the trader, and an immediate supervision of his eveiy mercantile transaction, we must be prepared for difficulties in oar commercial intercourse at every turn. A Japanese has no more idea of individual fireedom than a child of three years old, and is about as learned in matters of trade. He has always been in the nursery, and is contented to remain there.

His paternal, or rather maternal government, tells him the price at which he is to purchase his goods, the description of monej he is to pay for them in, and what he is to sell in return. When the Englishman, with his notions of personal liberty and his habits of free trade, comes into business contact with a slave instead of a fi^e man, and finds himself hampered by regulations which apply to his customer in such a manner as to act most injuriously on himself it requires no prophet to foretell the results. We shall have a considerable and very natural irritation produced, and lat-ter complaints made against the Japanese government, who mnst learn to conform to the usages of civilized nations in this respect,

COMFETmON WITH NATIVE MANUFACTUREBS. 4QQ

and be taught tbat, beyond a certain point, no isolated commu-nity has a right to dictate to the rest of the world upon a matter in which mankind are universally interested.

The appointment of a Japanese embassy to this country would do more than any thing else to convey this necessary and whole-some truth to the minds of the council at Yedo.

The trade between China and Japan, to which I have already alluded, and of which foreign ships would always retain the mo* nopoly, consists principally in the interchange of articles of diet pe-culiar to those countries. Thus one of the most expensive lux-urics in China is the root called ginseng ; it is used medicinally, or by the rich as an agreeable tonic ; but the price at which it is sold in the bazars in China is something fabulous. Already great quantities of ginseng have been exported firom Japan, where it grows abundantly. Dried fish, sharks' fins, and sea-slugs are also enumerated among the imports into China from Japan, while the Chinese have been supplying their neighbors, in return, with pre* served eggs, birds' nests, and various spices and drugs used as medicines, too numerous to mention. The generic name for a car-go composed of miscellanies of this nature is chow-chow.

As Japan does not produce sugar, when the taste for that arti-cle becomes more universal there will probably be a large demand for it The most convenient source of supply is Formosa ; but the ta^te for sugar is only one among numerous wants which we have jet to create in order to provide ourselves with a market in Japan. Hitherto they have lived in blissful ignorance of the comfort of a cotton pocket-handkerchief, and have satisfied themselves with square pieces of whity-brown paper. The mysteries of long ells and Spanish stripes have not yet been made known to them, nor could they distinguish between broad-cloths and velveteena Printed cottons, American domestics, drills, and all varieties of j>iece-goods, have been supplied hitherto by articles of native man-ufacture. It will bo for the manufacturer of this country to sub-i?titute for them goods which can answer the same purpose, of a znore suitable material and at a lower figure.

In China we have hitherto failed in producing that great rev-

r>Iation in the fabric of which the dress of the people is oomposed,

^^liich was predicted on the conclusion of the Pottinger treaty.

CTliincse cottons, manufactured by the hand, still compete success-

fViil J with the productions of the machinery of this country, al-

470 DEMAND FOB WOOLEN MANUFACTURES, ETC.

though it is fair to saj that a gradual improvement is taking place in this respect, and the new regulation affecting the transilrdaes will materially facilitate the introduction of foreign produce into the country. So &r as we are aware, no such obstructions to the free internal traffic of the country exist in Japan. When once the goods are disposed of, their circulation is unrestricted. Of course, the extent of that circulation will depend in a great meas-ure on the &cilities of internal communication which the empire affords. Its volcanic and mountainous character renders the transport of goods by land expensive, although the roads are oft-en broad enough for wheeled vehicles ; but very few of these are used, and then almost exclusively for agricultural purposes. On the other hand, the great extent of the Japanese sea-board, and the large population to which easy access may thus be obtained, will render the task of supplying their wants comparatively easy.

There is one material, in particular, for which there ought cer-tainly to be a large demand in Japan when its merits become known. Old William Adams, who sailed for South America with a cargo of woolens three hundred years ago, thus describes there-suit of a conference held on board the Dutch ship Erasmus, when they had failed in disposing of her cargo : " At last it was re8ol?ed to go to Japan, for by report of one Derrick Greritson, which had been there with the Portugals, woolen cloth was in great esthna-tion in that island, and we gathered by reason that the Malaons, and most part of the East Indies, were hot countries, where wool-en cloths would not be much accepted ; therefore it was we agieed to go for Japan."

At present the Japanese wear in winter garments thiddj pad-ded either with cotton or silk wool. In the latter case warm cloth-ing is somewhat expensive, and there can be little doubt that our woolen fabrics would answer the purpose better, and be fiir cheap-er. In China, sheepskins and coarse furs are used by the lower orders, but I did not observe any fur-shops in Yedo. By the treaty both cottons and woolens are admitted into Japan at a dntj of five per cent. The remaining articles included in the five per cent list are all articles used for the purpose of building, rigging, repairing, or fitting out of ships ; whaling gear of all kinds; salted provisions of all kinds; bread and bread-stuffi; living animals of all kinds ; coals, timber for building houses, rice, paddy, steam-machinery, zinc, lead, tin, and raw silk. A duty of thirty *five per

VEGETABLE PB0DUCT8.-JAPAN WAX. 471

cent is placed upon all intoxicating liquora. Gold and silyer, coined or uncoined, are admitted duty free. All other articles pay a duty of twenty per cent

The exportation of rice and wheat, gold and silver coin, and copper in bars, is prohibited. The Japanese govemmefit, how-ever, engages to sell fix)m time to time, at public auction, any sur-plus quantity of copper that may be produced. This, together with idl other articles of Japanese production which are exported as cargo, is liable to a duty of five per cent One of the most im-portant clauses in these regulations is the right reserved of revi-sion of the tarifT at the end of five years.

Silk, camphor, vegetable oU, and vegetable wax are among the principal products which are likely to be exported to this coun-tiy ; the tea and tobacco are both of a very superior quality ; whUe, among manufactured articles, lacker and china in snudl quantities will always find a market in the West Hitherto the most suo-cessfol cai^go brought to this country from Japan has been one of Japanese wax. Mr. Simmonds, in the China Telegraphy gives the following account of Japan wax : '* Rhus suocedanea, the species which furnishes the Japan wax, has long been grown in our green-houses, having been introduced from China nearly a cen-tury ago.

" It might be raised, we should suppose, in the Cape and Aus-tralian colonies, in the Mauritius and India, and would be far preferable as an oleaginous plant to the species of candleberry myrtles from which wax is obtained. It will grow in any com-mon soil, and may be readily. increased by cuttings. We shall probably soon learn what is the ordinary mode of culture in the plantations of Japan, and whether any attention is paid to prun-ing, manuring, etc The wax is of medium quality, between bees-wax and the ordinary vegetable tallows, such as Bassia butter, Borneo vegetable tallows, Cocum butter, etc. Though there are shades of difference, several of these varieties of wax possess the essential properties of that formed by bees ; indeed, it was former-ly Bopposed that bees merely collected the wax already formed bj the vegetable, but Iluber^s experiments show that the insect has the power of transmuting sugar into wax, and that it is, in fhdy a secretion. Japan wax is soflcr, more brittle and fatty than beeffwax, easily kneaded, and melts between 40"^ and 42"^ C. It contains twice as much oxygen as beeswax, and has a different

472 MINERAL RESOUBCES.

composition, consisting of palmitic add united with oxyde of g^j-ceryle. The small parcels which formerly reached this comitty have been used in Price's Patent Candleworks in substitution for wax, and for hard neutral fat, and, after conversion into the add state, both for candles and night-lights. If the wholesale piioe can be reduced, this wax will find its way into exteosiye con-sumption on the Continent for various purposes."

The seeds of another tree, called the Bhus vemicefera, also con-tain a tallow-like oil which is used in the making of candles.

But, so far as our present limited knowledge of the lesomces of Japan will enable ub to form an opinion, its mineral are more likely to form a profitable source of commerce than its vegetable productions. At present there is every probability of the govern-ment placing obstacles in the way of European enterprise in this direction. They have reserved to themselves the monopoly of that most abundant mineral in Japan, copper, which is used for mechanical and other purposes there almost as we should use iron. Iron, however, also abounds in various parts of Japan, and the mines appear to be extensively worked. Judging fix>m articles of casting of their own construction, the ores must be of excellent quality. Specimens of wrought iron, cast and blister steel, have been examined with very satis&ctory results. The wrought iron is usually hammered, and in small flat bars varying fix>m twelve to twenty lbs. each. This is probably to be attributed to a want of proper machinery for heavier bars, and its being better suited to their purposes.

Coal, as well as copper, is a government monopoly. Hiliheito the coal brought for sale since the opening of trade has been sat-&ce coal, and consequentiy inferior in quality: it is described as small. It bums slaty, leaving considerable ash, and is very light The price at the first opening of trade was 3^ Mexican dollars a ton, but it has probably risen since then. There can be little doubt that good coal will be found in the islands when the mines begin to be properly worked, but whether or not the government will permit English engineers to enter the country to assist in developing them is highly problematical.

However much we may regret the difficulties which oppose themselves to the commercial exploration of so fertile and pio-ductive a country as Japan, the result of our elcperienoe leads ns to believe that we must wait for many years before trade can be

COICBCEBCIAL PBOSPECT&^LEAVE JAPAN. 47s

carried on with it upon an extensive and really profitable aeale. Still we need not despair of a prosperous era ultimately arriving. Wo have already succeeded in demolishing that external rampart of exclusiveness which had successfully resisted the assaults of Western nations for upward of two centuries. We must now apply ourselves steadily to undermine the inner barriers which have been constructed during that period, under the influence of long-standing prejudices and bitter memories of the past We shall most successfully achieve this important result by the exer* cL<c of forbearance and integrity on the part of our merchants, 011(1 by the maintenance of a dignified but oondliatoiy policy on the part of our government

It will be a source of legitimate pride and gratification to this country if, on some future day, a Japanese, looking back through the history of the empire, can point to the pages which record otir finst interccrurso with it as being those which mark the dawn of a brighter and purer civilization.

• ••••■■••a.

When the day broke on the following morning we were no longer visible to the good people at Yedo. Early in the after> noon we were abreast of Simoda, and bade adieu to our invalua-able interpreter and friend Mr. Uewsken, consigning him the less reluctantly to his hermitage on shore because the days of his soli-tary confinement were drawing to an end, and inteixx)urse with China would henceforward bo a nu&tter of conunon occurrence.

We had hoped, on our return voyage to Shanghai, to explore

the Sawonada Sea and those interesting waters which lie between

the islands of Kiu-siu, Sikok, and Nipon, and which have not as

yet been traversed by foreign keel, and which must afibrd a most

interesting field for surveys of a scientific character, as also for

g»»nCTal observation. The Suwonada Sea is thickly covered with

i*" lands, and was reported to us by the Japanese as navigable for

t" hips of large draught The large and important island of Sikok

intervenes between it and the North Pacific Ocean, with which

tbiH aea is connected by the Straits of Bungo on the west, and the

narrow Channel of Eino on the east Sikok is, as its name im*

I»I:»^ divided into four provinces; as, however, we did not even

t * j-h t its shores, we had no opportunity of obtaining any informar

: : on about it It is about 150 miles long, with an average breadth

of 70 miles, and is computed to contain about 20,000 square milea

474 ^™S PORT OF HIOGO.— OHOSAKA.

With the Suwonada Sea, however, we are more closely inter-ested, for upon its margin is the port of Hiogo, opened by ibe treaty to the commeree of the West

This port is situated in the Bay of Ohosaka, opposite to the celebrated city of that name, from which it is ten or twelve miles distant. The Japanese government have expended vast sums in their engineering efforts to improve its once dangerous anchorage. A breakwater, which was erected at a prodigious expense^ and which cost the lives of numbers of workmen, has proved suffi-cient for the object for which it was designed. There is a tradi-tion that a superstition existed in connection with this dike, to the effect that it would never be finished unless an individual could be found su£B^ciently patriotic to suffer himself to be buried in it A Japanese Curtius was not long in forthcoming, to whom a debt of gratitude will be due in all time to come, firom eveiy British ship that rides securely at her anchor behind the break-water.

Hiogo has now become the port of Ohosaka and Miako, and will, in all probability, be the principal port of European trade in the empire. The city is described as equal in size to Nagasaki When Kfempfer visited it, he found three hundred junks at an-chor in its bay. #

The Dutch describe Ohosaka as a more attractive resort than even Yedo. While this latter city may be regarded as the Lon-don of Japan, Ohosaka seems to be its Paris. Here are the most celebrated theatres, the most sumptuous tea-houses, the most ex-tensive pleasure-gardens. It is the abode of luxury and wealth, the favorite resort of fashionable Japanese, who come here to spend their time in gayety and pleasure. Ohosaka is one of the five imperial cities, and contains a vast population. It is sitoated on the lefl bank of the Jedogawa, a stream which rises in the Lake of Oity, situated a day and a half s journey in the interior. It is navigable for boats of large tonnage as &r as Miako, and is spanned by numerous handsome bridges.

The port of Hiogo and city of Ohosaka will not be opened to Europeans until the 1st of January, 1863. The foreign residents will then be allowed to explore the country in any direction for a distance of twenty-five miles, except toward Miako, or, as it is more properly called, Edoto. They will not be allowed to ap-proach nearer than twenty-five miles to this far-fioued city.

KIOTO.— CAUGHT IN A TTFHOON. ^ 475

Ab the Dutch haye constantly been in the habit of passing through Kioto, it is probable that before yeiy long this restriction will be removed, and Europeans will be permitted to visit what is, without question, the most interesting spot in the empire. If Ycdo is the London, and Ohosaka the Paris, Eaoto is certainly the Rome of Japan. It is here that the spiritual emperor resides, and that enormous ecclesiastical court by which he is surrounded, and which is called the Dairi, is permanently fixed. It is here that the celebrated tomb of the great Taiko-Sama, the most fa-mous of Japanese temporal emperors, is situated ; and here are to be seen the most magnificent and imposing temples of which the empire can boast The populatioi^ of Eaoto is said to be half a million, and it has had the reputation of being the principal man* ufacturing town in the empire. Had we then known how little our presence was needed at Shanghai, we might have been the first foreign ship to visit the new port of Hiogo. Unfortunately, however, the period fixed upon by the conmiisBioners for their arrival from Pekin was already passed, and Lord Elgin felt bound lo push on with all speed to meet them at the appointed rendez* Tous. We afterward found that any anxiety in this respect was misplaced, for, with true Chinese indifference, they had postponed their journey for numy weeks. Meanwhile we were plowing the rough seas of Japan in hot haste, a gale of wind astern driving us more rapidly than we cared for to the unloved shores of China. Cape Chichakoff, our old enemy, though we had reason to be thankful to him for friendly shelter, looked more inhospitable than ever as we swept past him. Heavy storms, strong currents, and numerous rocks, with probably many more undiscovered, combine to render navigation on the shores of Japan a somewhat anxious undertaking. Fortunately, we had passed the Straits of Van Diemen before the tail of a typhoon caught us suddenly, car-rying away every thing that was set, and rendering an immediate reference to the law of storms neccssaiy. There can be little doubt that the application of this law saved us some heavy weath-er ; for, instead of holding on our course, we fairly turned tail, and fled from the circle of its influence.

Count Poutiatine, in the large frigate to which he had now tmnsferred his flag, was less fortunate. She suffered so severely in the same storm that she was compelled to put into Nagasaki to refit We were perfectly contented with our allowance, never-

476 ARRIVAL AT SHANGHAL

theless, and spent a period of mncli anxLety, in conseqaenee of the risks to which our lacker was exposed. Captain Osbom had most good-naturedly permitted us to stow it away on the main deck, for our cabins were incapable of containing a fourth part of our purchases; but^ as the main deck was often ankle-deep in water, the fate of our Japanese curiosities caused us sdrious misgiviogii

There was, moreover, that constant struggle between a desiie for air and light) and a dread of shipping seas, so fitmiliar to those who have made, voyages in hot latitudes. Once only was I tempt-ed to trice up my port, and had hardly done so before I paid dearly for my indiscretion. Five thousand cheroots, a small Jap-anese dog that was accidentally visiting me, all my bools, and a considerable part of my wardrobe, were swimming together in hopeless conftision, and the weather continued so bad that t^ or three days elapsed before I could dry them. The dog was ever after a martyr to cramp in his loins.

In spite of all these misadventures we made the passage fiom Yedo to Shanghai in a week, and had the satisJGsu^tion of anIK)an^ ing to our friends there, whom we had left scarce a month before, that this short interval had sufficed to enable Lord Elgin to open a new market to the British merchant^ aiid one firom which those residing at this port would most immediately benefit

EFFSCTS OF TSB CHINS8S CXIMATB. 477

CHAPTER 33.

CHAPTER XXXIIL

Eftetf €f the ChiMW CUiiMte.^The Amenitiw of Shanghai,— Arriral cf the Xo^ perial Conuniaioiiexa. — Comfpondenoe relatife to Caoton. — ^Peaoe Prnrlamatfcm — Appointment of Sab-commiasion. — Our Chineae CoDeagnea. — Dailj Coofer-rorts. — Rate of the new Tariff. — ^Traniit Dnttea. — Collection of foreign Cnstoma. —The Opiom-trmde. — Mr. Reed*a Dispatch on Opimn. — ^Beplf of Lord Elgin. — Final A^joftment of the Qaestion. — Visit of the Commianonen.— The Jovial Ha — ▲ Dinner with the Comminionen. — ^The resident Mlniater al Pekin. — ^Pro-posed Expedition np the Yang-tse>kiang. — Signing the Thuie Begnlalions.— D» paitore from Shanghai.

The first intelligenoe which we leoeiyed upon our letnm to Shanghai was Dot of a nature calculated to console us for our hur* ritxl flight from Japan. It appeared that the departure of the imperial commissioners from Pckin had been postponed for some weeks, an interval which we might have spent with pleasure and profit in making excursions in the neighborhood of Yedo, or ex-]>!oring the Sawonada Sea. In default of any such ezcitementi we found ourselves thrown upon our own resources at Shanghai at a period of the year when the climate seems to be most trying to European constitutions, though the temperature was not so high ad it had been six weeks previously.

We had now been for nearly eighteen months knocking about

on the coast of China, and the results were beginning to manifest

themselves. Mr. Loch went home on sick certificate, taking with

him the Japanese treaty. Of those that remained, all of us more

or less suffered from the effects of climate ; and the hot days,

chilly evenings, and malarious exhalations of Shanghai were not

crilculated to remove a tendency to ague, where such existed.

Our own experience enabled us, without any difficulty, to credit

the fact which is established by the official returns, that the China

illation is the mast unhealthy to which our ships are sent, the

sickness and mortality being greater here than even on the west

coast of Africa.

Meantime the period of our return home seemed more remote than ever. We were reminded of a Jiq)anese fiible which seemed x«< >t altogether inappropriate to our condition. A moth is said t'> exist in Japan so bei^utiful that all the night-flies fall in love

478 'I^HB AMENITIES OF SHANGHAL

with it. To get rid of their importunity, she sends them to bring her fire ; and her rash admirers, in their ardent attempts to do her bidding, are consumed in a flame, &tal alike to themsdyes and their aspirations. Moral : Beware how you allow yooiself to become a night-fly in the service of your country.

As Shanghai is situated in a flat and highly-cultivated country, intersected by canals and ditches, and traversed by narrow foot-paths, driving is impossible, and riding attended yyith discomfort, if not actual risk, the pleasure of crawling at a foot-pace in Indian file being varied only by the excitement of crossing a single-log bridge. The enterprising conmiunity of Shanghai, to compensate for these drawbacks, have constructed a race-course, round which equestrians gyrate daily, as though they were being lounged. Those who prefer gossip to exercise frequent the bund, a broad quay which extends along the whole length of the settlement^ and which is crowded ynth Chinese porters all the morning, and sprinkled with European ladies and gentlemen in the aftemoon.

Sportsmen who do not mind foul odors may plod through cot-ton-fields all day, and return home well satisfied with their luck if they bag a brace of pheasants to each gun. And pedestrians have been known to sacrifice their noses to their livers, and take long walks into the wearisome country for the good of their health. Backets, American bowls, and billiards afford relaxation to a lai^ section of society ; and now and then a ball, at which the propor-tion of gentlemen to ladies is ten to one, or an amateur theatrical entertainment, infuses a little animation into the world.

As the utmost harmony and hospitality characterized the com-munity during our stay at Shanghai, we found it infinitely the most agreeable place of residence in China, and the month which elapsed prior to the arrival of the commissioners slipped rapidly by. We occupied the handsome residence of the British consul, and experienced some relief, after our long confinement on ship* board, in the comfort of its spacious apartments.

On the 8d of October the four commissioners, Kweiliang and Hwashana, Ming and Twan, arrived at Shanghai. As Lord Elgin had been disappointed in his desire to see the Canton braves sono-marily chastised, it became incumbent upon him to accomplish by moral pressure what had better have been achieved by physical force ; before, therefore, consenting to an interview with the ocon-missioners, his excellency addressed certain inquiries to them

PEACE pbocxamahon. 479

with reference to the conduct of Hwang, the successor to Yeh, as governor general of the province of Kwang-tung, and to the ap-pointment of a war committee, which had been instrumental in raising braves for the purpose of harassing our garrison in Can-ton« Until a satisfSMStorj reply was made to these inquiries, his excellency declined to enter upon any business with the imperial commissioners.

The committee for the organization of militia, or braves, was principally under the direction of these political adventurers, well known for their turbulent character, and who were now seeking to win promotion by making themselves prominent as the lead-618 of that patriotic party who had sworn to devote themselves to the extermination of the barbarians. The names of these men were Lung, Lo, and Su.

We had good reason to suppose, and we were afterward con-firmed in the belief, that these men were acting in accordance with secret instructions from Pekin, directly opposed to protesta-tions of amity which the commissioners were at this moment making in behalf of the emperor.

With reference to the subjects referred to in Lord Elgin's dis-patch, the imperial commissioners stated that the news of the treaty had not yet reached Canton, nor the treaty itself been offi-ciaHy promulgated ; that Hwang had therefore not changed his policy ; and that, as to the " high officers, Lung, Lo, and Su, they are gentlemen and literates, who have had the honor to receive the emperor's commands to superintend the organization of the militia. This is so in every province ; it is not in Kwang-tung alone. Wherever the country is unsettled, it is the business of the gentry who superintend tiie organization of the militia to be the first informed."

They proposed, however, to order Hwang to issue the following proclamation, and to publish it extensively themselves :

^^ Draft Proclamation.

** The commissioners hereby give notice that a treaty of peace to endure forever, between China and England, France, and Amer-ica, has been concluded by them at Tientsin ; and as they are in-deed apprehensive that the same may not be generally known to the gentry, merchants, and population at large of Uie different ports, they deem it right to issue a proclamation to that effect

480 APPOINTBIENT OF SUB-^X)MBaSSION.

" They accordingly proclaiiii to the merchahts, and all other peisons of the different ports, that a good understanding is ever-more to endure and increase between the Chinese and the for-eigners of all nations, and that they are together to share the en-joyment of comfort and advantage. Such is the earnest hope of the commissioners. Let none disobey.

. "Attend!

"Attend!

"A special proclamation."

So &r £rom accepting this communication as a satis&ctoiy an-swer to his demands, Lord Elgii^ announced to the commissioners in reply that, " after all that has happened, he can not acoq;>t any measure short of the removal of the governor general, and the withdrawal of the special powers with which the gentiy are in-vested, as proof of the sincerity of the imperial government in its desire for the establishment and maintenance of peaceful relations between the two countries."

In reply, the commissioners promised to obtain the remoiral of Hwang, and the withdrawal of their powers from the War Com-mittee.

This matter beiiig so far satisfactorily arranged, the commis-sioners express their readiness to enter upon the consideration of the revision of the tariff and the settlement of trade regulations, this being the ostensible object of their journey fiom Pekin. In the mean time, the Governor General of the Two Kiangs, Ho-kwei-tsick, joins them as imperial commissioners, and is reputed to bring to their councils the most subtle intellect as well as the most liberal mind. The population over which his supreme ad-ministrative functions extend is about equal to that of Great Britain and Lreland.

Li order to discuss the details of the tariff and trade regula-tions, a commission was appointed, consisting, on the port of the Chinese government, of Wang, the provincial treasurer, and Sieh, the provincial judge ; and on the part of the English, of Mr. Wade and myself It was arranged that Mr. Lay should also be present, though not as one of the commission. In his dispatch to the commissioners upon the subject, Lord Elgin states *' that the peculiar nature of Mr. Lay's relation to the Chinese authori-ties has alone prevented the undersigned from officially attaching

OUB CHINESE COLLEAGUES.

481

that gcDtleman to the oomioiasioD above nominated. Ab, howev-er, it is most important that, in a matter involving gnch grave in-tecesta on both sides, neither party should be deprived of the ex-perience and information which Mr. Iaj can bring to bear upon the subject, it is bis wish that that gentleman should be present at the meetings of the comrmaeion."

These meetings took place at a building called the Ye-shi Yuen, dtuated at the farther extremity of the city, nearly four miles dis-tant from the consulate: the daily journey thither in churs, through the narrow, reeking streets of Shanghai, was certainly, if not the most arduous, the least pleasant part of our duties. Qur Chinese colleagues were both agreeable, intelligent men. The treasurer, Wang, though superior in rank to the judge, took lit-tle part in the discussions. His experience of barbariaiu had been limited, and his principal recommendaUoo lay in his gentle,

t-^yndhtLiorj manner, and the absence of any marked antipathy to-vrard foreigners. It was in Sich that the imperial cnmmission-cr» reposed all their confidence. For many years taoutai or in> Hh

482 BATE OF THE NEW TARIFF.

tendant at Shanghai, there is certainly no Chinese numdaiin in the empire whose intercourse with foreigners has been so extens-ive, or whose views upon foreign policy are so enlighteqiDd. There can be little doubt that, had the advice of Sieh been attend-ed to, the Chinese government would not recentlj have commit-ted an act which now calls for a heavy retribution.

At that time his opinion carried great weight in the oouncils of the imperial commissioners, while he was to a large extent infla-enced by his colleague in the service of the Chinese govemmenl^ Mr. Lay. As our approach was always signified by a runner in advance, we invariably found these high functionaries standing at the door, waiting to receive us with a profusion of ctsinH^tsins. Then we ascended to a cool upper chamber, commanding an ex-tensive view of upturned house-tops, and here, with due solemni-ty, assisted by a consumption of tobacco which would have quick-ened the intellect of a Wouter Van Twiller, and refreshed by co-pious relays of almond and ordinary tea, we transacted the busi-ness of the day. When it was over, we were regularly pressed to partake of a repast which was laid out for us in a lower room. This part of the ceremony we usually found a pretext for escap-ing. It would have been a breach of politeness, however, to hare invariably declined to be thus entertained after our labois, though it involved the consumption of much grease and many unknown viands, and usually terminated in a drinking-match of hot sam-shu with the judge, he being naturally of a jovial temperament, and averse to heel-taps.

It is scarcely necessary here to do more than state briefly the result of our labors, and the arrangements we finally came to with reference to trade regulations and tariff, more particularly as the details are given at some length in the Blue-Book ; there are, however, some points which merit a brief notice.

The general principle upon which the tariff was based, in ac* cordance with the treaty, was the imposition of specific duties of import and export, calculated on an oe? vakrem rate of five per cent In the case of imports, this principle was adhered to vcir strictly ; in exports, however, it was necessary to apply it with some reserve, as, for instance, in the case of silk, in which the French had a special interest, and where the duty already levied was lower than the five per cent rate. In consideration of this ad-vantage, certain reasonable concessions were made in other duties.

TBANSTT-DUTIES. 483

Oar diacuaBionfl, howeyer, were not limited to a oonsideratioii of the export and import trade of China alone ; the coasting trade claimed a due share of our attention, and yarious restrictions which had hitherto operated most prejudicially npon foreigners trading between different ports in the empire were removed. As, iiow-ever, the native junk traffic was likely to be seriously affected by the new regolatbns upon this head, it did not seem fair to refuse every concession in its favor; and, in consequence of the urgent representation of the judge Sieh, the export of pulse and bean-cake from the new ports of Teng-chow and New Chwang, under the British flag, was prohibited. This trade is chiefly carried on with Shanghai, some thousands of the sailors engaged in it belong-ing to that city. An act which should deprive these men of the means of earning their livelihood the Chinese commissioners fear-ed would in all probability create serious riots and local disturb-

More difficult of arrangement were the details involved in that of the treaty which provides for the commutation of the transit-dues, and the scope and object of which I have already de* scribed. It was finally arranged that this commutation should be limited to a sum not exceeding one half of the tariff-duties, except in the case of the duty-free goods, which should be liable to a transit-duty of 2^ per cent ad valorem. The importance of this regulation, as affecting certain articles, and more especially tea, may be gathered from the fiict that a transit-duty, at the rate of nearly 100 per cent, has in some cases been said to have been levied on this commodity. ^^ If I am not misinformed," says Mr. Reed,* in a letter to Lord Elgin on the subject, " the transit-du-ties on tea alone often amount to quite as much as the article it-aelf^ and the hope is reasonable that the new treaty will very mach reduce them." The present export duty on tea in China is about one tenth of that which we levy on its import into this coun-try, and itB transit-due is now reduced to half the former amount. Involved in the consideration of this most important clause af-fecting the transit-dues was also the regulation of the conditions under which certificates should be issued, both in the case of ex-ports and imports. These details were often complicated and dif-lieu It ; the more so, as we had no experience or precedent to guide us in framing them.

• BAi^-Booft, p. 898.

484 COLLECTION OF FOREIGN CUSTOMSw

But perhaps the most important role in the trade regulations is that which provides for the collection of duties under one system at all the ports, and in which it is stipulated that the high officer appointed by the Chinese government to superintend foreign tnde shall be at liberty, of his own choice, and independently of the suggestion or nomination of any British authority, to select any British subject he may see fit to aid him in the administration of the Customs revenue. In pursuance of the plan thus adopted by the Chinese government^ they have applied through Mr. Lay for Englishmen to assist him in die important deps^rtment over which he presides, and twelve gentlemen have already left this country for China to supply the place of Chinese employ^ in the collec-tion of the foreign customs. Although the recent rupture has prevented this system from coming into operation, there can be no doubt that it will be the one ultimately adopted.

It will readily be conceived that the imperial government would not have consented thus to substitute foreigners for its own sab-jects, had not a painful experience taught it that it would be im* possible, under any other system, to check those malpractioes by which the revenue was so extensively defrauded- Unfortonatdy, the corruption was not confined to Chinese officials alone. For-eign merchants were too often induced to take advantage of the ready unscrupulousness of the Custom-house officers, and a system was in vogue which, if persisted in, would have exercised a most demoralizing influence generally. Doubtless the illegal traffic in opium, so extensively carried on as a notoriously contrabaod trade, largely contributed to produce the same effect ; and so keenly alive was Lord Elgin to the serious nature of the erils produced by the trade in opium, as carried out, that he determ-ined not to shrink from applying the only remedy which appear-ed to him practicable. The views by which he was actujied in dealing with this question are fully set forth in a oorrespondenoe which passed between him and Mr. Beed, the American minister, who came out to China with a strong bias against the opiam trade, and with instructions from his government conceived in the same spirit, but who nevertheless became an advocate of the legalization of the trade from witnessing the abuses to which its contraband character gave rise.

In that correspondence, referring to the disinclination which Lord Elgin had evinced to press the matter when at Tientsin,

THE OPIUM TRADE.— MB. BEED*S DISPATCH. 485

Mr. Reed observes : ^ I have more than once understood your eioellency to say that you had a strong, if not invincible repug-nance, involved as Great Britain already was in hostilities at Can-ton, and having been compelled in the north to resort to the in-fluence of threatened coercion, to introduce the subject of opium to the conaideration of the Chinese authorities. Yet I am confi-dent, unless the initiative is taken by your excellency, things must continue as they are, with all their shame ; and I appeal to your excellency's high sense of duty, so often and so strongly ex-pressed to this lielpless though perverse people, whether we, the representatives of Western and Christian nations, ought to con-sider our work done without some attempt to induce or compel an adjustment of the pernicious difficulty. In such an attempt I shall cordially unite.'* After alluding to the possibility of putting a stop to the growth of opium in India, Mr. Reed goes on to say : '"Of effective prohibition, and this nuunly through the inveterate appetite of the Chinese, I am not sanguine ; and I therefore more confidently, though not more earnestly, call your excellency's attention to the only other course open to us — attempt to per-suade the Chinese to put such high duties on the drug as will restrain the supply, regulate the import, and yet not stimulate some other form of smuggling, with or without the connivance of the Chinese. The economical arguments in fiivor of this course are so fully stated in the accompanying paper that I need not allude to them fiurther."

In his reply to this communication Lord Elgin states: "I so cordially assent to the views expressed by your excellency in reference to the opium trade, that I do not think it necessary to dwell on this part of your letter. I would only venture to ob-servei on this head, that when I resolved not to press this matter apon the attention of the Chinese commissioners at Tientsin, I did so, not because I questioned the advantages which would accrue from the legalization of the traffic, but because I could not recon-cile it to my sense of right to urge the imperial govemm^t to abtfndon its traditional policy in this respect, under the kind of preasure which we were bringing to bear upon it at Tientsin.

«« The circumstances under which this question will come up for discussion in the conferences on the subject of the tariff, which are now being held at this place, are happily different, and I shall not fail to instruct the gentlemen who are acting for me on this

486 FINAL ADJUSTMENT OF THE QUESTION.

oocaaion to call the attention of the officers of the Chinese govern* ment, with whom they are negotiating, to the considerations so ably stated in your letter. I have little doubt but that it will be found that legalization is the only available remedy for the evils which have attracted your excellency's notice, because I am con-fident that, even if the other difficulties to which you advert could be removed, it would be found practically impossible to suppress the traffic in an article so easily raised and transported, and the demand for which in this country is so great that when the sap-ply, from some cause or another, has fallen short, the price has, I am informed, even within the last few years, risen oocasioiuilly to upward of one thousand dollars per chest — a sum exceeding, I should presume, five times the cost of productaon."

In puiBuance of this view, it was represented to the commisBiQn-ers that many abuses connected with the traffic in opium would be obviated if the drug, which was already practically legalized by the surreptitious levy of a diity upon it by the officers of the govenmient, was placed upon the footing of other imports. The commissioners concurred in this opinion, and opium was inserted in the tariff as liable to a duty of thirty taels per chest A marked distinction was, however, established between this article and oth-er imports. I have already explained that, by the new regula-tion, foreigners were empowered to convey their goods into the interior of the country, and that the goods so conveyed were liable to a duty not exceeding 2^ per cent, ad valorem. From these advantages the trade in opium was expressly excluded. The Chinese commissioners observed that abuses and collisions with the authorities might arise if foreigners were permitted to cany this drug into the country, and force it into tiie markets of the interior. Lord Elgin concurred in this opinion ; and, fiutfaei; deeming an article of this description a very proper subject for taxation, he agreed that the stipulation respecting trana^dutiefl^ to which I have referred, should not apply to it None of the new privileges, therefore, acquired under Lord Elgin's treaty, were extended to opium. It remained on the footing on which genenl imports stood under the provisions of the Treaty of Nankin. Foreigners could enter it at the open ports upon payment of a duty of thirty taels a chest, but it was then to pass into Chinese hands, and to become subject to such chaises as the Chinese government might see fit to impose upon it

VISIT OF THE COMMISSIONKBa 487

As affiuJB were now in an aniicable train, it was arranged that the imperial commiasioners sboold pay a grand visit of ceremony to Lord Elgin, and, acoordingly, on Uie 16th of October a lai^ge portion of the Shanghai community repaired to the Bond to wit-ness the long uncouth procession, which extended almost fi:om one end of it to the other, and consisted of a most miscellaneous collection of spearmen and banner*men, mounted attendants, and footmen with tall conical red caps, many of them extremely rag-ged as to costume, regard being apparently had rather to the qaantity than the quality of the escort A great deal of shouting and discordant music heralded the approach of this tattered oardge. In the midst of it were the fiye commissioners in state chairs, pre-ceded and followed by lesser dignitaries in humble chairs.

An interval of nearly four months had elapsed since we had parted with the two senior commissioners, Kweiliang and Hwa-shana, at Tientsin, so that when Lord Elgin received them at the front door, a cordial greeting, as between old friends, took place. Although they had never before seen a European house, they manifested an orthodox Chinese indifference at the novel arrange-ments which now, for the first time, were presented to their view, and, being seated in proper order, the whole party were soon overwhelming each other with the compliments appropriate to the occasion.

We did indeed remark a much greater ease and affiibility on the part of our guests than had characterized their demeanor at Tientsin; they were evidently actuated by a strong desire to soothe to the uttermost '^ our uncontrollable fierceness," and took a great apparent interest in Lord Elgin's description of the Trans-atlantic Td^gn^h, the news of the success of which had just reached ua The most vivacious of the party was the Oovemor General Ho : so excited did he become upon a glass of Cura^oa at luncheon, that with a flushed fiice he began an energetic recital of his functions at Pekin, as the emperor's amanuenms, entering at last into such particulars concerning that high personage, and the etiquette of his court, that his colleagues became alarmed at his garrulous propensities, and my strong-headed friend the judge unceremoniously possessed himself of the next glass whidi the jovial Ho was about to imbibe, and tossed it down his own throat, with an apologetic remark, tappihg his forehead, that Ho was weak in this respect," a statement confirmed by Ho himself who

488 A DINNEB WITH THE C0MMIS8I0NEBS.

naively informed us that his hce was red in oonsequenoe of the wine having got into his head.

The judge afterward told me that in all other respects but that of drink Ho's head was strong. At the age of twenty-four he had taken the highest scholastic honors in the empire. His literuy labors were as extensive as his imagination was brilliant He was regarded as one of the finest of Chinese poets, and so fikiUfbl in transcribing his thoughts that, before his eyesight had become dimmed from work, he could write a whole poem on a melon seed. At this particular juncture Ho was divided between a de-sire to conciliate us and chastise the rebels. He evidently con-sidered intoxicating himself at a barbarian meal a master-stroke of policy. In a few days he was to repair to the camp of the im-perialist forces and attack the rebels, who were committing some depredations in the neighborhood of Nankin. When Lord Elgin informed the party that he wished to retain a more lasting im-pression of individuals for whom he had so high a regard than his memory could furnish, and explained to them that Mr. Jooe-lyn was prepared to take their photographs, they expressed great gratification, and readily took up the required positions, and went through the necessary rigidity of countenance — ^a simple operation to a Chinaman, who considers it at all times undignified to allow any expression to appear on his face.

On the 18th Lord Elgin returned the visit of the imperial com-missioners with a procession of twelve chairs^ accompanied by a guard of a hundred marines, and preceded by the band of the Retribution.

An elaborate repast was provided for our entertairment upon this occasion, comprising a more than usual array of Chinese co-linary delicacies. The communicative Ho plied Lord Elgin with questions about the government and constitution of England, and showed a greater amount of intelligence and interest in the satgect than I had ever before remarked in a Chinaman; even Hwashana. the uncompromising, unbent so far as occasionally to enjoy a joke : while Kweiliang, always anxious to be amiable, constructed pjr> amids of edibles upon the plates of his neighbors ; altogether, our friends seemed gradually to be attaining a better frame of mind, and expressed themselves well pleased with the harmony which characterized our diplomatic intercourse, and full of anxiety for its continuance. There was, however, still one point in reserve.

THE BBSIDBMT MINISTEB AT PEKIN. 489

to which the oommiflsioners had not yet alluded, bat the import-ftDoe of which was bo great in the eyes of the imperial government that it had led to their special mission to Shanghai. Like the postacript in a lady's letter, however, it had been kept till the last, but the time had now come when the dreaded subject was to be broached, and the effect which their amiability had produced upon the mind of the British plenipotentiary was to be tested.

As this point was none other than that involved in the third article of the Trea^ of Tientsin — ^according to Great Britain the right of a resident minister at Pekin — and as the correspondence which ensued in consequence is especially interesting at the pres-ent juncture, I have given it along with the treaty,* in order that the reader may learn the grounds of objection of the Chinese to the enforcement of this treaty-right, and the view which Lord Elgin took in consequence.

The result of this correspondence was, that although the treaty-right was not waived. Lord Elgin promised to submit it as his opinion " that, if her majesty's embassador be properly received at Pekin when the ratifications are exchanged next year, and full effect given in all other particulars to the trea^ negotiated at Tientsin, it would certainly be expedient that her majesty's rep resentative in China choose a place of residence elsewhere than at Pekin, and to make his visits to the capital either periodical, or only as frequent as the exigencies of the public service may require."

The commissioners expressed themselves satisfied with this concession, and Lord Elgin determined to take advantage of the temper in which they then were, and their evident desire to satis-fy any minor demands in order to gain the one point, to state his detennination of proceeding up the Yang-tse-Kiang, " in order that, by personal inspection, he might be the better enabled to judge what ports along its shores it would be most advisable to open, in conformity with the Treaty of Tientsin."

His excellency had long previously determined to make this expedition before leaving China, not merely for the purpose above alladed to, but with the view of creating a wholesome moral im-f »reaBion updn the minds of the people upon its banks, one which .afaould be felt throughout the length and breadth of the empire. lie aearoely, however, expected an occasion so opportune as that

^ 8o6 Appondiz.

490 SIGNING THE TREATY STIPULATIONS.

which now presented itsel£ So far from making any objection to a proposal which, a few months before, would have caosed each particular commissioner's tail to stand on end, they state calmly : '* It is our duty to acknowledge this letter, and at the same time to prepare letters, advising the authorities along the lines of your coming. We will also send officers to aooompanj you with letters, that there may be a satis&ctory understanding on both sides."

In the mean time Baron Groe returned from Japan, where he had been equally successful with ourselve& From him we learn-ed, for the first time, the scarcely credible intelligence to which I have already alluded, of the emperor's death six weeks before. The fact had been made public prior to his arrival, and the city of Yedo was mourning profoundly for the departed tycoon du^ ing the whole period of his residence in it

On the SOth of October the commissioners returned Lord El-gin's visit in state, and the project of the Yang*t8e-Kiang expedi-tion was discussed. It only remained to obtain the ooncunenoe of Baron Gros and Mr. Seed to the tariff and trade legulatioiis, as agreed upon between the British and Chinese govenmients, pre-paratory to their being formally signed.

The harmony which had characterized Lord Elgin's interoomse with both his colleagues throughout was not destined now to be interrupted. They thoroughly assented to the stipulations om-tained in these important addenda to the Treaty of Tientsin, and on the 8th of November the British and Chinese comniiflBioiieis met at a temple situated on the outskirts of the city, and affixed their signatures to these documents.

While thus engaged we could see the Furious in the river snorting and pawing like an impatient race-horse, puffing oS sharp jets of steam, and lashing the water angrily with her pad-dles. It was not Lord Elgin's habit to keep her long waiting. We proceeded straight from the temple to our floating home. In a few moments more we were dashing through a maze of ship-ping in a style peculiar to our gallant ship and its gallant com-mander, and had proceeded several miles up the brcmd boscMn of the Yang-tse-Eiang before the shades of night compelled ns lo drop anchor in its litUe-known waters.

START ON THE TAN0-T8&KIAN0 EXPEDITION. 491

CHAPTER 34.

CHAPTER XXXIV.

Ail the Ships airroond.— The Delta of the Tang-iie.— Chamiel-himtinK.— The Mg-7in Bloffn.— Aspect of the RiTer-baiik8.--H*rd Mid fen.— Silver laUnd.— Te&g-chow.— A Scene of Desolation.— ChiiikUiig.—£ffecU of Bebel Occupation* — Ooklen Island.— Magniflcenl View.— Off the Bock.— Taiwtoo.— Translation of Chtaen Names.— Chinese Orthograpbj.— Entranoe to the Grand CanaL— Al^ tcnce of Junk Traffic— Approach lo Nanklii.- Actka with the Bebels at Nankin. —Its Bcsolts.

The ships which oompoBod the squadron that aooompanied Lord Elgin upon his voyage up the Yang-tse-Eiang were the Retribution, Captain Barker, senior officer commanding ; the Fu-rious, Captain Sherard Osbom ; the Cruiser, Captain Bjthesea ; the Dove, surveying gun-boat, Commander Ward, and the Lee gun-boat, Lieutenant (now Commander) Jones.

In order to give as clear and detailed account as possible of this most successful and interesting expedition, I shall extract from my journal the daily record of events.

dth November. AU our squadron are in sight this morning, but we are dotted about the yellow waters of the Yang-tse in a some-what irregular fashion. The Cruiser, which had preceded us yes-terday, discovered a sand-bank before night&ll, upon which she leposed for many hours, the receding tide leaving her so high and dry that it was found necessary to shore her up, and her officers were enabled to enjoy their exercise in the afternoon by walking round her without wetting their feet She got off with the high ti<k\ however, and is now at anchor some miles ahead. The Dove and Lee are exploring for a channel ; we move on gently in obe-dience to their signals : the Retribution, drawing more water than any of ns, follows cautiously, but nevertheless takes the bottom ; tue Dove goes to her assistance, and we are left to find our own K-av, which we don't succeed in doing, but ground hopelessly at the top of high water on hard sand Before daric the Retribution c'f'tfl ofT and comes to our assistance, slowly feeling her way, as a man does on weak ice when he goes to rescue a friend who has :iimbled in. It soon becomes evident that we have no alternative but to

492 THE DELTA OF THE YANG-TSB.

lighten the ship, and all night long the crew are engaged transfer-ring to the Lee the heavy guns and coal, and pumping the water from the boilers.

10^. We have already learned to place no reliance on any of the Admiralty charts of the Yang-tse. However accurately the survey may have originally been, the changes which have taken place in the bed of the river since they were made are so great that we have only our instinct for deep water to depend upon. At the spot on which we are now aground nine &thoms are marked in the chart. Meanwhile twenty-four hours of most in-cessant and arduous exertions on the part of both officers and men have lightened the ship sufficiently to enable the powerful Betribution to drag her off by main force.

The Dove and Lee have found the channel at last, and before nightMl we are all anchored together in the Fairway, under Har-vey Point. The breadth of the river is still so great that the op-posite shore, which is flat, is not visible.

11^. Fortune seems inclined to smile upon us to-day. We move rapidly and freely along, with plenty of water and a fiur wind. As we pass the spot marked in the chart as the end of Tsung-ming Island, we observe an unexpected continuation of the shore, which seems to connect this island with the land fbnnerlj known as Mason Island, blocking up completely the channel marked in the charts as dividing them. It is not improbable that this important physical change in the delta of the Yang-tse-Eiasg may have altered the direction of the current, and diverted a laiger portion of it through the northern channel, which may now be found to be the most available for navigation.

Beyond this the river begins to narrow rapidly. At Fooshan, the Hill of Peace, it is not above six miles in breadth. A viDage and fort are here picturesquely situated on some low hills on the right bank. On the opposite shore a high conical hill is visible, crowned by a pagoda known as Langshan, or WolFs Hill. Wr are just congratulating ourselves on our rapid progress, when the gun-boats in advance run up the hated signal^ '' No Channel,'^ and, splitting off in opposite directions, skirmish cautiously aboat in search of deep water.

It is a pretty sight to watch these trusty little craft, acting as pioneers to the three large ships which follow carefully in tbeir track some distance astern, ever on the alert to respond to the

CHANNEL HUNTING.— THE KIANO-TIN BLUFFa 498

caution-Btgnal, and placing in them that sort of confidence which a sportsman does in his dogs. Now they are ranging the river far and wide; now they are pointing; we creep up gently, they creep on as gently ; the scent seems good : now they are at fiiult, thej throw ap their noses, and away again to the right and left| signaling every cast of the lead. We keep under easy steam for a while, reading the flags as they are run up ; two fathoms, two and a hal^ three, two — it is of no use, so we let go the anchor, pipe suppers, and make all snug for the night

12(A. This is a busy but unsuccessful day ; ship^s boats as well as gon-boats are out channel-hunting. There must be a passage somewhere just in front of us — six &thoms are marked on the chart We pull to the spot, and touch the bottom with a boat-hook ; so it is clearly not there. The Dove has harked back and is out of sight ; may she bring back good news to-morrow. Mean-time we stay where we are.

IZth. Nothing could be more enjoyable than the temperature at this time of year in the Yang-tse-Eiang ; but these lovely days only aggravate us, so long as we are chained to one spot At night the Dove returned with the welcome intelligence that she has found a channel.

14A. Under weigh at daylight We are compelled to retrace oar steps for about six miles; then we cross over to the northern shore, and find a deep broad lead, along which we steam freely for the remainder of the day. The river is still very wide and the shores flat until we reach the Kiang-yin blufis, behind which is situated the city of the same name. The Cruiser, with her limit-od horse-power, has not been able to keep up with us, so we anchor here a little before sunset

loth. At the Kiang-jin blufi the river narrows considerably, and presents scenery of a somewhat picturesque character. Two liatteries are built so as to command this pass, but in such a way that their flank might very easily be turned. After rounding the hills, one of which is crowned with a temple, we open up the tall pagoda of Kiang-yin. A great quantity of junks crowded the creek leading to the town. In rear was a range of hills of mod-orate elevation, between which and the river margin intervened a fftrip of pleasantly-wooded country. Beyond this the river again oxpanda; the banks once more sink to a dull uniform level, and the only signs of life are people cutting the enormous bulrushes ^wfaich fringe them.

494 ASPECT OF THE BIVEIUBANKS.— HARD AND FAST.

We observed large flights of wild geese and ducks passing southward. As the wind was ahead and the current strong, we took the Cruiser in tow. The Betribution performed the same kind office for the Dove and Lee, whose tubes wanted deaning. Our progress to-day was necessariiy slow ; fortunately, the navi-gation was comparatively free from difficulty.

16th. At seven o'clock this morning the thermometer stood at 87^. Shortly after getting under weigh we passed Keunshan Pa-goda, perched upon a hill overhanging the river. At tins point the banks become very picturesque^-high rocky hhstb rise pre-cipitously from the water's edge, and behind them a range of ir-regular pointed hills form a complete amphitheatre. On the left bank the shor^ are wooded and populous, occasionally extenave-ly cultivated, and groups of peasants collect upon the water's edge to look at us, as the five ships progress steadily in line against both wind and stream. Here, too, we remarked extraordinary changes in the course of the river. At one place it divides ; one channel, at least half a mile in width, surrounding a populous island, vhicfa, at the date of the chart, had been part of the main land.

The sharp exhilarating air, our steady progress, and the increas-ing interest of the river-banks, all combined to raise our spixits. Presently we sweep round a bold projectmg bluffy and Silver Isl-and opens to view, with its quaint temples embowered in antom* nal foliage ; their white walls are gleaming, and their £rowzy pmsti are basking in the midday sun. Beyond, a noble reach of the riv-er curves beneath the swelling hills which rise from its maigin, their summits crowned with the irregular wall of Chinkiang and their slopes strewn with the debris of that once populous city: while in the distance, as though rising from midnstream, stands a precipitous rock called Oolden Island, with its tail pagoda point-ing to the skies.

The scene is one of such surpassing interest and beauty that it rivets our gaze. We are just lamenting that we can not stop fer a moment to appreciate more fully its merits, when— <^^l8h, our wishes are gratified — ^the old ship gives a heave and a lurcL It is too late now to " stop her," and go " full speed astern.'' We are irrevocably pinnacled on the top of a roc^ ; the Cruiser has barely had time to avoid running into us, and shaves deverlj pael us as she sheers off. The Betribution, panic-stricken, has let go her anchor. With her gun-boats swinging in mid-stream astern.

ANCnCNT VA8E.--SILVSB JSLASD. 495

she looks like a kite with a tail. The current sweeps and eddies past with impetuous velocity, and gradually succeeds in jamming 08 broadside on to the rock, converting us into a sort of break-water, so tbat we have quite a little sea on one side, and a dead calm on the other.

We have ceased to enjoy the view now, that pleasure being transferred to our friends the priests, who are apparently much in-terested in the spectacle. We are within easy hailing distance of them : they afterward told us they were perfectly aware of the danger that awaited us, but they gave us no warning. The whole Britiah fleet, consisting of several ships of the line, besides smaller craft, had passed through this channel fifteen years before without disoovering this fatal rock, and sixteen fiithoms were marked above it We were by no means proud of our discovery, but nobody was lo blame except the priests, and we were too amiable to quar* rel with them, so we landed and paid them a visit The i^and had been visited by the rebels at a comparatively recent date. A great part of the very handsome temple had been destroyed, and the idols cast into the river by them. A celebrated vase, reputed to be more than two thousand years old, was kept here ; but, on the rumored approach of these iconoclasts, those who were intrust-ed with the ssie-keeping of this precious relic buried it in time to insure its safety, and it had not since been exhumed. A temple, which formerly stood on the highest part of the island, had been burned, more, according to the bonzes, for the purpose of terrify-ing the neighborhood than from fanaticism.

The island itself was little more than a tumulus rising out of the centre of the Yang-tse to a height of scaroe two hundred feet, ooveied with the richest foliage, at this season of the year a blaze of fiery tints. Its highest point was still crowned with a small edifice, pagoda-shaped, but which contained nothing more inter-esting than the somewhat unimaginative inscriptions of the Brit-ish sailor: most of these bore the date of August, 1842. From tHia elevated position, an extensive panoramic view was obtained over the broad, richly-cultivated plain, which stretches away to the northward, at this particular juncture the scene of rebel dop* redations. We could see, looming through the distant haze, the pagoda of Tang-chow, reported to be recently taken and still' oc* cupied by the rebels. It was to eject them from this city that the energetic Ho had quitted us so abruptly at Shanghai, so that this

496 tangjchow.^a scene of desolation.

martial statesman and poet was even now in our immediate piox* imity. Yang-chow is situated on the Grand Canal, and iras for-merly reputed to be a city of great wealth and splendor; it his been on three separate occasions in the hands of the iDSoigents. Mr. Wy lie says that a famous imperial library was kq)t here, of which there were only two duplicates in existence, one at PeloDf and the other at Hang-chow. This valuable collection of books, if not destroyed, is divided and completely dispersed. We could discern the houses of Kwa-chow from the top of Silver Island, well known as the entrance of the Grand Canal into the Yang-tse; and in other directions numerous villages and towns met the eye, dotted over the fertile plains, and giving evidence of a krge pop-ulation.

As in nature the most exquisite flowers are generally inhabited by slimy caterpillars, so in China the most lovely retreats are in-variably tenanted by grimy ecclesiastics. We are bound to re-member, however, that we are indebted to them for picturesipe buildings, which harmonize admirably with the scenes ia whid they are situated ; while the priests themselves, in their long, ash-colored robes, are an agreeable addition, so long as they are kept in the back-ground of the picture. These gentry informed tis that the tidal influence extended beyond this point, but was not regu-lar in its operations. They led us to expect, however, a rise of two or three feet, and this, we trusted, would be suflScient to float us off. Meantime, in order to be the better able to take adrant-age of any favorable change which might occur, we commenced, for the second time, to lighten the ship, divesting her of shot, gnna, spars, coal, etc., and working all through the night

17th, Landed on the right bank, and walked to ChinkiaDgover about two miles of plain, intersected by the remains of rongh earth-works. This strip of level ground, which intervenes be-tween a range of hills ^d the river, was imtil recently the abode of a thriving and industrious population. Scarce a year has elapsed since it was a scene of violence and bloodshed, the theotit of an action between the rebel and imperialist forces. The dev-astation is now widespread and complete. A few of the peas-antry have crawled back to the desolate spots which they recog-nize as the sites of their former homes, and, selecting the heaps of rubbish which still belong to them, have commenced to constniet out of them wretched abodes — ^roughly thatching in a gabte-end

CHINKIANO« 497

that baa escaped the general destruction, or replacing the stones which once composed the walls with strips of matting. Miserable patches of garden were being brought into existence between the crumbling, weed-covered walls ; but the destitute appearance of the scanty population served rather to increase than diminish the efTect which this abomination of desolation was calculated to pro* daoe.

Wc entered the city by the north gate, and might have imag* incd ourselves in Pompeii. We walked along deserted stroeta, between roofless houses, and walls overgrown with rank, tangled weeds; heaps of rubbish blocked up the thoroughfares, but they obstructed nobody. There was something oppressive in the uni-ven$al stillness, and we almost felt refreshed by a foul odor which greeted our nostrils, and warned us that we had approached an iubabitod street.

At a spot where were a few chow-chow shops, and two partial* ]y •inhabited streets crossed each other, was the most lively place iu the town. Wo obtained a small share of interest here from a mob of hungry, ragged boys ; but the people generally seemed too much depressed even to stare at a barbarian, and we strolled unmolested in any direction our fancy led us.

On our way to a fort which crowned a .bluff overhanging the river, we passed under some handsome stone arches, which were >till standing conspicuous amid the desolation by which they were surrounded. From our elevated position we commanded an ex-t4'iK*sivo view over the area inclosed by the walls of the city, and which was thickly strewn with its ruins.

Chinkiang was first taken by the insuigents, almost without re*

distance, on the 1st of April, 1853, and was held by them against

a continued imperialist siege up to the commencement of 1857,

wli«-n It was evacuated in consequence of the failure of supplies.

It has been held by the imperialist forces ever since. To judge,

however, from the reluctance manifested by its former inhabitants

:o return to it, confidence is but partially restored. Only the

virv poorest class of traders and shopkeepers have ventured into

its dilapidated streets; and although efforts are being made by

: h«* government to give some stimulus to its repopulation, by re*

ruilding some of the public buildings, such as the government

:7icea, the Confucian Temple, the Drum Tower, eta, the results

I r*^ by no means encouraging. The rebels have, during their oc*

Ii

498 GOLDEN ISLAND.

CTipation, considerably enlarged the boundaries of the city, having carried a wall over the heights to the east of it, and down nearly to the water's edge on the bank of the river, inclosing a large space beyond the old wall in both directions. The population of Chinkiang was formerly estimated at about 600,000 ; it does not now probably contain above 500 souls.

18^. We have painted a water-line on the rocks, so as to be able to detect the variations of the tide at a glance. As, how-ever, there were no indications of a rise to-day, and the ship seem-ed immovable, we chartered a small native boat, and started off on an expedition to Qolden Island, distant about five miles. As we approached it, we discovered, to our astonishment, that it was no longer an island. Flourishing cabbage-fields now occupied the space marked on the chart as a channel with four fiithoms of water in it.

We landed on this recently-formed peninsula, and walked acros it to the rock. Climbing up the steps hewn out of the living stone, we reached the base of the pagoda, shorn now of those extanal decorations which once rendered it celebrated, but still standing, a battered monument of its own departed glory, and of the beauty by which it was surrounded.

Heaps of unsightly ruins marked the spot where once was grouped a picturesque collection of temples and pagodas. The Chinese themselves appreciated its romantic beauty. Sir John Davis thus describes the impression produced upon him by a dis-tant view of it, obtained years before : " The celebrated KinaKan, X>i Golden Island, which, with its pagoda, and the ornamental looh of its temples and other buildings, looked like a fidiy creation ris* ing out of the waters of the Kiang." " This picturesque place,'' he remarks, " is celebrated all over China."

Now, with the exception of the dilapidated pagoda, thero is not one stone left upon another of the remaining buildings. Thoogfa so recently destroyed, a remarkable air of antiquity seems to per vade this sacred spot The rock-cut steps are worn and cmm-bling, and the ruins generally look as though centuries had passed since the destroyer^s hand had been ruthlessly at work. A line of wall with a few wretched guns in the embrasures, a few wretch-ed soldiers in some mat tents in rear, and a quantity of gay, flaunt-ing flags, indicate that this is a military post These banneis and embrasures are apparent on numerous hill-tops, and surround the

MAGNIFICENT VIEW.— AFLOAT AGAIN. 499

city of Chinkiaiig. If we were to judge by thexn, the pTeparatioiis for defense would seem extensive indeed ; but it is scarcely too much to assert that there are more flags than embrasures, more embrasures than guns, and more guns than men.

We sat down on the top of the rock to discuss a sandwich and a glass of sherry, and enjoy the view. It was one of melancholy beauty. On our right the skeleton houses of the city clustering up the hill sides, and filling the whole amphitheatre with their rains — ^the straggling wall running along the ridges, gay with gaudy banners when all around is sad, and defending, as though in mockery, a dreary waste of rubbish ; beyond, the irregular out-line of distant hills, with the broad river spreading itself proudly out upon the fertile plains to the north and east ; fronting us Sil-ver I^and, its bright coloring toned down by distance, and its soft outline contrasting with the precipitous blu£& beside it, all com* bined to form a picture upon which it was pleasant to gaze in that mild autumnal afternoon.

We could discern the ships anchored in mid-stream : one which was broadside on, and leaning very much over, was a feature in the scene we could have gladly dispensed with. In the situation of Chinkiang, its ruined state and the nature of the surrounding country, I was a good deal reminded of Kertch after its evacua* tion by the Russians. We walked through it on our way back, and found on our arrival at the ship some excitement existing at the prospect of getting off The paddle-wheels were revolving violently ; hawsers and stream-cables were out in sundry direc-tiona ; those who were not hauling at something were jumping or rolling the ship. At last a happy and combined effort proved successful, and she seemed literally to tumble off her perch into deep water. The event was signaled by three hearty cheers rrom all hands, which had no sooner subsided than, to our aston-ishment, we heard them faintly echoed from the shore. We were 'vrondering whether the Chinamen were mocking us when they ^rcre repeated, and we then discovered that Lord Elgin and a fTznall party of walkers were thus heartily testifying their satisfac-tion. The singular stillness of the evening air rendered sounds Audible at a great distance. Two hundred and sixty tons in -weight had been removed from the ship before she had been suf-fioiently lightened to' float off the rock.

I9th. Finding that we should be detained all day in re^mbark-

500 TRANSLATION OF CHINESE NABiES.

ing our heavy weights, a party of us landed on the right bank tD take a stroll with our guns and explore the country. We killed three brace of pheasants in the flat, half-cultivated, half- wild land near the margin of the river, and one of our party had a shot at a deer. We approached, but did not enter the small town of Tan-too. It has been several times in the hands of the rebels, and was the farthest point reached by them in their course seaward. It was in a more flourishing condition than Chinkiang, but pros-perous only by contrast. Although it has been in the hands of the imperialists for a much longer time than that city, a laige por-tion of the town still remains in ruins. There has been no at-tempt to rebuild the temples, and many of the poorer inhabitants are living in straw huts. Mr. Wylie, a gentleman connected with the American mission at Shanghai, and who accompanied the squadron for some distance up the river, told us that formerly it was a place of small but active trade, and at times a scene of busy traffic, from the number of boats' passing up and down the creek on which it is situated, this being one of the outlets £rom the Grand Canal at seasons when the route by Chinkiang is impass-able.

20(h. A little after daylight this morning we bade adieu to our anchorage off Silver Island, or, as it is called by the Chinese, T'seaou Shan, or the Hill of Sorrow — so far as it bad concenied us, most appropriately so named. In spite of Mr. Meadows* amusing criticism uppn P^re Hue's practice of translating Chinese names, in some of which the latter has perhaps given a little too loose a rein to his poetical imagination, I shall indulge with mod-eration in the same weakness, partly because I find that other sinalogues do not admit the force of Mr. Meadows' objection ; while I certainly can not grant the truth of his analogyi upon which alone I am competent to have any opinion.

Mr. Meadows very justly remarks that it would be absurd for any Frenchman talking of '' Beading" to translate it by the French word ^' Lecture," but he surely is not correct when he says that it would be equally absurd to talk of " Bath" as " Bain." It may very properly be doubted whether " Beading" is the English for " Lecture ;" but it is, to say the least of it, highly probable that if no " Bains" had existed at Bath, that city would have been en-dowed with some less significant.appellation.

The name of the great river itself upon which we were now

CHINESE OBTHOORAPHT. 601

TOjaging has nsuallj received an interpretation, which I was as-sured by Messrs. Wade and Lay was not the correct one. " The Son of the Ocean" is certainly a more poetical rendering of the word Yang-tsc-Eiang than '* the Son that Spreads ;" but the lat-ter is said to be its literal meaning, and this, seems the more prob-able^ as it is only applied to the river below Silver Island, where the delta commences, and its waters expand over vast alluvial plains to the sea.

Above this point the river is only known among the natives as the Ta-kiang, or " Great River," which, if it were written as it is pronounced, would be spelt Ta-cheang.

I have, however, in this instance retained the old style of spell-ing, to avoid confusion. Generally, in giving the names of places upon the river-bank, I have adopted the principle of endeavoring to render with English letters the nearest possible approximation to the sound of the Chinese word. In doing so, I know that I incur the scorn and contempt of even the most amiable of Chi-nese sinalogues. These gentlemen have attempted, by a copious use of the alphabets of other European languages, and with the assistance of their forms of accentuation and modes of pronuncia-tion, in addition to those contained in onr own, to convey to our English ear some idea of the sounds which issue from Chinese throats and noses.

I deny that by any allocation of the letters known to civilized

mortals you can impart to them the faintest notion of sounds of

which they are totally ignorant Indeed, the hopelessness of the

tisk is pretty well proved by the fact that every sinalogue sets

about it in a different way. Take, for instance, the following

word, the name of a city up the river, which, according to the late

Mr. Morrison, is spelled Ke-chow; according to Williams, K'£-

chau ; according to Wade, Ch'i-chou ; and according to the Jesuit

maps, Khi-tcheou. As one utterly unlearned in Chinese myself^

and presuming that my reader is equally ignorant of that euphoni-

ifua tongue, I would recommend him to sneeze, as the easiest way

of making the same sound that a Chinaman would in alluding to

the above city. The town at which we afterward left the Retri-

hution was spelt by the above authorities in four different waySi

vix^ Kew*heen, Kiu-hien, Chiu-hsien, EJeou-sien.

Let us then determine to employ a good, honest Saxon pro-nanciation in our use of Chinese proper names, and resign the

502 ENTRANCE TO /THE GEAND CANAL.

grunts and snorts which properly belong to them, to peiBons who have studied the art of producing those sounds. At Cantoa we have Anglicized the native word into something attainable by English tongues, nor do we talk of 'Sing-poh ; let us not be diiv-en into calling Pekin, Pei-ching, as the latest vocabulary has it for, even if we did, no Chinaman would understand us.

Henceforth, then, we are to be considered as navigating the 'mighty waters of the Ta-kiang, and well does it deserve its high-sounding title. A little after passing Golden Island we find oar-selves abreast the waUed town of Kwa-chow, or the Island of Gourds. At this point the Grand Canal enters the Ta-kiang fitom the northward, and here formerly a dense crowd of trading junks were at all times collected. It was taken by the rebels the day after they captured Chinkiang, and was only recovered about tk end of 1857. It is now a military position, and we observed i considerable body of cavalry picketed among its ruins; not a trading junk was visible on what was formerly the great highway for the internal commerce of the empire.

Lord Elgin thus alludes to the condition in which we found the Grand Canal, as bearing upon his recent policy in the north: '^ Soon after leaving Silver Island we passed the mouth of the Great Canal, which we found to be entirely deserted save by a few imperialist war- vessels. Captain Osbom informed me that^ when he was at the same place in 1842, the grain-junks were so numerous that it was difficult to force a way through them. Tour lordship may perhaps remember that when, in April last, I re-solved to bring pressure to bear on the emperor by ascending the Peiho River to Tientsin, it was remarked in some quarters that we ought rather to have followed the precedent of the former war, and to have instituted a blockade in the Biver Yang-tse. I thought at the time that this suggestion was an anachronism, and what 1 have seen on this trip confirms this opinion.

" We could hardly have done more than the rebels have done to inflict suffering on the population, and render these districts unproductive to government, and yet no effect has been produced by these proceedings on the court of Pekin."*

Proceeding onward from Kwa-chow, we passed the districts of E-ching and Luh-ho, which have frequently been the scene of Tai-ping incursions. Latterly they have been infested by liotezs

* Blue-Book, p. 443.

AFPBOACH TO NANKIN. 50$

of another clafis, known among the natives by the name Ned-fei| more local, but not less dreaded than the former.

The country now becomes more hilly in character, and at half past four P.M. wo pass under Ping-shmi Pagoda, situated on the top of a hill, backed by irregular ranges, with valleys in deep ^badow, and crests glowing in the afternoon sun. But we were getting too near Nankin to think of any other effects than those which are likely to be produced by the appearance of the Lee in front of its batteries. This gun-boat, with Mr. Wade on board, has hcen sent ahead to feel the way, and communicate with the rebels, should the latter be so disposed.* We follow, a mile or 80 astern, the Dove leading the Betribution, the Furious towing the Cruiser.

It may be imagined with what anxious eyes we followed the little craft as she passed battery after battery, apparently unno-ticed by their occupants. By this time we were passing through the fleet of imperialist junks, which formed the advanced position of the force then investbg Nankin. The crews of these vessels were watching our proceedings with breathless interest At last, just as the Leo seemed beyond the reach of the farthest battery, the red flag was run up on all the forts, and from the lowest a round-shot was fired, which whistled over the Lee, and caused her

* Tbe following U the memorandam which Lord Elgin addressed to Captain Barker upon this occasion, together with tbe instructions fnniisbed by that offic«r to iieotenant Jones, commanding the '* Lee :**

ifetttorandum far CoptaiA Barl:tr*$ mj

'^CoHision with the rebels should, if pcyt^iblc, be avoided. If, therefore, the ta-thoritin in the vicinitj of Nankin erince an^ desire to ooaunvnicaic, we should be prepared to gire them eTery reasonable assurance that we do not present ourselTei w ith hostile intentions. At the same time, it will be proper that they should be in-r> nncd that we are proceeding up the river in the exercise of our treatr-rights, and thai any attempt to arrest our progress, by whomsoerer made, will be resisted.

iHitrwiionM addreMMtd to Ueuienami Joites.

"ft is my direction that you proceed with all possible speed toward Nankin, em-liarkinK Mr. T. Wade, Chinese Secretary. Should no notice be taken of the Lee^ \ « HI will proceed past Nankin, and await my Joining. Should you see any boat with < a** imU clearly approaching the Lee, you will stop and communicate. Should a shot ^-- f^rrd At or ahead of you, yon will hoist a flag of truce, and close the fort for the - Mrp«i«ie of communication. Should the flag of truce be fired upon, yon will imme--..Atrlj rejoin the squadron, and under no circumstances are you to fire withont sig-zud from ne. (Signed)^ C. BAngan, Ca|rtam» Senior Oflker.**

501 ACnON WTTH THE REBELS AT NANKIN.

to ran np smarilj the flag of truce. So far, however, from this signal prodacing the desired effect, it had not floated three min-utes at the fore before seven shots were fired at it in rapid succes-sion ; Lieutenant Jones, true to his orders, not returning the fire until he saw the " engage" signal flying from the mast-head of the Retribution. Bj this time the Dove had got well within range, and she opened the ball with spirit almost at the same mo-ment that the Lee proceeded to indeinnify herself for her forbear-ance by a vigorous cannonade; The Betribution, Furious, and Cruiser now ranged up as close to the batteries as possible, and, moving very slowly ahead, threw in a pretty hot shower of shot and shell. At this point the river is not above a thousand yards broad, with batteries on both banks, which replied wannly to our fire, and g^e abundant occupation to the starboard as wdl as the port guns.

Lord Elgin had taken up his position on the bridge between the paddle-boxes ; but a round-shot cutting through a rope with-in two feet of his head induced Captain Osbom to exert his au-thority as commander, and we were all ordered to the decL For-tunately, although the ship was hulled seven or eight times, two round-shot going into Lord Elgin's cabin, and another smashing his barge, no more serious casualty occurred than a scratch from a splinter.

Meanwhile the Betribution, which was just ahead of us, did not escape so happily. She had one man killed and two wounded severely, one of whom, the signal midshipman, Mr. Birch, lost an arm, and the other a leg. It was now nearly half past five; the action had only lasted thirty ^ve minutes, and we had passed all the forts. As evening was closing in, it was determined to anchor for the night about two miles above the city. Captain Barker, in consultation with Captain Osbom, then decided that the imperti-nence of the rebels in offering resistance to our progress up the river in the exercise of our treaty-right, and firing upon a flag of truce, ought not to go unpunished. In this view Lord Elgin fuUj concurs; and it is accordingly arranged that at daylight to-mor-row we drop down abreast of the batteries, and hammer them into ruins and their garrisons into submission.

BENEWAI. OF THE ACTION. 6O5

CHAPTER 35.

CHAPTER XXXV.

Renewal of the Action.— *A stiarp Bombardment.— *The Bfttteriet silenced.— > An Action between Rcbvb «nd Im|)criati«ts. — PrugrcM up Stream.— *Tho Rcbel« re-ceive a Lctton.^We land fur Information. — Destitute Pcaaantr^. — Request to aid the Rcbt*U. — Notification in reply. — Enter the proWnrc Xgan-Iiwui.^A military PrDcos»ion. — ^Tho Eastern and Western Pillar Gate». — ArriTal at Woohoo. — A Letter from the Rebel Chief. — Wo imjr him a Vi»lt. — A disorderly Mob. — Varie-gated Cottamcs. — An imperialist Spy. — Former Condition of Woohoo.— Its pres-ent State. — A Tai-ping Mauife^ta

October 2\sL Day had not yet dawned when we were all awake and bustling on board the Furious. The vigorous fire kept up last evening, and the readiness evinced by the rebels to commence an engagement, led us to anticipate a sharp action to-day, and wo made our preparations accordingly. The morning was chill and biting, but the blood was circulating pretty rapidly in the veins of most of us nevertheless, and we were warmed with the healthy glow arising from the excitement of anticipation. Gradually the two hills, upon the sides and round the base of which Nankin is situated, loomed through the early haze, and then the long line of batteries on the right bank became indistinctly visible.

Opposite, the solitary fort of Poo-kow was appropriated exclu* sively to the Cruiser; and as we scanned the fair proportions of that handsome craft, we doubted not that her eighteen guns would render a very good account of its battories. Gradually the details of the scene became wond(»rfully distinct ; the batteries seemed get-ting suddenly larger; and I for the first time discovered that we -were no longer at anchor, but floating silently with the tide into the respective positions allotted to the different ships.

As the Poo-kow battery was the nearest, the Cruiser got first

i nto action, and her gallant commander, Bythesea, seemed determ-

i ned not to give the garrison any excuse for missing him. Ho

nuiged his ship steadily up to within fifty yards of the guns, as

tliough taunting the enemy to begin, and then opened his broad-

.wi*le with telling effect. A few feeble shot were returned in re-

jfl V ; but so rapid and destructive was the Cruiser's fire, that it

s^nA evident the fort of Poo-kow was not long destined to be the

.'t>/i<ling-placc of its brave garrison.

506 ^ SHARP ENGAGEMENT.— THE BATTEBIES SILENCED.

The discharge of our own pivot-gun roused us from the con-templation of the Cruiser's achievements, and the remaining tbiee ships now began, in concert with ourselves, to pour such a sU>nn of shot, shell, grape, and rockets into the batteries, that our fire of the previous evening seemed mere child's play to the bombard-ment we were now keeping up. It evidently produced its e£fect in the rebel batteries, for they replied but feebly and at intervals. From the main-top-gallant cross-trees I could look down into the forts, and see the men in bright dresses clustering round the guns, or grouped in sheltered comers, or bolting like rabbits fiom some spot where a Moorsom shell had just burst, scattering fragments and spreading dismay far and wide.

The one-sided nature of the action may be gathered from the £Eict that, during the hour and a half that it lasted, we were only hulled once, while no casualties occurred on board any of the ships. It was evident that either our bombardment of the previ->ous evening, or the suddenness with which we opened fire this morning, had thoroughly cowed our opponents. Their fire grad-ually ceased entirely, and, as an ardent yoimg midshipman lugu-briously remarked, " they seemed determined not to show us any sport." So the original intention of landing and spiking the guns was given up, and we withdrew, the less reluctantly as we ob-served the imperialist fleet through which we had passed the evening before plucking up heart, and, led by a steamer in the service of the Chinese government, commence a fierce action at a three-mile range.

When the rebels saw that we were in no way connected or co-operating with this valiant squadron, they opened fire upon it manfully from some of the batteries which had suflfered least from our bombardment ; and as we steamed away up the river, we could hear the action still raging ^riously, in all probability with very slight consequences to either side.

The Chinese commissioners at Shanghai had appointed a pett^ mandarin to accompany us, whose presence was intended as a guarantee, to the authorities with whom we might come in cost tact, of our recognized right to navigate the waters of the Ta-kiang, and who was also expected to assist us in commissariat and other arrangements. This gentlem^ lived in a boat which ve towed astern, and which, upon the morning of the action, was left at anchor in the stream, while its occupants were taken on board

ACTION BETWEEN REBELS AND DIFEBIALISTS. 507

the Croiser for safety, where they remained in a considerable state of alarm until it was over.

Wo observed the heights in rear of Nankin crowned with the tents and banners of the imperialist forces investing the city, their encampment extending apparently for many miles*

Shortly after, we observed a fleet of junks ahead which we pre* somed to be rebel, more especially as wo saw them firing appar-ently at the Dove, then our leading gun-boat Mr. Wade was ac-cordingly sent on in the Leo to investigate, and discovered them to be an imperialist squadron engaging the advanced rebel batter-ies in this direction.

The action was so feebly maintained that we passed through the midst of it without condescending to notice the fire of cither side.

An island about eight miles long extends firom Nankin to this point, where the rebel batteries are separated from the imperial po-sition of Hea-san-shan by a narrow creek. This is the only point held by the imperialists on the south bank between Nankin and a post a few miles above Woohoo, or about sixty miles higher up the river.

We now observed ranges of hills, apparently varying between one and two thousand feet in height, on both sides of the river. Those to the north were at a great distance, and only occasional-ly visible. The southern ranges, however, in some places approach the river, decreasing in elevation, and forming a line of blu£& over-banging the water. The plain which intervened between us and the northern ranges was apparently thinly populated, and, as far as we could discern, an expanse of nuurshcs and moorland. We passed only one insurgent position on the northern bank, that of Too-tse-ke ; and in the distance wc could distinguish the pagoda of Ho-chow, the chief city of a department of the same name, and now in the bands of the rebels. It is mentioned by Sir John Da-vis as having been visited by some of Lord Amherst's party on the occasion of their ascent of the river in 1816. When we refer to tlieir account of the traffic upon its waters in those days, it is mel-ancholy to think of the change which the last few years have ^v%* rough t upon the internal trade of central China. During the Trbole of this day's steaming we did not observe a single junk upon this magnificent highway of conunerce.

We were destined not to close the day, which had commenced

508 "1^^ REBELS RECEIYE A LESSON.

SO noisily, without a little more excitement. Upon Tonnding a bold bluff whicli projected into the river, we came suddenly upon a small town, built in a recess of the hills, and protected by two or three circular stone redoubts, mounting three or foar guns each. These we were inspecting through our telescopes, veiy much in the spirit in which a Newfoundland would investigate a lapdog, when, to our amazement^ a posse of swaggering rebels came trooping down to the water's edge,' dressed, as is usual with them, in many-colored gannents, flourishing yellow and crimson flags, and led by a horseman in a crimson coat and loose white trowsers, who looked extremely picturesque, caracoling and va-poring in front of his variegated men. He brandished a match-lock in his hand, which he fired defiantly at us, we being about five hundred yards distant at the time ; thereupon his followers exploded, in a futile and absurd manner, all their gingalls at us. This they did two or three times, and we slackened speed to watch their humors; but when they all repaired into one of the circular redoubts, and popped off one of their brass guns at us, we considered the joke had gone far enough, and sent a. round-shot whistling over their heads. But the flags waved more defiantly than ever ; so the Eetribution, making splendid practice, dropped a Moorsom right into the centre of the fort, sending the entire construction into the air, and those of its occupants who were still alive skimming along the bare hill side, their panic-stricken lead-er, now on foot, rolling repeatedly over and over in his headlong flight, and the bright garments of his soldiers streaming in the wind as they ran after him. The sight tickled Jack's fancy so much that he could scarcely stand by his gun for laughing.

The town itself was surrounded by a wall, and perched upon a low hill about fifteen hundred yards distant. A large crowd had collected outside the gate, chiefly composed of rebel soldiers watch-ing the proceedings. We sent them a ten-inch shell, just to give them some idea of our armament. The impression which this little episode produced was most salutary, as we found the same evening, when we anchored a few miles higher up, close to the prefectural city of Tai-ping. The place at which it occurred was called Tsae-shih-ke.

A division of the river into three channels just below Tai-ping baffled us a little before sunset; so we remained there for the night, and I went on shore with Mr. Wade for the purpose of ool-

I

DESTITUTE PEASANTRT. 509

lecting infonnatioD from some stray peasant near the river-bank with reference to the relative merits of the channels ahead. After the little experience v/e had just had of their fe^^lings toward us, wc were compelled to proceed with caution. As it was not deem* cd advisable to go out of sight or range of the ships, we landed near a hut a few yards from the river-bank, and walked up alone to reconnoitre it Not a soul was visible: a harsh-voiced cur, which bayed incessantly at us, was the only sign of life, until at last we dug out a very decrepit old woman, who refused to com-prehend Wade's excellent Chinese, till an old man, overhearing bU re]H'ated assurances that we should do them no harm, emerged from a place of concealment, but proved very little more intel-ligent than his better half His long matted hair only partially concealed the tail that was coiled up beneath it, while his cadav-erous countenance and ragged attire proved that he, at all events, had not thriven on rebellion. When we asked him whether he was a rel>cl, he answered with a shrug, *^ How could he be other-WK«o." He told us that he was wretchedly poor, and gave us to understind that he and all his neighbors had been utterly ruined by the ** troublesome pest*'," as they are commonly called by the Loyali5«ti». The asjxjct of the surrounding country fully confirm-ed our informant's account of the destitution of its inhabitants; for, in addition to the rural population which properly belonged to it, the fields were dotted with wretched straw huts, the tem-p)rary abodes of the townspeople, who had been ejected from their urban domiciles by the rebels, it being the practice of these vagabonds to appropriate to themselves the bouses of the unfor^ tunatc citizens.

The entire population in districts occupied by rebels allow their hair to grow, long hair being the distinguishing characteristic of the Tai-ping faction. Hence they arc commonly called "the Ion;i-li:iin (1 men." Generally, however, from prudential motives, thry |»nsrrve their tails concealed beneath their flowing locks, so that ill the event of their falling into the clutches of the imperial-i>ts, til' y ni.'v, by a rapid tonsure, be enabled to assume the as-j>' ct of a l<''':-tailed adherent of the imperial cause.

SIk'T-iIv ifttT our return to the ship a communication arrived from a ft 1 el chief at Tai-ping, inclosed in a yellow envelope, on oiio Fule «.r which was written, "Your younger brother, junior tdioii-ti* n <>r the navy, Hiung Kwang Ming, respectfully greets

510 REQUEST OF THE REBELS FOR AID, AND THE BEPLT.

your excellencies the foreigners." On the other, the date, "18th day of the 10th moon of the 8th year — ^viz., the Wu-Wu of the Heavenly Kingdom of Tai-ping," was covered by the official seal of the same Hiung, setting forth his titles as above.

Within he writes, after repeating the greeting written on the cover : " Whereas your younger brother is in chief command of the armed (2i^., gun) vessels of the Heavenly Kingdomi, and has been several years engaged with the boats of the demons without being able to exterminate them, he earnestly prays your fbieigQ excellencies, with all your heart and might, to assist him in anni-hilating the rebel vessels ; and your younger brother will present a memorial to the Heavenly King, moving him to confer titles and rewards on your foreign excellencies."

The inducements here held out were, unfortunately for the rebels, not sufficiently attractive to tempt Lord Elgin to assist them in the laudable undertaking of exterminating the "De-mons," or " Imps," as the imperialists are usually styled by the rebels.

The following notification was returned in reply to the above:

" The Earl of Elgin, embassador of her majesty the Queen of England, issues a notification : Whereas a number of her majesty's ships were on their way to Hankow, it was the particolar desire of the embassador that the party in possession of Nankin should understand that these ships were proceeding with no hostile in-tentions to them. For this purpose, a small vessel was sped&Dj detached in advance. A gun was fired on her, to which, in obe-dience to her instructions, she made no return, but hoisted a fiag of truce. The garrison of Nankin, notwithstanding, continued to fire at her. The forts commanding the passage have been, in consequence, taken and demolished, as a warning to all who may be hereafter minded to interfere with the ships of her majesty."

We subsequently learned that news of the punishment which we bad inflicted on Nankin this morning had reached Tai-ping by land as quickly as we had by water, and produced exactly the impression which Lord Elgin desired upon the rebel leaders at the forts farther up the river. The importance of securing our-selves from farther molestation by a vigorous display of force at the outset seemed to him to justify the somewhat rough treatment which the Nankin insurgents had experienced at our hands.

A feirther evidence of their desire to conciliate was obtained at

ENTER THE FBOVINCE OF NGAN-HWUI. 511

a late hour of the night After we had " turned in/' some of our party were knocked up to receive a present for Lord £lgin of a number of fowls and two pieces of red cloth.

22cL The gun-boats were under weigh early this morning, in-vestigating the respective merits of the channels ahead« At last we hit upon the right one, and, as we passed along it, obtained a good view of Tai-ping-foo. This is a prefectural city of the prov-inoe of Ngan-hwui, and has been for many years a strong-hold of the insurgents. It was first taken by them on the 7th of March, 1853. They speak of seven or eight thousand troops being quar-tered there.

Wc are now in the province of Ngan-hwui, having entered it yesterday, a few miles before arriving at Tai-ping. Ngan-hwui means "Peace and Excellence;" that is, the peaceful and excel-lent province. It was formerly joined to Kiang-su as one prov-ince, under the name of Kiang-nan. Its area is greater than that of Eiang-su, and is computed at from forty to forty-five thousand square miles. The area of these two provinces is about the same as that of the two states of New York and Pennsylvania, and the population of Ngan-hwui was computed, according to the last census, at about thirty-four millions.

We had scarcely cleared the intricate channels leading past Tai-ping when the Retribution took the ground, still within sight of the three pagodas of the city. The whole day was employed in getting her off. Meanwhile the time was not lost to our sur-veyors, who were actively occupied taking observations and map-ping out the river. A party of rebels communicated with Com-mander Ward while thus engaged ; they assured him that the fir-ing upon us at Nankin was quite a mistake; that orders had been given that we should not be fired upon again ; and that any de-scription of arms and ammunition, but especially percussion-caps, would be thankfully received. While at anchor at this point, we observed a force, which we estimated at about five thousand men, inarch out of Tai-ping, apparently in the direction of Woohoo. The stream of soldiers lasted for about three quarters of an hour ; they presented a gay and picturesque appearance: oflScers on horaebacky in red, blue, or yellow, and men in many-colored uni-forms, while hundreds of gaudy umbrellas and waving flags added Uy the brilliancy of the procession. Just before sun-down, to our infinite joy, the Retribution was hauled off her bank into deep

512 EASTERN AND WESTERN PILLAR GATES.

water; it was too late, however, to shift our position to-night> and sundry anchors have yet to be picked up, involving a little farther delay.

23d Under weigh about eleven. Fourteen miles from Tai-ping we reached the finest piece of scenery we have yet seen. The river here forces itself through a mighty barrier of rock, the precipitous walls of which rise from its waters; their rugged flanks are scored with zigzag paths and steps hewn out of tiie living stone, and their projecting ledges are scarped into batteries.

These fine masses of rock are called the Se-Ieang-shan and Tung-leang-shan, or Eastern and Western Pillar Hills^ or, more poetically, the Teen-mun, or Celestial Gate. The Se-leang-shan resembled in shape the Bock of Gibraltar on a small scale. Davis calls it five hundred feet in height ; I should not have estimated it at more than three hundred. Half way up he visited a temple in the rock, which is now, in all probability, converted into a guard-house. Crowds of gay soldiers thronged the batteries, their flags flaunting from dizzy pinnacles, and their guns perched on cngs where it looked a service of danger to work them. We congnU-ulated ourselves, as we passed through this narrow gorge— for the river was not more than half a mile in width — ^that the gar-rison had received orders to confine themselves to staring at us, which they did most eagerly.

This pass is the key to the upper part of the river, and would be impregnable in the hands of a civilized force. As it is, not an imperialist junk can show itself between Woohoo and Nankin; and as all the rebel junks have been destroyed, the river is entire-ly deserted. At the foot of the Se-leang-shan is a small town, guarded by a battery, and a slip of sand runs out from it into the river, upon which some raking guns might be placed. Immedi-ately on emerging from this defile we reach a bifurcation of the river. We follow the southern branch, which is deep and com-paratively narrow, winding under blufis which form its southern bank ; while on the flat island opposite are constructed a series of five forts, admirably neat, and substantially built The walls were apparently of solid mud. They were loop-holed for mus-kets, and cut into little embrasures for gingaUs. Cannon seemed scarce, and were confined to the angles, which were constmcted of stone.

These batteries were placed within half a mile of each other,

ABBIVAL AT WOOHOO. 618

cIo6e to the river margin, and were well garrisoned. Altogether, had our observation of the rebels been limited to the appearance presented by their fortifications and garrisons at this section of the river, we should have been led to form a much more favorable estimate of their power and resources than our subsequent investi-gations into them justified. The Celestial Gate was undoubtedly the point at which they seemed most formidable, and it will prob-ably be the last strong-hold which will remain in their hands. Report says that a good deal of their treasure is kept there.

About three o'clock in the aflemoon we sighted the two pago-das which mark the district city of Woohoo, and soon after came to an anchor before its long white walls. Woohoo is the highest point ever previously reached by a foreign ship, the American fiteam-fngate Susquehanna having visited it some years ago. Lord Amherst's mission, which ascended the river as far as the Poyang Lake, were conveyed up it in native boats. A large and motley crowd collected on the water's edge as we deliberately dropped our anchors just abreast of the principal gateway, and Mr. Wade was immediately sent on shore to open communication with them, the chief object of his mission being to obtain supplie& Our Chinese official was, of course, invisible on these occasions, as an imperialist in the heart of the rebel country. The bare notion that his presence should be suspected overwhelmed him with dismay.

Mr. Wade, who did not land, returned speedily with the in-formation which he had obtained from a Hoo-peh man, who de-scribed himself as an officer of the garrison, that the authorities were anxious to do all in their power to show us civility. A packet for Lord Elgin from IIow, the commandant at Woohoo, was also handed to him. It contained the original manifesto of Tai-ping-wang, brought down from Nankin in 1853, and the fol-lowing letter: "IIow, a Tsiang-tien-yen, the truly loyal and patriotic, by the heavenly command of the heavenly kingdom of Tai-ping, to the younger brethren of Jesus. Whereas, owing to the heavenly bounty of the Heavenly Father, and the heavenly t'Mer brother Jesus, the heavenly dynasty has been recently founded, and our truly Iloly Master, the Heavenly King, has U-en desired to descend on earth, and govern the empire (or the world), he has established his throne in the heavenly capital, and f _»r several years (the people of) the four seas have turned their

Kk

514 VISIT TO A REBEL CHIEF.

hearts to him, and the myriad places have felt his civiliziDg in-flnence. Five foreign ships belonging to you, the brethieQ of Jesns, have now come to the central kingdom of the heavenly dynasty, and have arrived in the department of Ning (Eiang-ning, or Nankin). Being in ignorance what propositions yoa have to make, I have sent a special messenger, Ya-hing-Iiing, to visit your ships and inquire. If you have any thing to settle, please inform me by letter. The 15th of the 10th moon of the Wu-Wu, or 8th year of the heavenly kingdom of Tai-ping."

As the matter we had to settle merely related to beef and vege-tables, Fitzroy and I returned to the shore with Wade, aooom-panied by Mr. Mainprize, the paymaster of the Furious. Mean-while Mr. Lay was sent in a gun-boat to communicate with some imperial junks^ the streamers of which were visible about thiee miles higher up the rivBr.

A noisy parti-colored crowd, jostling each other into the wster in their anxiety to inspect us, received us as we stepped on akoie. We were surrounded by a mob of these long-haired, long-robed ragamuffins as we walked into the fort through the wretched gateway which served as its principal entrance, and, passing akmg a narrow, half-ruined street, were ushered into a dilapidated ya-mun in a state of repair. Strains of discordant music announoed our approach to the high dignitary within, whom we found seated in solemn state behind a high table or altar, upon which stood two open carved jars like wine-coolers, of silver or imitation sil-ver, which contained long thin slips of wood covered with di-nese characters. The chamber was a small, square apartment hung with scrolls of yellow silk, covered with texts and mottoes in Chinese, belonging, apparently, as much to Confucianism as to Christianity ; and the presiding genius himself was a stoat, aat sual-looking man, with a keen eye, and an intelligent but bad cast of countenance. He was dressed in a robe of yellow, which td\ £rom his neck to his heels, and was devoid of ornament; round his head was wrapped an orange-colored handkerchief) in the centre of which, above the forehead, was fastened a single {»eoe of jade, mounted in a gold setting. His long hair was collected in a bag, and hung in the nape of his neck, as though in imitalkm of the fashion prevalent among English young ladies of the pits* ent day.

Bowing to us slightly as we entered, How — for so was

A DI80RDEBLT MOB. 515

great man called — beckoned us to chairs, the mob by which we had been followed crowding unceremonionsly into the small apartment Not the smallest respect was shown by the insubor-dinate rabble to their leader, who strove in vain to keep them from pressing round, much to the disparagement of the dignified mamier which he evidently desired to maintain in our presence, and by which he hoped to impress us with a due sense of his rank and importance. The odor of garlic which pervaded his undisciplined retainers, their boisterous and noisy manner and filthy aspect, rendered our audience by no means so agreeable as it might otherwise have been. A perfect equality seemed to reign, or rather an absolute confusion of ranks and persons, well dressed and ragged, old and young, thronged impetuously into the little room. It struck me, however, that the young predomi-nated : many of these had been rebels idl their lives, and had no tails, but generally the tail was wrapped round the long tangled hair.

How told us that to his functions of commandant and judge he united those of high-priest The thin slips of wood in the silver vases were inscribed with various punishments, and the form of sentencing consisted in his selecting and throwing to the criminal the punishment to which he was condemned. The building itself was, like its occupant, partly ecclesiastical and partly secular. But we could not obtain from How any very precise description of the form of worship at which he presided. Indeed, we were not tempted to prolong our visit beyond what was necessary, and we gmve him a list of our wants, which was rapidly transcribed by his secretary, who stood near him, and concealed the eyes of a countenance which bore a villainous expression with a pair of huge green goggles. His dress consisted of a flowered crimson 5ilk robe, and reached to his heels. Near him stood another scribe, in a bright pea-green tunic and loose red trowsers. Pres-ently appeared another high official, apparently of equal rank with How, for he took a seat next to him, and commenced a de-iil>erate and somewhat insolent survey of our persons. Ilis head -was wrapped in an orange handkerchief, like his colleague's, but hifl robe was of purple, above which he wore a flowered lilac silk tunic These gay colors looked bright enough when they hap-pr^nod to be new, but those of the crowd were for the most pail iaded ; the material of which their garments were composed was

516 AN IMPERIALIST 8FT.

shabby and torn, giving them a tawdry, disreputable appearance, which was not belied by the dissipated, haggard expreasion of their countenances.

The leaders were Canton men of the worst description. Drank* enness and opium-smoking were prevalent vices, as one of theii number, who spoke Canton English, and was evidently a black-guard o^the first water, unhesitatingly admitted. In the original code promulgated by Tai-ping, opium-smoking was punishable by death. One of the first questions we were asked by How was, " What have you got to sell?" They were evidently skeptical when we denied that we were traders, and How recurred to the subject before we left him. He had been a merchant in a small way at Canton.

We now proceeded to the exploration of the surrounding streets^ and found that we were not in the town, but in a militaiy post, consisting of three separate forts on eminences, with a ooUecdon of mean houses round them, and a wall, inclosing the whole within its circumference, extending for some distance along the river margin.

The town of Woohoo we could see about a mile and a half in-land. The pagoda was outside the wall, and in order to visit it we passed under a gateway, at which we saw a man chained to the wall by his neck. He was said to be under suspicion of b^ ing an imperialist spy. The pagoda consisted of five stories, and was very dilapidated, and the guns on the waUs of the forts were very inferior and of small calibre.

We were accompanied on our rambles by a crowd, with the more intelligent of whom Wade got into conversation upon relig-ious subjects ; but their theology was of the vaguest description, and did not prevent them from using the foulest language to each other. ,

We saw very few women, and they were evidently all fixjm the north, probably captured on some of their raids in that direcdoo. It was said that an order had been issued at the conmienoeine&t of the movement prohibiting wives^ and that these had, in oonse-quence, all been taken from their husbands, but subsequentlj re distributed differently.

We had not time to visit the town of Woohoo, which Davis describes as the largest of its class in China. " The streets,^ he remarks, '^ proved, on inspection, to be superior to those of many

PRESENT STTATE OF WOOHOO. 617

of the firstrclass cities, and some were as large and well famished with handsome shops as at Canton. It is to the great inhuid com* merce carried on by this line that such unusual wealth and pros-perity is to be referred." It is interesting to compare the above notice of Woohoo with that of Mr. Wylie, who remained behind with the Retribution, while we were up the river, and visited Woohoo, of which he gives the following account:

'* The district city of Woohoo, on the south bank, belongs to Tai-ping-foo, from which city it is distant fifty miles by land, with free communication for the insurgents, who have held it since the 4th of March, 1853. The city stands inland from the river about a mile and a half, on the border of a canal, but little is now left standing of it except the wall, and a part of the two principal streets, extending about half a mile each inside to north and east gates, and nearly as far outside. These contain the stores of the few remaining shopkeepers, who appear to be ill at ease in the pursuit of their avocations.

" The houses are divided among the various companies of fight-ing men quartered there, most of them having up a placard indi* eating the officer to whom they belong. Many of the houses have very extensive premises in rear of the shops, where the men and horses find shelter, with the utmost disregard to every thing like order or cleanliness.

*' There are two or three official residences in the city, one be-ing that of the medical officer to the army, appointed by imperial commission. Outside the west gate, nearly up to the river, is one vast field of broken bricks and tiles, with nothing but foundations remaining to show what must once have been a very extensive suburb. A walled camp has been built along the river front by the Tai-pings, with a succession of six forts on natural mounds, the approaches to which are defended by stockades, and the rising ground thickly studded with pitfalls. Apart from the conmiand-ant, How, the chief officer, who has his yamun in the camp, is Hwang Yuh Ching, 23d, (left hand or) chief minister of state.

** Every fort has its general, with his number altached. They have changed the name of the country about there to Ning-Keang. About eight or ten miles to the south they have a camp, at Ilnrang-che, where several severe skirmishes have taken place lately. On the opposite side of the river, at Urh-pa, are also sev* era! forts which have been taken from the imperialists."

518 A TAI-PING MAMFBSTO.

On our letum voyage down the river we received at Woohoo a communication purporting to emanate from the rebel Celesiial emperor himself written on a long roll of yellow edlk, in red char-acters, being, in ^ct, a manifesto addressed to foreigners generallj. but endorsed in this instance, *' For the jewel glance of his excd-lency, the Earl Lai, imperial commissioner of Great Britain." I annex a copy of this very singular production, which will conyer a better idea than any I could obtain from conversatioa with the rebels of the nature of their theology, and the amount of their ac-quaintance with Holy Writ. Of the'extent to which they prac-ticed its tenets it was not so difficult to form an opinion :

TRAKBLAIION of a MaKIFESTO or DeCREB ADDBB88ED BT THB HeAX> OT TOE

Tai-piko Inbuboekts to Foreiohers.

Tho following composition was left at Wa-hu by Lin, a rebel chief of high degree^ who, it appears, had been sent thither with it fr6ni Nankin, and was foond st the former place when the Retribation mored down thither from Kin-hien. It is writ-ten on yellow silk, in red characters — t. e., with the vermilion pencil of majesty, aid was inclosed in a yellow paper envelope, on the side of which was written,

'* Within [the cover] is presented one document'* — the word presented being thst which indicates the sabmission of papers or information to a superior; tfaes tht date— viz., the — day of the 11th Moon of tho W»- Wuy the 8th year of tlie Cdotial Kingdom of Tai-ping (Universal Peace).

Over the date are two impressions of seals ; above, a circular one with aone mvsdc engraving not very clearly defined, with the character pu, universal, in the maigin. and below, an oblong one, like a Chinese title-page, reading as IbHovn: "Cin Hinng-pang, the loyal and patriotic Pn-T*ien Ten of the Celestial Kingdom cf die Tai-ping, appointed to the Board of Works, the officer of the Winter.**

It is no doubt this person (who, by his surname Chu, is probably one of tfaoK that trace descent from the stock of the Ming Emperors), who employs the character /m on the cover, as.the letter, or manifesto itself is as from superiors to inlerion.

On the other side of the cover is the address, which, it is onderstood at Wu-hu, '* For the jewel glance of his excellency the Earl Lai, Imperial sioner of Great Britain.'*

The writing within is mostly in seven-foot verse, of very small Uteniy and in indifferent handwriting — singularly indifibrent when it is borne in miad kom generally the educated Chinese are found to write decently, if not welL Maiiv ef the expressions establish it, in the opinion of a well-informed CaBtoneK^ to be die production of one of his fellow-prorincials.

The writer uses throughout the imperial pronoun chin or shin, which we ordiasrilj translate tpe.

The column b broken, according to Chinese custom, before names of honor : ikatf that refer, apparently, to the first Person of the Trinity rising two places; those in-dicating the second Person, one place. A character coined to represent the Holy Spirit is also allowed two places. It occurs but once. TNea, heaven, is raised in some lines two places, and is in such cases spelt with a capital letter in the tlon.

A TAI-PINO MANIFESTO. 619

h We pradaim for the infoniiAtion of our foreign youncer Ivelhiea oC the Wertern

OOMD,

2. The thing* of heaven dilTer eztremelj from the things of the world. 8. Tlie Ileavenl/ Father Shang Ti, the Imperial Shang Ti, 4. b the Mcred (or sainted) Father of one and all that hearen orenpveadf. ft. Onr niertne elder brother it Jerat.

6. Oar uterine jonnger brother it Sin-tsing.

7. In the third moon of the year mo^hin (1846) Shang Ti descended,

8. And commissioned the King of the East to become a mortal (/tT., a worid man).

9. In the 9th moon of this year the Redeemer descended,

1<X And commissioned the King of the West to manifest divine poirers. U. The Father and the Elder Brother led ns to sit on [the throne of] the heav-enly kingdom ;

12. With great display of authority and might to sit in the hall of heavmi;

13. To ms^e the heavenly city oar capital, to found the heavenly kingdom ;

14. [That] the ministers and people of all (Jii,, the myriad) nations mjght do hom-age 10 their Father-Emperor.

15. The chapel (or temple) of the True Spirit is within the heavenly ooort

16. The chapel of Ki4u (Christ) is alike glorious forever.

17. In the year ting y (1837) we ascended to heaven.

18. The Father, with words of truth, bestowed on us a volume of verse, *

19. Enjoining us to read it well and to regard it as a proof :

SO. By the verms to know (or acknowledge) the Father and to keep steady. 31. The Father moreover commanded the Elder Brother to instruct us how lo read it.

22. The Father and the Elder Brother did personally instruct us, and laid their injunctions upon us again and again.

23. The Heavenly Father Shang Ti is in the measure of hb capacity as the depth

of the sea.

34. Up to the thirty-third heaven the demons burst their way. 25. The Father and Elder Brother, taking us with them, drove them away time after time. 26w Supported by the officers and soldiers of heaven on either side of them,

27. They smote on this occasion two thifds of them ;

28. FWun one gate of heaven after another were the demons and goblins repulsed,

29. Until they were all driven down below (or to earth, or under the earth),

30. And but a remnant of them were left. [Thus] was the august Father (or the Father's majesty) made manifest.

31. The Father subsequently (or, then) desired us to return to the worid, [promis-

32. In an things to be oar support

83. He enjoined us to set our heart at rest and not to be akrmed;

34. He, the Father, would come forward. His iigunctions wen repeated twice and again.

35. In the year va^ia (1848), when the King of the South was besieged in

Kw«*ping,

86w We besought the Father to come down and manifest his terroii.

37. We had returned from Kwang Si to Kwang Tung ;

38. The Heavenly Father did come down to the world, and rescued [the King] oT the Sooth.

520 ^ TAI-PING MANIFESTO.

39. The King of the East redeems from sickness ; he is m holy qilrit.

40. The Father sent him down with a commission to exterminate the demoos.

41. He destroyed goblin-deyils without number,

42. And so was enabled to arrire without delay at the capital (Nankin).

43. When the Father descended to the world he made known his holy wHL

44. All this we read, and committing it well to memory,

45. We knew the Father's infallibility (or that his power conld not failX

46. And were brought by the Father and the Elder Brother to fomd the [dynasty of] T*ai Ping.

47. The Father having deputed the King of the East to redeem from askoem,

48. [On behalf of] the blind, the deaf, and the dumb^

49. He suffered infinite misery.

50. When fighting the demons he was wonnded in the neck and fell headlong.

51. The Father had declared by his holy decree,

52. That when our warriors went forth they would haye inezfHnessible afflietioD;

53. That when they come to the court (Nankin ?) they would suffer severely.

54. [The words of] the Father's holy decree were all accomplished.

55. The Elder Brother to ransom sinners gave his life ;

56. He became a substitute for myriad myriad thousands of the people of ^ world.

57. The King of the East, in ransoming the sick, suffered equally widi the Elder Brother,

58. And when he fell with the pestilence he returned to [the place of] spirit^ to thank the Father for his goodness.

59. Which is the right among the writings of the Father and the Elder Brother it is impossible to know ;

60. He who would choose the true must ascend to high heaTcn.

61. The holy decrees of the Father are numberless. *

62. We declare the general purport of one or two.

63. It is some years since the Heavenly Father descended into the worid.

64. He was accompanied by the Heavenly Brother, whose distreas was as greit « formerly.

65. Jesus is your Redeeming Lord,

66. And continues with all his mind to instruct and Miitn^jfth.

67. The Heavenly Father produced T^siucn to be your ruler.

68. Why are you not loyal to the utmost ? why do you willfnlly (or wno^) p0* sue your former coune ?

69. Tou have often [been guilty of] serious disobedience of commattds.

70. Were we not to issue our decrees your boldness would be great as beam.

71. For whom was it that the Heavenly Father descended ?

72. For whom did Jesus throw away his life?

73. Heaven has sent you down a king to be your true lord.

74. Why are you so troubled, your hearts so unsettled ?

75. Let your sons in all parts quit their houses,

76. Leave their homes, resolved to be loyal ministers ;

77. Come forward to aid their king, fierce as tigers and leopards;

78. Knowing that now they have a ruler they can be men.

79. If you believe not that the best in the world has appeared in aa»

80. Yet bethink yon that the Spirit Father errs not in the ruler he estafaliihei (£L| sets up a ruler true).

I

A TAI.PING ICANIFESTO. 521

81. AceepI m proof of the indqiendent amhority of heaTen,

82. That thoagfa a thousand tarronnd [un] with vaJor and daring, they are broken uthednat.

83. Th« mjriad coantriet, the myriad nations, throng in myriads to [ou] court.

84. [Onn are ?] the myriad hills, the myriad watem, at infinite distance.

85. For a myriad /• myriad eyes throng their way op.

86. All (lU., myriad) knowledge, all happiness, all merit [is ours? or, heaven's?]

87. Wonld [a man] conceal any thing from IIcaTen, let him not say that HeaTco is ignorant of it.

88. HeaTco measnres as far as the sea in deep ; yea, and brther.

89. See now yonrselres without courage or resolution.

90. How long will yon not be faithful serrants ?

91. Bemember that if in the third watch [of the night] yon escape along the dark

92. The Tengeftil demon win blind (or bewilder) you before daylight. 98. Walk each of yon, in the true path for our king ;

94. Beliere the HeaTenly Father, and doubt not.

93. Ilearen produced the rightful ruler to govern the empire (A., the hills and 0.

n$ tenet mniMer* fir tk$prta«Htf the writer proeeedg im proee tkmt:

When Shang 11 sent down his holy decree (Ht,, thb single sentence of a holy d»-cree\ he commanded us to add three sentences. We added [these] :

96. The Heavenly Father, and the Heavenly Elder Brother have great distrea of mind (have loo much to think oO ;

97. All authority and power reverts to the Supreme Ruler (Sham; Ob).

98. How is happiness to be given to the whole empire of Tai-ping? Shang Tl tent down another holy decree, saying,

99. In the nine-fold hearen let there be one King of the East,

100. To aid the empire as a counselor long to endure.

When Shang Ti declared his holy pleasure in these two lines, he desired ns to add fwo more. In accordance vrith the holy pleasure of the Father, we added these two :

101. Ho-nai the teacher, who is at the same time the lord redeemer from disease,

102. Is the great support of all the people in the wortd. At a later period Shang Tl made a change, saying,

lOS. Lei there be appointed a pair of ph«nixes, one to the east and the other to

104. Lei the eati, west, north, and south do homage to them (turn to them as the

). Shang Tl made another change, saying,

105. Let there be appointed a pair of phcmizes, one to the east and the other to

106. And lei them. In gratitude for the bounty of Hearen that has descended on tJiem, do homage together.

107. This purport of the Father's holy pleasure, in general terms,

108. Do we trathftiUy declare for the information of yoo, our foreign yonnget

109. That the Heavenly Father and the Heavenly Elder Brother really detccnd OB earth, HO. Is proved to be true by the verses of the Father.

522 ^ TAI-PING MANIFESTO.

111. Their (or His) diyine inteUigence and mathoritj w<Ntl8 can not ielL

112. Come soon to the heavenly temple, and yon will be sensible of it.

118. The Chief Elder Brother Jesns is the same (or of the same fashion) vilk the Father.

114. Not a half sentence of [their] holy decrees shall be changed*

115. Shang Ti, the Heavenly Father, is the true Shang Ti (or is Shang Ti. the Supreme Ruler, indeed).

116. Jesus, the Heavenly Elder Brother, is Heavenly Elder Brother indeed.

117. The Father and the Elder Brother set us to rule the heavenly kingdom ;

118. To sweep away and eztenninate the devilish spirits; bestowing on as gveat honor.

119. Foreign younger brethren of the Western Ocean, listen to our woids.

120. Join us in doing service to the Father and Elder Brother, and cztingnidi the stinking reptiles.

121. In all things the Father, the Elder Brother, and onxself an master (or, act independently of any one eke).

122. Come, brethren, enthusiastically, and merit all honor. ' 128. When we were traveling in Kwang-tung some time ago^

124. In the hall of worship (Hpai-t^ang) we addressed Lo Hian-tsinen.

125. We then told him that we had been up to heaven,

126. And that the Heavenly Father and the Heavenly Elder Brother had cob-mitted to us great authority.

127. Is Lo Hiau-tsiuen now come hither or not?

128. If he be, let him come to court and speak with us.

129. We are the second son of Shang Ti.

180. The Elder Brother and the King of the East are oar uterine brothen.

131. All as one family together adorning the Heavenly Father,

132. There shall be univoBal peace {t^aipHng) on earth. It was said long ags^ lOr it may mum]. We form one family [above] under the Heavenly Father; ce

earth we are [the dynasty] T^ai P*ing, as we said long ago (or, as was long ago foR-told). 188. The kingdom of heaven is (or was) at hand ; now that it ia eome,

184. Brethren of the Western Ocean, be of good cheer.

185. In former days, when we ascended to heaven, we saw what waa destioed If the Father,

186. [To wit, that] the myriad nations should aid us to monnt the heavenly lover.

187. What the Father destined has now come to pass.

188. Put forth your strength for Heaven ; it is a duty, yes, it is a du^.

189. For the Father, and for the Elder Brother, slay the demon goblins,

140. Out of gratitude to the Father for your birth and growth ; and when yoa have conquered in battle, return (or, and yon will be victorious in fight).

141. We, the ruler, have given the young ruler, [our son], to be adopted fay Jem;

142. As the adopted of the Elder Brother and onnelf to sit in the heannlf capital.

148. The young ruler, as one half the son of Jesus,

144. And one half our son, is the object (or recipient) of the protection of Hearan.

145. [Thus] for generations the young ruler, as the son of Shang Ti,

146. Inherits from the Elder Brother and onrself the whole empire.

147. Brethren of the Western Ocean, adore (or, yon adore) the Snprene (Slaa^ Om).

A TAI.PINO MANIFESTO. 628

US, It ii our wUb duU the Father aod the Elder Brother shouU CMte it lo to be.

149. The Chief Elder Brother being in Une ptmt nniled oo « gaUowi ih«ped like the chancter lAtA, ten, «e. the ctom,

160. Left it M his sign. In this there is no mistake.

151. The mM uHmM la 1:0, the tenfold [that is, all] peffed, and all fivtnnale b oonelf.

15S. In all wajs [onr coone] is that destined by the Father.

153. That the Chief Elder Brother came to life again in three dajSi

154. And in three days built the temple. Is not a yain boast.

155. We were produced by the Father in three day* ;

15tf. We Imilt the temple of the Father and Elder Brother, and destrojed the derilish serpents.

157. In our third year kwtUUau {ISM) we beheaded the derilish serpents.

158. In the year yUk ymg (1855) we fxterminated the brutes, by the aid of the Father and the Elder Brother.

159. The serpents and brutes humbled and all exterminated forever,

160. The whole wddd together sings the soog of peace (or, the song of i*aip*imff).

161. Foreign brethren of the Western Ocean, you adore Shang Ti ; [and it is]

162. The Father and Elder Brother that have brought us to sit on the throne of the empire (the hills and streams).

163. We have now declared to yon the truth.

1 64. Come rejoicing to court, and give thanks to the Father and the Elder Brother.

165. By the memorials of our ministen

1 66. We have been informed of the coming of the brethren to the heaTcnly c^iital.

167. We have desired our ministers to treat yon with courtesy. *

168. As brethren in one harmonious community, be not doubtful or suspicious.

169. ApprehensiTO that the brethren might not be aware of four sentiments],

170. We hare iwued our manifesto to show our sympathy with you.

1 71. Foreign brethren of the Western Ocean, worship Shang Ti

172. Man*s blessings, Ut.^ bounty and peace, are in this.

[/« rt/trrmg to the/bOtnemff notet Ms reader will U gmdui ly Ms mumUr of Uk

rerse.]

(L) Fyoetalm; tiM wwd ilfiiUlai to sddrsM utliorifeittTaiy m a torvMlgB.

(t.) OMuit TI, the moat booonbto smoog Chlnete tpMu; the tills adopud bj maay IVplsHsat

BlMlOBATftSi lo maalAlS UM BUM of Ood.

<e.> Mo^lalac b Yang Blo-Uinf, tlM £Mlsm King, who urogmtod lo hiawelf ■noog olh«' tttte that of Um Holy Spirit.

(lOi) Or, tntm of divinity.

(11 J r#, Iho FMhor, and JTo, tho Eldsr Brothtr, m Iho thumtttn sn —dwHoud to ntsa by Uw a«tlTo owirtint eao«iiltad| m a mlifcwry niggMtt, Bay bo bat Um i4i>yttflB la %■»'— »tt of tlw ChteoM chftmelan employad to opsn Johorah.

at.) To bo Iho Ugh-prtHtr

(11.) XoB-kiAff, Iho mmUmib eopilol, b aov, lo tho laranrsBla, tho Um-kif^ twitvaly oopltsL

Cl&> Tho boD of Iho Tmo SplHt, cMw-oAm-ftiiy, U iho tltlo fanDOriy tatea by o rmtwlinl nb-•tcBAry chopol ol Uonit Kong, bat nabaoqoently ohondonod.

c16.) jr<-f«si«lhoclisnietoninl«Bdodtoi«prBMnltlioirofdChilitlalhotfiniUtlaaflflhoT%ii-

flH.) Or,dldiBdeod: tbo egpWMJon b Contonow.

<90.) Koop oiondy, bo ooTod tram opMitlng, not ths dynaoiy, bnl Iho bob la hk eoodast; ako a

<9^> ttm ihirty-lhlid heoren brloofct lo fkliy Ul««, and iha Ukai

524 A TAI-PING MANIFESTO.

(80). Kir«l-]ifiig li A diatrict in Kwuag 8L

(48.) U0I7 will, tiM word! often rendered Decree ct thif Seered Hi^MTi ^^ Fleeel oT Om Brtf One;

068.) PeitileDce: the ward is often oied of rebellian. It maj here this 1igan»tv9 eenae hee, !■ whleli cue Yeng must be imderBtood to hare fallen In action. He ia bdlered to haTe ed b7 Talking Wang*i oiden.

(86.) Or, retained to his aptiit-nattueL

(BO.) The word rendered writingB ia fc*^tt, planta or grasi. Draoghta ofdoenaDentearelattiei ning land U*Au tez*, the gran character. That the tranniatton ia correct here is nneertain, hot m» more likely meaning has been suggested.

(87.) TsHohn is Hong Sin-taHuen, Tsi-ptng Wang, the leader of the present JuameCiaaL

(88.) Wantonly or extraTagantly renew or rqiair the past

(18.) Men not derila.

(79.) LiL^ the most preeioos tof the productions] of the hHIs and streams.

(80.) Tlie ^irit ii a newly-ooined chancter not in the T<ftTifionw

(81.) The text is obscure; it may mean, Rdying on the power of heaTen to play the chkt

(83.) Tliere is apparently here an allnslon to omnipotence and inBnify, but wbelheraa the attrfbote of Tsi-ping himsflf, or the Supreme Being, is not quite dear.

an,) A proverb much to the same effect as our commonplaoe Han anieeedaUem <

(lOL) Hie characters ^r* *ho and /J not, together make j^S win. Yang

retored to as the great physician.

(109.) Hie word: a character Is used here also which is not authorised, for aUlogethfer.

(108.) Thit/ung is the fsbulons bird of China.

a04.) Tike change, as wm be seen, Is of the greater part of the 104th Tcne, of which the mft b a revision.

(113.) Hie title Elder Brother preceding his name Yesu is, nererthdess, made one degree lav boe-oraUe by ita place in the «^"w»"

(liO.) As before. Our words as sovereign.

(in.) LiL^ EsUblish myriad-fold medt.

(184.) Lo, supposed to be the Bev.Issachar Roberts, from whom Hong ahKtsHoen is believed tebaTv obtained his ilrst idea of Christianity.

(148X Tte, sMh •4'ti> *l*o the number of completeness in China; ten parts is ten tenths, al.

(15L) There is a {day here on eMA, ten, the emdilz-ahaped chaiacter «*— »«««g also 1 leinilrtii. taA ttHuen^ perfect, which also is part of Hnng*s name. The ea^wesaien is rommnn Cantonese; out good Ibrtune.

(106.) Although the oonstraetlon does not grammatically warrant it, the intention of the plainly that his building the temple and routing the demons were also three-day operatinnsL

(16T.) The two last dates have retained one chazacter of the old nilneea cydle fjilaB, and ksn altered onft

A BATTLE BETWEEN REBELS AND IMPEEIALISTS. 525

CHAPTER 36.

CHAPTER XXXVI.

A Bittl« between Rebelf and ImperialUtt.-— An Exodus of the PopnUtion.— AnriTal at Kew-htien.— The Rebel Pofitkm.— Rebel TActict.--Deierted State of the Coon-07.— Tee-kiang.--Fine Scenery.— Recent Rebel Foitificmtiont.— A wild-boar Hont. — DcicriplioQ of the Countrj. — Ovr Pilot. — CnltiTation. — Uandarin Vitit-on, — Character of the Rirer-banb.— The Imperialist Fleet— A Visit to the Com* modore. — ^The Legend of the Ucn Barrier.— Approach to Ngan-king.— We en-gage the Forts.— Attack of the Imperialist Troops, — ^The eight-storied Pagoda. — Taetics of the Imperialists.— Their Tireatment of the Peasantry.- Toong-lew.

October 24. We weighed at daylight this morning, and about three miles above Woohoo passed a fleet of twenty imperialist junks, at a village called Loo-kiang. They were under command of a Canton man named Woo, with whom Mr. Lay made ac-quaintance last evening, .and who has politely furnished us with a pUot upon whom he declares we may rely. Eight or ten miles above this we passed a creek, at the mouth of which two imperial junks were stationed. Three or four miles up this creek the in-surgents have a camp at the town of Hwang-san-keaou, where they number upward of a thousand fighting men. When we pa^ed, the whole of this army, wjiich had evidently been strongly re-enforced, was hotly engaged with the imperial troops.

It is impossible to conceive any thing more highly picturesque, or theatrical in its effect, than the scene which now lay spread be-fore us. The hills were crowned with the gay flags of the rebels ; the rich autumnal tints upon the trees were as bright in their colors as the dresses of the soldiers grouped beneath them ; bodies of men were marching in gallant array down the park-like slopes, to meet the foe in the plain beneath. The imperialist position was upon the flat ground upon the river margin. Here they had erected straw screens and temporary earth- works, behind which a few small guns were placed, which were keeping up an apparent-ly harmless fire upon the enemy; Now and then groups of men eorrying gingalls would advance from the hostile ranks, and ap-proach to within two or three hundred yards of each other, fire their gingalls, and retire amid a great waving of banners. We oould not wait to watch the issue of the battle, which might last forever, if they continued to fight on the same principle.

526 '^^^ REBEL POSITION.

As we advanced we became still more enchanted with the sceneiy. Confused masses of wooded hills rose to a height of about two thousand feet, &om a plain channinglj diveisified by clumps of timber and rich cultivation. It was lamentable to ob-serve that this lovely landscape was being deserted bj its inhab-itants. It had not before been visited by the pestilent hordes who were now bearing down upon it ; and the peasantry, fearful lest they should prove successful in the contest which we had just seen them waging with the imperialists, were now honying away, to escape those scenes of rapine and violence which have inyaiia-bly marked their devastating track. Whole femilies might thus be seen trudging along the narrow pathways, the men staggering Tmder heavy loads of all their goods and chattelsy the women hobbling along on their small feet, their arms filled with babies. Cattle and poultry were being driven or carried by boys and ^rls. A great exodus was in progress. A few fisdnt wreaths of blue smoke were still curling, probably for the last time, from die cottages and hamlets dotted over the smiling landscape, destined before long to share the &te which had already overtaken the siu^ rounding country, where heaps of blackened cinders and mounds of brickbats alone remained to attest its once populous character.

"Sunk are thy bowers, in shapeless min all, And the long grass overtops the mouldering waU, And, trembling, shrinking from the spoiler's hand. Far, far away thy children leaTO the land.'*

The principal base of rebel operations, and the head-quarten of their army, was a town called Fan-chang, some twelve or four-teen miles in rear of the range of hills which skirted the sDTith bank of the river. To these hills, which are a debatable ground, separating the insurgents from the imperialists, the latter proba-bly owe their position, as, with the command of the river, they are always able to keep up their communication. Their princi-pal post upon its banks is Kew-hsien, a town we reached at 11 A.M. It was picturesquely situated under the hills. The peo-ple crowded to the shore to inspect us. They consisted largek of refugee peasjantry. As we were not likely to reach another imperialist town for some time, and the great draught of water of the Betribution rendered her an inconvenient ship with which to pioneer unknown waters, it was decided that she should remain here until our return from Hankow.

BEBEL TACnCS. 527

This arrangement afforded the officers a good opportunity of exploring the sorroonding country in search of game, while Mr. Wylie was enabled to obtain some interesting information with reference io the state of the rebels* We found, on our return, that a red deer, and upward of sixty pheasants, had fallen to the guns of the sportsmen, while the following account was furnished to Lord Elgin by Mr. Wylie as the result of his observation : ^^ Kew-hcen" (or hsien, as I have spelt it, as a distinct sibiladon was disoemible in its pronunciation) '' was formerly the site of the district city of Fan-cbang, which now stands fourteen miles in-land, in a plain surrounded by high hills. This city, which has been in the possession of the rebels for five years, belongs to the prefecture of Tai-ping. The present rebel governor is sumamed *Wei.'

" Eew-heen has some few vestiges of its former importance, but the place is now half in ruins, from previous visits of the insui^nts. A little bu^ retail traffic is carried on, chiefly dependent on the im-perial troops stationed there. These amount to from two to throe thousand, under the command of a general named Le. This man was the oonmiander of the besieging force at Eiu-kiang in May, 1858, when three European ships and twenty-five lorchas were en-gaged in the service. He has now under him companies of Ewang-tung, Che-kiang, and Shan-tung braves. About a dozen junks or-dinarily lie there, and some ten gun-boats. This place forms a centre of concourse for the peasantry from the surrounding coun-try, who are driven from their homes by the incursions of the rebels. Many fiunilies, with their whole households, are in a con-tinual state of migration, carrying bcddjng and utensils about wherever they go. These are not beggars, but refugees, who are glad to purchase personal safety by the temporary abandonment of their patrimonial dwellings. A great extent of country adjoin-ing the insurgent territory has thus become depopulated, and hos-tile encounters between Uie peasantry who remain, and the rebel invaders, are no uncommon occurrence. It is customary with the latter to make their advances by early dawn ; and when they find the peasantry unwilling to enter their service, collisions some-times ensue, which terminate in the death or disablement of the latter. In such cases the dwellings are reduced to a ruin, and thoa for many miles round scarcely any thing is to be found but bore mud walls. The natives who thus involuntarily enter their

528 DESERTED STATE OF THE COUNTRY.

service are not allowed the same freedom as the old adheientB &om the south ; and on occasion of afi&ays with the imperialista, it is said thej are placed in the front ranks, and fastened together by the tails. The imperialist communication landward betwe^ Kew-heen and Loo-keang is cut off by the rebels, but they have an open thoroughfare for their vessels on the river. The channel of the Yang-tse is here divided by three laiige islands in the cen-tre, two or three miles wide.

" The north bank is all held by the insurgents, who have also the departmental city of Woo-wei, the imperialist magistrate of which, Yeh, now has a temporary office in Kew-heen. There is also a rebel encampment on the north bank, opposite Hih-cha-chow, the island facing Kew-heen."

Mr. Wylie informed me that he had walked to Fan-cbang through a hilly wooded country, but did not enter the town. AH the hamlets and houses for the last six miles before reaching it weie in ruins. From the accounts he gave of their proceedings, we can not wonder at the absence of all sympathy with the reb-els on the part of the peasantry. Not only do they harry and squeeze these unfortunate people, but press the men by violeooe into their service, retaining for themselves all the best-looking of their women.

Kew-hsien, as its name implies, was formerly the district ci^, and its decaying pagoda and ruined temple do indeed impart to it an air of venerable, if not respectable antiquity. I can not say respectable, because the moral character of Kew-hsien is, so to speak, under a cloud. In consequence of a horrible crime hav-ing been committed there during the Ming dynasty, it was blot-ted out from the list of names in the government maps, and Fang-chang was made the district city : this disreputable locality thus became simply Kew-hsien, or " the town that was."

We exchanged our pilot here for a more brilliant-looking in£* vidual, and, with three parting cheers to the Betribution, hdd on our course up the unknown waters of the Ta-kiang.

A little above Kew-hsien a large branch of the river communi* cates with Lake Chaou-hoo, an extensive sheet of water. On the south we are struck by the romantic beauty of the Pan-tze-cbee rock, which rises in a sheer mass from the eddying stream, and is surmounted by the gray, mossy ruins of a temple and pagoda, embowered among trees of many hues.

i^

TEE-KIANG.— FINE SCENERY. 529

The hills rise from the water's edge in grassj slopes, partially wooded to a height of from two to three thousand feet, while love-ly valleys, richly timbered, open them up in a southerly direction. The range is called Ta-hwa-shan. It trends away to the south aud east at the village of Tee-kiang, which, with its three-arched bridge of heavy masonry, and its white but partially ruined 'houses, clustering up the hill side, or nestling among the trees at its base, reminded me of an Italian rather than a Chinese town. As it is only distant about five miles from Kew-hsien, Mr. Wy lie visited and thus describes it: "Te-kiang, which formerly oontain-(h1 about ten thousand inhabitants, is now a deplorable ruin. The tcw inhabitants that remain in the only existing street are in a (X)nstant state of apprehension, always in dread of a visit from the Tai*ping& One such took place by a party of from one to two hundred on the morning of the day on which the writer visited it ; but they were beaten oflf before reaching the town by the im-;>enalists, who have a few junks stationed there, under the direc* tion of the assistant general Tang Kwo-leen. At Hwang-boo, a *«mall town ten miles up the creek, it is reported there are a thou-<ind or more of the insurgent party ; and Shungan, a town a few miles fiuther up, is also held by them. The whole country seems t4 > \yc open to them from Fan-chang to Tung-ling, the chief city of the adjoining district westward, which is also in their pos-

»

The river now abruptly leaves the range, which takes a south-

kfi^erly direction, and, expanding into wide reaches, twists and '<.»ZcIs itself back like a huge serpent, embracing large flat islands . li its coils, but roost imposing in breadth and appearance.

We frequently could get no soundings with ten fathoms, and iiiade, in consequence, rapid progress.

We passed on the north bank an imperialist position at Pih-

'.'la-tsing, which seemed, however, to be surrounded by rebels in

hi? immediate neighborhood ; and, a little before sunset, anchored

'«>r the night between rich alluvial banks, extending in a level

.Iu.ixi to the base of distant hills.

THse scenery through which we have passeil to-day is infinitely ho finest we have yet seen since entering the river.

2o^. Weighed at daylight. We found that our anchorage last ; 2urh ^ had been upon the outskirts of a rebel position on the north ^o]c« A number of flat, rush-covered islantls here split the

Ll

530 RECENT REBEL FORTIFICATIONS.

stream, the southern branch, which Lord Amheist's Embaasj fol-lowed, passing under the walls of Tung-ling, the chief city ci the district, and a strong rebel position.

I made a practice, during my progress up the river, of spending a great part of the day in the top-gallant cross-trees, from whid elevated post of observation I could always obtain a good view of the surrounding country. I now looked northward over a vast well-cultivated plain, extending for about ten miles to the base of a range which we estimated at three thousand feet in height The inhabitants of the islands were gathering the reeds and stack-ing^them, apparently for fuel.

The rebel town of Too-cheaou, on the north bank, presexded a very un-Ohinese appearance of whitewash and cleaoilineflB. It was situated about a mile from the river, and was surrounded br a white wall, which had evidently been lately built, while the for-tifications bore all the appearance of recent construction. To judge by the mass of ruins and debris, which spread frcHn the water's edge to the foot of the wall, the town must formerly ban extended to the river.

The next point of interest at which we arrive is the Nang-shao* ke rock, a precipitous bluff on the southern bank, overhangiiig the stream, in which a rocky path had been scarped, and steps cot to facilitate the tracking of boats.

The summit was richly wooded, the ruined walls of a temple rising out of the tinted foliage. The stream here forms a broad single sheet of water, but just beyond this it is divided into three branches by two low wooded islands, the lai^gest of which is call-ed Ho-yeh-chow, from a plant like arrow-root which it prodnoes. We again followed the northern branch.

The celebrated mountain of Kew-h wa-shan, fiunoos among oth-er things for the enormous bamboos which it produces, now be-came visible in the hazy distance, reaching an elevation, probabh of from 4000 to 5000 feet The range of which it fonna part ap-proaches the river abruptly, and one of its spurs is the bluff ji^-mentioned. This range, like that behind Kew-hsien, Umits thi rebel incursions ; they hold the country in rear, but the rivcp4)ank-are here imperialist The nearer summits were not above 20ft' feet in height: their slopes were well timbered, and wattt^ bv numerous streams, whose course was marked by fertile valkys-While gazing at this interesting sceneiy through oor glasses, om

A WILDkBOAB HUNT.— TA-TOONG. 531

attention was suddenly distracted by some remarkable evolationf on the part of the Dove. She had begun to pirouette in mid-!$tream in a manner quite unaccountable, until we made out the signal '* wild pig." We then discovered that she was engaged in an exciting wild-boar hunt She succeeded in lowering a boat and a^>turing the grisly monster before he could reach the bank, and hoisted in her prize with great triumph. His long wiry hair, gleaming tusks, and bristling mane were* undeniable evidence of his savage character, even had he not shown sufficient ferocity in his endeavors to avenge himself on his pursuers to put the matter beyond a doubt We afterward found in his head a pQce de rt* iisianct^ which was a most valuable and palatable addition to our larder. No sooner was the boar disposed of than we observed a number of porpoises disporting themselves in the muddy stream. Our time, however, did not admit of our attempting the capture of any of these " river pigs," as they are called by the Chinese.

Looking southward across the island, we observed the houses of Ta-toong, an imperialist position, but closely invested by the rebels, whose flags we could see flying from the hills immediately in rear.

Lord Amherst's party were detained here by contrary windn for four days, and had therefore a good opportunity of exploring the surrounding country. As we were denied any such advant-age, I quote a few lines of Mr. Ellis's description of the neighbor-hood. " I had a delightful walk," he says, " through this truly romantic country. All the valleys are highly cultivated with wheat, rice, cotton, and beans ; the houses substantial, and shaded by trees, some of a very large size, in growth resembling the oak. The leaf is forked, and I believe the tree itself is of the maple spe-cies. Pudding-stone and sandstone composed the greater part ol the hills we crossed to-day. They are all in a rapid state of dis-I ntegration. Oreat varieties of the oak have been observed here. We have called the jagged lofty mountains the Organ Pipes, fix>ni their resemblance to those at Rio Janeiro. The soil of the hills u^ |X>or and gravelly, adapted for little else but woodland. We havi* remarked several plantations of the pinaster. We observed great varieties of the fern. The oak plantations are kept very low, the cwigs being used for fire-wood : bundles of oak bark were exposed lor sale in the market, employed, I believe, as by us, in tanning. The dried broad leaf of the nelumbrium serves as ftiel to the low-

532 Oim PILOT,— CULTIVATION.

er orders, many of whom we saw Tetuming to their homes with heaps of it"

I observed from the deck some beautiful effects of coloriiig in the foliage, the dark green of what appeared a species of Scotch ar contrasting channingly with the varied tints of the maple, or the deep red of the £euling leaves of the tallow-tree.

Our pilot proves quite a character, most communicative and anxious to impart information, but how far it is to be relied upon remains a question. He certainly is not to be depended on in the capacity for which we had engaged him ; but he made xip for his deficiency in this respect by self-sufficiency and quiet impudence, becoming, nevertheless, highly excited whenever we touched the bottom, as upon these occasions he considers that his head is in danger for getting us into a scrape. He has already made firiends with sundry sailors, frequents much the stoke-hole upon cold mornings, and appears on deck in a pair of long woolen stock-ings, which have been served out to him finom the ship's stares. Cigars are his especial weakness, and, in order to enjoy them, he perches himself in the chains like a monkey, and smokes in a sybaritic manner, expressive of keen enjoyment* Altogether, he considers that he has performed his functions as a pilot ii^ after we have got aground, he emerges firom ^ome place of concealment, and tells Captain Osbom that at this place the water is not deep, the proper channel being quite in another direction, which he does not venture to specify, but disappears again to finish his cigar. and contemplate the consequences to himself of our unpleasant situation.

This worthy now informs me that the principal staples of cul-tivation in this district are wheat, cotton, millet, potatoes, rice, and hemp. In the neighborhood of Toong-lew, a city at which we are to arrive to.morrow,^they grow tea of an ordinary descriptkwL which is sold at tenpence a pound. Tobacco is also grown at a place some distance inland. There is no silk cultivated in this neighborhood. The pilot states that he himself was employed in the junks which transported grain for the annual supply of Pefcin prior to the demolition of part of the Grand Canal and the occor pation of the river by the rebels. He holds the rebels in supreme aversion and contempt; " not only," he says, "do they not shave the head, but call each other brother and sister, not distingnishing the generations." I remarked that it must be difficult to distin-

MAKDABIN YXSTTORS.— CHABACTEB OF THE RIVEB BANKS. 533

guish between rebels from choice and those who are under com-pulsion. Ho said that the length of the hair was a veiy fair cri-terion« The imperialists know how long a place had been in rebel occupation, and those people whose hair did not correspond in length to the period of time were generally regarded as old rebels. As we passed the end of the long island where the Ta-toong branch enters the nuun stream, we observed two official boats, each decorated with four gaudy flags, and propelled by twelve rowers, standing with their faces to the prow, making toward us. We accordingly eased our speed, and discovered them to be two fiflh-grade mandarins (crystal buttons), who came on board. They announced themselves as emissaries of Wang and Le, com-manding the imperial troops and fleet at Ta-toong, and who were desirous now of presenting their compliments to the great foreign cfaief^ and of making an ofifer of their services. We gave them some sherry, which they swallowed with very wry fiices. They had evidently never seen a European, much less a four hundred horse-power steam-frigate before, and could scarcely deliver them-selves of their message, so rapt were they in contemplation of surrounding objects. The pilot at once commenced expatiating to them on the wonders of the barbarian ship, remarking that he had attained the -age of thirty -one, and was only now beginning to have his eyes opened.

Near Ta-toong begins the Meikan Lake, or rather Lagoon, sep-arated from the river by a narrow strip of land, and extending parallel to it for about thirty miles. At Wang-chea-tan, an im-perial port, which we passed on the north bank, we observed a creek filled with small junks, and shortly afler encountered a large fleet of them. Those whom we hailed told us their cargo consist-ed of paper. They had emerged from some creek in imperialist occupation on the south store, and were now on their way up a small tributary into districts not infested by rebels. They were tbe first trading junks we had seen since entering the river, and the white sails dotted over the broad stream imparted to it an un-ofiiial air of animation.

The north bank of the river is more uniformly flat than the south. The range is generally more distant The intervening ooontry seems thickly, but by no means densely populated: the people collect into small hamlets, each with its clump of wUlow other trees.

584 AN IMPERIALIST FL^ST.

Before reaching Che-chow the stream again dividedi we follow-ing, as usual, the northern branch, while Lord Amherst's part}-took that called Ma Show-ja, leading past Che-chow, which im-portant city was visible in the distance, a handsome seyen-stoiied pagoda indicating its position from a£ur.

The town itself lies among hills ; it is a district dtj, and one of the strongly-fortified positions of the insurgents, under the command of Wei-che-Suen, one of their high officers.

The view from our airy perch in the cross-trees this afiemoon was singularly beautiful. We had exchanged the southern range, which usually skirted the river, for the northern, which now ap-proached it abruptly. In this direction the hills rose in undulat-ing masses, overtopping each other, till a bold, irregular outline of soft dark blue closed the prospect Small lakes glittered like gems in the hollows ; and over the bright foliage of the woods in which they were embosomed the setting sun shed a yet brighter glow — ^farms, and hamlets, and green fields gave a domestic char-acter to the scenery — ^and, as we gazed over it, we found it diffi-cult to believe that a countiy which nature had clothed in SQch warm and cheerfiil colors, and invested with so many attractions, should be the theatre which men had chosen for the display of all the worst passions of which human nature is capable. Yet so it proved, and the very accident of war contributed another and most picturesque feature to the scene.

A large imperial fleet was assembled at the mouth of a river, which we could discern winding among the hills, occasionally ex-panding into a lake, then twisting away like a silver thread.

This fleet was composed of fifty handsome war-junka, filled with soldiers in bright uniforms, and gay with flaunting flags: fluttering above one alone, I counted no fewer than twenty-one flags, all of different colors and devices. Some of the junks weit of more than usually quaint construction, elaborately ornamented carrying six and eight brass guns on a side, and propelled br sweeps. As it was now sundown, we anchored amid this g»T throng: when we had furnished the charming landscape with this brilliant and novel foreground, the scene altogether was so fimcifiil and unreal, that, when the curtain of night shrouded it fix>m our view, we might have imagined that the play was over, and that it only now remained to scramble out of the theatre, call a hansom, and go home to bed.

A VISIT TO THE COBfMODORE. 685

The abfienoe of beef reminded us of the stem realities of our idtuattoD. Messrs. Wade and Lay, therefore, went on board the one from which the greatest number of pennons were flying, and which might not unnaturally be supposed to be the " flag junk," in search of an admiral. They found only a commodore : Ad-miral Yang, it i4>peared, who, we understand, was at Ta-toong, had gone on to Nankin to superintend operations against the rebels. The commodore promised beef before daylight without GuL We had no doubt of its existence, as we had observed large herds of cattle at pasture on the north bank. It appeared that the fleet was firom the province of Hoopeh ; that the river at the mouth of which we were now anchored was called the Tsung-yang-ho, and that the town of Tsung-yang was situated among the hills five miles distant

We thus terminated a long and interesting day. The distance made was satisfactory, the water had been deep, some of the reaches magnificent, and the scenery, on the whole, beyond our expectations.

26ifu The beef never made its appearance after all : the early morning hours were too valuable to waste in waiting for it, so we were once more en route a little after daylight I counted alto-gether anchored on both sides of the river, a little above Tsung-yang, two hundred and fifty war-junks, flying defiant flags, and well manned.

We soon pass the Tai-tse-kee rock, rising out of the centre of the river but a very few feet above its waters, upon which, never-theless, are still visible the ruined walls of an old temple. A few hundred yards beyond it is the 48-chang, or 180-yards' passage. The river is here barred more than half across its width by rooks which rise out of it like stepping-stones. It is called the Lan-kan-ke, or '* Bar-river-hen," and derives its name from the follow-ing legend, as graphically narrated to us by our communicative pilot:

*^ In former days the scenery at this place was very beautiful and romantic, gigantic rocks being strewn over the surface of the oonntry. One day a bonze saw in a dream a quarrel arise between the beneficent spirits of the air and those who resided in the rocks. The presiding spirit of these was a rock in the form of a hen ; and the result of the quarrel was, that, to give vent to their spleen, the fock-spirits determined to block up the passage of the river. In

586 APPROACH TO NGAN-KING.

pursuance of this ill-natured design, off started the hen-rock, fol-lowed by all the rocks in her train, when the priest awoke, and perceiving what was occurring, with infinite presence of mind commenced crowing like a cock. This so &scinated the leading hen-rock that her progress was arrested in mid-channel, on which the goddess Kwan-yin was invoked ; then the people subscrihed together, and while the hen-rock was thus enthralled by the well-sustained crowing of the priest, they succeeded in cutting her head off: this effectually checked the progress of herself and attendant rocks, and there they remain to this day."

To avoid this dangerous pass, a cutting has been made on the southern bank through a comer called No-yang-ho. We, how-ever, found deep water and a safe channel close under the oppo-site shore. Before reaching Kgan-king the river divides, leaving numerous broad islands, which are flat and extensively cultivated, and well supplied with cattle. We observed green grass spread over the young crops to protect them &om the firost As we heard occasional heavy firing going on ahead, I went up to the croee-trees, and could perceive &om them the rebel and imperialist troops skirmishing in the distance. Columns of black smoke ris-ing in various directions proved to us that the work of destmc^ tion was progressing, and that houses and villages were being r^ duced to ashes far and wide. Presently we open Ngan-king, the capital city of Ngan-hwui, with its handsome eight-storied pagoda rising out of a substantially-built isolated stone fort, and masavo walls skirting the river, giving the city quite an imposing ap-pearance.

Biding along the shore, and keeping up with us as We steameil against the strong current, was an imperialist officer, apparently of high rank — for he rode a handsome white horse, decorated with gay trappings, and was accompanied by ten or twelve horse-men, well armed and appointed. It seemed that the goveroment troops had received notice of our approach, and had determined to take advantage of it, in order to make a grand attack upon Ngan-king, the advanced rebel position up the river, and strongly garrisoned by them. The mounted mandarin was evidently a general making a reconnoissance, for he did not venture within gunshot of the fort, but galloped back, seemingly well satined with his achievement

The Lee is leading the way, sounding for a channel ; we are fol-

WE ENGAGE THE FORTS.— THEY ASE ATTACKED IN REAR. 587

lowing cautioasly, when puff spurts a little cloud of white smoke from one of the embrasures, and a shot comes singing along over the water, but the elevation is deficient, and it falls into it within twenty yards of its mark. However, the direction was good, and this style of reception demands an immediate rejoinder. It is evident that the news of the Nankin episode has not yet reached Ngan-king ; indeed, we knew that it was impossible that it could have done so ; and as we anticipated a farther act of folly at thi^ end of the rebel position, our decks were cleared for action, and the men stood ready at their guns. The smoke of the first shot had not cleared away from the muzzle of the gun before the well* known flag which heads the list of British signals was flying from our mas^head, and the Furious, Cruiser, Dove, and Lee had o{)en* ed in full chorus. The bravo garrison Just stuck to their gun^ long enough to fire three times more, and then from my look*out I could see them running like rats out of the fort into the open country in rear of it Here, however, they found themselves in a dilemma; for the imperialists had descended from the heighti* behind, and, plucking up courage, were now advancing in light skirmishing order over the open plain, with the evident intention of attacking the fort in rear. They scarcely calculated upon find-ing the whole garrison out upon the plain to meet them. We could see the rebels hastily running together, and forming \mder hedgerows, and the imperialists, afraid to advance, waving banners and firing at them at incredible distances with gingalls.

At this time the general effect was in the highest degree excit-ing and picturesque. The hurrying of bodies of men to and fro over the fields — the waving of flags and firing of gingalls — the thunder of our own heavy guns — ^the groups of country people hastening across the drawbridge into the city for refuge, stagger-ing under heavy loads, and driving cattle before them — the smoke of their burning homes rising up to the cloudless sky — all com-bined to form a scene to gaze upon which, as it lay mapped out beneath, must have stirred the heart and sent the blood tingling through the veins of the most unimpassioned nature.

It is so seldom that we experience emotions which unite in themselves at one and the same moment the highest amount of sBSthetic and animal excitement When Madame de Staol said, '* Pour bien gouter la nature il faut ou Tamour, ou la religion,*' she had not tried the effect of ** la guerre." Our fire only lasted

538 TACTICS OF THE IMPERIALISTS.

for ten minutes ; we did not care to de&ce the omamented exte-rior of the pagoda, or expend our moorsom shells upon empty bat-teries. Moreover, as the imperialists had not the pluck to run into the deserted fort when we had cleared it for them, they deserred to lose it ; so we ceased firing, and steamed gently under the citj walls, and before we had passed them saw the fort reoccupied by the original tenants.

Some of Lord Amherst's party visited this pagoda^ and describe it as being in good repair, with a handsome marble obelisk in the basement story containing the heart of a celebrated warrior. As a good many of our shot struck the pagoda, the obelisk may have suffered, if the iconoclastic propensities of the rebels have not al-ready led them to regard this monument in the light of a sacred emblem. It was fortunate for us that the effect which our fire, short as it was, had created, prevented the rebels fix>m fixing at us from the dty walls ; for the deep channel led us within fifty or sixty yards of them, and we seemed to look intb the muzzles of the guns as we passed before them ; but the batteries here, too, were partially deserted, and I could look down upon bare plaoeB in the city, where groups were collected, half uncertain as to our intentions; and here and there soldiers ran crouching along the walls, not caring to be seen by us.

/ Just as we reached the last angle, and were congratulating our-selves upon our good luck, two guns were fired upon us in nf^id succession, and at rather close quarters. This was a piece of ab> surd impertinence, which involved another ten minutes' bombard-ment as a punishment It came upon them too hot and strong to admit even of a third shot The battery was speedily silenced, and, after trying our range at some of the most imposing-lookiDg public buildings in the centre of the town, and bursting a shell or two in the streets by way of a warning, we left Ngan-king behind us, and with it got clear of the last strong-hold of our not very agreeable friends the rebels. On this side of the city, as on the other, GOimtry people were running in before the advancing im-perialists. These latter are concentrating on this city and on Nan-kin all their energies, as they are on the extreme right and left of the rebel position, and provincial cities. Though finely situated, and surrounded by a well-built wall, the city is not so extenavir or populous in appearance as most towns of its class. I observed, nevertheless, several handsome substantial houses and yamun&

THEIB TBEATBfEMT OF THE PEASAlTrRY. 589

The flubarbe had all been leveled, and presented a lamentable ap-peannce of desolation* Mr. Ellis, who explored the city in 1816, ^js the shops were not so good as at Woohoo, and Uie streets were nnosoiJly narrow. The best shops were those for the sale of horn lanterns and poroelain. ^^ There would," he remarks, ** hare been little difficulty in laying out a laiige sum in cariosities of aU kinds, such as necklaces, old china, agate cups, vases, oma-menti of corundum and other stones, curious specimens of carved work in wood and metal."

Not long after leaving Ngan-king we passed another imperial deet of upward of two hundred junks at anchor. We also ob-:tf rved the country people flitting, and upon asking the pilot the reason of this, he said that doubtless the noise of our bombard-ment had led them to suppose that the city would be captured, and a horde of rebels be lei loose upon the country to rob and plunder.

It must not be inferred finom this that the insurgents are the only people addicted to these vices. I have already described the country people as flying into Ngan*king before the imperial-ist troops. The unhappy peasantry are indeed the victims of the lawless propensities of both sides. Indifierent to either, and de-siring only peace and quiet, they are pillaged first by one and then the other ; and in the case of cities, the imperialists, on driv-ing out the rebels, generally complete the work which these latter have left half finished.

We were now cheered by the sight of occasional trading-junks, :ind passed several collected at the villages of Ilong-tse-kee and Wang-tse-kee, on the south side. At the latter point, red clay bluf&, at the base of which large boulders of rock are strewn, ap-proach the river.

From the cross-trees we saw a vast expanse of water at some distance from the river, on the north bank. This lagoon extends from Ngan-king for a distance of upward of thirty miles parallel with the river, varying in breadth firom one to five or six miles. It is known under various names. Behind it high ranges of mountains are visible. In parts the country was park-like, the woods being dotted over it in thick clumps. On the south bank the hills are lower, and wooded, concealing small lakes in their re-ixs&es. Altogether, it seemed as though Uie combination of moor rind loch, wood, marsh, and cultivated ground, should afford abun-dant and varied sport

540 TOONG-LEW.

The city of Toong-lew is charmingly situated on the south hank. The houses are overtopped by two pagodas. One of eight stones stands close to the river; the other is built on an eminence some distance inland. The town is of no great extent, and is sunoiind-ed by a wall which dips and rises over the undulating groand, and finally descends to the water of a lake which half enciities the town, and is fringed with trees. As we looked into it from aloft we saw acres of charred ruins, the traces of rebel occupation : they, however, merely contented themselves with burning a great part of the city, and then evacuated it after holding it for a very short time. A plain half a mile broad separates it from the ri?er. This was soon thickly dotted with human beings, as the people observed us anchor before their city, and came running to the shore to gaze at us. We procilred firom them some fowls asd other minor additions to our stock. Our day's run had exceeded fifty miles, so that we were well pleased with our progress. Seme of the reaches along which we had passed, canying plenty of wa* ter, were ten miles in length, and between one and two in breadth, without a bend. We are daily more impressed with the capabil-ities of this mighty stream.

A FORAGING EZPEDITION.-OUB PUUOT BOUAKCES. 541

CHAPTER 37.

CHAPTER XXXVn.

A ranging Ezpedltkm. — Onr PUol roouuices. — Omidear of die Soenerx.— 'Tbe "Little Orphan Rock.'*'A windy Localitj.— Entnnoa to the Pojug Leke.^ L^SCfnd of the *' Orphan Rocks.** — Floods of the Tang-tse. — ^Bfethod of aocoonting for them. — ^Roral Statistics. — Appearance of the Women.— Geographical Features of the Coantry --The Valley of the Tang-tse.— Kew-kiang.— A Survey of its Re-•oQioes. — Villages on the Banks. — Hagnifloenl Scenery. — Depredations of the Nee-feL— We land at Hwang-shib-kang.— Its oonmeicial Activity.— White Tor-toise bland.— Enter the Province of Hoopeh.— The Fhilosopher LaonU*.— The *' White Tiger Mills.'*— An unsatisfactory Dialogue.— Approach Hankow.

October 27. Weighed early from Toong-lew. The mountains on the southern bank now increase in height, but we had hardly begun to enjoy the scenery when we went aground on a sand-bank. While they were trying to get the ship off we landed on a foraging expedition, and succeeded in procuring four bullocks. The country was flat, and the soil light and sandy. Small farms were dotted about ; and carts drawn by buffaloes, ridden instead of driven, creaked across it

The country people told us that not very long since the reb-('Is had overrun their district, and they had been obliged to fly. They were all armed, and many bore on their breasts the inscrip-tion " Valiant," signifying that they were enrolled in the militia. Some of the young men had been kidnapped by the rebels, and one of them, who had escaped from their clutches, was pointed out to us.

We took our pilot ashore with us, which alarmed him greatly,

as he supposed that we were going to inflict some description of

•"umniary punishment upon him for running us aground* When,

however, he discovered that we only required him to bargain for

bullocks, he recovered his composure, and was soon imparting,

with much animated action, to a group of admiring countrymen,

a very highly-embellished narrative of our late action at Ngan*

king. With our heroic performances on that occasion he was

*\irefu] to identify himself "You should have seen how we

^iwe it to them," he said ; " how our shot told, and how big our

-hot ipras ; why, it would have taken three such blessed old fools

542 GRANDEUR OF THE SCENERT.

as jovL to lift one of them." This was said to a respectable mid-dle-aged man, who was sucking a pipe and staring incredulooslj at the nairator. It turned the laugh in his &yor.

As some of our party had discovered a lake a short distance in-land, we started off to explore it We found it covered with wa-ter-fowl. Pelicans, wild swans, geese, ducks, besides cranes, her-ons, and a number of feathered bipeds unknown to me, cackled fluttered, and stalked about^ making a great racket Unfortu-nately, we were a large and somewhat noisy party, and they were very shy. A rash shot sent them all wheeling into the air with loud cries, and they continued to circle and scream overhead, to see whether we would go away ; and, finding us stationary, tailed off in long strings to some more secure retreat

I prosecuted my explorations with two companions, and, croas-ing a low ridge, came upon a &rm which rejoiced in the descrip-tive name of Hwa-yuen-chin, or " The Flower-garden Station.'^ It was situated on the margin of a great lagoon, about two mikF broad, and of unknown length, called by the natives Ta-hoo^ or ^' The Lake" par eaxeUence. Here I shot a brace of fine ducks ; one of them, however, was only wounded, and gave us a long chase in a punt, which we opportunely found and appropriated The water was nowhere more than six or eight fiset in depth.

We were told that the light sandy soil retained the heat of ^ sun in summer, making it almost impossible for the people to work in their fields during the heat of the day. Even now, late in November, the midday sun was formidable, though the ni^tp and mornings were absolutely cold. The ship got off about 4 P. M., but remained at anchor for the night

28th. Weighed early. The morning was mild at sunrise, bat shortly after a regular northeast gale set in, bitterly cold, and venr strong. The scenery upon the south shore assumed a chancier of grandeur, surpassing any thing we had hitherto seen. The mountains came boldly down to the water's edge, projecting into the river in rocky promontories or precipitous blu£b. The most striking of these is the Ma-toong-shan, which, however, as we fid-loyed a northern channel, we only saw at a distance. The gale now blew furiously, obscuring the atmosphere with clouds of dust This haziness, and the general blackness of the weather. invested our approach to the goige of Seaou-koo-shan with qnit^* an imposing effect The Cruiser, with top-gallant-masts strack .

TBB "LITTLE OBPHAN BOCK." 543

lay over to the blast; the two little gnn-boata, scaroelj visible ahead, seemed pluDging into the depths of some infernal region, the gigantic portals of which loomed indistinctly through the misL Presentl;' we found ourselves forcing our way between two lofty masses of rock, in a channel scarce a quarter of a milt-in width, and fifteen or sixteen fathoms deep.

The Seaoa-koo-shan, or "LitUe Orphan Bock," rises precipi-tously out of the midst of the waves, which were dashing againm

it, to a height of near three hundred feet The mountain opposite. called Chin-tBe-shan, or the " Mirror Mountain," rises in a sheer mass from the river margin, and is crowned by walls numing along the brink of precipicos, and towen perched on dizzy pin-Daclefl of rock. Part of this fortificatioQ is the work of the rebels A Buddhist temple has been built, or rather let into the face of the Orphan Bock, like a piece of enamel, about midway between the base and the summit It is approached by steps hewn out of the rock, and presents a most striking and picturesque aspect Mr. EUi^ who visited this temple, says that a paper was brought to him by the priests stating ^t the temple had been endowed by the emperor's mother. Janks usually stop here to make t^er-iogs to propitiate the local deity. We obwrvcd an inscription

544 A WINDY LOCALITT.

upon a smooth part of the rock, conspicuously placed, and which Mr. Wade imagined to be a quotation. It was as follows :

'* Green hill hy the mer, From the extremity of its bend, one beholds thee.**

This pass marks the boundary between the provinces of Ngan-hwui and Eiang-si.

We now enter this latter province, described in the Chinese Repository as one spacious valley, comprising an area of 72,176 square miles, or about equal to the State of Virginia, with a popa-lation of more than twenty-three million of souls. The first place on it at which we arrive is Pang-tse, picturesquely situated among the hills. The few buildings that remain of a town, never very extensive, are surrounded by a wall, which incloses as well a vast area of barren hill and valley. The object of those who planned the wall seems to have been to carry it to the top of the highest hills, and over ridges so steep that they were of themselves a de-fense.

As the wind increased almost to a hurricane this afternoon, we came to an anchor at 2 P.M. at a spot where a very disagreeable bar of sand rendered caution necessary. We were led to believe that gales such as the one we were now experiencing were ccxn* mon in this locality, from the numerous sand dunes which we ob-served upon the southern bank, and which presented a remarkable contrast to the green knolls and wooded mountains which usuaDj rose from it.

29(h. The thermometer early this morning fell for the first time to two degrees below fireezing. It was found necessary to buoy the channel ahead, and the wind having moderated, we weighed, and carried three &thoms of water across the bar. The gale of yesterday seems to have cleared the air, for the day h beautiful, and enables us to appreciate the magnificent scenety which opens upon us as we approach the entry to the Poyaog .Lake. The channel connecting this extensive sheet of water with the great river is about three miles long and one brosd. On its eastern shore, at the point of junction, Hoo^kow, the " Citj of the Lake's Mouth," is perched upon the precipitous rock called Tsa-chee, or the ''Jagged Head," opposite to which the majestk Lew-shan, or '' Mule" Mountain, rears its imposing crest to a height of 6000 feet. Rising out of the waters of the lake in soli-tary grandeur, we could discern in the distance the Takoo^shao,

EHTBANCB TO THE FOTANO LAKE.— LEGEND. 545

- — — **::

TJi.J8i.il

EMi»w to Um ftijnat taka.

or Great Orplian Bock. These romaotic aceoes, and the aasoda-tioDS oosDected with them, have rendered thpin the £requeot sub-jects of poetic celebratioa among the people.

Our pilot, who is a great legend-monger, gave us the follow-ing account of the origin of the Takoo-ahan : A fisherman once dropped his anchor under Seaou-koo-shan, or the Little Orphan RocI^ and oould not find it again, so he appUed to a priest to help him. The priest gave him an invocation, which he was to place upon his forehead, and then dive for his anchor. The spell suc-ceeded to a miracle ; not only did he discover bis loat anchor, but a charming river-njmph as well, who had choacD it for bcr couch. At first he stood entranced at so fair a visioo ; then, regaining bis presence of mind, he determined on preserving a memento of it, and gentlj abstracting a tiny shoe from the &scinating crashed f<x>t of this Chinese Naiad, be ascended to the sur&ce with bis anchor. But the lady, probably roused by finding herself dis-possessed of bcr iron bedstead, discovered the loss of her shoe, and instantly started in pursuit Notwithstanding that a stem chase is usually a long chase, the fisherman was rapidly losing frroand, when he bethought himaelf of altering the position of the !vu)a, ao as to mislead his iair pursuer as to the direction he was taking, the stem and stem of his junk being alike. This derioe, Mh

516 FLOODS OF THE TANG-TSE.

however, though it originated an entiiel j new rig upon the riyer. failed, and he was nltimatelj so hard pressed that he was obliged to throw the shoe oyerboard at the month of the Pojang Lake: and on the spot arose the solitaiy rock called Takoo^shan, oi sometimes Sheae-koo-shan, or the Shoe HiU, ever after.

The navigation at this point was in the highest degree intri-cate: the mass of water ponring out of the lake, and meeting tli( swift current of the river, formed whirlpools and eddies, known in China as ^'chow-choV water, and, what we dreaded more, shoaL^ and bars in eveiy direction.

We had not advanced ten miles from onr last nighf s anchorage before we found ourselves hard and £ist upon one of these pro-voking impediments. Not that delajrs of this character were tc> be altogether r^retted, as thej gave us opportunities of landing and exploring the country. The ship had not been on shore tec minutes before we followed its example, and were straggling &r and wide, some of us in search of game, others of information, and others, again, of bullocks and fowls.

We had landed on the north bank, and the country stretched away, in one unbroken level, to a range of hills just visible in the distance. Herds of buffaloes were grazing upon the pastnre& numbers of them bestridden by urchins, who, seated upon the backs of these ungainly animals, tended the herd, presenting, a5 they did so, a most singular appearance. A levee extended along the river-bank to keep its waters from overflowing the countiy in rear, and upon it the peasantry had built an almost oontinuoos row of mean cottages, the roofs and walls of which were of reeds. Here and there a stone building had been erected as a rebel post or as a house of entertainment by some enterprising speculator. A dread of floods operated as the chief inducement to putting up tenements of so unsubstantial a character, many of the ownos having farms on the hills, to which they repaired during the rains. They asserted that the river occasionally rose a hundred feet We were contented to believe, however, our own observa-tion, and the marks we perceived convinced us that fifty feet above its then level was a low estimate for its summer rise. Here the current had evidently rushed violently over the face of the country, devastating an immense area of cultivated or pasture land by depositing upon it great quantities of sand.

It would appear that ultimately the waters only partially le-

METHOD OF ACCOUNTING POR THEll— INN. 647

(^e, leaving vast tracts ooyered with those lagoons and marshes which we continued to observe on both banks of the river. Dur-ing the dry season a considerable subsidence takes place, and the channels by which their surplus waters were discharged into the river dry up. The consequence is, that, after partial rains, all those mountain torrents which would, under other circumstances, go to swell the waters of the parent stream, get absorbed in the lakes at the base of the hills, and, unless the rain is of sufficient duration to overflow them, the river receives no additional supply. Mean-time the great evaporation which must take place from so large a surface of water renders the rise of the lakes comparatively slow. This would appear the only way of accounting for the fact that, although partial rises do occur in the river, they are not so com-mon as the humidity of the climate would lead one to anticipate. In all probability, it will he found, however, that these rises occur more frequently below the Poyang Lake than above it This may be presumed from the fact that the waters which supply the Poyang, rising in lower latitudes, are not subject to those frosts, and are more readily thawed than the upper tributaries of the river, and that, consequently, the volume of water discharged from the lake varies in amount to a much greater extent than that which flows down to meet it

But the violence of the river was not more dreaded by the un-happy peasantry than that of the rebels: when they were not flooded out by the one, they were burnt out by the other. But a few months had elapsed since the " posts" had scoured this dis-trict, and had burnt all the houses for fuel. As one of the peas-antry pathetically remarked when he told us of it — '* Ah ! those were sad times I"

We entered a small brick cottage, on the door-post of which the owner had signified that it was a house of entertainment for travelers, and found that it was divided into two small rooms and one large one. In the latter were straw beds on the ground, in which eight or ton travelers might have been closely packed. Tlie owner informed us that he possessed three acres of land, pro-<lucing various descriptions of pulse and grain, which he showed iiiS and for which he paid government a ground-rent of 35. 6iL lie exported his produce to the neighboring districts.

Close to the inn was a village school, in which there were only ♦•jght pupils. The schoolmaster told us that he got eight strings

548 APPEABANCB OF THE WOBIEN.— PA-LE-KIAKG.

of cash, or about nine shillings a year, per pupil, but that many of the country people were too poor to avail themselves of the privilege, and sent their children to tend cattle instead.

Passing another cottage, we detected the fumes of opium, and on entering found two men smoking tobacco ; but a light gleam-ing through a crevice from an inner compartment betrayed the secret occupation of the inmate, and on looking in, we found him stretched comfortably on his side, frizzling the opium dirough a flame into his pipe in the most approved manner. So absorbed was he in the enjoyment of '^ kief" that he scarcely condescended to notice us, though we must have presented a very unexpected and startling apparition. His comrades asked us what we had to sell, evidently inferring, from the interest we displayed in the consumption of the *' drug," that we had some of it to dispose o£

We did not see many women ; those who did lavor us with a sight of their countenances might certainly have spared us that treat. I think I never saw the fair sex under a less attractive exterior.

It was at this point that Lord Amherst's mission left the Gieat Eiver, taking the route to Canton by way of the Poyang Lake, which gave rise to the following parting reflection, to be found in Mr. Ellis's Journal: " In vain will the patriot look for kindred feelings — ^in vain will the man of honor look for a friend, and still more in vain would amiable woman look for a companion on the banks of the Yang-tse-kiang." So fSu- as our experience went, this latter sentiment was as true of ^' amiable" man.

The village we had been exploring was called Pa-le-kiang, or the Eight-le-river, and is the spot from which travelers journeying south usually cross the Ta-kiang. PSre Hue, who traveled over-land from Woochang, struck it at this pointy and crossed to Hoo-kow.

In a geographical point of view, the section of the river whidi traverses this corner of Kiang-si is perhaps the moat interesting. We had now ascended the Ta-kiang for a distance of four hund-red and flfty miles, and had only just reached its first real afflu-ent; for, with the exception of the Tsung-yang River, all those tributaries marked as such in the map turned out to be ditches almost dry in the winter time. But here the great river meets a feeder worthy of it In a single deep rolling tide the Poyang Lake discharges into it the whole drainage of the vast province

THE VALLET OF THE TANG-TSE 549

of Kiang-ai. Surrounded on all sides by loflj ranges, the north-ern barrier of this lake must at some former period have proved the feeblest, and given egress to the accumulated waters through this gorge.

As though to meet this important accession, the Ta-kiang takes that southern bend which forms one of the most marked features of its course. In forming this curve it has been compelled to force its passage through the Ma-tze-shan, or ** Horse's Spine" range, which forms part of the western boundary of Kiang-si, di-viding that province from Hoopeh. These mountains cross the river at Woo-sueh, and under another name trend away to the northeast, marking the frontier of the province in that direction, and leaving a small strip of it inclosed between them and the northern bank of the Ta-kiang. After having thus fulfilled its mission by dipping into Kiang-si and carrying off the surplus waters of the Poyang, the great river leaves the province by the romantic pass of the Seaou-koo-shan, or " Orphan Bock,'' already described.

The mountain system of this part of China may be better un* derstood by supposing that, with those ranges, along the base of which the river forms its southern curve, a northern range is con-nected, fonning, as it were, a loop upon it, and opposing barriers which the river has burst to obtain ingress and egress. At the same time, it is to be borne in mind that the mountains compos* ing this loop are not the only mountains to the north of the river. As repeatedly observed, high ranges were constantly visible in that direction, though they rarely approached the river. In fact, throughout the whole length of our voyage, the great valley of the Yang-tse, or Ta-kiang, has maintained the same general char* acter, which may be described in a few words. Its breadth varied exceedingly, and may have ranged from ten to fifty miles. The river invariably hugged the southern range, which seldom reach-ed more than four or five miles from its banks, leaving a strip of alluvial plain, while numerous lakes washed the base of the hills or lay embosomed among them. To the north, plain and lake fiometimes extended far as the ey^ could reach ; but generally mountains, more or less distant, closed the prospect

SOiL We found, to our disgust, that we had followed the wrong passage ; we were therefore obliged to retrace our steps over the bar, and, rounding the island opposite the entrance to the lake.

550 KEW-KIANG.— A SUBVEY OF ITS RESOURCES.

look for a channel in that direction. This we were at last fortu-nate enough to discover, but not without crossing another veij difficult bar. At 2 o'clock P.M. we were opposite Kew-kiang. As we had letters to the authorities of this important '^ foo" city, the first one of its class belonging to the imperialists we had reached since leaving Chin-kiang-foo, we remained here for the remainder of the day, and went on shore to investigate its present condition. We found it to the last degree deplorable. A single dilapidated street^ composed onlj of a few mean shops, was all that existed of this once-thriving and populous city ; the remain-der of the vast area, comprised within walls five or six miles in circumference, contained nothing but ruins, weeds, and kitchen-gardens. The inhabitants declare that this is partly owing to the five years' occupation of the town by the rebels, and partly to the destructive propensities of the imperialist troops, who retook it from them only last April, or seven months ago. Its present garrison consisted of four thousand men, while its population scarce amounted to as many hundreds. They seemed, all of them, following in our train, their £aces expressive of intense astonish-menty mingled with some alarm.

In the centre of the city was an eminence covered with ruins, which commanded an extensive and remarkable view. Beneath us lay a dreary waste of brickbats; behind us rose the magnifi-cent peaks of the p^'ecipitous Lew-shan ; before us a chain of lakes extended into the dim distance, imtil they were merged in the fiery haze of the setting sun; while, sweeping tmder the walls, the mighty Ta-kiang poured its yellow volume seawanL The only bright object in Kew-kiang was a Confucian temple, which had just been built by the emperor; it contained a tablet inscribed by a celebrated minister of state to the memoiy of his friend, a Tartar general, who had fallen at the capture of the city.

In the suburb there was a more substantial street and better shops : one of them was devoted to the sale of foreign &brics ; in it I observed Manchester calicoes and a species of red serge which was imported from Bussia. We visited an apothecary's shop, and saw him prescribe crushed spiders, ginseng, and sundry roots and reptiles, to anxious patients ; also a baker's establishment, where we found that some of the flour used came all the way fiom the province of Shantung. We nibbled sweetmeats at a grocer's, in-spected cottons at a haberdasher's, and searched in vain for old

VILLAGES ON TUB BAKKa 551

ohina in a crockery-shop. Kew-kiang boasts two pagodas — one outside and one inside the city : the latter partially destroyed.

December 1. In consequence of the difficulties of the navigation yesterday, the Lee was sent on this morning to explore the river ahead ; on her returning with a favorable report, we weighed, and proceeded prosperously for about twenty miles, when we were brought up suddenly by a bar, across which it was necessary to buoy a channel. Wo ultinuitely scraped over, with about three inches to spare under the keel. At this point the village of Loong-ping is situated on the north bank, and on the opposite side some red clay blu£& are a conspicuous feature.

Looking in a southerly direction, we could see from the cross-trees a large lake dotted with high wooded islands, upon which, in the distance, the white sails of numerous junks that were nav-igating it were visible,

To the north, an extensive lake, also covered with junks, stretched away to the base of a distant range. I here observed, for the first time, wood-rafts, each with a small population of it^ own, who lived in huts constructed upon them. The country was flat and well cultivated, maintaining a largo and apparently more thriving population than we had observed at any previous section of the river. A much-frequented road traversed the plain, along which numerous travelers journeyed in wheel-bar-rows, protecting themselves from the sun^s rays with bright-col-ored umbrellas.

A few miles farther we pass, on the northern bank, the flour-ishing market-town of Woo-sueh, the whole population of which t umed out to stare at us ; and on the south the pretty village of Ma-kow, charmingly situated in a wooded valley. The Ma-tze-shan, or Horse's Spine Mountains, now approach the river, rising abruptly bom its waters to a height of 1500 or 2000 feet We are delighted to observe that the northern chain seems to bar our {)rogress ahead, as through them we shall have to force our way to-morrow; and, to judge from the mountainous nature of the t*ountry, we may depend upon fine scenery. Meantime our voy-oprc of to-day has been invested with an interest peculiar to itsel£ Never before had these waters been explored by a foreigner, un-K*ti8 zxiayhap some stray Jesuit in di^uise, who has given us no ocooant of his wanderings, may have traversed them in the course of his missionary labors. We could now, therefore, look forward

552 MAGKIFICEirr SCENEBY.^THE NEE-FEL

to indulging for some days in that rare but delightful excitement of gazing for the first time upon scenes heretofore nnvisited.

2(2. We were on deck earlier than usual this morning, detenn-ined not to miss any of thd imknown beauties of the river. 'Shortly after weighing, we entered the gorge £rom which the riv-er emerges into the province of Kiang-si Mountains overhaog it on both sides, and as it winds between them it assumes all the appearance of a highland lock The valleys are wooded with dark-green firs ; the gray rocks are crowned with purple heather, and wild crags force themselves into bold and picturesque relief . The most striking spot is at the precipitous bluff of Pwan-pien-shan, opposite to which the surface of the limestone diff is quarried out, and on a projecting point a temple is left standing. With almost every revolution of the paddle-wheels a new point of view opened upon us, displaying unexpected attractions of peak and pinnacle in the foreground, and the abrupt outlines of lofty ranges in the distance. To one of these, in consequence of a singular depression in its outline, we gave the name of ^e '^Der* il's Bite Bange."

Passing the towns of Sha- wootze and Tien-shia-chin, we reached at 11 A.M.the sub-prefectural city of Ke-chow, its walls crowning a bluff which overhangs the river. Bising from the midst of the stream is a circular stone fort We remained here a short time to receive a mandarin, who came on board to present to Lord El-gin the compliments of the Governor General of Hoo-Kwang into whose jurisdiction we had now entered The river was crowded wi^ small junks, all going in one direction, and fool-passengers thronged the roads along its margin. We leaned from our visitor, on asking him the cause of this commoticm, that the rebels were at Kwang-tse, a city lying thirty or forty miloB distant to the northeast, and mentioned by Hue as having been visited by him.

These were probably not the Tai-ping rebels, but some of the Ke^-fei, who had taken advantage of the insecure state of the country to commit depredations which were driving the countiy people from their homes. Some of the provincial authorities were now in the city, endeavoring to restore confidence ; to assist them, a large body of imperial cavalry, numbered at 10,000 by our in-formant, had just arrived, and were then encamped in the neigh-borhood. Ke-chow had been partially destroyed by the Tai-pingS|

HWAN6*8HIH.KAKO.*rrS COUMEBCIAL ACnvmr. 653

who held it off and on until thej were flnallj driTen*awaj about ajearago.

A little beyond the city we passed the scene of a bloody fight between the rebels and imperialists in 1854, of which oar pilot gave 08 a most animated description ; according to him, the fonner were beaten, forced into the liver, and upward of 20,000 drowned or otherwise destroyed*

In the afternoon we passed the precipitous bluff Taou-tae-fuh, rising in an unbroken wall to the height of 600 feet out of the water. Behind it, a magnificent mountain range displayed scenes of great grandeur and picturesque beauty. A Chin-chai, or man* darin of high degree, followed by a train of boats, passed us in the largest river-junk I have yet seen, handsomely decorated, and with the usual display of gongs, umbrellas, and banners. He was probably on his way " to restore confidence.'' We reached the important market-town of Hwang-shih-kang, or " Yellow Stone" — ^probably so called from the quarries in the neighborhood — ^in time to explore it before dark. A splendid river-wall of sand-stone, surmounted by a handsome balustrade, gave the place a most imposing appearance. The water was so deep that we were compelled to anchor close to the junks, which were made fiist to the shore. A dense crowd came pouring out of the gate, and down to the water's edge, as the huge triton took up its position among the minnows, and commenced blowing off steam in a man* ner calculated to confirm the impression that we had arrived di-rect from the infernal regions.

It was almost impossible to step on shore out of the boats, so cloeely had the people packed themselves into the river itself. On entering the town, we were surprised at the universal deanli* ncss of the streets, and the superiority of the shops, generally, over any we had yet discovered at other towns on the river. The numerous junks moored before it gave evidence of a high degree of oonmiercial activity : this general air of prosperity and opu* lenoe was the more striking, as it was quite unexpected, and con-trasted so strongly with all that had previously come within the range of our observation. The surrounding countiy produces great quantities of cotton ; as much as 800,000 taols worUi of this article, unmanufiMStured, is transported annually to Chang-sha, the capital of Hoonan. Indigo is also largely grown in the neighbor-hood ; and we inspected the process of rolling the newly-dyed cot-ton with gigantic stone rollers, worked partly by the feet and part-

\

\

564 WHITE TORTOISE ISLAND.— CITY OF HWANGUCHOW.

ly by machinery. The raw cotton, of which I got some spedmens, seemed short in the staple. Superior hemp is imported from Hing-kwoh, a town not many miles distant^ while coal is procured fix)m a mine only five miles off. Neither tea nor silk were culti-vated here, but a considerable trade is carried on in grain. I saw in the shops some gray Manchester calicoes and Dutch velveteens. The process of investigation in a Chinese city is never Yerj agree-able ; but here, although the crowd was respectM, it was so high-ly perfumed, and so pressing in its attentions, that we were glad to get down to our boats once more, and breathe fresh air.

The immunity which Hwang-shih-kang has enjoyed from rebel violence is probably due chiefly to the absence of any wall or for-tification, which could render it a valuable position in a militanr point of view.

8d In consequence of the intricacy of the navigation, our prog-ress to-day was slow. Lakes were visible on both sides, and pret-ty broken country to the south, with occasional blufiSs, and distant ranges. The river still averages upward of a mile in breadth. lu the afternoon we passed Woo-chang-hsien, a walled town with two seven-storied pagodas, a lake at the back, some fine ranges beyond, two very picturesque gates, and a great crowd staring at ns from the bank. The town itself seems in good preservation, probablj because the rebels evacuated it, and made Hwang-chow their mil-itary position. A rock rising out of the stream here is called Peh-kwei, or White Tortoise Island. The name is derived from a &ble, to the effect that a soldier was once pursued by his ene-mies to this island, and to escape them leaped into tha river, when one of the huge tortoises lying near the shore took him upon his spacious back and carried him safely to the opposite bank.

About two miles higher up is situated the district city of Hwang-chow. It boasts the finest pagoda on the river, which, in spite of rebel occupation, remains in a state of excellent preserva-tion. An imperialist army was encamped under the walls, and a fleet of war-junks moored to the shore. The appearance of this combined land and river force was most picturesque. The white tents and bright flags ; the horses picketed in groups, and the men clustering into masses in rude parade ; the gay junks, each widi its special device, formed a striking scene. Here is a gorgeous barge bearing on its flag, " The Leader of the Hoonan Braves f and here another, " The Commissary Greneral of the Flying Camps of Hoopeh."

PROVINCE OF HOOPEH. 555

The walls of Hwang-chow inclose the usoal howling waste. The citj was abandoned by the rebels about two jeare ago.

Wo ran our nose upon a sand-bank a few miles above Hwang* chow, and occupied the whole of the remainder of the day in fioiit-less efforts to find a channel.

iA. We spent almost the whole of to-day at anchor in one spot, the gun-boats channel-hunting. The difficulties in the navigation are now so numerous that we almost despair of forcing the old :}hip another hundred miles up the river.

It is, however, some satisfisustion to feel that we have reached Uoopeh, one of the central provinces of the empire. " This prov-ince," says the Chinese Ri*pository^ " enjoys so many advantages of t«.'n)peraturc, climate, fertile soil, navigable rivers, and beautiful lake and mountain scenery, that it is called the granary of the empire." Our own experience fully confirms the latter part of this description. Since entering the province, some lake or other had always been visible from the cross-trees.

The Liang-tze, which we saw yesterday, is connected with the Ax Lake by a conduit forming a communication across the bend of the Ta-ldang at this place. The population of Hoopeh is es-timated at 27,000,000 ; its area is double that of England with-out Wales. The signification of the term Hoopeh is ^^ North of the Lakes.'* P6re Hue describes it as being in many respects in-ferior to Sz-chuen. The soil is somewhat sterile, though covered with numbers of lagoons and marshes, from which the Chinese, in s]>ite of their patient industry, can extract but little utility; the villages, in consequence, present an appearance of misery and suf-f'^ring. The vegetable productions are bread-8tufl&, silk, cotton, t«*a, and timber; it possesses extensive mineral resources, and I >rr>daccs gold, silver, tin, iron, mica, copperas, crystal, marble, ar* j-illato, etc Its manufactures are bamboo paper, wax-doth, ciys-ml and other ornaments, which are famed throughout the empire. Hoopeh is also celebmted as the province which gave birth to I^outz*, a philosopher of scarcely less repute than Confucius. rjt' was bom fifty-four years before Confucius, and is believed to lave had white hair and eyebrows at his birth, and to have been -^irricil in the womb eighty years, whence he was called Laoutz\ >r *• The Old Boy," and afterward Lankiun, or "The Venerable 'rince.'* He was the founder of the sect of the Bationalists, or ^au-kia, and is the author of Tau-tih-king, or a " Memoir on Bea-jn and Tirtue," which is the text-book of his disciples.

X

556 "THE WHITE TIGER HILCS."

4

Late in the afternoon we discovered a narrow and intricate passage behind a low island covered with long grass. We scraped so close under the high river-bank that the groups of peasantrj, collected upon it to see us pass, might almost have jumped upon our decks. I landed with Wade on the idand in search of game, when he succeeded in bringing down a fine wild goose out of a flock which was sailing overhead.

6(h, We had only one serious difficulty to-day, and made good progress. The country did not seem so thickly inhabited ot well peopled as the district through which we had just passed: in parts, the northern bank was well wooded and level, with occa-sional lakes ; to the south it was more broken ; but there were no hills of any elevation. The " White Tiger Hills," which are the most remarkable in form, jut out into the river, but are not above 500 feet above it. In summer large tracts of country, now pastnie-land, must be under water. The weather is getting sensibly cold-er. It hailed last night, and this morning I observed specks of sleet

Though nearly five hundred miles from the sea, we saw por poises again to-day, called by the Chinese ^' Cheang-choo-tsze.^ They use the oil as silk dye. Junks and rafts are more nnIDe^ ous than formerly, and our terrific aspect creates invariably so great a sensation as almost to stupefy the crews. Not only most our appearance, but our ignorance, astonish them. We bawl oat for information about lakes, mountains, and cities, to llieni weE known, but of the names of which our pilot is as ignorant as our selves. He makes up for this, however, by the energy with whidi he shouts his queries upon all sorts of subjects to the passeis-br. Thus he begins :

" Hi, on the raft there — ^Ho, fether I" The only response is a vacant stare.

Pilot again, more energetically: "Hi I Ho! Ah I (JreatuDckT This more remote term of relationship elicits not only a stare, bat a prolonged " a-a-a-a," not unUke the bleating of an asthmatic sheep.

Pilot, getting slightly indignant, becomes even less affectionaie* and puts his question : " Much-honored relation, do you hear, what place is this ?"

Answer firom the much-honored relation : " Ah-ah-ah," in a dif-ferent cadence from before.

Pilot, angrily : " Venerable party, I ask you what place this is ?"

k.^

AM UNSATISFACTORY DIALOGUE. 557

Venerable party, roased at last, shoots, and points up the river. IIo says, '* It's all right ; go on."

Pilot, now thoroughly exasperated, suddenly substitutes abusive for polite epithets ; ho rolls tbese out with great volubility, work-ing up the last syllable to a high key, and dwelling upon it long, with great vigor and bitterness of expression, thus: ^^ Oh, you old addle-pated, thick-skulled, noodle-oodle oodle-o-o-OHM), I did not ask jou whether it was all right, but the name."

Answer : " Oh-ah-oh, the name of the town — the name of the town— oh-ah-oh, the name of the town you want to know ? The town s name '" "

Pilot: "And what is the name of the lake?" Answer : " There is no lake." Pilot : " I tell you there is a lake."

Answer: "A lake, you said; oh-ah-oh, is there a lake? no-oh-DCN there is no lake." And so on, till we steam ahead again in Jc>{>air. The river is the big river or the old river, and the mountain has no name, and never had one. Occasionally, when we are at anchor, some of these boats approach uh, to stare more clodely at our huge bulk; then the pilot becomes friendly and communicative. ''Come up," ho says, "and see a little of the world." We never can gather from these visitors any idea of our distance from Ilan-kow. The nearer we approach it, the greater the number of " le" invariably becomes, which are still to be trav-ersed*

Qdk. The Dove was sent on yesterday, to reach Han-kow if pos-hible. We hoped to do the same, but our departure has been de-layed by a dense fog. When this cleared off, we saw from the jn.».*>3- trees a vast arable plain, extending in a northerly direction :o a large lake, upon which we could distinguish through the haze he sails of distant junks. To the south the plain was intersected »y a low irregular range, apparently densely populated; an ex-irisivo lake also bounded the prospect in this direction.

The well-cultivated and well-peopled aspect of the country leads A to hope that we are approaching a largo town. Gradually the uuscs line the banks, and kitchen-gardens, neatly fenced, sopar-r4* them from each other. Then we see a dense mass of houses, i<I a hill crowned with a wall, and the masts of many junks; iionf^ them the white funnel of the Dove, and we know that the^ 'ul is reached at last, and that the toils and anxieties of a monthV ver navigation are crowned with success.

558 FIRST IMPBESSIONS OF HAK-KOW.

5 OF HAN-KOW.

CHAPTER 38.

CHAPTER XXXV ill.

2/y.

*-. '

First IiDpressions of Han-kow. — Its Resemblance to Nijni Novgorod. —Ov fint Landing. — ^An orderly Crowd. — ^Plan of Han-kow. — View of Wo-chang and Hin-yang. — Population of these Cities. — Manofacture of Bamboo Cables. — Price of Manchester Cottons. — Insect-wax. — ^The Mode of its Prodaction. — ^Recent Demo-lition of Han-kow. — Its mixed Population. — Mandarinic Diplomacy. — Cammer-cial Investigations. — ^Difficulty of obtaining Information. — ^A Dialpgoe.— Com-merce of Han-kow. — ^The Tea-producing Districts. — ^A Visit to Han-yang.— Stlt^ ments of P^re Hue.

The general appearance of the celebrated and far-famed mercan-tile emporium of Han-kow, as seen fix)m the cross-trees of the Fa-rious, was eminently disappointing. We had heard so much of the congeries of cities that are situated at the junction of the Hid and the Yang-tse — of their extent, population, and commerciid ac-tivity— we had longed so eagerly to reach them — had doubted so frequently whether we should ever thus be gratified — ^that we had formed grander expectations, and anticipated a nobler rewaid after all our anxieties and exertions. Still it was pleasant, afier having seen nothing but ruins and heaps of brickbats, as supply-ing the places of populous cities, once more to look upon teeming streets and an animated river, even though on a smaller scale than we had been led to suppose.

In the situation of Han-kow and the topographical features of the surrounding country I was strongly reminded of Nijni Nov-gorod. Han-kow occupies the angle formed by the Ham and Great Eiver, which meet at right angles. On the opposite or right bank of the Han is a precipitous range of hills, crowned with the fortifications of the now ruined city of Han-yang. These correspond to the Kremlin of Nijni, while Han-kow answeis to the fair. On the opposite side of the Yang-tse is the importaxit provincial city of Wo-chang, which has no equivalent on the banb of the Volga. The shape of Han-kow is an acute-angled triangle, the base of which, resting on the Yang-tse, is a mile long, while it extends for about two miles and a half along the banks of the Han, dwindling away almost to a point Being a purely com-mercial city, it is not surrounded by walls or any semblance of fortification.

OUR FIRST LANDING.^^'DONT BE AFRAID.** 559

The Han, which ia the first important tributary that the Yang-tse receives (ascending the river), varies in breadth from a hund-red to a hundred and fifty yards, and is a much less imposing stream than was to have been expected from its long course, and the amount of traflic which is carried on upon its waters. Nu-merous ferries supply the place of any bridge. For about half a mile from its point of junction with the parent stream, the Han is as densely crowded with junks as it is possible to pack them: very few, however, remain moored in the Yang-tse. This noble river is three quarters of a mile wide at this point; and imme-diately off the town we were anchored in thirteen fathoms of wa-ter, and this at a distance of nearly six hundred miles from the .^eo. Meantime, while we were engaged in making these obser-vations, the crowd became denser, the river more alive with boats: the air resounded with the voices of thousands of persons gazing eagerly at us, and expressing their wonder in confused and audi-ble murmurs. Presently boat-loads of minor officials were ob-served sculling about among the aquatic spectators, ap]>arcntly to keep order. These crammed themselves close to the ship, under her bows, stem, and quarters, peering in at the port-holes, and feel-ing her sides, as though to see what she was made of.

Wo now determined to land, and thus still farther to gratifv their curiosity ; accordingly, we steered our way with no little difiiculty through a ma7^ of boats of all sorts and sizes, and filled with all classes and conditions of sight-seers, to a landing-place from which a flight of steps led up into the town, but which was now so crowded with human beings that it secmt»d a problem how we should ever succeed in forcing our way through them. We no sooner stepped ashore than a lane was somewhat precipi-tately opened, and the people fell back almost as if alarmed. Wo f Hind the streets as thronged as the steps, but every where the crowd ma^le way respectfully ; indeed, it was rather a curious il-histration of the moral influence exercised by the presence of four foreign ships in the very heart of the empire, that we should trav-erse the streets of a populous city not only unhindered and un-molested, but obliged in a friendly voice to exclaim constantly, •* Pub, pao I puh, pao !" " Don't be afraid ! don't be afraid I'* a most condescending piece of advice for a handful of strangers to give to a million of people.

The streets themselves were superior to any I had seen in any

560 AN ORDERLY CROWD.— PLAN OP HAN-KOW.

Other city of the empire. They were well paved, and roofed over with mats as they are ia Persian or Egyptian cities, but still broad enoagh to be bright and cheerfuL The shops were well stocked, and upon a much grander and handsomer scale than those at Canton or any of the open ports. Foot-passengers, wheel-barrows, loaded either with merchandise or people, and gentlemen of substance in chairs, crowded the thorough£Etres. We observed that one chair followed us pertinaciously, and discovered that it contained a petty mandarin, who had either assumed, or was in-structed to perform, the oflBce of spy. When we objected to his surveillance, he assured us that he followed us purely out of re-gard for our safety, and for the purpose of keeping the crowd in order. Indeed, he soon began to display an amount of vigor in the performance of this duty which we by no means approved^ getting out of his chair whenever we entered a shop, and dispeis-ing the crowd which naturally collected round the doorway with violent blows of his whip. As this was a mode of procedure cal-culated to make us unpopular with the people, who were (oly manifesting a most natural and harmless curiosity, we remon-strated, and tdtimately succeeded in shaking off our officious at-tendant ; but we had reason to suspect that his conduct was in accordance with instructions received &om the supreme authoiity of the province. We were soon after confirmed in this view by the request which our attendant official, Wang, who had accom-panied us frem Shanghai, made the same day, that Lord Elgin would not press the point of entering the provincial city of Wo-chang, or of calling upon the governor general.

We observed proclamations posted up in various parts of the town, informing the people of the intended visit of foreignera to their dty, but assuring them that their stay was to be a short one. and not for commercial purposes. Neverthdess, the commoDest query among those of the crowd who were bold enough to ad-dress us was, "What have you got to sell, and when are you cwn-ing to trade ?"

The plan of Han-kow is very simple. Two principal arteries intersect it in parallel lines, while across them run a number of curved streets about equidistant from each other. After we had taken a cursory view of the town and its shops — ^the latter we proposed to investigate more thoroughly — ^we crossed the Han, and proceeded to scramble up the hill on its opposite bank. The

TA-PIEH.— VIEW or WO-CHASO. 5^1

tower at its sanumt vas probably about tbree hondred feet above the pkm, and afforded a magniflcent and extensive prospect The bill itself WB8 called Ta-pielt, or " The Great Dividing Mount"

At OUT feet the mighty Yang-tee rolled its yellow tide aeavard, ibove this point a well-navigated and oseM stream, but hencefor-wird to flow through a devastated country, and bear upon its bo-aosa the wreck and debris of those populotu dties whose sctivr oommcrce once gave life and animation to its now deserted waters. We looked down upon the decks <^ our own ships, riding proud-ly at anchor where foreign ships had never lain before, towering above the black mass of boats that crowded round them ; nor was it poHflible to help feeling a thrill of exultation as we watched the British ensign Buttering for the flist time in the very heart of the empire.

Facing us as we gazed across the stream, and nobly ntuated on swelling bills, rose from the water's edge Wo-chang, the capital of Uoopeh, and worthy of being called the queen of Yang-tse. Its liills, terraced with bouses and crowned with pagodas, and its

doable wall lining the margin of the river with towers, gatewajra, and bastionfl, all combine to give it an impoang and m^esdc »p-|>earancc. It was not until we entered its streets that the delusioD

562 HAN-YANG.—HAN-KOW.— POPULATION.

vanished. Now it was a charming feature in the view. Beneath us, on our right, hemmed in by two steep ridges, along which ran its turreted walls, is the departmental city of Han-yang. We looked down upon its deserted streets, its roofless houses, crumbling walls, and grass-grown courts. Never a city of any great extent, it has suffered severely from rebel occupation, and forms a melancholy but not unpicturesque feature in the view.

On the left, in strong contrast to this scene of desolation, the crowded mart of Han-kow lay spread upon the plain at our feet, while the Han, teeming with its boat population, was lost in the distance, its winding course marked by the sails of numerous junks. A setting sun shed a warm glow over the lakes which were dot-ted over the country to the northward, and beyond them sweUing hills closed this magnificent and most interesting panorama.

The point at which we now stood enabled us to see at a glance the extent of the area occupied by the three cities'of Wo-chang Han-yang, and Han-kow, and to form a very fair estimate of their present populations. Hue, who merely passed through the two latter pities, and does not seem to have had very good opportuni-ties of judging, calculates the population at eight millions. With every possible allowance for the faculty which the Qhinese possess of packing closely, I do not think that it was practicable to have compressed into the area beneath us a population considerably greater than that of the whole of Ireland. We thought that we made a very liberal calculation when we put the entire population then inhabiting these three cities at one million ; but we saw them, doubtless, under a very great disadvantage ; the area strewn with ruins was about as great as that inhabited, so that in Hue's time these cities probably contained more than twice their present num-ber of inhabitants : perhaps their united populations may have equaled that of London, but certainly never exceeded it

Meantime a number of Chinese had discovered the group of foreigners at the top of the hill, and were crowding up it ; so we thought it time to descend from our exalted position, more es-pecially as we could not help out our calculations by informatioii derived from the by-standers ; for when we asked what was the number of persons inhabiting the cities, they gave us the usual Chinese answer on such occasions, " Many myriads."

1th. The petty mandarin, Wang, who had accompanied us fit»n Shanghai, and had yesterday expressed the hope that Lord Elgin

1

BAMBOO CABLE.— FRICE OF MANCHESTER COTTOKS. 50$

would not visit the goveraor general in Wocfaang, was this morn* ing dispatched to that city with a note to his excellency, inform* ing him of Lord Elgin^s intention to visit him to-morrow. Some officeTB from some of the ships also went off on an exploratory expedition to Wo-chang. I accompanied Lord Elgin on a voyage of discovery to the lefl bank, with a view of making more minute investigations into the contents of the shops, and the resources of Han-kow generally.

We had been struclc, when on board the ship, by a number of high stages like watch-towers erected along the river margin. On closer inspection these proved to be bamboo-cable manufactories. The split bamboo is collected upon a stage raised thirty or forty feet from the ground. This stage is of very small dimensions — merely affording accommodation to a single man, who is sheltered by a mat roof The process of plaiting the cable takes place here, and it is coiled on the ground below, the object of the contrivance being apparently to enable one man unassisted to coil and dutpose ocHnfortably of so unwieldy an article as a six-inch bamboo cable* At first sight, the appearance of these stages, with a long rope de-pending from them, was most mysterious and puzzling.

It was Lord Elgin's habit, when in China, to lose no opportunity of entering into personal communication with the people, and upon this occasion we got upon intimate terms with sundry intelligent artisans and shopkeepers. The first person wo observed whose occupation arrested our attention was a man whose arms were a brilliant blue as far as his elbows, and who was engaged in spread-ing upon the grass cloths of the same hue. We found, upon a closer inspectioUf that these were Manchester cottons. He told us they cost him 700 cash a chang.* The process of dyeing them cost 200 cash a chang ; so that the entire cost of Manchester cotton, dyed blue in China for clothing, was 900 cash a chang, or about ninepence halfpenny a yard. Cotton used for the same purpose, of Chinese manufacture, of one third the width, was worth 200 cash a chang, making it, after estimating the difference in width, 100 cash cheaper than British.

The indigo, which was the dye used, is grown in hrge quanti-ties in the immediate neighborhood. It is also extensively culti-vated in Kwei-chau. Some of the cotton was being dyed green, is a cheaper dye than indigo, and prepared from two kinds

* 4 yardi--0M chang; S8S oMh^one ihllUaf.

/

r

564 INSECT-WAX: THE MODE OF ITS PBODUCTXON.

of bark. We entered the house, and saw the boiling prooesB go-ing on. One species of bark is called Tung-len, and is grown in Chang-teh; the other, Shwing-chin. The cloth is washed in a mixed infusion of these twice a day — ^in the case of native cotton, for five days, and in that of long cloths, for ten days.

We also inspected the manufacture of a species of native cotton velvet. The cotton cloth is stretched and scraped with a horse-hair brush into a sort of long plush ; it is then prepared with a peculiar leaf, an infusion of which poured over it gives it a early woolen appearance.

The most interesting subject of our investigations, however, was the Peh-lah, or insect-wax, of which we saw large quantities ex-posed for sale' in the tallow-chandlers' shops. It is usually sold in blocks shaped like cheeses, and, when broken, presents a fiaky^ crystalline appearance not unlike spermaceti. When we went into the tallow-chandler's back shop, or rather candle manufactoiy, we discovered one of its principal uses. The vegetable tallow of which candles are usually made melts with great fisu^ilily ; in or-der, therefore, to prevent them from running, they are cpated with a thin crust of finest wax : this is extremely hard, and slow to melt, so that it retains the vegetable tallow in a liquid state, and is a clean and economical ingredient

While we were in vain endeavoring to extract some precise data from the shopkeeper as to the source of supply of this singu-lar production, a man in the crowd volunteered the information. It was, he said, the article in which he traded. The province m which it was produced was Sz'-chuen ; but, singular to state, al-though the peculiar tree necessary to the sustenance of the insect would thrive there, it was found necessary to keep up the supply of insects by the constant importation of eggs from beyond the western frontier of the province. He had constantiy been engaged in these expeditions. He described the insect as being about an inch in length, and of a pale gray color. The tree on which, ac-cording to our authority, it feeds exclusively, is called the Peh-lah-shuh. One insect is considered to have performed his part cred-itably if he exudes one ounce of wax in the season. This lasts only during the summer months. The insect is not affected by rain or weather, but when the leaves &11 it dies. The wax is then collected, and melted in a cloth over boiling water. It is of the purest white. On the large cakes hanging in the grocers' and tal-

RBCENT DEMOLITION AND RESUSCITATION OP HAN-KOW. 566

low^chandlera* shops at Han-kow we often observed the inscrip-tion written, " It mocks at the frost, and rivals the snow.'' The price was forty dollars a picol, or about fifteen pence a pound.

We were gratified on observing, in some of the shops, well-known British stamps, proving that the manufactures of our own country were at last beginning to find their way into the empire. We a^ed the price of some ladies' superfine habit-cloth, and found it five taels and a half a chang,* or about six shillings a yard.

It is worthy of remark that native-grown opium was freely ex-posed for sale in the streets.

The fur-shops of Han-kow were numerous and well-stocked. The winter supply had evidently just come in, and some of the most expensive and rare furs from the province of Shansi and the Thibetian frontier were to be procured here at the usual fabulous prices. Our searches for old china, bronzes, and curiosities proved vain. Han-kow was apparently too practical a place to offer at-tractions to dilettanti ; and there was a stir and movement in the streets which betokened great mercantile activity. We could scarcely credit the fact that only two years and four months ago this bustling city had been leveled to the ground. Many of the townspeople, whom we questioned on the subject, assured us that not a stone had been left standing upon another, so completely had the rebels demolished the shops and houses, afler having ri-fled them of their contents.

No stronger proof could be afforded of the vitality of trade at this point, and of its importance as a commercial centre, than the marvelous resuscitation of Han-kow. In every direction houses were being built and new shops opened. An additional stimulus was doubtless afforded by the stagnation of the past two years, the unavoidable result of rebel proximity. Now, however, those ^* troublesome pests*' were removed to a greater distance, and the chances of their revisiting Han-kow were sufficiently remote to encourage the people to re-establish themselves, though a marked disinclination was always evinced to allude to the *Mong-haired men," as the rebels were invariably called. Whenever they were mentioned, the cautious Chinaman was always on his guard against saying any thing which might be hereafter brought up against as an evidence of hostility to the revolutionary cause. It

• 1800 to 1400 cMhsoM tSftL

666 POPULATION FLUCTUATING.— MANDARINIC DIPLOMACY.

was remaxkable that at Han-kow all the little shrines in the pri-vate houses and verandas were empty. Grenerally, in a Chinese town, the Lares and Penates of the householder are in these re-cesses, and joss-sticks bum before small images. Now there was not one to be seen, in deference, doubtless, to the iconoclastic propensities of the " long-haired men." The only sacred edifice which we observed in process of restoration at Han-kow was the Temple of Longevity, in which the emperor's birthday is cele-brated.

Like great marts which partake in some measure of the nature of fairs, the population of Han-kow is both varied and fluctuating. At certain seasons of the year traders from Hi, Kobdo, and other parts of Thibet visit Han-kow, their marked Tartar features and turbaned heads distinguishing them from the Chinese. In no other city of the empire have I seen so great a variety of type of feature. There is, of course, the general character which dis-tinguishes the Mongol in them all ; but, though flat noses and ob-lique eyes are universal, yet it is scarcely conceivable how many distinct varieties of flat noses and oblique eyes there may be. Then, besides this, the shades of complexion, though they are all of a copper tinge, are very different. Han-kow, being simply a mercantile emporium, comprises in its population a much larger proportion of males to females than is to be found in Chinese cities generally. This is easily accounted for by the &ct of so many of its inhabitants being merely visitors.

We were unable to make any purchases to-day, as the officials, with a view of discouraging, as much as possible, our supposed trading propensities, had forbidden the people to take our monej. To such an extent was this carried, that all the dollars which had been expended for ships' stores, and which had been readily taken by the people before the order was issued, were brought on board by the authorities this afternoon, who wished to return them. Lord Elgin, however, steadily declined to accept any thing with-out paying for it, and refused sheep, cattle, etc., which were press-ed upon him, unless allowed to give their full vfdue in return. It was not difficult to see through the shallow diplomacy of the mandarins, and to perceive that their object was to prevent, as much as possible, all intercourse with the people, who were only too anxious to be upon the most intimate terms with us.

We had a still stronger proof of this determination in the after-

COMMERCIAL IKVESTIGATIOMS. 667

QOOD, when the party retarned from Wo-chang after an ineffectual attempt to enter the city. They had been refused entrance by the guanii at the gate with some rudeness, and altogether treated in a manner somewhat at variance with the tone which the commis-sioners at Shanghai had manifested during our intercourse, and which was at that time supposed to be the tone of the government generally.

Sth. Although the authorities were by no means in that frame of mind to which it was desirable they should be brought, the governor general scarcely ventured to refuse to see Lord Elgin. )Vang therefore returned late last night with a message from tht governor general to the eiTect that he would be prepared to re* oeive a visit from the British plenipotentiary, and this morning a .special messenger arrived to make arrangements for the ceremony, which is to take place to-morrow at two o'clock. Meantime I went with Mr. Lay on another tour of commercial investigation, but upon this occasion wo confined ourselves to the waters of the Uan.

The junks were moored side by side to each bank of the river as closely as it was possible to pack them, leaving only a narrow fairway down the centre of the stream. You could walk for hundreds of yards from the deck of one to that of another, in-specting the cargo of each, and cross-examining her owner or captain as you did so.

The construction of these junks varied according to the district to which they belonged. Many of them had descended the Yang-tae-Kiang, or some of its tributaries, for upward of a tliousand miles. Some were long narrow craft, pointed both at stem and stem ; others were turned up in the bows like a Turkish slip])er. or built like an old Dutch lugger with a swelling bosom. Manv of them were handsomely fitted up with cabins, apparently for tht* accommodation of passengers as well as cargo; others were filth-ily dirty, and afforded shelter only to a greasy skipper and stil. more greasy crew.

It is a melancholy admission to be obliged to make, that after all our trouble we did not succeed in obtaining any very reliable information. IIxul we been content^nl to believe what the first glib Chinaman chose to tell us, we might have returned well sup-plied with fSEicts; but, unfortunately, the more we prosecuted our researches, the more difficult did it become to know what to be*

568 ^ DIALOGUE.

lieve, as we never succeeded in getting two people to agree upon any one pointy however simple, and, one should suppose, unsus-ceptible of dispute. This did not arise &om any desire to mis* lead ; on the contrary, the people invariably mmifested the ut-most willingness to impart all the information in their power; they seemed highly gratified at the interest we took in the suV ject, and were evidently most anxious that we should be induced to come and trade with them. The great difficulty was to pre-vent them from all speaking at once, and induce them to give di-rect or intelligible answers to very plain questions.

For instance, it was hopeless to expect them to comprehend any inquiry which presupposed any premises whatever. Tou could not begin by asking where silk was grown. The introduc-tion necessary to arrive at this result is the incontrovertible state-ment, '^ There is such a thing as silk."

Chinaman repeats eagerly, " There is such a thing as silk; 6k yes ; ah I there is such a tlidng as silk.'!

" Silk grows in some provinces ; in some it does not."

Chinaman repeats, thoughtfully, '' Yes, silk grows in some prov-inces ; in some it does not."

By-standers, who have taken up the idea with greater rapidity, remark to one another, '^ Ah I true ; in some provinces silk does not grow."

"Does this province produce silk?"

**Yes."

"Does Sz'chuen produce silk?"

"No."

" Then do you carry silk to Sz'chuen ?"

"No."

" What do you carry to Sz'chuen ?"

Chinaman repeats, puzzled, " What do I cany to Sz'chuen ?'*

By-standers all repeat, vivaciously, " What do you cany to Sz'chuen?"

phinaman : " Sometimes I carry silk to Sz'chuen, and some-times I carry cotton."

"Does cotton grow in Sz'chuen?" " Yes."

" And yet you cany cotton to Sz'chuen ?" "Oh I sometimes I bring cotton here from Sz'chuen." By-standers, unanimously : " Sometimes he brings cotton here from Sz'chuen."

COMMEBCE OF HAN-KDW, HOOKAH, AND STCHUEN. 569

And 80 on until one^s patience is fiiirly exhansted, 9xA one wonders wberein the indisputable intelligence of a Chinaman con-sists, and how it happens that, notwithstanding his ntter inability to stand crofls*examination upon the subject with which he is most familiar, he excels every other nation in his instincts for develop-ing the internal traffic in his vast and productive country.

Fortunately, most of these junks had their cargoes on board, so we could judge for ourselves. Those laden with coal formed a large proportion of the fleet then at anchor in the river, which were principally from Iloonan. We ship|)ed coal, some of a good and some of a very inferior quality, at X2 95. 8dl a ton* The best coal comes from a place called Ching-Leang. Hoouan also sends to Han-kow quantities of oil and charcoal ; also hemp, beans, rice, and grain. In fact, Hoonan seemed to produce almost every thing but cotton. This is the principal production of Iloopeh, and it forms the bulk of the cargoes to Hoonan and Sz'chuen* We ar-rived at very different conclusions with reference both to Iloonan and Hoopeh from the accounts given in the Chinese Reposiicry. According to that very trustworthy authority, the external traffic of Iloonan is trifling, but our observation led us to believe that it formed the principal share of that at Ilan-kow ; so the description of Hoopeh in the Repository would give one to understand that it produced almost every thing, whereas, except cotton and tea, we -found it difficult to induce our junk friends to name a product; but that may have been from a want of imagination on their part

Silk seems to be grown in the Loticn district, and some of a yellow description in Ma-ching, which also produces gypsum and some indigo. Shang-teh produces indigo of a very superior de-scription.

Sz'chuen is the great mineral-producing province. THn, lead, and copper come from the capital, Ching-tu. The best sugar Lh also grown in Sz'chuen ; and indigo, tobacco, and drugs find their way down the Yang-tse from the same province.

Tin and iron of a superior quality are found at P&ouching.

The trade from Ewei-chau and Hoonan did not seem to be very extensive ; the latter was described as a great grazing prov-ince, exporting cattle and hides. Kiang-si sends its quota of gndn and sugar, but is more especially fiunous for its porcelain.

Last, but not least, we oome to that most important product,

570 ^H£ TEA-FBODUCING DISTRICTS.

tea. The province of Hoopeh, in which we now were, is supposed to produce the finest description of Congo. This is known in Canton and the ports as Oopak tea, Oopak being the Canton pro-nunciation of Hoopeh ; but it does not seem necessarily to come fix)m this province. These teas are also grown in the mountain-ous province of Kwei-chau, and in Hoonan. The best Oopak tea, however, was said to be grown in the district of Toong-shan, in the department of the Wo-chang.

The yellow teas, commonly stated to be exported to Russia from Hoopeh, appear to be grown in Ngan-hwui, the adjoining province.

A bitter tea, somewhat resembling our own strong black tea, which we tasted afterward on the occasion of our visit to the governor general, and which was served immediately after din-ner, instead of coffee, as a digestive, is grown only at a place call-ed Pu-urh, a department in the province of Yunan, on the Laos frontier and Meikon Biver. This tea is made up in large or small circular cakes, according to its quality. It is very expen-sive, and considered the most reckercM thing in the way of tea which can be imbibed. I only once tasted it during my residence in China. There are two descriptions of Hoopeh tea, which are made up into bricks tightly pressed, and present somewhat the appearance, when cut transversely, of a cake of cavendish tobacco. I bought these at a little more than two shillings a brick. There can be no doubt, however, that the finest teas grown in China are those of Fukhien and Cheh-kiang, which already compose the principal share of the tea exported to this country.

I trust that the above very prosaic description of the trade of Han-kow will have been skipped by those of my readers who are not interested in our commerce with China. Those who are must remember the uncertain sources finom which it was derived, and not give it more credit than it deserves ; the chief portion of it was obtained on board a very haudsome junk, used as a grain-store and agency. The heads of the firm happened to be on board at the period of our visit, and regaled us with tea and pipes A considerable crowd collected before we had been there manv minutes, and when, after a long mercantile discussion, we rose to go away, and bade them adieu, hoping that when they next saw Europeans it would be to trade, the intimation was received mlk a noisy acclamation, as nearly approaching a cheer as could be

A VISIT TO HAN-TANG.— STATEMENTS OF PSBE HUG. 571

expected of a Cbinaman. I have inserted in the Appendix a list of prices procured by Captain Osbom at Han-kow, with which he has kindly furnished me.

We occupied the afternoon in exploring Ilan-kow to its farther extremity, reaching, after a walk of about two miles, the open country. There we impressed our visit upon the memories of a noisy rabble of urchins who followed by giving them a scramble for cash, under cover of which we effected our escape into a ferry-boat, and crossed the Han with a view of visiting the interior of the city of Han-yang. It is surrounded by a nuissive, well-built wall in good repair, and has evidently been a compact, handsome city of small dimensions, probably not above two miles in circum-ference. It was apparently an aristocratic, quiet place, chiefly inhabited by officials and their retainers, and containing all the departmenttd public buildings. The ruins of these were exten-sive. Fragments of lions and dragons, carved in granite or mar-ble, lay strewn about the well-paved streets. Here i^nd there, a handsome carved granite archway still spanned the principal thoroughfares; but they were more often prostrate and over-grown with weeds. Some were undergoing the process of res-toration, and many of the authorities were inhabiting tem{>oran' abodes.

The scene of desolation was as complete here as elsewhere after rebel occupation, and presented the most melancholy traces of its former grandeur. Of the street connecting Uan-yang with Han-kow, and which must be upward of two miles in length, scarcely a house was left standing. M. IIuc says that ho took an hour to traverse the long streets of Han-yang. This is probably the street to which he refers, as there is no street inside the walls of Han-yang upward of half a mile long ; but the Jesuit missionary Is not always scrupulously accurate in his statements. He describes the Yang-tse-Kiang as presenting the appearance of an arm of the sea, and dangerous to cross, though wherein the danger consists we were at a loss to discover.

Again, apparently ignorant of the existence of any such river as the Han, M. Hue describes Han-kow as situate<l on a river fall-ing into the Yang-tse almost under the walls of Wo-chang, and translates the Chinese name Han-kow by ^' Bouche de Commerce** instead of '* Bouche de Han/* a rendering which, if it has not the merit of being a translation, is at least descriptive of the character of this great mercantile emporium.

572 vagi APFEABANCE OF EEEaANQEBa

CHAPTER 39.

CHAPTER XXXrS.

First Appearance of Strangers. — Snipe-shooting near Han-kow. — ^A Vist to Ae GoYcmor General. — External Aspect of Wo-chang. — ^Reception by the Gorenur General. — A magnificent Repast — ^The retam Visit. — A brilliant Scene. — Inspe^ tion of Midshipmen. — The Brave Army. — ^Their singular Umfbrm. — ^Paaofiaic Yievr of Wo-chang.— Seasons for our Retom. — SnbsideDce of the Biver.^A " Squeeze.*' — Ciyility of the rural Population. — The Lee in Troable.-~Lai6' quarries. — Wild Scenery. — Deep Water.

December 9. Lord Elgin having still reason to be dissatisfied with the tone maintained bj the officials, and the determination appaientlj evinced b j them to prevent our making pnichases of the most trifling character, sent Messrs. Wade and Lay over to Wo-chang in the Cruiser with a rather tart message, pos^KHung his visit to that high functionaiy.

The Gmiser consequently shifted her berth, and took up a po-sition immediately facing the principal entrance to the city. This demonstration produced the desired effect. Messrs. Wade and Lay were received with the utmost politeness, and the restrictioDS of which we complained were at once removed.

JxL the afternoon I had an opportunity of testing the good dis-positions of the peasantry toward foreigners. In company with Lieutenant Nott, of the Boyal Marine Artillery, I walked to a distance of four or five miles &om the ships to a charming lake which we discovered lying embosomed among the hills in ihs distance. The rumor diat barbarian s&ips were at Han-kow may have reached the little village lying in this secluded spot, bot certainly no specimen of the mysterious race that navigated them had ever before appeared among its simple inhabitants. ChikbreD ran crying at the hideous apparition to the maternal wing, and doubtless to this day are frightened into being good by thieate of our reappearance. Laborers suspended, for a longer interal than is usual with an industrious Chinaman, their avocations, to gaze and wonder at the two curiously-clad bipeds who seemed to prefer paddling along the margin of the lake up to their knees in water to walking on the dry land. Fishermen in boats coasted near ns, staring, criticising, and marveling at our conduct which,

A Vlflir TO THE QOVBBNOB OKHKBAL. 57S

to peraons inaooeat of the existence of sach an amusement as snipe-shooting, seemed unacooontable ; but when a bird fell dead into the water near them, their astonishment and delight were complete, and thej willingly performed the office of retrievers without an idea of remuneration. Their good-nature and desire to be useful were unbounded, and we had no difficulty in getting ferried about the lake in any direction our fancy prompted.

We only succeeded in bagging four couple of snipe and a hare, yet we were well repaid for the expedition by the beauty of the scenery and the civility of the people. Though it was late before we turned our steps homeward, and we were five miles from the ships, and quite alone among this race, popularly supposed to be so inveterately hostile to foreigners, so reassuring was the manner of the people that we were under no alarm, and plodded back in the dark as confidently as if we were coming home from the moors.

On our homeward voyage I was constantly out shooting, occa-sionally at a considerable distance from the river, and invariably found the same good-will prevailing on the part of the country people. Wherever it does not exist the influence of the manda-rins may always be distinctly traced.

10^ Wo started on our visit to the governor general to-day at 1 P.M. Our party was a large one, cousisting of thirty officers in \mifonn, besides the members of the miiu^ion. Forty marines and thirty blue-jackets formed the guard of honor. As the Lee got under weigh with the embassador on board, the heavy guns of the Furious and Cruiser thundered out such a salute as had never before resounded through the crowded streets of Ilan-kow, or shaken the frame- works of its wooden houses. A dense crowd, which had collected on the watcr*s edge to see the party embark on board the Lee, incontinently tumbled over one another in their alarm and confusion, and haste to escape ; nor was it till some moments had elapsed that they became assured of the harmle» character of our fire, and, laughing at their own fears, returned to their old position.

We were soon ferried across the river in the Lee, and found a number of chairs waiting to convey us through the streets, and a Chinese guard of honor drawn up at the landing-phioe. As we passed through the city gates, we observed another still stronger guard on duty there. We traversed Wo-chang for at least a mile

574 BECEPnON BY THE GOVEBNOB GENERAL.

and a half before we reached the yamunof the goyemor geneanl. The main street was the handsomest I had yet seen in GhuuL Probably the best streets in Soochow equal it, bat those along which I passed on the occasion of my visit to that city were cor-tainly iirferior to the principal thoronghfistre in Wo-chang. As our procession of chairs, marines, and blue-Jackets filed along it^ the crowds drawn up on each side were quiet and respectful, though intensely curious, gazing fixedly into each chair as it pass-ed, as though determined that the lineaments of its, occupant should be photographed upon their minds.

A hill terraced with houses intersects the city. The main street, however, tunnels under this, and the shops continue through tfae tunnel : indeed, the finest part of the street is at the entry to this interesting specimen of Chinese engineering. The shops here are better supplied, and there is a life and gayety which the reai of the town does not present : indeed, it is slowly recovering fiom the effects of prolonged rebel occupation. We crossed lai^ areas of desolation on our way to the yamun, but we had better oppor-tunities of judging of their extent upon a future occasion.

The yamun itself seems to have been spared by the insui^gents, for it was a handsome edifice, in good repair. We were received, on entering, with the usual salutes and discordant music, and found the governor general standing at the door of the inner court, surrounded by a brilliant staGT, waiting to receive Lord El-gin. I had never before seen such a splendid gathering of Chi-nese mandarins. Usually they do not think it worth while to re-ceive barbarians in their official costume, and are scrupulously plain in their attire. Now, however, as the governor general toe* care to inform Lord Elgin, all the provincial, civic, and militarr authorities were present in full dress, their silks, satins, and foi^ of the handsomest material, a\id their breasts emblazoned with dragons and other devices, elaborately embroidered. The spa-cious audience-hall contained at one end the usual raised seat upon which Lord Elgin and the governor general took their places. On each side, a long row of chairs and little tea-tables afforded accommodation for a British officer and a Chinese man-darin alternately ; though, beyond hobnobbing over hot tea, it was difficult to interchange civility, much less ideas.

Kwan, Governor General of Hoopeh and Hoonan, is a Tartar. He stands high in imperial favor, having been very suocessfol in

A MAGNIFICENT BKPAST. 575

his campaigns against the rebels, whom he has suooeeded in ex-pelling from his government He professed great knowledge of foreigners, from the circumstance of his having, at a former peri-od of his life, served in Canton as second in command of the Tar-tar garrison of that city. lie had, therefore, had opportunities of seeing the barbarian occasionally at a distance.

After a short conversation upon general subjects, our host led (he way to another apartment, in which a magnificent banquet was prepared upon a scale infinitely superior to any similar en* tertainment at which we had assisted in China. Four sets of ta-bles, sufficient to accommodate the whole party, were loaded with all the delicacies of the season, tastefully arranged in pyramidal and globular structures. Nor was this merely the cold collation common to official visits. A great variety of hot dishes made their appearance in rapid succession, generally somewhat greasy in their nature, but occasionally very palatable to persons of a confiding temperament, and who did not care minutely to inves-tigate the materials of which these various entn^*c8 were com-posed.

Sundry descriptions of hot wines were also pressed upon us, and afterward the excellent Pu-uhr tea, to which I have already alluded. It was not merely from a desire to soothe our '^ uncon-trollable fierceness*' that we were thus magnificently entertained. Our host was evidently a bon-vivant, and a man of hospitable tendencies. He delighted in piling delicacies on his own plate as well as the plates of his neighbors, and took a manifi-^t pride in the excellence of his cuisine, and completeness of his arrange-ments generally. We afterward learned that the escort of seven-ty men had also been provided with refreshment At last, after having done thorough justice to his feast, we bade adieu to our sybaritic entertainer, who accompanied Lord Elgin, as usual, to his chair, with many expressions of regret at Uung obliged to part with him, and assurances that, in the mean time, his only consolation would be in the prospect of returning the visit on the following day.

We were followed by a considerable crowd on our way back to the river-bank, and re-embarked under a Chinese salute, well satisfied with the day's experiences, our entire enjoyment being alloyed only by a vague feeling of uneasiness and apprehension at the possible consequences of our gastronomic indulgenceSi with

576 ^I'HE BETUBN VISIT.— A BBILLIANT SCENE.

which we were not unnaturally haunted for the succeeding twen-ty-four hours.

11^. The bright) dear autumn days in which we have been reveling aie most propitious to the interchange of official dvilitiefl) which involved so much open-air display. At eleven this morn-ing, the Prefect of Wo-chang, and several other mandarinfi of rank, came on board to prepare the way for the great man. As the ceremony was to be invested with much pomp and circum-stance, the news had spread far and wide, and the sur&oe of the great river was literally alive with boats full of pleasure-parties and sight-seers, who turned out as fireely as if our gun-boats had been in Southampton water instead of the Yang-tse-Kiang, and they had come down express to see the great naval review.

We could discern with our glasses the troops, both cavaliy and in&ntry, lining the opposite bank, and make out the state junL After l^e usual amount of suspense and watching, three pufb of smoke indicated the arrival of the governor general ; then the unwieldy craft got under weigh, and the exdtement became in-tense. Official boats, with flags fluttering from stem and sterna darted about, ordering, directing, and clearing the way ; the hum of many voices filled the air ; the river brink presented a dense mass of heads, whose owners were all squeezing, staring, and g;^ bling.

Meantime the huge state junk, covered with flags, and towed by six twenty-oared boats in line, all similarly decorated, was sweeping at a slow and dignified pace across the stream, surround-ed by crowds of boats containing minor officials and spectatoia As she approached, we added our own collection to the dragons and other Celestial devices which were already waving in the breeze. Suddenly the ships were dressed, and a suppressed ''Ay, yahl" of astonishment was uttered by the crowd. Meantime mandarins of all ranks were arriving, and pouring in upon oar deck ; and the ship was surrounded by boats full of soldiers in red jackets, with spears, bows, matchlocks, and tridents, with oth-er quaint and £Ekntastic weapons.

Among these the executioners were the most conspicuous, with their conical bloodstained hats, truculent countenances, and plait-ed thongs for castigation — ^the badges of their office. Then die great junk was made fast alongside, and all the ships manned yards, and bdched out a noisy welcome to the exalted visitor as

THK OOTEBKOB OENERAL AHD SUTtK.

577

he stepped on board; aod tbe flags waved, and tbe gonga beat, and the crowd munnured their satiaiactioD, while the bright suu shone glorioualy upon a scene as exciting and novel as it was ever mj good fortune to witness.

The governor general and saite were now taken over the ship, and looked for the first time upon the wonderful mechanism of a

400-hone-power steam-engine without betraying any astonish* mcnt When, however, the 95-bandred-weight pivot gun was worked for their edification, a gleam of dignified surprise might be detected by an acute observer lighting up all their counte-nances. AfWr a luncheon, which could acanx-ly equal in its pro-portions that of the governor general, but to which he did full justice, be was " poeed" for his photograph upon the deck. The result, which may be seen in the annexcnl wood-cut^ charmed his excellency, and he extorted the meet solemn promises from Mr. Jocelyn that he should be furnished with a supply of prints to be sent to him from Shanghai. Onr distinguished guest was particularly struck with the youth-Oo

578 INSPECTION OF MIDSHIPMEN.— THE BRAVE ABBfT.

fol warriors by whom he found himself surrounded. Midshipmen are always a source of astonishment to Chinamen, who are aocos-tomed to treat boys with a kindness almost amounting to lesp&cX, and can in no degree comprehend the system which induces us to expose them at so early an age to the perils and dangers which are involved in the service of their country. Kwan requested a collection of these young gentlemen to be brought to him for in-spection, and informed them, with an approving smile, that he dis-covered, in the expression of their countenances, a very high order of talent. At last the great man took his leave, protesting with a vehement and energetic fervor the satisfaction he had derived &om the visit, and professing, in ^affectionate terms, sentiments of eternal respect and amity. Then, under the thunder of more sa-lutes, he stepped on board his gay barge. That ponderous and singular specimen of naval architecture once more swung slowly into the stream, and, like an elephant drawn by an army of rata followed its fleet of many-oared boats to the opposite shore.

As we were desirous of a closer inspection of the brave troops drawn up in gallant array under the walls of Wo-chang, and had not yet sufficiently satisfied our curiosity with respect to that city, a party of us pulled across, and reached the opposite bank almost as soon as the governor general himself We found &om fifteen hundred to two thousand men drawn up in a line upon the river margin.

The cavalry were mounted on rough ponies, thirteen or fourteen hands high. A red jacket of coarse cloth, and a remarkable de-scription of lappet, felling over the outside of the thigh over their trowsers, composed the uniform. The men were all armed with matchlocks swung behind their backs, and the officers had swords, and quivers full of arrows. The bows were not visible. But the costume of the infantry was &r more grotesque and fantastic. At-tached to each regiment were a score or more of men dressed in a -complete flesh-colored suit, fitting tightly to the skin, and whidi reached from the hood that covered their heads down to their anikles. Each man held over the middle of his person a areolar straw shield, upon which hideous ogre faces were painted. At a distance these men looked as though they were naked, with noth-ing on but their shields. On approaching nearer, however, they assume rather the appearance of harlequins, for then we could dis-cern that the yellow skin which covered them was omamfflited

SINGULAR UNDfOBH— PANORAMIC VIEW OF WOCHANO. 579

with litUe black twirligigs like tadpoles. AllogeUier, their as-pect was most absurd and ludicrous; and as they seeing to have DO weapon of defense, they are probably expected to strike terror into an enemy by their personal appearance. Next in order to this squad of tom-fook was a small body of men in black, armed with matchlocks, the fuses wound round the stock of the gun. Then came the main body of the regiment in red, armed with spears, bows and arrows, and swords. Four or five such regi-ments, besides the cavalry, were drawn up to receire the goTcmor general, and a portion of them accompanied him as a guard of honor through the town. We managed to avoid the procession, and, escaping into some by-stroeta, reached the ridge to which I have already alluded as being tunneled through by the principal street

From the summit of this hill, which divides the city into two equal parts, a good pancMimiio view of it is obtained The area of ground- inclosed by the walls of Wo-chang is probably larger than that occupied by Canton ; but not more than a third of this space is built upon and inhabited, so that the relative proportion of its population with that of the latter city is materially dtered

We estimated the population of Wo-chang at from three to four hundred thousand. The walls are dilapidated, in some partB out of repair, and mount no guns. Large tracts of ground are strewn with ruins and the debris of houses destroyed by the rebels. Some idea of the deserted character of portions of the city may be formed from the fact that, while walking down the centre of it, we put up two brace of pheasanta So solitary was the spot that the crowd did not discover us for some time, and then only collected in small numbers. From the highest point we com-manded a bird's-eye view of all the public buildings left standing. Of these the principal were the hall of examination, the yamun of the Governor General Kwan, that of the governor of the city, and a handsome pagoda. A body of troops was encamped in tents at our feet, and parade was actually going on.

Altogether the military display at Wo-chang was more com-plete and extensive than any thing I had yet seen in China.

Beyond the walls the country was broken and undulating; nu-merous lakes lay glittering beneath the rays of the setting sun, whose ruddy disk, almost touching the level horizon of the plains in a westerly directioUf warned us that we had not allowctl our-

580 BEASONS FOB OUR RETUBN.

selves more time thau was necessoiy to regain the bank, and cross the wide river to our faithful ship among the junks at Han-kow.

12th. We had now spent six days at Han-kow ; but five weeks had elapsed since our departure firom Shanghai, and we b^an to give our friends credit for feeling some anxiety on our aooonnt Knowing the fertility of the Chinese brain in inventing improba-ble stories, and the readiness of the British public to believe them, it became incumbent on us to commence, without onneoesaary de-lay, our return journey. Nor was there any very valid excuse for pushing farther up the river. Han-kow was the extreme point at which we were to be allowed a port by treaty, and, except for purposes of exploration, we had no public reason for prolong-ing our voyage.

Never before, in the annals of British naval enterprise, had one of her majesty's frigates accomplished so many miles of river ex-ploration ; and it was with the utmost reluctance that we now ex-posed the stem instead of the bows of our good ship to the foioe of that current which she had so bravely breasted. We had at one time been sanguine enough to indulge the hope of reaching the Toong-ting Lake, the largest sheet of water in China, and fiom which we were scarce a hundred miles distant; this probably would be the extreme limit to which a ship drawing sixteen feet of water could ascend, under the most favorable circumstances; beyond that are the rapids .of Kwei, as to the exact character <^ which obstruction we are not yet informed, but it is not imposB-ble, firbm the vague accounts which have reached us, that river-steamers drawing little water, and with plenty of power, might ascend them.

During the whole period of our stay the people had never ceased collecting opposite the ships and staring at them; and, doubtless, many years hence, when there are steamers plowing the waters of the Yang-tse as freely as they do now those of the Mississippi, old men will tell their wondering progeny, who are probably stokers, that they remember the day when foreign ships. then supposed to be under demoniacal influence, suddenly appear-ed for the first time among the now obsolete craft, formerly known as junks, at Han-kow, and, after remaining a week, as suddoily vanished ; and how, for some time afterward, until barbarians again reached Han-kow and built a magnificent city upm its

8UBSIDENCB OF THE RIYSa— WILD FOWL. 581

rivcr-bankA, it was popularly supposed that the apparition had been sopernataral.

We reached the ** Sqitreze,^^ above Hwang-chow, in time to buoy it out for to-morrow, but found, to our dismay, that since we had last crossed it the water had fallen five feet, and was still subsid-ing rapidly. The information, therefore, which we received on our way up, that the water had already been at its lowest, was en* tirely fklse and erroneous.

18^. The day was spent in looking in vain for a passage over a bar a little below Ilwang-chow. Things begin to look serious ; every moment of delay renders our chance of getting over the several bars ahead more remote. The Dove and Lee are inde-fiitigable in their efibrtg to find a channel. Some of our party consoled themselves by landing on a sand-bank in pursuit of wild geese, and were fortunate enough to bag three.

14tfi. Dove on shore, and our channel-hunters completely non-plused. Gloomy spirits indulge in the most depressing specula-tions as to the future, and visions of wintering up the Yang-tst* are somewhat forcibly presented to the imagination. By way of testing the resources of the neighborhood in the event of such a contingen<7, parties of us landed, and shot and explored in all di-rections. We found an extensive plain stretcUng from the vil-lages and cultivation which line the bank to the blue distance where trees were faintly discernible.

This plain is a lake in summer, and we crossed to where some of its waters still remained It is traversed by a mere muddy ditch, which is a tributary to an inconsiderable stream called the Paho, which enters the Yang-tse-Kiang at this point The short green herbage afibrds grazing to numerous flocks of unapproachable wild geese. Storks, cranes, herons, and all sorts of monster water-fowl stalk about the grass, so shortly cropped that it would not afford shelter for a mouse, and loom in the distant haae like os-triches. Distorted pigs, and buffaloes ridden by boys, share the pasturage with these birds.

Many of these water-fowl were of a description entirely new to me. Besides wild duck there were grebe of many varieties, more interesting to the ornithologist than to the sportsman. Teal and widgeon were abundant, and I had.no difficulty in killing four brace ; but in the absence of a retriever, fishing them out of the water afterward was a less agreeable pastime. Fortunately, I

582 BURAL civiLrnr.— THE lee in trouble.

found the peasantry here, as elsewhere, delighted to be of use ; and one man abandoned entirely his agricultoral operations, and de-voted himself to swimming in after the birds, or plunging vigor-ously into the tenacious mud, stripping each time to his work.

We were frequently invited to refresh ourselves, as we plodded through the fields, with the hot tea which the laborers always keep ready boiling to comfort them during their midday toil ; a few charges of powder, or a dozen lucifer matches, were more hi^ily appreciated than handfuls of cash : the matches especially were handed about, and treasured as miracles of pyrotechnic skOL In many instances the peasantry declined any pecuniary remunera-tion, and would only receive these curiosities at our hands.

Lord Elgin had in the mean time visited the town of Paho,and described it as a compact little place, substantially built of red sandstone. While I was engaged in ingratiating myself into the affections of the rural population, I suddenly observed the recall signal flying at the mast-head of the Furious, and reached her just in time to share in the excitement of charging a fburteen-feet bar.

The deepest channel that could be found gave us eighteen indies less water than we were drawing. However, as the only alterna-tive was to remain where we were. Captain Osbom felt justified in putting the old ship at it, and it must be admitted that she took her fence in a most creditable style. At one moment she canted over a good deal, and we were in doubt whether the bottom was soft enough and the current strong enough to carry her over. It was with no little satisi^tion that we dropped anchor at last in deep water, on the right side of this formidable obstacle.

15^. Our hopes of last night have proved as &lse and dufting as the bed of this most treacherous river. No sooner had we con-gratulated ourselves upon the success of our late achievement than the Lee was brought up in ten fiithoms upon a pinnacle of rock, upon which ^he began graceftdly pirouetting, as though in mock-ery of our despair. While her zealous commander, Lieutenant Jones, was engaged in laying out hawsers and stream-cables, and backing astern, and going ahead, and rolling and jumping, and ul-timately lightening her, we, who were now fiuniliar with evezy process to be resorted to with a gun-boat in difficulties, again took advantage of the delay to land and explore some interesting qua^ ries we had observed on our voyage up.

LDIE QUABBIE& 683

A precipitous range of limestone difis, firom 1600 to 2000 Saet in height) overhung the river at this point ; at its base the village of Shih-wa-yaou, inhabited principally by quanymen, was pictur* esquely situated, while its rugged sides were deeply scored and undermined by the long-prosecuted labor of men. The limestone is hewn out of the hill side with pickaxe and cold chisel, the proc-ess of blasting being apparently unknown. The kilns were sit-uated at the base of the hill. The fuel used was coal, principally procured from the neighborhood of Hmg-kwoh, its price at this place being 18s. a ton. The coal is mixed in the furaaoes with red clay. This clay, after it is burnt, is used for building pur-poses, and is placed together with unbumt brick in thick layers of lime. All the houses of which the town is composed are con-structed in this manner. I did not understand the object of mix-ing the day with the coal in the flrst instance. As scoria*, it seem* ed a convenient building material

The quick-lime is stacked in huge wicker frames, thirty or forty feet in hdght, thatched at the r»of, so that they present the appear-ance of enormous baskets turned topsy-turvy, the shape being that of an inverted truncated cone. The quick-lime is sold at the rate of l8.f. a ton, while the slack-lime is used as manure.

It appeared that the quarries were free to all comers, any nuin being entitled to purchase the privilege of working them by the payment of a rent of 1000 cash, or about four shillings, for six months, to a company who farm the quarries from the govern-ment

We were unable to discover the total amount paid by this com-pany to the government, nor could we obtain any accurate inform* ation as to the quantity of lime annually produced. The atrocious dialect in which our informants s|X)ke rendered the task of acquir-ing any predse knowledge of the subject more than usually diffi-cult. One piece of intelligence they gave us, however, which was by no means encouraging, and this was, that the river was still likely to (all some feet, as the rock on which the Lee was now perched was distinctly visible* at low water.

We ascended the hill to an elevation of 700 or 800 feet above the river, and reveled in the prospect which was spread out before u& The flourishing town of Hwang-shih-kang, presenting a fa-vorable contrast to the demolished dties in its neighborhood, lay basking in the sun a few miles distant — ^broad blue lakes and

584 WILD SCENERY.— DEEP WATER.

grassy plains extended northward to a purple range in the dim distance ; while behind us were wooded valleys, and wild rugged hills, with spurs jutting into the great river, and rising in abrupt wild crags from its yellow waters. We descended into a valley where some excavations into the hill side, with blackened edges^ gave promise of coal. None of the pits into which we entered were deep. The people said that they had not been worked for fifty years, but that, previous to that period, coal had been extract-ed £x)m them.

We were cheered, on our return to the ship, to find that the Lee had been rescued from her perilous position, though not without injury to her bottom ; still, we had every reason to congratolate ourselves that the rock had been discovered by her instead of by the Furious. With her greater draught of water and superior momentum, that excellent old tub, had she struck it, would in all probability have prematurdy teminated her existence in the ca<» of diplomatic exploration.

Projecting into the river a few Siiles below us is the remarka-ble bluff of Ke-tow, or the Cock's Head. The Dove haB jost re-turned from sounding beneath this stupendous rook, and reportB thirty-three fathoms of water.

EXPLORATION OF A LAKE. 585

CHAPTER 40.

CHAPTER XL

ExploratioD of A Lake.— An educated Vmmnu^Chnr$^ng the Bar.— lotrieaie Nati-gallon. — Good Sport. — We abandon the Fniioos. — Christmaa-daj. — Ckae Stow-age in the Lee.— Approach Ngan-king.— Mr. Wade's VUtt to the Bebeb.— Ub Report of it,— ArriTal at Woohoo.— A ficbel Commnnicatlon.— We Und at Nan-kin.—A Visit to a Bebd Chief.— Report of the Interriew.— Oar Intenriew with Le.— The real State of the Case.— Morab of the Rebels.— Strength of the Garri-aon.— The Rebel HmoIokj.

December 16. Our day's voyage led us through the gorge of Pwan, undoubtedly the finest piece of scenery on the river. A small river enters the Yang-tsc-Kiang from the south, dividing Hoopeh from Eliang-sL At a place called Toong-sha, on this riv-er, the finest tea of Hoopeh is said to be produced CSoal and cot-ton are two most important productions of this district

The downward voyage involved many more difficulties of nav-igation than we had experienced on our way up. We had then grounded frequently ; now there was five feet less water, and a strong tide sweeping us down on unknown dangers. The inci-dents of a voyage down the Volga were forcibly recalled to my mind, but the '* pericartes" (or sand-banks) of that noble stream were nothmg to the shoals and rocks of the Yang-tse.

nth. The gun-boats have been employed all day looking for a passage over the bar at the Bed Blu£b — a serious obstacle on our way up, and now apparently a hopeless one. We can scarcely regret these constant delays except for the sake of the ship s bot-tom, as they afibrd us admirable opportunities of becoming ac-quainted with the rural population, and the general features of the country.

After a walk of between two and three miles from the ship across the plain, we reached an extensive lake, the shores of which rose in swelling undulations from its glassy surfiioe. Wooded promontories projected half way across, forming deep bays where cottages were clustered and boats were moored, and cotton-fields terraced the hill sides.

Water-fowl of many varieties paddled and fluttered upon the margin of this vast sheet of water, for we could not see its whole

586 AN EDUCATED PEASANT.-^CHABGING THE BAR

extent from any one point ; and a small river, meandering thiongh the plain, watered the meadows, where flocks and herds were graz-ing. Sometimes the great river itself overflows this rich expanse. We were informed that this catastrophe had not occorred since 1849, when immense damage had been done, and miles of culti-vated land were overlaid with five or six feet of sand. We ob-served many barren spots, where pits had been dug down to the rich loam that had been thus buried

Over one of the cottages in a small village Lord Elgin observed a tablet, which, on being interpreted, was found to be a notice to the effect that one of the members of the £unily then inhabiting it had taken a high scholastic degree, and, though the son of a peasant, had achieved an important grade of mandarinic dignity. The brother was the present occupant of the humble abode, also a man of Uteraiy tastes and tendencies ; and, though only the pro-prietor of three acres of land, he had paid a hundred and eight taels for one degree, but had unfortunately been plucked at all his succeeding attempts, so that he was reduced to the humiliatiDg al-ternative of being obliged to wait until he should attain the age of sixty, when he would be entitled to an a<2 eundsm. In the back of the cottage was a curiously constructed press filled with cotton-seed : this was subjected to the blows of a huge beam, swung like acatapult; and the oil thus extracted, we were informed, was used for culinary purposes.

In whatever direction the different exploring parties wandered, they all met with the same uniform civility from the country peo-ple, into whose cottages we never hesitated to enter. This day was memorable to us as the anniversary of our first embarkation on board the Furious. A year's residence in that ship had suf* ficed to attach us to our floating home, though we already b^nn to suspect tiiat a tender and somewhat abrupt parting was in pros-peCu.

18^. The only incident of the day was the determination at which Captain Osbom arrived of charging the bar to-morrow.

19^. The Cruiser, drawing a few inches less than fourteen feet crossed without touching. We, drawing eighteen inches moxe knew what to expect, and went at it full speed. It was a pleasure to see the gallant way in which the old ship was handled in this cross countxy work, and how splendidly she behaved ; how beau-tifully she was kept together as she approached her fences^ bow

nrnucATE navigation. 587

obedient to the slightest touch of the reiiia The captain on one paddle-box, the master on the other, four men at the wheel, hands bj the jib-balliaids and spanker out-haul, men by bow and stem anchors, engineers alert in the engine-room ; then, with a swinging tide, ** full speed ahead I" we rush at the second cutter, anchored on one bank to starboard, in a manner calculated to lead the young gentleman in the boat to suppose that we are bent on his destruc^ tion ; then, shaving him by a miracle, steer clear of a buoy on the port side by an eighth of an inch, then run out the spanker and haul down the jib in the twinkling of an eye. It is of no use: the ship is perfectly in hand ; we keep the channel to a nicety ; but, unhappily, it surpasses even the capabilities of the Furious to float in fourteen feet of water when she is drawing fifteen* There is a scrape and a lurch ; the paddles revolve helplessly ; the order, ^ Stop her !" is reluctantly given, and the next process of hawsers, strcam-cablcs, and anchors, in all sorts of directions, is vigorously entered upon. By dint of dexterously bringing the ship broad-side on to the current^ she was converted into a species of dredg-ing-machine, and, during upward of twelve hours, we dragged steadily through the mud, shifting our anchors whenever our al-tered position rendered this operation necessary.

19th. At four o'clock this morning, when we were all profound-ly indifferent as to our po9i<lble fiite, the good ship had been forced by the current through the mud, and was anchored immediately beyond the bar. When day broke we found our position scarce-ly improved; we were moored with our nose up stream, in a diannel so narrow that it seemed impossible to turn,' and equally difficult to find our way, stem first, along the tortuous channel ahead. The manceuvre was most cleverly effected at last by mn-ning the ship's stem actually upon the shore, so as seriously to imi)cril the toes of some Chinamen standmg staring at the water's edge ; then the current and the jibs topaher took her bows round, and we once more found ourselves triumphantly sweeping down the turbid waters of the great river.

As we passed Loonp-ping we observed the tents of an impe-rialist force, a number of man-of-war junks, and some troojis ap-parmtly on the march. We augured ftom this that the rebels were in close proximity.

We were met just before dark by the Dove, bringing us the painful intelligence that the dcei>e8t water to be found on a bar

588 GOOD SPORT.— GLOOMY PROSPECT.

ahead was eleven feet This, if true, was absolute annihilatioii to all idea of reaching the sea in the Furious. However, we still hoped for the best, and anchored for the night a little below the city of Kew-kiang.

20ih and 21sL While the Lee and Dove are away channel-hunting, we, as usual, are engaged in a less important but more amusing sport We rambled for miles over the channing coun-try which intervenes between the river and the Poyang Lake. We explored in all directions the hills wooded with stunted oak and pine, cultivated with cotton, flax, and com, of different vari-eties, inhabited by a simple population, whose snug houses nestle in ike recesses of secluded valleys : these, not being subject to m-undation, are more substantially built than those in the plains. Channing lakes are embosomed among the hills, and that most extensive and celebrated of all, the Poyang, lays away to the Betr south, like an ocean with a horizon of ^ver. We bag numerous pheasants, magnificent birds with gorgeous plumage, in these woods, wild duck and snipe on the borders of the lakes ; and one of our party was fortunate enough to bring home a fine roenieer as the result of his day's sport

22d, We made a good bag to-day, but it was not enough to oon* sole us for the melancholy intelligence we received on our return to the ships of the non-existence of any channel, and the still more melancholy determination that had been arrived at, in oonae-quence, of deserting the Furious and Cruiser, and proceeding to Shanghai in the Dove and Lee.

23d This day was spent in condoling with our shipmates d'the last year on the gloomy prospect in store for them of a winter in the heart of China, for there seemed no hope of a rise in the river before spring. It was a day of sighs and lamentation, bustle and confusion — ^the rapid transfer of the accumulated effects of a year to the limited capacities of a gun-boat — ^the abandonment of modi in despair — ^the packing, condensing, and the breakage and ejacu-lations incidental thereto \ lastly, the final meeting of a spasmod-ically jovial character, protracted until a late hour of the evening, when patlietic songs, extemporized for the occasion, were sui^ and the memories of scenes of interest and adv^ature were recall-ed for the last time.

We all turned in with heavy hearts for the last nighty as we supposed, on board the Furious.

WE ABANDON THE FURIOUS.— CHRISTMAS DAT. 589

24(A. The sky was weeping in unison with our feelings this morning. It seemed ahnost shabby to desert Captain Osbom after his unwearied exertions and splendid achievements, and to abandon our old home, with all its kind and friendly occupants ; but the necessity was inevitable ; so we resigned ourselves to the inexorable decrees of fate, and made the Lee as comfortable as her accommodation would permit Then, when all was ready, Lord Elgin addressed Captain Osbom, the officers and ship^s company of the Furious, in a few stirring words, expressive of the regret he felt on being now compelled to leave them ; and we parted with many good wishes from our naval companions, with every one of whom, during our long residence on board, we had been upon terms of the utmost intimacy and good-fellowship. Adverting to this incident in his dispatch to the Secretary of State, Lord Elgin says : " On pergonal groundii, I left the Furious with great regret. For upward of a year I had had my home on board of her, dur-ing the whole of which period I never once heard that it was dif-ficult for the Furious to go any where or to do any thing that the interests of the public service rendered it in my judgment desira-ble to attempt'** Then came the final salute, and then we cheer-ed each other as long as we could respectively be heard, to the intense astonishment of a body of imperial troops, who were ap-parently occupied in " matchlock drill*' on the north bank of the river.

2dth. Our Christmas-day was of the most lugubrious and dole-ful description. Notwithstanding the praiseworthy efibrts of our most attentive host. Lieutenant (now Commander) Jones, it was impossible to be very lively. A storm of sleet and snow swept over the exposed deck of our tiny craft, and reduced us to the condition of amphibious animals whenever we emerged from the cabin. Unfortunately, the alternative of remaining there was scarcely to be preferred. It is most probable that no one of my readers, except those who composed the party on that occasion, knows what it is to form one of twelve first-class passengers in a gun-boat's cabin. Mr. Jones, to whom the problem first presented itself of how to stow away this invasion of barbarians, made an elaborate diagram of his guests as he intended they should appear in bed. Each man was allowed an inch less than his height, and the smallest of the party was put upon a book-shelf^ and formed

590 CLOSE STOWAGE.— APPROACH NGAK-Sma

an admirable substitute for the light reading which it usually contained. Two men were in cots swung over the only tabk; two more occupied the said only table ; and two more, stretdifid underneath, used the same article of furniture as a four-poster. When we were not all asleep, some of us were washing and dress-ing, and the remainder waiting in the rain on deck for their tun. When all the toilettes had been performed, the meals were begun; and when the meals were oyer, the fumes of cavendish pervaded the atmosphere until it was bedtime, and we all fitted into one another again like herrings in a barrel.

By the time eight days and nights had been thus profitably and sociably employed, we could readily appreciate the merits c^ a description of craffc which are a credit to the British navy. '^ As I l^nk," says Lord Elgin, in the dispatch above alluded to, " that these useful vessels (gun-boats) are not always sufficientiT appreciated, I would beg leave to call your lordships' attention to the fact that the Lee, with the aid of a junk, which she towed part of the way, and eventually discarded, conveyed safely the whole mission, servants included, firom Kew-kiaug to Shanghai, a dis-tance of some 460 miles, through an intricate navigation, and a country equivocally disposed toward us. It rained incessantly, and we were rather closely packed; but the obliging attentions of Lieutenant Jones enabled us to bear with these trifling incon-veniences."* Poor little Lee ! bravely did she do her part wher-ever there was work to be done ; nor did she in her last hour dis-grace the flag that still remained flying at her mast-head. After riding out a typhoon on the coast of Japan, running the gauntlet of the batteries at Nankin, and escaping the dangers of the Yang-tse-Kiang, the Lee left her bones at last on the mud-banks of tlie Peiho, where, riddled and shattered by shot, and with seventeen out of her small crew killed and wounded on her deck, she sank beneath the feet of her gallant commander.

We anchored for the night within sight of the batteries of Ngan-king.

26(h. I can best describe the proceedings of the earlier part of this day by quoting firom the Blue-Book a few lines from Lord Elgin's dispatch and Mr. Wade's report

" The course," says his excellency, " to be taken in passing Ngan-king was a matter which required consideration, as I have

« Bkie^Book, p. 446.

MR. WADE*8 VISIT TO THE REBELS. 591

already mentioned We were fired at when we reached it on oar way up ; and the nature of tlie channel compelled us, on ouf re* turn, to steer ao immediately under the city walls that our declcB could easily have been swept from them by gingalla When attacked in passing it previously, the gun-boats were accompanied by two large vessels. They were alone and unsupported when we arrived before it on our route downward. It was, moreover, important to insure a safe passage, not only for ourselves, but for such other vessels as might be sent up from time to time to com* municate with the Furious and Cruiser.

'^ In order to attain these objects, I thought it necessary to take a pretty high tone with the rebel authorities.

" Mr. Wade was accordingly sent on shore at an early hour on the 26th of December to deliver a message, the nature and satis-fisurtory result of which are described in his re{)ort To menace with capture by two small gun-boats a great city, walled and garrisoned, might have been bad taste elsewhere, but in China it was the proper thing lo do."

The following is Mr. Waders report of the result of his mission to the rebels at Ngan-king :

" On the evening of the 26th of December, as the gun-boata ap-proached Ngan-king, by desire of his excellency the Earl of Elgin, I proceeded in the Dove to communicate with the insurgent gar* rison who had fired upon our scjuadron on its way up. Night set in very suddenly, and running on in the darkness, we found ourselves but a few hundred yards from the walls. It seeme^l to us that we were seen. Lights were visible here and there along the walls, and junks appeared to be moving across the channel ahead of us. Having had no opportunity of testing the disposi* tion of the garrison since we exchanged shots with them on the 26th of November, I did not think it advisable to discharge my mission without being able to see my way, and acconlingly re-turned to the Lee. On the following morning, about S oclock, Lieutenant Bullock, of the ActaH>n, called for me. It was raining heavily, and red umbrellas multiplied along the shore as the boat approached the city. The bearers were dressed in the gaudy blue and red, which gave the rebel forces a picturesque appearance. A large re<l flag was waved, probably to direct our course, which, however, lay toward the point it indicated, namely, the upper or

592 MR. WADE'S REPORT.

southwestem angle of the walled position. In advance of this, a rude chevaux-de-frise of some yards' width protected the slope, and the inner batteries, which are of a yellow stone, apparently easy to work, were finished with some neatness. Three or four o^ the crowd detached themselves to receive us. One, almost a boy, carried a large red flag on tiie usual spear-staff; but^ with this exception, I saw no signs of arms in the hands of any one, and, except some wretched-looking guns in the embrasures, noth-ing of the character of hostile preparation. Being informed by one of these people that the chie& were all Cantonese, 1 desired to speak with one, and a young man came forward firom the mass assembled under a gate through which the path led fixDm the point off which the boat was lying. He was, I found, a native of Kwang-si, but speaking very good Cantonese. He afterward stated himself to be the third in authority. I told him I was di-rected to inquire why .the garrison had, without any provocation, fired on her majesty's ships bound up the river. The chief said it was a mistake due to the ignorance of some of the provincials in their garrison, not Canton or Kwang-si men. The latCer were unaware of the circumstance until the ships were some way past the city. They then recognized the English flag (* Ta Ying Ki*). The thing would never happen again. I reconmiended him to be careful. We had no wish to begin a quarrel with any who did not interfere with us, and I had purposely been sent because it was the British minister's desire not to take life without occasion ; but that our vessels would be going up and down, perhaps next month, perhaps the month after ; and, although we had no desire to side with either party in the civil war now w^ng, if any one attacked us we should resent it as we had done at Nankin, where the garrison had fired on us as we were passing, and we had, in consequence, destroyed their forts.

" * Oh yes,' said the chief, * we have heard of what happened at Nankin ;' and then repeated his excuses in even more apologetic phrase than before, for the mistake of his own people. He said they would send a present of oxen and other provisions to our great man. This I of course declined. He also invited me, as had one or two of the others, to land, and pay the principal chie( a Cantonese, a visit This I also declined, saying that I was sent to deliver the message which I had given, and which I now once more repeated, adding that they no doubt knew how simple a

ARRIVAL AT WOOHOO.— A REBEL COHMUKICATIOK. 59j{

matter it would be for us to sweep them away utterly, were we provoked to do it. To this he assented, with the same evidence of conviction he had given when I mentioned Nankin. As I poshed off he used the common Cantonese salutation, ' Go well V 'Good luck!' etc

*^ The crowd generally seemed to me in better case than the Woohoo rebels, more healthy-looking, and better dressed. One of them, who was much the reverse, however, had pushed himself forward, and addressed mo in Cantonese English. Ue volunteer-ed the information that ho came from Whampoa, and bore other marks, besides his acquaintance with our language, of subjection to ouf influences. He looked, what I have no doubt he was, an opium-smoking coolie. The majority seemed to me to hold back, and but a small number came to the boat's side."*

Passing the rebel batteries unmolested, wo made a long day^s run, and anchored for the night at Toongling.

27th, We just succeeded in reaching the Retribution at Woo-hoo before the light failed us. Captain Barker kindly placed his accommodation at the dis[x>sal of the mission ; but, as we were quite unconscious of feeling crowded, and enjoyed each other's animal heat in the cold weather, we remained in possession of the cabin of the Lee.

Captain Barker had, since his arrival at Woohoo, received an apologetic note relative to the affair which had occurred near Tai-ping on our way up. It was probably intended for Lord Elgin, and ran as follows: '^Some time since, when your excellency honored our humble place with a vi^sit, certain ignorant people in our central station (or barrier) fired upon you by mistake, on which our Heavenly King, Hung-siu-tsuen, decapitated all these ignorant scoundrels. Your ships being still in movement, Ilung-fiiu-tsuen could not catch them to make his apologies, and there-fore sent instructions to us, your younger brethren, to transmit his decree ; but as your honored vessels continued on their way, we fisdled to overtake them; and as there were demon vessels (impe-rialist) also barring the way, we confined ourselves for the time to making a report to the Ileavenly King, and waited hero for the jretum of your honored vessel, to pay our respects to you in per-son, and to receive from your own mouth your commands, on

• Bhe-Ikck, p. 44S.

Pp

594 ^'^ LAND AT NANKIN.

which we will make our report to the Heavenly King. We ac-cordingly send a person in advance to welcome your excellency."

2Sth. TMs day was a somewhat anxious one, as we were uncer tain whether the Retribution would clear the bar below Tai-ping; fortunately, she went over, with one inch to spare.

29ih. Beached Nankin about midday. The extremely apolo-getic tone of the communication above quoted seemed to Lord Elgin to open the door to &rther intercourse with the rebels at Nankin. He therefore sent Messrs. Wade, Lay, Wylie^ and my-self on shore, to pay a visit to the authorities and pick up infono-ation. ^

We landed on the south bank, at one of the forts which had been most pertinacious in its fire on our way up. All was silent now, and we felt some slight hesitation in stepping on shore, with such slender knowledge of the dispositions of the brave garrison toward us. Presently a few ragged soldiers emerged from a gate-way, as little prepossessed by our looks as we were by theirs. However, our object was to reach the city, and we now found that the nearest part of the suburb was at least a mile distant Thither we determined on proceeding, and traversed on foot a muddy plain under a pitiless snow-storm. A boy, whom we pressed into service as a guide, led us through some narrow lanes to an official residence of inferior description, where the officer in command of the troops of this division had his head-quarters. As our last communication with this gentleman had been in the shape of a cannon ball, and no formal interchange of amicable sentiments had passed since, we felt a little uncertain as to the view he would take of this unceremonious visit on the part of four of his late enemies. We soon discovered that his intention was to detain us by polite speeches, and send for instructiona As this did not suit our views, and we found four very nice po-nies tethered in his court-yard belonging to some of his staff^ we decided on appropriating them, and pursuing our way into the city. Finding all remonstrances useless as we speedily untied and mounted them, the general — ^for such we found to be his rank — ^furnished us with a guide, and soon after a courier passed us at fall speed, doubtless conveying to the authorities within the walb the intelligence of our approach.

We skirted the city walls for upward of six miles before we found the gate at which we were intended to enter; on our way

VISIT TO A REBEL CHIEF. -^REPOBT OF THE DiTEBVIEW. 695

we passed the spot on which stood fonnerly the Porcelain Tower, bat not a fragment is left to mark the site of this once celebrated monument

Entering the city through a massive gateway furnished with a portcullis, wo traversed for upward of a mile its deserted streets before we reached the residence of one of the rebel chiefs named Le. This dignitary met us at the door, and conducted us to his audience-chamber. Uere donning an elaborately embroidered head-dress, which was a combination of a bishop s mitre and a fool's-cap, he seated himself in his chair of state, and solemnly awaited our statement This high functionary was dressed in a somewhat similar costume to his colleague at Woohoo : a robe of yellow reached from his neck to his heels. The only ornamental portions of his dress were his shoes and his cap : the former were of a most brilliant pattern ; the latter was covered with dragons, and, Mr. Wylie alleged, was an imitation of the cap of office worn during the Ming dynasty.

As the conversation was carried on between Lc and Mr. Wade, I will give this gentleman's report of what passed in his own words: "We stated the object of our visit, which was to inform the garrison that we had received the explanation forwarded to Woohoo of the mistake they had made in firing upon her majcs-^'s ships, and that^ as we had ships now up the river, others would be probably going and returning, interference with which would oblige us to resent it as before. Lo was apologetic, but without servility. lie seemed more anxious to take us on the religious side, banning again and again that we were brothers of one fam-ily as Christians, but this in a constrained way, without impress* iveness or enthusiasm. lie said that Ilung-sia-tsuen was still Taiping-wang, and had not been, as we had understood, suoceeded by his son.

" We asked for the Eastern King, who, it was long since report-ed, had been slain in a fray. This was an embarrassing question; but, after a moment^s hesitation, he replied that Yang was in heaven ; and to a farther question, that he was succeeded in his honors and functions by his son. The number of his own force he put at several hundreds of thousands. He himself was Gov-ernor General of Kiang-nan, and, as we afterward heart], chief ex-ecutive authority in Nankin. lie called himself an officer or no-ble of the third degree, and wore on his high cap the badgi\ Yih*

596 OUR INTERVIEW WITH LE.

tien-fuh. The last character appears to mark his degree of nolnl* itj, though it properly means happiness or blessings. The two jBlrst mean to advantage heaven. We asked for any new books he might have, but the few he could produce were almost all the same with those brought down from Nankin in 1863 by Sir Greoige Bonham. In one, a calendar for the coming year, Yang still fig-ures as the Eastern King. Le promised us more books if we would stay the night ; we could then visit the court of the Heav-enly Kingdom. We had already requested permission to do this, but Le declared that, unless bidden thither, he could not present himself. One of his attendants, an intelligent-looking bonze-like personage, appeared rather amused at our eagerness about the books. He and the rest of the Chinese present, who were not very numerous, crowded in with as little restraint as at Woohoo^ and sat where they pleased.

"We asked to see their place of worship ; but, though one of them at first seemed to say that there. was one at no great dis-tance, Le interfered to observe that the brethren celebrated their worship every day in their own houses, and assembled on the Sab-bath at the Yu-tai (Jewish ?) temple in the king's court This led to some inquiry regarding their days in the week, but we fidled to ascertain whether they keep their Sabbath on the first or the seventh day, inasmuch as they certainly were at issue as to the place of the Wednesday we were then passing with them. So much of the day had been consumed by our long ride, that we were unable to stay more than a quarter of an hour with Le. Be-fore our departure we again referred to the question of our ships. He begged that, if we were coming by, we would let the garrison know, in which case there would be no chance of collision. In accordance with our instructions, we told him that steps should be taken to this end, and, declining refreshment, we departed."

We had determined to return to the river through the city in-stead of skirting its walls, and therefore, despite the usual remon-strances at our independent behavior, started off on foot in the di-rection we wished to go, for we could not depend upon a guide ; but, after effectually losing ourselves under our own guidance, we ultimately got back to the yamun, and Le, finding us obstinate. ordered a good-natured-looking man, of small military rank, to conduct us to the river-gate. By this time it had got dusk, and we had still a walk of five or six miles before us. The night was

MORALS OF THE REBELS. 597

thick and sleety, and in the course of that long, dreaiy trudge we became quite intimate with our guide. At first, and while his companions were within earshot, he declared that the resources of the rebels were abundant, and six>ke in Mandarin ; but dur* ing our solitary walk through the wooded park -like country which is inclosed within the walls of the city of Nankin, he re* lapsed into the Canton dialect, and confided to us a very difTerent state of matters. The rebels, ho said, were reduced to great ex-tremities for supplies; and ho was confinned in this a^si^rtion l^ the proclamations of Le, which we saw on the walls, calling on the people to subscribe.

Our guide also asked Mr. Wade if he could not take him on board one of the English ships to escajK^. ThU, he was told, was impossible, on which he expressed his desire to trade in opium or small-arms. lie himself smoked, and so, he said, did one third of the people of Nankin ; not openly, however, for indulgence in the drug is forbidden by law, nor is it publicly sold. He said that, although there were not many men in Nankin, there were four large rebel forces in existence — one in the Kwang provinc<H?, one in Fuh-kien, one in Cheh-kianp, and one in Ngan-hwui : the last was very numerous. He sj)oko of the imperialists not as the reb-els usually afTect to do, as demons or imps, but ns the trxwps of jrovemment They always fled, he said, when the reikis attacked them ; but he admitted that the rebels, when attacked, also fled, so that the war was likely to last long enoujrh. He als4> t4)M us that polygamy was the order of the day. The Heavenly King had 3<K) wives, and ho himself admitted to having hatl a very pretty bride allotted to him n»cently. The captured women aro distributed among the soldiers ; and we observed some pleasing female faces as we passeil along the streets.

The captured men are pressed into the service, and tied to-gether, and put into the front rank when they go into action.

The only form of prayer that our guide knew was a short gnucc said before meals, which he repeated. Sometimes they knelt, and the teacher prayed, but they never nnderstoo*! what he said. Three officers and twenty men had, he said, been killed by the fire of our ships on the way up the river.

The eitv of Nankin was oei*upii*d exclusivelv bv reln^l forces. We di<l not observe a single shop, nor was there any i^rson en-gaged in trade. Many of the streets were entirely deserted, and

598 STRENGTH OP THE GABRISON.

the houses unoccupied. A vast portion of the area within the walls has never been built upon, while jamuns and public build-ings still exist to attest its former magnificence. The most re-markable of these was the Choong-koo-low, or Central Dram Tow-eY, under which we passed.

The present strength of the rebel garrison is estimated at from 10,000 to 15,000 men ; that of the besieging force at double that number. The only hope of the latter seems to be to starve out tbe insurgents, for which end they have stopped up all thorough-&rc by the three sides landward, and merely left open the side to-ward the river, which the rebels have secured by forts on both sides of the Yang-tse, thus retaining to themselves liberty of egress at pleasure. Six out of the thirteen gates which formerly gave access to the city are open, the rest are bricked up.

The centre of authority is evidently within the city, but thoe are circumstances which throw a doubt over the existence of Hung-siu-tsuen, although his followers all speak of him as still living, and edicts are issued under his name, with the title '' Te^n-wang" (Celestial prince). The evidence is more complete as to the death of the four secondary princes — North, South, East, and West. Two of these were killed in battie, and the others, who held tiieir courts at Nankin, became the victims of internal feuds. Successors are said to have been appointed to the East, West, and South princes — all minors. Besides the prime minister Tsin, who, it is whispered, personates tiie prince, the resident ex:ecutive chiefe seem to be four men, named Chin, Le, Mung, and Sin, and these have their offices within the city. The assistant prince, Shih Ta-kae, was reported to be at the head of the army in Fuh-kien, on the east of Kiang-si.

There are twenty-four chief, and the same number of secondary ministers of state, who are distributed in various parts of the in-surgent territory. Most of the offices of trust are held by mem-bers of the original confederation, the majority being Kwang-tong or Kwang-si men.

It will be seen that our intercourse with the rebels, though more extensive than that of any foreigners hitherto, has not been of a character to enable us to acquire any very minute details with reference to their religious tenets. Mr. Wylie, who had for some years watched with interest the progress of the rebellion, was of opinion that the religious eccentricities which began to appear

f

THE REBEL THEOLOGY. 509

80on after ita oommcDcement ore now assaming such prominenoe as to threaten the extinction of the vital truths of Christianity. The supremacy of their chief^ Ilung-sitt-tsuen, they seem disposed to insist on, exalting him to divine honors as the third in rank, below whom all believers in Jesus are junior brethren. Whether any large number of them believe in the divine mission of Uung is, Mr. Wylie thinks, questionable ; and it is to be feared that skepticism is equally prevalent regarding the better parts of their professed creed. The destruction of temples and idols is still in* sisted on, as we saw by the fragments of images which strewed the streets ; and proclamations were posted up, urging the extir-pation of idolatry in every form. This does not extend to the an-cestral temples, however, these being universally respected, which implies that the worship there is in harmony with their profes* sion.

The doctrines of their religion, in so far as they are expounded in their public documents, appear to consist of an extraonlinaiy jumble of Jewish polity. Christian theology, and Chinese philoa* ophy. The result, as tested by our observation, was very much what might have been expected from so incongruous a compound. We found the rebels making war like Jews, living like the worst description of professing Christians, and believing like — China* men I

300 THE YANG>XSE-EIANG COMMERCIALLY CONSTDKRED.

CHAPTER 41.

CHAPTER XLI.

The Yang-tse-Kiang commercially considered. — Sensation on onr Arrival. — Sadden Appearance of the Furious. — ^The secret Edict. — ^Correspondence with the Commis-sioners.— The Affairs of Canton. — ^Result of the Correspondence. — ^Decree publish-ed in the *'Fekin Gazette.'* — Departure from' Shanghai. — Military Promenades near Canton. — Expedition to Faynne. — ^A Voyage to Hainan. — ^Adiea to China. — Arriyal at Malta.

As Lord Elgin was anxious to reach Shanghai in time for the mail, we pushed on in the Lee, leavi^g the Dove to pilot the Ret-ribution through the more intricate navigation. We performed the voyage from Kew-kiang to the mouth of the Shanghai Bivet in a week. When we remember that this was at the dryest aeaaon of the year, and our gun-boat drew eight feet of water, we are forced to admit the capabilities of the great river of China for purposes of navigation. When, however, steamers built expressly for the pur-pose begin to ply on this great channel of internal communicadon, they will find that their success depends, not upon the depth of water, but upon the nature of the competition with which they will have to contend. K river-tugs can tow flats at a cheaper rate than the Chinese can work barges upon the canals and inner wa-ters of the country, then the Yang-tse-Kiang will become the high-way for British commerce. In any other country in the world, machinery, whether applied to steam-ships or cotton-mills, will beat manual labor. In China, where a man's work is not worth a farthing a day, his labor takes a higher place in competition with steam-power. We have &iled to substitute to any extent in Chi-na cotton manufactured by machinery for that manufactured by the hand ; let us hope that, at all events, we may succeed in re-placing junks by steamers.

Where valuable cargoes, such as opium, are concerned, there is no doubt that steamers will be preferred to the water-conveyances of the country ; but in teas and heavier cargoes the question is more problematical.

If we fail, we shall probably console ourselves by attributing it to the influence of the government in some incomprehensible way. Doubtless the Chinese government has much to answer for, but it

SENSATION ON OUR ARRIVAL. 601

can not, and does not, affect the fundamental principles of polit-ical economy. Lord Elgin, in referring to our commercial pros-pects in the markets of the interior, thus alludes to this popular delusion : '* My general impression is, that British manufacturers will have to exert themselves to the utmost if they intend to sup* plant, to any considerable extent in the native market, the fabrics produced in their leisure hours, and at intervals of rest from agri-cultural labor, by this industrious, frugal, and sober population. It is a pleasing but pernicious fallacy to imagine that the influ-ence of an intriguing mandarin is to be prestmicd whenever a buyer shows a preference for native over foreign calico."* This will be equally true if he shows a preference for native over for-eign river-crofl.

At the same time, this problem — if problem it be — can not bo solved until the rebels are dispossessed of their position for a hundred and fifty miles ufKin the banks of the Yang-tse-Kiang. We can not expect the Chinese government to permit us to trade with the insurgents. Nor, if the river is once opened to the com-mercial enterprise of foreigners, is it ea.<*y to devise a system by which all intercourse shall be confined to those who are well dis-posed toward the constituted authorities of the country.

The result, then, of our six weeks' exploration of the great riv-er of China had been most satisfactory as regards its navigable ca-pabilities, and tolerably so in a commercial point of view, if all political difficulties were removed ; but, unfortunately, thes<» latter were of a nature calculated, in a great measure, to neutralize all other advantages. Let us hope that an opportunity may now bo afforded, which did not present itself during the period of our dip-lomatic experience in China, of removing those obstacles, and open-ing this magnificent highway to the merchants of the world.

We steamed up to Shanghai, and cast anchor among the ship ping that crowded the river, under the pleasing consciousness that we were creating a sensation. A squadron of five ships had lefl the port six weeks ago ; all that retume<l of it was a scMitary gun-boat, with Lord Elgin's flag flving at the main. The public of Shanghai were completely at fault It had been reported that Lord Elgin, and the rest of the mission, had been captured and sent in capros to Pekin, and that most of the ships had been sunk, and that the Furious alone survivetl to tell the tale. That was

• Jilme^n*wyl-. ^ 44S.

602 SUDDEN APPEABANCE OF THE FOBIOUa

only to be expected ; but now it appeared that Lord Elgin bad returned without the Furious. This was a much more startlix^ and unnatural phenomenon. We were received most cordiallj by a knot of inquirers, who greeted us as we landed on the bund, and all derived thorough satis£su2tion from the intelligence of two British ships being fixed for the winter in the heart of China. Could any method have been devised by which the country would be more inevitably opened up? What prodigies of exploration might not two such eirterprising leadeis as Captain Osboni and Bythesea, with their officers, perform during a residence of four or five months in the far interior? Poor fellows, they would need mental and bodily comforts of all kinds. The Dove, about to re-turn with supplies, was consequently loaded with light literatuie and Bass's beer, woolen stockings. No. 4 shot^ cavendish tobaeoo^ wading-boots, and every luxury or necessary that the kind-heart-ed community could contribute, to console them for an existence which, we all devoutly hoped, for the good of commerce generally^ might continue over many months.

Our astonishment may be imagined when, before we had been in Shanghai a week, we were startled about midnight by the un-expected appearance of Captain Osbom himself. It seemed that he had taken advantage of a sudden rise of the river, after heavy rains, to make a fljing leap over the bar, and had come down at a slashing pace with our good old ship, whose well-known pro-portions were visible next morning just off the consulate windowa

We found the imperial commissioners in a most amiable mood on the occasion of a visit of congratulation which they hastened to pay Lord Elgin on his safe return from the perils of the recent river navigation.

About this time intelligence reached us from Canton, and gave rise to a correspondence too important not to be noticed. A body of British troops, exercising in the neighborhood of Canton, were unexpectedly attacked by a strong force of braves, and though, fortunately, no serious loss was inflicted, they were compelled to retreat with some haste to the city. This wanton act of hostility, at a time when the imperial government was professing, through its commissioners at Shanghai, sentiments of the most affectionate and conciliatory nature, called for prompt punishment; and an expedition was consequently organized against the small town of Shek-tsing, about seven miles distant firom Canton, known as the

TUB SECRET EDICT. -COBBESPONDENCE. 608

head-quarters of a large body of the local militia. This operation was executed with great spirit and success. With a loss of four men wounded, we succeeded in destroying Shek-tsing, driving out the braves, who dispersed in great confusion, and capturing some of the private papers of the commissioners appointed by the gov-ernment to organize militia against barbarians, and popularly known as the Fayune commissioners.

At the same time, a document of a remarkable character, which had fidlen into the bands of Mr. Parkcs, was forwarded by that gentleman to Lord Elgin. It purported to bo an edict secretly issued by the government, inciting the braves to hostile action, and indicating a policy so infamous and treacherous that Lord Elgin forwarded it to the commissioners, with the remark that his excellency '* refrains from any comment upon this paper, in the sincere hope that the commissioners will be enabled to assure him that its authors, in imputing to the emperor the insidiously hos-tile policy which it declares, have unwarrantably abused his miy-esty's name.^' The commissioners, in reply, unhesitatingly affirm this to have been the case. '*As regards the document,*' they say, ^' to which your letter refers, and of which you have sent us a copy, we have the honor to assure you most positively that, after examining it together, wo entertain no doubt that it is a forgery.

'* The* commissioner Twan has been in the council (by which they are prepared and transmitted) so many years, that he is cer* tainly qualified to pronounce upon that point, and an inspection of the document has thoroughly satisfied him that it is a spurious composition.^'

Notwithstanding this assurance. Lord Elgin was so ill pleased with the state of matters in the south that he determined to adopt a tone in his correspondence which should oblige the commis* sioners to aid him in remedying the evil ; he therefore recurred to, and insisted upon, his original demand, that they should pro-cure from the emperor the dismissal of Hwan^, the Governor General of Kwang-tung, and the dissolution of the committee of gentry, whose functions were to organize braves ostensibly for the protection of the country against rebels, but really to disturb us in our occupation of Canton.

It will be remembered that when the commissioners arrived at Shanghai at the commencement of October, Lord Elgin called

604 THE AFFAIRS OF CAI9T0N.

their attention to the unsatisfactory position of affidis at Canton, and informed them that he declined to enter into negotiations with them until he should receive &om them the assurance that Hwang, the Governor General of Kwang-tung, as well as the chiefi of the Fayune committee, should be removed from office.

Their excellencies undertook to memorialize the emperor for the removal from office of the persons above named, and to fur-nish Lord Elgin with a copy of the decree which the emperor might issue, giving effect to the prayer of their memorial.

On the faith of these assurances the embassador entered into negotiations with the commissioners on various matters, which it was important to settle definitively, with a view to the establish-ment of peace, and a good understanding between Great Britain and China.

On our return to Shanghai after an interval of three months, when Lord Elgin applied to the commissioners for the copy of the imperial decree which he had been promised, he was furnished with an imperial decree which, so far from removing Hwang and dismissing the Fayune chie& from office, informs the commission-ers that the emperor declines to be guided in this matter by their advice. At the same time, intelligence is received from Canton to the effect that our troops have been fired upon. Under these circumstances, Lord Elgin informed the commissioners that he had come to the following resolutions :

First '' To hold no farther communication with the imperial commissioners on the subject of Canton, as they clearly have no sufficient authority from the emperor to deal with this matter."

Second. ^' To urge the military and naval commanders of the British forces at Canton to move their troops freely about the province, and to punish severely any braves or others who may have the temerity to molest them."

Lord Elgin concludes by saying that " when the undersigned (or his successor) proceeds to Pekin for the exchange of the rati-fications of the Trea^^v of Tientsin, he will ascertain whether the occurrences at Cantr of which he complains, have or have not the sanction of the emperor, and will act accordingly."

This missive had the desired effect We had reason to believe that a copy, of it wais forwarded to Pekin at the rate of 600 le a day ; and it provoked from the commissioners a reply, in whidi a positive assurance was given that Hwang and the committee should

DECREE PUBLISHED IN THE " PEKIN GAZETTE." 605

be removed, and the conduct of the braves was denounced in tho strongest possible terms. Before leaving China, Lord Elgin bad the satisfaction of receiving from the commissioners a communi-cation inclosing a copy of an imperial decree, transferring to Ho, the enlightened Governor General of the Two Kiangs, the seal of the im|)erial commissioner hitherto held by Hwang. As this de-cree was promulgated avowedly in consequence of Lord Elgin's representation above quoted, there can be little doubt that the al-lusion to his proceeding to Pekin operated strongly upon the im* perial mind.

The last official communication which Lord Elgin received from China, when on his way to England, was a notification that this same decree, removing Hwang and denouncing the secret edict as a forgery, had been published as a spontaneous act on the part of the Chinese government in the Pdcin Gazette. It runs as follows :

IMPERIAL EDICT.

" We have this day received a memorial from Kweiliang and his colleagues to the effect that they have received, with the let-ters from the British, a false imperial edict of the kind dispatched directly from the imperial court, and which, they were informed, had b(H3n obtained by an Englishman in Kwang-tung."

*' On perusing this, Our surprise was extreme. From all time China has held fast by principles of the highest justice in her be-nevolent measure for tranquillizing the various nations: she has never laid plans for secrctlj injuring them.*'

'^Subsequently to the failure of Yeh-mingshin, We appointed Hwang-tsung-han to be Governor General of the Two Kwang, and gave him the seal of imperial commissioner of OCR territories. As to Vice- President Lo-tun-yen and his colleagues, they, stimu* lated by patriotic ardor, enrolled braves for the defense of their country — a perfectly rightful occupation for local gentry.''

'^ Recently, however, the amicable negotiatioitt». of Kweiliang and his colleagues at Tientsin having been tishod, Hwang-tsung-han had to buity himself with internal mititary affairs only, while Lo-tun-yen and his colleagues had, in obedience to OrR com* mands, to deal solely with native bandits. It was not in contem-plation that they should engage in hostilities with the British and French. Although these nations have not yet redelivered the cap-

606 DECREE PUBLISHED IN THE " PEKIN GAZETTE."

ital of Kwang-tung, jet if they maintain proper order among ihar troops, causing no annoyance to the inhabitants, they may live to> gether in peace, free from all troubles."

^' A court dispatch has, however, been fitbricated, giving canae to difficulties between Lo-tun-yen with his coUeagues on the one side, and these two nations on the other, and producing doubt and suspicion in the mind of the British. We now therefore com* mand Hwang-tsung-han to take strict measures for the sdzore of the lawless fabricators, and to punish them with the utmost ngor of the law. Thus may all nations know that China transacts her affairs in an open, rightful, and liberal spirit, and that^ when once a settlement is arrived at, suspicions and doubts may be given up, and so no room be left for the instigation of false mischief-makeis.

" As Shanghai, where the arrangements connected with the gen* eral trade are at present being made, lies at a considerable dis-tance from Kwang-tung, We hereby appoint the Governor Qea-end of the Two Keang, Ho-kwei-tsing, to be imperial commission-er of foreign affairs, and We hereby command Kwang-tsung-han to send a special officer to deliver to him the seal of imperial com-missioner now in use. Bespect this."

When it is remembered that the Pehin OazeUe is published pure-ly for the information of the Chipese population, and is not sup* posed to be read or seen by foreigners, we could not but regard the official promulgation of such conciliatory sentiments as a hope-ful symptom of the future.

Meantime, Lord Elgin was of opinion that his presence at Gan-ton would tend to &cilitate the settlement of matters in thai troubled locality: he had already urged upon General Straubexb zee the expediency of vigorously following up his successful opera-tions on Shek-tsing. " I think it very important," says his ex-cellency, " that advantage should be taken of this cool season to accustom the rural inhabitants of the vicinity of Canton to the presence of our troops, and to punish severely braves or others who may venture to attack or resist them— every seouri^, of course, being given that the peaceM inhabitants shall not in any way be molested."

Lord Elgin now announced to the commissioners his determina-tion to proceed to Canton, stating as he did so that it was his in-tention to return to Shanghai, to discuss with them various ques-

DEPABTCBE FBOU 8HANQHAL-OBDEB SECURED. 607

t

tioDfli the settlement of which was still pending. lie was ulti-mately prevented from carrying this arrangement into effect by learning on his arrival at Canton that Mr. Bruce, who had been appointed to relieve him, was expected immediately. The mer-cantile conmiunity, believing that the special mission was about to bid a final adieu to Shanghai, presented his excellency with an address, congratulating him upon the largo measure of success with which his diplomatic efforts, both in China and Japan^ had been crowned.

On the 25th of January Lord Elgin gave a farewell ball at the Consulate, immediately after which we once more turned into our fiuniliar cots on board the Furious, and slept till an advanced hour of the foUowin^ day, when Shanghai was twenty miles astern, and the turbid waters of the Yang-tse-Kiang were for the last time sweeping us rapidly out to sea.

Early in February, 1859, the Furious took up her berth in the Canton River, at the same anchorage at which I had left her pre-cisely a year before. IIow great a change had been wrought in Canton during the interval 1 Then the troops were camped on the walls, or roughly barracked in yamuns; the streets were crowded with people leaving the city under the influence of fear; many of the shops were shut ; and numbers of houses were unin-habited and in ruins.

Now a well-organized system of government had produced order out of chaos. A body of efficient police patrolled the streets, which were cleaner than those of any other town in Chi-na. The gambling-booths were all closed. Vacant spaces had been cleared of rubbish and turned into parade-grounds. Officers and men occupied comfortable quarters, and the streets might be traversed in any direction with perfect security. Trading was flourishing ; the merchants, for the most part, occupying tempo-rary abodes on Ilon&n Island (on the opposite side of th« river) until the site for the new British (Sactory should be definitively decided upon.

The numerical strength of the police force which kept order in Canton during a year*s occupation only amounted to one hundred and fifty men. Captain Pim, who commanded this IxKly of men, informe<l me that, out of the number, he had lost four men killed and twelve wounded in the execution of their dutv. Those out-rages had been committed during the summer, when braves were

608 MILITABY FBOM£NADES NEAB CANTON.

in the habit of secretly entering the city, and assassinating solitaij Europeans. The townspeople, however, so fiur from sympathiang in the proceedings of these ruMans, used frequently to point Uiem out to our men.

The success of the Shek-tsing expedition, and the wholesome moral effect which had been already produced upon the rural population of the district adjoining Canton, suggested the idea of military promenades on a more extensive scale. One was accord-ingly imdertaken to Fat-shan, and another to Taileck, the princi-pal village of the confederation known as the "Ninety-six Vil-lages," both passing off peaceably, and producing, so &r as we were enabled to judge, the most salutary effect upon the popula-tion. The notorious town of Fayune, however, situated between thirty and forty miles to the north of Canton, had still to be visit-ed, and thither General Straubenzee proposed to march with a force of a thousand men. I was permitted to accompany the troops upon this expedition, which proved, in fact, a most inter-esting and agreeable five days' excursion, and partook rather of the character of a picnic than a military reconnoissance. As^ how-ever, it was fully described at the time, and was invested with no immediate interest beyond that which must necessarily attach to a march through a little-known country, I shall not enter upon any description of it. The political results of this, as of the other mili-tary promenades of the same nature which were undertaken about this period, were in the highest degree satisfectory. The country people, whose feeling toward foreigners are naturally amiable, be-came accustomed to our presence, and less than ever disposed to subscribe for the support of the disreputable rabble that had col-lected in the neighborhood of Canton from other parts of the country, and called themselves " Braves."

The "Braves" themselves found their prestige destroyed by the Shek-tsing affair, and now, for the j&rgt time, became awtoe that barbarians could undertake military movements unsupported by " devil ships," and that no retreat in the vicinity of Canton was secure from the visits of a foreign force. The dissolution of the Committee of Fayune by imperial edict, and the encampment for twenty-four hours of a thousand men under the walls of that town, effectually extinguished the warlike spirit of the militia, and it will be our own fault if we ever allow it to break forth agaio.

As, by the mail due in China at the end of February, we ex-

INHOSPITABLE SHORES OF HAINAN. 000

pected to receive definite intelligence of the movements of Mr. Brace, as well as the views of the home government upon a ques-tion of policy which might render it necessary for Lord Elgin to return to Shanghai, he determined to occupy the interval by a voyage of discovery and exploration to the new port opened by the Treaty of Tientsin in the island of Hainan.

Unfortunately, as we approached that little-known and unsur-veyed coast, it came on to blow a gale of wind. On our lee bow was a low, sandy, treacherous-looking shore, with a high conical mountain inland ; on our quarter, the precipitous Taya Islands loomed dangerously through the haze ; round us the waves foam-ed and chopped in an unpleasant manner, suggestive of strong currents and hidden rceis. Still the cry of the leadsman, anxious-ly waited for as we crept cautiously along, was '* No bottom :" suddenly there came a sharp short '* Seven iathoma" Our leads* men were too well trained to waste the time in musical cadences on these occasions. In a second the helm was hard down, and the shoaling of the water, as the ship turned almost in her own length, proved how near had bee* the danger. The sea was run-ning too high to make channel-hunting among the coral ree&, without a gun-boat, either an agreeable or safe amusement So we turned our backs in disgust upon the inhos{)itAblo shores of Hainan, and ran for shelter and comfort into a pretty little port on the main land, where a snug pirate village nestled among woods, in a nook so secluded that wo only stumbled on it by accident, and found a cutthroat population living in considerable comfort upon no apparent resources beyond what a certain number of well-armed junks could provide them with. Afler touching at the island of St John^s, and fruitlessly exploring one of its bays in search of the tomb of Francois Xavier, we once more anchored in Hong Kong harbor, as we devoutly trusted, " positively for the last time.^*

The arrival of the nuul with scarcely any letters for the mission decided the question. It was evident that we were supposed in England to be on our way home, for both private and official correspondence had all but stopped. As Mr. Brace had been charged to exchange the ratifications, and the admiral had been instractcd to have a ship waiting for him at Singapore at the end of February, there was nothing to be gained by lingering longer amid the scenes of our protracted diplomatic laboni»

Qq

610 ADIEU TO CHIKA.— ARRIVAL AT MALTA.

On the 4th of March we watched with inexpressible deUght the ragged coast of China sink behind the horizon, and a week afterward landed at Singapore. It was not, however, until we reached Ceylon that we met Mr. Brace, whose departoie finom En-gland had been delayed until a somewhat later period than had been anticipated.

The Fuiioos,. more faithful to «ls than we had been to her in the Yang-tse-Eoang, conveyed us in safety to Suez, where we had the satisfaction of being the first passengers w^o had eyer break-fasted in the Bed Sea, and dined the same afternoon in the Medi-terranean. A very £aint idea of our anxiety to get home may be gathered &om this circumstance.

We entered the harbor of Y aletta upon the anniversary of the day on which, two years before, we had steamed out of it on our way to the East. Since then India and China had sacoeasiyelj occupied the public mind ; and now it was absorbed in watching the destinies of Italy. Unhappily, events have again oocorred in the Celestial Empire as unforeseen as they have been unfortonate. Whether our labors during two years in that country have been wasted, and the Treaty of Tientsin becomes at last a reality or a fiction, must depend upon the skill of our diplomacy no less than on the force of our arms.